Valvoline oil filter catalouge

Couple questions from the sub, if I may? I understand mechanical matter in an abstract, mental way, but I'm not much of a mechanic , overall. So, please keep that in mind with your answers.

1. My bike (a 4 or 5 year old 49cc Icebear, approx 2k mi., not exactly sure what specific model, maybe a Rocket) is experiencing power-loss. I'll give it full throttle, and it just sort of...thinks about it for a moment before getting underway with any oomph It has an enhanced carb (bigger spray-nozzles, but I don't know the details) and I just put a new fuel filter on it. It was going really well for a while, and it seems to get its power back after he sits for a bit, but once he gets warmed up and going, the power just trails off. Any ideas where to start from here, keeping in mind what i said above? He does need an oil change, and I intend on doing that very soon.
2. Also keeping in mine my starting caveat, how can I boost him a little? I'm not looking for 60mph speeds, but I'd like to be able to keep up with traffic in a 40mph uphill zone. I've heard things like getting a better battery, removing the speed restrictor (?) and a few other things. Also, how can I upgrade him a bit to make him easier to control and ride at the slightly higher speeds?

Feel free to DM me with the advice and suggestions. Thank you all ahead of time for any help you can offer. I do have a mechanic who has worked on my bike before, but I'd rather not pay $75/hour shop labor if it's something I can easily do on my own.

I am a student looking for a good fuel efficient car that won’t cause trouble. Normal civic vs hybrid civic on my area these both are priced somewhat same i need the car that will go 60 miles every day and last for 4-6 years of normal i can buy a manual and i know it will last i wouldn’t say we have too much traffic depends on time i guess and hybrids start from 2015 not sure about the hybrid battery it costs a lot to replace id rather replace burned clutch from other cars there is ‘07-‘10 hybrid camry. Why im considering civic is because we have some things like brake pads and oil filters or other stuff from our old civic that we didn’t use.

I recently bought a ‘95 Honda Accord LX and I’d like to bring it back to 100 HP before I put too many miles on it. It has never been in an accident,and it has the original motor and transmission with only 110,000 miles. It drives great in the city and on the highway, but it sometimes struggles to start in the mornings, and it’s breaks are just a little squeaky. I’m sure that changing the oil, oil filter, air filter, and the spark plugs would all be a good idea, but other than that I’m not sure what else I could do to make sure that the car is 100% in good working order. After that, I’d like to make it faster, but I have not a clue how to start doing that. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated.

Need to do an oil change on my ‘14 Passat. Had it done last at a Take 5 place maybe 3000 miles ago and I’m pretty sure they just put some general “European spec” oil in it. Meaning it isn’t the VW 507.00 spec stuff that I need. I found the right stuff on FCP Euro after reading some comments here that they are a reputable company. I have also seen people say that you get a lifetime warranty on oil from them, and apparently you send your old oil and filter back and they will credit your account. Is that legit? How do you send your oil back? Just wondering how that works, or if there is something I’m missing. Seems too good to be true.

Long story short
My engine blew in November 2023 from an aftermarket oil filter and gasket not being being installed properly from the dealership I purchased the car back in July 2023. Toyota denied covering it because it had an aftermarket oil filter and gasket installed and the dealership I purchased the car from told me that my warranty expired already so there nothing they could do.
I told Toyota I had no knowledge of the aftermarket oil filter and gasket and the dealership also had no idea about the aftermarket oil filter and gasket.
My oil pan had to be replace in July 2023 due to an irreparable oil leak and I had to pay out of pocket for it. I assumed the mechanic who performed the oil change last had no fucking idea what he or she was doing.
Before anyone comment, I could not see the oil coming out of my car because it was night time. The built in alert of "low oil pressure" came on as soon as the car died while I pulled to the side of the road.
My lawyer said he couldn't do anything because there's no concrete evidence to support my claim, plus it's out of his jurisdiction since I ordered the car out of state.
Anyways I need a new B58 engine. Anyone know where I can salvage one from a reputable company? Only options I'm seeing is used ones from ebay.
My car was purchased at 2.4k miles and my engine died at 6k miles. I have been fighting my case with no luck for the past 7 months.
Toyota wants 16k for a new engine + 7k for installation fee

Had my 2020 in for spring maintenance: oil change and filter, state inspection, alignment check, tire balancing. All good. I also asked them to check, per GM recommendation, that the transmission control module is running the latest software and update it if necessary They did, saw that the TCM was not running the latest version , so they updated the software.
1) why doesn’t this software update automatically over the air?
2) dealer charged me 1 hour labor for the update. Shouldn’t that be on GM’s nickel?

At first I thought it was the pan or oil filter leaking then after getting under the car with a light I found a leak at the back/right side of the engine. A friend is pretty sure it's the rear valve cover gasket.
I can't tell myself but by the video below does it look like the valve gasket and not the head gasket?
You can see here in this video https://youtu.be/4JwuPXcSk2U
Thank you!

I need help please I have a 2003 Forf Focus SW 1.4 gasoline, manual gears
Last week it was at the mechanic to change the clutch and distribution kit (water pump, transmission belt,...), and also changed oil and all filters.I picked it up on Wednesday morning.
30 minutes ago, right after parking it (luckily), the gear stick stopped moving. It moves back and forwards, but not side to side. I looked under the hood, under and around the car, and see no pieces.lose or on the floor. Also, when the car is working and I lift the clutch pedal I start hearing some grinding, like the gear is not in the proper place. Maybe it's suck somehow? What could this be?
I don't know if this problem is in anyway related to the work done last week, it's just to let you know it happened. Thank you

I've been putting off the last serious problem, oil burning, since although it's annoying having to add 1Q every 500-1500 miles, I've never noticed loss of power or any other changes in the way my car behaves since I started driving it regularly 11 years ago. By the way, my last oil change was on 2024-11-09 at 141899. There's currently 143435 on the odometer and I've added 2.5Q of oil in all that time. The oil on the dipstick and in the crankcase are exactly the same color as the 5W-30 Valvoline high mileage synthetic I've been adding. 143435-141899 = 1536 or 1Q per 614 miles. Until that change, I was religious about sticking to the 3 month change schedule and I never even came close to exceeding 3k miles between changes.
What happens is, I'm 99% sure the following events cause oil to burn or otherwise get sucked into a place it doesn't belong:

• each the idle RPM ticks downward because the ECT reached the next breakpoint. E.g. when I cold start, it goes to 2K rpm then drops to ~1300. It then slowly drops by what appears to be solid multiples of 100 until it's fully warmed up
• when I put it in reverse, there's a brief but noticable cloud, then nothing
• when accelerating after idling for a while

The last point is the most dramatic. Last night I had the car running in the AutoZone lot for 15 minutes with no smoke or exhaust odors and when I pulled out I was followed by enormous blue clouds for probably half a mile.
Sometimes I notice a few drops of oil next to the right front tire (passenger side) immediately after parking, but it clearly doesn't keep dripping. I confirmed the drain plug replacement works by letting it sit on white concrete for 4 days and it was totally dry.
The reason I'm thinking it's the cover gasket is because I've been reading threads and watching videos and I'm seeing a pattern here. The mildness and infrequency of burning; the deposition of black sludge on the intake manifold and all around the cover seam. I even made a video, although it's kinda hard to see anything thanks to the extreme contrast ratio of filming outside at noon in direct sunlight.
https://youtu.be/KOSU4jrmpyk
Of course, I've already tried pulling the spark plug things (I don't know what they're called), but none of them were budging with the amount of force I was willing to use. Should I wait until the car is cool before checking for oil?
If you actually watch that 45 second video of mine, I'd also appreciate anything else you notice, except for the old compressor wire, which I simply left in the right forward lighting loom since it'd probably take 10 hours to get it out without chopping it up, which I would end up doing and probably cut one of the other wires...

Hello. I have something of a Gordian knot for this sub.
My previous car is an 01 Mercury Sable that runs fine (except for a possible oil leak next to the timing.) Two winters in a row, the car refused to actually start running in the frigid Midwest cold. Last time it happened, the car sat for close to three weeks without starting after I drove to the grocery store one day and the dashboard had no lights while running. Turned off the car at the store. Never got it started at that point. Three weeks and a new car later, I tried turning on the car and it started running. Two cold starts afterwords and the engine sounded completely normal.
The first time it happened, I replaced the fuel filter with no luck starting. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition wires for what previously turned out to be a loose vacuum hose, so the plugs and wires can be ruled out. Last time the car sat for three weeks, I replaced the battery and the alternator seemed to test with no problem.
Based on this, I’ve narrowed down to fuel/air being the problem instead of ignition and electrical. I would think the oxygen sensor because of my dashboard going out and the car sounding very sluggish and underpowered. My other suspicions are the PCV valve and the fuel pump but the car doesn’t seem to have problems with gas getting places.
Not a pressing issue for me seeing as I’m trying to sell the car for cheap. But it’d be nice to narrow down the issue.

I was told by the dealer, after an engine replacement of my 2019 Honda insight hybrid touring, that the oil filters come with a plastic safety device that if not removed before replacing the filter could be sucked into your oil and cause your engine to need replacing.
This turned out not to be the cause of why my engine needed replacing but I just want to see if that was BS (it sounds like BS). I'm due for an oil change but this information makes me nervous about doing my self or letting anyone but the dealer shop handle it.
Can anyone verify that these plastic devices exist?

Hello. My car is Toyota Avensis T25 2006 1.8ZZ-FE engine. I went to service to change oil and oil filter. After that when driving on a highway at ~2500-3000 rpm I got a loud pop, smoke from under the car and when I stopped a huge oil spill appeared from under the engines right side (passenger side). I looked under the car and it seemed that it leaked oil from the position of oil drain plug. I parked car and came next day to tow it back to service. It started normally and oil was not leaking anymore. Mechanic told me that there he was unable to find any issues whatsoever and suspected stuck PCV valve which caused excessive crankcase gasses. When I asked if he found where the oil was leaking from, he said that he was unable to locate but due to high pressure it could be any weak spot - like crankshaft seal leak. He also said that he only added 2 liters of oil (total volume is 4 liters) so not all oil leaked. So after refilling he let me go and problem no longer present for a week already. No oil leaks are noticed now. Of course, I haven't tried to push harder on RMP.
Is it possible that "weak spot" the oil was leaking from sealed itself, because not all oil was lost and after oil refill there are no leaks anymore. Also I tried to test PCV system by disconnecting valve and doing "shake test" and it was fine for now. Also it looks like PCV system works correctly as cant feel suction of air from the hose that is connected to air intake before throttle valve (to the filtered air hose) and vacuum is created at the hose connected to intake manifold and PCV valve.
All this situation for me looks a bit suspicious as I thought the problem may be with oil drain plug gasket - wrong torque or maybe old gasket was not replaced or even removed. In this case I would expect all oil to leak, but I am not even sure anymore if it was not a case. Is there any possible causes for that or someone is trying to cover their mistakes (don't want to blame anyone, but I can't find any other explanation why problem just resolved itself).

2015 Chevy Colorado V6 LT
I made my second beginner mistake and bought the wrong oil for my truck. I bought 5w-20 instead of the manual spec 5w-30 or 0w-30. Luckily I caught it before I actually put it in. Should I go back to Autozone and buy the right one or would using the 5w-20 be alright? To my understanding it’s thinner than 5w-30.
It’s about to be summer in the middle of Texas and I’m going to be driving a lot. I gave the attendant my receipt that had the oil purchase on it when I went back to exchange the wrong oil filter. These item numbers are really giving me trouble obviously.