Power washers menards

Hoping to find a power washer to get the ickies off (house, sidewalk, trash can) I’m willing to trade if you have something you’re looking for and I have.

Generally say, electric ones are better. Beside the power source, the pump, pipe and valves have no quite difference. The the most advantage of electric ones are much less maintenance and last longer, you will save a lot of headaches and time. Less cost averagely, environmentally friendly. The only burden is the power cord.
For the gasoline and diesel pressure washer, other than frequent maintenance, also it needs very knowledge people to fix in case of engine problems. With time, it’s hard to start up, battery and wiring caused. www.BlastWashPro.com

I have a 1979 Sbc 350 that I’m having trouble getting the distributor to stay tight, it’s a new engine with less than 500 miles, Hei distributor on a Holley dominator intake. I have tried putting a shim on the housing to raise it from the oil pump shaft, put a different hold down clamp, bent old clamp to get tighter fit. I even swapped a different distributor in it and still having trouble, there is a aftermarket oil pump shaft since I heard the old nylon ones break, I haven’t tried a hold down stud just bolt but I put washers on it so it has no way to bottom out. The bolt tightens down but I can still move the whole distributor by hand and I don’t think that should be able to happen. I can set timing and drive it until I step on it a little bit and it gets out of timing where it runs rough at lights and has no power. Any suggestions or help would be amazing,

Hello all,
my first drone like 2-3 years ago was Moblite7, shortly after I got Geprc Smart 3.5" analog.
I didn't fly for a while but I got kinda dragged in again. And I'd like to build my first own drone. However, I aim towards Tiny Whoop capable of flying 1km distances, inspired with this video (and some others): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8u3Spn-uS4
Before I do that, I need to ask couple of questions and note my thoughts about the build, and I'd be glad if you commented any of the points!

1. FC - does it actually matter? I probably aim for ELRS built-in, but should I really care about other factors in AIO FC when it comes to Tiny Whoops? What can really differ? Two things I can think of are: a) Ports - on Moblite7 VTX antenna was soldered as single wire, I'd prefer to have some port to be honest. I broke it SO many times already (canopy could be useful, gotta get it). b) VTX - in my opinion the bigger VTX power available the better, especially if I wanna fly quite further.
2. Motors - to be honest EX0802 1900KV from Moblite7 seem to be okay. My only issue was that one shaft seemed thinner and propellers went out often. Now I have a lot of propellers of one type and barely of the other one lol. Would you recommend something else? What should I look like? I guess more KV = better?
3. Frame - the original Moblite7 frame seems okay, but my GNB 660mAh batteries had to be pushed in hard to get in and I think frame gets bent too much. In general I feel like my propellers aren't all parallel now. Is there any better frame to go for 75mm?
4. Propellers - original biblades seemed to be okay. Now I use 4 blades and I feel like they perform worse.
5. RTX Antenna - I guess some dipole antenna would be nice. But I see some FCs have built-in RTX small ceramic antennas. Are they good? Or should I find one with switchable antenna for some dipole?
6. VTX Antenna - as written previously, I'd like to have canopy and possibility to swap the VTX antenna. But I wonder how much of difference it gives if I'd choose some lollipop or califlower instead of these single wire antennas.
7. ESC - I don't really know what to look at. I think most of these AIO FCs have 5A-6A ESCs. So should I even look at ESC when looking for FC?
8. Camera - does it really matter? I feel like the image was almost the same on Geprc Smart 35 and Moblite7. Does it matter when it comes to analog at all?
9. Batteries - I aim for 660mAh - 850mAh for the long range, but on Moblite7 I liked freestyling on 450-520mAh. Problem is that these big batteries fit hard into the frame, and these smaller ones could be too loose. I wonder if there's some nice solution for that, like with straps on bigger drones. Anyone has ideas to make the battery slot universal?
10. Battery connector - I watched some videos and I am quite sure I'd like BT2.0, but not sure if there's better option now.
11. Flight stability - not sure how to say it, but I feel like my Moblite7 has lost stability over time. Maybe there are some issues I haven't solved, but I feel like when a drone hovers indoors on acro, it shouldn't randomly wobble slowly and move to other direction. I don't know what to look at to though to ensure it. Ideas?
12. Spare parts - I don't want to spend too much, but after some fun with Moblite7 I know I will need some spare parts, like 1-2 spare motors, maybe some motor washers/C-clips in case I can repair it myself, propellers and maybe VTX + RTX antenna. Actually that's all I guess, I doubt breaking camera and if I break FC then I kinda can build a new drone.
13. Others - I am not sure if I missed something. I don't know too much and never built a drone by myself. I know there are some details I am unsure of, like:

• will I get screws along with the motors?
• will I get any screws with FC/frame?
• won't my props be too lose for motor shafts? I know I can check the dimensions but on Moblite7 one motor shaft was too loose.
• where will I mount my camera, is there slot in canopy? How I mount it and make sure it stays in place? Or maybe is there better way to defend VTX antenna and not use canopy?
• I'd like to get as many elements as possible from as little shops as possible to reduce delivery costs.

I want to spend as little as needed. Thank you for any help or thoughts regarding some of these points. Even though I have been flying for some time already, I feel like a noob and have no clue about building my own drone. I am afraid I'll mess up something, something will not be compatible or I will just solder something badly.

This one is driving me crazy. I’ve taken the carb apart, checked the float and needle valve. To me, it seems like the needle valve, which is spring loaded, is not staying seated properly so the float bottoms out. Now the kicker - it only leaks when I put back on the air cleaner bracket. Then it leaks gas through the carb.
Running out of ideas and I’ve already replaced The carburetor and even have another one on order. Thanks for any advice or ideas.

Hi, I just bought some Carpro TarX and IronX, as well as some Meguiars All Wheel just to try it.
My car is 4 years old but has never had a good detail (I've owned it for 2 months now).
I don't own a hose nor a pressure washer, but I do have some ONR and a sprayer, as well as an ONR sponge, some towels, a wheel brush and Opti-Seal.
I have noticed quite a few spots on my paint after washing with ONR, and I think it's a mix of bugs, tar and iron. I wanted to do a full decontamination so keeping my paint clean in the future is gonna be easier.
My plan is to go to a coin operated car wash after washing and drying my car with ONR once.
Once there, I'd start with TarX. How should I avoid the plastic parts such as headlights or mudflaps, I heard it damages that? After a few minutes I would rinse it off with the pressure washer with "not quite demineralized water".
After the TarX, I'd spray the car with IronX, let that soak for a couple of minutes and pressure wash it off again. I'd spray some Meguiars all wheel cleaner on my wheels, agitate it with a wheel brush and then pressure wash that off too.
After all this I plan on spraying some more ONR on the car to avoid water spots and driving back home to finish it off with another ONR wash and drying with Opti-Seal.
Is there anything I could do to be more efficient? Is most of what I'm doing even necessary? Is there anything I should be careful of that I am not thinking about now?
I was thinking about adding a clay towel to the mix, in that case I would only go to the coin car wash to soak and rinse the TarX off. Then at home I'd soak the car in ONR, spray the IronX on the clay towel as lubricant and claying the car. Then I would spray it all off again with a weeds sprayer. I heard this causes marring though , I don't want to polish my car without a garage or power nearby. And I'm afraid of the IronX drying on the car and my sprayer not being powerful enough to remove it all on time.

Background:
The house is a new build but its out in the middle of nowhere North-ish Texas. Im not sure how reliable power would be out there and thus why Im trying to design a micro grid to keep me going in case of prolonged power failure.
The house should be pretty well insulated and have LP for heat, stove, oven. AC (efficient 3 ton and 2 ton units), washer, dryer, refrigerator, a larg-ish deep freeze plus lights, fans, etc.
Critical loads would be refrigeration, living room lights, ceiling fan, 3 ton AC unit (will have soft start capacitor)
I have a local installer that's quoting me the following:
They are estimating 19,400kWhs annually. System theoretical max is 13,365 but Ill likely never see that given that the inverters would max at 270w or ~8900w peak.
33 rec 420aa pure 2 panels
33 Enphase iq8+ inverters
2 Enphase 5p batteries
Enphase IQ 3G Controller (ill have an 18kw Generac generator connected to this system)
Span breaker box
Solar system - $41045
Storage system - $15072
Load Management (span panel) - Free
Total $56,117
This is my second home so I will likely not qualify for credits, but if I did, the max 30% would be ~$16,000

This one is driving me crazy. I’ve taken the carb apart, checked the float and needle valve. To me, it seems like the needle valve, which is spring loaded, is not staying seated properly so the float bottoms out. Now the kicker - it only leaks when I put back on the air cleaner bracket. Then it leaks gas through the carb.
Running out of ideas and I’ve already replaced The carburetor and even have another one on order. Thanks for any advice or ideas.

Trying to fix a broken electric pressure washer I needed to open the pump body to access the power switch. I didn't realize there was a liquid lubricant inside so that drained out, It's a fairly light weight grey fluid but that's all I know about it,
I expect I should use something specific and that may be difficult to figure out as I don't know the brand. I expect the pump is a cheap part used in many pressure washers like this. Is there something I should/could use without knowing about the original specs? It must have a very low viscosity as it almost looks/feels/flows like grey water.
If there's a better group for this question, please let me know.

HELP! Engine starts and will run while pumping water for 30 seconds to a minute. Then just cuts out. Restarts on one pull and runs 20-30 seconds before shutting down again. Filter in the bottom of fuel tank looks clean. Drained the tank and blew air with good results. Took the nozzle and main jet out and they looked clean. No filter in the fuel line. What am I missing?

I have a small storage space in a mid sized city and I’m looking to buy an asset I can store there and rent/deliver to people as needed. Power washers are trending on social media and lowes rents cheap floor cleaners for apartments so those are probably out.
Curious what ideas you all have?

This is latex fence stain from last summer. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove this besides my ineffective power washer? Perhaps I can treat it with something? Suggestions welcome.

Sharing what I wrote on X:
It’s about so much more than being up 75%
It’s about the ppl - amid covid, out of work, exacerbated mental health problems, uncertainty, etc - we found hope and community on Reddit. An opportunity.
Many of us dealt with death, financial woes, etc - but it was so fun to follow the saga. We had a regular person at the helm. David and Goliath.
I lost my job and just had a baby. I followed along - my small investment - and thought about how I could buy a new washer and dryer with my small but mighty win.
Then the rug sweep. Powerful ppl did nothing (no surprise), and big banks screwed the little guy again.
So, EFF your $35 stock, that will never be enough. The core 25% isn’t going anywhere without 6-figure+ prices.
Small but mighty we aren’t okay that the game was rigged.
Power to the shareholders