Had a few things get denied lately that felt like they should have been approved so not feeling super hopefully but we shall see soon.
https://preview.redd.it/qofqd6nl9s1d1.png?width=992&format=png&auto=webp&s=8d6cdb38b6d1f3d4665d5153d487e86b9478ba47

Just about done wrapping up this P10C but I wanted to drop some promo codes for everyone. 360TS will get you a price break at Apex, Infinite Defense, Floyd’s Custom Shop, KORE belts, Optics Planet, C&H Precision and Brownells. Some companies do have restrictions but feel free to use it

Today started gentler than expected, both of us awake before the alarm. I forgot how early first light is, already the city was waking up in the dim blue of the predawn. We brushed our teeth and got dressed and muttered about how ridiculous it was that we needed to be at the ferry terminal an hour early. They weren't going to check anything besides our tickets, but then again, we've heard worse stories about dumber technicalities. Just after 430 we were outside and a few minutes later we were away.
The city in the morning was mostly quiet, a few trucks rumbling on the highway. Luckily the forecasted rain had already ended, I had fully expected to have the added misery of being wet and cold to the headache of being up too early. We arrived somewhat breathless to the ferry terminal, a giant ferry awaiting us. Lines and lines of heavy trucks were waiting their turn to load while lots of cars were also waiting. Looks like everyone took the hour before rule seriously. An attendant looked at our QR codes and told us to put a sign that he gave us on our bikes and put them to the side while we waited for general boarding, which was in 45 minutes. Grumbling, we parked our bikes and went inside the terminal.
The terminal was simple but clean, I double checked the reservation with someone at a computer as I had nothing better to do. Upstairs there was a small gift shop where we bought a box of cookies for our upcoming host. Seemed like we should try to get them something from a region they're not from, though I'm sure they'll appreciate the sentiment. The cookies do look tasty though. We shared a drink from a machine and stared out the window, a little dazed. Framed tourism posters were hung about the space, one for each region in Japan. I initially thought they were anime posters, but it seems that's just how ads are made. Maybe one inspired the other.
Eventually it was time to board, we were the last as is usual when we're biking. We walked our bikes up the ramp to the second deck and were ushered to one side where after we had removed our bags our bikes were wrapped in blankets and secured to the wall. We thanked them and headed into the ferry. The third deck had a check in counter where we got a key to our room, which was a private room but not facing the ocean. We only wanted the room to nap in, so that was fine. The third deck had bunk rooms as well as a room where you just got a section of the floor, while the fourth deck had the private rooms, the ones facing in like ours and the more expensive ones facing out. The fifth deck had the deluxe rooms as well as the suites (which I don't think were even available to rent). We plunked down our bags and I went back to sleep.
I found the rocking motion of the ship rather soothing while laying down, and settled into a light nap for a few hours. Around 830, both of us needed something to eat, so we went to explore the ship's amenities. We found the cafe, which had a disappointingly small selection of things to eat. We later would find out that the restaurant that serves breakfast did not open, probably leading to a run on the pastries. We got a cookie and coffee and sat at a table, watching the waves go by. Bryce informed me that he gets seasick around this time, leading me to ask him why he wanted to do this then. He just likes boats I guess.
After breakfast we wandered around to see the amenities. We found the grill restaurant that was more expensive than we cared to spend on, a small arcade with machines from the 80's, some air hockey tables (the sports corner), a theatre with a 10am showing of Tom and Jerry, some vending machines (ice cream time), the onsens, a yellowed smoking room straight out of 1994, a business corner, and a kids corner with blocks. I wanted to play with the blocks but didn't. They would never understand. Also kids are gross and I'm sick enough already. Overall, the same as anything else we've seen in Japan, a relic of the 80's, still spotless, still running, but at 10% capacity. More employees than you can shake a stick at, all doing their very best job.
I felt a little ill after writing for awhile so I went to go lay down while Bryce went to the arcade, promising to nobody in particular that he was going to wait til lunch to crack open a cold one. I said I didn't care but good luck with that as I went back to bed. Being horizontal with nowhere to go felt good for awhile. I had a lot of writing to catch up on.
Towards lunch I got up and found Bryce in front of a slot machine with a strong zero in his hand. I said nothing about the pre lunch drink, but asked if he won anything. One of the machines you could spin all you like, so we did that for awhile. There was one machine that looked fun, so I played a top down shooter for awhile while Bryce tried his luck at some godawful prize machine full of dusty crap. Eventually the restaurant opened for lunch and we filed. There was a 25th anniversary ramen available, and we both got that, along with a croissant. The ramen was pretty good, I found the shio broth comforting. The croissant was because it didn't fill us up enough.
After lunch I was in the mood for a bath. An onsen on a ship felt like a luxury I wanted to try and I thought it would be restful. Bryce had no interest in trying his luck at hiding his tattoos, I didn't care if I got kicked out at this point. What're they gonna do, tell me to get off at the next stop? I did what I always do, hold a hand towel over my arm and mind my business. As expected, not many people were using the bath after lunch and I had it to myself aside from a mother and her babbling toddler who only spent a few minutes there. The bath had a view of the mountains of hokkaido in the distance, and Hakodate a little closer. It was a neat sight to be in a hot open bath while watching the ocean go by. The rest of the ship was whatever but this was nice. I did a few laps of the bath and cold water, and sat in the steam room, hoping the hot air would somehow cure my ailments. I got a chance to properly wash my hair, which had become just fouled from all the road dust, sweat, and body oils that had built up. Gross. I don't usually shampoo as I don't usually need to, but once a week or so I definitely need it while on the road.
After the onsen I went to go see how Bryce was doing, happily reading his book in a chair by the ocean. He accompanied me to the room to lay down for awhile, the hot water and sloshing of the rough seas making me feel a little ill again. In our room, we heard a faraway bang like we hit something. I'm sure it's nothing. The ship sure seemed like it was leaning more to one side though. We didn't do too much else for the rest of the ride, we did a few more laps of the ship trying to find more things. We did find the forward saloon, which sounds wild but is merely a room facing forward with comfy couches. Unfortunately all the windows are blocked off, so the room is a little pointless other than a private space to talk or read in a dim room. The ship overall was comfortable, but I definitely got a little nauseated from the rough seas.
The ship finally docked, late, and we were let out to the open air of Hokkaido. It's a bit chilly here! I immediately noticed the change in air, it's less humid for sure. It will be a shift to go back to cool temperatures but a welcome one. Nights in the tent should be much less sticky at least! Good thing we still have our biking tights, riding in just shorts is pretty cold here in the evening. Truthfully though the cool temperatures is better for biking and I wasn't really enjoying the heat, so this is a welcome surprise.
We docked at the east port of Tomakomai, which meant we had to bike into the city where we planned to stay another night. I needed another really solid sleep to finally kick this illness, so one more hotel night before we braved the wilderness south of Sapporo. We braced ourselves and headed west, directly into a heavy crosswind that was some of the steadiest and toughest wind we've seen yet. It swept right over the flat grassy areas on the coast, really reminding us of the prairies. Everything is so spread out here compared to the rest of the country, I wonder if Sapporo is like this too.
After a rough push through the wind on roads that were somewhat falling apart from the truck traffic and a lack of maintenance, we got to a town about halfway. The nausea from the boat was getting to me and we were both too hungry to go further without a bite to eat. Luckily Hokkaido has their own brand of conbinis and we were more than happy to see some new products. We got their take on fried chicken, some Hokkaido grown potato wedges and some soft drinks we hadn't seen yet. The wedges were great, the chicken was good and one of the drinks was terrible. Sour bubbly water with no flavor. What's the point?
Biking further into the city now, we rode over bumpy roads on very wide, very long roads designed entirely for cars in mind. Don't get me wrong the bike path was nice but the distances between buildings reminded me again of the prairies. It takes forever to get anywhere! I might find the streets of Hokkaido a little dull if things are this spread out, but then again we couldn't even scratch the surface of things before so maybe we won't feel like we're missing out as much.
We stopped twice for bike parts, Bryce getting a new tube to hold on reserve, I got a spoke wrench that I'm excited to try out. My rear wheel should be well tensioned, so I can go off of that. Next we headed to the hotel. We debated laundry tonight, but ultimately there were a few too many things to do and I'd rather enjoy myself, get to bed on time and then get up and do laundry over breakfast tomorrow. The hotel was lovely enough, with little surprises for later. First we needed a proper dinner.
Barbecue was on the mind, but we landed up at an izakaya. We ordered edamame, a green salad, chicken wings, a plate of assorted skewers and more hokkaido potatoes. The potatoes, again, were far and away the best part of the meal. The company was a group of red-faced salarymen watching a baseball game along with the rest of the staff who were also eagerly watching the action. The Izakaya had all sorts of baseball accoutrements which made watching fun. Normally I'd rather peel off my fingernails one by one then watch baseball, but with some friendly folks letting me know when to be excited with their cheering I can enjoy it. As we were leaving one man gave us some lemon candies he had and Bryce surprised him by having maple candies for everyone in the building, much to their delight.
Bryce needed to recoat his jacket, so we went to a parking lot and did that under a streetlight. It would need to dry overnight, another reason to do the laundry in the morning. I wanted a piece of the onsen on the top level. Inside there were three baths, two hot and one cold, with one of the hot baths being outside. I luxuriated outside by myself for some time in the cool air, as well as the hot bath indoors in the wood panelled room, and a sauna with a tv inside! All very nice. I took advantage of the cleaners and lotions available, and the freezer full of popsicles outside the onsen.
Back in the room, there was a fruit jelly waiting for us in the fridge which we enjoyed, a strawberry puree. But the treats weren't over yet, from 930-11pm we could enjoy the hotel's original late night ramen. Now this isn't something I want to have late at night normally, but this is exactly the kind of thing that makes me smile. Time limited free food? I'll set an alarm. The soup itself was nothing special, but the presentation and the fact I could have it in hotel jammies made it all the better. Truly, a good rest day. I could have done without the 20km ride in the wind, but I can't have everything I guess.