Dishwasher plumbing riser diagram

Advice on what is necessary/recommended for inspection

2024.05.14 22:27 Minimalist19 Advice on what is necessary/recommended for inspection

Hello, I'm looking to buy a house and I got the below from the inspection company that my realtor is reocmmending. This is the second home I've bought and the first home it was much more straight forward as it was a slightly newer build and was a townhouse. Which of the below options make sense given the house details below:
Home Details:
Located in Albany, OR

Type & style

Bedrooms & bathrooms

Material information

Condition

Flooring

Heating

Cooling

Other construction

"Well-maintained with new roof & triple-paned windows. Tastefully updated with LVP flooring in kitchen, dining, hall and bath, new carpets in bedrooms, new kitchen lighting, new appliances, dishwasher, refrigerator, microwave and water heater."
\***Seller did disclose owner prior to them had electrical fire damage**\**
The house is very well maintained and looks like whoever has been living there the last 10 years has taken a lot of effort to ensure the place is practically spotless for a house built in 1979
BELOW ARE THE OPTIONS FROM THE INSPECTION COMPANY
The Premium Package
The Premium Package is our most popular choice, the most thorough inspection, and the best value for your dollar. This inspection includes a checklist that will encompass the entire home inspection process (i.e. structure and foundation; a representative sample of windows, doors, lights, and receptacles; moisture detection; attic and crawlspace areas; roof, gutters, and drainage; walls, floors, and ceilings; porches and decks; plumbing systems and fixtures in kitchens, baths, and laundries; electrical sytems and breaker panels; HVAC; built-in appliances; and a general check for wood destroying organisms*). Everything is compiled for you on-site so that when we are done, you have all the information provided in a printed report which is computer-generated with color photos and presented to you in a professional binder. Inside the binder, you will find a seasonal maintenance checklist, a cost guide for remodeling and repairs, and a filing system to keep track of receipts. Since Pillar To Post is the largest home inspection company in North America, we have alliances with many vendors on services you may need as a homeowner. In addition, we use infrared technology that allows us to check the electrical system to detect overheating circuit wires and breakers and for any hidden water leaks that would not normally be seen by the naked eye. Also included is a Rodent Inspection, Visual Summary with Measured Floor Plans, and a Centriq Report.
Infrared Scan - Using the most technologically advanced tools available allows us to detect moisture in wet areas of the home (i.e. kitchens and bathrooms and around windows and doors) that is invisible to the human eye. The use of these tools also enables us to locate areas throughout the home or structure that have overheating or malfunctioning electrical components (i.e. breakers and electrical panels). This work can make a critical difference during the home inspection process.
Centriq Report - During your inspection, we will capture the information of up to five major home appliances and provide you with a computerized report on any safety recalls for those appliances using the Centriq app. Centriq is a home inventory and maintenance platform designed to monitor for appliance recalls and track user manuals, parts, and support videos for your home. During the inspection, the inspector will add appliances and systems from the home into the Centriq app, and you will receive a Centriq recall report via e-mail within 48 hours. You will also have the option of adding items to the app in the future.
Rodent Inspection - In addition to our high quality, comprehensive home inspection which will highlight past or present infestation, we will also investigate and report on conditions in the home that are conducive to rodent activity so that you may be pre-emptive in the containment and control of these potential issues before a problem occurs. This includes checking for points of entry and signs of nesting, especially in the crawlspace of the home.
PTP360 - During our inspection, we will construct an interactive virtual tour that will provide you with 360° visuals of your future home. It will include thumbnails with comments and photos from your inspection report in relation to their location within the home. This feature also includes measured floor plans to aid you in any future projects or home planning.
Lifetime Maintenance Advisory Service - Following our inspection, and your purchase of the home, we will provide advice and answer your questions on home maintenance, the inspection report, and other home-related topics for as long as you own the home. Feel free to give us a call anytime! We are happy to continue our service to you.
Enhanced Customer Service Commitment - Our aim is to provide you with quality reporting and excellent customer care. Our office staff are available to direct your questions and concerns should the occasion arise, and our inspectors have a wealth of knowledge and expertise to assist you with all of your inspection needs. If you are not satisfied with our service, we will pay another inspection company of your choice to inspect your home again up to the value of your investment with our company.
*During each of our inspections, we do a general check for Wood Destroying Organisms (i.e. carpenter ants, termites, and wood-boring beetles) as well as evidence of dry rot. We do not, however, list the specific insects observed without the purchase of a WDO report. This is due to Oregon's home inspection laws regarding the reporting of Pest & Dry Rot information, sometimes required by lenders. If you do not need your report to specifically state which insects are or are not observed at the time of inspection, you may not need to add the WDO report to your inspection package. Please check with your loan officer before considering this add-on option and let us know if we can provide you with any further clarification.
The cost of this package is $ 742.35 You will also receive a 15% discount on any Added Service options.

The Prestige Package
This package provides you with additional peace of mind. It includes everything that comes with the Premium Package, as well as an air-mold anaylsis and a screen of the home for common allergens (i.e. cat, dog, cockroach, and dust mites), benefiting those who suffer from allergies, asthma, or immune deficiencies. It uses the most up-to-date technology to determine potential health risks in those areas and recommendations for further action.
Healthy Home Package - Houses safeguard the lives of the people who live in them. Increasingly so, it is known that poor air quality, including allergens, can pose potential health risks if not detected and addressed. Indeed, if someone in your home suffers from allergies, asthma, chronic sinus issues, or other breathing disorders, poor air quality becomes critical to their love and enjoyment of the home. In addition, mold can eventually cause structural damage to your home.
The Pillar To Post Healthy Home Package provides: -An air quality sampling to test for molds and allergens that may be present in the home, identified and verified through a certified third-party laboratory analysis. -An easy-to-read report that helps you understand what was found and a recommended course of action to follow. -The knowledge of what you need to do to protect your investment and, at the same time, make your home a healthier place for you and your family to live.
Please keep in mind that the results of the mold and allergen tests take 5-7 business days to get back to us. We will provide you with those reports as soon as they are available.
The cost of the healthy home package is $ 1388.75 You would also get a 30% discount of any Added Service options.

The Plus Package
This package is our third offering and the most basic whole house inspection we provide. It is just like the Premium inspection but without the extras(Infrared Technology, Rodent Inspection, Visual Summary with Measured Floor Plans, and Centriq Report).
Selecting this package does not provide any discounts on various Added Service options. The cost of this package is $ 505.00

Recommended Added Service options for your inspection:
Sewer Scoping : $195.00
Radon Testing : $195.00
Wood Destroying Organisms : $80.00
submitted by Minimalist19 to HomeInspections [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 18:42 issai Process to monitor water usage? Single-family house of senior parents with self-watering yards

Senior parents have had their fair share of plumbing issues over the years, many of which I've helped & managed for them, so I'm a bit sensitive when it comes to plumbing issues at their place. (Electrical too but that's another story).
To get to the point, the water bill at my parents' single family house has skyrocketed over the past few billing cycles (each cycle is 2 months long). Utility reports show that their water usage (cuft of usage) is anywhere from 2x-5x more than their historical multi-year average (whether we're looking at 2-year, 5-year, or 10-year timeframes), which is costing $250-500+ per billing cycle.
Utility deployed a technician and who confirmed to me in-person that the water meter is accurate and leak detector shows no leaks.
Parents self-water their front and back yards. Their water usage spiked 5x greater than average a couple billing cycles ago during a rather wet winter though. Yet every time I visit my parents and take a look around, the yards seem more parched than moist. Total area of yards is around 7000 square feet.
Parents also seem to be running more loads of laundry per week, maybe 6+ loads, with a washing machine that's about 2 years old so should be more efficient, but I think their usage still seems to be within reason and shouldn't cause the huge spike? Maybe I'm wrong on this.
They're usually more stingy with indoor water usage for daily things, Such as dishwashing, bathing, etc.
For the current billing cycle which reset 2 weeks ago, once again they're on track for using about 2x more than their historical average once again.
Any ideas on what we can do to try tracking down the culprit? If they're paying $250-500 per billing cycle, then we're willing to spend a reasonable amount of money to address this to offset the cost spike.
Edit: we don't think toilets are running.
submitted by issai to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 17:48 sndrsk Not really proud of my work

This isn't about being overwhelmed with the to-do list -- this sub already has some great tips on overcoming that. This is more about the work itself.
When I bought my house in 2016, I wasn't handy but I put a lot of time and effort into learning and doing some work to spruce this old house up like painting, landscaping, replacing fixtures, drywall repairs, minor electrical, building furniture (I made my own entertainment center and a desk for my work-from-home office) and tasks like that. I was largely happy with my results and I actually enjoyed doing the work and knocking items off the to-do list.
Now, it seems like I'm never happy with my results. I learn best by doing, I'll try doing anything once, and I always learn something from the project. As a result, most of the time I end up going back to re-do something because of the lessons learned, so everything takes longer to finish. And most of the time I'm still not happy with it.
The latest example is my back deck. It's fairly large. In 2022 I hired a contractor to re-do it. Well, he wasn't a great contractor. He mostly worked half-days and only showed up 2-3 days out of the week. When he started laying the decking he didn't even stagger the boards (in a high-traffic area nonetheless), so I had to explain to him he had to stagger the boards (which was crazy, and I had seen prior deck work he did, so he definitely should have known). The bottom of the stringers for the stairs were half on the concrete landing and half hanging off. He came and did some work while we were out of town. I don't want to get into specifics, but he put the young woman that was watching our house and dogs in an unsafe situation. As soon as I got back and she told me what happened, I told him his equipment is in front of the garage and he's done working at our house.
So I picked up where he left off on the deck project and did the best I could. It turned out ok, but there are some things that I'm not happy with like some of the railing posts aren't plumb and some of the joints on the railings were junky. So I went back and re-did them and made better miter cuts on the railing corners. But I'm still not happy, and even though I was happy with my miters, the wood has since shrunk and they're back to looking kind of junky. I still have to finish putting the spindles on the staircase and stain/seal the deck, so this project is definitely dragging on.
Things like this just kind of discourage me from doing more. I'm hesitant to start any other projects because once I swing the hammer there's no undo button and I know I have no choice but to follow through and finish. My can-do "I'll watch YouTube and try anything once" attitude has taken a hit because I haven't been happy with my own results. I don't think I'm a perfectionist but I know the phrase "my half-ass is someone else's full-ass" applies.
As an example of this discouragement, I hired a contractor to replace the old carpet in the house with LVP flooring in August 2021. Despite me letting him know the locking mechanism isn't like traditional LVP and the manufacturer has specific instructions, he didn't follow them so as a result I have some chipped planks and I can tell that the flooring in some rooms don't have adequate room to expand in the winter. The primary issue is that the treads and risers on the stairs have completely fallen apart. I've had the tools and materials to fix this since 2021 but I just don't want to start out of the fear it's not going to look good or last. After all, the work the contractors did weren't very good and I'm not happy with the results of my own work either.
I place trust in contractors so I don't hover or micromanage them but I haven't had the best luck with contractors and that's burned me, which makes me want to avoid them completely and do these improvements myself. I think I can do it via YouTube and "on-the-job", but I don't feel like I will do it well and I'll want to go back and fix issues.
I don't want validation, but I want to know anything that has helped anyone here to overcome a similar obstacle? I feel like I should be a lot further in my skills at this point after 8 years, minus a few years where I didn't have time to do much.
submitted by sndrsk to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 15:52 boomhaeur Question re: drainback systems for submersible pumps feeding from a lake (details in photo caption)

Question re: drainback systems for submersible pumps feeding from a lake (details in photo caption)
Wondering if plumbing can help point me in the right direction. I’m planning to add a drainback setup to our cottage water system to make it more winter friendly but I had two quick questions:
  1. For 1,2 & 3 in the diagram attached, are there better names to search for these parts? My searches seems aren’t bringing the right kind of parts back (or at least not parts I’m 100% certain are correct). In my application 1 & 2 would also be under water.
  2. The cottage doesn’t have backup power so I’m reluctant to rely on heated lines and am considering the air back pressure approach - Are there specific air systems/setups you would recommend there? (The main cottage lines are setup to easy drain so we never leave the place with water in the lines when not there)
Thanks in advance!
submitted by boomhaeur to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 12:44 CompetitiveSummer714 [US-VA] Pay repair and Deduct rent

below is the sections from the lease:
  1. LANDLORD MAINTENANCE. Except as otherwise noted, Landlord shall maintain Premises in compliance with the Uniform Statewide Building Code and the VRLTA and shall be responsible for repairs not due to the fault or negligence of Tenant.
  2. FIXTURES AND APPLIANCES. Landlord shall provide as part of Premises any existing built-in heating and central air conditioning equipment, plumbing and lighting fixtures, storm windows, storm doors, screens, installed wall-to-wall carpeting, exhaust fans, window shades, blinds, window treatment hardware, smoke and heat detectors, TV antennas, sump pumps, exterior trees and shrubs. and such other items as are listed below. Appliances: Gas Range , Dishwasher, Washer Dryer, Refrigerator, Disposal , Microwave
The AC is broken. Based on the lease the AC(central air conditioning equipment) is the landlords responsibility to fix. I let the landlord know in writing that it was broken on April 29. It has now been 14 days and the landlord just emailed me that he wants me to pay to repair it. Under VA law i know there are two options. 1) pay and deduct and 2) tenant assertion, which involves the court. I want to do option 1 and get a licensed contractor to repair the AC and then deduct from rent for the following month. Is this possible? and if so, how much would i deduct based on § 55.1-1244.1? would i be protected from eviction?
submitted by CompetitiveSummer714 to Tenant [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 06:43 CompetitiveSummer714 VA and Repairs

below is the sections from the lease:
  1. LANDLORD MAINTENANCE. Except as otherwise noted, Landlord shall maintain Premises in
compliance with the Uniform Statewide Building Code and the VRLTA and shall be responsible for repairs
not due to the fault or negligence of Tenant.
  1. FIXTURES AND APPLIANCES. Landlord shall provide as part of Premises any existing built-in heating
and central air conditioning equipment, plumbing and lighting fixtures, storm windows, storm doors, screens,
installed wall-to-wall carpeting, exhaust fans, window shades, blinds, window treatment hardware, smoke and
heat detectors, TV antennas, sump pumps, exterior trees and shrubs. and such other items as are listed below.
Appliances: Gas Range , Dishwasher, Washer Dryer, Refrigerator, Disposal , Microwave
The AC is broken. Based on the lease the AC(central air conditioning equipment) is the landlords responsibility to fix. I let the landlord know in writing that it was broken on April 29. It has now been 14 days and the landlord just emailed me that he wants me to pay to repair it. Under VA law i know there are two options. 1) pay and deduct and 2) tenant assertion, which involves the court. I want to do option 1 and get a liscenced contractor to repair the AC and then deduct from rent for the following month. Is this possible? and if so would i be protected from eviction?
submitted by CompetitiveSummer714 to legaladvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 01:55 SabreCanuck2020 Not your usual VENT question. :) :) :)

Not your usual VENT question. :) :) :)
Howdy,
I setup a backyard water feature with a waterfall-stream-pond. The pond drains through a 2" PVC downhill into a water tote and circulates back up when the pump is running. Last year when I built the system the tote was above ground and the pipes were too visible. This year I lowered the tote into the ground which caused the drain pipe to be on more of an angle. The gurgling noise coming out of the drain vent at the pond end (top end of drain) has become significant compared to last year. I'm pretty certain it's due to the increased slope of the drain. The question is - If I put another vent down at the Water tote end of the drain pipe do you think it would prevent the gurgling in the vent at the top?
rough diagram of plumbing
Drain goes down that hill, then sloped back into tote where I'm standing
submitted by SabreCanuck2020 to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 01:45 SubachuGC 2nd floor closet bathroom

2nd floor closet bathroom
I'm looking to put a small half bath into an upstairs closet, approximately 4'x5' (diagram attached not to scale) that I thought was directly above a closet, but upon further digging realized it's above our 2nd bedroom. My new plan as I only have 2x6 joists that doesn't leave me enough room to drill through, is plumb the toilet to the side, then to the vanity with an aav in the vanity, 90 down through the ceiling, 90 back to the closet, where I can 90 down to the basement. My question is if this will pose any issues with flow.
The blue lines illustrate the floor joists, the red line is the rough idea of the plumbing layout.
4 occupants and one toilet leaves a lot to be desired, and this is the only space large enough to squeeze a half bath. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated
submitted by SubachuGC to askaplumber [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 01:15 tumadredespacito Second post for today because I think there might be a big foundation issue lol

Second post for today because I think there might be a big foundation issue lol
I posted half an hour ago about our bathroom tiles, but after looking at the sub Reddit a bit more I realized we might have a much bigger issue.
Pictured are a couple spots in our house where the flooring isn’t solid. If we step on them wrong, the boards will sag down almost a quarter inch, and scare the hell out of us. Is this a “find another rental asap” situation?
I put painters tape around them before we even finished moving in, and they are 100% aware of the problem. We’ve lived here since March of this year, and there have been a barrage of problems that they haven’t fully addressed yet.
Will we have a legal case in the event that this gets nasty, and would we be able to terminate the lease if no attention is paid to our complaints?
Also pictured are some other issues we’ve complained about in the past. The doors are both exterior doors as well, neither of them seal. Not pictured are tons of gnats everywhere due to standing water problems in the disposal and dishwasher(we only hand wash, there’s a plumbing issue that slowly fills it up).
submitted by tumadredespacito to Renters [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 01:08 Secure-Marionberry56 How do I repair this drain hose on my Whirlpool dishwasher?

How do I repair this drain hose on my Whirlpool dishwasher?
I'll be the first to admit, don't know a ton about plumbing. Came home today and this drain hose for my dishwasher, which apparently was connected to the drain pipe of my right sink, appears to have fallen off. What is the best cost effective way for me to repair this, and what product?
Thanks in advance for any help offered
submitted by Secure-Marionberry56 to Appliances [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 00:51 jakogut Help dealing with plumber for roughing in kitchen island

Help dealing with plumber for roughing in kitchen island
I hired a plumber to come rough in a new drain and water lines for a kitchen island I'm building. The intent is to install a new sink and dishwasher in the island.
I have an existing sink with a 1 1/2" drain and old galvanized supply lines. I hired the plumber to install a new drain to be shared by the island and existing sink, and to connect the existing sink with my PEX manifold, while roughing in new lines for the island. I ripped up the old flooring and subfloor to gain access, as it's a crawlspace foundation adjacent to a basement, and the "crawlspace" doesn't have enough room to crawl in, nor an entryway even if it did.
They installed a new 2" ABS drain, which looks great, and roughed in the new water supply lines. In the process, they also demoed the existing drain and supply lines, leaving them disconnected from the existing sink. When I the plumber said he was done, I asked the about this, he said there wasn't enough slope to connect the existing drain with the new one, as there's not enough room in the hole that was chiseled into the basement wall when the kitchen was added on to maintain proper slope.
I wish he had said something before doing all the work, as if the hole needs to be deeper for slope, I have a rotary hammer and I can help with it.
Here's the hole to the basement with the new drain and supply lines
https://preview.redd.it/xug2xtejv90d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2fb6bbcf63b11a3d75cf86f83ec6cb9a07a39e23
Here's where the old drain and supply lines now end
https://preview.redd.it/hquq2n1ov90d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=595b56b56b3fa4b14a81d565a2280a5c88b204c6
The old drain can be maneuvered over top of the new PEX lines, but then it probably doesn't have the necessary slope. The way it is now, it's far too sloped, and won't be able to connect to the 2" drain. I'm not a plumber, but it seems to me that these lines being in the way of the old drain shouldn't be necessary.
I'm in a bit of a pickle, because I now have no working kitchen sink at all, and I can't close the floor up until I'm done with the plumbing. We weren't planning on decommissioning the old sink either, I made it clear I wanted the old sink to remain operational.
How can this be fixed?
submitted by jakogut to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 20:30 Flbeachluvr62 Water Heater Leaking from PRV

First please excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong term for something. We have a 9 year old A.O. Smith hybrid water heater that was installed when our house was built. For the last year or so the pressure relief valve has been leaking as the tank refills after using a large amount of hot water. Like for a bath, doing a hot water wash or using the dishwasher. We had a plumbing company come out and change the valve and all was fine for a few days. It then started leaking again. I'm assuming this is not because the new valve is bad but as a safety feature as the tank pressure might be too high. Water heater is set for 125 degrees. I've talked to a few people with plumbing experience who all seem stumped. We'd rather not have to replace the whole tank if we don't need to. There is an expansion tank installed towards the bottom of the water heater, not on top like others I've seen. Any thoughts or things we can trouble shoot ourselves before calling out a plumber again?
submitted by Flbeachluvr62 to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 11:38 sr20xe RO System Drain Saddle Install

RO System Drain Saddle Install
Recently purchased an RO system from Springwell and I am in the middle of the install. The next step is installing the drain saddle before the P trap on the sink drain. Wanted to be sure I had the right location before I start drilling.
Btw, I have a sink with one drain and that drain has a food disposal. The instructions (pic provided) state not to install the drain saddle in two locations near the disposal. I don't see any other spots to install the drain saddle other than the locations with a red arrow, the same locations the installation instructions say not to install the drain saddle.
Will there be issues if I install at either of the spots I've marked (2 red x in 1st pic)? Thank you in advance.
submitted by sr20xe to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 07:15 IBoris Qube 500 Flatpack Review & tips (plus suggestions to CM). [long]

Just got done building in the Qube 500 Flatpack black edition, very pleasant experience.
Here is my review in bullet points. Then tips on building in the sucker as bullet points, and finally suggestions addressed to CoolerMaster (henceforth "CM") in, you guessed it, motherflippin' bulletpoints.

Review

  1. Instructions: The written instructions were not great. Had that "draw the rest of the owl" energy to them. The order of the steps in the guide were all over the place for no reason. Please reassign the Extraterrestrial who writes your manuals to other projects. I feel this whole experience could be optimized and dialed in further. Maybe a number system or a colour code. Maybe CM can do a collab with Ikea and have their people help out. My body is ready for blue/yellow cases.
  2. Flatpack concept: I really love the flatpack case concept; it's a few tweaks away from being great, and it has the potential to become the new standard for budget and mid-range cases. I really hope CM continues with this concept. Fundamentally, it's just 12 screws. 4 in the back, 4 in the front, 2 for the top and 2 for the bottom. All attached to the central Motherboard tray. Really hard to mess up.
  3. Packaging: very high quality. The diagrams on the interior were not helpful. I think it was missing an overall diagram illustrating that this was packaged in layers, and you were expected to assemble layer by layer. I mean, I figured it out quickly, but a piece of paper at the top announcing what was going to be happening would have been great.
  4. Case design elements: Lots of fluff text stamped everywhere on the case itself as well, text written about how each panel is steel, or that the glass is glass. We get it CM. The materials are made of materials
  5. Cooling: It comes with 1 fan which, if that's all the cooling you use, is not going to be enough if its a gaming rig. I do wish an extra fan was included, I associate 1 case fans with budget cases, and this is definitely not budget feeling or priced. I added a few fans cannibalized from the old case, so no big deal.
  6. Screws: I really appreciate that there was only one size of screws. That was a nice touch. Please only ever do this going forward for all the stuff you make. Give a raise to the person who came up with that idea. The inclusion of only silver coloured screws with the black case was dissapointing. What a weird corner to cut.
  7. Extras: I really wish I could have bought extra accessories, attachments, panels or parts for the Qube when I ordered it. I understand from the promo materials that it's designed to play nice with 3D printing to some extent, but a modular design BEGS for a part catalogue for customization. The Macaron edition, with its extra cosmetic panels, is a good first step, but those should be available separately too. This case badly needed more options. This could be a flagship product for you guys, if the logistics can keep up with an initial marketing push.
  8. Radiator Bracket: Without a mesh side panel for the left of the case I'm not sure I understand the point of the hinged radiator bracket. It's certainly not providing much in the way of sturctural integrity and without a flow through for air, why bother? Unless the case can be modded to switch the panels? I read nothing about that in the documentation provided and all the promo pics show it behind the glass panel. Weird. Thankfully it's removeable. If panels can be flipped and moved around, please indicate it more clearly. If they can't, well, why not?

Tips and tricks

My specific build was a "put lipstick on a pig" kind of project. Basically a case swap for an older system to make it re-sellable. The construction quality of this thing bumped a budget-looking system to premium-looking. Very happy with the result.
  1. PSU positioning: My pig uses a non-modular ATX PSU. I was very apprehensive as the GPU option I wanted to put in, a 3070, was "too long" technically speaking and although I had a smaller PSU available, I did not want to swap it given the price point I'm going for with this build.
    Thankfully the GPU went in with room to spare. How? Turns out one of the pros of a fully non-modular PSU is all the cables come out in one area and so the spot where PSU connectors would normally interfere with a long GPU is totally clear and Cooler master had a channel just waiting there to route the PSU cables. See here.
    After testing, even if I would have placed the PSU in the lowest mounting bracket offered by the case (for water cooling), there would have been room for a longer GPU with this PSU configuration. Very cool!
  2. Cable Management: Given that there is plenty of room behind the motherboard tray for cable management and plenty of tie-down points, the Qube turned out to be fantastic for cable management even with all the extra PSU cabling I had to deal with (my Pig also uss a 2.5 SSD drive too). Overall it looks much neater than I expected despite the unshrouded PSU situation. Honestly this might be the thing that surprised me the most about the case. It looks really clean. Granted I did a lot of the cable management as I went, BEFORE the step where CM suggests doing a bit of cable management (lol).
    I really disliked how unhelpful CM's instructions were in this regard. I did all of this out of experience, but I could see new builders getting frustrated. This case has plenty of room to cable manage when disassembled, and it in fact a pretty pleasant experience, but you really need to be diligent and ask yourself at every step what can you tidy up at that point.
  3. Cooling: A Thermal Right Peerless Assassin 120 SE fits and has plenty of clearance even with the radiator bracket. Sucking in fresh air will be challenging however.
    I mounted fans to the panels as I installed them and spent a good amount of time routing motherboard cables prior to having the side panels locked in to help with airflow and clear obstructions. I used U cable adapters for the GPU's power connectors to keep them flat and out of the way and used black electrician tape to bundle and clean up hanging connectors here and there as much as possible.
    Ultimately, I placed the PSU in the highest bracket as I wanted space for a front fan and airflow. As a result of the PSU situation, I was able to fit a 140 mm fan in the front of the case with no obstruction, as well as another fan at the bottom close to the front's fan, creating a corner intake area. I added two top 140mm fans as well and kept the case's back 120 mm fan.
  4. Future layout options: I could probably have 3 X 120 mm fans at the bottom of the case, although I'm leaning towards instead getting a PCIE riser cable to vertically mount the GPU. I think it will look nicer and give more room for the air to move diagonally. Based on my rough estimates it should not interfere with the bottom fan I already installed and CM includes an adapter to reorient the slots at the back. This layout possibility was unexpected (as I would have gotten a PCIE riser otherwise). This computer will look much nicer than I expected.
  5. Power On: Don't forget to switch on the PSU before wrapping up. That said, two screws are between you and lifting the top panel if you did forget so don't worry too much about it.
  6. Back Fan Cable: The included fan's connector cable position can interfere with the back panel's attachment (it gets squeezed in). I suggest fully routing the cable preemptively before screwing that in.
  7. Hook up all the Mobo's connectors before screwing the panels together: I suggest routing and connecting anything and everything that latches on to the Motherboard as soon as you can. I'd route the PSU cables before actually attaching the PSU to the case as well, just in case you need to plug and unplug things for cable routing purposes. Once everything is in, especially with a chonky aircooler, it's incredibly difficult to access anything on the Motherboard. Very happy I'm selling this system rather than upgrading it, lol. Accessing the GPU release thingy is a nightmare on a cheaper motherboard. If you do need to do that, remove the bottom panel completely and slide a chopstick under there to press it.
  8. Fan/RGB connectors: If you go with a Front-Bottom Pull to Top-Back Push airflow configuration, be mindful of the layout of the fan power connectors on your motherboard. You might need a fan controller. Same story with RGB connectors.

Suggestions for CM

  1. Screw screws: Given the thickness of the panels, a snap system of some kind could have been used instead of screws altogether. A screwless flatpack case... maybe a collab with Lego instead? I'd love to connect the case panels lego style via overlapping panels touch points. If you added lego style texture to different parts of the case the amount of buzz you'd get on social media from people building little worlds in their case would absolutely be worth the hassle.
  2. Side Panel Cowardice: Very disappointed that there is no left mesh side panel option and just glass. I feel the radiator bracket was included for that use case, but someone at CM chicken'ed out midway through production and here we are, with a useless bracket and a fragile glass panel.
    The glass panel stands out like a sore thumb considering the rest of the case is built like a Tank. Without that glass panel the amount of packaging and therefor the size of the flatpack itself could have been significantly shrunk down further which would have been fantastic. Really a missed opportunity here.
  3. Give me diversity or documentation (ideally both): Although I appreciate all the different configurations you present outright (air, water, test bench), making side panels interchangeable (left/right) and allowing the front panel to be reversable (top/down) so that the IO is properly oriented for a side build (with feet that can be latched to the side panel), would have been better. Is it possible? I don't know! I did not see any mention of that in the confusing documentation you provided me. If these things ARE possible, then better documentation is necessary.
  4. Simpler core design, more options: The interior motherboard tray is a bit overengineered. A simpler design could help lower the cost of the case and probably make it easier for you to make. CM could make fancy layouts still possible, by selling optional mobo trays, panels and parts that are compatible with a fundamentally simpler primary design. I think the "Qube 600 / Qube CM X Ikea / Qube CM X Lego / whatever the next iteration is going to be called" should have a much simpler design and instead feature a robust catalogue of optional panels and parts for customization.
  5. Cable free cutouts: If you insist on overengineering your interior motherboard tray, then the Qube series would be a prime candidate for some of those new "cable-free motherboards" with the cables facing backward that require special cutouts.
  6. Centre motherboard tray, flipped GPU, wait, did I just invent the Micro-Qube?: Alternatively, including a PCIE riser cable to allow the mounting of the GPU behind the motherboard tray would allow for a shorter tower and the now centred motherboard tray could provide more structural rigidity. "Bottom-Top" or "Side" airflow would be necessary but it would look killer. Maybe that could be the basis of a SFF "M-Qube" design?
  7. Your hotdog moment: If you are going to include only 1 fan. Can it be nicer? This fan does not make me want to even bother looking at CM fans for the rest of the build. If you cut corners on your case with this fan, what corners are you cutting with your case fans? Think beyond the case for a moment. If you provide consumers with a super amazing fan or two in your cases, with a fairly unique design would that not lead to consumers buying more of the same fans to match? If it's only one fan, sure, swapping that out is doable, but if you include 2 or 3 of those with each case, then swapping all those out feels wasteful. Much easier to just add to them. Especially if they perform well.
    Consider this your Costco Hotdog. Include great fans. Hell, if you want to guarantee people pick your fans, use a bigger form factor (180 mm and 200 mm) If you design them unique enough, you are basically forcing people to buy into your fan ecosystem since there's almost no competition to begin with at those sizes.
  8. Listen to the Bees: Why is the pattern of a case made by CM, a company with a hexagon as it's logo, circles rather than a grid of hexagons?
    Have you guys not received the memo? Hexagon is the bestagon.
    You need to leverage the competitive advantage you have in this area of geometry and leverage it hard. Across from me now sits the Lian Li 216. You know what I see at the back of it? Lots and lots of CM logos? Why? Because, they paid attention in geometry class and know it's the most efficient design to minimise waste in a pattern. Hexagons = better airflow. CM, wacha doin' baby. This should be YOUR thing.
    You could even integrate hexagons into your IO or better yet, integrate your IO into the hexagon design of your cases. Your case buttons are okay, but you need to do better. Go. Wild. With the motherboard cutouts of the motherboard tray, the screw heads, the included fan(s), if you can shape it like a hexagon, do it. OWN THAT SHAPE!
    I PROMISE you nobody will complain. This is a no-brainer. Come on guys...

Conclusion

Anyway, I'll be waiting for your request to sign off to you all the rights to all the good ideas I've provided you today, accompanied by a fat check or a custom made system of equal value featuring lots of hexagons. 🐝
You're welcome.
Now please go redesign the Hyper 212 Evo. ThermalRight has stolen your budget crown and you need to fire back with a dynamite value proposition...
Might I interest you in a hexagon-shaped radiator and fan setup? The CM Hexacooler? You know, to launch your new series of hexagon shaped fans. The world is ready CM, do it.
(T.L.;D.R.) Oh yeah, the case, ahem, 8/10. Better than expected, but still short from greatness.
submitted by IBoris to coolermaster [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 03:00 TheRoundTuit Smell when dishwasher running

Smell when dishwasher running
Did the plumbing myself, thought I followed general rules. Something is obviously wrong since it smells most of the time when the dishwasher is running/draining. Any ideas what I can do to improve this set up? I did have a vent installed (right after thr trap), thought it was the problem so I closed it..no difference. Drains fine btw.
submitted by TheRoundTuit to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.12 21:02 Mildly_Irritated_Max Holding Tank only, no weeping beds - filling triple speed

Holding Tank only, no weeping beds - filling triple speed
Bought a house last year, moved in late fall. Near a river, little land, no sewer system, not enough land for weeping beds so it's holding tank only, same as a lot of houses down my road. Old owners claimed every three months needing pumping. Two people. Septic guy told me they must have shit in buckets how little them pumped. I live alone, girlfriend here on weekends.
My first pump was after about a month, but I had major plumbing work done and a lot of cleaning so figured it was all that water. I tracked after that (attached). Over winter I filled a little over half an inches a day.
Now spring, I'm filling at triple that and it's increasing. Sump pump appears to drain direct to ditch, water softener to sump pump. I cut water usage to the bones the last week, not a single load of laundry, one load of dishes in dishwashers, handful of quick showers. Toilet is ultra low flow dual flush - it's high flush is the low flush amount on a normal dual flush toilet.
So the only thing I can think of is rain water ground water getting into it via the concrete tank. The ground is saturated been raining constantly. But would that mean the tank is trash? The owners had copies of the install, permits, etc about 10 years ago available for viewing when I bought it but I did not get copies after purchase & I had to sue them for repairs to shit I found destroyed when I moved in, and settled because they were leaving the country so it was the only way I could get some return. Going to them for records is not an option.
Is this normal for a wet spring and I just need to adjust my budget, or is something wrong I need to investigate?
submitted by Mildly_Irritated_Max to septictanks [link] [comments]


2024.05.12 18:42 spunchy M&B 2024 Warsaw 1: Why Is Money Difficult?

M&B 2024 Warsaw 1: Why Is Money Difficult?
For our schedule and links to other discussions, see the Money and Banking 2024 master post.
This is the discussion thread for Economics of Money and Banking Warsaw Lecture 1: Why Is Money Difficult?
Ideally, we want the plumbing of money and banking to operate smoothly behind the scenes. But only through awareness of that plumbing and its mechanics can we begin to explain what happens when the plumbing breaks. When ignoring the machinery of money and banking, we may be able to devise somewhat reasonable models for how the economy works in normal times, but we won't be able to explain financial crises.
This lecture provides motivation for learning the Money View and calls attention to intellectual/psychological hurdles that people often need to overcome when trying to understand money and banking.
NOTE: The audio in this lecture only plays over the left channel. I recommend downmixing to mono in your computer's audio settings, so it doesn't distract you.
The slides are not always visible in the recording. I've included their content below.

Liquidity

Drawing theory from banking practice, the Money View emphasizes the central role of liquidity. The liquidity of an economic entity (individual, household, firm, government, etc.) is its ability to meet payment commitments as they come due. Failing to settle payment commitments means defaulting on debt. Firms—banks, in particular—that fail to meet their commitments won't stay in business for very long.
"Liquidity kills you quick." —Perry Mehrling
We can divide liquidity into three categories based on the source of money (settlement funds):
  1. Monetary liquidity — the ability to spend money in your possession.
  2. Funding liquidity — the ability to borrow money.
  3. Market liquidity — the ability to sell assets for money.
Funding liquidity and market liquidity depend partly on the general state of the market. To sell an asset or borrow money, you need someone else—a counterparty—to buy your asset or lend you the money. If the market dries up, the counterparties disappear.
Monetary liquidity is the only type of liquidity that requires no counterparty. You can always spend money that you already have. A large enough reserve of money ensures that you'll be able to meet immediate payment obligations, even in times of adversity.

Slide 2: Many Faces of the Global Financial Crisis (1:32 – 7:24)

  • Crisis of risk management system
    • Private: Microprudential, Value At Risk, Basel
    • Public: Macroeconomic Stabilization, Inflation Target
  • Crisis of political economy
    • Central Bank and Wall Street (US)
    • Central Bank and State Treasury (Europe)
    • Central Bank Cooperation (Global)
  • Crisis of global liquidity system
    • Funding Liquidity—Lender of Last Resort
    • Market Liquidity—Dealer of Last Resort
Mehrling opens with the 2007–2008 Global Financial Crisis (GFC). As with the Great Depression of the 1930s and the "stagflation" of the 1970s, I imagine that economists will continue to revisit the GFC for decades to come. There's a lot to unpack.
The GFC challenged the idea that we could prevent financial crises either by getting individual entities to manage their risk better or by attempting to stabilize the system as a whole.
We can understand the GFC as a liquidity event in the global dollar system. Entities became unable to meet their payment commitments. Both funding liquidity and market liquidity dried up. As a result, we learned that backstopping funding liquidity alone (lender of last resort) is not enough. Market liquidity needs a backstop too (dealer of last resort).

Slide 3: From Lender-of-Last-Resort to Dealer-of-Last-Resort (7:24 – 11:22)

https://preview.redd.it/pagb13mdv00d1.png?width=460&format=png&auto=webp&s=07c8c5b1694ba0cd038e33909ba08825c3e767f9
In this visualization of the Fed's balance sheet, assets are on the top, and liabilities on the bottom. Starting in 2008, the balance sheet of the Fed expanded rapidly. It added huge amounts to both its assets and liabilities. And that balance sheet has never returned to the way it was before the crisis.
Starting with this crisis, the Fed backstopped asset markets directly. Being a lender of last resort means prmosing to lend at a high interest rate to those who need it money. Being a dealer of last resort means promising to buy at a fairly low price from anyone who wants to sell.

Slide 4: From Domestic to International Lender-of-Last-Resort (11:22 – 13:33)

https://preview.redd.it/g56uck0gv00d1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=08c9e124856a0f9195b81384cf5a07d9edd928dd
We might normally expect arbitrage to eliminate price differences. When that doesn't happen, it's a sign that something is wrong. In 2008, something was preventing people from borrowing dollars in the domestic money market and lending them off-shore (as Eurodollars).
In 2008, the central banks prevented another great depression by supporting the global system.

Slide 5: The (Fatal) Abstractions of Modern Economic Thinking (13:33 – 14:21)

  • Representative Agent
  • Intertemporal Equilibrium
  • Monetary Veil (Neutrality)
  • Legal Foundations
  • Market Microstructure
Liquidity
Standard economics abstracts from money and liquidity. But this means that standard economics won't have much to say about what happens when there's a crisis in the "monetary plumbing."

Slide 6: The Money View (14:21 – 15:45)

  • Banking as a Payments System
    • Copeland (1952): A Moneyflow Economy
    • Minsky (1957): The Survival Constraint
  • Banking as a Market Making System
    • Hawtrey (1919): Hierarchy of Money and Credit
    • Hicks (1989): Centrality of the Dealer Function
    • Bagehot (1873): Dealer of Last Resort
These two pillars of the Money View both concern liquidity. Viewing banking as a payments system emphasizes what happens when you run out of liquidity: you can't make a payment you promised to make. Viewing banking as a market-making system emphasizes where liquidity comes from in the first place: dealers—including banks—supply liquidity to the system by making markets. A breakdown in market-making puts strain on the payments system and causes payment commitments to go unfulfilled.

Why Is Money Difficult?

Slide 7 (15:45 – 17:21)

Why is it so difficult for me to learn this and figure this out? Why did it take me so long? I don't think I'm stupid.
—Lecture
Understanding money means unlearning some of the ways of thinking that economics tends to encourage.

Slide 8: I. Alchemy (17:21 – 18:20)

https://preview.redd.it/4ybe2dvkv00d1.png?width=648&format=png&auto=webp&s=4ac9d9f4f3f78b3246988358ff7197406d2c26a3
  • Banking is a swap of IOUs
Lecture 1 of the MOOC will properly introduce us to balance-sheet notation. The above diagram shows that, at the moment of loan origination, the bank and the borrower (me) are both promising each other money. It is a mutual obligation in which two promises being made:
  1. The loan is the liability of the borrower and an asset to the bank.
  2. The deposit is the liability of the bank and an asset to the borrower.
We can visualize the same transaction with arrows representing the payments.
https://preview.redd.it/4y5rz41qv00d1.png?width=338&format=png&auto=webp&s=d4a7b6ce64a33ad9b9a253354c21dd2b4f7e6cbd
Here, it is more clear that the bank and the borrower are both paying each other. The green color represents "payment by issuance." The bank issues deposits to pay the borrower. The borrower issues the loan to pay the bank.
Once the loan has been originated, the bank is holding the loan and the borrower is holding deposits in the bank.
https://preview.redd.it/kq4uh3ctv00d1.png?width=338&format=png&auto=webp&s=423cfec8adcbbfe3534d182662c4810c7fe6f52f
I shade the deposits purple to show that the deposits are money to the entity holding them as an asset. The loan is not. The borrower has swapped his own newly issued non-money liability for the newly issued liability of the bank, which is money.
On the balance sheet of the bank, the deposits fund the loan. At least initially, the borrower, by holding deposits in the bank, is indirectly funding his own loan. The bank is intermediating between a depositor and a borrower. The depositor and the borrower just happen to be the same entity. It is as if the borrower deposited cash in the bank and then borrowed the cash back from the bank.
https://preview.redd.it/27ukhv5wv00d1.png?width=762&format=png&auto=webp&s=36acdec075421c1bab9b3baf14b42191943b08fe
The cash is yellow to show "payment by assignment." The cash asset is merely being transferred from one balance sheet to another. But these notional cash flows net out, meaning that no cash actually needs to flow. And if no cash needs to flow, then no cash needs to exist to make this loan possible.

Slide 9: Psychological Barrier (18:20 – 20:32)

  • Fetish of the "Real": What is being "loaned"?
    • Fraud?
  • Free lunch resistance: Something from nothing?
  • "Inside" or credit character of money, versus "outside" personal experience of money
The normal language view of a loan is that I can't lend you a bicycle unless I have a bicycle. If I lend you something I don't own, that's illegal or fraud or something. It's a problem. How can you lend something that you don't own.
—Lecture
You can promise something you don't own, as long as you can reliably get the thing being promised. The key insight about money is that it's possible for a promise for money to be money.
In his History of Economic Analysis (1954), Joseph Schumpeter said, “You cannot ride on a claim to a horse, but you can pay with a claim to money.” (p. 305)

Slide 10: II. Hybridity (20:32 – 22:11)

  • Money Supply, Public and Private
https://preview.redd.it/nqp5kydyv00d1.png?width=448&format=png&auto=webp&s=a9f9e7c55946ebd760346550e31d09605907726b
  • Central Bank, Government Bank and Bankers' Bank
https://preview.redd.it/wfj3azy1w00d1.png?width=355&format=png&auto=webp&s=bbd880beaa100a64d2a54f9a5b880cbcea99355b
Currency (public money) and deposits (private money) trade at par. That means, they're exchangeable one for one.

Slide 11: Political Barrier (22:11 – 25:37)

  • Left: Chartalism, Knapp, Modern Monetary Theory (MMT)
    • Money as creation of the state, "authority"
  • Right: Metallism, Menger, Austrian
    • Money as creation of the marketplace, "trust
  • Symbiosis: as lichen, algae + fungi
The system is hybrid. It's public and private. Each one adds something, and they mutually support each other. It's a symbiotic system. It's not that one is illegitimate and the other one is legitimate, and that we have to decide which one is legitimate and get rid of the other one. We have to manage a system that has both features, in which the liabilities of private banking and the liabilities of public banking trade at par. How do they trade at par? What makes them trade at par? And when there's stress on the system, that par is under pressure.
—Lecture

Slide 12: III. Hierarchy (25:37 – 26:32)

https://preview.redd.it/po5tezy4w00d1.png?width=473&format=png&auto=webp&s=af604420981962b8a57a8d335f68d1c697beb822

Slide 13: Ideological Barrier (26:32 – 29:28)

  • Economic ideology: men are equal, but liabilities of men unequal
  • Westphalian ideology: sovereigns are equal, but liabilities of sovereigns unequal
  • Credit as promise to pay money; money as the highest form of credit

Slide 14: IV. Instability (29:28 – 31:28)

https://preview.redd.it/6577s3x6w00d1.png?width=397&format=png&auto=webp&s=25a25a304d1221f58893ca350fae5b2dc3b94343
Things that look like credit in bad times begin to have more money-like features. It becomes much easier to spend them, and people accept them as means of payment in a boom. And then, in a bust: the reverse. The hierarchy reasserts itself. The system shrinks. The difference between money at the top and money at the bottom becomes wider.
—Lecture

Slide 15: Equilibrium Barrier (31:28 – 33:11)

  • Prices "clear" markets, and time is just an additional dimension of commodity space
  • Instability comes from outside, exogenous shocks absorbed through price flexibility
  • Incipient incoherence between cash flows and cash commitments absorbed by balance sheet expansion higher up in the hierarchy.
The system as a whole never settles into a stable equilibrium because credit is inherently unstable.

A Moneyflow Economy

Slide 16 (33:11 – 33:28)

Slide 17: Settlement as Coherence (33:28 – 38:04)

"The web of interlocking debt commitments, each one a more or less rash promise about an uncertain future, is like a bridge that we collectively spin out into the unknown future toward shores not yet visible. It is in the daily operation of the money market that the coherence of the credit system, that vast web of promises to pay, is tested and resolved as cash flows meet cash commitments." (New Lombard Street, p.3)
The quintessential banking problem is meeting liquidity needs. Cash commitments and cash flows. It's not a budget constraint.
—Lecture

Slide 18: "like a bridge we spin..." (38:04 – 39:27)

Our imagination of the future determines our decisions in the present. But we're sometimes wrong.
That's what financial crises are like. That's what they're about. You're building in a certain direction, imagining a certain future, and everyone's onboard, and they think that's the future. And then it turns out no. We were wrong.
—Lecture

Slide 19: Hierarchy of Dealers, Prices of Money (39:27 – 43:20)

https://preview.redd.it/meo9c879w00d1.png?width=402&format=png&auto=webp&s=4b309e47a4ce00a4a6f0a882e1047e6c86da53a3
We think about supply and demand, and you don't think about the dealer in the middle, bridging supply and demand.
—Lecture

Financial Globalization and Shadow Banking

Slide 20 (43:20 – 46:35)

This is just not the way the world is. It's not a collection of nation-states. It's a global system. And each central bank is part of this hierarchy. It's not flat. It's hierarchical, the system. And it's a global system. And the natural form of banking for a global system is shadow banking.
—Lecture
Shadow Banking, also known as market-based finance, is "money market funding of capital market lending."

Slide 21: International Hierarchy of Money (46:35 – 48:25)

https://preview.redd.it/ukieu6dbw00d1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=7b30f3fb90a7b40999cb0217ce8762eb05c18ebb
The world looks different and works differently depending on where in the global hierarchy you happen to be.

Slide 22: Breaking Free of the Triple Coincidence (BIS #524) (48:25 – 51:57)

https://preview.redd.it/hq4gb80dw00d1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=39474a50a588360706762b2ee71b00d0b7520edc
The economy is fundamentally global. It is not a collection of individual nation-states knit together. Yet we often treat it that way when analyzing the economy or taking statistics. The "triple coincidence" refers to the idea that the GDP area, the political decision-making unit, and the currency area all match each other. Our statistics tend to take the triple coincidence for granted, but there's no general reason why it should be true.
The dollar, in particular, is a global currency. Most dollar action happens outside of the United States. Depending on where the banks happen to be located, otherwise equivalent states of the world can produce very different statistical measurements.
It's a global system, and the global currency is the dollar. And it's a private dollar. It's the liabilities of banks, not the liability of the central bank.
—Lecture

Slide 23: Hierarchy of Alchemy (51:57 – 54:23)

https://preview.redd.it/2p9hedvfw00d1.png?width=446&format=png&auto=webp&s=86d53c8e1bbccf5a95556b9baf425a88012a7330
At each layer of the international hierarchy, we can see the same kind of swap-of-IOUs alchemy in action.

Slide 24: Payment Versus Funding, I (54:23 – 1:01:42)

https://preview.redd.it/t4ejq9ylw00d1.png?width=928&format=png&auto=webp&s=3ac1bc57bf4102638e1d84072d48e0b8b789d700
  • Purchase of house facilitated by "alchemy," seller funding and interbank borrowing, in the first instance
Above, I have renamed "Fed Funds" to "Money Market," because "Fed Funds" is just what we call the money market when it's being used by particular entities. I have also combined Mehrling's stage 2 and 3 to emphasize that the money-market funding is what allows the deposit to move in the first place. The seller's bank (your bank) won't take on a deposit liability without an asset to match. And that's what the money-market funding is.
The transfer of the deposit from the buyer's bank to the seller's bank is shaded blue. This is to denote "payment by novation." One bank is paying another by taking on the other bank's liability.
As we saw before with the swap of IOUs, the buyer of the house (me) initially funds his own loan by holding deposits in the bank. But he borrowed those deposits to use to purchase the house from the seller (you). The seller ends up with the deposits.
https://preview.redd.it/28vfgfcpw00d1.png?width=339&format=png&auto=webp&s=3d662197fd501cefa82dcb0db1de1eb6bdb7e573
After the home has been purchased, the mortgage loan is ultimately being funded by the seller of the house. The seller holds deposits in his bank. The seller's bank provides money-market funding to the buyer's bank. And the buyer's bank provides the loan to the buyer.
https://preview.redd.it/ftyp74etw00d1.png?width=338&format=png&auto=webp&s=edbd85d69e98f86f0f9e91281aad2f7533161cef
We can also split the second step into two parts to separate the interbank payment from the money-market funding of the deficit position. To make the balance sheets work out, we can add in the reserves that Mehrling left out.
https://preview.redd.it/lht6w0yww00d1.png?width=928&format=png&auto=webp&s=fd405638fa0c9e556209f8064e4cd5c83c747756
This version uses money reserves to grease the wheels of the trade, but the reserves just end up back where they started.

Slide 25: Payment Versus Funding IIa (1:01:42 – 1:04:53)

https://preview.redd.it/w1z11vwax00d1.png?width=932&format=png&auto=webp&s=48669f9bc4e26d31a11a2426c168711a9575fbc9
  • Final funding of loan facilitated by money destruction, larger society funding
In step three, the deposit and the money-market funding cancel each other out. There is a mutual release of liabilities. This is the opposite of the mutual obligation we get from a swap of IOUs. The payments are shaded red to denote "payment by set-off." One entity pays another by canceling a debt owed.
Here is the same set of transactions, but using payment arrows.
https://preview.redd.it/6weyhr6kx00d1.png?width=339&format=png&auto=webp&s=a424a89e88dc0d9e19241f96dc38017204b8db64
From the perspective of "society," they're holding an annuity as an asset instead of money. Money has been "destroyed."

Slide 26: Payment Versus Funding IIb (1:04:53 – 1:06:52)

  • Final funding of the loan facilitated by shadow banking, society funding
Now, the loan is funded in the money market. Unlike with the annuity, which is locked in, the ultimate funding has to be perpetually rolled over.

Slide 27: Crisis and Prices (1:06:52 – 1:07:00)

Now we have some context for this slide we saw at the beginning (Slide 4). The price of money-market funding is being bid up.

Slide 28: Crisis and Balance Sheets (1:07:00 – 1:08:01)

And we understand Slide 3 now, too. The Fed took the shadow-banking system on to its own balance sheet. It became a dealer (or market-maker) of last resort.

Slide 29: System Dynamics and Thought Dynamics (1:08:01 – 1:15:02)

  • Elasticity of Credit vs. Discipline of Money
    • Banking School vs. Currency School
  • Bankers' bank vs. Government Bank
    • Peace finance vs. War (Development) finance
  • Bank credit vs. Market Credit
    • Montary economics vs. Financial economics
  • Core vs. Periphery
    • Global finance vs. National finance
The system we're trying to understand is in constant motion, and it's changing. Sometimes, it's moving and it's in a boom phase–it's the elasticity of credit. Sometimes, it's in a discipline phase–it's the discipline of money. Sometimes, there's wars and it's all public money–it's all government finance. Sometimes, there's peace, and it's all private finance. Sometimes, all the action is in the periphery. Sometimes, all the action is in the core of the system.
—Lecture
System dynamics and thought dynamics are intertwined. The evolution of monetary thought comes along with the evolution of the system as a whole.
—Lecture
Today's globalized world is, in some ways, more like the gold-standard world of the late 1800s than it is like the post-World War II era.

Slide 30: Inflation? (1:15:02 – 1:19:15)

  • Goods prices, the fourth price of money, a work in progress
  • Formed by market-makers in primary commodities: oil, wheat
    • Spot vs. forward, storage public and private
    • Tax-based Incomes Policy?
  • Labor as primary commodity
    • Reserve army of the unemployed
    • Job Guarantee as buffer stock?
  • Economics of the Dealer Function
This lecture was seven years ago. In 2024, Mehrling is still working on his theory of inflation. Here's a recording of a talk he gave in February.
Please post any questions and comments below. We will have a one-hour live discussion of Warsaw Lecture 1 on Monday, May 13th, at 2:00pm EDT.
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2024.05.12 17:17 common_app How to connect Kenmore dishwasher outlet hose?

How to connect Kenmore dishwasher outlet hose?
Hello! My in-laws have a Kenmore dishwasher that works and is connected to water. The only thing that isn’t connected is the drainage hose from the machine.
I’m not much of a handyman, but I’ve been drafted in to help them out.
I was wondering what sort of plumbing connections are needed to connect the dishwasher’s drainage hose to the drain of their sink. Attached is a photo of the underside of the sink.
submitted by common_app to Appliances [link] [comments]


2024.05.12 17:06 LaVolpe04630 Questions on attaching a wall in a shipping container

My wife and I are turning a 40' shipping container into a barn for her to raise rabbits in. Our next big project is going to be building a wall in the entry way of the container so that we can have the doors open and keep any loose or escaped bunnies in.
I am planning on framing the wall inset 5' from the doors to allow for a workspace (sink and tool storage). I've got a fair idea of how I'm going to put it all together and I've got the measurements and a materials list. My only hangup is keeping the wall up when it's put together.
How should I go about attaching the framed wall to the container? The floor of the container is thin plywood and the walls and roof are steel. The roof if around 9' tall, so I plan to build a riser to close the gap. Should I screw the 2x4's to the walls and roof?
(Diagram attached for reference)
submitted by LaVolpe04630 to Diyadvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.12 13:03 BimmerM60 New Washer Hoses - Chemically Taste

New Washer Hoses - Chemically Taste
Hi all,
To preface, I am by no means a plumber, though I do have a fair amount of appliance experience.
The situation - I recently moved (UK) and reconnected a dishwasher and the FLW we brought to the home. The washer needed a longer fill hose so I bought a new one and replaced the existing dishwasher hose with some from Toolstation (see photo).
The issue - After opening the water supply to the washer, the tap water had quite a chemical taste to it. It went away once I closed the valve. The existing valve seems to be either a straight valve or a non-return/check valve that is faulty, I plan on replacing both with a new non-return.
The question(s)
  1. Do the connections seem fine based on the photo - any glaring issues from however the previous owner had it plumbed in?
  2. Is the ‘taste’ simply due to a new hose and is it fine to keep the existing valves or will it dissipate soon?
  3. Is the best option to replace both with a non-return valve as planned and call it a day?
Side note: Both the tap and lines are slowly leaking and I plan on replacing both as well.
Thanks all in advance for your input!
submitted by BimmerM60 to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.11 17:56 immortal-fluorine Outdoor BBQ gas line question

Hi all,
I currently have an outdoor natural gas line for a grill (15-17 feet, underground stubbed from the house external wall with a valve). It has failed at one of the 90's and needs to be replaced (it has a mix of wrapped black iron with green-color PVC, seems in bad shape overall). The stub-out from the house is 1/2" pipe.
I have reached out to local companies, however for various considerations, I am not comfortable proceeding with their bids.
I am thinking on doing the home-flex poli system myself (seems like best bet for underground applications).
However, it seems their risers for 1/2" MIP side are quite scarce/non-existent and instead they have 1/2" poli with 3/4" MIP. Would it be an acceptable practice to install those risers with reducers to bring it back down to 1/2" at the house connection and/or at the BBQ end (where a valve with a quick-disconnect will be installed) - or should one just install 3/4" down to the BBQ - provided the 1/2" can still deliver the BTU required for the appliance (effectively upsizing the pipe, but not to deliver more BTUs, just to get the parts). My inexperienced interpretation of the California plumbing code did not yield any conclusive answers.
Anticipating questions:
Thank you in advance.
submitted by immortal-fluorine to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.11 11:30 Key-Decision-9394 The Ultimate Home Maintenance Service Checklist: 15 Essential Tasks

The Ultimate Home Maintenance Service Checklist: 15 Essential Tasks

Introduction

Having a house is a basic long-term theory, and staying aware of it is vital for preserving its worth and ensuring its life expectancy. As a home loan holder, it's essential to be consistent over ordinary home upkeep tasks to keep your property in ideal condition. To help you focus on and deal with these obligations, Woodside Group presents "Building Maintenance Services," framing 15 fundamental errands to keep your home in top shape.
https://preview.redd.it/22ynhd5gorzc1.jpg?width=500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=640882cc40e0122c79d0ae1dfa97bc22744e4051
1. Inspect and Clean Gutters and Downspouts
Stopped-up drains can cause water damage, so it's crucial to assess and clean them consistently to forestall blockages and possible flooding.
2. Check and Service HVAC Systems
The routine upkeep of your heating, ventilation, and cooling (central air) frameworks guarantees effective activity but can also reduce their life expectancy.
3. Test Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Locators
Security ought to be a main concern in every home, so make certain to test and supplant the batteries in your smoke and carbon monoxide identifiers according to the situation.
4. Inspect for Leaks and Water Damage
Routinely review your home for any indications of breaks or water harm, resolving any issues instantly to forestall primary harm and shape development.
5. Clean and Keep up with Apparatuses
Customary cleaning and support of apparatuses like fridges, dishwashers, and clothes washers can help forestall breakdowns and extend their life expectancy.
6. Check and Seal Windows and Doors
Investigating and fixing holes around windows and entryways can further develop energy proficiency and upgrade the solace of your home.
7. Investigate and Clean the Chimney stack and Chimney
For homes with a chimney, customary review and cleaning of the stack and Chimney are fundamental for well-being and legitimate working.
8. Test and Maintain Plumbing
Constantly checking for spills, assessing pipes, and keeping up with the pipe framework can help forestall expensive issues.
9. Check and Keep up with Outside Spaces
Keeping up with your outdoor spaces, including yard care, managing trees, and cleaning decks and porches, improves your home's allure and pleasure.
10. Review and Keep up with Rooftop
Standard investigations and support of the rooftop help recognize and resolve any issues before they become serious, broadening your rooftop's existence.
11. Service and Maintain Electrical Systems
Ensuring that your electrical frameworks comply with code and are appropriately maintained is significant for the security and usefulness of your home.
12. Clean and Keep up with Channels
Consistently cleaning and keeping up with your channels can forestall stops and guarantee legitimate seepage throughout your home.
13. Inspect and Maintain Attic and Basement
Consistently checking and keeping up with these areas can forestall dampness development, form development, and potential irritation perversions.
14. Paint and Seal Exterior
Routinely painting and fixing the outside of your home improves its appearance and safeguards it from the elements.
15. Check and Maintain Insulation
Appropriate protection is fundamental for energy proficiency and home solace, so standard examinations and upkeep are urgent.
Conclusion
Following Woodside Group "A definitive home maintenance service," you can keep steady over fundamental errands to keep your home in superb condition. Regular home upkeep protects the worth of your property and guarantees a protected, agreeable, and charming living climate for yourself and your loved ones. Integrating these 15 fundamental undertakings into your home support routine will give genuine serenity and long-haul benefits into the indefinite future.
submitted by Key-Decision-9394 to u/Key-Decision-9394 [link] [comments]


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