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The Traverse City Desk, built on the Vertex Pro TC4 frame

Introducing the next frame in the Vertex line…?: The Vertex Pro TC4

The Vertex Pro TC4 frame is based on the rock solid Vertex Pro 4-Leg base that achieves unmatched stability by combining the benefits of traditional 4-Leg and T frame bases. The Vertex Pro TC4 takes this hybrid approach to the next level by shifting the legs back to the traditional T and C frame positions, retaining the stability of a 4-leg frame, while providing more room in the front under the desktop for accessories and your legs when seated.

Introducing the next Deskhaus Michigan Edition desk…?: The Traverse City Desk

The Traverse City desk is built on the Vertex Pro TC4 base. To that, we add a gorgeous 32”x78”, 1 1/4” thick Sapele top from central PA. With the Michigan made frame, Pennsylvania made top, and German made lift system, this is the most American - and least Chinese - made product you’ll find.
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The belly of the beast

Disclaimers

Before we go any further, I should clarify a few things:

1. The TC4 thing is pure fan non-fiction. It’s a couple of mods I made myself and not an official Deskhaus offering so don’t bug Chris to get one. Or maybe do. He told me OMT said they’d make the feet and brackets if he ordered 1,000 of them.
2. This is NOT an economy build.
3. This is neither a quick nor an easy build.
4. Should you choose to try anything you see here, your mileage may vary, prices are a year and a half old, and all risk to whatever you cut - metal, wood, yourself, whatever - is yours.

BTW, I have no relationship with Deskhaus other than being a very happy, fully paying customer (as in, not a shill!).
Oh, and one more thing, this is a really long post. So the TL;DR crowd can move along now.
Those who tend to over rotate, especially on standing desks - and really, really if you’re trying to figure out screw inserts or holding up a heavy monitor or wire management - there’s probably something in here for you, so put on a pot and settle in; we’re gonna be a while…

What I had

My old desk was a boxy, immovable, L-shaped monster covered with stuff, including two MacBooks, an ethernet switch, two UPSes, a DirecTV tuner, an AppleTV, a 50” TV, and a bunch of HDMI gear and cables. I could do another long post just on the HDMI setup. For now, I’ll say the desk design had to accommodate a 4x1 matrix/multiviewer, a 4x2 switch, two 1x2 splitters and all of the cables between everything listed here. Lots of cables… And I hate messy, tangled cables.
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What you see here is painfully cramped space… and lots of cables.

What I wanted

My journey to a sit-stand desk started in late 2020 and got serious in the Spring of 2021 when a bonus at work provided the funds.
I started looking around and… well, here’s my first DM to Chris:

I’ve been on a quest for a sit-stand desk for the past few months that’s led me to you and Deskhaus. It went something like: Wirecutter->Uplift V2 Standard vs Commercial->YouTube->BTOD and the Wobblemeter->the recognition that they’re reviewing competitors’ products just to promote their own.
Then I find you and Crown tests, just shaking shit to see what’s really happening and showing us what you know about the industry. I really like that you’re committed to sourcing domestically and locally, especially now [at the height of the pandemic lockdown]. And as an Amazon Prime member, I’ve already bought way too much cheap Chinese stuff.
My priorities are stability, made in USA, and room for accessories under the desktop, in the front. The Vertex Pro 4-Leg is almost perfect, especially with the “knee saver” mini beams, but still not quite.
I’m working on an idea that might get me all I’m looking for but I need some info to be sure….

True to brand, Chris was more than awesome about getting me the info I needed - pictures of measurements, several texts and DMs, and even a couple of FaceTime calls. What followed from that is this build.
It’s all about the video
This build was about the video. There were other factors, but in the end it had to put the TV and MacBooks front and center, while getting them and all of the supporting appliances and electronics off the desk. So that meant lots of stuff to go underneath. And did I mention all of the cables for all of them?
It’s all about the space in front
I was losing a lot of drawer space and was committed to not let clutter accumulate on the desktop. That meant the new desk needed some drawers and space for work in progress papers under the desk and up front. I hate banging my knees, so they had to be low profile - no more than 2” deep for anything in the center third of the desktop within 12” of the front. I also wanted to keep space for maybe adding a sliding keyboard tray.
It’s all about the wire management
More than anything else, this build was about the wire management. Oh, the video? And all the stuff underneath? And room in the front? Well yeah, all of that made for a lot of cables, all bunched up in the back. And did I mention I hate messy, tangled cables?
So making the video and the space and the stuff work, became making the wire management work. The placement of nearly every component in the design - including the final configuration of the frame itself - was driven, in one way or another, by the wire management.
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What you see there is that TC4 frame…. and no cables.

The designs - so many designs

The first objective was to get the frame as far back on a 30, 32, or 34 inch desktop as possible, while still leaving room to clamp monitor arms and power strips along the back.
The main challenges were:

• Position of accessories up front. The items in the front found their spots pretty early and mostly stayed in them. Those then became constraints on other things.
• Position of UPSes. More on that later.
• Servicing the outlet of cables anywhere along the back. Shout out to u/3lfk1ng for his awesome build and making me obsessed with matching it, both in his use of wire duct in this regard and in hiding power distribution. (Hey 3lfk1ng, If you squint real hard you can see the webstaurant V-channels in some of the 30” designs.)
• Room to clamp accessories along the back.
• Placement of the HDMI matrix and switch. Many of the designs were tortured to put these along the front edge for access to their buttons due to several IR remote conflicts with the TV and DirecTV signals. Mounting the remotes for the matrix and switch on a “control panel,” hidden away from the TV and DirecTV sensors, enabled me to move the HDMI devices to the back and use a dual emitter IR repeater to feed them. The DirecTV receiver under the desk also got its own IR repeater with the sensor mounted on the TV.

All of this led to several variations in the placement of the Vertex Pro’s short “knee saver” J-channels, using different desktop sizes, with several designs for accessories and wire ducts around each frame and desktop configuration.
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Earlier designs are top down, as if through a glass table so I could visualize how I’d use them. I flipped later designs to be as viewed from underneath as they got closer to being used as a guide for construction.
The final design fell into place with:

• Frame design “D,” putting the short “knee saver” J-channels on the front face of all of the legs, creating space for the stuff up front that extends between the front legs and space for the guts of the desk between the back legs side to side and the full length J-channels front to back.
• Panduit wire ducts. More on those later…
• The low profile UPS units with the outlets on the side. More on those later…
• Moving the optional side brackets that came with the Uplift Slim Under Desk Drawer to the Uplift Compact Desk Drawer. This created the space above the Compact Desk Drawer for the “control panel” to hold the HDMI matrix and switch remote controls. It also created just enough space for the DirecTV coax input to extend into - still unseen - to get the receiver right against the drawer.

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And that’s pretty much what it looks like as built (without the words and numbers, of course).

The mods

The feet
The heart of the original concept and the really big mod was to cut 6 1/2” off the back of a 35” (34 1/2”, really) foot so the frame could be pushed back on the desktop without the back of the foot sticking out to be a tripping hazard or block placement against a wall. This is only possible because the Vertex-Pro foot is a perfectly flat, smooth plate of monster steel welded to an equally straight, heavy gage u-channel below.
The next thing was to get the glide I’d cut off the back of the foot back on it. For that, I used a rivet nut - a remarkable fastener I’d never heard of before and couldn’t have done this without.
I rented the Kinswood “Demolition Hammer” from my local Ace Hardware store. I probably could have done these cuts with a hack saw but I’d never have gotten them so straight and square. And it still took hours to make these cuts because the steel is so thick.
The top
The final design also required cutting 1 3/4” off the back ends of the top side brackets of the frame.
The TC4 frame
This gives us a 28” foot that, when added to the legs and top brackets mounted flush to (really inset 1/8” from) the back edge of the desktop:

• Places the back of the foot - now just 4” long - safely 1/2” inside the back of the desktop.
• Centers the front leg right at the front to back centerline of the desktop - like a T-frame.
• Centers the back leg 6 1/2” from the back - like a C-frame.
• Puts the 10 1/2” front of the foot 12 1/2” from the desktop centerline, an ample 3 1/2” from the front edge of the desktop. This longer “toe” supports the cantilever of the offset desktop, forming that familiar C-frame shape.

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You know it’s gettin real when the tool of choice is called a “Demolition Hammer”

Other key innovations

I can’t claim that I’m the only one to think of these things, but after countless hours scouring the net, I hadn’t seen them anywhere else. Here’s a couple of other novel ideas in my design that you may find useful for your build:
A plywood faux top for zero holes in the desktop
That’s zero, as in not a single one. As in, after 10 years of scratches and wear, I can flip the top over and start with the same top like new. I can also move the desk or reconfigure accessories or the frame whenever needed, whatever, with no impact to the actual desktop.
I’ve seen a lot of posts from folks talking about screw inserts to mitigate reassembly issues and thought it was all a bit much - just screw in your screws. Then I paid almost a grand for a desktop and saw how beautiful it was and suddenly I understood. Then I couldn’t bear to even drill holes for the inserts.
After realizing that A) these tops are really heavy, and B) I was going to use major clamps on monitor mounts and other accessories, I thought, “Why not just drill all of the holes into a plywood top, mount everything there and clamp the desktop to that?” So that’s what I did.
Once I was working with a plywood top, instead of inserts, I could just drill straight through and use relatively inexpensive T-nuts for bolts rather than screws.
To protect the bottom surface of the desktop from dents and scratches from the T-nuts and the plywood surface, I sandwiched an ultra-thin no-slip carpet pad made of felt and latex between the tops. This also greatly increases the grip between the two wood surfaces.
I used 11/32” plywood, which does sag a bit more than 1/4” in the center front. I put a couple of tapered shelving brackets on either side of the keyboard track space, pressed against the frontmost full length J-channel. That eliminated some, but not all, of the sag. I used a couple of headphone hooks at the outer quarter points along the front to get rid of nearly all of what remained.
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I cannot even imagine drilling all 85 of those holes into that top.
Support a TV with two low cost monitor arms for no wobble or morning tilt.
I’ve read many posts, reviews, and comments from folks trying to support a large display on a monitor arm. These often include complaints about arms not holding the monitor up, the monitor tilting down over time, or the adjustments having to be set so tight the position can’t be changed. And of course, there’s the wobble. I’ve read many replies that rightly explain that the wobble is basic physics - mostly due to having a single point of contact with the desk.
So, I thought, the obvious answer is two points of contact with the desk. I’ve seen monitor mounts with two arms and one clamp, but none the other way around. So I made one - or rather combined two to hold up one 50” TV, with the added benefit of two points of contact at the TV.
Central to this is a VESA mount designed to attach a mini-PC to the back of a monitor. It has a 100mm VESA hole pattern for the monitor on one side and another for the mini-PC on the other side. It all came together when I found a product that was a perfectly flat plate on one side, enabling two to be sandwiched together, along with an also perfectly flat 100 to 200 mm VESA adapter needed to match the hole pattern on the TV. They all had to be flat to create a contact patch across each full area of overlap between the plates and the TV so they would work as a single unit to eliminate yet another set of small points of contact that could flex and introduce movement. The mini-PC mounts had dimpled threads on the other side that had to be turned outward, where they fit perfectly inside the 100mm hole pattern of the monitor arm VESA mounts.
The two arms articulate well together to move the TV up and down and in and out, which are the directions I need. Using two arms cuts the resistance needed in any of the joints in half, so the adjustments are comfortably within their normal range, keeping the TV in any position it’s placed with no drift for any period it’s been left, which has been as long as several months. It also helps that the TV I used is only 35 pounds. The result is a 50” TV that’s rock solid in terms of wobble. Of course, it does shake if I pound the desk hard but less than the laptops do on their arm-mounted trays. And it’s absolutely motionless as I type, write, lean, whatever.
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It’s about making the physics work FOR you.

Done before but not quite like this

There are a couple of things I did that have been done before, but I think are done here in a novel way or with a major twist.
Dual, low profile UPSes - with outlets on the side and plugs inside the wire duct
I wanted the plugs covered. That meant having them inside the wire ducts. The 2.76” high Cyberpower SL700U with plugs on the side fit the bill perfectly. The required number of outlets dictated using two units. Having enough space in front to get plugs in and out while having minimum bend radius for thick cords meant the wire ducts had to be a minimum of 3.25” wide.
Having both sets of knee saver rails in the front with the UPS and duct combination between the front legs pushed everything too far forward for front accessories and knee clearance. Both sets of short rails in the back didn’t leave enough room for clamps along the back edge. Both sets of short rails in the middle pushed the front rail too far forward. Staggering the knee saver rails to the front edge of each of the legs, with the UPS/duct combo in the space between the two full length rails, left ample room in the front and back but was just 1/4” too tight between the rails for the UPSes and duct. Using a 5/8” piece of plywood as a spacer lifted the UPSes just enough for their back edge to clear the short lip of the J-channel behind the front legs.
I wanted to avoid adding extension cords in the desk to get to the UPSes or to get from them to the wall outlet because the added resistance can affect their sensors enough to cause malfunction. That limited the side to side placement of the UPSes to one side of the desk. I did have to add one 3’ extension to the supply cord of the UPS farthest from the wall outlet.
With the outlets in the UPSes pressed against the side of the wire ducts, getting plugs into them meant removing the fingers covering the plugs. That required carefully planning the relative position of the ducts and UPSes, as well as testing to ensure the remaining fingers could still hold the cover in place. Some of the remaining fingers still kept plugs from fully seating, so I also had to carve out shapes around the plugs in those fingers. A Dremel tool and a file worked very well for this.
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Planning fingers, carving fingers, testing fingers, missing fingers, a UPS spacer, and a lot of plugs.
The wire duct cable management
The things I love the most about the wire ducts are:

• The way the 4.25” Panduit ducts fit perfectly between the J-channels. It’s like they were made for it. Like, if I were Chris, I’d look into reselling these bad boys, they’re such a perfect match. And - made in the USA.
• The way the Vertex Pro lift control boxes fit perfectly in the 4.25" Panduit ducts. Again - like it was meant to be. This means you can hide the control boxes - and their wires - inside the ducts.
• The way the 3.12” height of the Panduit ducts leaves just the right amount of space for the wires to get over the tall side of the J-channels. Same. Like the whole assembly was designed as a set. And this is both along the back edge to service appliances on the top, as well as routing wires across the rails underneath.
• The way the Panduit ducts have exactly the same fingers in both the 3.25” and 4.25” wide ducts, so you can’t tell where one ends and the other begins. Surprisingly, this is not a feature common to most wire ducts. It was critical for me where I reduce to 3.25” in front of the UPSes and you just can’t tell that it’s not one continuous stick.
• How the MacBook power supply and the AppleTV are so easy to get to for travel. I used the space between the legs on one side to hold the ethernet switch and one MacBook power supply and on the other to hold the AppleTV and the other MacBook brick. I had just enough 4.25” duct to cover those too. The ethernet switch is bolted into the duct. The ducts ride on the short side of the J-channels. This gives just enough clearance at the center of the top side bracket of the frame to pull out the MacBook bricks, which are loose in the duct. So is the AppleTV, which also easily comes out for trips. The only spares I need are cables since those, of course, stay in the desk.

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Building up from bare ducts in layers till everything is in.
All of the cables had to be put into the ducts in layers with the desk upside down, starting with the power and control wires for the lift system. I do have to periodically open them up for various HDMI, ethernet, phone, or power cable changes, which has proven their ease of access and durability. I just put the desk at seated height, lay on my back on the floor and reach up. The covers come off the ducts very easily and go back on just as easily and securely. The fingers that remain around the UPSes have no trouble holding the cover on. They’re strong and tough and show no signs of wear; they’ll easily last a decade or two.
The strength of the fingers also enabled mounting the HDMI matrix and switch across the width of the two ducts by removing 6 fingers from each of the two parallel 4.25” wide ducts along the line between the two knee-saver J-channels on the front face of the back legs.
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Same layers, different angle, more detail. So many cables… Did I mention the cables?
The ducts cut easily with a hack saw. Cut about half way through the thickness of the base, with the blade between the fingers, and then just fold it back - like cutting drywall or foam board. I used a utility knife to press in a groove between the fingers to give the hacksaw blade something to bite into to stay straight. I also used the utility knife to remove the fingers by scoring them well at the base and bending them to finish the controlled break.
Oh, and since I have the HDMI matrix and switch that tend to get hot captive between the J-channels, covered, and right next to UPSes with batteries that might also get warm, and because Amazon had a USB powered one for $8, I threw in a fan to draw air through the ducts, right at the end next to the HDMI devices and against one of the UPSes.
Ordering the ducts was a huge pain. Arrow Electronics’ prices looked good but that’s because they could not figure out their own website or the difference between the units of feet and pieces. And their customer service was impossible. Online Components was expensive but awesome. They did ship the wrong duct first but their support team were rock stars and got a replacement out right away at no cost to me.
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The money shot.
Some other ideas that may be of use:

• Make padded protectors for monitor arm mounts from waste locking plank flooring to keep them from impressing dents into the desktop.
• Or, for a quick fix, just grab some free sample squares for locking plank flooring at your local hardware warehouse.
• Attach hubs, port replicators, even disk drives under laptop trays. Tie wraps and Velcro straps can be used through the vents or VESA mount holes pretty cleanly with some care.

Things I’d do differently

Having been through it all, and using the desk for over a year, here are a few things I’d do differently if I were starting over:

• 80" desktop width. The 78” width was a choice based on the room size. In hindsight, I think I could have learned to work around an 80” width. Not being able to clamp things to the side along the frame is just a bummer that can only be fixed with a new tabletop.
• Start with 40” feet if I could get them. This would bring the front of to foot to just under one inch from the front edge of the desktop. It’s not needed at all for stability. But it would even further emphasize the C-frame look.
• Use 15/32” faux top. The 11/32” is just a little bit too thin, so it’s not actually strong enough to move the desk with it assembled to the frame without the real top clamped to it. A thicker platform would also sag less.
• Frame the faux top on all sides. I applied a Sapele vernier banding to the sides and back of the faux top to cover the plywood layers and match the real top. Along the front, I glued a 3/8” cove strip to turn the unavoidable step into a feature. This worked well but the felt pad between the tops causes a noticeable gap. To accommodate this, I would glue a cove shaped edging that’s 1/16” deeper than the faux top to be flush to the bottom surface. This would create a cavity at the top to accommodate the felt cloth while matching up to the bottom of the desktop. I’d apply this around all of the edges.

So happy with the results

With all of that said and done, I can honestly say, I had a blast designing and building this desk.
There was obviously a lot I wanted to do with my sit-stand desk and the Vertex Pro 4-Leg base proved to be the ideal platform for all of it. The build quality of this frame is exceptional. The fit and finish of it is un-compromised in every way. There’s no wiggle, shimmy, bend, or give in any part of it. As I’ve read in so many build posts about this frame that it’s becoming cliché, it is an absolute tank.
After more than a year of using this desk all day, every workday, and many weekends, it is uncompromisingly everything I had hoped for and more.

Full list of all products used in the build

Some folks asked for a list of items I used in my build in reply to a teaser post I made back in 2021 when I started my build, so here it is. This includes new and existing items that are part of the desk as an integrated unit. Not included are computers, peripherals, and incidental accessories - e.g., phone chargers, webcam, or desk phone.
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This was my 2021 “Christmas in October” teaser shot
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Item	Source	Qty	Total Weight (lbs)	Price
Frame
Deskhaus Vertex Pro 4-Leg: *Table size 80x32; * Knee saver J-channels; * 24” feet; * Mid-range; * Programmable switch	https://desk.haus/products/vertex-pro-4-leg?variant=40060392505493	1		$1,338.00
Additional 35” feet: including a matching set of longer top side brackets	Deskhaus	pair		$207.00
Top
Sapele Mahogany Solid Glued Top.1 1/4" x 32" - 78”: *Finished with Sealer Coat and 2 Coats of Conversion Varnish; *PA Sales Tax	Bailey Wood Products, Inc	1	80.00	$932.80
11/32 plywood faux top: 11/32 4x8 BCX PLYWOOD	https://www.homedepot.com/p/11-32-in-or-3-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-BC-Sanded-Pine-Plywood-721715/100094072	1	17.50	$31.34
3/8” cove moulding: 3/8x3/8x4 Oak HOFTT10 Cove - shaped edge	https://www.homedepot.com/p/HOUSE-OF-FARA-3-8-in-x-3-8-in-x-48-in-Red-Oak-Cove-Moulding-TT10OAK/202087501	2	0.14	$6.78
Felt & latex pad: Mohawk Home 4 x 6 1/8 Low Profile Non Slip Rug Pad Felt + Rubber Gripper	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P1DYMLD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	2.71	$19.19
Sapele edge binding: Sapele preglued 7/8"x25' Wood Veneer EdgeBanding	eBay	--	--	$14.22
UPS mounting board	Existing scrap	1	1.80	$0.00
Microphone clamp: Neewer C-shaped Microphone Table Mounting	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZY6D39ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.62	$12.50
Headphone clamp: APPHOME Headphone Stand Hanger Under Desk	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R9Z6DTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1; Better option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFV1NQX/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pf_rd_p=2456981b-cf83-4581-a847-6648b497ed81&pf_rd_r=YGZNY8JH6WP4SVAX0YB5&pd_rd_wg=uMvpO&pd_rd_w=voNTV&pd_rd_r=5963e55d-e20f-439b-b5fe-67844ee64959	2	0.63	$21.98
Hardware
T-Nuts 1/4-20x5/16	https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7306	100		$6.04
T-Nuts #10-24x5/16	https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7304	100		$5.49
Machine screws, 10-24 x 3/8: Steel Truss Head Machine Screw, Black Oxide Finish, Meets ASME B18.6.3, #2 Phillips Drive, #10-24 Thread Size, 3/8" Length, Fully Threaded	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTJY8JQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	100	0.45	$6.58
Machine screws, 1/4-20 x 3/8: Steel Pan Head Machine Screw, Black Oxide Finish, Meets ASME B18.6.3, #3 Phillips Drive, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 3/8" Length, Fully Threaded, Import (Pack of 100)	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F35481Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1	100	0.45	$9.74
Machine screws, 10-24 & 1/4-20, assorted lengths	Ace hardware	??	??	??
Rivet nuts: 5/16-18 Rivet Nuts Flat Head Insert Nutsert, Zinc Plated, Carbon Steel, 25 Pack	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087NPJDMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2		$8.99
Monitor mounts
Vivo Monitor arms - TV: VIVO Premium Aluminum Height Adjustable Single Monitor Articulating Desk Mount Stand w/Gas Spring Arm Fits up to 32" Screen (STAND-V001Q)	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYVCEIB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	12.45	$99.98
Wali Monitor arms - laptops: WALI Single Monitor Gas Spring Desk Mount Heavy Duty Aluminum Fully Adjustable Fit Screen up to 35 inch, 33 lbs. VESA 75 and 100 (GSM001XL), Black	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLMLLT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	10.00	$179.98
Laptop trays: MANHATTAN Laptop Vesa Mount Tray - Heavy Duty and Fully Adjustable - Fits Any Laptop with a Width up to 16.5 inches, 461498	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBJM1X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	0.71	$39.98
400x200 VESA mount adapter: Mount Plus 1056 VESA 200x200 Universal Adapter Plate for TV Mounts, Convert VESA 75x75, 100x100 Mount to Fit 200X100, 200x200 mm VESA Patterns, Includes Hardware Kit	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036L5RJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	1.76	$13.99
VESA extension plate adapters for mini-PC: AVLT VESA Monitor Arm Extension Plate Adapter for Intel NUC Mini PC Computer Mount	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G1F2V23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	2.42	$23.98
Power
UPS: Cyberpower Standby 700 V370W UPS System CYSL700U/SL700U	https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1512858-REG/cyberpower_sl700u_standby_700va_370w_ups_system.html	2	13.54	$149.90
Desktop outlet strips: Desk Edge Clamp Power Strip, Desktop Power Outlet Clamp Mount with 2 USB Ports,3 AC Outlets,PD USB-C Power Outlets,Mountable Desk Outlet Removable Power Plugs with 6.56ft Cord (Black)	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095BZL2LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	2.82	$60.56
3’, 14 AWG extension cord: FIRMERST 1875W Heavy Duty Extension Cord 3 Feet 14 AWG 15A Black UL Listed	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XZK93X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.44	$7.99
Right angle USB cables: Male to Female Extension Cable - 2Pack USB 3.0 A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord 7.9inches (20cm)	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084WPG7QG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	0.10	$6.99
SYCON 4-Way power adapter: SYCON Outlet Wall Adapter, 2-Prong Swivel Ungrounded Indoor AC Mini Plug Wall Tap	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082FHBNFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	3	0.45	$17.99
Under-desk Accessories
Slim Under Desk Storage Drawer by UPLIFT Desk	https://www.upliftdesk.com/slim-under-desk-storage-drawer-by-uplift-desk/	1	11.00	$149.00
Compact Desk Drawer by UPLIFT Desk	https://www.upliftdesk.com/compact-desk-drawer-by-uplift-desk/	1	4.40	$69.00
Half Circle Desk Drawer by UPLIFT Desk	https://www.upliftdesk.com/half-circle-desk-drawer-by-uplift-desk/	1	0.50	$49.00
ElevationShelf XL Plus: Elevation Shelf XL Plus (with adjustable tray) - Under Desk Storage Shelf / Desk Organizer, Welded Steel + Matte Black Finish, Great for Workstations, Adjustable Stand Up Desks, Gaming Battle Stations	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VWK6JWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	6.21	$59.95
Wire duct
Panduit 4x3: G4X3LG6 - Wiring Duct ONLY, Slot, Wide Finger - Lt Gray - 4"W x 3"H - 6' Length - LF PVC	https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/panduit/g4x3lg6-12195384.html; https://www.onlinecomponents.com/productfiles/mf-pn/c-wdg4x3-36897-716-r2--eng.pdf	1		$70.25
Panduit C4LG6: Cable Accessories Duct Cover Polyvinyl Chloride Li	https://www.arrow.com/en/products/c4lg6/panduit	1		$17.17
Panduit 3x3: G3X3LG6 - Wiring Duct ONLY, Slot, Wide Finger - Lt Gray - 3"W x 3"H - 6' Length - LF PVC	https://www.arrow.com/en/products/g3x3lg6/panduit?q=G3X3LG6; https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/panduit/g3x3lg6-12195345.html; https://www.onlinecomponents.com/productfiles/mf-pn/c-wdg3x3-36897-711-r2--eng.pdf	1		$10.51
Panduit C3LG6: Cable Accessories Duct Cover Polyvinyl Chloride L	https://www.arrow.com/en/products/c3lg6/panduit	1		$3.09
Electronics - New
IR repeater - Single: BAFX Products - All-in-One Infrared IR Repeater Kit/Remote Control Extender Cable / 1, 2 or 4 Device Contro (1 Device)	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWDZ852/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.07	$10.99
IR repeater - Dual: SZBJ IR Repeater Infrared Remote 1 Receiver 2 Emitters Control Kit Hidden IR System, USB Adapter for Amplifier Cable Box Stereo Receiver Satellite	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWDZ852/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.20	$12.99
Fan: GDSTIME 75mm USB Fan, 75mm x 15mm Blower Fan, 5V DC Brushless Cooling Fan	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9M8T8F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.13	$8.99
Ethernet switch 5-port: NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Home Network Hub, Office Ethernet Splitter, Plug-and-Play, Silent Operation, Desktop or Wall Mount	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S98YLHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.53	$13.49
HDMI cables, 9’	Sam’s Club	2	??	??
Total New			172.03	$3,696.42
Electronics - Existing
HDMI cables, assorted lengths	Various	9	??	??
Vizio 50” V-Series V505-H19: (no longer listed, so showing closest match): VIZIO 50" Class V-Series 4K LED HDR Smart TV - V505M-K09	Sam’s club: https://www.samsclub.com/p/vizio-50-inch-class-v-series-4k-led-smart-tv-gaming-bluetooth-v505m-k09/P03008747?xid=plp_product_3	1	31.50	$269.00
Docking Station for Mac Book: Dual USB C Hub Adapter with Dual 4K HDMI,RJ45 Ethernet Port,100W PD Type C Charging Port,3USB3.0 Ports,SD/TF Card Reader Slots,3.5mm Jack Audio Port for Mac Book AiPro	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08V4VMJFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.45	$59.99
HDMI 4x1 Matrix: Orei Quad Multi HDMI Viewer 4 in 1 Out HDMI Switcher 4 Ports Seamless Switcher and IR Remote Support 4K @ 30Hz 1080P for PS4/PC/DVD/Security Camera, HDMI Switch VGA Output - HDS-401MV	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KFNPTS7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	2.00	$159.00
HDMI 4x2 switch: avedio links 4K@60Hz 4x2 HDMI Matrix Switcher, HDMI 2.0b Matrix Switch 4 in 2 Out, 4K HDMI Switcher Splitter + Optical and L/R Audio Output, Scaler EDID with Remote, Support 2K@144HZ, HDCP2.2, HDR 10	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKZR52G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	1	0.75	$46.98
HDMI 1x2 splitters: OREI 4K 1 in 2 Out HDMI Splitter 4:4:4 8-bit - HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, 18 Gbps, 4K @ 60Hz HDMI DuplicatoDistributor UltaHD High Resolution Down Scaler 1x2 (UHDS-102C)	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093QM3QKZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1	2	0.70	$49.98
Total Existing			35.40	$584.95
Grand Total			207.43	$4,281.37