Km 900 firmware 2011

I started playing around April 2011, when the game was still in beta, but the many new tanks powers introduced all around made the game so much worse than arty could ever do.
We all accept that artillery was badly designed back then and even nowadays, since artillery is nothing but frustrating nowadays - for the one playing it and for the one receiving the damage.
But the damage taken by artillery is just a fraction of what's actually way worse. I am talking about: - tanks with massive alpha - tanks with a loadedrum/mag - the powercreep of the normal tank - tanks where the actual role of the tank doesn't play a major role anymore - barely noticeable armor
Let's start with the massive alpha, as the damage output by most tanks nowadays is SO MUCH MORE than it was used to be back then. You feared the ISU-152 for the high alpha but with most other tanks you had an actual fight. A fight which could take some good 4 minutes depending on angling the tank, using gold rounds etc. But the fight itself wasn't over in 30 seconds as one tank does 600 damage on average. Most noticeable also around t10 when you have 5 TDs out of 15 tanks which can easily do 1k+ damage with a single shot. And that's not even uncommon.
Adding to this, all the tanks systems like loadedrum/mag. Back then france was introduced and people tried the system, some liked it, some didn't. But there was still a major part of the game with just normal tanks. Shooting, reloading, shooting, reloading. Nowadays, 1/3 of a team is some tank with loadedrum/mag design which can burst you down easily. Especially if they play together and just run you down.
As a result, the powercreep of the normal tank. Playing a normal tank feels more like a disadvantage nowdays. I know there are always scenarios where it's better, but If I had the choice to choose a tank for an important fight, it's prolly going to be some loadedrum/mag tank, just to get the burst going.
Next up: Tanks where the actual role of the tank doesn't play a major role anymore I'm talking about light tanks becoming so strong, it could easily be a medium. I am talking about heavy tanks being pretty much pushed out of the matches by a major amount of medium tanks. For diversity sacke it's good to have so many different tanks and their playstyles, but on the other hand it's sad to see the actual role of a tank becoming less and less important.
Talking about heavy tanks, the barely noticeable armor. Back then, gold ammo costed actual gold, so mostly clan players and "game enthusiasts" bought them. Nowadays many many many more players use it and the actual value of armor lost significantly. Winners are tanks like the russians got, where some random bounces still happen, but it doesn't just rely on actual armor values.
To round this up, I think it's not fair to blame artillery for most game stress while there are many other factors in the game now which make the game worse. Artillery is annoying but it isn't the devil. An artillery barely does any damage anymore, got long reload, doesn't hit too often, has reduced splash, tanks can get a skill which even shows them an incoming artillery shot and the map design is closed most of the time anyway. Whereas most tanks hit you either with 600+ damage or burst you down with 3+ shells and drive off with 60 km/h

Hi all, I just have a question. I really want a Subaru WRX. I have found a few options to purchase. Just wanted to ask your opinions on things to look for when inspecting the cars. I'm 26 and have a stable job. Both are within. My budget and want advice. Please note all prices are Canadian so if they seem high it's cause it's Canadian.
Option one: 2011 Subaru WRX STI with 136,00 km (~84,506 miles) for $17,990 CAD (~13155.54 USD) This one has aftermarket rims and suspension.
Option two: 2017 Subaru WRX STI with 134,681 km (~83,686 miles) for $23,980 CAD (~17,535 USD)
If neither of these are worth it would a never WRX sport be worth it?
Both are in good condition with no issues and drive well.
Thanks in advance for any information.
If this is not the place to ask let me know and I can take this down! Thanks again!
For anyone curious I'll post the links to both of the cars below.
2011: 2011 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Sedan AWD - $17,990 (OK_PRICE) Mileage: 135,952 https://www.cargurus.ca/Cars/link/369869235
2017: 2017 Subaru WRX STI Base AWD - $23,980 (GREAT_PRICE) Mileage: 134,681 https://www.cargurus.ca/Cars/link/383100992

so basically these are the specs:
• This is for a Used SIM-UNLOCKED Sharp 601SH Aquos Keitai 2 Flip Phone (White color) • Used as a test phone in our office • Has some small scratches, but in perfect working condition • Flip phone running off a base version of Android 5.1 OS • Cellular Internet / Data connection through simcard will work on this phone • Can also connect to WiFi for your data connection • Can install Android Apps (apk) • We can put an App market on the phone for easy install of apps, or you can install app by PC connection • Also, if customers need us to install a few apps before shipping, we are happy to pre-install for you (no extra charge) Main Specifications • Softbank Sharp 601SH Aquos Keitai 2 Flip Phone • This is the Flip phone running a base version of Android 5.1 OS • Still using the traditional styling of Japanese flip phone, the core is running Android • 601SH is the newer version of the previous popular 501SH • The 601SH has WiFi, which is an upgrade from the previous 501SH • This phone has the MIL-STD-810G Military Grade shockproofing, Waterproofing, and Dustproofing • Now has the large size battery for Flip phones, for improved battery life • With Sharp's low power consumption technology, the phone can easily go for many days without needing to recharge • Has 3 programmable quick keys, which let you assign an app or function to them • One-Touch Push to Flip open button • Has a seamless integrated Sub-Display, blended directly into the front face of the phone
• Scroll up and down by moving your finger over the keypad • Shrink or Enlarge on the screen just like you would on a standard smartphone • Installed with the EMOPA 5.0 system. EMOPA stands for Emotional Partner • With the EMOPA system, the phone has its own emotions and will assist you with reminders and suggestions • 8.0 Megapixel HD Camera (3264 x 2468 pixels max picture taking resolution) • HD video Recording (1280 x 720 video capture resolution) • Multiple camera / picture taking modes and framings • Can take Time-Lapse video • Privacy View • Android 5.1 OS (base) • This Japanese phone is Waterproof / Dustproof in compliance with IPX5/IPX8 standards • Bilingual phone (can be changed from Japanese to English and vice versa) (We set all phones to ENGLISH before shipping • Please Note: This phone uses a Nano-Simcard (the smaller size simcard, like on the iphone 6). If you do not have a nano-simcard, you will need to contact your cellular company and exchange your simcard for a Nano-Simcard
Other Specifications • CPU: Qualcomm Snapdragon 210 (MSM8909) Quad-core 1.1GHz • GPU: Adreno 304 • Memory : 8 GB ROM / 1 GB RAM • 2G Network: GSM, EDGE 900, 1800, 1900MHZ • 3G Network : UMTS HSDPA UMTS 900, 2100 MHZ • 4G Network: FDD-LTE 900, 1800, 2100 MHz (Band 1, 3, 8) • Micro SD memory card supports up to 32GB • Battery Size : 1800mAh • Main Display : 3.4 Inch qHD Display screen (540 x 964 pixels) • Sub Display: 1.0 Inch OLED screen (128 x 36 pixels) • WiFi 802.11 b/g/n • Bluetooth version 4.1 • GPS • Micro-USB Interface / Port • Music Format: MP3, AAC, AAC+, eAAC+, AMR, QCELP, WAV • Size: 113 × 51 x 16.7mm • Simcard Size : Nano Contents • Used Softbank Sharp 601SH Aquos Keitai 2 Android Flip Phone (White color) x 1 • Battery x 1 • Rear Battery cover x 1 • AC Adapter Charger x 1 • USB Cable x 1
SOO I WAS WONDERING IF SOMEONE KNOWS MANY THINGS LIKE ARCHIVES FOR FIRMWARE CUSTOM ROMS AND IF THE MICROSD CAN ONLY SUPPORT UP TO 32GB OR I CAN PUT MORE LIKE 64 or 128GB

Ok, here it goes. I am looking for some real advice - first lets get some facts together:

1. Company - This past spring I started a lawn mowing service. it is fully licensed in the state, county, and is insured. I kept that name vague though so it can be re-used for different things if needed **** Property Solutions.
2. Assets - 14ft enclosed trailer with ramp, 52 inch scag v-ride II, 30 inch scag-30 (lol), stihl km-94 with weed eater and stick edger attachments, stihl BTR 600 blower. Various other tools from running a homestead as well: chainsaws, pruners, hand tools, etc.
3. Vehicle - 2006 Ford F-150 with 8ft bed. 140k miles; making... noises. Only care that me and my wife have (had a kia, it died).
4. Jobs - I had a full time job before starting this, but the commute was over an hour and i decided to go full force into this. Due to a need i have stayed on with them part time and they bend around my mowing or landscaping schedule - but this is my last week with them. My wife is a school teacher - 2 weeks left and then she will be joining me doing this business venture. She gets paid through the summer (until august 10th).

So far this summer - it hasn't been going good. I have been doing what everyone says, posting in all the Facebook groups, running ads, advertising on all local bulletin boards, etc. Door hangers, flyers - I keep going and doing it. So far this summer i have been able to make $900 - gross. yeah. it is big in the red. I am just not sure what to do anymore. Keep going and just hope it finally clicks? --- or is there something else I should pivot into? I am open for any suggestions. I am in south eastern TN if that helps. Coming up here i will be at a excess of manpower and a lack of work to do. So i guess one of the questions should be diversification? What are some things that i could get into with lower costs while i keep building the lawn mowing? Also, i need to diversify for the winter months.
I hope this didnt just sound like me rambling - i am just under a lot of stress.

Hello Everyone,
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I scrolled through the group in search of this question, because I am sure it has been asked before, but didnt find it. Please direct me to it if already discussed.
I am looking for clear information regarding the variants and editions of the Kawasaki Vulcan S.
​
From what i have found up to now is that 2015~2018 the bike was offered without a gear indicator in its dashboard.
The rest are supposedly all the same (2018-today). ??
And there are three variants (but i only find the below two...):
- basic / ABS
- ..... ?
- cafe (with some extra plastics around the headlight to add a bit to a cafe racer aesthetic and nothing else from what i have found)
​
Are there any other differences between the years? (i have seen different power and torque units referenced even in publications)
Are there three or two variants?
What are the differencies between the variants and is it worth it to go for a higher variant than the basic one?
Does the basic/standard variant include ABS or is that possibly the middle variant?
​
I am looking for all this info, because i am strongly considering the bike, but we dont have a kawasaki dealership in my country, closest is 800-900 km away and i am not willing to do the travel (because)
Mainly i am considering getting a used bike and want to know what to look for and what to avoid in regards to variants.
​
thanks in advance and open to discussing any other advice you may have on the bike

1. PERSONALIA

• Age: 35
• Education: Bachelor
• Work experience : 14y
• Civil status: married
• Dependent people/children: 2

2. EMPLOYER PROFILE

• SectoIndustry: public healthcare
• Amount of employees: 5k +
• Multinational? No

3. CONTRACT & CONDITIONS

• Current job: marketing executive
• Job description: Setting up campaigns on company websites / troubleshooting / aftercare for campaigns (reporting)
• Seniority: 1 year (in this job, 9 years in the company)
• Official hours/week : 32 (aangevuld met ouderschapsverlof)
• Average real hours/week incl. overtime: depends, but not too much
• Shiftwork or 9 to 5 (flexible?): 9-5 but flexible
• Vacation days/year: 40

4. SALARY

• Gross salary/month: €4.100
• Net salary/month: €2.650
• Mobility budget/cabike/...: rental bike system
• 13th month (full? partial?): Full
• Meal vouchers: €8
• Ecocheques: €250
• Group insurance: yes
• Other insurances: Hospitalisation insurance
• Other benefits (bonuses, stocks options, ... ): bonus (between 800-900 euro)

5. MOBILITY

• City/region of work: ghent-antwerp-brussels, depends
• Distance home-work: depends
• How do you commute?: By privately owned cabike or train
• How is the travel home-work compensated: KM compensation (0,45 €/km) and refund train tickets, parking...
• Telework days/week: 3

6. OTHER

• How easily can you plan a day off: Easily
• Is your job stressful?: At times, yes
• Responsible for personnel (reports): 0

Ciao a tutti,
entro pochi mesi probabilmente mi (33M) trasferirò dalle valli Trentine alla provincia di Varese (zona laghi) per lavoro. Come utilizzo auto:

• vivrò abbastanza vicino al luogo di lavoro (20 km max);
• qualche gita in montagna nel week-end (200 km max);
• 1/2 volte al mese (ma forse anche piú, chi lo sa) tornerò in Trentino (600 km AR quasi tutti in autostrada).

Ad ora ho una 500 del 2011 con 190000 km. Anche se non comodissima (sono circa 1.90 m), fa il suo lavoro e la vorrei tenere ancora un po'. Detto questo, non é la macchina piú comoda e (credo) sicura per farsi molti km in autostrada e quindi mi sto guardando intorno.
Ho letto alcuni post precedenti ma chiedo comunque un parere diretto. A budget posso arrivare fino a 25 k ma preferirei stare attorno ai 20k e punterei più ad un buon usato se si riesce a risparmiare, comunque con l'idea di tenerla a lungo
Come caratteristiche importanti cerco:

• cambio automatico e cruise control;
• qualche adas per le fasi autostradali:
• macchina non troppo grande (lunghezza max intorno ai 4 m o poco piú)

Non mi dispiacerebbe poi un Infotainment decente con Android Auto (quindi non andrei troppo indietro negli anni). A livello prestazionale non ho particolari esigenze (venendo da una 500 ogni cosa sará un miglioramento), preferisco qualcosa che sia efficiente dal punto di vista dei consumi.
I modelli a cui avevo pensato vanno da Audi A1 (ma anche A3), BMW Serie 1, Ford Focus. Non mi dispiacciono anche la Sandero Stepway e la Duster ma forse non sono le migliori se si fa tanta autostrada.
Grazie!

Hi Everyone,
This is my first time posting so don't go too hard on me. I am interested in buying a Miata (ND3) - new, and I am located in Canada. I am just not sure if it's right for me, however, and any opinions from any of you is greatly appreciated!! As a kid fascinated by small roadsters growing up, the Miata has always held a special place in my heart, and now that I am 23(M), I can possibly make that dream of owning one come true.
A bit of background - I currently own a 2023 Honda Civic (EX) with approximately $9000 CAD still on the loan. It's a great car, and it's zippy and well-built in its own right, but I want something that's considered more of an enthusiast car (ahem Miata). The Miata that I would be interested in is the 2024 one; base model, manual transmission, and black on black (GS, or in the USA, Sport). I know there's already people probably asking "why don't you buy a used Miata?" Fair point, but in Canada, at the moment, there is $1,500 off the MSRP, plus $1,000 off (after taxes, fees) if you recently graduated from college/university, plus $600 off (after taxes, fees) if someone in your household is current/retired military; I fulfill those two incentive conditions as a recent college graduate and my partner is in the military. All in all, that's ~$3,100 off the new Miata, which currently retails for $34,900 CAD (approximately $25,515 USD). Monthly payments are another draw too, with Mazda Canada offering 1.9% interest - quite low all things considered.
To compare, my Honda Civic payments are $420.38/month @ 36 months (307.33 USD, 5.29% APR); I am one year into the financing period. The Miata was quoted at $575/month @ 36 months ($420.37 USD, 1.9% APR). The jump in payment I can stomach, but there's also the responsible part of me that says I should not make the switch. This Miata is also going to be my daily, so I will be driving it in snow (I will definitely spend the money to rust-protect it) and using it for school (I am a masters student now). I also drive a lot - not because I commute, but because I just love driving, so in the year I've had my Civic I've nearly put 32,000 km on it (~20,000 miles). Also last point, yes I would be trading in the Civic.
Sorry for all of the rambling, but TL:DR - should I make an ND Miata my daily driver? Thank you for your time and input, I appreciate each and every one of you!!
P.S. I also attached an image of what the spec'd Miata would look like.

i have the thrustmaster t300rs gt edition for 7 months and the gas pedal is starting to glitch and not go full potential, can somebody help me fix this?
https://preview.redd.it/8akh5lju000d1.png?width=551&format=png&auto=webp&s=5dfe36515ba6e6ce1b0b55a75e05f37a6ea2c53f

hey guys, I'm getting this noise when I try to accelerate, it goes away when I'm reaching 90 km/h. What could it be? My mechanic checked the turbo and it's fine he said Fiat Abarth 500 2011, 118k km 140 hp tuned to 172 hp 230 Nm to 300 Nm Forge Air intake with Akrapovic exhaust with original downpipe
thanks.

Salve a tutti, Sono in possesso di una Opel Corsa D (2011) 185k km con impianto GPL di serie. Circa un mese fa l’auto ha iniziato ad avere diversi problemi. In particolare: 1) in accensione a freddo l’auto non partiva mai al primo colpo ma bisognava tentare due/tre volte; 2) a caldo la macchina stentava ad andare oltre i 70/80kmh e sussultava quando provavo ad accelerare (sia a benzina che a gpl).
Dalla diagnosi fatta dal meccanico i problemi riscontrati erano relativi alla sonda lambda, al funzionamento a 3 cilindri e un errore sulla miscela magra. Il meccanico mi disse che il problema era dovuto probabilmente a della benzina sporca che stavo usando che aveva danneggiato tra le varie cose sonda lambda e anche una candela. L’intervento ha comportato la sostituzione delle candele, della sonda lambda, la pulizia di corpo farfallato, la pulizia degli iniettori benzina, la sostituzione dei filtri carburante e l’inserimento nel serbatoio benzina di un additivo per pulire il serbatoio. Nel frattempo ho anche cambiato benzinaio.
Ad oggi il secondo problema è stato completamento risolto e a caldo l’auto va una meraviglia sia a benzina che a gpl. Resta però il primo problema, ovvero l’auto stenta ad avviarsi a freddo. Riportandola dal meccanico continuava a comparire il problema sulla sonda lambda, pensando ad un componente difettoso l’ha sostituito di nuovo ma senza risolvere né il problema né l’errore. L’unico modo che risolve il problema è circolare solo a benzina e dopo circa 300-350km l’auto torna ad avviarsi al primo colpo. A cosa può essere dovuto questo problema? È mai capitato a qualcuno?