Briggs stratton carb governor linkage diagram

So it starts fine when cold. Runs a bit rough: every two seconds the RPMs dip and then recover. I'm able to mow, but if I shut her down when hot, she won't restart until the engine cools a bit. I replaced the plug which was black. I disassembled and cleaned the carb. Put in fresh gas. Cleaned the air filter. Nothing worked, problem is the same. If I put my finger on the exposed governor linkage and jack up the throttle a bit, it runs more smoothly. I think it is running rich too; I can see exhaust. When the RPMs recover every few seconds. I looked thru the plug hole and the visible face of the piston is black. Thoughts?

So it starts fine when cold. Runs a bit rough: every two seconds the RPMs dip and then recover. I'm able to mow, but if I shut her down when hot, she won't restart until the engine cools a bit. I replaced the plug which was black. I disassembled and cleaned the carb. Put in fresh gas. Nothing worked, problem is the same. If I put my finger on the exposed governor linkage and jack up the throttle a bit, it runs more smoothly. I think it is running rich too; I can see exhaust. When the RPMs recover every few seconds. I looked thru the plug hole and the visible face of the piston is black. Thoughts?

I own a riding mower with a 12hp Briggs and Stratton. A day ago it was running fine but today when I went to start it turned over and nothing happened. I checked the spark and it was good and the fuel line was supplying petrol to the carb after that I checked the air filter and it was good too. After this it tried to run for a few seconds but never got going and puffed a tiny little bit of smoke out the intake when it stopped. Have recently had the valves checked and they were good not sure where to go now it had fresh fuel put in a couple days ago too.

Hey so I have a Briggs and Stratton 5hp engine and I have it on a little mini bike and I was just wondering if there was any way I can make it faster because I heard there might be a governor on this engine but I can’t find any videos or information to find it. I can feel it limiting rpm’s
Thanks!

Hoping someone here has some ideas for this...
My parents want to have some way to know if they aren't home whether their utility power is out and if the generator has started up properly, and if the utility power is restored.
They have a GE/Briggs and Stratton 17kW natural gas standby generator which is controlled by a Symphony II automatic transfer switch with automatic load-shedding. It appears there used to be a wireless "screen" available that is now discontinued so I can't use that to tap onto something, and I've been unsuccessful finding a sufficiently detailed manual/diagram to tell if either the generator or transfer switch has some kind of basic relay-output (e.g. something intended to feed a home alarm system). There also apparently used to be a now-discontinued WiFi hub-device, and a still possibly available (but VERY expensive + subscription) cellular monitoring setup though the local service companies seem unwilling to try and install it and I can't say I like the idea of a subscription (which may not even allow API access).
I notice it has a USB type B port on the generator control panel but I can't find any information about what that is for or does beyond "for technician".
I've had some ideas with putting an energy-monitor in the transfer switch and infer based on the power consumption from grid or from generator whether its on utility power or generator power...but that seems like there should be a simpler way.
Has anyone tackled this?

Trailmaster Hurricane 200x. Stage 1 kit from GPS and a 60 tooth sprocket. Amazon adjustable carb to adjust aifuel ratio. Set the governor spring on the throttle linkage to the rightmost hole. It was running like a canned car without a tune. That high rev then low dip. I adjusted the AF mix, and it seemed a lot better. Got the bike up to 44 mph a few times over the course of an hour with 2 of them being back to back. It shut off after I let off the throttle, and I was able to limp it back home most of the way (1/8 mile at best and a straight shot). Now it won’t stay running without the choke, and the rpm’s are stupid high with the choke on. Any ideas?

I located a Toro 8-32 as a candidate for my dad's yard. I went through the machine and it was working great. Lately, the motor has started to overrev when getting past half throttle (4550 rpm using a Rotary sensor tach).
I've gone through the carb, checked governor linkage, bent the governor spring tab to lessen tension.
Compression is about 60. Motor sounds good, just overrevving. I checked the tach on my push mower and it's working perfectly.
Am I looking at a bad governor? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Rick

I located a Toro 8-32 as a candidate for my dad's yard. I went through the machine and it was working great. Lately, the motor has started to overrev when getting past half throttle (4550 rpm using a Rotary sensor tach).
I've gone through the carb, checked governor linkage, bent the governor spring tab to lessen tension.
Compression is about 60. Motor sounds good, just overrevving. I checked the tach on my push mower and it's working perfectly.
Am I looking at a bad governor? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Rick

I have no idea how long it's been there, covered only by a shoddy porch. It's a Briggs and Stratton 08P502-0110-F1. Got the old fuel out, it didn't even smell like gas... Put new fuel in and primed it, nothing. So I pulled the carb cover off and gave it a shot of starter fuild and she turned over, so I figure I have spark and compression. Now I'm not sure where my problem is. She's just not getting fuel I think. Or it could just be it was effectively left outside under some stairs over Winter. Should I keep at it? Or cut my losses and get a new one?

Hey y'all! I need help. I have a Briggs and Stratton 625ex Series push mower that's very hard to start, and only runs for about 2 minutes until it gets very hot. After that it stalls and then won't start again until it's completely cool. If I try to pull start when it's still hot it backfires very loudly, not a 'pop' more like a gunshot. After each unsuccessful start, or if I'm hand turning it makes a small low pitched 'farting' noise like it's letting off pressure somehow.
I dont have the money right now for a new mower (Holy shit when did the cost of push mowers double) or a small engine repair bill, so I jumped on youtube and did some troubleshooting. I ended up balancing the blade and putting in a new flywheel key (old one was definitely sheared). I completely disassembled, cleaned, and checked the flow through the gas tank and carb. Carb floater is fine, gas cap is vented, all the nozzles and lines are clear etc. The seals are fine and the choke levers feel good. I made sure the breather hose wasn't clogged (it did have water in it though). I replaced both the ignition coil and spark plug with new OEM parts. I popped the muffler off and burned out all the carbon buildup with a propane torch and put it back on. I've changed the oil twice, and tried both fresh non-ethenol and 87 gas. The oil level is exactly between low and full. I set the rockers to 0.004" at top dead center according to the owners manual. I replaced the old air filter with a fresh OEM filter.
I feel like for all the work I put in this thing should run like a dream lol. Nothing has changed the performance aside from replacing the flywheel key making it much more reliable to start. I have no idea what I'm doing, so any ideas at all are super helpful. Thank you guys!

Briggs and Stratton 104m02-0131-f1 First replaced fuel injector in carb. Drained fuel tank and put fresh gas in. Replaced carburetor. Used starter fluid and got it to start but will not continue to run. Checked flywheel key and it wasn’t out of place or destroyed.
Don’t know where else to turn. First time looking at an engine and followed all the advice I could find but still no luck.
Doing everything I can to avoid buying a new one but the Len is in desperate need for a fresh cut.
Have a picture of the key and additional videos if that’ll help diagnose in any way

Its a Craftsman mower with a Briggs&Stratton 6.75 Gold Series Model# 126M02-1525-F4 engine. Its about 12 yrs old.
The problem with this mower is it is hard to start when cold, not cold as in temperature but cold as in not having been run for 8 hrs or more. It takes 10 or more pulls to start it. Once it starts, it runs great. And after it has started once, it starts easily with one pull.
I just cleaned the carb using carb cleaner, air, and small wires for the jets and small passages. Like I said, once it starts, runs strong, no hesitation, no surging, no stalling. I checked the automatic choke and it seems to be operating fine. The butterfly is closed when cold and open when hot. The metal wand connected to the muffler is all the way to the right when cold, and moves to the left after it is warmed up. It is operating as it should.
It acts as its not getting gas on a cold start, and it takes 10 pulls to "prime" it. Could it be a failed needle and seat? What else could it be based on these specific symptoms?
I might buy a cheap China made carb and throw it on there to see if it changes anything, but I dont want to waste my time and money if it is something else. Any ideas what this hard starting when cold only is?
Thanks.

Its a Craftsman mower with a Briggs&Stratton 6.75 Gold Series Model# 126M02-1525-F4 engine. Its about 12 yrs old.
The problem with this mower is it is hard to start when cold, not cold as in temperature but cold as in not having been run for 8 hrs or more. It takes 10 or more pulls to start it. Once it starts, it runs great. And after it has started once, it starts easily with one pull.
I just cleaned the carb using carb cleaner, air, and small wires for the jets and small passages. Like I said, once it starts, runs strong, no hesitation, no surging, no stalling. I checked the automatic choke and it seems to be operating fine. The butterfly is closed when cold and open when hot. The metal wand connected to the muffler is all the way to the right when cold, and moves to the left after it is warmed up. It is operating as it should.
It acts as its not getting gas on a cold start, and it takes 10 pulls to "prime" it. Could it be a failed needle and seat? Thats what I have been thinking after doing a little research.
I might buy a cheap China made carb and throw it on there to see if it changes anything, but I dont want to waste my time and money if it is something else. Any ideas what this hard starting when cold only is?
Thanks.

I have a Briggs & Stratton TB200 lawn mower and I was working on the carb. I cleaned it out and it started up but was leaking gas so I had to remove the assembly again got everything back together but now the starter rope is just pulling and is loose do I need a new assembly? I attached some pictures does anything look broken? I also checked the flywheel and it is moving with the lawn mower blade. What would be the diagnosis for this one?

Just a general question here, I have a Briggs and Stratton generator that runs on propane. There are so many advantages to propane vs using gasoline. (Avoiding ethanol, stale gas, gummed carb, spilled fuel. etc) I got to wondering if I could convert my lawnmower to propane for some of those benefits, but my searches only found me 10 year old janky YouTube videos that looked like I’d end up stuck in the algorithm for free energy or flat earth if I watched them. It is something feasible or just a stupid idea? Why isn’t it more common?

Hi guys,
I have a mower with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It doesn't idle anymore, it runs only by manually pulling the lever on the carb, bypassing the governor system. I think the governor might be broken because regulating it doesn't change the situation. The spring attached is fine. Any opinion on this problem? Thanks for helping