I suspected a very stubborn virus, so I did a fresh Windows install from USB and wiped all drive partitions.
Now I've got a bunch of downloads sitting in "Windows Update" and they're setting off my radar...
Security Intllgence Update for Microsoft Defender Antivirus -K<8267602 (Version 1.41.1280)- Cureant Channal (Broad) tltie-10% T Windows Malicious Software Remaval Tool *64 - v5.123 (KB890830) Pending install 2024-04 Cumulative Update for Windows 11 Version 23H2 for x64-based Systems (KB5036893) Downloading -7% 2024-04 Cumulative Update for.NET Framework 3.5 and 4.8.11 for Windows 11, version 23H2 for x64 (KB5036620) Pending install Logitech - USBDevice - 1.0.51.4614 Pending install LG Electronics Inc.- xtension - 1.1.2023.1102 Pending install 2023-11 Update for Windows 11 Version 23H2 for x64-based Systems (KB4023057) Pending install Intel - net - 22.250.1.2 Pending install Advanced Micro Devices, Inc- System - 2.2.0.121 Pending install
"Intel-net-22.250.1.2" specifically worries me because I don't have an Intel processor...Are these legit? If they're not then does that mean I have a modem virus? Or that it's gotten into the bios?

I have a earlier batch ec2-cw and i cant use it, it keeps disconnecting and the enhanced receiver keeps blinking ambeorange, ive tried everything (uninstalling the mouse from the device manager, switching the usb cable to the receiver, another pc) and nothing changed.
It is my only wireless device at the moment so it cant be interference, my modem is also in other room.

I am currently trying to ditch my Google Wifi device for DHCP/Port Forwarding and was wondering how viable my options are without investing in any additional hardware. I have the following equipment available:

• HP EliteDesk 800 G1 SFF w/ 1 ethernet port available.
• A Google Nest Wifi router
• A Netgear JGS524PE managed switch
• A Nintendo Switch USB Ethernet Adapter

My first question is what kind of speeds are needed for OPNsense? The EliteDesk has a single gigabit connection and the Switch adapter would provide a 100 megabit (or USB2.0 speed) connection. Would I be able to accomplish using this with just the single built in port and would it slow the network down?
Is there some configuration where I could connect the modem directly into the switch with the nest router, OPNsense desktop, and the rest of my network without going through the nest first?

Olá, amigos! Enfim comprei meu pc com a ajuda de vocês. Muito obrigado!
Entretanto, como venho de notebook, não tenho a minima ideia de qual seria a solução mais em conta/barata para colocar wifi no meu pc (estou ciente dos receptores wifi USB, mas os comentários são sempre negativos em relação a recepção do sinal e quedas constante).
Vi umas placas wireless por uns 150 reais e gostaria de saber se existe soluções mais em conta.
Muito grato!
PS: Usar cabo não é uma opção por limitações físicas em relação ao local do modem.

Does anyone here have an issue when trying to place a phone call, occasionally I'll get an error that says "Server Unreachable?" I'm on Warp5G on a Pixel 8 Pro. At first I thought it was one of the infamous Pixel modem issues but it appears to be an issue even after the April update which fixed a lot of problems. Also, it doesn't happen on GSM 5G, which is my second SIM.
What's most annoying is that I'm not able to recreate the issue consistently, and it doesn't matter if the phone is on WiFi calling or cellular. Sometimes it happens mid-call but most of the time it's when initially placing a call.

so basically these are the specs:
• This is for a Used SIM-UNLOCKED Sharp 601SH Aquos Keitai 2 Flip Phone (White color) • Used as a test phone in our office • Has some small scratches, but in perfect working condition • Flip phone running off a base version of Android 5.1 OS • Cellular Internet / Data connection through simcard will work on this phone • Can also connect to WiFi for your data connection • Can install Android Apps (apk) • We can put an App market on the phone for easy install of apps, or you can install app by PC connection • Also, if customers need us to install a few apps before shipping, we are happy to pre-install for you (no extra charge) Main Specifications • Softbank Sharp 601SH Aquos Keitai 2 Flip Phone • This is the Flip phone running a base version of Android 5.1 OS • Still using the traditional styling of Japanese flip phone, the core is running Android • 601SH is the newer version of the previous popular 501SH • The 601SH has WiFi, which is an upgrade from the previous 501SH • This phone has the MIL-STD-810G Military Grade shockproofing, Waterproofing, and Dustproofing • Now has the large size battery for Flip phones, for improved battery life • With Sharp's low power consumption technology, the phone can easily go for many days without needing to recharge • Has 3 programmable quick keys, which let you assign an app or function to them • One-Touch Push to Flip open button • Has a seamless integrated Sub-Display, blended directly into the front face of the phone
• Scroll up and down by moving your finger over the keypad • Shrink or Enlarge on the screen just like you would on a standard smartphone • Installed with the EMOPA 5.0 system. EMOPA stands for Emotional Partner • With the EMOPA system, the phone has its own emotions and will assist you with reminders and suggestions • 8.0 Megapixel HD Camera (3264 x 2468 pixels max picture taking resolution) • HD video Recording (1280 x 720 video capture resolution) • Multiple camera / picture taking modes and framings • Can take Time-Lapse video • Privacy View • Android 5.1 OS (base) • This Japanese phone is Waterproof / Dustproof in compliance with IPX5/IPX8 standards • Bilingual phone (can be changed from Japanese to English and vice versa) (We set all phones to ENGLISH before shipping • Please Note: This phone uses a Nano-Simcard (the smaller size simcard, like on the iphone 6). If you do not have a nano-simcard, you will need to contact your cellular company and exchange your simcard for a Nano-Simcard
Other Specifications • CPU: Qualcomm Snapdragon 210 (MSM8909) Quad-core 1.1GHz • GPU: Adreno 304 • Memory : 8 GB ROM / 1 GB RAM • 2G Network: GSM, EDGE 900, 1800, 1900MHZ • 3G Network : UMTS HSDPA UMTS 900, 2100 MHZ • 4G Network: FDD-LTE 900, 1800, 2100 MHz (Band 1, 3, 8) • Micro SD memory card supports up to 32GB • Battery Size : 1800mAh • Main Display : 3.4 Inch qHD Display screen (540 x 964 pixels) • Sub Display: 1.0 Inch OLED screen (128 x 36 pixels) • WiFi 802.11 b/g/n • Bluetooth version 4.1 • GPS • Micro-USB Interface / Port • Music Format: MP3, AAC, AAC+, eAAC+, AMR, QCELP, WAV • Size: 113 × 51 x 16.7mm • Simcard Size : Nano Contents • Used Softbank Sharp 601SH Aquos Keitai 2 Android Flip Phone (White color) x 1 • Battery x 1 • Rear Battery cover x 1 • AC Adapter Charger x 1 • USB Cable x 1
SOO I WAS WONDERING IF SOMEONE KNOWS MANY THINGS LIKE ARCHIVES FOR FIRMWARE CUSTOM ROMS AND IF THE MICROSD CAN ONLY SUPPORT UP TO 32GB OR I CAN PUT MORE LIKE 64 or 128GB

Hi,
I'm moving to an area of the UK that has one fast provider for broadband. Unfortunately, this provider not know for being reliable- and I need it for work.
I have an Asus router that supports dual WAN, but has no USB ports.
4G/5G in the area looks ok- so I'd like to consider setting up a 4G/5G modem connected to my router as failover. Possibly a cheapish new/old phone if that would work - but I can only connect to the router via Ethernet.
How would I be best going about this? I've been looking for something to run as the 'modem'/receiver to hook up via Ethernet, but have only really found routers with SIM slots and obviously don't want to be running two routers in line- not sure if they can be set to modem only mode.

Can someone please share a link to an explanation (in somewhat layman’s terms) what the security risks are with an external drive attached via USB to a Wi-Fi router (using SMB)?
All I’ve been able to find about this are references to vulnerabilities that have likely been fixed through firmware updates, but nothing explaining the generally inherent risks of such a configuration. I do not doubt that a NAS server setup (ie Synology) is inherently more secure and superior in performance, however, a server setup is likely way more than what we need. Also, I’m unsure if I have the network technical chops to setup / configure, debug, etc a NAS Server…and possibly not the physical space to put it.
MORE PERSONAL DETAILS FOR CONTEXT: - Our household only needs network accessible storage to stream (via Wi-Fi) movies to no more than 2 devices (iPads & iPhones) at a time. - Our home network consists of an ISP provided GB modem -> Juniper Networks (SRX210) hardware firewall -> ASUS RT-AC86U router. - Juniper firewall was provided and configured by a friend (network security professional), who is unfortunately no longer available to help. - ASUS router has a 1.8 GHz dual-core processor with 256 MB Flash and 512 MB RAM, and two USB ports (3.0 & 2.0). - SMB connection to drive is username & password protected using the routers admin page feature within the “Network Place (Samba) Share / Cloud Disk” section.
I’ve already setup and tested (with iPad) that a 2TB Western Digital USB 3.0 external drive (HFS formatted) works. Can stream a 1.75GB movie (.MP4) without any noticeable problems. Although, this test was very limited…only watched 10 minutes of movie and disconnected the drive after less than 2 hours of connecting to router. I’m hesitant to leave the drive connected until I better understand the security risks. TYIA!

I see this question asked a lot… so I did my best to highlight the most noteworthy changes from Model 3 “First Generation” to 2022 “Refresh” to 2024 “Highland”
The biggest changes come in 2024. I would say if you are in the market for a used Tesla, the First Generation is currently the best bang for the buck. Feel free to add anything I missed!
2018 vs. 2022 vs. 2024 Model 3
2022 REFRESH:
Increased range 272 from 262 Lithium ion 12V battery New LFP batteries (Charge to 100%) Lifters for the trunk Newefaster CPU Double panel windows (Still noisy in my experience, but not as bad as previous generation) Chrome delete (Biggest aesthetic difference) I plan to black mine out when my chrome starts fade/cloud Heat pump (~20% better range in colder climates) Not an issue for me- SoCal
0-60 5.8 from 5.3 (SR) New center console (Personally I like the old look better NO home-link garage opener NO mobile connector included. NO fog lights NO lumbar adjustment for front passenger seat NO premium sound system, my 2018 sounds significantly loude“better” than model refresh.
2024 HIGHLAND:
AP4 cameras with 4x resolution HW4 GPU that's >4x faster AP4 downgraded RAM from 16GB to 8GB, 256GB SSD to 128GB SSD New headrest Removed rear middle heated seats Base Model 3 changed brakes to Hitachi from Brembo Improved suspension comfort with updated springs, dampers, geometry, bushings Double pane acoustic glass on rear windows and rear windshield Upgraded to 17 speakers from 14. There is 2 subwoofers now. Updated front bumper design for 8% efficiency improvement. Cd now 0.219 vs 0.225 before Dedicated fog lights removed and integrated into the main headlight Updated wheel designs for all sizes Updated taillight design Ultra red now available Removed stalks, now buttons added to the wheel Screen size increased from 15" to 15.4" with a smaller screen bezel Added ambient lighting Removed wood panel Ventilated front seats Updated wiper design Redesigned center console, aluminum bits, better materials across More sound insulation material Updated bonnet design to reduce noise Updated tires for lower road noise, but reduced max speed to 125mph from 140mph Updated front control arm to aluminum housing to fix water ingress that causes squeaking Updated air vent design, now can turn off passenger vents Updated Bluetooth chip There is 2 microphones instead of 1, one for each front seat Updated Wi-Fi chip for 2x range Updated cellular modem for better range Added UWB support for better phone key support USB C charging upgraded to 65W Added 8" rear screen Updated rear seats and stitching Repositioned Lower Reflectors to the lower part of the rear bumper Updated Cooling Ducts with larger single inlet New Wheel Hubs and Brake Rotors, up to 20% improvement in front axle responsiveness Cargo volume increased from 23 cu ft to 24 cu ft Extra actuator (1 to 2) on the powered rear trunk Updated interior reinforcement structure for better crash performance and quieter door closing sound Added blind spot indicator lights

I did install the drivers from the gigabyte website but it doesn't work at all.
Other devices -> Network Controller: The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28)
Nothing helps.
Can't RMA the board, don't have 2 weeks to spare. I'm using a cheap wifi USB modem, kinda pissed that I can't use the onboard device (it is enabled in BIOS).

Hello everyone!
My desktop PC keeps having problems with wifi. As soon as I open a browser, start a download, join a voice call, connection drops.
Tried pinging a site (just pinged google), and sometimes even if I don't do anything, the ping requests time out. It makes internet usage borderline impossible, and it's driving me crazy.
The problem only occours on my desktop, my phone, tablet and laptop work fine. The desktop has a USB wifi adapter, in case that info might prove valuable. The router, modem and adapter were the same before the problem started, no idea what might cause it. The desktop also has a much slower internet access that the other devices (13Mbps download on desktop, 76Mbps on laptop).
Any help is appreciated!

I want to enable communication between 2 devices via a Cloudflare tunnel. Unfortunately, I'm currently having communication problems, likely caused by the subnets.

Device 1:

• Linux SBC
  
• Etho via DHCP to 192.168.1.0/24 (no internet)
  
• ppp0 via USB LTE modem to the Internet
  

Device 2:

• Windows 10 VM
  
• Internet through host (10.0.2.0/24) which has internet through different WiFi networks.
  

Tunnel:

• is active as soon as one of the devices is on
  
• Logs do not give any indication of connection problems
  
• route 192.168.1.0/24 in Tab "Private Network"
  
• route 10.0.2.0/24 im Tab "Private Network"
  
• Public hostname to 192.168.1.1:80 for testing purposes (Auth via SSO)
  

The plan:

I plan to be able to access the device on 192.168.1.1 via the VM. The VM is necessary due to compatibility issues with other software, the address can't be changed. I'm currently getting both devices to connect to the tunnel. I can also reach 192.168.1.1:80 from outside via the tunnel via my domain, so the connection problem is on the Windows computer. ^{However, the program I use doesn't support domains and I couldn't log in using SSO without a browser so I couldn't use that, it uses TCP connections}
I'm assuming that I need to somehow tell the VM that the IP is on the other side of the tunnel. However, since this IP is in a completely different subnet, I'm not entirely sure how to do this. Since cloudflared doesn't have its own interface and I can't find a route that looks like cloudflared using route PRINT in the Windows command line. This means the traffic for 192.168.1.0/24 will use the VM's Bridge instead of the Cloudflare Tunnel. I can't route everything through the tunnel because the LTE Modem won't have a unlimited dataplan.
I'd prefer a software solution, but in the worst case I believe I could get extra Hardware.

https://xdaforums.com/t/guide-lg-g8-g8x-v50-bootloader-unlock-and-magisk-root-using-firehose.4221793/
going over this guide, gathering the files and reading it many times before trying.
it says to download "LG Mobile Driver" but its said that lg bridge replaced drivers.
my phone is on a12 and I want to bring it back to 10 or 11 and also rip out some lg and google crap. iver never done it before. I did try to flash an older version on lg g6 and while I loaded the rom it never flashed it and still on shitty a8
gsm has linked some drivers. https://www.gsmofficial.com/lg-mobile-usb-drive
do I need bridge or do I need the driver or both? theres no date to the driver so I dont know if it includes the v50
any suggestion or direction would be apprciated.
one last question, one I UBL and root, is it possible to change icons for apps or is it only done through a launcher? thanks again

Hey,
After digging for hours I've realized my situation may be unique.
My PC was running fine, then I woke up the next day and there was no power, not to any of the USB or external devices, as well as no light from LEDs.. About 24 hours pass and the PC now fully turns on.
The only issue is that there is no connection to the internet. My PC is wired (always has been) directly into the modem.
When looking at the driver (Intel(R) Ethernet Controller I225-V), I see the error code 10 saying the device cannot start.
I have followed many different guides on what to do, but here is what I've done so far

• Full Restart
• Deleting drivers
• Getting driver from USB
• BIOS Check (making sure everything is normal)
• Trying a new cord that's verified working

The situation gets tricky: if my PC shuts off, it takes about 60 seconds for LEDS to come on and the power button to work. If I try before that it just won't turn on.
Did something fry in my PC? Any suggestions?

When I'm playing crossplay with a friend (he's on XBox and I'm on PC), on the weekends in particular, my ping gets so bad that the game becomes unplayable. I'm connected wirelessly, and have gotten a USB antenna to help the signal even, but this continues to be an issue. Oddly enough, when I hop on my Steam Deck in the same room, connected to the same internet connection, the problem completely disappears.. Unfortunately, LAN connection isn't an option due to the location of my modem/router. I'm considering buying a PCIe card to help with the connection issues. Does anyone have any ideas on whether or not that might work, or what the problem might be?

Ich möchte über einen Cloudflare Tunnel die Kommunikation zwischen 2 Geräten ermöglichen. Leider habe ich aktuell Kommunikationsprobleme und steh bezüglich der Lösung auf dem Schlauch.

Gerät 1:

• Linux SBC
• Eth0 via DHCP zu 192.168.1.0/24 (kein Internet)
• ppp0 durch USB LTE Modem ins Internet

Gerät 2:

• Windows 10 VM
• Internet durch Host (10.0.2.0/24)

Tunnel:

• ist aktiv sobald eines der Geräte an ist
• Logs geben keinen Eindruck von Verbindungsproblem
• 192.168.1.0/24 im Tab "Private Network"
• Public Hostname auf 192.168.1.1:80 für Testzwecke (Auth über SSO)
  

  Das Vorhaben:

Ich plane das Gerät auf 192.168.1.1 über die VM ansprechen zu können. Die VM ist aufgrund von Kompatibilitätsproblemen anderer Software notwendig. Aktuell bekomme ich beide Geräte dazu, sich mit dem Tunnel zu verbinden. Über meine Domain kann ich 192.168.1.1:80 auch von aussen über den Tunnel erreichen, dementsprechend liegt das Verbindungsproblem am Windows Rechner. ^{das Programm was ich nutze unterstützt jedoch keine Domains und mittels SSO könnte ich mich ohne Browser eh nicht einloggen}
Ich gehe davon aus dass ich der VM irgendwie mitteilen muss, dass die IP auf der anderen Seite vom Tunnel ist. Da diese IP allerdings in einem komplett anderen Subnetz ist bin ich mir nicht ganz sicher wie ich das anstellen kann. Da cloudflared kein eigenes Interface hat und über route PRINT finde ich keine Route die nach cloudflared aussieht.