TL;DR I'm in the process of working on a Fallout game/setting using the Mythras ruleset. In this post I will present my ideas so far and include a bit of my design thoughts and processes. This will be presented through headings, ranging from Skills, Careers and Perks. Feel free to critique and discuss ideas!
About me: My Mythras experience is not vast, but still adequate - I've also played BRP-engine games like CoC, Delta Green and Runequest for +5 years.
I do have access and have read Mythras Firearms as well as the Mythras Imperative. Me and my group(s) will also be playing using Foundry VTT, so some extra bookkeeping will be automated, mostly meaning that I am not super afraid of extra "bookkeeping mechanics".
My experience of the actual Fallout the Roleplaying Game by Modiphius has been of general disappointment, though it got some bits that I like. I'll use some wording and ideas from Modiphius' game when designing my own Fallout setting using the Mythras ruleset.
What am I looking for?
Help, tips and suggestions on the various mechanics of Mythras within the Fallout universe. In general, I would like to stay true to both Mythras and Fallout, though one would probably need to dismiss one in certain design situations.
Looking at the chapters/headings of this post, feel free to only comment on aspects you find interesting. There is no need to force yourself to read the whole post.
Why Mythras and Fallout?

• Skill-based
• Combat-focus
• Great system for cultures and cults/brotherhoods that fit well into Fallout's factions

Character Creation

Characteristics
It'd be great to have S.P.E.C.I.A.L.S but for simplicity we will stay with the Mythras or BRP base characteristics: Strength (STR), Constitution (CON), Size (SIZ), Dexterity (DEX), Intelligence (INT), Power (POW), Charisma (CHA).
Fallout otherwise have Strength, Perception, Endurance, Charisma, Agility and Luck. Five out of these seven have more or less a direct counterpart. Fallout's Luck and Perception will be partly covered by POW. Perception moves to become a skill.
Species/Origin
One needs not to be confined to just humans; I figure Ghoul and Super Mutant would be the go-to alternatives here aside from human. Additional alternatives would be Synths (3rd generation) or other robots like Mister Handy.

• Is it boring to just give bonuses and penalties to characteristics? Like +4 CON & -2 CHA to Ghouls, and +3 CON, +3 STR, +4 SIZ, -4 CHA, -4 INT to Super Mutants.
• This could also include some sort of ability, trait or bonus perk; like "Necrotic Post-human" or "Forced Revolution" per Modiphius' Fallout. Basically giving a bonus to Radiation resistance, prolonged lifespan, etc.

Pulp
How much of the Pulp Heroic character rules would you use? As of now, I only have double the Healing Rate, but might have to include other aspects also to make the game a bit less deadly.
The addition of perks will make characters more powerful. However, there is no magic that characters could benefit from. I would imagine characters will also benefit greatly from consumables and equipment in general.

Skills

While Fallout uses a smaller set of skills than Mythras and most percentile-based games, I think a mix would suit well. We don't want skill bloat, with too many skills overlapping or too many skills ending up being either useless or extremely situational. At the same time, having enough skills to let players feel like they can specialize and be the only one that covers certain skills is also a relevant approach.
I also would like to incentive the allocation of skill points into more niche skills such as Culture, Lore, Art, and Craft. This could be done by separating the pools of Professional and Standard skill points more during character creation.
In Fallout 4 skills were entirely replaced by perks. The Fallout 3 skill list includes: Barter, Big Guns, Energy Weapons, Explosives, Lockpicking, Medicine, Melee Weapons, Repair, Science, Small Guns, Sneak, Speech, Unarmed. New Vegas added a Survival skill. New Vegas also merged Big Guns and Small Guns into a Guns skill, with the design intention that there weren't any early game Big Guns to use. Big Guns would include Flamers, Miniguns, Missile Launchers.
Combat Styles are therefore something I would like your suggestions on. Should I handle Combat Styles more like traditional weapon types like in Call of Cthulhu, i.e., have Combat Style (Shotgun), Combat Style (Guns), Combat Style (Rifles), Combat Style (Swords), Combat Style (Blunt Weapons), etc.?
Right now I am working with the idea of having 5 Combat Styles + Unarmed. Them being Big Guns, Energy Weapons, Explosives, Melee Weapons, and Small Guns. Is Small Guns to broad (making use of all sorts of pistols, shotguns and rifles)? Is Explosives a redundant skill? Especially so that you would need Athletics to throw an explosive. Perhaps have Explosives as just a professional skill, used to disarm mines, craft and handle explosives, and general knowledge about explosives.
As of now, this is the skill-list, with standard skills listed as (S) and professional skills listed as (P), somewhat arbitrarily:

• Acrobatics (P)
• Art (P)
• Administer (P)
• Animal Handling (P)
• Athletics (S)
• Barter (P)
• Barter (P)
• Brawn (S)
• Combat Styles: Big Guns, Energy Weapons, Explosives, Melee Weapons, Small Guns, Unarmed
• Craft (P)
• Culture (P) - ***Merged with customs. "***Useful for knowing social codes, rites, rituals, taboos for a particular society. Culture relates to societies that the character has either grown up in, or ones that is foreign to the character’s own. Each Culture skill must be given a particular faction, nation or society to which it applies."
• Decieve (S)
• Disguise (P)
• Endurance (S)
• Evade (S)
• Insight (S)
• Intimidate (S)
• Investigate (S) - To make Perception less impactful. " Useful for investigating a crime scene, finding information in a book or library, spotting secret compartments and inconspicuous clues, and recognizing symbols. Search for clues and make deductions based on the clues. Remembering relevant information from previous investigations. Find a piece of information, such as a certain book, newspaper, or reference in a library, archive or collection of documents, assuming the item is there. Researching by reading books or other documents may take several hours. If the player tells the GM what they do, how they do so, and what ability they use, they should automatically succeed if there is a clue hidden to be found if their Investigate skill is high enough. A failure on the roll can mean that a clue is found, but it leads to other unanswered questions or complications. An extreme success could mean additional context."
• Lockpicking (P)
• Lore (P) - "This skill represents a character’s expert understanding of a subject that falls outside the normal bounds of human knowledge, standard sciences and classic subjects. It can include the history of a particular town, or a specific social class, but should stray away from subjects that are covered by other skills such as Culture. Lore specializations can be more general, of which successful skill rolls will generate more generalized knowledge. Specializations of Lore can be specific and unusual versions of existing skills such as Occult and Survival; 2100s Lore, Brotherhood of Steel Lore, New Vegas Lore, Moon Landing Lore, Fiend Lore. Specific Lore specializations will generate much more accurate and specific information regarding that subject."
• Medicine (P) - Merged with First Aid as I believe consumables such as Medpaks and Stimpaks will be used frequently.
• Perception (S) - "Entails how well you use your five senses. Observation and perception of threats and dangers. Discover ambushes, dangerous obstacles, or even notice visually strange things about people on a high success. Could be used to listen and detect scents too."
• Persuade (S)
• Pilot (P)
• Repair (P)
• Science (P) - This skill determines the chance to successfully hack computers. It could also include general scholarly knowledge of scientific subjects.
• Sleight of Hand (P) - The go-to 'thievery' skill.
• Stealth (S)
• Streetwise (P)
• Survival (S) - Like Medicine and Science, Survival might cover a bit too much for a single skill. "Proficiency at cooking, making poisons, and crafting "natural" equipment and consumables. Also yields increased benefits from food. Knowledge of this skill provides the expertise required to survive in extreme environments. Inherent is the knowledge of hunting, building shelters, hazards (such as the avoidance of poisonous plants), etc., according to the given environment. A character can follow a person, carriage, or animal over earth and through plants/leaves. Factors such as time passed since the tracks were made, rain, and the type of ground covered may affect the difficulty level. The go-to hunting skill. This skill could also be used to traverse the wilds or set simple traps. In neighboring, yet unfamiliar locations or biomes, Survival should be made one or more grades harder."
• Swim (S) - Perhaps redundant. Maybe just use Athletics, Endurance or something else instead?
• Willpower (S)

Culture

There are a number of cultures, but five basic types: Urban, Wasteland, Militant, Criminal, Nomadic. Any other name suggestions for these?
It could be relevant to try and differentiate Cultures with Cults/Brotherhood. Would "Vault Dweller" or "Brother of Steel" be more of a Culture or Cult/Brotherhood?
Urban
Urban would be the 'Civilized' one.
Culture/Lore: NCR, the Enclave, New Reno, Vault City, Shady Sands, etc.
Standard Skills: Insight, Persuade, Willpower; and four of the following: Brawn, Deceive, Endurance, Evade, Investigate, Perception.
Combat Style: Any.
Professional Skills: Art (any), Barter, Craft (any), Lore (any), Science, Streetwise.
Cultural Passions

• Nominal democracy – de facto fascism
• American exceptionalism
• The American Dream
• Rule of Law
• Freedom

Wasteland
Wasteland would be the more rural or tribal survivor.
Culture/Lore: Boomers, Children of Atom, Children of the Cathedral, Megaton, etc.
Standard Skills: Evade, Nature, Persuade, and four of the following: Athletics, Brawn, Deceive, Endurance, Insight, Investigate, Perception, Stealth, Survival.
Combat Style: Any.
Professional Skills: Animal Handling, Administer, Art (any), Barter, Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Repair, Streetwise.
Cultural Passions

• Never trust outsiders
• Unify all people under a single banner
• Eliminate the unfaithful from the world
• Ensure the safety of the tribe

Militant
Militant could include Caesar's Legion as well as the Brotherhood of Steel.
Culture/Lore: Brotherhood of Steel, Caesar's Legion, etc.
Standard Skills: Athletics, Brawn, Endurance, Evade, and three of the following: Deceive, Insight, Intimidate, Perception, Persuade, Survival, Willpower.
Combat Style: Any.
Professional Skills: Art (any), Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Pilot (any), Repair, Streetwise.
Cultural Passions

• Preserve advanced technology
• Ensure the long term stability of the faction
• Stand firm to your ideals
• Hate an enemy faction/culture

Criminal
I'm thinking raiders here mostly. This kind of overlaps a bit with most other cultures.
Culture/Lore: Fiends, Jackals, Khans, etc.
Standard Skills: Athletics, Evade, Nature, and four of the following: Barter, Brawn, Deceive, Endurance, Insight, Intimidate, Perception, Stealth, Survival.
Combat Style: Any.
Professional Skills: Art (any), Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Lockpicking, Repair, Streetwise.
Cultural Passions

• Make someone pay
• Hurt people
• “Omerta”
• Keep your friends close
• Chase the big bucks

Nomadic
This would be the more 'lone survivor' culture, or nomads traveling in small bands.
Culture/Lore: Commonwealth, Mojave, etc.
Standard Skills: Athletics, Endurance, Evade, Survival, and four of the following: Brawn, Deceive, Insight, Nature, Perception, Willpower.
Combat Style: Any.
Professional Skills: Acrobatics, Animal Handling, Art (any), Barter, Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine.
Cultural Passions

• Always keep moving
• Don’t stand out
• Loyalty to the clan, faction, leader
• Love (friend, sibling, romantic lover)
• See new places

Fame & Infamy (Reputation)

One major and great aspect of the Fallout games is the reputation you can gain from various factions.
"Fame is positive and Infamy is negative. Both types of reputation are tracked separately, the combination of which determines one's reputation with any given faction. The benefits and drawbacks of any given reputation depend on the group itself. The characters may receive discounts with merchants, provoke attacks from hired thugs, or simply be treated differently.
Points are accumulated by various means. Completing quests, helping people, and generally making oneself useful will result in accumulating positive reputation points. Negative reputation can be earned by things such as killing members of a group, being caught stealing, lying, being rude or treating people poorly, betraying the faction or completing quests for the opposite side."

Careers

With this list of careers I would like to cover most (if not all) professions in the wastelands. Is there a career you think is missing or should be renamed? Is there a career who should have their skills switched around?
Agent (Assassin, Detective, Informer, Spy)
Standard Skills: Combat Style (Small Guns or Melee Weapons), Deceive, Evade, Insight, Investigate, Perception, Stealth.
Professional Skills: Acrobatics, Culture (any), Lore (any), Disguise, Sleight of Hand, Streetwise.
Bounty Hunter (Assassin, Mercenary, Soldier of Fortune)
Standard Skills: Brawn, Combat Style (any two), Evade, Perception, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Barter, Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Streetwise.
Cook (Apothecary, Bartender, Barkeep)
Standard Skills: Combat Style (Unarmed), Endurance, Evade, Insight, Investigate, Perception, Survival.
Professional Skills: Survival; and any of the following: Art (any), Craft (any), Medicine, Sleight of Hand.
Courier (Messenger)
Couriers sometimes travel very long distances to reach their targets. You can be sure that travels are always dangerous.
Standard Skills: Combat Style (any), Endurance, Evade, Investigate, Perception, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Barter, Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Repair, Science, Sleight of Hand.
Crafter (Builder, Artificer, Artisan, Handy-man)
Standard Skills: Brawn, Endurance, Insight, Perception, Persuade, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Craft (any); and up to two of the following: Barter, Science, Sleight of Hand, Repair.
Cultist (Guru, Hermit, Priest)
Standard Skills: Combat Style (any), Endurance, Insight, Perception, Persuade, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Lore (any); and up to two of the following: Art (any), Craft (any), Science, Repair.
Doctor (Physician)
Standard Skills: Endurance, Insight, Investigate, Perception, Persuade, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Medicine; and up to two of the following: Craft (any), Science, .
Entertainer (Acrobat, Dancer, Musician, Poet, Singer)
Standard Skills: Athletics, Brawn, Deceive, Evade, Insight, Persuade, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Art (any); and up to two of the following: Acrobatics, Animal Handling, Barter, Culture (any), Lore (any), Sleight of Hand.
Farmer (Gardener, Herder, Hillbilly)
Standard Skills: Athletics, Brawn, Combat Style (any), Endurance, Perception, Survival.
Professional Skills: Art (any), Animal Handling, Craft (any), Culture (any).
Hermit (Nomad, Radio Host, Wanderer)
Standard Skills: Athletics, Combat Style (any), Endurance, Evade, Perception, Stealth, Survival.
Professional Skills: Survival; and up to two of the following: Barter, Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Repair.
Hunter (Forester, Poacher, Ranger, Scout, Trapper)
Standard Skills: Athletics, Brawn, Combat Style (any two), Investigate, Perception, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Survival; and up to two of the following: Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Repair.
Merchant (Broker, Caravan Merchant, Money Lender, Smuggler, Storekeeper, Trader, Vendor)
Merchants are the primary source of items and equipment in the wastelands, aside from scavenging or looting from dead enemies. Merchants usually specialize in a certain area such as weapons and ammunition, food, armor, and clothing. Some merchants, such as scavengers or traveling merchants, carry a wide variety of items. Merchants operate out of either fixed stores or are part of traveling caravans.
Standard Skills: Combat Style (any), Deceive, Insight, Investigate, Perception, Persuade, Survival.
Professional Skills: Barter; and up to two of the following: Art (any), Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Repair, Streetwise.
Official (Dean, Minister, Overseer, Steward, Tax Collector)
Officials are appointed or elected to an office, charged with some administrative duty.
Standard Skills: Combat Style (ranged weapon alternative), Deceive, Insight, Investigate, Perception, Persuade, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Administer, Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any).
Officer (Deputy, Sergeant, Sheriff)
Officers have a leading role in military or pseudo-military outfits. They can be police, military, criminal – self-proclaimed or appointed.
Standard Skills: Athletics, Combat Style (any two), Intimidate, Perception, Persuade, Survival.
Professional Skills: Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Streetwise.
Politician (Advisor, Conspirator, Courtier, Delegate, Diplomat, Sycophant)
Politicians serve as rulers, advisors and policy makers for settlements, factions and governments.
Standard Skills: Deceive, Evade, Insight, Intimidate, Perception, Persuade, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Administer, Barter, Culture (any), Lore (any), Streetwise.
Scavenger (Rover, Survivor, Trader)
Scavengers scour the ruins of the Great War looking for valuables to use or sell.
Standard Skills: Combat Style (any), Endurance, Evade, Investigate, Perception, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Barter; and up to two of the following: Culture (any), Lore (any), Repair, Streetwise.
Scientist (Engineer, Programmer, Scribe, Technician)
Standard Skills: Insight, Investigate, Perception, Persuade, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Science; and up to two of the following: Lore (any), Medicine, Repair.
Servant (Captive, Slave)
Standard Skills: Endurance, Evade, Insight, Perception, Persuade, Survival, Willpower.
Professional Skills: Animal Handling, Art (any), Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Repair.
Soldier (Knight, Mercenary, Ranger, Trooper)
Standard Skills: Brawn, Combat Style (any two), Evade, Endurance, Perception, Survival.
Professional Skills: Culture (any), Lore (any), Medicine, Pilot (any), Repair.
Thug (Bodyguard, Boxer, Henchman, Mobster, Raider)
Thugs often work for a criminal operation. Sometimes they work independently as thieves, pickpockets and muggers, always looking for a victim.
Standard Skills: Brawn, Combat Style (any two), Endurance, Intimidate, Perception, Survival.
Professional Skills: Animal Handling, Craft (any), Culture (any), Lore (any), Repair, Streetwise.
Thief (Bandit, Burglar, Pickpocket, Swindler)
Standard Skills: Brawn, Combat Style (any), Deceive, Evade, Investigate, Perception, Survival.
Professional Skills: Lockpicking, Lore (any), Sleight of Hand, Streetwise.
Vault Dweller (Barber, Clinical Test Subject, Crematorium Operator, Fry Cook, Hairdresser, Jukebox Technician, Laundry Cannon Operator, Little League Coach, Marriage Counselor, Masseuse, Pip-Boy Programmer, Pedicurist, Shift Supervisor, Tattoo Artist, Vault Chaplain, Vault Loyalty Inspector)
Standard Skills: Combat Style (any); one of Deceive, Intimidate and Persuade; one of Evade or Endurance;one of Investigate or Perception; one of Stealth, Survival
Professional Skills: Art (any), Craft (any), Culture (any), Lockpicking, Lore (any), Medicine, Repair, Science, Sleight of Hand.

Perks

I've added a number of Perks trying to mostly be faithful to the original perks of the games. Characters can choose a single perk during character creation, than perhaps every other progression process.
Below is a selection of perks. Consider aspects such as balance and wording.

Perk	Rank	Requirement	Description
Action Boy/Girl	1	None	You gain one additional Action Point during the first round of combat.
↘️	2	DEX or INT 14	Instead of above, you gain one additional Action Point permanently.
Adamantium Skeleton	1	CON 13, non-robot	Your skeleton has been infused with indestructible metal. All your limbs Hit Locations receive +2 natural armor.
↘️	2	CON 15	When taking a Serious Wound to a limb, you roll Endurance twice versus the attack, taking the better result.
↘️	3	CON 17	All your limbs Hit Locations receive +4 natural armor (instead of +2).
Center Mass	1	DEX 14	Fire straight! When you make a ranged attack, you may choose to strike the target’s abdomen or chest location. Decide before you shoot. You do not need the ‘Choose Location’ Special Effect, but you may only do this once per Combat Round.
Educated	1	INT 12	As you learn, you grow. You gain one additional Experience roll during progression.
Gun Fu	1	DEX 13	You've learned to apply ancient martial arts to gunplay! When you succeed at a ranged attack with a gun, you may use that same level of success on a second target during the following turn but the same round. You cannot use any Special Effects on the second attack.
↘️	2	DEX 14	As above and increase the damage to the second target by +2.
↘️	3	DEX 15	When you succeed at a ranged attack with a gun, you may use that same level of success on a second and third target during the following turns but the same round. You cannot use any Special Effects on these attacks. Increase the damage to the second and third targets by +4 (instead of 2).
Inspirational	1	CHA 12	Because you lead by example, you and all your allies may reroll one Experience roll each during progression.
↘️	2	CHA 13	Your allies cannot harm you with attacks and can’t be harmed by your attacks.
↘️	3	CHA 14	You may spend 1 Luck Point to have an ally reroll an Endurance or Willpower roll.
Intense Training	1	80 % in at least one skill	Increase one of your characteristics by 1 point.
Light Footed	1	DEX 12	While sneaking, you never trigger mines or floor-based traps.
↘️	2	DEX 14, POW 12	You roll Stealth at decreased difficulty.
Mister Sandman	1	DEX 14	You are an agent of death. Your silenced weapons do an additional +1D4 in damage against surprised foes.
↘️	2	DEX 15	Your silenced weapons do an additional +1D6 (instead of +1D4) in damage against surprised foes.
Night Person	1	None	You are a creature of the night! Reduce any difficulty increase due to nightly darkness by one.
↘️	2	None	You gain +2 INT and POW during the hours of 6:00 p.m. and 6:00 a.m.
↘️	3	None	You gain +3 INT and POW (instead of +2) during the hours of 6:00 p.m. and 6:00 a.m.
Pain Train	1	STR 15, CON 12	Choo Choo! All aboard! While wearing Power Armor and taking the Charge action, all enemies in your path have to roll an Endurance or Evade roll. On a failure, they take 1D4 damage + damage modifier and are staggered for one round. Robots and enemies with a combined SIZ+STR above 35 are immune to the stagger.
↘️	2	STR 16	The Endurance or Evade roll is made at one degree higher difficulty. The damage is increased to 1D6 (instead of 1D4).
↘️	3	STR 17	The damage is increased to 1D10 (instead of 1D6). On a failure, they are also knocked prone. Only enemies with a combined SIZ+STR above 45 are immune to the stagger.
Paralyzing Palm	1	Unarmed 70 %	Your unarmed attacks gain the ‘Paralysing’ weapon trait.
Quick Hands	1	DEX 15	In combat, there's no time to hesitate. The Load time for guns is 1 lower.
Shotgun Surgeon	1	Small Guns 50 %	And I started blasting. As a critical Special Effect, your shotgun shot can gain the ‘Armor Piercing’ trait.
↘️	2	Small Guns 75 %	When you take the ‘Maximize Damage’ Special Effect, the opponent also has to roll Endurance or become staggered for a round.
↘️	3	Small Guns 90 %	On a critical success, your shotgun shot automatically gains the ‘Bonus Limb Damage’ weapon trait.
Steady Aim	1	STR 12, DEX 11	Stay on target! Hip fire accuracy is improved when firing any ranged weapon. Whenever you spend a Luck point to alter your ranged attacks, you automatically gain the ‘Maximize Damage’ Special Effect.
Terrifying Presence	1	SIZ 12, STR 10, CHA 12	You may take two actions to make an opposed Intimidation roll against an opponent’s Willpower. On a success, the opponent flees in fear. They must move away from you during this round of combat.
↘️	2	One of SIZ, STR or CHA at least 15	When you roll Intimidation, you may reroll once.

Weaponry

I've always seen weapon descriptions from Mythras to be a bit lacking (or rather confusing for newcomers) when it comes to weapon traits and Special Effects. For instance, most bladed melee weapons in Mythras are listed to have either the Bleed or Impale Special Effects (or both), making one assume that they are restricted from other Special Effects.
I don't have a solution to this, though, and I wouldn't want to list every single Special Effect for every single weapon. Either way, below are some selected Weapon tables without any Special Effects listed.
All costs is in bottle caps and straight from New Vegas. At a glance, some weapons seem very overpriced or under-priced, but there are factors such as ammo scarcity and other properties that come into effect.
One Handed Weapons

Weapon	Damage	Size	Reach	ENC	AP/HP	Traits	Cost
Bowie Knife	1D8+1	M	S	1	6/10		1000
Cattle Prod	1D4	S	S	1	10/10	Fatigue Damage	450
Cleaver	1D3	S	S	1	5/4		20
Chopper	1D4+1	S	S	1	5/6		800
Combat Knife	1D6	S	S	1	5/8		500
Hatchet	1D6	S	S	1	4/6		75
Knife	1D3	S	S	-	5/4		20
Lead Pipe	1D8	S	S	2	6/8		75
Machete	1D6+1	M	M	1	6/10		50
Police Baton	1D6+1	M	M	1	6/12		70
Ripper	1D10	M	M	1	6/12		1200
Rolling Pin	1D3	S	S	1	3/3		10
Shishkebab	1D10	M	M	5	6/12	Immolate (1D3)	2500
Tire Iron	1D4+1	S	S	1	4/6		40
War Club	1D8	S	S	1	4/8		75

Small Guns (Pistols)

Weapon	Damage	Range	Firing Rate	ENC	Ammo	Load	Cost
.357 Magnum Revolver	1D6	50/100/200	1	1	6	3	110
.44 Magnum Revolver	1D10	50/100/200	1	1	6	3	2500
.35 Auto Pistol	1D8	50/100/200	1	1	7	3	1750
5.56mm Pistol	1D6+1	50/100/200	1	1	5	3	1200
12.7mm pistol	1D12	50/100/200	1	1	7	3	400
Hunting Revolver	1D8+1	50/100/200	1	1	5	3	3500
M&A 9mm Pistol	1D8	50/100/200	1	1	13	3	1750
N99 10mm pistol	1D8	50/100/200	1	1	12	3	750
Ranger Sequoia	1D8+2	50/100/200	1	1	5	3	1200
Police Pistol	1D6+1	50/100/200	1	1	6	3	1000
Silenced .22 Pistol	1D6+1	50/100/200	1	1	16	3	80

Other Stuff

Creating Cults/Brotherhoods from scratch is something I haven't had time to do thus far.
I've created a radiation mechanic that works like this: Eating and drinking most food items or entering an irradiated zone gives the player radiation poisoning, or ‘RADs’. Characteristics drop at certain thresholds, and radiation poisoning kills the character at 100 rads.
There are five thresholds (20, 40, 60, 80, and 100 rads).

Rads	Level	Effect
0-19	No Effect	-
20-39	Minor Radiation Poisoning	-1 CON
40-59	Advanced Radiation Poisoning	-2 CON, -1 DEX
60-79	Critical Radiation Poisoning	-3 CON, -2 DEX, -1 STR
80-99	Deadly Radiation Poisoning	-3 CON, -2 DEX, -2 STR
100+	Fatal Radiation Poisoning	Death

Rad exposure is usually limited; only very rarely will zones be so irradiated that venturing into them results in a quick death. One needs to stand in +1 rad water for a significant time and more generally it is possible to move through radioactive water dozens of times before reaching the 20 rad threshold.
When exposed to radiation, per the GM:s decree a roll of Endurance should be made. The difficulty grade depends on the level of radiation. How often these rolls are made are up to the GM but in the table below there is an estimated period of which a new roll should be made.

Level of Radiation	Period	Difficulty	Effect (Critical, Success, Failure, Fumble)
Minor Radiation	Every hour of exposure	Easy	0, 0, 1, 3
Major Radiation	Every hour of exposure	Standard	0, 1, 1D10, 10
Critical Radiation	Every 20 minutes of exposure	Standard	0, 2, 1D10+1, 11
Deadly Radiation	Every 10 minutes of exposure	Hard	0, 3, 1D10+2, 12
Fatal Radiation	Every minute of exposure	Formidable	0, 6, 1D10+5, 15

Adding to this are ways to lower your radiation poisoning (paying a doctor, using RadAway, etc.), and having your Radiation Resistance improved through clothing, armor or chems.
I have more tables on this and that but reddit formatting is killing me.
TL;DR I'm in the process of working on a Fallout game/setting using the Mythras ruleset. In this post I will present my ideas so far and include a bit of my design thoughts and processes. This will be presented through headings, ranging from Skills, Careers and Perks. Feel free to critique and discuss ideas!
Edits: Formatting, added Characteristics summary.

I'm running into quite a bit of trouble with materials. I'm building two units of computer fans:
4x120mm fans = 480x120mm unit each with 15mm height.
I have 3D printed screwless connectors to join the fans together on one side, but they aren't rigid enough to avoid drooping so I'm trying to add something along the sides as reforcement of some kind.
I've tried wooden yard sticks halved down each axis and then using the four pieces as the reinforcing bars on each side of the fan arrays, but haven't been able to get the fans and wood to bond adequately.
10mm MakerBeam: This is excellent, but the connectors that the beams use to attach things won't seem to cooperate and attach to the fans so I can't get them to attach to the supports.
I'm having trouble finding anything of note on Google or Bind or even Reddit for that matter as the DIYness and project being an array of computer case fans makes for an extremely restricted potential pool of information.
Can anyone recommend some kind of material like this, for example, if I could get a better bond with epoxy thin, narrow steel machinist rulers would work very well, that would easily bond steel to plastic with accommodation as necessary to compensate for the fans being in motion and/or vibration for a few years?
(I read the posting guidelines on the sidebar and believe my post falls within the rules, but if it doesn't I'm more than willing to make adjustments where needed).

So I did the stacking Philippine peso coin method to measure how much of a gap do I have between my 40mm tires and the frame. I was able to wedge 5 peso coins on both sides.
Using the fact that Philippine peso coins have a thickness of 2.05mm, 2.05mm x 5 = 10.25 mm. Which means I have a gap of 10.25mm on each side. Doubled checked on a ruler and it showed a width of 10mm (wasn’t able to use the ruler to measure the width since it was too cramped to measure properly)
If I were to install 48 or 50mm wide tires, it would only add a 4-5mm difference on each side (since 48 - 40 = 8 and 50 - 40 = 10. Divide the difference by both sides of a tire so 8/2 = 4 and 10/2 = 5.)
Using this information, will I be able to put 48-50mm wide tires on my frame? Or did I make an error in my calculations? (Disregard the mud clearance since I rarely go mudding)

So I did the stacking peso coin method to measure how much of a gap do I have between my 40mm tires and the frame. I was able to wedge 5 peso coins on both sides.
Using the fact that peso coins have a thickness of 2.05mm, 2.05mm x 5 = 10.25 mm. Which means I have a gap of 10.25mm on each side. Doubled checked on a ruler and it showed a width of 10mm (wasn’t able to use the ruler to measure the width of the gap between my frame and tires since it was too cramped to measure properly)
If I were to install 48 or 50mm wide tires, it would only add a 4-5mm difference on each side (since 48 - 40 = 8 and 50 - 40 = 10. Divide the difference by both sides of a tire so 8/2 = 4 and 10/2 = 5.)
Using this information, will I be able to put 48-50mm wide tires on my frame? Or may nagawa akong mali sa computations ko?
(Disregard nalang the mud clearance since minsan lang ako mag mudding)

I have a number of .tif files of tissue samples that were imaged with a physical ruler, and wrote a short macro that loops through each image individually to call a function that prompts the user to draw a line equal to 10mm on the ruler, use the length of the line to set the scale of the image, and then save the image. The macro runs fine but does not change the scale in either the saved image or the actively open image, and I can't figure out why. Would really appreciate a new pair of eyes on this.
Here is the function that the loop calls:
function set_scale(TIFFfile, filename) {

`setTool("line");` `waitForUser("Draw a line equal to 10mm on the ruler in the image. When done, press OK");` `// Calculate length of line drawn by user and apply to scale` `getLine(x1, y1, x2, y2, lineWidth);` `dx = x2-x1; dy = y2-y1;` `length = sqrt(dx*dx+dy+dy);` `run("Set Scale...", "distance =" + length + "known = 10 unit = mm");` `saveAs("tiff", mydir + "Quantified/" + filename);` 

}

I tried to buy one for $13.45 CAD on the website but they don’t ship to Canada. So I looked it up on Amazon and they want twice as much. So, here are the dimensions to cut one into your own mini disc marker of your own:
Height: 73 mm Outside width: 23 mm Inside width (at ‘notch points’): 17mm Top to first notch: 10mm Top to second notch: 33 mm Top to third notch: 50mm
I took a ruler to a piece of paper and drew this out. Then I taped it to a mini disc and cut it out with a box cutter.
Works like a charm.
(Edit): spelling

I have already written about this on their forum, but it seems to have been largely ignored.
Over a year had passed, a whole new version of the whole suite was released, yet mm rulers still remain largely unusable. I run into this pretty much every time I use Affinity programs, and its infuriating.
Here is an example, lets say you want to set a guide on 15mm.
In any normal program, you would zoom in until 1 delimeter would be equal to 1mm, then find 10mm mark, and 15mm would be the 5th delimeter after it, and it will be highlighted with a longer line, so you can find it instantly.
But not in Affinity!
First of all, there aren't any zoom levels where the difference between 10 and 20mm will be 10 delimeters. It will be 20 instead, so each one would equal 0.5mm, never 1mm. You can get it to be 1mm if you zoom out so that instead of 0, 10 and 20mm you get 0, 20, and 40mm. By itself this might not be a problem, but there is more!
Now, we can ignore this and just use the central point which will still be highlighted with a longer line, the central one between 10 and 20, and would indicate 15mm, right? WRONG! Central point is not highlighted at all! The ones which are highlighted with longer lines are: 12, 14, 16 and 18mm So, to find a center, you need to go to the 2nd highlighted delimeter - 14mm, and from there 2 regular 0.5mm delimeters to the right, and that would be 15mm..........
But wait, it gets worse! Lets say you did zoom out so that 1 delimeter = 1mm, and you have 0, 20, 40, etc. points marked with numbers. Now, you need to find 27mm. Should be easy enough, first highlighted point after 20mm should be 25mm, so 2 points to the right would be 27mm, right? WRONG! First highlighted point is 24mm instead of 25, so the usual logic which relies on the rulers being marked properly would get 26mm instead of 27mm. 30mm is also not marked in any way btw By Affinity logic, you would need to go to the 2nd highlighted point, which would be 28mm (why? who knows), and go 1 point to the left from that to get 27mm
But wait, it gets worse! How could it possibly get any worse you might ask? Easy - it appears that the devs already have a proper ruler marking scheme, if you choose cm instead of mm as measurement units! It still doesn't highlight the central point between numbered delimeters, so that between 1cm and 2cm, 1.5cm point is not highlighted at all, but otherwise its way better. So the devs deliberately chose to use a much worse scheme for mm rulers, and then to ignore user feedback about this for years
Examples in images:

• Adobe Illustrator ruler (or just about any program in existance)
• Affinity ruler

As a mental exercise, try pinpointing 53mm on Affinity ruler without counting every delimiter 1 by 1 from either 40 or 60mm. Keep in mind that none of those highlighted delimeters with longer lines are 50mm, 50mm point is not highlighted in any way

I've run into an issue for the first time and I'm hoping someone here has some insight. I'm used to dealing with stuck or dead pixels, and other QC problems, but this is the first time that there is what appears to be a 'hair' or something visible under the screen of my new Lenovo Q27h-10 monitor. The photo with the ruler is of the current monitor (https://i.imgur.com/Uo9H0Ef.jpg) and the photo with the larger 'hair' and no ruler is of the previous one that was replaced (https://i.imgur.com/O4DdCAE.jpg).
Initially I thought it was a hair that had found its way in there during assembly but after getting a replacement from Lenovo with what appears to be the same or similar enough issue, I'm not sure what to think. Unless QC is quite poor which it very well may be, it seems really strange that this happened to me twice in a row, when I've never experienced this with any other monitor I've purchased from Lenovo or any other company.
The 'hair' or object this second time around is thankfully much more faint and smaller (~1-2mm) than the last time (~15-10mm), and not centrally located. It almost seems like a faint pencil mark. It's off to the side and less noticeable but immediately visible when I look at it. I'm inclined to keep this one because if I choose to return this, the only option left is a refund and then I'm back to where I started looking for a new monitor that fits all my requirements including the price range.
My main worry is that the issue is something else and this defect/damage is some sort of burn or something along those lines, and that it will expand or replicate elsewhere on the screen. If it happens in the next year during the warranty period, that should be fine, but after that I would have no recourse.

Hi all
i have ran into a problem whilst installing my gpu in my fractal torrent compact
The graphics card claims to be 326mm long and the case claims to fit 330mm gpu's, i though perfect - just enough room.
well apparently the merc cart is actually more like 336 when measured?, measured with multiple tapes and rulers and confirmed their reliability with a vernier. the card is 10mm bigger than stated and as such i cant wit it with both fans in front
it would be stupid to return the card as i used a £50 amazon deal on it (i cant get back)
​
what would your suggestions be? 1 big fan on front and on below, or buy an extra one - like £40 and have on on front 2 on bottom?

Hello all, hoping I can crowdsource some information I need regarding the Chessex 10mm mini dice. I make dice boxes and other items and am working on a miniature version for mini dice, a sort of pocket dice box. I have some 8mm metal dice but I don't yet have set of the Chessex 10mm to measure.
If anyone has a set would you be willing to measure corner to corner and face to opposite face of the D20, mm with calipers preferably but if you can snag a pic next to ruler that would work too.
Unless someone here happens to know these measurements, I need both and would be very grateful

EDIT - Hop to the bottom of the post to see the solution.
I'm trying to puzzle my way through problems with auto bed leveling on my Ender 3 Pro with a BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 2.0 board. For whatever reason, I can't seem to get Auto Bed Leveling to work how I'd expect.
The first issue is with probe placement. I'm using a BL Touch, and when it goes to probe the bed for a bilinear mesh, it samples points from significantly forward and to the left of the actual bed, to the point that it gives me an out-of-bounds error (though it does just barely strike the bed, avoiding disaster). This is despite having set the probe offset after calculating it with calipers. Ironically, when it performs a safe home, it does so from the center while using the probe. How can I get it to center the mesh properly over the bed?
The second issue is what predicated me trying to compile a new firmware. For whatever reason, the ABL feature doesn't work correctly. No matter what I try, if I tell it to auto level, it will generate a mesh that's too high on the right rear and too low on the left-front corner. So the first layer comes out crispy and gouged in the right-rear and floaty/disconnected in the left front. I can compensate manually, but if I ABL again, it does the same thing.
This is all after tramming the heck out of the frame and the bed, checking the bed with a long ruler to see if it's warped, and recompiling the firmware with various settings. I can see that it's _trying_ to use the mesh it builds, because I can watch it make subtle changes to the Z axis as it travels horizontally, but I can't seem to convince it to retain the correct values for what should be a sub-1mm variance across the surface.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Here's a link to my configuration files.

EDIT - Figured it out.

The issue was the bed travel limits and the X/Y offsets. The Ender 3 Pro with a default bed/nozzle configuration has the nozzle home off the edge of the bed. I had set the home position using options on the LCD, and while this seems to work for _printing_, it's clearly ignoring them for Auto Bed Leveling.
For an Ender 3 Pro, these are my values:

#define X_MIN_POS -1 #define Y_MIN_POS -7 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS 245 #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POS 250 

One key feature of this configuration is X_MAX_POS. The Ender 3 can move the nozzle beyond the edge of the bed on the right side by about 13 MM before impacting the gantry. I added 10MM to X_MAX_POS, and this helped a TON with the ABL offset issue. It still can't get the probe all the way to the right side of the bed, but it's a lot closer than it was before.
For the front edge, the Y_MIN_POS -7 resolved the issue with it probing too close to the front of the bed, because it now realizes that it homes to somewhere out-of-bounds and needs to advance an extra 7MM before calculating it's margins.
I ran another ABL after making these adjustments and held a caliper to it as it went. The margins along everything but the right edge are millimeter perfect to 15 MM probing margin I designated in #define PROBING_MARGIN 15, and much closer along the right edge than before.

For a bit of background, I'm a third year mech e student, 90 or so credits complete. Somehow, miraculously, I still have a 4.0, which I'm really pleased about. I wouldn't care too much if I lost it, and it's not like it's something that I intentionally strive for, I just try my hardest in all my classes and so far it's worked out. I've taken more than my fair share of difficult classes, diff eq, dynamics, fluids, the list goes on and on as I'm sure y'all know. Because I transferred to my current college, I was missing a few freshman level classes, and I've been taking them here and there since I started. One of those was a graphics/CAD class. It's a 100 level course, all my friends who took it with different professors said it was beyond easy, and there's really no reason it would have to be difficult.
However, for some reason, my professor takes this goofy class so seriously, turned it into a damn nightmare. She started the class by saying "don't worry, it's not an art class, you won't be judged by your drawing skills", but that's literally all it's been. I've barely learned any CAD, 70% of the class has been super tedious hand drawing assignments and memorizing rules for hand-drawing. We're not allowed to use rulers/edges, everything has to be drawn completely by hand and you lose points if you use a straight edge. You also lose points if your lines are even slightly bent or curved or imperfect. You also lose points if your lines aren't dark enough, even though the only way to turn in assignments is by uploading them, and pencil lines don't always come through a scanner or scanner app perfectly. You lose points if your arrowheads are too big or too small. You lose points if your circles aren't perfectly circular (no compass allowed, lose points for using a compass). You lose points if your dimensions aren't 10mm away from the thing you're drawing. You lose points if your dashed lines have too-short dashes, you also lose points if you have too-long dashes. I'd even understand if we were being graded on the drawings being correct, but no - 99% of the time we're being graded on minor cosmetic flaws.
Every day of class there's an hour long memorization-based quiz to complete, multiple drawing assignments that take hours. The textbook is utter garbage, and we're assigned like, 100 pages a week more or less to read, with the quizzes consisting of obscure vocab words buried somewhere in the reading or other idiotic fluff - "In a concentric design model, which of the following is included in the concurrent design phase but not the ideation sub-phase?". The midterms (no materials allowed) follow the same format.
Attendance is mandatory, and this professor doesn't record lectures, even though we have full panopto capabilities in all of the classrooms and it's strongly encouraged by the school. Oh yeah, and an unexcused absence is 5 whole points off of your total grade.
Pretty sure I did poorly on the midterm, definitely missed a bunch of multiple choice questions because I didn't spend a week memorizing tons and tons of vocab and 1990s looking flow charts out of the textbook. Right now it's showing as a 50, but they usually take a month or so to grade so I have no idea if that's including the drawings or not.
I'm a good student, I work really hard for all of my classes. Of course I know that failure is a part of engineering school, I don't expect to keep my good grades forever and I really wouldn't care that much if I tried my hardest and got a bad grade in a difficult engineering class.. but my god, I'll be so damn annoyed if I lose my GPA over imperfections in my hand-draw circles and arrows. I just wanted to learn about solidworks, was that so much to ask?
Why is it always the BS classes that turn out like this?

Based on my accurate measurements for 2 years now, I grow consistently about 10% of new skin a month. This means, every month I tug, I consistently gain about 10% of new skin from the skin that was under tension.
The measurements are from tugging about 40-50mm of inner skin, and measuring in the fully erect and fully stretched out skin. I gain about 4-5mm a month on my measurement ruler. Remember, 4-5mm of stretched out skin, which will be about 2-2.5 mm of skin when not stretched out, but its still 10%.
Most of you will probably not even come close to this because you are probably not using optimal conditions. I stress the word probably because I have not run tests on sub-optimal conditions and I can not say for sure if I could get those same 10% gains every month unless I did the sub-optimal tugging. I just don't want to waste time here to even experiment using sub-optimal tugging as I already used to tug using sub-optimal conditions by using devices, not using 24/7, and I had very poor results at that time.
Now, if anyone is wondering, what are optimal conditions and why have I always had such rapid skin growth after changing to these methods.

1. 24/7 tugging, Yes, you need to tug 24/7 and any breaks you take will limit your progress. I really believe this as when I did not do 24/7, I had poor results. 24/7 also means not taking any breaks, not even a day off. I tug for months and months without a single day off.
2. T-taping, I just see no other way to do 24/7 comfortably and reliably without T-tapes. This is especially at night. Devices will also slip and will change which skin is being tensioned and you will not be doing 24/7 on the same skin.
3. Using enough tension. This is enough tension where if you pinch the skin under tension it will feel sore. You don't need to use extreme amount of tension as I lowered my tension and still have the same 10% gains.
4. Making sure you attach the T-tapes to the same exact spot so you are tensioning the same skin 24/7 and the same exact skin after replacing the T-tapes. I use a surgical marker that I keep the same line around my penis for months at a time. I always apply the T-tape centered over this line. Without this, I would not tension the same exact skin.
5. Using T-tape that doesn't slip and change it when it starts to slip. The best tape I found is hypafix, but mefix may work as well. Any other tape will slowly slip and not tension the same skin. Devices will also slip. Slippage usually happens when you jolt the tugging strap, pushing high forces through the device, it will just rip the skin out of a device or T-tape.
6. Constantly adjusting tension, to make sure its always high enough. I am always checking my tension at least every 30 minutes to make sure I have enough tension and making my strap lighter or tighter. This takes a second and I'm easily able to adjust to make sure I can keep proper tension for 24/7.

Using those methods above, I have gotten 10% growth in my measurements every single months consistently. Please take note that its probably more like 21/7, as I do have some down times, but I try to minimize those as much as I can.
If you use devices, don't do 24/7, you are probably not going to get the same gains. I started with devices and had poor results and did hundreds of hours of research before I figured out the above and most of this was based on people who discovered the above worked best for them. When I did the above, my gains were just amazing every month. They were like "holy shit", thats a big difference. Before, it was like, "did I grow anything".
Again, I did not experiment using different methods, so if you are getting about 10% skin growth a month on the skin that is under tension, then you are probably having close to optimal results. If you are not getting around 10% consistently, then your methods are sub-optimal and you are going to have a very long restoration duration.
One other important thing here is tensioning outer skin. When I first started to T-tape, I was tensioning outer skin, and my results were extremely fast. I did not measure skin gains back then though. However, when tensioning outer skin, you very well may be tensioning 80-100mm of skin or more and I was probably getting around 10mm of stretched out skin growth at the time because of the rapid results I had, but I was not growing any inner skin and that is more important if you lack proper inner skin coverage.
The most important question is, why do I waste my time writing these posts when nobody seems to change their ways? What I can determine is most people just don't want the hassle of using T-tapes, or the hassle of tugging at night. Tugging for me 24/7, is fairly easy, but its a bit of extra work that I guess most people don't want to deal with.
I just can't understand why more people who are having bad results are not trying everything they can and using 24/7 T-taping. When I had poor results after trying multiple devices, I would have tried anything and nobody was telling me how to get rapid results either. I had to figure that out on my own. I'm trying to make it so clear to you guys who are not having the 10% skin growth a month what to do and how to get it., If you do the above, you will have 10% skin growth a month, so unless you are getting those kind of results, then you better consider switching if you want to shorten the duration.

Hey! I'm trying to start working on a new blanket project, I have 2 yarns of very different weight, a 4 (with like 10+ wraps per inch, very skinny no ruler 🥺) and a 6? (like 4 wpi) that I wanted to use for a very simple but lacy blanket. The original pattern that inspired me has been lost to time, but I remembered it well enough to kinda make a sample swatch, but I'm pretty sure I need a taller stitch. What I'm using is basically foundation chain with the 6, then alternating rows of tc with the 4 (1:1 stitch ratio, willing to bring it up to 2:1) and tc for the 6. I feel like the tc isn't tall enough for the skinny yarn, and would like maybe a diagram for some taller stitches? I definitely want some opinions on how to use different hook sizes in the same project, since these yarns are so different from each other, the 10mm hook is difficult to use for the skinny one, and the changing hole sizes won't really be a problem.

I have some mid-century SteelCase office chairs that have casters I'd like to replace. Ideally with the newer roller-blade style wheels. There are dozens upon dozens of options with 7/16" stems on Amazon for modern chairs, but--at least from what I can tell via my ruler and some googling--older steelcase chairs are using 3/8" stems.
Now, a lot of Amazon sellers are selling "3/8 stems for ikea chairs" but those aren't correct, as Ikea is using 10mm stems, which is larger than 3/8.
I can find old-style casters out there with 3/8 stems.
So, the question: Anyone know of replacement roller-blade style caster wheel replacements for vintage office chairs that use the 3/8" (non-threaded) stem sizes?