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We achieved retirement income (4% rule) > retirement expenses. These expenses include a mortgage which will be paid off in a few years. And the income does not include my SS. Wife is already retired.
Well, I’m only 55 and I’m leaving so much on the table by retiring today. My employer contributes to a pension and 401k matches a lot, on top of a pretty descent salary and bonus. 55-60 are the golden years for pension contribution. I’m shoveling a lot of my salary into my Roth right now since we’ve trimmed our expenses down. The mortgage is only 1.875%, and while I’d love to pay it off - it just doesn’t make sense when I’m getting ~5% on my money market. Anyway - the numbers keep getting better every month I keep working.
So what’s the problem? Well, since we achieved FI last year, I loath going to work for a narcissistic boss who doesn’t take advantage of my capabilities. I woke up this morning with such severe depression about having to login, that I contemplated calling it quits. I feel this way a lot, and it would be different if I HAD to work - put my head-down and do what I need to do. But I don’t need to.
I loved my job for the better part of the 24 years I’ve been with this company and maintain hope things will change. To be clear: great company, horrible boss.
Achieving FI I feel has made me weak and unwilling to fight against a bad boss. As they say people don’t leave bad jobs, they leave bad bosses - and it angers me that this one person could keep me from finishing a successful career on a high note with a lot more $$$ in the coffers.
I’d like to hear from those that continued to push through adversity at work even after achieving FI. Or those that said F-it, I’m done.

With MyFedLoad withdrawing, my loans were transferred over to Mohela. While their website really sucked (way too much information trying to be pushed to people who didn't need it), it had two things that worked out for me: - I applied for SAVE and the process was really smooth. I was approved for a $0 payment which was amazing. - I could see how many payments had been applied to each loan.
Being able to see that progress towards the loans possibly being wiped out was amazing. And thanks to COVID, my loans all got that ~3 years of "successful payments" which was a-maz-ing. I remember looking at one point and all of my loans were at 43 and 44 of 120 and I was like "This could actually happen one day! I might be free of student loans before I retire!" (not that I'm anywhere near retirement, but kind of like a mortgage, it's one of those things that just seems to loom forever).
I want to be clear about something. I'm not against paying back my student loans. I understand that I took out this debt that that it was my responsibility to pay it back. My biggest problem was that I enrolled in two schools that totally took advantage of students (in different ways, least). The first school, I paid $18k for 6 months where $12k of it went to housing (yes, $2k/mo for student housing and this was back in 2010!) and the second I paid ~$13k for a school that over promised and under delivered. Both also used Pell Grant and the 2nd using State Grants as well.
In April 2023, I lost my job. I was on Unemployment between April and October. Yes, more than 26 weeks, but that was because I was doing freelance work on the side to make money to pay for large expenses that came up (thank you leaking pipe!).
In October 2023, the fun started. I received notice my SAVE needed to be renewed. I gathered all the paperwork I could to show my income and submitted it to the system. At the same time, I received a notice that my loans were put on Forbearance, which was confusing because my IDR still had time left on it.
I submitted all the paperwork I could think of to show my current financial situation. A week later my SAVE was rejected. I thought I might have done something wrong, so I re-submitted. This request then sat until I later called in January 2024 to see what the hold up was.
While on this call, I also talked with the rep about why some of my loans were on Forbearance and some were still on SAVE. I also asked if she knew why some were 44 and others were 43, because they should all be even. She had no idea on either, but said that she would send a request for the account to be reviewed.
Oh boy did my account get reviewed.
So first, I got approved for SAVE. But only on the loans that weren't in Forbearance.
But then I noticed my payment history was reset on ALL of my loans. Instead of the 43/44 months that had been there, they went to 13 payments! What the flying f---?
Before the "transition" was announced, I sent an email to Mohela Support asking them to look into the issues.
I received an email on May 1st letting me know that "A secure message has been delivered to your Mailbox regarding your MOHELA account.". Course can't freaking read it because their system is in "transition". And guess what didn't get carried into the new system? You guess it! That response.
Over the weekend I received an email that the my "transition" was complete. Today I was able to login for the first time and look around.
I also received an email from Mohela saying my SAVE application had been declined, which makes me so confused since I didn't have an option request for one. Only for them to fix the one I already was approved for.
With the new system, the count for number of payments has been completely removed.
I have 0 faith in Mohela. I feel like they are just a company that is here to screw over borrowers.
I'm giving them a week to reply to a new email (might try calling them, haven't decided) and then I'm filing a complaint against them.

What's the best JOINT cash management account? Or are there HYSAs that function like a joint checking account and allow both partners to deposit and pay mortgage/CC/daycare/etc?
I've come across Fidelity CMA which offers 2.7% APY and joint account features - is the the best option?
I've read great reviews on Wealthfront, but they unfortunately don't have joint accounts at this time - my spouse wouldn't be able to have a separate login to deposit or withdraw.

Back at it a bit!
This turned out to be a bit more work than expected:) Happy to help, for further personal questions, please don't hesitate to drop me a DM and happy to help there. Will try to login tonight if there are more questions to answer!
No idea if there are questions for this. But I see a lot of posts about the housing/mortgage market in Amsterdam and the Netherlands, and unfortunately a lot of the answers are incomplete or wrong.
Source; one of the owners of a mortgage broker and have been advising on mortgages for the last 15 years. Mainly specialized in (foreign) entrepeneurial income but ofcourse the more standard applications fall also under this.

This may have a simple answer but I’ve seen so many videos online saying how it’s a good idea to overpay on your monthly mortgage payments as by doing so you can drastically reduce the amount you pay off and the time period in which your mortgage is paid over. I’m just wondering how I go about doing this? I’m planning to pay an extra £100-£150 a month. Will I have an account I can login to with my lender to manually adjust the monthly payments? Or will I need to contact them directly to do this? Hoping this is straightforward to do but have never been shown how to - any help is appreciated!

I wanted to share my experience with US Bank altitude reserve card. I have a credit score of 827 (vantage 3.0) and credit utilization of 3%. Have a credit history of 9 years average and oldest account of over 20 years. Have 100% track record of on time payment. Have a home mortgage (2 year old) and a car lease (1 month old). I’ve never had any issues getting approved for credit cards - even premium ones. Currently have Chase sapphire reserve as my premium card and various other ones.
Given this background, I decided to get USBAR. My intention was to cancel Sapphire Reserve and replace it with USBAR as I feel that I wasn’t getting too much out of my sapphire. Applied for USBAR and was immediately rejected. This was my first time ever getting rejected for any card! I thought there was surely something wrong and concluded that it might be because I had my credit locked for all unions except Equifax.
Called them to check but they could not provide rejection reason on the phone and said I’ll receive a letter in the mail. Seven days later I got a generic letter saying I was rejected due to too much credit utilization, poor score and some more generic reasons. Didn’t make sense at all. Based on others experiences on reddit I called customer service again and asked for a manual review. They were very hesitant to entertain my request, but I insisted and was transferred to an underwriter. She looked at my application and remarked ‘ it looks like you went car shopping’. Automated system declined my application as it saw a recent credit pull! She transferred my application to another underwriter for manual review.
I was Approved after three days. it’s over seven days now from the date of approval but I still haven’t received my card.
Here’s what I find really quirky. They sent me multiple emails About my card being approved and that I should download the app and create an account. They also sent me emails with tracking information a couple times. With all these emails is that I don’t have an existing relationship with U.S. Bank. I don’t have an account and they did not give me my account number or card number.
There is no way to create online account without knowing my card number. What’s even worse is that all my card tracking emails don’t have an actual tracking number but redirect to my non-existent account. Why do you need me to login to an account t to see tracking info. Just give the USPS tracking number in the email.
Anyways, I’m eagerly waiting to get my card and cancel Sapphire reserve before my annual fee hits my account.

Hey y’all! My friend recently got scammed about $10000 for a mortgage scam that was using an actual lending company name in our area. Thankfully they didn’t get her social or bank login information and she has reported it but how can one notice they are a fake company using a real business name? She realized it was a scam once they said the wire couldn’t go through so she called her bank and was asking the company for certain numbers and codes and they stated that they would instead send her a parcel full of cash. Thankfully she was on the phone with her bank and blocked them immediately. They also did notify the actual lender who they thought they were working with and the true company have reported them as well. My friend is a single momma who has two babies and she worked so hard and has saved for so long so any advice would be greatly appreciated in how to avoid this in the future. No hate please. She already feels bad enough about this situation.

So I hope this post is a breath of fresh air for the subscribers that look for less venting and more offering help with adulting!
So, I live with my mom in my childhood home in South Florida. Her and my dad were initially renting and in 2005 purchased the house with a thirty year mortgage. My dad had passed away early 2013 and she is the only name associated with the house when I login to the banks account to submit the payment every month.
I’ve been helping with making payments since I started working 11 years ago, and we’ve been paying specifically half and half each month since 11/2017.
My mom is getting to that age that she brings up the inevitable more and more - “I’m not always going to be here and should that day come earlier than expected, where are you going to live if you’re not tied to the house/mortgage/etc.?”
So, I’m looking to be guided in the right direction/get clarification: where do we go from here? I do know we have to get a lawyer involved and possibly make a court appearance, but what exactly is it we’re trying to accomplish, if the goal is when the day comes that she passes away, that I take over making payments on my own on the existing mortgage? Is that even possible? I’ve heard a handful of different things from different people - including actual law firms (that I got in touch with through a previous employer), and results on Google have confused me further, so any kind of feedback is greatly appreciated. Please lmk if any significant information is missing to provide an answer!
TLDR: how does one go about getting added to the title of the house/mortgage that is currently in sole parents name, for a residence in South Florida?

Hopefully it's not too late into the game, but I got approved for their Visa Signature last week. It was a relatively quick and painless process from start to finish. I had no prior relationship with them and am outside their geographic region.
4/11 ~8am: Joined AUSA's Basic (free) and unlocked Chexsystems and Experian. Immediately signed up for a new savings account, uploaded required documents (license, utility bill, social card).
~10am: Received email request for a video call to verify documents (stating more verification was needed). Ended up being 15 minute call physically confirming documentation already uploaded earlier. Rep then states savings account was approved. Used their dedicated video chat app in the Play Store.
~1pm: Receive email that registration is complete, then activated login and signed in. I had the option of explicitly selecting the Visa Signature in the CC section of the homepage. The page said excellent approval odds, then asked about income, mortgage/rent payment, etc. Within 30 minutes, I receive an approval email with a $10k limit.
The card showed up in the main portal the next morning once it was all complete in their system. Also received an email saying it would be here in 7-14 days. Adding an AU required calling in for a DocuSign link, which you can do while the main card is in the process of being shipped.
$92k income, 835 FICO 8 (only pulled Experian), 31% DTI, current cards are Chase FF and C1 QS with ~$14k caps each. Chase FF was the only hard pull in the last 24mo.
The customer service interactions have been great so far. Based on what I've seen, $10k CL may be the ceiling, but not so sure.
Edit: A rep confirmed changing the due date is not possible with this card.

I recently moved from Mint to Monarch, but facing a bit of a dilemma of how best to set up my tracking. Previously, I had 2 Mint accounts w/separate logins - one for my personal expenses and another for my short-term rental business (for 1 property).
Now with MM, I'm thinking to use more features + further streamline my finances, but unsure of best approach.
Background: Before Mint closed, I had:

1. Personal Account: This purely tracked my personal expenses, which I exported to Excel for annual analysis and budgeting.
2. Business Account (for 1 property): Here, I tracked rental income (mostly just Airbnb/VRBO deposits) and business expenses - like mortgage payments, cleanings, repairs, etc., for my short term rental business. These I'd export each year, around tax season, to calc revenue, expenses by category, profit etc.

Current Situation:

• MM thinks I have only expenses (only personal accts hooked up now), no income, and net worth is inaccurate (since biz accounts aren't hooked up).
• I also have another property, split 50/50 w/a partner (he does the accounting for it), and I plan to get more properties - w/partner and/or alone.
• We take profits quarterly: every 3 months, I transfer all $$ over 10k into my Ally savings acct (same w/ shared prop. but half).

Dilemma:
1. On one hand, I'd like to have all my finances streamlined and tracking in one place to be able to manipulate and analyze etc. However:

• It seems like connecting biz to the same MM account would be a bit messy - mixing up all the transactions in one place
• Worry of overlapping categories issues
• With more properties it would get even busiemore confusing, easier to lose something or make a mistake.
• And I split the one prop. 50/50, so that would be missing anyway.

2. On the other hand, it seems cleanest when everything associated w/each property (and my personal) has its own tracking. But:

• Then I don't get the accurate reports, net worth etc. and see everything in one place
• I'll be paying $200+ ($100/account) just for tracking. It feels weird, tracking to be more financially responsible, and using Mint for free, then paying so much (I get this could just be viewed as small biz expenses in scheme of things, but wish there was some discount for multiple accts).

Thinking about this as I write, it seems more and more to make sense doing separate MM accnts.
Anyway, I'd greatly appreciate any insights, tips, or suggestions on how to get this done for best Quality of Life.
Edit: Since often brought up - I don't do invoicing, payroll etc. so even something simple as Mint was enough for biz tracking.

Hey guys, I hope this is OK. Just to preface, I have read many posts here and haven't gotten the exact answers I need. Likewise, I've talked with my bank (will explain below) but didn't get a lot of answers.
I woke up yesterday and checked my Santander bank account as I periodically do. I noticed that $2,000 had been transferred out of my bank account, in two separate transfers, both posted the day before.
I immediately called my bank and let them know I did not make these transfers. The transfers were listed as "Internet Transfer to Acct *xxx" and I obviously did not know the bank accounts the money was transferred to, nor did I ever make these transfers.
Bank representative on the phone put a freeze on my bank account, then transferred me to the Fraud department, where I had to repeat my entire story. They said they opened an investigation and rattled off a ton of different things, time periods, that were very vague and I didn't have time to write them all down. I asked if I would be refunded, because we have bills to pay. She wouldn't confirm or deny but said something about how it could take up to 90 days... I couldn't believe it. They also mentioned that the transfers were done through Online Banking, meaning they used my login information, and they claim they would have needed my cell phone or email to confirm the One Time Passcode. I have my email and phone, both secured, and nothing of the likes ever came through on my end. They were almost insinuating that I made the charges...
I never received an email outlining my claim. It was all over the phone, which I don't like. This was yesterday and still no credit back to my bank account. What bothered me more is how I was never alerted to the transfers in anyway.
I'm just a bit confused. I've called back and tried to get answers, but the representative would not transfer me to the Fraud department and just said it takes time and to check back.
I'm getting very nervous because I have bills coming due in 2 weeks, including a mortgage. I think we can scrape by. But what if they had transferred more money out? What if they had stole all of it? What is a person supposed to do for up to 90 days? Can I request my bank credit me now?
Any other advice here? I'm feeling lost and alone on this. I appreciate the help.

My ex husband is still using my email for everything still, his home utilities, his mortgage, Facebook, TikTok. Is there an easy way for me to remove his access to using my email for these things anymore?
(Also idk if I used the right tag sorry)
UPDATE: The amount of people acting rude is so uncalled for. The password to the email is changed it already was before I made this post. He can not log in to my email. MY ISSUE: he already uses my email for his logins for social media sites and utility bills. I want my email removed from his accounts.
It is ILLEGAL for me to hack his social media and change anything despite him using my email! I was just wondering if there was a way technologically that I could remove my email from his social media without illegally hacking his account since he has not fixed this issue in the MONTHS that I've asked him to.

- April 12, 2024
Good:

• Solid results and progress in improving financial performance.
• Growth in non-interest income across all business segments.
• Strong performance in investment banking and trading.
• Continued investment in talent and technology to strengthen corporate and investment banking.
• Strong capital position and commitment to returning excess capital to shareholders.

Bad:

• Decline in net interest income due to higher interest rates on funding costs and lower loan balances.
• Lower loan growth and decline in mortgage originations.
• Higher operating losses due to customer remediation accruals.
• Consumer net loan charge-offs increasing as expected.
• Limited loan demand in commercial real estate and cautious client behavior.

Ugly:

• Ongoing regulatory challenges and risk and control work.
• Reputational overhang from past sales practices misconduct.
• Uncertainty around the lifting of the asset cap.
• Potential impact of new issues and regulatory actions as heightened controls and oversight are implemented.
• Volatility in markets and rates.

Earnings Breakdown:
Financial Metrics:

• Net income for the first quarter was $4.6 billion or $1.20 per diluted common share.
• Net interest income declined $1.1 billion or 8% from a year ago.
• Average loans were down from both the fourth quarter and a year ago.
• Average deposits declined 1% from a year ago.
• Non-interest income was up 17% from a year ago.
• First quarter non-interest expense increased 5% from a year ago.
• Net loan charge-offs declined 3 basis points from the fourth quarter to 50 basis points of average loans.
• Allowance for credit losses was down modestly, driven by declines for commercial real estate and auto loans.
• CET-1 ratio remained strong at 11.2%.

Product Metrics:

• Retail mortgage originations declined 38% from a year ago.
• Auto revenue declined 23% from a year ago.
• Credit card revenue increased 6% from a year ago.
• Debit card spend increased 4% from a year ago.
• Investment banking revenue increased 5% from a year ago.
• Wealth and Investment Management revenue increased 2% compared to a year ago.
• Mobile logins surpassed 2 billion logins for the first time in the first quarter, up 18% from a year ago.

Source: Decode Investing AI Assistant

Sprive is an app that helps you to overpay your mortgage. This is done via two means, either automatic savings (which you can get a £5 referral bonus for if set up) or through getting cash back from buying gift cards.
How to get the £5 referral bonus: 1. Download the Sprive app https://sprive.com/ 2. Register and use the referral code: XUFQ1C72 3. Login to your account, link a bank account via TrueLayer and set up a direct debit for autosavings. 4. Receive a £5 bonus after your account is topped up.
Non-referral link: https://sprive.com £5 referral code: XUFQ1C72

have used Xero forever in NZ and Australia… but setup a new business in Canada recently.
Blows my mind that Xero doesn’t have a direct API with some of the major banks up there.
I bank with Scotia & the only way to have daily bank feed updates is by giving a third party my username and password so they can “scrape” my bank account.
Not only does it expose my business and personal account having a random third party know my login details it also means that third party has access to the daily data of ALL of my accounts, credit cards, investments, mortgage etc.
The solutions Xero told me were: • move to another bank who has API • manually upload csv each day yourself • give this third party the keys to your full banking information & expose yourself to any hacking that could come if that third party ran into issues.
Sucks to say we’ll have to use QB in Canada now… whereas all my other businesses run off Xero.

From our founder and CEO, u/mkleczynski
Digital security is about so much more than malware. That wasn’t always the case.
When I started Malwarebytes more than 16 years ago, malware was the primary security concern—the annoying pop-ups, the fast-spreading viruses, the catastrophic worms—and throughout our company’s history, Malwarebytes routinely excelled against this threat. We caught malware that other vendors missed, and we pioneered malware detection methods beyond the signature-based industry standard.
I’m proud of our success, but it wasn’t just our technology that got us here. It was our attitude.
At Malwarebytes, we believe that everyone has the right to a secure digital life, no matter their budget, which is why our malware removal tool was free when it launched and remains free today. Our ad blocking tool, Browser Guard is also available to all without a charge. This was very much not the norm in cybersecurity, but I believe it was—and will always be—the right thing to do.
Today, I am proud to add to our legacy of empowering individuals regardless of their wallet by releasing a new, free tool that better educates and prepares people for modern threats that abuse exposed data to target online identities. I’d like to welcome everyone to try our new Digital Footprint Portal.
See your exposed data in our new Digital Footprint Portal.
By simply entering an email address, anyone can discover what information of theirs is available on the dark web to hackers, cybercriminals, and scammers. From our safe portal, everyday people can view past password breaches, active social media profiles, potential leaks of government ID info, and more.
More than a decade ago, Malwarebytes revolutionized the antivirus industry by prioritizing the security of all individuals. Today, Malwarebytes is now also revolutionizing digital life protection by safeguarding the data that serves as the backbone of your identity, your privacy, your reputation, and your well-being online.
Why data matters
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read that “data is the new oil” without reading any explanations as to why people should care.
Here’s my attempt at clarifying the matter: Too much of our lives are put online without our control.
Creating a social media account requires handing over your full name and birthdate. Completing any online shopping order requires detailing your address and credit card number. Getting approved for a mortgage requires the exchange of several documents that reveal your salary and your employer. Buying a plane ticket could necessitate your passport info. Messaging your doctor could involve sending a few photos that you’d like to keep private.
As we know, a lot of this data is valuable to advertisers—this is what pundits focus on when they invoke the value of “oil” in discussing modern data collection—but this data is also valuable to an entirely separate group that has learned to abuse private information in novel and frightening ways: Cybercriminals.
Long ago, cybercriminals would steal your username and password by fooling you with an urgently worded phishing email. Today, while this tactic is still being used, there’s a much easier path to data theft. Cybercriminals can simply buy your information on the dark web.
That information can include credit card numbers—where the risk of financial fraud is obvious—and even more regulated forms of identity, like Social Security Numbers and passport info. Equipped with enough forms of “proof,” online thieves can fool a bank into routing your money elsewhere or trick a lender into opening a new line of credit in your name.
Where the risk truly lies, however, is in fraudulent account access.
If you’ve ever been involved in a company’s data breach (which is extremely likely), there’s a chance that the username and password that were associated with that data breach can be bought on the dark web for just pennies. Even though each data breach involves just one username and password for each account, cybercriminals know that many people frequently reuse passwords across multiple accounts. After illegally purchasing your login credentials that were exposed in one data breach, thieves will use those same credentials to try to log into more popular, sensitive online accounts, like your online banking, your email, and your social media.
If any of these attempts at digital safe-cracking works, the potential for harm is enormous.
With just your email login and password, cybercriminals can ransack photos that are stored in an associated cloud drive and use those for extortion. They can search for attachments that reveal credit card numbers, passport info, and ID cards and then use that information to fool a bank into letting them access your funds. They can pose as you in bogus emails and make fraudulent requests for money from your family and friends. They can even change your password and lock you out forever.
This is the future of personal cybercrime, and as a company committed to stopping cyberthreats everywhere, we understand that we have a role to play in protecting people.
We will always stop malware. We will always advise to create and use unique passwords and multifactor authentication. But today, we’re expanding our responsibility and helping you truly see the modern threats that could leverage your data.
With the Digital Footprint Portal, who you are online is finally visible to you—not just cybercriminals. Use it today to understand where your data has been leaked, what passwords have been exposed, and how you can protect yourself online.
Scan for free today.
Digitally safe
Malwarebytes and the cybersecurity industry at large could not have predicted today’s most pressing threats against online identities and reputations, but that doesn’t mean we get to ignore them. The truth is that Malwarebytes was founded with a belief broader than anti-malware protection. Malwarebytes was founded to keep people safe.
As cybercriminals change their tactics, as scammers needle their way onto online platforms, and as thieves steal and abuse the sensitive data that everyone places online, Malwarebytes will always stay one step ahead. The future isn’t about worms, viruses, Trojans, scams, pig butchering, or any other single scam. It’s about holistic digital life protection. We’re excited to help you get there.

Hello - in advance, I am aware to keep things separate and am on a trajectory to do so.
Background: 50 yo, in 2023 bought a house and my husband and I each started a business ( each have LLC w.EINs). My business isn’t “engaged” so only startup costs so far (website, legal stuff)…his has operating costs, expenses & some other things real estate related. Personally, we have loans, mortgage, regular credit cards.
I subscribed to QB and have an appointment w.a CPA/bookeeper next month to square up our books & practices so 2024 can be proper reconciled.
Ahead of our meeting I am learning about QB and am confused about our personal banking, loans & credit. I’ve looked around here in the reddit and see other have some questions about managing multiple businesses and personal all in one place. I don’t nt want to have to import and export things to different logins when it’s only for us knowing we are separate entities ( 2-3 businesses and our personal books).
I can’t be the only one. Is there some solution?
Thanks in advance! (Again, business and personal is separate ….eventually…we’re just new at it in 2023)

2 days of gameplay is all I got(if I disregard that my first login was about 20 minutes before reset), 2 I've done mostly nothing besides finding remaining notes that apparently don't spawn until you leave...
For all the advertising and hyping it's no different from a typical asian c̶a̶s̶i̶n̶o̶ game, have bad luck and not willing to put a mortgage into "game" ? Get bent.
Feel free to tell me all about skill issue and getting gud.

I’m a year out of my apprenticeship and work sends me out to jobs on my own and I don’t have access to all the standards besides AS3000, and need ones such as 3017 and 3012 (I work in temporary construction sites sometimes and submit test sheets with ccew’s all the time, so I want to be doing the right thing). I know people are going to say just pay for it yourself but money isn’t the best at the moment with the mortgage. I tried to login to tafe and get it there but they’ve revoked my access, and my own work won’t even give it to me.
I’ve only just got my licence and I’m not trying to lose it. I’m just trying to do the right thing at work and keep people safe so I’d appreciate it if anyone had some links or Dropbox I could use. Thanks