Bmw ediabas 6 torrent

Finally bought my dream bike (bmw 1976 R75/6) and have been enjoying it for the last year but it’s some for a serious tune up.
Does anyonee have recommendations for a mechanic that works on airheads?

https://preview.redd.it/1yzkrzor5t0d1.png?width=2340&format=png&auto=webp&s=f1cf6b8616c8a1100798203dc8c79f2dbefd7916
So yeah, as the title says, I bought my E92 330i (09/2009) a year ago and I want to reflect on my year of ownership. I want to share all the maintenance that was done, my driving experience, and observations.
From the start, I knew that it wouldn’t be easy to maintain the car. It's powered by the N53B30 (200 kW) engine, which many people are not fond of. My ideal pick would be the N52B30 200 kW variant, but sadly, that was not widely available in Europe for the E92 model.
General observation
Let’s get to the point. If you are considering buying this car, make sure it has undergone proper maintenance first. Don’t gamble with models that have a shady maintenance history. If you are living in Europe, especially in the former "Ost blok," don’t buy this car in your country unless you have 100% service documentation from the previous owner. Back in the day, for the price of this car, you could buy one or two nice apartments in the capital (Bratislava). There simply weren’t enough people buying these cars in this part of Europe who could afford them. Nowadays, most of the E9x models are imported from Western Europe. Although the prices of the cars have significantly dropped, the cost of maintenance remains the same. Even with today’s salaries in this part of Europe, people can’t afford to maintain these vehicles properly. This leads to neglecting service intervals, using cheap aftermarket parts instead of OE/OEM ones, and not using the correct fuel, etc. Buying this kind of vehicle from, let’s say, Germany isn’t always the ideal solution, but at least people have higher purchasing power and can spend more on properly maintaining the car.
My experience
I bought my E92 with 218,000 km (~135,769.606 miles) in April 2023. I immediately fell in love with the car; despite the electric steering, the vehicle felt great. The acceleration, thanks to the last naturally aspirated N53 engine, felt powerful, linear, and willing to chase the red line every time I stepped on the gas. Thanks to direct injection, the fuel consumption was also solid. Driving according to the speed limit could get me way below 8.5l/100 km (27.67 mpg), usually between 7.5 - 8.3l/100km (31.69 - 28.33 mpg), which is an amazing value for a 3L 200 kW engine. The shape of the chassis is timeless, adorned by beautiful angel eyes and a long bonnet. The full leather interior with memory sport seats looks and feels brand new. The manual 6-speed transmission with a classical analog speedometer with an orange backlight is a work of art. Despite being a coupe, the car provides two fully functional back seats with enough legroom for even a 1.9-meter-tall person. Individual anthracite upholstery with beautiful black velour floor mats is just a nice bonus on top of this.
The fuel system and the engine
The biggest downside of this car is definitely the expensive high-pressure fuel system: pricey index 12 fuel injectors with NOx sensors and catalytic converters. Although direct injection enables you to drive very economically, it can cause problems. The engine can run in three different modes (stratified charge, homogeneous lean charge, and homogeneous charge mode). This can be discussed on many pages, but the long story short is: if you have any issue with the combustion system, ranging from spark plugs, coils, injectors, NOx sensor, or catalytic converters, you will lose the benefit of fuel consumption and run a very lean mixture, having the consumption of an N52. People (mainly from the US) complain about the high-pressure fuel pump, which can give up and destroy your €2500 injectors and fuel lines. You can more or less avoid this by using premium fuels (98/100 octane and higher) with cleaning additives (this will also help by removing carbon buildup). You should also expect to change your oil every 8000 - 10,000 km and no more. The N53 runs very hot; it is not uncommon for the oil temperature in the engine to reach 120°C when driving dynamically. You don’t want any burned oil slugs in the gasket, which can damage the timing chain and VANOS units. Also, the engine, thanks to the direct injection system, is quite noisy at idle (similar to diesel) and isn’t as silky smooth as the N52 or the M54 engines. Another topic is the water pump, which according to many, tends to fail. I had mine preventively replaced at 238,026 km. I didn’t notice any issues with it or the HPFP. Also, don’t forget to inspect/replace the DISA flaps; those can cause catastrophic engine damage if they are sucked into the cylinders.
Conclusion
Despite the mentioned issues, the engine can be very reliable and giving. My one year of maintenance was quite pricey. This could have been avoided if the previous owner had done some preventative maintenance. Sadly, he only replaced the clutch and spark plugs. However, one thing BMW really nailed with this engine was the timing chain. I still run on the original one (no knocking or loose chain whatsoever), and I’m planning to replace it before reaching the 300k km mark. If you have any remarks, feel free to ask. I’m also posting the maintenance that was done during my ownership. The prices include tax and labor. I serviced the car only with original parts at an authorized dealership.
Maintenance
May 2023 - 220 577 km - €322.90

• Brake fluid
• Door insulation

June 2023 - 222 318 km - €1,090.69

• Air Filter
• Oil change
• Cabin filter
• Spark plugs
• Manual transmission oil
• Differential oil
• Auto battery

August 2023 - 226 084 km - €1,886.79

• NOx sensor change
• Valve cover gasket replacement

September 2023 - 227 365 km - €1,081.18

• DISA flaps
• Serpentine belt + pulleys

October 2023 - 228 649 km - €2,885.71

• Fuel injectors
• Oil change

March 2024 - 234 277 km - €1,247.60

• High pressure fuel pump
• Coolant replacement

April 2025 - 238 026 km - €1,299.42

• Water pump
• Oil change

Total cost €9,808.23

Hello . We have bmw n47 2003 . showing 4B90 fault . Rail - pressure monitoring on engine start . we changed (swapped) relays . changed fuel filter and pump underneath driver side . changed common rail sensors and also full common rail pipe with no luck . still same fault . was deleting it with delphi and think diag2 . (im electrician but i do mechanic sometimes so im not that into pressures etc) i have 2 pressures Actual rail pressure : 6 / 35 bar while cranking .. and specified rail pressure : 300 (ignition off) / 500-550 bar while cranking . Car dont want to start . tried fuel bleeding .. No way to start . Only with start spray it starts and runs perfect . can drive can go max rpm no problems can work for hours likw that no stall no nothing . but car wont start. also fuel pump works good on ignition on please help what to check further?
also with other common rail . my both pressures stay together . 300bar off . 500 bar cranking . but both pressures in that rail are same . but for this one its totally different??

I have wanted a M since I was 16 but did not get one until I was 37 due to financial priorities and limitations. I finally pulled the trigger in September 2021 when I felt ready for the responsibility. It is a 2015 and bought it with 49k miles.
There are varying opinions on BMWs. One extreme thinks they are money pits that should be avoided at all costs etc
The other extreme thinks you shouldn’t own one unless you pay for it in cash and have the dealership fix everything and not question it.
I’m somewhat in the middle. My feeling is do the maintenance but if you can watch a YouTube video and read forum posts, learn to do it yourself.
Below is a list of maintenance items I’ve done and repairs I’ve made. Also should be noted I have Bootmod tune but I usually run with a stage 0 tune like the Comp or GTS. Just peace of mind for myself that I feel will make car last a little longer than stage 1 tune.
Standard maintenance(Oil changes, fluid changes, brakes, tires)
Tires - Michelin pilot sport AS4 - 1300 all in including warranty from discount tire. It is what it is.
For oil change I got a special from dealership. $185 for lifetime oil changes. Only caveat is they will not change it until the 10,000 mile service interval. That is unacceptable in my opinion so I change it myself at 5000 miles. Liqui moly 0w40 kit from FCP Euro costs me around $75. But the dealership special has already paid for itself with two oil changes.
Brakes They are little more than average car. I did them myself for 130 for the back and $160 for the front. Went with Akibono(sp) because of less brake dust. Dealership would have charged $1550 for front brakes and rotors. That’s including parts and labor. The rotors are pretty expensive compared to the average car. They are a little over $300 for each rotor. These items can easily be changed by yourself after watching a YouTube video. I plan on doing the rotors in the next month or so.
Spark Plugs(OE BOSCH. $8 each. SAME AS OEM without M logo) There are varying reports on cost for the dealership to do this. My local dealership quoted me $550 which I was honestly surprised about because that’s not that bad of a deal. There is so much stuff you have to take off that it is around a 4 to 5 hour job taking your time. Spark plugs usually last around 25 to 30,000 miles.
Ignition Coils($22 each for OE. OEM was $60 a piece) - I did these myself on my second spark plug change. Very easy to do.
The only other fluid I’m aware of is the differential fluid. Haven’t done DCT transmission fluid change. It’s not even offered by the dealership because it’s supposed to be lifetime fluid. I will tackle myself in the future and the kit is around $300-$400.
Wear and Tear Fixes(items known to go out on most F82’s due to design)
Valve cover($650 for part) This is a big ticket item that seems to fail in that 80-100k range. I could see some people neglecting because of the cost. Yes you can replace just the gasket for $70 but the actual covers tend to crack so if you’re going to do all that work, might as well do it right. Dealership quoted me $3200 for everything. There is a lot of time involved removing everything just to get to the valve cover so that’s where the cost comes from. I did it myself. I’m not the most mechanically inclined so I was extra careful and watched a ton of YouTube videos. But there were several moments during this repair where things could’ve easily gone south and I would’ve been screwed. I can see why the dealership charges this but I couldn’t justify it.
Rear Differential Bushing($1600 from Indy shop) This was something I did not feel comfortable doing myself because you have to lower the subframe disconnect the driveshaft. Earlier models have this inferior single bushing that is rubber with a metal sleeve, and they will crack. Was the car still drivable? Yes but.but clunk was annoying and could cause damage to the differential if not addressed
Unexpected Repairs
Coolant expansion tank. $120 for part. Fixed myself in 1hr. BMW wanted $700.
Lower dirt shield underpinning. $30 for the part and replaced myself within 30 minutes BMW wanted to $315.
CONCLUSION Is the car expensive to maintain? Yes it’s higher than your average vehicle but don’t buy into the fear from people that have had a bad experience with another BMW. Also don’t buy into the fear that they are impossible to work on or you need highly specialized tools. I don’t think I’ve ran into an issue where I had to buy a $200 tool to finish a job. Maybe a $20 spark plug socket or something minor. Plus it’s an inline 6 so it’s straightforward. Only frustrating thing I’ve ran into is the amount of stuff you have to take off to get to parts of the engine. But it’s just bolts and you can figure it out.
It also depends on if you feel comfortable doing maintenance yourself. You can save yourself a lot of money if done right. Just have an honest conversation with yourself if you can afford doing the maintenance when it needs it. Overall, I really enjoy the car and it has been reliable in my opinion. The maintenance cost would have been a nightmare and compounded into bigger problems if I was not prepared to shell out $$.
Hopefully this post helps someone out that’s thinking of getting one.
Ps I’ve attached estimates from dealership and also some other random pics.

Geico originally estimated the fix to cost 1300 total (I have a 1000 deductible, so 300 Out of pocket for Geico).
I left my car at the bmw shop and after asking for a supplemental and the Geico representative seeing the car at the shop they said the damage was actually going to cost 7,100 dollars.
I asked for an itemized estimate and the guy just told me that they had to order a new headlight bc the connector in the back, that holds the front bumper, is broken so they had to order a new one. That plus getting a totally new rim since this one got scratched a lot.
Do those numbers add up? The guy initially told me the headlight costs 3,000 and the rim 800-1,200 dollars.
If it that ends up being the real cost of the damage then Geico is gonna end up paying like 6.1k dollars. How much is that going to increase my insurance ? I used to pay 1.6k dollars for 6 months. My first 6 months end in August.