Anker test
Anker Innovations
2014.07.02 03:37 zmasta94 Anker Innovations
Empowering Smarter Lives
2022.04.05 14:24 Hefty_Secretary8504 A place to discuss the new Anker 3D Printer
A place to discuss the new Anker 3D Printer
2024.05.18 09:33 PersonalEngineer5124 Bass guitar mobile rig
Hi,
I recentliy decided to built a mobile "rig" for bass practice. The Pre amp should bring a compressor and should be very small. The "Amp and Cabinet" should be powerfull enough to practise outside AND have low latency. Since I commonly play quite technical stuff on Bass, low latency is a key feature in the whole Setup for me
Boss Katana - for the Preamp Part of it, which is very useable for that.
- It sounds decent and also brings some nice practical features like superimposing any media from your connected device into the output as well.
- This means you can run spotify, Ultimate Guitar, any drum machine AND the Pre amp into headphones OR you BT Speaker.
Speaking of the later, I tested a bunch of different "callibers" and evolution cycles of ANKER Speakers. Long story short, here are the aux-chain-latency (with Boss Katana in chain!) and PoweVolume results:
- Soundcore mini
- Latency ~100ms NOK
- Power: OK for practising at home
- SoundCore 2
- Latency: ~1000ms NOK absouletly Awful,
- Anker support did not come with any idea how to fix this, even asked for specific firmware, but got chat GPT like response on my questions
- Power: OK for practising at home or quiet backyard, maybe i would have sticked to it when latency would have been OK
- Soundcore Motion Plus
- Lantency <10ms OK, I cant notice any latency!
- I try to have sub 10ms latency in my DAW ASIO Settings and I cant really notice any latency then, so I put sub 10ms here for the soundcore Motion Plus
- Power: is rated as 30W and is just where I want the rig to be overall volume wise, so lets say OK
- But i need to krank up all volume on the Motion+. This brings the tweeters in the speaker do amplify white noise.
- Also at full volume you get compression through saturation in the bass and low mids
- Here i wish for more headroom
- Soundcore Motion Boom Plus
- I will try this one out becouse of
- Low latency reported in different Reviews
- 80W Power for more headroom
- A handle which I think will be very useful
I will report once I have tested the Boom Plus
submitted by
PersonalEngineer5124 to
Bluetooth_Speakers [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 16:51 lbabinz [Best Buy] Weekly Deals Sale at Best Buy: May 17 - 23 (SEGA, 1st Party Switch Games, Ubisoft, EA, 2K, Minecraft, Early Summer Sale, more)
submitted by
lbabinz to
VideoGameDealsCanada [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 16:18 LegacyLibra20 T470s HDMI/Thunderbolt port not displaying external monitor
This is slightly embarrassing to ask as I work in technology helpdesk but I'm running out of ideas at this point.
I noticed this issue with my T470s where it's not displaying on a secondary monitor. I've tested with a Dell docking station, Anker 6-in-1 dongle and recently a Belkin adapter (USB-C/HDMI charging compatible dongle). Even the intergrated HDMI port isn't displaying. It's unknown if it worked before as I only recently starting attempting to use an external screen with this laptop. Type-C port is able to charge the device, read external storage, and peripherals.
Note this is a refurbished T470s I bought last summer.
I've done the following:
- Downloaded Lenovo System Update
- Manually installed Generic DisplayLink Driver
- Ran Windows update
- Uninstalled the display driver
- Installed TB Software setup and TB firmware update
- Made sure Thunderbolt 3 was enabled in BIOS.
submitted by
LegacyLibra20 to
thinkpad [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 01:48 POSElD0N Oslo Sleepbuds vs Anker A20s
I have finally had both of these to test on alternate nights, and would like to share a little experience comparison. Apologies on misspelling Ozlos, autocorrect keeps changing it.
PACKAGING:
Ozlo- Packaged like an apple product, a lot of effort was taken here. Maybe a bit wasteful on resources but for a premium pricetag I guess It’s appreciated.
Anker- Packaged well, Everything secured and very minimal resources used.
Score- Ozlo
DESIGN/QUALITY:
Ozlo- Out of the box, the case feels hefty, nice quality rubber grip to keep it from sliding and remain stationary on my nightstand. Opening the case has a smooth glide and nice presentation. The case is a bit large but these are meant for sleep, not carrying daily so For purpose reasons it’s acceptable. One flaw, my first night I placed the buds back in the case and went to put them in the following night to find the right bud at 0%. I had to nudge it a hair to get it to lock into the connectors and start charging in the case. I’m guessing the magnet wasn’t strong enough to really pull them onto the charging contacts, and now I have to be precise when returning them to the case. The silicone on the Sleepbuds is very soft and pliable. First attempt at wearing wasn’t comfortable, but I have small ears and went straight to size 0 tips, with a 100% improvement. There’s still a specific amount of pressure laying on side of my head where these become noticeable and also my jaw seems to impede on the earpiece blocking sound at some angles. I’m a stomach/side sleeper. Easy fix, I create a small crater in my pillows (down feathers) where my ear is and problem solved. Comfort score for regular wearing is 10/10, side sleeping 8/10 (still best in market to everything I have tried)
A20- This is where the price difference becomes apparent. The case is smaller, and feels of a much cheaper and thinner plastic. Better portability size and rounded to make taking in and out of pocket better than the Ozlos. Super light weight overall. Greeted by the indicator lights on the outside of the case, so I can see status without needing to open. Taking them out of the case the silicone feels more like rubber, and notable size difference. The device itself has a “hollow” feel to it unlike the Ozlos. The ozlos seem like the voids inside the buds are filled in and insulated, where the a20s seem hollow and don’t insulate sound while touching them (bad for when a blanket or pillow slides and touches it while sleeping). I was greeted with automatic Rain noise the second I put them in my ears, I do like the ear detection and the tap features where I can pause/play, adjust volume, skip, etc by double or triple tapping the earbud. Useful feature absolutely, but i’m guessing adding that tech is the reason behind the girth of the buds themselves, in which case i’d rather go without. In the ear they are very light but don’t quite fit the shape of my ear, they almost resemble the fit of the first generation airpods. comfort normal wear is 8/10, side sleeping 4/10 very distracting bulge and pressure at a specific point despite changing tip sizes. The extra girth to add some features is not welcome for a device meant for sleeping, at least for side sleepers like myself.
Score- Ozlos
FEATURES:
Ozlos- without just listing off the manual what these can do, I can only review the available features, and will only share “after the recent update.” After the update the connection is seamless, but I still feel as though the earbuds might be on even while in the case, and would like an update where the buds and the case disconnect from my phone and turn off when the case is closed with the buds inside. I still find myself putting my buds in the case, closing it, and attempting to listen to music in the other room and finding my iphone is still playing through the buds… The app is intuitive but buggy, nothing a software update can’t fix as long as the hardware is capable enough. I would like an option to just pick up the buds, put them in my ear and it start playing automatically, even though I don’t use the native sounds. Honestly the features that haven’t released yet I can probably live without, but for the price of the sleepbuds I expect everything under the kitchen sink.
A20s- These don’t have nearly the features of the Ozlos, but for less than half the price I don’t expect them to. Plane and simple controls, adjustable tapping settings, and automatic sound playing when placed in the ears is welcome.
Considering I was a kickstarter for both of these, at time of release the A20s feel less buggy and more ready for release than the Ozlos, despite the significant quality of feel of the Ozlos.
Score- A20s
SOUND QUALITY:
Ozlos- Terrific sound for such a small device. I wasn’t impressed by the native sounds, they seem very 2 dimensional, however this lower quality sound is also easier for the device to stream and use less battery so it is expected. I use Odysound for my sleep/focus sounds (Pink noise, Florida Thunderstorm, and indoor seaside) and if anyone hasn’t used this app, you’ll likely be amazed to the dolby atmos sounds and these sounds having depth is greatly emphasized by good sound quality of the Ozlos. Still has a surround sound feel and impressive bass with my thunderstorm. I’m very impressed by the sound quality as long as my jaw and side sleeping doesn’t impede on the sound.
A20s- Initially the built in sounds seem a touch higher fidelity and depth than the Ozlos, but by fractions. The audio quality is both good and bad. the depth is there but lacking due to the hollow device and poor noise insulation. But, this also adds to the effect of the bass which has more rumble to it due to that, it makes heavier low frequency sounds resonate better. overall quality feel like that of stock headphones that come with a phone when you buy it, good enough but nothing to talk about.
SCORE- Ozlos
BATTERY LIFE:
Ozlos- keeping this short, I keep the case plugged in at all times since it stays on my nightstand or the side table of the hotels I stay at, so I won’t vouch for case battery life, but the earbuds have lasted me a 7 hour sleep with 80% volume streaming either pink noise or thunderstorms from odysound, and I put them away with 15% battery remaining, so easily 8hours and that’s all I need. I don’t use phone free mode as I prefer my premium sounds, and I don’t use an alarm or a timer to turn sounds off in the app (I use the built in 8hr timer in odysound). So battery’s been all I need it to be. I tried them on a 3 hour flight but much prefer my airpods with ANR.
A20s, i’m guessing they have a larger battery because a 7 hour night playing pink noise 80% volume had me putting them away with 24% remaining. But I don’t need that 24%, I need smaller earbuds to be more comfortable for my 7-8 hours of sleep.
Score- Even
PRICE:
Ozlos- I was hesitant to send a chunk of change this size for a startup device, but I was kind of expecting Bose quality, and feel like I got it. Overall I’d say these are overpriced, considering they are nearing the price of my airpod pros, but designated only for sleep/rest. Otherwise they just don’t compare with value and should be closer to $150. They seem premium, but they’re not $200 sleepbuds.
A20s- I got these for $90 kickstarter, and can say they belong right at that price, not a dollar more. They’re cheaper feeling and less refined all around, but they do their job and are more in line with their pricetag.
Score- A20s
Overall, both these devices do as they advertise (except unreleased features of the ozlos) and are useable for sleep. The biggest difference is for sidesleepers which is where the Ozlos are the best in the business. If you sleep facing up, the ankers are a better bang for your buck. Since I live in hotels as much as my own home i’ll keep the ozlos for myself and give the ankers to my wife, she is satisfied with them. But overall the Ozlos are superior in every way.
submitted by
POSElD0N to
Ozlo [link] [comments]
2024.05.16 00:20 smileyke USB-C battery (if you are lucky enough to have a bag with the battery slot.
| I got a new iPhone with USB-C and wanted a way to carry just one cord for travel, so I spent a few weeks designing and testing some Adapters that allow two different options for USB-C batteries to fit the Away Luggage. Adapters for a Nitecore 10,000mAh, or an Anker 5,000mAh with wireless charging with a spot for an Apple AirTag so if you have to check the bag you can track it. Both batteries pop out easily and keep the adapter in the bag. (Unless you want to swap it out, then it comes out easily) Let me know what you think! https://awaybatteryreplace.etsy.com submitted by smileyke to awayluggage [link] [comments] |
2024.05.15 04:42 gigamike Wow, This Company Is Shady
I bought an EB3A for a friend who is going on a road trip and needs portable power for her CPAP. The unit arrived, looked great and had 68% charge. I did some tests with some electical diagnostic tools and let it charge my new MacBook Pro which was fine and took it down to around 40%. I came back about four hours later and it was dead. It wouldn't charge via AC nor solar panel. I called Bluetti customer service and was told they would contact me in 2-4 weeks and "whatever you do sir, please do not discuss or return the unit to Amazon." Lol, WUT? I should have bought an Anker which I just did.
submitted by
gigamike to
bluetti [link] [comments]
2024.05.13 21:19 patmuk Probably best Power Bank: INIU B63 (25Ah 65W)
A popular question is: Which is the best power bank? Inspired by multiple other posts in this subreddit, I found a YouTube, who does very scientific tests. Initially summarized for myself, I want to share his findings.
First of, there is a question I could not find the answer to - and this is the reason for "potentially best". If anybody happens to know (not guess), please state it here!
Update: It looks like my assumption was wrong: A power Bank specified for 20V 5A will convert to 20V 3.25A (needed by the Ally), and draw this (20*3.25 = 65W) from the batteries. In more detail, the efficiency of the IC converting to the needed output, determines how much Wh are consumed.
So, my recommendations are:
- 1st place:
- The Anker A1340 prime has an efficiency of 93% (best among all), it delivers 92.5 Wh
- 2nd
- The INIU B63 (25 Ah, 65W) has an efficiency of 88%, it delivers 82.7 Wh (so at 65W the Ally could be on full power for more than 1h)
- Smaller than 1st place: 129*73*34mm, 475g but 12% less battery life
I don't recommend: The INIU B64 (27 Ah) was not tested by that guy yet ... but I assume that it has a similar efficiency to the B63. That would be (88%) so it would deliver 88 Wh. => compared to the INIU B63, being 4 cm longer and a bit heavier, for only 6% longer run time, seems like not worth it.
Here is my old text, with more details:
The power draw of the ally is (I assume) at 30W 20V and 3.25A. This is what the power brick delivers. However, most power banks supply an output of: 5V 3A / 9V 3A / 12V 1.5A / 15V 3A / 20V 5A / 28V 5A (Anker a1340 in this example). While the device asks for the V and takes only the A it needs, I assume that the power bank still provides the specified V and A, meaning: Even though 20V and 3.25 A are taken by the Ally, 20V 5A are drawn from the power bank. 5 A are converted to 3.25 A, 1.75A is wasted. Again, not sure here - this is the base of my argument following! Thus, in 1h 100 Wh are depleted, not 65 Wh. Having a 27.000 mAh battery, with 20V 5A, it would be empty in 5.4h at 5A and not 8.3h (with 3.25A). So, a 25,000 mAh power bank with 20V 3.25A would actually hold longer. These are theoretical calculations, the Ally is not going to run for 5+h! more like 2h. Here is the calculation: 27 Ah power bank, outputting 20V with 5A: 20 V * 5 A = 100 W, 27 Ah * 20 V / 100 W = 5.4h 25 Ah power bank, outputting 20V with 3.25A: 20V & 3.25A = 65W, 25 Ah * 20V / 65W = 7.69h
Among the recommended power banks, the INIU B63 (25,000 mAh 65W) seems the best fit:
- it delivers 20V at 3.25A, so no power is wasted
- it is Airplane accepted (though not for Air Asia, who set the limit at 20 Ah)
- it delivers 65W output from 100% battery to 0%
- it has pass-through charging (though the others have that as well)
- temperature stays low (we don't want to heat up the Ally): charging 29-31 degrees, discharging 25-32 degrees (https://youtu.be/rQ5Fnenxy1g?si=SipN4426EyfFdzMV&t=365)
- it has good dimensions: 129*73*34mm 475g (the INIU B64 with 27 Ah is 4 cm longer!) It is quite efficient (though the Anker A1340 is more efficient): ( Input Energy for full charge: 102.6Wh Output full discharge: 82.7 Wh at 65W (81.4 Wh at 25W) (because of staying cool!) Efficiency of discharge: 88% Efficiency from power plug to delivered energy: 79.3%
What is wrong with the others? The others I am mentioning here all have 20V 5A output - and, if I am not wrong, even though the Ally draws only 3.25A, 5A are spend on the power bank.
In some aspects the following power banks might be better, but here are the additional killer arguments: UGreen 145W 25 Ah:
Aber A1340 prime (27650 mAh): - shuts off completely at 35%
https://youtu.be/WFkNCLrx96U?si=EGIqITDu76wxlWfi&t=427 ! Continues when cool again - but I would not like to interrupt my game. (Though maybe the ally battery can bridge the time?)
Anker 737
- did not look much into it ... because 20V 5A. Besides this both Ankers are actually very good!
Shargeek Strom 2
ZMI (Xiaomi) N. 20 QB86b (25 Ah) (
https://youtu.be/55ce84SE150?si=WbjyfMepqxU2IYSP&t=527)
INIU B64 (27 Ah)
I have to admit that I did not yet bought any power bank yet. And I think that all perform fine, the mentioned drawbacks are just minor annoyances in practice. However, please let me know if my base assumption is correct!
submitted by
patmuk to
ROGAlly [link] [comments]
2024.05.13 20:03 Voidfaller Question about panels going to solix C1000
Hi all, I recently got an ANKER solix C1000 during the big 40% off sale. I combed over specifications for solar input (600 watts max) and want to ensure what’s happening is intended.
The Solix C1000 states,
“Solar Panel Input 11-32V-10A; 32V-60V=12.5A (600W Max)”
I have two Sun power SPR-E20-327-COM panels which are rated: 327W 54.7 vmp 5.98 imp ——
In order to test how fast and how much it can handle I setup the panels in two connections and found the following:
If the 2 panels are connected in a series, the c1000 does nothing and does not recognize any solar input period.
If the 2 panels are connected in parallel, the c1000 sees on average 180-320 watts incoming.
In no case did the panels ever produce above 320-326 watts even tho they were in parallel,
Also, in a series method, the ANKER c1000 didn’t respond, at all, as though nothing was connected… is this correct?
(To further test each individual panel, I did connect each one singularly to the c1000, and it read about 150 watts)
Is it not able to handle the 327 watts from two when formed into a series? I do realize it’s a nick over the watt rating, 327 X 2 = 654, vs the max watts being 600, but I figured it would reduce the input to an amount it could handle and then charge from there safely. Instead it just didn’t pull a single watt when the two were connected in series…
Thanks for any advice or tips in advanced!
submitted by
Voidfaller to
SolarDIY [link] [comments]
2024.05.13 05:57 Voidfaller Solix C1000 question using 2x 327 watt panels
Hi all, I recently got an ANKER solix C1000 during the big 40% off sale. I combed over specifications for solar input (600 watts max) and want to ensure what’s happening is intended.
To Solix C1000 states,
“Solar Panel Input 11-32V-10A; 32V-60V=12.5A (600W Max)”
I have two Sun power SPR-E20-327-COM panels which are rated: 327W 54.7 vmp 5.98 imp ——
In order to test how fast and how much it can handle I setup the panels in two connections and found the following:
If the 2 panels are connected in a series, the c1000 does nothing and does not recognize any solar input period.
If the 2 panels are connected in parallel, the c1000 sees on average 180-320 watts incoming.
In no case did the panels ever produce above 320-326 watts even tho they were in parallel,
Also, in a series method, the ANKER c1000 didn’t respond, at all, as though nothing was connected… is this correct?
(To further test each individual panel, I did connect each one singularly to the c1000, and it read about 150 watts)
Is it not able to handle the 327 watts from two when formed into a series? I do realize it’s a nick over the watt rating, 327 X 2 = 654, vs the max watts being 600, but I figured it would reduce the input to an amount it could handle and then charge from there safely. Instead it just didn’t pull a single watt when the two were connected in series…
Thanks for any advice or tips in advanced!
submitted by
Voidfaller to
anker [link] [comments]
2024.05.12 23:09 1WangedAngel [WTS/WTT] SiS - post office run price drops— Nintendo 3DS, Sony Pulse 3D PS5 Headset, Beats Solo2 Wired, Amazon Echo (Alexa) 2nd gen
Timestamp:
https://imgur.com/a/ibfSw47 Pics:
https://imgur.com/a/CpbZI42 PayPal f&f only, pricing is shipped CONUS unless the cheapest option on pirate ship is over $10 (in which case I reserve the right to hit you up for the diff or refund your money), I recently spent $19 shipping a $30 box of goods across the country to somewhere out in the sticks and won’t be doing that again lmao. Doing a post office run in the next couple days, Wednesday at the latest
Nintendo New 3ds XL - comes with case, stylus, and the below games: Fire Emblem Echoes Fire Emblem Fates: Birthright Fire Emblem Fates: Conquest Super Mario 3D Land (only this one has a case) New Super Mario Bros 2
Very light usage and no functional issues—love the idea of it and the 3D looks way better than I expected it to but my hands are just too big to play it comfortably for more than an hour. TV/SV:
$180 170
Sony Pulse 3D wireless headset for PS5 (with usb dongle): Works great and in very good condition, consolidated to something that also works with Xbox and don’t need my place to be full of gaming headsets if a lady hypothetically come over. Yes there’s visibly two bigass consoles. Shut up. TV:
$65 $60, SV:
$55 $50
Beats Solo 2 wired: Ear cups recently replaced (glued—the adhesive on the replacements was shit) and the right size adjustment ratchet is a little loose (it holds under normal wear but is noticeably looser than the left one). Aftermarket cable. Sound is great! TV -
$50$45, SV -
$40 $35?
Amazon Echo (Alexa) 2nd gen: Nice smart speaker, got tinfoil hatty and decided I didn’t want a listening device in my living room like my phone wasn’t already beaming me advertisements for shit I’d only silently thought of. Great condition, minimal use, works perfect as of when I unplugged it and threw it in a drawer. Tested it boots etc when I wiped it just now. TV:
$50$45, SV:
$40$35?
NIKE SFB special field boots gen 2, black, size 11.5 Men’s. Wore to the range a couple times, got a little muddy but minimal wear. They just don’t fit my feet well but I have weird feet. Not promising they’ll arrive pristine but will clean more of the mud off them I was just rushing to get this posted before it’s too late for anyone to see it. TV:
$75$70, SV:
$65$60
Sabrent laptop docking station, 1 hdmi, 1 dvi. Solid, just upgraded cuz I needed 2 hdmis. TV:
$40$35, SV:$30
Anker wireless charging pad 7.5: nothing fancy but it’s fine and cheap. $5 if purchased with something else, $10 if alone
Looking to trade fotowards any of the following:
Icarus B-Ace pads for xmacro, aluminum base pads for 21rd p320 mags, +capacity baseplates for xmacro/p320/p07, competition belt mag pouches, offset AR buis, Primary Arms 3x LER magnifier with flip-down mount, ambi safety switch for AR, helikon-Tex modular med kit pouch (pref adaptive green), maybe an M-LOK Bipod, Magpul MS4 sling, AR QD endplate, Cajun Gunworks stuff for p-07, tlr-7a or tlr-7 sub
Open to other p320/xmacro/p07 stuff, show me what you got
Also have gun stuff leftovers including p365xl mags at the link here—if you combine something from each thread I’ll knock off 5 bucks for shipping
https://www.reddit.com/GunAccessoriesForSale/s/ks8RsnhmtB submitted by
1WangedAngel to
GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]
2024.05.12 11:44 falschgold Replacement/Upgrade for Pixel Buds that don't have step noises?
In general I like my Pixel Buds very much but their bluetooth performance is and always has been sub par. Walking in the city below or above a big electric field (tram, powerline) disrupts the audio stream if you have your phone in your trousers pockets more often than not. When you put it into your shirt pockets it's better but not always practical, so it's a range thing. I thought all the time my ancient Pixel 4a is the culprit but having switched to an iphone 15 didn't change this, so, the Pixel Buds need to go :(
I now tried the SONY Sony WF-C700N, good reviews, sound is ok, but the step noises are unbearable (and not one review I read mentioned this, do these testers sit in their chairs for testing?!). I know this is mostly because of the ANC which I don't really need, so I gave the cheap Anker A20i a try. Ok, no step noises but sound is terrible and in-ear passform is sub par compared to the Pixel Buds (much heavier and not round enough, it almost scratches your inner ear)
Before I try and return another batch of earbuds: Is there a nice fitting, small, non-ANC earbud wich doesn't disconnect when crossing a road under a tramline and which doesn't send my steps back into my ear as a bass drum?
submitted by
falschgold to
Earbuds [link] [comments]
2024.05.11 16:13 MKM108 Ideal charging/cord set-up for extended travel?
For context: family of 5 (kids aged 9, 11, 13) planning a year of (slow-ish) travel for a family sabbatical. Planning on 8-9 countries for 4-6 weeks each. But I know that we'll end up with some weeks where we're moving around a bit more and not just stationed at a home-base AirBNB because there will be side-trips we can't resist.
Kids will probably each have a 20-ish liter backpack for all of their things. Husband and I will each have a 30-40 liter backpack.
We currently live in northern Tanzania, but will be back in the US this summer and again next summer - but next summer will probably only be for about 2 weeks before the sabbatical travel begins. We don't have access to any branded electronics, etc., here - so I'd like to start getting our charging and cord set-up figured out this summer so that we can test it out on shorter trips before the year of travel begins.
If you were starting from scratch, what would you suggest (including specific brands/items!)? Space/weight will obviously be a factor - but so will some degree of convenience, since it's for the long haul.
Here are the electronics we'll probably have with us:
- 2 Macbook airs (USB-c)
- 2 iPhones (currently lightning for both - but mine is 5.5 years old so will probably get upgraded before the big trip and be USB-c)
- 1 iPad (lightning)
- 3 Kindle Paperwhites (USB-c)
- 1 Kindle Voyage (micro USB)
- 1 small booklight (USB-c)
- 2 pairs of beats flex headphones (USB-c)
- Probably 1 camera battery charger (micro USB) - for our Olympus Mark III M43 camera
- Fitbit watch charger
- 2 power banks (currently have an Anker 10000 + some random no-name 10000 - both can handle USB or USBC, but I'm also open to upgrading our power bank situation)
The main item that we need is obviously a
multiport adaptor that can handle charging a few devices at once (for nighttime charging). I'm thinking 4 ports/100w, but am open to suggestions. (I love the idea of the plug end just switching out for this
Minix 100w one, but I also tend to like a charging block at the end of a cord in case outlets are in funny locations - this
UGREEN one looks like a decent option.
We obviously have a variety of random charging cords, but most are classic USB on one end.
Do you have USBc-to-USBc cords you love? We have a few that came with apple purchases (the cords that came with the laptops, for instance - could just leave the brick part behind and plug into the multiport?), but am open to buying others.
To keep our cord situation simple, I'd love to find some USBc-to-lighting and USBc-to-microusb
small adaptors to just pop onto the ends of the USBc cords. Any you love and that are reliable?
My husband can't function without music on - so I think we need a small but decent bluetooth speaker. Maybe the
Tribit StormBox or
JBL Go?
I've gone down some Amazon rabbitholes, but would love suggestions - I'd rather spend a little more and have tech that works reliably and doesn't fry our devices!
Anything else I'm not thinking of that you have and love? submitted by
MKM108 to
onebag [link] [comments]
2024.05.10 18:13 Evening-Kiwi I have tried everything already to get my s23ultra to fast charge.
A week ago I got my first "moisture in charging port" message, probably due to it being humid that day. So of course I let it dry out for a little and my fast charge went right back to normal. Fast forward now everytime my phone dies it says moisture in port.
On top of that it doesnt fast charge anymore and can only normal charge if I turn the plug one way after letting it sit dead for hours (maybe signifying that one side of my port is damaged?)
To try to resolve this issue I put it in front of a fan for hours, used a q tip and a toothbrush with isopropyl numerous times, compressed air , shaking etc... Cleaned it and visibly see no gunk in there at all.... still no luck
I have tried 6 different cables ( Anker and Samsung) different 45w bricks too. I know its not the cables or bricks cause I tested on another s23 ultra and it works fine.
Safe mode , recovery reboot, airplane mode, cache partition and usb cache did not work either.
This shit is acting like i poured water in it and drank out of it.
Called Samsung and they gave me two options either take it in and pay for repair or upgrade.
Is there something im missing? And yes fast charge is toggled on
submitted by
Evening-Kiwi to
samsung [link] [comments]
2024.05.10 15:36 wispdraw Seven-day trip to Vietnam with Refugio 26L
Went to a 7-day trip to Vietnam, tried using Patagonia Refugio 26L,
failed to pack all this in my kanken, so bought this one new since I was looking for a bigger bag.
Tried Fjallraven Raven 28, but it was heavier, always fall forward and the back panel is uncomfortable for me.
Went with Patagonia for the first time, and I absolutely love it.
Clothing worn on plane: Sunglasses
Uniqlo Airism Underpants
Uniqlo Airism T-shirt loose fit for sleeping, used as pajama the whole trip
ABC Jogger, really comfortable, felt a bit warm for the weather, but perfect for the plane/nighttime stroll
Thicker socks for plane
Merino buff
Vivobarefoot Trail Knit FG
Light jacket (will be packed the whole trip)
Clothing packed, packed in Peak Design cubes M&S, and shoe pouch,: Uniqlo Airism Underpants x6
T-shirt x5 (Mostly Uniqlo, for the lightweight)
Tank top x1 (H&M)
Socks x2 (Darn tough no show)
Swimming trunks (doubles as a everyday shorts)
Xero Shoes Z-trek ii
Toiletries all packed In MUJI Toiletries bag: Matador Travel Towel
Toothbrush, Toothpaste
Razor
Deodorant
Facewash
Moisturizer, Retinol, Sunscreen
Bandaid
Headache, diarrhea, motion sickness medicine
Loop Earplug
Tech: Macbook Air 13"
Apple Watch
Bose Headphones
Anker Powerbank
External SSD
Anker powerblock, USB-C x3, USB-A x1
Cable charger (USB-C #1)
Thunderbolt Cable (USB-C #2)
Short USB-C-USB-C (USB-C #3)
USB-A -> USB-C (USB-A #1)
Documents: Passport
Wise card
Japan Residence card
Insurance card
ETC packed in MUJI rolling pouch: Keytool + key, Repel umbrella, Mask, Ballpoint, Spork
What went right:
- Packing was surprisingly easy even though it's an EDC pack, since I had to unpack all toiletries, clothing in each hotel anyway. The bag is really flexible, so repacking everything is a breeze.
- MVP for this trip is the earplug, hotel rooms that I got was not soundproof, and if you know Vietnam, they blast their horn almost 24 hours. Arguably I can just bring wireless earphones instead of big headphones, but the weight, and the shape makes it so easy for it not to fall from my ear (tested, 8 hours of sleep, it stayed in my ear)
- Bigger bag means more clothing, means I don't have to do laundry in this trip. I felt it's overpacking since normally I only pack max. 4 clothing and do laundry at least once in all my trip. But honestly, the burden-free feeling that I can just throw it in my packing cube is amazing (I am lazy)
What went wrong:
- My toothbrush got flagged by airport security, not my umbrella, not my big face soap, not my laptop, toothbrush. It's a clicFIT brush, so I think all metal body and the handle part triggered them. I stayed still while the guy unpack everything and didn't find my toothbrush until about 15 minutes. Extra staff finally found out.
- I got upgraded randomly by the airlines and then got moved to front seat, I was planning to try my pack underseat in front of me, but there's no seat, so can't do. The flight going back, there was a front seat, but I stupidly forgot about it and just put my backpack to the overhead luggage.
- Wearing barefoot shoes is fine, but wearing barefoot sandals, without properly preparing my foot first was a mistake, I got blister on my heel and had to wear shoes the rest of the trip. Train your feet folks.
I'm really happy with my first Patagonia backpack, I think I'll buy their MLC mini or something for longer trip or if I plan to bring something back from my destination.
All and all, Vietnam is absolutely amazing place to travel to, I found my favorite food other than Banh mi there, which is Bánh cuốn, egg & salt coffee. I recommend it so much, I consumed them everyday when I was there.
submitted by
wispdraw to
onebag [link] [comments]
2024.05.10 09:53 mr_boizoff MoonDrop Golden Ages 1979 TWS Earphones Review
| Another chance. I decided to give MoonDrop’s TWS earphones another chance, and it was a tough decision because MoonDrop Alice were shamefully poor in terms of connection stability and proprietary software. When it comes to MoonDrop Golden Ages 1979, which I’m gonna talk about today, my attention was drawn to their design, low cost, and a planar driver. And I also had a glimmer of hope that at least MoonDrop managed to bring the software to the users-don’t-get-sick-and-tired state, after all. https://preview.redd.it/zz8tointzjzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c0936f26d1c692c8feed95cbbc3022af992e155 I got Golden Ages (hereinafter — GA) for $80 a month ago, and now they already go for $75. This review in my blog: https://boizoff.com/language/en/moondrop-golden-ages-1979-tws-earphones-review/ What’s included The earphones come in a brightly decorated large box. https://preview.redd.it/h7mb3muuzjzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ff467edf04065676a514b5967a59e377dfcebf7 What do you get: - The earphones;
- A charging case;
- A protective cover for the charging case;
- A USB-A to USB Type-C cable;
- 4 pairs of eartips of the same type in different sizes.
There are some papers underneath, including a quality assurance service report. Design, assembly, technology TWS earphones start with a charging case, which is quite large and stylish when it comes to GA. The design and color choice is no accident: in 1979, the first Sony Walkman TPS-L2 cassette player was released, which looked like this: Source: theverge.com Therefore, there is an image of sort of a TPS-L2 window and a specific left-pointing arrow at the front of the case (the film was rewound from the right reel to the left one if you are not in the know) and an orange pairing button at the back of it. https://preview.redd.it/9a331jo10kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=461bf149090451cbd811bc00f4041f6f666254a3 There is a single green indicator diode at the front, too. The USB Type-C charging port has been moved to the bottom face. The case interior is painted orange. The earphones fit in tightly, hold on to the case with magnets, and are not loose. https://preview.redd.it/vi7izb930kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3f94ad3cfaf57cbc8bc5860f3521bce02833b82 You can pull (with noticeable effort) a transparent protective cover on the case, equipped with an eye for attaching a lanyard. https://preview.redd.it/nq7nnhi40kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8de849960b8592d328fb8b4070ff6e2a7c4dfde The case is well-made; it feels pleasantly smooth, opens and closes without creaking, with a mid-elite click. Let’s move on to the earphones and start with their technological features. The GA use a 13 mm planar driver. The manufacturer focuses on the dual suspension system implemented in this driver, as well as 4 times higher efficiency as compared to dynamic drivers of the same size. The earphones are made of gray plastic, with some themed pictures coated on the ‘sticks’ on the outside. And what’s the main, they have L and R on them. There are microphones at the ends of the stems that capture the user’s speech, one for each earphone. https://preview.redd.it/mk8x47e60kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dffee9100bb5d172cc6d5e22a5cf5cb67a811fd3 The compensation hole is neatly covered with a mesh and oriented upwards. https://preview.redd.it/iidh9fm70kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=11f0bf033b665fea23657c5bbfa4109844b6ae4e The oval-shaped sound duct is extremely short, covered with a mesh, too. There are additional holes on the inside; I suspect these are additional microphones for ANC. https://preview.redd.it/05z973t80kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27d9850f4a979245b6f5e18f69149633e41b0d88 There are charge contacts at the ends of the ‘sticks’. https://preview.redd.it/addkd73a0kzc1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=686aba1b9ecd549d3f49be122817d3563c758768 The earphones are made quite neatly, but they feel cheap: the pictures are of poor quality, and joints and burrs are visible on the plastic. The enclosures are painted, which immediately raises the question of their durability. But, as always, it is necessary to keep in mind the product price. In terms of visibility and recognition, everything is just fine: once you see them in someone’s ears, you will never mistake them for other TWS. Hardware and software Before describing the functionality of the native Android application itself, I should tell about some ins and outs, that is to say, how you can update the application and firmware so that you can see everything that is shown below. The algorithm is as follows: - Follow the link https://www.pgyer.com/SrNXCM—there is the application MoonDrop Link 2.0, version 1.0.50c-240429. (On the manufacturer’s website, there is version 1.0.0-bla-bla-bla.)
- We need to install it, launch it, go to the GA settings on the OTA tab, and select firmware version 1.1.0.
- Time for an update. It’s working like a charm.
So, the application starts from the device selection screen. Let’s choose GA. https://preview.redd.it/ra5xjm6c0kzc1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56a9c5cc6a3c21375c7acd799586ae72f42caef8 On the first EQ tab, you can select one out of 5 preset equalizers. https://preview.redd.it/z6fno9if0kzc1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ef25107dd9ae5dfdd004f15c1bf362958a6ba2d4 On the ANC tab, you can control the following values: - Noise reduction mode—acoustic transparency, all off, or active noise reduction is on.
- Enable or exclude any of these three modes from the settings rotation.
- Set the mode switching sequence.
https://preview.redd.it/o7lgd75i0kzc1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d0eeea5ce1943605d92842b275d6f1482ebb3f8 The Setting tab provides access to selecting the hardware gain mode, as well as enabling support for LDAC and LC3 codecs. https://preview.redd.it/go16k7rj0kzc1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8493be33ca358ad41f949fe3c4c5a06ee5a415f On the OTA tab, you can select one of the firmware options available online or choose a file from the local storage. https://preview.redd.it/0tm6eurm0kzc1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=958d5b89aac97991fb7a3824efa5bbb5687d20d6 The last Touch tab hosts control gesture settings. https://preview.redd.it/9j32pwoo0kzc1.jpg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bb51cec5afdf106043ec033627904ee54cf6f06 Ergonomics, usage experience Hardware Good points: - The earphones are stably connected to the source (when using LDAC, I tested them with Samsung S23 Ultra and Hiby R6III) and do not lose connection, and this is already half the battle.
- The earphones are easy to pull out of the case, they’re made for comfort of your fingers.
- Gestures are recognized and processed without any problems.
- Active noise reduction works, and it works quite well, at around the level of Soundcore Libery 3 Pro.
Ins and outs: - The earphones ‘sit’ very tightly in the case, which heavily limits options for alternative eartips: 2-flange SpinFit, large Tangzu Tang Sancai, standard ‘foams’ and many more eartips just do not let you close the case. I’ll tell about the eartips in detail below.
- The microphones are disgusting, much worse than anything in the same ballpark.
- IPX rating is not stated. However, I had functional training wearing them, sweated a lot, and the earphones survived. But I’ve only tried it once.
Lastly, there is my personal problem, which is my beard. When the acoustic transparency was on, it turned out to be impossible for me to use GA because the ‘sticks’ of the earphones touched my beard hair all the time and rustled nastily. As for the fit and enclosure geometry, I tend to regard them as normal (as to my own ears). It is impossible to forget that GA are in your ears, that is, to stop feeling them, as it works with Sony Linkbuds S. It is even difficult to wear them for 4-5 hours as the enclosures begin putting unpleasant pressure on your auricles. However, as for 3-4 hours of listening, they suit me personally quite well. It would be wrong to make any generalizations out of this very personal case. To sum up: the earphones have no problems with connection, and there is no reason to hope for the appearance of any good microphones in TWS (at the current stage of technological development) for any money in the world. Software The application has started working much better – it is more or less stable, it is logically organized, and it just works, after all. I’d like to specially mention very funny notification sounds voiced in a kawaii girlish manner, which was done by Mitsuki Yuki, the MoonDrop mascot (see the photo of the kit, the picture on the box). Compared to the nightmare that was in the days of MoonDrop Alice, the current version of Link 2.0 is the apex of grace and convenience. However, this is only if you compare Link 2.0 versions with each other. And if we take into account any competitors, then some limited capabilities come to light: - no N-band equalizer, let alone a parametric one. There are predetermined presets only;
- no notification volume setting;
- no wizard to make your own equalizer;
- no implemented function to automatically enable acoustic transparency;
- no connection to two devices;
- no sleep timer setting in idle mode;
- no way to control the volume using gestures;
- no way to switch equalizer presets using gestures.
Besides, in order to upgrade to firmware 1.1.0, you need to google really badly and make it through to the method that I described above. There is also lousy English, but that already seems to be hopeless. On the other hand, GA and those TWS that can do all of the above are apples and oranges in terms of their pricing. Quick specifications overview - Design: closed-back ‘earbuds’.
- Drivers: 1 planar driver.
- Weight of a single earpiece: 5 grams.
- Weight of the case with the earphones inside: 46 grams.
- Bluetooth version: 5.3.
- Dust and moisture protection: none.
- Audio transmission protocols: SBC, AAC, LDAC, LC3.
- Earphone battery life: approx. 5 hours when using LDAC and medium gain level.
- Earphone charging time: approx. 1 hour.
- Case charging time: approx. 1.5 hours.
Subjective sound impression Since the earphones have 5 equalizer presets, we need to talk about them point-by-point. Surprisingly, 4 out of 5 presets are not bad. They are frankly listenable and are a little more ‘like or dislike’ and a little less ‘failed tuning or OK tuning’. Only the Secret preset sounds as if someone fell asleep on the keyboard when tuning: this is a totally, mysteriously distorted sound. So, I stayed with the Basshead preset for the outside and the Reference one for home. By ear, these two presets differ only in the amount of subbass, which you would want more in a noisy urban environment, especially as GA has certain problems with sound insulation. GA sound… great. They sound just phenomenally good and ‘right’ for TWS earphones in general and even more so for such inexpensive TWS earphones. In terms of subbass and bass tuning, MoonDrop bucked the trend and did not ‘pile up’ 120 Hz on them so that they would beat and shake on your head, leaving all frequencies to the left behind. In GA, the subbass dominates the bass. They are well separated and do not ‘overlap’ each other. I can assume that the frequency response in this part is linear, but rotated clockwise. The choice of eartips is very important: if you do not hear subbass or it is subtle and not deep, try different eartips (see the next section). The lower middle and middle sections are just great, I don’t know how else to describe them. They are full-fledged, smooth, informative, and everything is just fine with them. The upper middle section reveals a little fly in the ointment: GA sound a bit unnaturally in this frequency range, a little shriller than necessary. And that’s because the volume at 4 kHz should be lower than one at 2.7 kHz. GA have them equal, or even 4 kHz may outvoice 2.7. This gives rise to sharpness, sort of ‘detail’, but also artificiality of the sound. I need to underline: this is about a fine nuance and not about a fatal tuning error. And further up, to the right of the frequency response graph, everything is fine up to nearly 11-12 kHz, where the listener will find the nastiest surprise in GA tuning – a gargantuan mountain. The ‘mountain’ can be heard, and rustling and ‘crackling’ appear on some tracks that actively use this range. Some people do like it, but I don’t. The disaster is not immense, it is still a category of ‘I don’t give a shit pretty much’/’you can get used to it’, as you like. And it’s still infinitely better than, say, Fiio FW5, true story. The feeling of the virtual sound stage is realistic, but it is more deep rather than wide. There is no incredible sound source positioning. Thus, I am inclined to rate the GA tuning as outstanding, despite that annoying Qomolangma at 11 kHz. I don’t remember any manufacturer setting up TWS earphones so well, so deliberately. Eartip choice Eartips for GA are a pain in the ass because of two facts: - the GA sound depends on the eartips A LOT and, at the same time,
- the choice of eartips for GA is strictly limited to ‘short’ models because the charging case will not close otherwise.
And I would like to change the eartips because the ones provided do not ensure really good sound insulation, which is why there is not enough subbass, and ANC works not really effectively. The good news is that usual ’round’ eartips can be pulled on oval sound ducts of the earphones quite well. My list of what you can put on GA, with the earphones fitting in the case: - JBL Project Rock;
- Whizzer ET100AB;
- Tangzu Tang Sancai – Wide bore;
- SpinFit OMNI;
- Zhulinniao Zhu Rythme;
- Sony EP-NI1000 (eartips WF-1000xm4).
All kinds of SpinFit CP100, CP240, ‘foams’ by KZ and many other models will go with the earphones, but not with the case, so to speak. How does the GA sound change in dependence to the eartips? Radically: https://preview.redd.it/rt468wyy0kzc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=285417bd9ebb4921aae0e3c500de26637d9befca The fit depth also has an additive effect, although with such an earphone form factor it can be varied within very small limits: https://preview.redd.it/ukjrnor01kzc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b639fcc1c393fb5ea290b24808d68b61eed26704 Personally, I chose Tangzu Tang Sancai – Wide bore. They turned out to be the most comfortable for me and the closest to the eartips provided in terms of sounding. But they insulate much better. Measurements The headphones were used with the Hiby R6III player (LDAC). A measuring rig conforms to the IEC60318-4 standard. The smoothing is indicated on the graphs. I’ve described the limitations of the rig and the headphones measurements in general in this article. This is the basic frequency response graph for GA with ANC turned on, medium gain, and the Reference preset: https://preview.redd.it/fl1111o31kzc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb976ea7a64fc9abdf8cbe7ca774470c2115bb68 And it’s an absolutely brilliant setup because: - the subbass is between the Harman curve and the neutral curve;
- the middle corresponds to the Harman curve;
- the upper frequency range falls below the neutral curve;
- it all starts looking ill at 12 kHz.
The upshot is tuning, which sound is more fun compared to completely neutral one, but it’s still not as V-shaped as Harman. It is very smooth, with 5-6 kHz correctly ‘suppressed’, but with 4 kHz raised, which negatively affects the sound. And there are immediate answers to basic questions: is sound delivery different with ANC on an off? No. https://preview.redd.it/x0lj3cy51kzc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0c8d1d2e7c59d2380297311bcad9db8294db52e Reddit does not allow to insert more pictures, so please conitue reading here. submitted by mr_boizoff to headphones [link] [comments] |
2024.05.09 17:16 Both-Individual-1600 Razer Core X bandwidth bottleneck in cuda-z
| I am using Asus Zenbook, I5-12500H with Razer Core x with 4060-TI in it. Using external monitor connected directly to GPU. Though I didn't notice any significant performance improvement over my old laptop with built in 1650TI. Tried a lot of different things from reinstalling drivers etc. Also read a lot of threads, including here on reddit, that TB cable itself might be the issue. So I tried a couple of different and expensive cables like Anker, Spigen etc. But the result is always the same. I am testing bandwidth with Cuda-Z and it shows 500 Mbits host to device and 700 Mbits device to host. While it should be about 2000 Mbits each directiion. What could be the reason? I invested so much in this setup (wanted to get away from my old heavy laptop to be more mobile, but at the same time to be able to play games while at home). Help please. https://preview.redd.it/ytdixo1nvfzc1.png?width=425&format=png&auto=webp&s=bbda94176d08a782e27901abf9a27dcae853f5e1 submitted by Both-Individual-1600 to eGPU [link] [comments] |
2024.05.06 21:20 ScrumpleRipskin Beginner needs help - I thought I had a good portable setup w/ Anker F2000 and 2x 400W Renogy Solar Suitcase but I don't think I can connect both regardless of wiring series or parallel
TLDR: What are my cost-effective and portable options to either reduce 80 VDC to a stable 60 VDC or reduce 25-30 amps and keep it just under 20 amps? Thanks in advance
Brand new to this and think I have made a mistake matching panels with a solar generator and need a second set of eyes on what I am trying to do. I wanted a portable LiFePO4 setup robust enough to power a small 5000 BTU, 4-500ish watts AC and handle its peak power when starting. I wanted it from a manufacturer that would be around long enough to honor the long warranty. The Anker F2000 checks all those boxes no problem and has an amazing form factor w/ wheels and pull handle. With the additional battery I can power a small AC all night long and then some. I'm using 25' runs of 10 AWG w/ MC4 from the panels and XT60 on the Anker F2000 side.
The panels are Renogy 400w Solar Suitcases. The only portable / foldable panels I have found with rigid aluminum frames instead of those floppy cloth/soft plastic things that have terrible kick stands that collapse in a slight breeze.
I have connected one panel no problem. I was hoping to connect 2 but it might not be working out regardless of series or parallel and I need some help before I connect them.
These are the specs for one 400w solar suitcase:
- Max Power at STC: 400W
- Open Circuit Voltage: 47.2V
- Short Circuit Current: 11A
- Optimum Operating Voltage: 40V
- Optimum Operating Current: 10A
- Maximum System Voltage: 600VDC
- Maximum Series Fuse Rating: 15A
The F2000 says it can handle 1000 watts (based on 5 of their own brand 200w panels.) The wattage is purely what I (mistakenly) went with when ordering the two 400 watt panels that I thought I would be able to connect at the same time.
The problem begins when trying to add the second panel to the setup: in parallel, the 20 combined amps is probably cutting it too close and will probably blow the F2000's internal 20 amp fuse, right? Because, the two panels in parallel would probably be closer to and need to be fused at 25 or probably 30 amps.
In series, since the the F2000 can only handle 60 volts, the combined 80 volts from the panels is too much for the F2000 to handle.
So, what the heck can I do? Can I get some kind of in-line 20 ohm resistor (or some other voltage regulator) to reduce the DC voltage to 60? I'm guessing it's more expensive to regulate the amps to 20? What can do that?
Or do I pack up the F2000 and hopefully find some other portable unit that can handle the input of my two panels and the output requirements I need to handle the AC unit? I really, really don't feel like packing up these things, plus I already tossed the cartons after they tested out good since I have no room.
submitted by
ScrumpleRipskin to
SolarDIY [link] [comments]
2024.05.06 05:36 1WangedAngel [WTS/WTT] SiS - Nintendo 3DS, Sony Pulse 3D PS5 Headset, Beats Solo2 Wired, Amazon Echo (Alexa) 2nd gen, NIKE combat boots, docking station
Timestamp:
https://imgur.com/a/ibfSw47 Pics:
https://imgur.com/a/CpbZI42 Nintendo New 3ds XL - comes with case, stylus, and the below games:
Fire Emblem Echoes, Fire Emblem Fates: Birthright, Fire Emblem Fates: Conquest, Super Mario 3D Land (only this one has a case), New Super Mario Bros 2
Very light usage and no functional issues—love the idea of it and the 3D looks way better than I expected it to but my hands are just too big to play it comfortably for more than an hour. TV/SV:
$180 170
Sony Pulse 3D wireless headset for PS5 (with usb dongle): Works great and in very good condition, consolidated to something that also works with Xbox and don’t need my place to be full of gaming headsets if a lady hypothetically come over. Yes there’s visibly two bigass consoles. Shut up. TV: $65, SV: $55
Beats Solo 2 wired: Ear cups recently replaced (glued—the adhesive on the replacements was shit) and the right size adjustment ratchet is a little loose (it holds under normal wear but is noticeably looser than the left one). Aftermarket cable. Sound is great! TV - $50, SV - $40?
Amazon Echo (Alexa) 2nd gen: Nice smart speaker, got tinfoil hatty and decided I didn’t want a listening device in my living room like my phone wasn’t already beaming me advertisements for shit I’d only silently thought of. Great condition, minimal use, works perfect as of when I unplugged it and threw it in a drawer. Tested it boots etc when I wiped it just now. TV:$50, SV:$40?
NIKE SFB special field boots gen 2, black, size 11.5 Men’s. Wore to the range a couple times, got a little muddy but minimal wear. They just don’t fit my feet well but I have weird feet. Not promising they’ll arrive pristine but will clean more of the mud off them I was just rushing to get this posted before it’s too late for anyone to see it. TV: $75, SV: $65
Sabrent laptop docking station, 1 hdmi, 1 dvi. Solid, just upgraded cuz I needed 2 hdmis. TV: $40, SV:$30
Anker wireless charging pad 7.5: nothing fancy but it’s fine and cheap. $5 if purchased with something else, $10 if alone
Looking to trade fotowards any of the following, cash on either side as appropriate:
Non-LCI P365 (3.1”) barrel, Xmacro mags, 21rd p320 mags, xmacro/spectre comp DPM recoil kit, Icarus B-Ace pads for xmacro, aluminum base pads for 21rd p320 mags (or + capacity basepads for 17rd p320 mags), competition belt mag pouches, Primary Arms 3x LER magnifier with flip-down mount, ambi safety switch for AR, helikon-Tex modular med kit pouch (pref adaptive green), maybe an M-LOK Bipod, Magpul MS4 sling, AR QD endplate, Cajun Gunworks stuff for p-07
submitted by
1WangedAngel to
GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]
2024.05.05 15:29 TheBaldNerd Inverted (negative) colors on Apple TV 4K, 2022 version
Hi everyone, I’ve seen some posts about this but I’m having continuing issues with the colors inverting on my Apple TV 4K with Dolby Vision enabled. I have a TCL series 6 TV from about five years ago that supports Dolby Vision. The HDMI input is HDMI 2.0. I’m using a HDMI 2.1 cable from Anker to connect the Apple TV to my TCL TV. The color issue only occurs when playing content, not the main menu itself, or any steaming app menu. There are times where I unplugged the HDMI cable and reconnect it, and the issue gets resolved, and then the same issue pops up again later. The only permanent solution I seem to have found is to disable Dolby Vision in the Apple TV settings and use HDR 10 instead. But clearly, I want to use Dolby Vision when it’s available.
The HDMI connection test in the Apple TV settings, says that everything is fine, no issues found.
What could be going on here making the colors invert into the negative spectrum when playing content?
Any help on this issue would be very much appreciated.
submitted by
TheBaldNerd to
appletv [link] [comments]
2024.05.05 08:01 BabyCandid5774 Elite 10 and Elite 8, ANC turns off on calls
Returned and exchanged the 8 for the 10 believing that it was function issue, but the experience is the same. Regardless if I'm connected to my PC laptop or my android phone, ANC is on when I'm listening to music, but as soon as I join a call, the noise cancelling turns off. I have tested out many other brands (Pixel, Samsung, Bose, Technics, Redmi, Tozo, Anker, Sony). Only Jabra behave this way. Can someone suggest a software setting I can make to keep noise cancelling on during calls, so I won't have to return another pair of earbuds? Thank you!
submitted by
BabyCandid5774 to
Jabra [link] [comments]
2024.05.04 21:22 freesoul_mc94 Broken AAC bluetooth decoding on Android 13/14
After my Samsung S22 was updated to Android 13 and then 14 I noticed a drastic loss of audio quality in Bluetooth playback in earbuds/headphones/speakers using AAC decoding. Both in my earbuds (Anker Soundcore Life A2 NC) and in my headphones (Bose NC700) I notice a high distortion of the sound as if it plays at 96kbps. This problem happens regardless of the app used (Spotify, Deezer, Samsung Music). This problem did not occur on Android 12.
I've tested on other phones with Android 13/14 (Samsung M52, Google Pixel 6, and Xiaomi 12) and all of them have the same problem. However, this distortion appears to only occur when audio is decoded using the AAC codec. If you switch to an audio device using LDAC, the problem does not occur. Some could argue that this is a consequence of AAC being a lower-quality codec, but this is not true as the problem does not occur in devices running Android 12 or lower.
Has someone else noticed this problem?
submitted by
freesoul_mc94 to
AndroidQuestions [link] [comments]
2024.05.04 21:22 freesoul_mc94 Broken AAC bluetooth decoding on Android 13/14
After my Samsung S22 was updated to Android 13 and then 14 I noticed a drastic loss of audio quality in Bluetooth playback in earbuds/headphones/speakers using AAC decoding. Both in my earbuds (Anker Soundcore Life A2 NC) and in my headphones (Bose NC700) I notice a high distortion of the sound as if it plays at 96kbps. This problem happens regardless of the app used (Spotify, Deezer, Samsung Music). This problem did not occur on Android 12.
I've tested on other phones with Android 13/14 (Samsung M52, Google Pixel 6, and Xiaomi 12) and all of them have the same problem. However, this distortion appears to only occur when audio is decoded using the AAC codec. If you switch to an audio device using LDAC, the problem does not occur. Some could argue that this is a consequence of AAC being a lower-quality codec, but this is not true as the problem does not occur in devices running Android 12 or lower.
Has someone else noticed this problem?
submitted by
freesoul_mc94 to
AndroidHelp [link] [comments]
http://swiebodzin.info