Ebay transmissions

Just purchased 03 Disco.

2024.05.20 10:26 sclhzrd13 Just purchased 03 Disco.

So as titled I just got an 03 disco. Litterally Friday 5/17/24 (for post clarity). That being said. It has a whole host of problems. Which I’m trying to tackle 1 at a time. Already re mounted the Y pipe someone took 4 of the 6 nuts off and left hang on other 2 with one bolt snapped. Cooked the hell out of the O2 sensor wire on bank 2. Reading through the forums I apparently have the “3 amigo” lights. At a glance it appears they took the air bags off the rear end so I’m guessing that’s one of the reasons. Break fluid is topped off but discovered parking break line is completely disconnected which may explain my brake light. Abs is lit up. No clue why yet. Traction control. And decent control? Idk the hill one with the big ! On it. Randomly my M-S lights kick on flashing on dash with the led on shift panel flashing with them. Haven’t been able to pinpoint what actually triggers it. When they aren’t on she shifts like a dream. Seems prone to occurs when transmission is at operating them tho I think from driving around town. Any help would be amazing. First order I think is solving the intermittent MS problem. Guy I bought it off already has an EBay special XYZ switch but I did the weird “turn on wipers and put in reverse to see if rear kicks on” and it did so supposedly the switch is good? Idk if that reliable. Oh and also it’s stuck in 4x4 high 😅.
Edit cause I forgot check engine codes are only misfire on cylinder 5 (pretty sure bad plug/wire cause exhaust cooked those too) and O2 sensor. Which obviously also exhaust cause. No other codes.
submitted by sclhzrd13 to LandRoverDiscovery [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 17:48 paganize Determining price points, and requesting a sanity check.

This doesn't really fit here, sorry.
the product: a cellphone case that blocks 95%+ of transmissions and (the unusual bit) isolates the phone from external noise...your phone can't hear whats going on outside the case except at very high noise levels. I don't think it's patentable, but I'm doing a provisional patent just in case.
the main problem is unless I got huge orders, which I don't necessarily want, they are expensive and require about an hour of hand assembly. oh, and as these are custom shaped to avoid the "oh, it's a brick shaped box" issue, I ony plan on making them for a couple of popular models. note: phone is TOTALLY UNUSABLE while in the case.
i'm estimating about $45 material cost, and an hour labor at $20/hr, so $65 each?
I don't think it's worthwhile except as a hobby project; I'll make about 30, put them on ebay for $100 a pop, and move on to the next weirdness.
i'd like opinions; are there any flaws in my logic?
note: before you say "government sales!@!", take a look at the Galaxy S23 tactical edition.
submitted by paganize to invention [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 14:05 Chance_Government_74 Is this a scam?

I recently saw a car on marketplace for $800 + shipping that is in perfect condition. i sent the seller a message and they directed me to an email where i asked why it was only $800. The seller got back to me saying, “I'm emailing you about the 2007 Nissan Murano SL with automatic transmission, a 3.5-liter 6-cylinder engine, and only 109,415 miles. The car is in perfect condition, with a clear title, no accidents, and no liens or loans. Never had or needed any paint or body work done; garaged keep it always, without any mechanical problems. The final price is $800 (including delivery to your home address).
The car was a gift for my husband, who unfortunately can't enjoy it anymore because he passed away due to a sudden heart attack 2 months ago. The car brings me only bad memories, and that's the reason I want to sell it at this price. I'm looking to sell it to someone who will use the car.
I work as a flight attendant for an airline, and I'm gone during this time in Los Angeles, CA. I'm not able to handle the sale. Before leaving I had arranged everything with eBay Motors so my presence is not necessary. The transaction will be made online (the car is in their possession ready to be delivered). If you are interested in buying the car, send me your full name, shipping address and phone number, so I can register as my buyer and they will start the transaction between us.
If you wish to purchase with payments, don't have the entire amount, or want financing, please don't contact me back.” where it was then signed with a different name and email. any comments are much appreciated!
submitted by Chance_Government_74 to FacebookMarketplace [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 19:35 selenamazda6 Trying to get back to what was

Trying to get back to what was
2005 Mazda6 isport hatchback with the N/A (naturally aspirated) 2.3 engine and 5 speed manual transmission.
I’ve swapped the engine 3 times (finally found the problem and fixed it) Had my transmission rebuilt once Replaced the clutch Have a cheesy ass eBay cold air intake Installed Motegi Traklite V1’s Maxpeeding struts and springs Reinstalled a rear driver window after someone kicked in the door and broke the window
This is my car she’s a pain but she’s cool 👍
submitted by selenamazda6 to mazda6 [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 08:55 Important_Fennel_655 ZF S5-42 shifter and housing

ZF S5-42 shifter and housing
Hi from the UK! I'm looking what we call a gear box turret, to for onto a ZF S5-42 transmission I believe they came in f250 & f350 rangers? Correct me if I'm mistaken. Struggling to use eBay to search stateside only, any help would be much appreciated. Pictured above is the only option here in the UK but it way to priced and never in stock!
submitted by Important_Fennel_655 to Ford [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 04:51 Firm-South-3071 2 Core Radiator?!

2 Core Radiator?!
Bought a 2 core radiator for my 35th anniversary. Inside the radiator cap inlet, there’s a tube and the stock one doesn’t? I investigated and I think it’s for the transmission cooler. Can anyone confirm? I don’t want to put coolant where I shouldn’t lol… I don’t know why it’s exposed like that but it is an eBay radiator…
submitted by Firm-South-3071 to c4corvette [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 23:49 Important_Fennel_655 ZF S5-42 shifter and housing

ZF S5-42 shifter and housing
Hi from the UK! I'm looking what we call a gear box turret, to for onto a ZF S5-42 transmission I believe they came in f250 & f350 rangers? Correct me if I'm mistaken. Struggling to use eBay to search stateside only, any help would be much appreciated. Pictured above is the only option here in the UK but it way to priced and never in stock!
submitted by Important_Fennel_655 to fordranger [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 16:04 LauralBeth93 Anyone purchased any of the clutch kits off of eBay?

Anyone purchased any of the clutch kits off of eBay?
Some have good reviews but looking for personal experience. And which one did you go with if you did purchase..
12 days til it goes in the shop and I wanna make a good decision on this!
Plz no rude comments. Such as my car is junk or just let it go because the transmission are all crap. Yes I know.. It’s a good car, I’m fixing it and that’s my choice 🤷‍♀️ it’s made it to almost 190,000 miles on one clutch. thanks!!!
submitted by LauralBeth93 to FordFocus [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 15:29 -OrlandoVol- Bought my 2nd S2K a month ago!

Bought my 2nd S2K a month ago!
For the past 9 years I have regretted selling my '02 S2000 -- I bought it on Ebay Motors in 2005 and flew out to Houston and drove it back to Florida. For 10 years that car gave me so much joy, and even though I DD'd it for the first 8 years I had it I enjoyed every minute of ownership.
While I loved the Comptech Supercharger, I wish I would have kept it NA -- eventually blew up the motor, rebuilt it/sleeved the block (which of course led to AEM standalone, bigger injectors, more boost) and after 2 years blew it again because of a bad build. At that point, we were planning on having a kid -- and I did the "responsible/smart thing" and sold it.
I took a trip to Japan back in March -- I rented an S2k for the day to drive from Tokyo to Motegi and toured the Honda Collection Hall/Twin Ring Track and that night I knew I needed another S2k in my life.
After sifting through the internet, finding a bunch of trash cars and potential headaches -- I found the one, on cars and bids — 2004 w/112k, 2 owners and zero mods. I won the auction and then flew out to Dallas, and drove it back home to Orlando.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve: -Replaced the suspension with Bilstein PSS9 coilovers -Rebuilt the shifter -Replaced the motor mounts, transmission mounts and diff mounts -Changed the oil/trans/diff fluids -Replaced the valve cover with a new OEM w/ all new gaskets, bolts and seals -Replaced the spark plugs -Did a valve adjustment
Car is running like a dream!
submitted by -OrlandoVol- to S2000 [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 07:48 Separate-Invite-5240 Can I swap out a TCM without reprogramming ?

Can I swap out a TCM without reprogramming ?
While replacing my solenoids for my 6hp26 transmission I noticed a missing pin from the TCM connection and I didn’t think much of it until my car didn’t start until I put it in neutral , also got a code 5088” stating a faulty range sensor , so I purchased a TCM identical to mines on eBay , would I have to reprogram or just slap it on? And if it needs reprogramming how would it be done?
submitted by Separate-Invite-5240 to BmwTech [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 21:55 AromaticAminoAcid If I came into your shop, would you install this cat converter on my car?

I drive a 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS 4D Sedan, 183,000 miles, automatic transmission.
I am considering a universal CARB compliant cat converter to pass an emissions test (P0420 fail). Universal is about $500. Direct fit is almost $2k. I hear that universals can be iffy for passing emissions and lasting a long time. Here is the link, would you install this on my car, and if so, how much would you charge for labor?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225592717065?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qNq02EnRQDa&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
submitted by AromaticAminoAcid to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2024.05.12 13:41 dergachoff Lincoln owners, please recommend garage

Hey! Today I've become an owner of a Lincoln MKX '16 and am extremely happy with the purchase. It's 170k km and with minor issues, but the deal was good, I believe. Please recommend a good garage with Lincoln/Ford experience, where I'm less likely to get scammed with lackluster work or inflated prices on unnecessary services. What I'll need: — Regular minor services — Transmission fluid change — Check a few electronic issues — Probably install Sync 3 w/carplay upgrade kit
Also what are the best way to get parts? Ebay? Any local marketplaces? Ajman car graveyards? :)
Cheers to everybody!
submitted by dergachoff to DubaiPetrolHeads [link] [comments]


2024.05.11 01:52 AJ_NoSleep Discussion : Claims of cheating in the CCT and other online Chesscom events ; are the anti-cheating measures sufficient?

Discussion : Claims of cheating in the CCT and other online Chesscom events ; are the anti-cheating measures sufficient?
Claims of cheating in the CCT ; are the anti-cheating measures sufficient?
This event, as widely known, has been surrounded by a lot of controversy over implied or veiled accusations amongst players accusing other players of potentially cheating.
Nepo today after his loss to Lazavik posted "At least won one game, should be satisfied!". He then replied to a user who said "Lazavik plays fantastically well on the internet" (no prizes for guessing what he means) with this tweet below : https://twitter.com/lachesisq/status/1789012186439848285
However, this is not the first occasion on which Yan, and other top GMs, have suggested that other GMs are cheating during this event.
In the last edition of the same CCT event, after losing to Jospem, and Jospem subsequently drawing Lazavik, Yan made the following post, showing another participant, MVL's thoughts :
https://twitter.com/lachesisq/status/1753506063813353701
This comment, apparently made by Maxime, was sent to Yan, who decided to post it on his Twitter page.
It doesn't just stop with these two ; GM Eric Hansen, shortly after the Kramnik Hikaru drama first kicked off, stated that multiple top GMs had expressed to him privately that they suspected Hikaru, a past SCC and past CCT participant, and probably the most prominent online GM, of cheating online.
Another top GM, Fabiano Caruana, expressed in a podcast with Greg Mustreader, a chess Youtuber, that he estimated he played two cheaters every Titled Tuesday, and further, that he believed players in the top10 could potentially be cheating.
Whilst we cannot accurately judge the veracity of these claims, with little to no evidence to go off suggesting that any of Lazavik, Jospem or Hikaru or any other GMs are cheating, what is clear is that there is a huge paranoia amongst top GMs surrounding cheating, and not just a phenomenon spread by the likes of Kramnik. Given that events such as the CCT, with a total prize pool of $2,000,000 in 2023, are played online, an urgent and pertinent question must be, are the claims of these top players founded, and are the anti-cheat regulations sufficient for tournaments of such magnitude?
------------------------INDIVIDUAL CLAIMS AGAINST PLAYERS---------------------- :
The first thing to note, before I start this write-up, is that I believe individual accusations against players, unless founded, to be fruitless, unproductive, and potentially extremely unfair, to players who play fairly and could have been falsely accused by the likes of Kramnik.
Whilst multiple GMs have accused the likes of Hikaru, Jospem, Lazavik or others of cheating online, it is necessary to say that no real evidence exists to accuse these, or any prominent GMs in CCT or other online events, of cheating.
This does not mean that none of them are cheating. It could be that many top GMs are cheating, or none are. It is just that we lack any sufficient evidence to make individual accusations, and therefore they are unproductive and fraught with risk.
The discussion should instead be surrounding the underlying systemic basis of anti-cheat detection, and whether we can have trust in the system currently in place, as in the end, the effectiveness of anti-cheat hinges on the measures put in place by the organisers. Without those measures being validated, there will never be any sufficient basis to accuse people, or exonerate people, of cheating.
In essence, if there is a cheating problem in chess, the solution lies not in accusing individual GMs, but showing the integrity of, or lack thereof, of the chesscom anti-cheating measures, which would be the main cause of any potential problem and the foundation to target to improve the situation of cheating.
Are the anti-cheating measures in the CCT sufficient? (My opinion)
My initial test statement for determining if the measures are sufficient, is comparing them to standard OTB practise, and if they fulfill the standards proposed by FIDE and by major tournament organisers in real OTB events. Given the significant prize money on offer in online chess events, it is reasonable to expect the anti-cheating regulations, at the minimum, to be on par with major OTB tournaments, if not better. Any failure to do such, means that they are not fulfilling the standards required in normal chess anti-cheating practise, which have been set in response to a number of mechanisms in which OTB participants may cheat. If these standards are not matched, this means theoretical cheating mechanisms not possible OTB become possible in online tournaments.
According to public information, the anti-cheating measures at the CCT mainly consist of multiple cameras set up in the player's rooms to allow arbiters to see different angles and access to the player's computer through screen sharing. I have also heard that the arbiters view Task Manager. However, I could not find a definitive link from Chesscom stating what their actual anti-cheating measures are for this extremely lucrative event, raising questions in itself (which I will address later after giving my opinion on these measures specifically).
Whilst the proposed measures seem to prevent rudimentary cheating methods, such as the use of a phone or openly displayed device during the game, they leave significant questions on whether this sort of anti-cheat regulation will be enough at all to stop any kind of sophisticated cheating.
Problem 1 - do the cameras cover every inch of the player's room, and all objects or structures?
I have heard (again, nothing official, as chesscom do not confirm) that they require the player to use two cameras (I have also heard 'multiple' from Chesscom mods, but again, no official confirmation). Are two, or any number of cameras, enough to spatially verify the entirety of the playing area, including all corners of the room, the floor, and the ceiling, all structures and objects in the participant's house, and any other potential rooms in which accomplices may work with them to cheat? If the cameras do not cover every inch of the participant's home, they therefore cannot definitively confirm there are not some areas of the playing space being used for cheating. This is breaking OTB regulations in which every inch of the playing area is in some way accounted for by tournament organisers, and confirmed as not being used for cheating purposes.
This doesn't just consist of using engines or technological devices to cheat - it could be something as simple as just writing long theoretical lines somewhere near your person which is not covered by cameras. It could consist of having certain books or theory near to your person. All of which would give a huge preparation advantage, and which is expressely forbidden under OTB rules. Do the cameras used by the players have the quality and the scope to fully see all areas of the house in high quality picture, to confirm no possible cheating appendices, accomplices, theory books or lines in the playing area?
Problem 2 - does Chesscom have sufficient technological expertise, and practical capability, to confirm the subject is not cheating on their computer?
Spectating someone in a technological environment in which they have complete control is very difficult. There are a number of mechanisms such as Virtual Machines in which alternate desktops can be created, outside of the view of an arbiter on Zoom, for example, and additionally, since the subject has control of their data in a closed environment, it can't be ruled out that any screen sharing transmitted through Zoom or other screen sharing program to arbiters can be falsified. Cheaters with sufficient technological knowledge, or perhaps, hired technological knowledge, could theoretically falsify program data, for example, or to ensure that particular screens are hidden from the view of the arbiter on their external connection through Zoom, as in screen sharing connections, you can only see what the subject allows you to see. Whilst it may be obvious if someone is hiding a certain screen, if they lack the knowledge to be able to do it effectively, it may become much more of a problem if a technologically capable cheater manages to hide cheating appendices through technology such as VMs and alternate desktops. Additionally, given the unreliability of Zoom calls and screen sharing at times, which can be dependent on a player's internet, any lag, freezing, or abnormality in the subject's screen sharing could be plausibly put down to short-term connection issues, which would be very difficult to disprove without having direct access to the subject's PC. (if a player briefly disconnects from the game and Zoom, and immediately reconnects 30 seconds later, for example, after having viewed some tab, how would Chesscom manage this situation? Could they issue any punishment for what may legitimately be short lived connection problems? One such incident happened, for example, where GM Mamedyarov disconnected, due to legitimate connection problems, for a substantial amount of time before the start of an online game in a large tournament.) Therefore, unless Chesscom are either physically or virtually directly accessing the subject's PC, and being allowed to themselves search through the PC for any cheating devices, before, during and after the game, it is impossible to rule out that the computer itself could be used for cheating. This raises further questions on whether such searches violate the player's privacy ; it is entirely reasonable that players would decline to have their personal laptops or PCs fully searched due to personal information that may be revealed during the process of the search, meaning it seems practically impossible for Chesscom to carry out such searches to fully determine the use of the computer.
It is possible that Chesscom do have such measures in place to directly access the player's PC through virtual connections, and search through it, however, this has not been publicly confirmed, again.
Problem 3 - is there complete sound verification of the subject's environment, and are the sound capturing devices fully verified as sufficiently operational?
Not all cameras have sound capability, or some have very weak sound capability. Are chesscom confirming that all camera devices used by players have a sufficient sound capability, and that the sounds coming from them go through a full authentication process to confirm that is legitimate sound from the subject's environment?
Without physical checking and confirmation of the players cameras to confirm they meet an acceptable sound standard, or that they have any sound capability at all, it is impossible to determine whether the sound transmitted to arbiters is of a sufficient quality to detect possible cheating.
If this was not the case, putative cheating could consist of moves being verbally communicated to the cheater by some accomplice or by text to speech devices, for example, which would not require the cheater to physically view a device or cheating tool, but simply to hear moves being called out, which would possibly not be detected by the arbiters if the hearing devices were of poor quality or without authentic sound.
For example : a cheater hears moves being called out from another room in the house, or near the house, or possibly, otherwise any verbal cues possibly transmitted through code (which is another problem, but we will get onto this). To hide this, they play standard white noise, or typical traffic sounds that could plausibly come from their environment, near to their cameras which provide sound, to make the signs of cheating less audible. Are there any mitigation factors for this?
For example : a cheater uses a camera with very poor sound quality, or no sound quality, so that the arbiters cannot hear moves or verbal cheating. Are there mitigation factors for this?
If the case, this contravenes OTB environments where arbiters are physically present to hear all sounds in the playing area and confirm the sources of the sounds.
Problem 4 - Is it theoretically or practically possible to detect if potential cheating is happening through coded or verbal cues, without being physically present at the site?
For example, cheaters may communicate through a certain code in which they transmit moves, or signals, to their accomplices and other cheaters to give them crucial information during the game. Hypothetically, this could consist of very basic things, such as honking a horn if the player is down on the evaluation bar, or making any certain sound to indicate the player is up on the evaluation bar, the player should play for a draw, and so on, or it could further consist of more complex cheating methods through coded sounds or speech, hidden as genuine environmental sounds (like horns honking, cars driving past, people talking in the street) to indicate what move should be played. Given the extremely substantial amount of prize money on offer, such a cheating mechanism is well within reason for players genuinely looking to cheat, and seems to have no apparent solution.
This contradicts OTB cheating regulations in which any strange sounds would be investigated and verified by the arbiters present, including removal of said individuals from the playing hall and halting of those certain sounds, with additional investigation sure to follow.
---PROBLEM 5 (BIGGEST PROBLEM!) :
How is it possible to verify a player has no cheating devices hidden on their person, or in appendices on their person, such as glasses, headphones, earpieces within the ear, without physically searching them at the playing area?
It is impossible to verify if a player has a cheating device concealed on their person through remote investigations ; objectively impossible, and one of the foremost regulations at major OTB tournaments ; all participants must be sufficiently searched with relevant detecting tools, such as metal detectors or frequency detectors, to ensure they have no cheating device on their person.
The current anti-cheat regulations, from what is seen, cannot possibly verify that players are not cheating with items physically hidden on their person, as they simply cannot virtually search the players.
This provides extremely troubling, very simple mechanisms of cheating, through which a player could easily steal thousands of dollars in prize money through simple methods to evade anti cheat detection.
This means it is already objectively possible to cheat in CCT events through appendices hidden, or plausibly worn, on the person, if physical searches of the players are not carried out.
A simple Google search already shows commercially available, cheap camera glasses with a purposefully concealed camera for 'spy' purposes : https://www.dictaphones.co.uk/Speak-IT-Premier-Spy-Camera-Glasses-p/spepcg.htm. As known, many chess players wear glasses, given they are commonly used through the population and necessary for some people ; normally not a problem at OTB tournaments, as they would undergo some kind of examination. However, these could be hypothetically used to stream the live action in the game in an online tournament to a potential accomplice, who would then signal through some means, such as verbal code, or an earpiece, to the cheater.
Such cameras could also be hidden within large headphones, that Chesscom has permitted players to wear - or hidden within smart watches the players are allowed to wear, or hidden in general wear, such as shirts, chains, pens, vases somewhere in the room etc, to allow viewing of the game by an accomplice who could therefore then assist the player in cheating. The possibilities are endless without physical searches of the playing area, which is the cornerstone of OTB regulations, and an obvious necessity to confirm that cheating does not take place.
Another simple Google search shows that minature earpieces, the physical size of a pin, are available for cheap prices on Amazon : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276408645163?var=578927393174&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749372&toolid=20006&_ul=GB&customid=GB_293_276408645163.142094733279~1871028515000-g_CjwKCAjwi_exBhA8EiwA_kU1MnJS-Lj7Y_NBQnNJndAPCP_7bORQ7yIot1rvtuyWX5OhStaZw1M_2RoCvHUQAvD_BwE
As shown by the diagram on the listing, the earpiece, shown in the top right next to the illustration of the ear, is less than half the size of a small coin, with connected apparatus being worn as a wire over the body :
A device which could theoretically be hidden under the subject's clothing, which unlike OTB, again, is not physically searched.
Surely, other commercially available devices exist which make the subject of cheating even easier in said tournaments, I have not bothered to search for them but I'm sure it would be interesting to see how deep this could go in evasion of any cheat measures. As mentioned, possible devices could be anywhere in the playing area, hidden in mundane items such as glasses or any structures a normal house would have, that would comfortably facilitate possible cheating.
As mentioned, in other cases, you may not even need to hide the cheating device ; it could be concealed on an every day item, such as a pair of glasses, again, impossible to remotely verify as being legitimate glasses and not cheating devices.
There are significant, easily accessible, and impossible to detect, mechanisms of possible cheating in the CCT, involving devices worn on the person. According to public information, there is no plausible way in which current measures could detect cheating devices being worn on the person, and hypothetically speaking, these cheating methods would be foolproof without having to be physically searched by arbiters before and after your games in the tournaments.
Therefore, my question is - how are organisers ensuring that players are not wearing easily accessible cheating devices on their person, which would make cheating incredibly easy? Is there any way to ensure that players do not have cheating devices on their person, using remote methods?
Considering the last $2,000,000 prize pool in the 2023 CCT, the fact that hypothetical mechanisms of cheating are easily accessible, effective, and undetectable, in my opinion, constitutes a grave concern for the tournament's anti-cheat regulations, and draw real doubt over whether the legitimacy of the anti-cheat system can be trusted, as it does not meet the standard of OTB regulations, which would largely prevent all problems listed, including the most important one : searching of devices held on the person, including with technical tools to detect metal or frequency transmissions.
What could be done about these hypothetical mechanisms of cheating?
In my view, there are two possible solutions.
SOLUTION ONE : PHYSICAL SEARCHES OF PLAYING AREA AND PLAYER BY IN-PERSON ARBITERS
As happened with tournaments during COVID, proctors and arbiters could travel in-person to the player's house to search the playing area, search the player's person before going into the game and physically observe the players activity during the game, any sounds that may come from the environment or anything deemed suspicious. In other words, ensure the playing area fully conforms to OTB standards and regulations, and prevent any possible cheating through the computer itself.
This would largely solve the issues I have listed, but would cost a fair amount of money on the part of Chesscom, so it could possibly be implemented for the latter phases if costs were too high, however, given the significant prize money on offer, it is hard to think this couldn't be done in some form.
SOLUTION TWO : PLAYERS TO ENTER PRE-APPROVED VENUES, complete with searches and a clean reset computer.
Given the appeal of the CCT seems to mainly be that it is played in the online format, with premoves, mouse skills, and Chesscoms snazzy UI, it is hard to see why it is necessary that the players must be allowed to play at home or in their own venues which they control, and for reasons listed, could prepare any kinds of possible cheating mechanisms in closed environments.
I would propose that these events are held at external venues with standard OTB regulations and checks, where clean, reset computers could be used, along with full searches of the players, ensuring a completely clean competition with little prospects of cheating, whilst still preserving the online format.
This would be relatively cheap, and mainly consist of equipment and venue costs, which could then be successfully re-used for all future online tournaments.
For a tournament boasting 2 million dollars of prize money in its last iteration, it is hard to see why this is such an unreasonable request, given the fact that the existing version of the tournament has significantly concerning anti-cheat mechanisms, and the prize money on offer is too large to potentially risk any injustice or unfair play by competitions.
It is also possible, as mentioned, that this could happen after the initial 'play-in' phase, to prevent costs possibly raising too high for having to accomodate all players during the earliest phase of the tournament. After the individual sections of the tournament have entered their final stages, like today, with Nepo vs Lazavik, it is hard to see why with such a small amount of players and such high prize money on the line, that these matches could not be disputed in proper venues rather than at home.
The only possible consequences of this are taking away the players rights to play from their home, which as far as I'm concerned, has never been a necessity in chess, particularly when the games being spoken of are for such high amounts of prize money awarded to both losers and winners, making travel a minor expense compared to the money they will receive for participation.
Additionally, this could help suggest enhanced measures on players, who, for example, perform far better in the playin stages of the tournaments (less regulated, like now) compared to the next stages, played under full controls (although my preference would be that all sections of the tournament, due to the prize money on offer, are played with 1 of the 2 anti-cheating solutions listed).
One thing is certain - the prize money and 'points' on offer for performances in these different sections of the Tour, allowing players to qualify for the final, are far too important and far too consequential to be played under such lax anti-cheating regulations. It should be all parts of the Tour played under proper anti-cheating controls, not just the grand final.
This marks the end of this post. Please let me know your thoughts in the comments, and any reasonable disagreements you may have. I really desire for online chess to clean up, and that the players and the fans can have confidence in fair play online.
I know this is a controversial and heated subject on this subreddit, so please, if you disagree, disagree reasonably and do respect the amount of detail I went into to try and advance my view.
Additionally, if any chesscom staff are reading this post, and can answer all of the objections raised with up to date information on what are the current anti-cheat regulations, I would be greatly appreciative.
Thank you!
submitted by AJ_NoSleep to chess [link] [comments]


2024.05.10 06:02 SuperFencingSystem I am now selling adapter boards for retransmitting RS422-FPA scoring machine data over Bluetooth!

Hi fencers,
I am now selling a Bluetooth adapter board for RS422-FPA scoring machines. The adapter board (called 'SFS-Link-FPA') takes serial data from a RS422-FPA compatible scoring machine (SG21, SG12, FA-07, etc) and retransmits it over Bluetooth.
Ebay link for SFS-Link-FPA
These adapter boards are quite simple: an ESP32-C3, a common RS485<->3.3V TTL converter module, and a DE-9 / "DB9" plug, all on a small circuit board. The raw RS422-FPA data is sent over a single read¬ify BLE characteristic.
There are of course existing Bluetooth RS422 adapters on the market. However, they are not easy to use with a RS422-FPA machine due to the following problems:
SFS-Link-FPA fixes these issues!
 
But what is the purpose of this thing?!
 
The intended purpose of this board is for connecting FPA machines to my fencing video replay iOS/iPadOS app, Super Fencing System! With a SFS-Link-FPA, you can wirelessly connect SFS to a RS422-FPA scoring machine for powerful but inexpensive video replay / video refereeing. The SFS-Link-FPA board works similar to my existing SFS-Link adapters which retransmit Favero 6P4C/RJ11 serial over Bluetooth; simply plug the adapter into a machine, power the adapter with a USB-C cable, and select the adapter in the app. With these new boards, SFS is now compatible with almost every protocol: VSM UDP (essentially RS422-FPA over UDP), Favero RJ11 serial, Favero FA-15 native bluetooth, CYRANO/EFP, and DB9 RS422-FPA. Hopefully I can add EnPointe DisplayBox's Bluetooth to this list soon!
 
Please let me know if you have any questions! And a huge thank-you to PhilDiv Fencing for loaning me a RS422-FPA machine to prototype these boards on.
 
Thanks,
SFS Developer
superfencingsystem@tuta.com
submitted by SuperFencingSystem to Fencing [link] [comments]


2024.05.09 23:00 dumdodo An Answer: I just got my Tech? - What do I do now?

What should I buy first? We see the, "I just passed my Tech, what radio should I buy?" question posted over and over again here.
There really isn't a simple answer, because it really depends on what you plan to do. And what you want to do will probably be different a year from now. The answers you’ll get from this question online will probably not serve you, especially if someone recommends a specific rig, based on the sentence or two that you post. You’re taking advice from internet strangers who don’t know you, and you probably don’t know enough about ham radio yet to know how to evaluate their suggestions.
One thing that is highly recommended is not to go out and spend money on new equipment right away. There are numerous barely-used rigs on the marketplace because of this. (Buying a Baofeng or other $25 radio is fine).
Your temptation will be to buy something more than a Baofeng that will give you more power, more features and better access to the VHF/UHF bands that you are now licensed to use. Best to wait.
Connect with experienced hams: If you can, join a club or find some experienced hams. Try to see their shacks, their equipment, and listen to their contacts with other hams. You’re probably younger than they are, but you’ll find that the experienced hams have the time and can share lots of information. They also may give you free equipment from their junk boxes or used rigs that they’ve maintained perfectly but no longer need. They might even fix a rig for you.
Go to field days, POTA operations and even those club meetings, which may or not be boring.
When you have an idea of what you want to do, then consider buying equipment.
Buying new: Buying new is great, if you have the money. But if your budget is limited, you may find a year from now that you have one transceiver that won’t allow you to work the bands or with the transmission modes that you want, and can't afford to buy anything else. Used equipment depreciates as soon as you turn it on.
Consider buying for the future: You have limited privileges now, but if you spend any time as a ham, you will probably get your General. At that point, you’ll have lots of privileges on the HF bands. You may decide that you want to stick to VHF/UHF. Most hams do want to go to HF as well, and some move to HF and never go back to VHF/UHF. Some stick to a single mode of transmission, some operate everything, most use a computer now, but some don’t have one they can easily connect or are sick of seeing a screen all day at work and don’t want to see one in their leisure hours. The only way that you’ll learn this is by learning ham radio, most likely with the help of other hams.
QRP and Portable Radios: These can be great, and radios like the XEIGU can have attractive prices. There seems to be no end of interest in these, possibly because of the lower prices. Once again, be wary. Check out the repair history on any of rigs that you buy new, especially if they are a good bit less expensive than are the competitors. QRP can work and people do work the world with QRP, but it can really be frustrating, especially if you don’t have a directional beam. With 5 or 20 watts on HF, you will be competing with 1500-watt stations with antenna systems that rival commercial radio stations. They won’t hear you as well, or at all, especially in a pile up. QRP operators can get frustrated and quit. Backpack portable can be fun, but until you’ve tried it with some other hams (and used their equipment), it’s not a good idea to buy one of these right away.
Buying used: For most, buying used is the best place to start. The best place to buy used is through a local club. A ham in the local club is highly unlikely to cheat you, and will probably sell you a used rig that is in good shape. They might even help you fix it if it breaks down, or fix it for you.
Most hams are persnickety and won’t sell you a damaged rig. Still, buyer beware. And used gear from a non-ham is risky. It’s like buying an airplane from someone who knows nothing about airplanes ("I turned on the ignition and it started, so it'll fly fine ...")
Used Equipment Sources:
Local Club / Local Hams: the best place to go, as mentioned.
***
QRZ.com (Swapmeet)
Eham.net (Classified section)
QTH.com
These sites only allow licensed hams to sell gear. Once again, hams aren’t very likely to lie or sell you a piece of junk – they usually tell you what is wrong with it. But like any piece of used gear, caveat emptor.
***
Online scams: The Ham Site listed above, as well as any other online site, have been subject to scammers. Some of these sites require photos of the call sign and the person’s name next to the equipment to be sold, but scammers have posed as hams and scammed buyers. These sites have posted guidelines to help you avoid this, and follow them to the letter, including having a phone conversation with the seller before you buy, and one that gets into the history of the piece, how it was used and how the seller operates. If he or she can’t speak ham and has an odd area code, don’t buy. Check out the phone number with Google search – you can often confirm that you are actually buying from Elbert Glomp, K4HAHA, in Turnip Creek, Tennessee, with a Google search of the person. All licensees’ addresses are public, so if they can’t tell you about the area they’re listed in, they aren’t Elbert Glomp, K4HAHA.
Ebay: Be more careful here. Make sure you can return it. Does the seller know anything about ham radio? Check their listings to see if they’ve sold other ham gear. Many times you’ll find that they have been able to turn it on, which tells you nothing. There is some good gear on here, but most is overpriced. And the operating condition can be questionable.
Japanese gear on Ebay: There are now a handful of sellers selling used gear at low prices that are shipped form Japan. There’s nothing wrong with a radio that is made in Japan, but one that ships from Japan is almost certain to be designed for Japanese ham laws. That means that it’ll be locked to smaller bands than we have. They have lower power limits and the rig will likely not transmit at the basic 100 watts on HF. These can be hard to unlock to make them so they can transmit on the full US bands. In addition, you may not be able to buy boards or parts from the Yaesu, Kenwood or Icom service centers in the US, as the boards are not available to them. Many hams have been disappointed with these. Unless you are ready to take on a significant modification project right away, stay away from these. If you are, do some research to make sure that the rig can be modified, and determine what the power outputs are, because these probably can’t be changed.
Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist: You can sometimes find some real deals on these sites. People get equipment from an estate and don’t know the value of what they have. I heard recently of someone getting an ICOM 706 for $100 and someone getting a Yaesu 757 for $75. Bring an experienced ham with you to check out the equipment, because these people will have no idea how to determine if the unit is functional. They say it works because they plugged it in and it lit up and made noise. Most of the time, however, the equipment on these two sites is overpriced and could still be non-functional. But if you have the time, keep an eye on these two sites for a bargain.
Older Used Gear
There are a number of categories here:
Vintage Collectibles, like Hallicrafter and Collins and Heathkit rigs that collectors like to buy and restore. Not a good place for most new hams to start.
HF Transceivers with tube finals: These actually will still work and the tubes in the final amplifiers usually have long lives (tubes could be hard to replace if they do burn out, however). These will require tuning as you change frequencies, which is a nuisance. Also, old rigs tend to have worn components. Electrolytic capacitors tend to wear out after about 40 years, although some will last much longer and some don’t last that long. Other components can go, too. These are lower-piced, but also a more difficult place to start.
Older solid state HF Transceivers: Starting in about the late 1970’s or early 1980’s, transceivers became all solid state, and required no tuning to transmit. These old radios actually will sound just as good on the air as a brand new rig and receiver performance can be almost as good. Features were gradually added that improved receiver performance over the years. The risk here, once again, is that something no longer works or burns out soon after you get it. Electrolytic capacitors are also a risk here, of course. Before you buy one of these, check out the reviews on Eham.net, which has reviews of virtually every piece of ham equipment posted by other hams, to see if the item you’re looking at was a dog. These rigs might not give you the newest transmission modes, such as digital, but they are not the worst place to start if you can get a unit that someone has cared for. Try to get one in which they have changed out the electrolytic capacitors. These are certainly small enough and light enough to use as POTA, unless you’re backpacking. Bear in mind that you can usually resell these for what you paid for them if they are functional, so it is easy to trade up.
Older VHF/UHF transceivers: Same pluses and minuses as above, but don’t get something with tubes in it. These will have few or no memory functions and rarely if ever can be programmed with something like Chirp.
1995 radios or later: These are now 30 years old, but at about this time the shack-in-a-box rigs came out. These can be a great place to start, because you could get one with HF plus 6 meters, 2 meters and perhaps 70 cm. You might also get one with a remote head that can be used in your shack or mobile. They gradually added functions and programming abilities from this point until now, so the newer equipment, the more up-to-date will be its features.
Antennas
Remember that antennas are critical, and leave some money in your budget for them. These can be bought or home brewed from wire, plumbing equipment or junkyard pipes. The RF doesn’t know if it is passing through a clothesline rod or an expensive beam antenna, but it won’t go anywhere if the antenna isn’t resonant, with a good ground plane/counterpoise. Transmission line is critical and can’t be fudged, however. These take a lot of time to get right, regardless of whether they are homemade or brand new from a prominent manufacturer. Remember that the little things like transmission wire, lightning arrestors, meters, ground planes and insulators do add up, one trip to the store or online order at a time. And bear in mind that many hams are working from wire dipoles and similar, simple antennas that work well when installed properly and that are made to be resonant.
submitted by dumdodo to amateurradio [link] [comments]


2024.05.09 17:07 missmuchcooleronline 2020 Venue Clutch Kit in US

Hi, all.
I have a 2020 Venue SE with 89,XXX miles. After four years of driving delivery, my Venue will no longer shift into gears. The clutch pedal is still as firm as it was off the line, and I can limp it around town by starting in first and shifting into another gear from neutral as RPMs drop.
I drove it to a local shop who told me there is a clutch pedal adjustment that he was not familiar with. His advice was bring it to the dealership since they may have the adjustment increments on hand.
The dealership said nothing about the adjustment and quoted about $3,000 USD for a flywheel, throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate.
An aftermarket clutch kit does not seem to be available through my local shop, and my own research is shows that my choices are limited.
eBay offers a “Europe type clutch kit” that claims to fit the Creta, Venue, Verna and Elantra. The descriptions claim they are replacement kids made in India (where this car is quite popular)
Is it worth trying this kit? I am afraid it is designed to match the smaller engine options (US only got the 1.6 Gasoline engine, not the 1.0). The other compatible vehicles offer bigger motors in India, such a the Elantra which offers a 2.0L gasoline engine.
Link to “Europe type kit”: https://www.ebay.com/itm/375269679939?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qpwoip9sthm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I also came across the part numbers from a “Hyundai dot OEMPARTS online” website, which are:
Clutch friction plate: 41100-26090 Clutch flywheel: 23200-2M000 Pressure plate: 41300-26090 Throwout bearing: unknown
The website may be legitimate but I do not trust it based on the URL and layout.
Searching the above part numbers on eBay shows nothing helpful.
The car will be parked while I find a job that pays enough to cover service.
My pipe dreams of a Honda K-swap are barely alive, but I would need a functioning transmission! If parts are this scarce, I should not be making any modifications.
Any input is appreciated and I will update my findings as I learn.
Thank you!
submitted by missmuchcooleronline to Hyundai [link] [comments]


2024.05.09 03:03 ikerbals Cost: 12 Years of Daily Driving Ownership

I bought my 996 C2 coupe in March of 2012 with 125,000 miles and have daily driven it ever since. I have put 96,000 miles on the car in 12 years of ownership.
I have included the breakdown of the total spent, the total spent minus aesthetic mods, and then calculated per year and per mile.
Insurance has averaged around $110 per month, not included in the costs though.
Sorry they are out of order date-wise.
Purchase Price $15,900.00 includes dealer fees Casey's Auto 3/12
Total Spent Minus Purchase $30660.00
Per Year $2555.00
Per Mile $0.32
Just Service $19940.00
Per Year $1661.67
Per Mile $0.21
Oil Separator $2900.00 1,000 miles after purchase Porsche Downtown Los Angeles 7/12
Oil Change + O2 Sensor $500.00 emissions california Euro Spec 4/16
Tire $300.00 flat tire rear right Walmart 10/20
Oil Change + Oil Valve Spring Replaced $800.00 low oil pressure Eurotech 7/20
Water Pump $1170.00 Coolant leak Eurotech 5/24
Replace Windshield Cowling and Mudflap $360.00 bought parts at junk yard for $200 Eurotech 2/24
Driver's Window Actuator $700.00 would not go up Eurotech 5/19
AC Leak $180.00 uv dye to see leak Eurotech 5/19
Passenger Window Regulator $700.00 would not go up Eurotech 8/19
Purge Control Valve $390.00 evap engine light code Eurotech 7/19
Transmission Fluid + Filter $465.00 engine light transmission Eurotech 3/20
Oxygen Sensor $435.00 right bank sensor bad Eurotech 3/20
Oil Change $75.00 charged oil only Eurotech 2/20
Oil Change $75.00 charged oil only Eurotech 1/21
Valve Cover Gaskets $2700.00 leaking valve covers, fixed and replaced started and spark plugs Eurotech 3/21
Oil Change $100.00 oil and labor Eurotech 4/22
Oil Change $100.00 oil and labor Eurotech 10/21
Oil Change + Oil Valve Spring Replaced $400.00 low oil pressure light recommend heavier oil next change Eurotech 6/22
AC Evap Core Replace $3200.00 smelly a/c smoke from vents Eurotech 4/21
Oil Change $150.00 oil and labor Eurotech 11/22
Oil Change $100.00 oil and labor Eurotech 3/23
Suspension Rebuild Kit $2100.00 b8's and lowering springs with all arms and rods Ebay 12/23
Suspension Rebuild $1600.00 labor Eurotech 1/24
Oil Change $90.00 oil only Eurotech 6/23
Serpentine Belt $120.00 labor and part Eurotech 6/23
Ducktail $2000.00 painted Ebay 5/23
Install Ducktail $500.00 labor Eurotech 6/23
Car Horn $90.00 labor Eurotech 621
Brake Service $1350.00 all brakes rotors and pads Eurotech 6/21
Expansion Tank $250.00 cracked and replaced Eurotech 6/21
Left Radiator Replacement $0.00 insurance from animal hit Henry's Import 5/18
Battery $250.00 agm 48 duracell Batteries and Bulbs 4/21
Alignment $130.00 new suspension Firestone 1/24
Alignment $130.00 new steering wheel Firestone 2/20
Oil Change $170.00 Firestone 4/22
Fuchs Wheels $3900.00 17" fuchs Ebay 3/22
Alignment $130.00 new wheels Firestone 4/22
Oil Change $110.00 Pep Boys 2/19
2 Tires $320.00 falkens Pep Boys 2/19
1 tire $320.00 pilot sport Pep Boys 2/24
4 tires $1300.00 pilot sport Pep Boys 5/23
submitted by ikerbals to 996 [link] [comments]


2024.05.08 08:03 Dan_Parisi Looking for a 1996 Firebird Formula Rear Wheel Speed Sensor for ABS. GM Part# 1045 6264 Impossible to find!

Looking for a 1996 Firebird Formula Rear Wheel Speed Sensor for ABS. GM Part# 1045 6264 Impossible to find!
Hello All
I have a 1996 Pontiac Firebird Formula. 5.7 L Automatic Transmission with ABS & Traction Control.
I need a Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. ABS & Traction Control Lights on dash.
The discontinued GM part # 1045 6264.
As I understand it, this part# was only on 95/96 Firebirds & Camaros. No luck so far finding one anywhere.
Tried all the regular channels, EBAY, Rock Auto, O'Reilly, Advance Auto, Local Junk Yards, etc.
There were a few jerks on FB Marketplace that try to scam a Pay Pal payment but don't actually have any parts.
Any ideas or suggestions? Can the existing sensor possibly be rebuilt?
I appreciate any help or suggestions. :) Thank You!
https://preview.redd.it/gelqtio485zc1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=654f73651962c29f7e91dcfbb150b4073eff3746
https://preview.redd.it/lj7iw5r485zc1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f7fb15a0dd2fa8fa1f8ce6cc84f9d019137f848
https://preview.redd.it/rmaro6r485zc1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e57764d32091dabf4db7f3d24f309ee7c04e720
https://preview.redd.it/fzygb5r485zc1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c3f83c449bf84bc2bf28d9b33d0d7a3f78e244d
submitted by Dan_Parisi to transam [link] [comments]


2024.05.08 05:02 Dan_Parisi 1996 Pontiac Firebird Formula. Need Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. Impossible To Find.

1996 Pontiac Firebird Formula. Need Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. Impossible To Find.
Hello All
I have a 1996 Pontiac Firebird Formula. 5.7 L Automatic Transmission with ABS & Traction Control.
I need a Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. ABS & Traction Control Lights on dash.
The discontinued GM part # 1045 6264.
As I understand it, this part# was only on 95/96 Firebirds & Camaros. No luck so far finding one anywhere.
Tried all the regular channels, EBAY, Rock Auto, O'Reilly, Advance Auto, Local Junk Yards, etc.
There were a few jerks on FB Marketplace that try to scam a Pay Pal payment but don't actually have any parts.
Any ideas or suggestions? Can the existing sensor possibly be rebuilt?
I appreciate any help or suggestions. :) Thank You!
https://preview.redd.it/i25xuqpkb4zc1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4de7afbde5030980ec9e91a5df552c8b0aa100ba
https://preview.redd.it/yi8exqpkb4zc1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5e8fba196603c44379f9d5fecab911237e8cade
https://preview.redd.it/w6xs6tpkb4zc1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e638edcaa8488901eeb17fdb812b31ac0f0b271
submitted by Dan_Parisi to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2024.05.07 22:42 thepinto_bean Manual Swap

Manual Swap
Okay so i’ve been digging through the internet for eons to find a manual spark transmission, and have never been able to find one. for some reason i search up 2020 spark manual and it pops up on ebay like it’s been there since my mom was in highschool.
ANYWAYS wondering what all i need to make this happen. it’s a 500$ transmission case with 70k miles on it. do i need to modify anything mounts? or buy any extra parts axel wise? i’m not 100% experienced in this, and im not planning on doing this overnight. it’ll be a project to work on for sure, but what do i need to make it work?
please anyone with knowledge and experience in this i’m all ears
submitted by thepinto_bean to chevyspark [link] [comments]


2024.05.06 03:27 ImHereForLifeAdvice '00 C5 - Worth considering or run for the hills?

Howdy y'all, in the process of car shopping and considering a C5, but I'm not terribly familiar with the platform. It's out of state, so I can't inspect in person, but it's from a dealership and they sent me their technician's notes on it since it's listed as, " Sold 100% As Is, Did Not Pass Our Shop Inspection, Mechanic Special." I'm mechanically inclined and enjoy working on cars, but I've never pulled an engine or dropped a transmission, and I don't want to be getting in over my head. The technician notes as I was provided read as such:


What I'm wondering is, how bad is this problem list? The asking price is $11.5 for <100k mi which is a lot better than everywhere else I'm finding, but after just parts costs above (my weekend labor is free lmao) that goes to $12.6-13.1k. Interior and exterior look to be in great shape, it's the color and trans I was hoping for (black on black leather, manual, hardtop) and most of this looks like fairly simple fixes, but the main things that concern me are the rear main seal and if that oil pressure isn't from the sending unit.

So what say y'all - worth it, or run for the hills?
submitted by ImHereForLifeAdvice to Corvette [link] [comments]


2024.05.04 03:34 AnonAmitty Farizon supervan on ccarprice.com

Farizon supervan on ccarprice.com submitted by AnonAmitty to EV_erythingNerd [link] [comments]


http://rodzice.org/