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Get ready to level up your ammunition game with our hand-picked selection of the best 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches on the market! Explore top-rated pouches designed to securely store and transport your 40 S&W mags. From versatile options for everyday carry to rugged ones for extreme outdoor adventures, we've got you covered in this comprehensive roundup.

The Top 5 Best 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches

1. Adjustable Magazine Pouch for 1911 Firearms - Enhanced Durability - Safariland's adjustable magazine pouch offers high-quality, secure magazine storage and seamless integration with various tactical belts, providing you with optimal control and adjustability.
2. Versatile Safariland 71 Single Magazine Pouch for 1911 Magazines - Versatile and compact, the Safariland 71 Single Magazine Pouch accommodates 9mm, .40 caliber, and .45 ACP mags, flashlights, knives, and multi-tools, fitting virtually any 1.5" to 2.25" belt.
3. Customizable Spandex Front Secure Magazine Pouch with Concealed Carry Option - Securely hold and organize your handgun or pistol magazines with the Stealth Double Magazine Pouch, perfect for tactical use and concealed carry.
4. Stick Magazine Pouch for M4 Triple Stacker - Multicam - The Shellback Tactical Triple Stacker Open Top M4 Mag Pouch offers ultimate versatility, holding six M4 magazines and featuring adjustable bungee retention cords, fully Molle compatible design, and six button snap webbing straps for seamless attachment.
5. MOLLE Pistol Magazine Pouch for Multi-Caliber Magazines (SKU - 766340) - The Tasmanian Tiger Single MCL LP Molle Pistol Magazine Pouch is an unobtrusive, multi-caliber option that accommodates all standard double-row magazines, boasting a narrow design that hardly shows.

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Reviews

🔗Adjustable Magazine Pouch for 1911 Firearms - Enhanced Durability

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In my daily life as a tactical enthusiast, I've found the Safariland Adjustable Magazine Pouch to be a reliable and convenient addition to my gear. With its ability to adapt to various belt systems and offer precise resistance for magazine removal, this pouch is a versatile and dependable companion.
One aspect that stood out was the closed low-cut front, which effectively secures the magazine and prevents it from accidentally falling out of the pouch. However, I did notice that the built-up channel inside the pouch can be a bit tight when drawing the magazine out, which may require some adjustment on my part.
Overall, this magazine pouch has proven to be a valuable accessory for my firearm, providing me with the ease and security I need while on the go.

🔗Versatile Safariland 71 Single Magazine Pouch for 1911 Magazines

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In my experience, the Safariland magazine pouch, also known as the 71-Model, proves itself to be a reliable and versatile gear holder. This pouch is designed to accommodate most standard 9mm, . 40 caliber, single stack, and double stack. 45 ACP mags, making it an ideal candidate for various weapons. Additionally, it can fit flashlights, knives, and even multi-tools. The pouch's design, with its flexible accordion construction, allows for a snug fit even with a small footprint and minimal size.
One of the key features that stood out to me was the fit it offers. The adjustable-tensioned design holds your gear securely and prevents it from falling out, even during vigorous activities. I can personally attest to this, as I have successfully used the pouch during my outdoor endeavors, including hiking, camping, and ATV riding. The fit proved to be both functional and comfortable, which is crucial for all-day wear.
However, the pouch's ability to fit a wide range of weapons comes at a price. It may not always fit smaller items like pocket knives or smaller flashlights. In my experience, the pouch was best suited for larger weapons like a Sig P220R or a HK45, but not the smaller firearms or accessories I initially tested it with.
Overall, the Safariland 71-Model magazine pouch offers a reliable and convenient solution for those looking to hold their various gear items securely. Its adjustable-tensioned design and versatile fit earn it praise from many satisfied users, and though some issues may arise with smaller items, its pros outweigh its cons.

🔗Customizable Spandex Front Secure Magazine Pouch with Concealed Carry Option

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The Stealth Double Magazine Pouch is a game-changer for anyone looking to organize their gun safe. It securely holds two clips with a strong hook and loop backing, making it an excellent option for those who want to keep their handgun and magazines together. The spandex front stretches to fit nearly any size clip, ensuring a snug fit for all types of magazines.
One of the best features of this pouch is its versatility. It easily attaches to any tactical vest or carry bag, making it perfect for concealed carry or storing extra mags while on the go. Measuring 4 inches long and 5 inches wide, each pocket is 2 1/4 inches wide, offering plenty of space for even the largest clips.
Although it works great for many users, there are a couple of drawbacks to consider. Some customers have found that the pouch is too shallow for larger, fully loaded magazines, causing them to droop and potentially slip out. Additionally, while the velcro backing is strong and secure, it may not be as effective on some surfaces as advertised.
Overall, the Stealth Double Magazine Pouch is an excellent product for anyone looking to keep their gun safe organized and well-stocked. With its durable construction, versatile design, and affordable price, it's an essential item for any gun enthusiast.

🔗Stick Magazine Pouch for M4 Triple Stacker - Multicam

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I recently had the chance to try out the Shellback Tactical Triple Stacker Open Top M4 Mag Pouch in Multicam, and I must say, it's a game-changer for any combat enthusiast. This pouch is built to last, with a rugged and durable construction that can withstand even the toughest conditions.
One of the most impressive features of this pouch is its capacity to hold six 30-round M4 magazines in a triple row, double-stacked pattern. This means you can easily store a complete combat load of ammo, giving you the extra firepower you need when you need it most.
The open top design of the pouch is also a major plus. In a high-stress firefight situation, the last thing you want is to struggle to get to your ammo. With the Shellback Tactical pouch, you can quickly and easily access your mags, thanks to the six open top slots.
Each slot also features adjustable bungee retention cords with pull tabs, ensuring your magazines stay securely in place. This attention to detail is what sets this pouch apart from similar products on the market.
Fully Molle compatible, this pouch also comes with six button snap webbing straps, making it easy to attach to any gear with PALS webbing. Whether you're heading into the field for a training exercise or prepping for a real-life combat situation, this pouch has you covered.
While there are no major drawbacks to this pouch, one thing to note is its weight. At 0.6 lb, it might be a bit hefty for some users. However, given its durability and capacity, I believe it's a small price to pay for the added security and convenience it provides.
Overall, I highly recommend the Shellback Tactical Triple Stacker Open Top M4 Mag Pouch for anyone looking to upgrade their ammo storage. It's a solid investment that will last you through thick and thin.

🔗MOLLE Pistol Magazine Pouch for Multi-Caliber Magazines (SKU - 766340)

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I recently had the chance to test out the Tasmanian Tiger Single MCL Molle Pistol Magazine Pouch and it didn't disappoint. The narrow design of this pouch allows for an incredibly discrete appearance, making it perfect for those who value subtlety. Its MOLLE attachment style also offers versatility and ease of use.
I was pleased with the slim profile of this pouch, as it held my magazine securely without sticking out like a sore thumb. However, I noticed that the single magazine capacity might not be suitable for those who prefer to carry multiple magazines. Despite this drawback, the overall build quality of the pouch was quite impressive, giving a sense of durability that I appreciated.
Overall, my experience with the Tasmanian Tiger Single MCL Molle Pistol Magazine Pouch was mostly positive, but I do encourage users to consider their specific needs before deciding to purchase it, as the lack of multiple magazine capacity might be a deal-breaker for some.

Buyer's Guide

Welcome to our comprehensive buyer's guide for 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches. This guide aims to provide you with essential features, considerations, and helpful tips when choosing the right magazine pouch for your needs. Remember, safety should always be a priority while handling firearms.
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Important Features to Consider

1. Material: High-quality pouches are typically made from durable materials such as nylon or cordura. They should be resistant to wear and tear, especially during tactical operations.
2. Compatibility: Make sure the pouch is compatible with your specific 40 Caliber magazines. Most pouches can hold one or two magazines, but some might be designed for three-round capacity magazines.
3. Design and Construction: Look for a design that supports quick and easy access to the magazine. Sturdy stitching and reinforced seams add durability and ensure that the pouch holds up over time.
4. Size and Weight: The pouch should be lightweight and compact enough to fit into your gear without adding bulk or weight.
5. Attachment System: Consider the attachment system, be it Velcro, snap buttons, or belt loops, depending on your preferred method of mounting the pouch.

Factors to Consider Before Purchasing

1. Your Budget: Magazine pouches come in various price ranges, from affordable options to high-end, premium products. Determine your budget first to narrow down your choices.
2. Personal Preferences: Some users prefer pouches with a minimalistic design, while others prefer bright or camouflaged colors for better visibility in different scenarios.
3. Environment and Use Case: Consider the conditions in which you will be using the pouches. If you plan to use them in harsh environments, choose a pouch with a water-resistant or weather-resistant coating.

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General Advice and Tips

1. Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines and safety precautions when using the magazine pouches.
2. Regularly inspect your pouches for any signs of damage, such as frayed stitching or torn fabric, and replace them promptly if needed.
3. Never overload the pouch, as it may compromise the secure retention of the magazines and put you at risk.
4. Practice proper magazine reloading techniques to avoid accidents or misfires.

FAQ

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What are 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches?

40 Caliber Magazine Pouches are specially designed holsters that are used to carry 40 caliber magazines for rifles, pistols, and other firearms. These pouches are made of durable materials to ensure they can withstand the weight of a full magazine without breaking or failing.

Why should I use a 40 Caliber Magazine Pouch?

Using a 40 Caliber Magazine Pouch is a smart choice for various reasons. It provides easy access to ammunition during shooting, helps keep your firearm organized, and allows you to carry extra magazines without having to rely on pockets or other storage options. Additionally, it can be a lifesaver in emergency situations where quick access to ammunition is critical.
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What materials are 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches made of?

Most 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches are made of high-quality materials such as canvas, thick leather, or ballistic nylon. These materials are durable and resistant to wear and tear, ensuring that the pouches last for years of use. Some pouches also feature reinforced stitching and heavy-duty zippers for optimum durability.

How many magazines can one 40 Caliber Magazine Pouch carry?

The number of magazines a 40 Caliber Magazine Pouch can carry depends on the size and design of the pouch. Generally, these pouches are designed to carry one magazine per pouch. However, some larger pouches with expandable or multi-compartment designs can accommodate multiple magazines.

Can I carry 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches on my person, or do they need to be carried in a bag or backpack?

While some 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches can be attached to a belt or other clothing item using a belt loop or snap, most of them are designed for use in a bag or backpack. These pouches are lightweight and compact, making them easy to store and carry along with your other gear. Carrying pouches on your person can be a good option for hunters or other outdoor enthusiasts who need quick access to their ammunition, but for most users, carrying them in a bag or backpack is sufficient.

Are there any differences between 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches made for rifles versus those made for pistols or revolvers?

Yes, there are differences between 40 Caliber Magazine Pouches designed for rifles versus those made for pistols or revolvers. While the overall design and construction may be similar, there are key differences that make each type of pouch better suited for a specific firearm. For instance, rifle pouches are typically larger and more rugged to accommodate the larger magazine capacity of rifles. Pistol or revolver pouches, on the other hand, are typically smaller and more compact to suit the smaller size of pistol and revolver magazines.

How do I choose the right 40 Caliber Magazine Pouch?

When choosing the right 40 Caliber Magazine Pouch, consider the type of firearm you'll be using it with, the number of magazines you need to carry, and the materials and construction you prefer. Be sure to look for pouches that are compatible with your specific firearm and magazines, and that are made of high-quality materials to ensure durability and functionality.
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Are you stuck in the thought of “Where is the molding companies near me?” that can help to streamline my production process? Choosing the right one is essential for businesses looking to enhance manufacturing efficiency.
With years of experience in the plastic injection industry, I’ve analyzed countless manufacturers to guide you toward the most reliable partners.
After thorough evaluation of various companies, it’s clear that Beska stands out as the premier choice. Their commitment to quality and precision in plastic injection molding is unmatched.
In this review, we’ll dive deep into the capabilities and specialties of the top 9 plastic injection molding companies. You’ll learn how each company aligns with the needs of your business operations.
Discover the leaders today!

1. The Plastek Group – Best for High-End Brands

Country & City: USA, Pennsylvania
Established Date: 1956
The Plastek Group has evolved significantly from its origins as a tool-making company. Today, the company is recognized for its sophisticated approach to plastic packaging, particularly in high-end markets such as personal care and beauty. They are committed to innovation and quality, maintaining a robust global presence while serving top-tier clients with complex demands. How amazing the 1st manufacturer, right?
Key Services: Injection Stretch Blow Molding and Assembly Decorating
Takeaway Note:
The Plastek Group is ideally suited for businesses seeking upscale, innovative packaging solutions. However, their specialized focus might not align with the needs of companies looking for more basic or economical packaging options.

2. Seaway Plastics Engineering – Best for Innovation

Country & City: USA, Florida
Established Date: 1991
Seaway Plastics Engineering is celebrated for its leadership in prototype injection molding. With a strong emphasis on versatility and technical prowess, the company supports a wide array of industries, including medical and consumer products. Wait, that’s not all. Their approach is tailored to foster rapid development from concept to production.
Key Services: Prototype Injection Molding and Ultrasonic Welding
Takeaway Note:
Seaway Plastics Engineering are ideal for companies prioritizing innovation and rapid prototyping. However, they may not be the best fit for firms requiring large-scale, cost-effective production runs.

3. Beska – Best for Overall

Country & City: 30 N Gould St Ste N, Sheridan, WY 82801
Established Date: n/a
Beska has built a strong reputation in sectors like automotive and aerospace, thanks to its extensive CNC machining and fabrication capabilities. Their dedication to quality and client success is evident in every project they undertake, delivering top-tier results. Their commitment to excellence is further validated by their ISO 9001:2015 and IATF 16949:2016 certifications, ensuring adherence to the highest international standards.
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Key Services: CNC Milling and Injection Molding
Takeaway Note:
Beska is the go-to provider for any industry requiring precision and reliability. I am amazed how this company is offering their comprehensive service range and commitment to excellence to ensure they meet diverse client needs without compromise.

4. Britech Industries – Best for Custom Extrusions

Country & City: USA, Florida
Established Date: 1984
Britech Industries has been at the forefront of rubber and plastic extrusion technology for decades. Their adaptability and growth in product offerings have been driven by a commitment to meeting customer-specific needs. On top of that, the company’s expansion into custom molded rubber parts and dies has solidified its position as a leader in both the rubber and plastic manufacturing sectors.
Key Services: Rubber Extrusions and Injection Molding
Takeaway Note:
Britech Industries excels in providing custom extrusion solutions tailored to client specifications. However, for those seeking projects that require lower volumes or quick turnarounds, the company might not be the best choice.

5. Marjowynn – Best for Locally-Made Products

Country & City: Philippines
Established Date: 1994
Marjowynn thrives on delivering high-quality, locally-made plastic products. They focus on safety and sustainability. They cater to a wide range of sectors, including educational and food service industries. The company strong presence in national retail chains highlights their dedication to accessibility and consumer trust.
Key Services: Plastic Injection Molding and Manufacturing Food Containers
Takeaway Note:
Marjowynn specializes in high-quality, locally-made plastic products, emphasizing safety and sustainability. However, they may not be suited for businesses needing advanced technical specifications. So what I am trying to point? Potential clients should assess whether this company focus on local and safe consumer products aligns with their technical requirements.

6. Ironwood Plastics – Best for Engineered Materials

Country & City: USA, Michigan
Established Date: 1979
Ironwood Plastics has been recognized for pushing the boundaries of plastic technology. As a matter of fact, they are known for their work with engineered materials and insert molding. The company offers solutions that cater to high-specification industry requirements. Their commitment to quality and innovation is evident in their state-of-the-art facilities and experienced management team.
Key Services: Insert Molding and Manufacturing with Engineered Materials
Takeaway Note:
Ironwood Plastics is recognized for its expertise in engineered materials and high-specification molding solutions. However, their services may not align well with the needs of those seeking basic or cost-effective alternatives.

7. Hi-Tech Mold and Engineering – Best for Full-Service Supply

Country & City: USA, Michigan
Established Date: N/A
Hi-Tech Mold & Engineering epitomizes the essence of a world-class full-service supplier in the plastics industry. Their focus on high-quality results and high-performing teams underpins their capability to meet diverse customer expectations effectively. The vision of the company to continuously improve operations ensures they maintain competitive across various metrics.
Key Services: Full Service Tooling and Plastic Injection Molding
Takeaway Note:
Hi-Tech Mold & Engineering is best suited for businesses looking for a comprehensive partner in the plastic and tooling industry. However, their sophisticated services may not align with the needs of smaller, less complex projects. I suggest looking for another manufacturer who can offer basic services.

8. Alcami – Best for Integrated Manufacturing Services

Country & City: Thailand
Established Date: 2001
Alcami has grown to become a reliable subcontractor known for its integrated manufacturing services across diverse industries. Their capacity to blend different manufacturing techniques, backed by a skilled engineering team, ensures seamless production from start to finish. Their strategic versatility is key to their global service reach.
Key Services: Injection Molding and CNC Machining and Sealing
Takeaway Note:
Alcami is the ideal choice for companies needing diverse manufacturing capabilities. However, their extensive approach may be overly comprehensive for businesses only seeking simple production services. Just a friendly tip, smaller firms should evaluate whether the broad scope of company matches their specific needs.

9. Fowmould – Best for Cost-Effective Mold Solutions

Country & City: China, Zhejiang
Established Date: 1978
Fowmould specializes in designing and manufacturing high-quality molds with a focus on cost-effectiveness and global reach. But wait, there’s more. Their extensive experience in the industry has fostered a robust network that supports clients worldwide, emphasizing scalability and comprehensive support.
Key Services: Mold Design and Plastic Injection Molding
Takeaway Note:
Fowmould is perfect for businesses prioritizing cost efficiency in mold production. However, their focus on large-scale operations might not cater well to those needing small-scale or highly specialized production runs.

4 Tips to Consider When Choosing the Best Plastic Injection Molding Company

The market size of plastic injection molding companies is continuously evolving, according to Precedence Research it was expected to reach USD 266.1 billion by 2030. With this growth, choosing the best company is crucial. To get you guided in choosing your business partner, here are 3 specific tips to consider:

• Geographical Proximity: Consider the geographic location relative to your operations. A manufacturer located closer to your facilities can reduce shipping times and costs, as well as facilitate easier site visits. I think it is an advantage to always keep in mind the thought of “Where is the plastic injection companies near me”.
• Geometry Customization Abilities: Determine if the company offers customization and how well they handle complex designs. For example, if you need parts with complex geometries, the manufacturer should demonstrate proficiency in creating detailed molds.
• 1-2 Weeks Rush Orders: Inquire if the company offers expedited services and what the associated lead times and costs are. For example, a manufacturer might be able to expedite an order within 1-2 weeks for an additional fee, which could be critical if you need to meet a tight deadline for your business operations.
• Advanced Robotics and Automation: Check if the company employs the latest technology in plastic injection molding. A business that has advanced robotics and automation in their production line can lead to higher precision and faster turnaround times.

The following table provides an overview of common issues affecting wire surface quality and the solutions to address these problems, particularly relevant for applications in electronics and fine mechanics:
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Surface Defect Type	Possible Causes	Recommended Solutions
Scratches and Abrasions	Mechanical damage during drawing	Employ advanced lubrication techniques
Surface Impurities	Contaminants in metal stock	Use cleaner, higher-quality metal stock
Oxidation and Corrosion	Exposure to moisture and oxidizing agents	Implement controlled environments and anti-corrosion agents
Discoloration	Chemical reactions during manufacturing	Optimize chemical processes and use protective coatings
Geometric Imperfections	Inaccurate drawing tools and techniques	Enhance precision of drawing tools and process monitoring

Conclusion

Choosing the right plastic injection molding companies is crucial for your manufacturing success, ensuring high-quality products and efficient production processes. At Beska, we specialize in offering top-tier plastic injection molding services that cater specifically to the needs of the metal fabrication industry. Our advanced technology and expert team ensure that we deliver precision and quality consistently.
We hope this blog has illuminated the path to finding a trusted partner for your injection molding needs. If you are a business owner seeking to enhance your production capabilities with reliable and precise plastic injection molding, choose Beska. Let’s achieve great results together. Contact us today!

I’m about to start my first HAED, and I wanted to see what different counts would look like! Hopefully this helps someone else.
Note: I intentionally chose dark colors as those will be the colors I have issues with coverage and not the lighter colors.
First photo: picture taken ~3 inches from the fabric Second photo: picture taken ~1.5 ft away from the fabric (ft. cat plushie named Chris)
Needle: Bohin size 26
Fabric count: Top to bottom: 20 count (easy grid) Zweigart aida —> 22 count Zweigart hardanger —> 25 count Zweigart lugana (easy grid)
I will say, the 25 ct lugana was sooo soft. The 22 ct hardanger was a close second, but it was ever so slightly more stiff. The 20 ct aida on the other hand felt like sandpaper compared to the other two even though all of them were from Zweigart. It’s still soft compared to aida from other brands, but yikes, when you compare it to lugana, boy does it feel rough.
20 ct: Left to right, top to bottom: DMC 310 - 1 over 1 full cross, DMC 310 - 2 over 1 tent stitch DMC 154 - 2 over 1 full cross
22 ct: Left to right, top to bottom: DMC 310 - 1 over 1 full cross, DMC 310 - 2 over 1 full cross, DMC 310 - 2 over 1 tent stitch Anchor 403 - 1 over 1 full cross Sulky 1005 - 1 over 1 full cross DMC 154 - 1 over 1 full cross, DMC 154 - 2 over 1 full cross
25 ct: Left to right, top to bottom: DMC 310 - 1 over 1 full cross, DMC 310 - 2 over 1 full cross Anchor 403 - 1 over 1 full cross Sulky 1005 - 1 over 1 full cross DMC 154 - 1 over 1 full cross, DMC 154 - 2 over 1 full cross
Conclusion: TLDR: I will go with 25 ct easy grid lugana + DMC’s 310
I really wanted to do 22 ct hardanger, but I ran into two issues: 1) there is no easy grid 2) I couldn’t find a size large enough for my project LOL Therefore, I’m going to go with 25 ct easy grid, 1 over 1. The lugana is just so soft, and I’m comfortable with the coverage. Is it completely covered? No, but even from 1.5 feet away, it looks opaque.
The 2 over 1 feels too bulky for me as well. It’s partly due to the dark colors I was using to test these out, but it really started to get hard to see the holes when I was completing the top leg of the stitch. Also, when I run my fingers over the surface, the 2 over 1 feels too bumpy and hard. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I thought it would at least feel a little bit softer and puffier than that. I guess the stiffness may gear towards someone else’s preference, but I also didn’t like how the outline was not as clean as the 1 over 1. The 2 over 1 lost some of the crispness of the edges because it was a little puffy while the 1 over 1 has crisp edges.
I didn’t really have to struggle with putting my needle through the hole, but I didn’t have any confetti. I feel like if I do 2 over 1, it’ll get too tight, and I was already starting to feel the tightness with zero confetti (albeit manageable during my test).
Surprisingly, DMC’s 310 had more coverage than Anchor’s 403 LOL I thought it would be the opposite, but that was not the case… maybe I just had a thicker part of the skein in 310 during my test? I will add that 310 (slip) knotted on me like 15 times throughout my test, while the rest didn’t knot a single time. The knotting is the one huge difference that I noticed as I stitched. I will only stick with DMC’s 310 because of coverage reasons though. I heard that their floss cones are more consistent in thickness since they only dye it once while the 310 skeins are failed dye lots that get redyed into black. Maybe this will help prevent knotting? I’m also planning on investing in thread magic, so maybe that will stop the knotting in the future.
Sulky definitely had better coverage, but that’s expected since the thread itself is thicker. However, even with Sulky 1 over 1, I was struggling to see the holes again while stitching my top leg (similar to what I experienced with 2 over 1 with DMC). That alone made me not want to use Sulky for darker colors in my project. I would rather sacrifice coverage for ease of stitching and not worrying about if I put my needle through the right hole. These stitches didn’t feel as bulky as the 2 over 1, but you can still tell that it’s more bulky than the 1 over 1 at least. However, it’s still relatively smooth to run your fingers over. If Sulky had more colors and if 22 ct easy grid was manufactured, I would 100% opt for 1 over 1 Sulky on 22 ct!
The tent stitch is simply a no for me… however, I am thinking of 1 over 1 on 32 ct for tent stitch. Maybe that might be a good medium for me, but I’ll need to try it out!
I will add, the 2 over 1 on the 20 ct has fantastic coverage and doesn’t feel as bulky when I run my fingers over it. I think this and Sulky 1 over 1 on 25 ct are tied for coverage. It wasn’t hard to stitch, but still, there was a teeny bit of tightness while stitching. However, it’s truly not bad. (Maybe 18 ct 2 over 1 would be better for me?)
Anyways, this is an extremely long wall of text HAHA but I wanted to share my findings

As title says, This isnt a cautionary tale so much as a war story for the sake of it and to add to the wealth of knowledge on these bikes a story of… a curious thing that happened. XD That’s to say this isn’t a thing many will ever encounter, nor something one should ever worry about, but something that might make you say “hmm… neat” 😂
That being said this is a story of how I killed the unkillable, or I guess at least gave a KLR a heart transplant after complete cardiac arrest. The interesting journey of what happened, but I do not truly know how. So maybe some more seasoned KLR surgeons can offer additional insight into the how. I had considered breaking this up into the story and just the mechanical aspects for those not interested in the story, but the motivation here is the story and so that’s the read, enjoy 😀
About 8 months ago I bought a ‘09 KLR as my first bike. I’m an over the road truck driver and have always dreamed of putting a motorcycle on my rig, and decided at a fork in my life that it was time. It had 28k miles on it, amazing shape, very few mods, all ones that I considered valuable as I would have done them myself. Crash bars, metal skid plate, panniers with very nice Givi cases, Sargent seat, etc. The curious bit was a big bore up to 683. I did not ask what mileage it had been bored at or if it was done for maintenance reasons or just performance. In retrospect I would have asked these questions but that’s out of curiosity not because I believe to any degree the seller was misleading me. I do not believe they had any idea the events that followed would conspire and I accept them as just bad luck. What did follow is in the first 3 weeks I put nearly 900 miles on it and had only encountered a single issue which was the clutch slipping too easily under heavy acceleration. As one does with a KLR I had already ordered and done a slew of other personalization so I added new clutch plates and heavier springs to the list. Job went smoothly, the old clutch plates were worn but not to any degree that alone would warrant the slipping so the weak springs were the culprit as my research had strongly suggested. But new “performance” clutch plates sounded fun so I installed them as well 😀
This is where things get interesting. As some may know, on the right side of the engine there is an oil screen, a fine metal mesh that acts as a filter to catch larger particles. Definitely something to clean if you’re ever in there, as it’ll tend to have any gasket material and other manufacturing run off in it that over time could choke oil flow. In mine I found the expected gasket gunk, suggesting it had not been cleaned since birth but frighteningly I also found 2 mysterious metal pieces that appeared to be the greater part of a metal ring. Reference the 1st photo. They had been chewed up slightly suggesting they made their way through the engine less than smoothly but not catastrophically obviously as the motor ran fine with no signs of any problems. I spent the better part of the day digging through any and every resource I could find for an answer on what this ring could be and the further I dug the more and more confident I grew in my initial suspicions that it was a piston circlip… but this just didn’t make sense, how did it get there? How was it not more destroyed? How was the engine still running with zero indication of damage? The sun was setting and I had to be on the road in the morning so after weighing all the possibilities I decided to button it back up, hope for the best, and tell myself if it was fine before it’s fine now. As the alternative was tearing apart the engine which meant going back out on the road with no bike, and no idea where to even start weeks later when I returned. Of the many theories the one I convinced myself of was that this was indeed a piston circlip but not one from the current piston but from the original one. That the mechanic that had done the big bore had either snapped it when removing the original piston and it fell down in the engine to never be fished out, or maybe it had been the reason for the bore. 2 days later I get it out for the first time since the quick 5 mile test ride after putting it back together and my theory is proven wrong, violently. About 80 miles later I was enjoying the bite of the new clutch, accelerating hard through 50mph and bam instantly the rear wheel locks up. At this point I had just under 1000 miles under my belt on two wheels, no MSF completely self taught…. Holy shiet that was a bad thing nearly gone horrible. I don’t know how I had the muscle memory at that point to instinctively grab the clutch but I did fractions of a second before I went down, hard. As I coasted to a stop on what little shoulder there was my thoughts were “holyshitholyshitholyshitholyshit….Ohhhhhhhhh it was a piston circlip” before I even stopped 😂😂😂 Sure enough I look back to a trail of oil behind me, dismount and out of the front of the block I see a very displeased connnecting rod peeking out. Well, there’s your problem. I took a gamble and initially I was feeling like I had lost, but after not getting taken out with the engine, I was pretty okay with the situation. I rolled the bike into a church parking lot a couple blocks down the road and helplessly called for ride after ride on Uber to no avail. I was states away from anyone I knew and too far from any civilization to find luck with any ride share or cab service. As it started to get dark the 6 mile hike back to my truck in Mx Boots was not a great outlook but I was out of options. Just as I had buttoned up what I could on the bike getting ready to start walking I noticed an older couple sit down on their porch enjoying what was, to anyone else, admittedly a very pleasant evening. I’m shy as hell and absolutely terrified of being imposing, especially when it’s a true need… but these boots were brand new, zero flex, damn near knee high… just from standing there I was on the fence of what would be worse, boots or socks. So I mustered up the will power to make my way to their front yard and explain that my motorcycle had broken down and that I had no way to get back to my truck to come back and get it, if they’d be willing to give me a ride I’d happily pay for the trouble. They happily obliged and were the nicest folks you could have met, asked me about my travels and wished me luck in getting it back together, wouldn’t even accept my money. They drop me off, I get my rig back over there and load up the bike. They waved me off from their porch and that was that. I know that bit doesn’t pertain to the mechanical endeavor but I wanted to share it as well as an appreciation of just how much generosity can change the outlook in things. I had bought this bike at a critical moment in my life, during a separation, unsure what direction I was going, and it by all means was my coping mechanism. Sitting there stranded, the adrenaline started to wear off and the dread and hopelessness started to develop… the 6 mile walk back, nothing by my thoughts torturing myself for the dumb decisions I made would have left me feeling defeated and lost. But instead I got to share a tiny bit of my story, that it was still chaos but I was… proud of myself for chasing after my dreams not letting it consume me. And it was because of that moment of pride that I had the fuel to tuck tail and accept my circumstance, that I had indeed known this was a possibility and that it was not the end of my journey, just a different path. I believe without that I would have easily accepted the loss and dropped the bike off at home to gather dust and that would have been the end of my motorcycling experience. But I was determined. So I spent every minute of free time I had researching what I needed to rebuild it, what it’d cost, how hard it’d be, and if it was even something I could do over the road. As I added things up it was indeed doable but it’d leave the bike out of commission at best for well over a month… and I had a fire under me to get back on it… so I started digging through marketplace, eBay, Craigslist, etc searching for doner bikes or full engines. Scrounging up every penny I had, I booked a load and made my way all the way to Kansas City where I had found a salvager with a 2009 with just 1300 miles on it that was willing to take $1300 for the whole engine if I’d help him pull it. My determination was unwavering. I showed up at his house as early as I could after my delivery, about noon. My semi truck left on the street where it clearly did not belong 😂 It was a two lane and the right lane was conveniently closed, so I moved some cones and it worked out perfectly but was still a funny sight. He gathered bikes from auctions and had them scattered around his yard, and so while he gathered some stuff he pointed me to two other KLRs to see if there was anything I wanted from them. Ended up pulling a full yoshimura exhaust from one that he tossed in for cheap. Before I had gotten there he had already stripped the most of the bike with the doner engine down so it took us a little under an hour to pull it. Yet another really positive experience that I’ll never forget, really nice older guy who genuinely enjoyed wrenching on the bike with me, not just trying to get it done and get paid. Offered me any small bits like the rubber tank picks that would easily get lost for no charge. And even gave me an old Milwaukee battery charger he had laying around as I had lost my charger at some point and my last battery died while we were working on it. We had it out by 2pm and I heaved the enormous hunk of steel into my chest high passenger floor board of my semi truck to be on my way. And by on my way I mean 7 miles away to a Walmart parking lot where I then unloaded my bike and started the transplant. I gathered my tools while waiting for a Milwaukee battery to charge, caught my breath, and started the operation around 3pm. I was definitely a bit of a spectacle. Not everyday you see someone doing an engine swap in a Walmart parking lot. The semi truck parked alongside definitely added a layer that invoked enough curiosity for people to inquire about what they were looking at as they passed by. I enjoyed the conversation and that sense of pride grew ever stronger as I worked through it. Early on in the process another rider had briefly stopped by and asked if I needed help, I declined understanding he was inquiring if it was an emergency not if I needed a wrenching buddy haha. Over the course of the next 4 hours he passed by another 2 times, giving a nod of approval at my progress. I was fired up. So excited to get it all done, feeling like I’d be too tired to do anything else but driven just to know it was ready to ride whenever I was. All and all it took about 5 hours to get done, a few stuck bolts there, a few how the hell does this come out there, and a good bit of how does one finagle this thing back in here by themselves(ps lay it on its side right side and just set the engine down into the frame, stand up and then align it) and it was done. I had done some mechanical work on cars and what not in the past but honestly changing the clutch on the previous motor was the most invasive thing I had done prior to this. But my confidence was in the clouds, and rightfully so, because while it took some convincing with the starter this stagnant motor awoke with not a cough or a sputter, but with an immediate healthy growl! My excitement was immeasurable and my little KLR, now much more aggressively singing through the Yoshimura exhaust, seemed just as excited as me. The sun had set, I was exhausted and against my recommendation they had already booked me a load picking up early the next morning. But I couldn’t not sing through the streets with joy, so a quick ride I told myself…. I was gone for hours, returning well past midnight. Ripping around Kansas City, sobbing with joy, with what felt like the loudest exhaust I’d ever heard 😂😂😂 A true menace, she was alive and god damnit I was too.
Exhaustion catching up with me I loaded my precious back on to the truck and realized I still had an entire engine to deal with. So I opened one of my side bins, at chest height just as the floor board was earlier in the day loading the new engine. If I didn’t look like a maniac riding around I certainly did trying to get that motor up and into the truck 😂 I was too happy to be upset or anything but it was just about all I could muster to get it up to that height after the day I had had. 2am and I’m screaming, crying, and laughing simultaneously as I blew out every single part of my body trying to get this absolute brick of an engine into the side bin. While I know at that point I was significantly more worn out I still find it very funny that my sheer will power made that new engine effortless to lift into the truck, but the old one was an inch shy of being impossible 😂 Over 7000 miles later and that new motor is still singing happily ❤️
So… the old motor… it rode around in my side bin for 7 months till last week I was at home and finally had the free time to unload it and crack it open. Motivated by the interest of pulling the new clutch plates and springs I had put in it that’d only have about 80 miles on them, and the curiosity of figuring out if the seemingly obvious cause for its demise was indeed due to the piston circlip… breaking? This is where any KLR surgeons may be able to chime in, if they made it this far xD Because I pulled the motor down to just about as many pieces as one could so I could take the bits that may be useful to have on the road with me and have the less likely to fail ones ready to go if I needed them at home, and all of the evidence seems to suggest that one of the circlips did indeed get ingested. The piston is definitely missing one of the circlips, and… the entire part that would house it lol. The broken pieces found in the oil screen visually match the remaining circlip, and I never found any parts of the circlip if those pieces in the oil screen were not it. So… I have full confidence the circlip did indeed end up in the oil screen. The fact that I found it was complete coincidence and had I not changed the clutch out it likely would have failed just as it did, meaning that circlip could have been there for… lord knows how long… which raises the questions, how did that happen? How long could it have feasibly been there? And was this just a ticking time bomb bound to happen without warning at any time or did maybe the stress of a more aggressive clutch bite upset it? And also just… how does this happen in the first place? Improper install or weak components? I know the kit they used is from Schnitz Racing and I was told 683 but I’ve never seen a 683 kit, only 685 so I would assume maybe that, regardless not cheap parts so, just a curiosity.
Final notes, the new engine with 27k less miles absolutely feels more powerful than the bored out one did, that’s seat of the pants and inexperienced rider mixed with intense emotions but I still to this day think it’s more peppy. Have not installed the new clutch on the new motor yet but I’m curious as hell as I don’t think I had enough experience to really appreciate the difference for the 80 miles I got to use it lol.
Oh and as a trinket to remember this entire experience and to show my KLR is on its second heart I polished up the blown piston and hung it on the tail ❤️
Thank you for coming to my TED talk, stay safe out there!

So this lady. Brings a teal one, which when I went back there I realized she had gotten from the place it actually does go cause there was a perfect space left for it, but at the time I’d assumed that some other customer had shoved somewhere because that entire section is difficult to keep upright, let alone for all the home dec fabrics to line up with their tags, which is why we put a tag on the inside of the roll, so that people can read the roll and not rely on a section that falls over all the time.
This lady, apparently can’t even tell colors apart, cause she was insisting that the teal was “in the $5.99 spot” and when I informed her that there was the price on the inside, because that section falls over all the time, she made the bold assertion that “no one reads those tags so you should give it to me for $5.99 since you can’t do your job” to which I informed her that no, I won’t be giving her a cheaper price just because another customer put it in the wrong spot and she didn’t want to read the price on the bolt. Luckily she huffed off and paid, but the rage I felt when I went back there and realized that it was very likely exactly where it was supposed to go but she can’t even seem to distinguish between blue and teal when they’re next to each other… was another tally against my sanity here.
The entitlement of customers is unreal and I am not surprised that literacy rates are going down.

Hi! I am currently working on a project using McCall’s M8402 (a reprint of a vintage 60s pattern). The neckline is a little too big so it sits too wide on my shoulders. I want to bring it in but not entirely sure what the best way to do that would be. Two darts on the neckline? That’s the first thing I thought of but not sure how to execute it… any suggestions are welcome! Further info: the pattern comes in small/medium/large sizes and there is no zipper, it is a very boxy dress with only two darts in the front. I made a size medium because the small will not fit my boobs, which is where the main problem lies (a small would fit me perfectly in all other places). This is vintage fabric from the 60s and the dress did come out PERFECTLY everywhere else (my darts went seamlessly, attaching the facing, and the slits in the side seam all went so smoothly I almost couldn’t believe it). Is there any way to alter it to make it more wearable?

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