Fiero injector diagram
84 2.5l Slight misfire and rough idle after warm
2024.05.29 04:47 zostendorf 84 2.5l Slight misfire and rough idle after warm
After combing this site and others for the last 5 months, I have not been able to resolve my issue and I now have a challenge for the most expert of Fiero experts out there.
Background: I bought this car in January from someone who bought it from the original owner. The gas tank was rusted out and the fuel was not working. I bought the car, then immediately refurbished the gas tank and replaced the fuel pump and fuel pick-up assembly.
Car Info: 1984 Fiero, 2.5L Iron Duke, 4 Speed Manual, 67,000 original miles.
Primary Issue: I have a slightly rough idle that occurs after the car warms up and the ECM starts to do its thing. The car runs perfect on cold start and proceeds to run perfect for the first few minutes. The rough idle is characterized by a slight misfire every 5-7 seconds after the car has run for about 3-5 minutes. It does not stall out. The tach sits at about 900-1100 RPM, and the misfire causes the RPM to dip to around 700 RPM extremely briefly. The car does not misfire while driving. Sometimes the tach gauge does not work at all, and other times it’s accurate and displays this bounce in RPM.
Replaced parts: - fuel pump - fuel pick-up assembly - fuel filter - fuel regulator - fuel injector - ICM - Ignition coil - spark plug wires - distributor rotor - distributor cap - MAP sensor - IAC sensor - TPS sensor - O2 sensor - Engine Coolant Temp sensor - Engine Coolant Temp sender (for gauge) - All vacuum hoses routing from throttle body - clutch master cylinder - clutch slave cylinder
Other services: - ignition timing (followed the correct procedure with timing light and setting the ECM into the mode required for timing) - oil change - clutch fluid flush - vacuum leak test (ERG is currently plugged) - inspected and tightened all ground connections
Addition info: - the spark plugs appear to be in very good condition and do not display any fowling. They also do their job totally fine during the warm up operation. - I understand the tach filter could be causing the tach gauge issue, but I’m uncertain if the ECM relies on this component to regulate the engine. - the care is displaying NO CODES
PLEASE HELP!! if you have any clue I’d love to hear it. I’m at my whits end.
Edit: more context
submitted by zostendorf to fiero [link] [comments]
Background: I bought this car in January from someone who bought it from the original owner. The gas tank was rusted out and the fuel was not working. I bought the car, then immediately refurbished the gas tank and replaced the fuel pump and fuel pick-up assembly.
Car Info: 1984 Fiero, 2.5L Iron Duke, 4 Speed Manual, 67,000 original miles.
Primary Issue: I have a slightly rough idle that occurs after the car warms up and the ECM starts to do its thing. The car runs perfect on cold start and proceeds to run perfect for the first few minutes. The rough idle is characterized by a slight misfire every 5-7 seconds after the car has run for about 3-5 minutes. It does not stall out. The tach sits at about 900-1100 RPM, and the misfire causes the RPM to dip to around 700 RPM extremely briefly. The car does not misfire while driving. Sometimes the tach gauge does not work at all, and other times it’s accurate and displays this bounce in RPM.
Replaced parts: - fuel pump - fuel pick-up assembly - fuel filter - fuel regulator - fuel injector - ICM - Ignition coil - spark plug wires - distributor rotor - distributor cap - MAP sensor - IAC sensor - TPS sensor - O2 sensor - Engine Coolant Temp sensor - Engine Coolant Temp sender (for gauge) - All vacuum hoses routing from throttle body - clutch master cylinder - clutch slave cylinder
Other services: - ignition timing (followed the correct procedure with timing light and setting the ECM into the mode required for timing) - oil change - clutch fluid flush - vacuum leak test (ERG is currently plugged) - inspected and tightened all ground connections
Addition info: - the spark plugs appear to be in very good condition and do not display any fowling. They also do their job totally fine during the warm up operation. - I understand the tach filter could be causing the tach gauge issue, but I’m uncertain if the ECM relies on this component to regulate the engine. - the care is displaying NO CODES
PLEASE HELP!! if you have any clue I’d love to hear it. I’m at my whits end.
Edit: more context
2024.05.29 03:42 Small_Ad4675 How can the Passkey 3 System be disabled (derby car, no need to keep repairs nice)
Background: I recently got into derby racing with junker cars. This is my third year and car. It is a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi, supercharged. The problem is the supercharger blinded me and the guy I bought it from was very sketchy and I have since learned he isn't very trustworthy.
Anyway, I have the car now and it refuses to start due to the Passkey 3 system being completely unfunctional. Went to do the common resistor bypass but learned that there is a third party bypass module already installed, and I am not working with stock, clean wiring. It's a mess down there. Need advice on how to completely bypass the anti-theft system, which seems to be beyond repair. Can't ask the seller about the system/wiring as we left on bad terms.
To my knowledge, the passkey 3 system works to disable the fuel pump, the starter, and the fuel injectors. The starter is easy enough, already bypassed plenty of those before, like in my last car I did so off a light switch. On this car, I have also found the fuel pump relay and have hotwired it so that it will run the pump, which I plan to also put on a switch. This leaves the injectors, which is the part I do not know how to handle.
wiring diagrams just seem to show the injector controls being handled by the Power Control Module (no surprise) and from there being sent to the injectors, unless I am reading them wrong I don't see a relay that I can just jump to enable the PCM to get the injectors going.
As the title suggests, the repairs don't have to be nice, the car is gutted and going to be smashed up for entertainment at a County Fair. I have made it this far, and it is frustration to think I might have to start over when this car is completely capable of functioning, it is just dumb wiring that no longer has a use is keeping it from doing so. Yes, this car was running under my ownership, but this last winter must have done the anti-theft system in or something, but I know the car is capable of running.
What are your ideas? either I am missing a relay to enable the injectors, or I need to disable the theft deterent module and hotwire in a signal to the PCM to get that working. The jankier the repair the better, I am not spending hundreds of dollars on parts, it would be more than what I bought the car for. Can I rip the TDM open and hot wire something to get it to send the all clear?
submitted by Small_Ad4675 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Anyway, I have the car now and it refuses to start due to the Passkey 3 system being completely unfunctional. Went to do the common resistor bypass but learned that there is a third party bypass module already installed, and I am not working with stock, clean wiring. It's a mess down there. Need advice on how to completely bypass the anti-theft system, which seems to be beyond repair. Can't ask the seller about the system/wiring as we left on bad terms.
To my knowledge, the passkey 3 system works to disable the fuel pump, the starter, and the fuel injectors. The starter is easy enough, already bypassed plenty of those before, like in my last car I did so off a light switch. On this car, I have also found the fuel pump relay and have hotwired it so that it will run the pump, which I plan to also put on a switch. This leaves the injectors, which is the part I do not know how to handle.
wiring diagrams just seem to show the injector controls being handled by the Power Control Module (no surprise) and from there being sent to the injectors, unless I am reading them wrong I don't see a relay that I can just jump to enable the PCM to get the injectors going.
As the title suggests, the repairs don't have to be nice, the car is gutted and going to be smashed up for entertainment at a County Fair. I have made it this far, and it is frustration to think I might have to start over when this car is completely capable of functioning, it is just dumb wiring that no longer has a use is keeping it from doing so. Yes, this car was running under my ownership, but this last winter must have done the anti-theft system in or something, but I know the car is capable of running.
What are your ideas? either I am missing a relay to enable the injectors, or I need to disable the theft deterent module and hotwire in a signal to the PCM to get that working. The jankier the repair the better, I am not spending hundreds of dollars on parts, it would be more than what I bought the car for. Can I rip the TDM open and hot wire something to get it to send the all clear?
2024.05.28 05:57 Rough-Progress-17 How do I disconnect my fuse box?
 | submitted by Rough-Progress-17 to CherokeeXJ [link] [comments] |
2024.05.17 12:54 SufficientWhile5450 How the hell do you prime an MP8, after introducing a shit ton of air into the system (and by a shit ton, I basically mean “oops, all air”)
 | Basically here’s how this went submitted by SufficientWhile5450 to DieselTechs [link] [comments] New tech does oil change, forgets gasket on fuel water separator. He gets it started, dies 3 minutes later Now the new tech was alone, and someone told him over the phone to “check for double gaskets and keep priming” He confirmed there was not 2 gaskets, but forgor to confirm that there was even 1 lmao So anyway the manager tells him to keep pushing the primer button till it starts, so primes it for 3 hours. Which I presume instead of getting air out. He basically pumped 3 hours worth of air in, and continueously tried to crank it. So I’m reckoning the fuel lines are completely empty throughout the entire truck I replaced both fuel filters, filled them to the brim. Primed for a good while my self with the dumbass button, while checking fuel filter levels. They never got lower during hand priming. and gotten nothing The pic is a diagram of the fuel filter housing assembly in question, as far as I and everyone at my shop can tell, there is no port to hook up a davco primer to prime it like you could with Detroit and paccar I’ve taken off the primer button itself, cleaned the algae build up off to make sure it’s getting adequate flow. Everything I look up points to “injector cups killed them selves from continuous trying to start with no fuel”, but can find almost nothing related to MP8s, just Volvos with this same style of fuel filter housing (which I reckon is pretty much the same thing but I’m no master tech obviously) Feels like I’m missing something stupid obvious to get this thing started so if anyone has any ideas I’m game to try it |
2024.05.15 07:20 whiplash-willie Autel and 3.6 Pentastar Cam Data
TLDR: Trying to figure out which scan tool from Autel or others can show cam desired versus actual on 3.6 Pentastar.
Following up on some major seevice work at 171k miles on 2014 Wrangler 3.6 / auto and need some advice please:
Changed plugs, coils, injectors, oil cooler (dorman aluminum version) timing set (Melling) and cam phasers with new control valves (Standard Motor Products).
I don’t do this for a living but am definitely on the serious side of amateur / hobbiest. I’ve probably rebuilt to spec several dozen engines ranging from 1970’s Jaguars through FJ40’s lots of GM products in 4,6,8 cylinders, light truck and commercial diesels and powerstroke Diesels. I’ve never had a failure to start, run, or last. I have and followed factory service manual for the JK Jeep. I should have been able to do this!
Startup was rough but after a few attempts at cranking she bled the injectors and fired right up. Idles smoothly. Oil pressure 91-95 PSI cold and 25-30 hot at idle. Battery and alternator voltage good (don’t recall exact value). Within a 1/4 mile I was in limp mode with traction control and check wngine lights on. All of the codes are P000a-d. “Camshaft Slow Response”. Engine runs smooth through 5000+ rpm, but shifts are limited to 4th gear. So I drive to work 18 miles each way. Next day the lights go off and everything is golden. After 3-4 restarts, limp mode is back and wont go away!
Factory service manual says oil change, then replace pcm. Nope, not at those $$. I want to know what is wrong! So I do a bit of parts cannon…. New cam position sensors, although the fault seems to be on all 4 randomly. JSCAN only says “at least one fault has been counted in this position recently”. New crank position sensor. New cam VVT Solenoids. No Changes.
Then I start tracing grounds from the solenoids and get some intermittent high resistance. Ive had weird groundingg problems before, and I realized that my battery cable terminal negative side isnt clamping well. I can lift it off the post. The harness is generally crunchy and shitty from 10 years in desert heat, so I decided to re-do them.
Pulled the entire wiring harness off the engine and yanked the battery cables out. Replaced them with 2awg and bolt-down terminals. Continuity checked every ground terminal pin to pin. No fails. Same on the power side.
Fun side note, the 2014 Factory Wiring diagram has a major typo in showing incorrect ground terminal locations!
So, put that all back, pulled valve covers again, checked timing marks against youtube. It all seems right. I did not pull the timing cover again. I did clean the bits of metal powder off the camshaft tone rings with paper towel and brake clean. Restart engine. Starts instantly. Cam rattle for about 1 second, perfectly smooth idle. Same codes within 45 seconds.
So, i need a scan tool. Factory service manual says to check desired versus actual cam and crank positions. My old scan tool was PC based AutoEnginuity, but I hate the PC aspect and the subscription lapsed about 8 years ago. So im looking at Autel, but overwhelmed by all the options with very little info.
Can anyone tell me what level of Autel can show that live position versus desired position? Should I look elsewhere?
Mechanically, can you tell me if it is possible to overtorque an oil control valve? I keep wondering if the cam phasers could be dragging because they might be too tight? But if you grab the cam with a wrench, it moves easily and moves the phaser, so the lock pins are seated.
Cost isn’t a huge concern, especially if I can find a tool with longevity, but I cant use it for work, so it wont pay back / trying to avoid the Snap-off-in-you van. I can go a long way into trying to squeeze another 150k miles out of this rig before I lay down for a new Jeep at $75k plus!
Thank you for any and all advice and ideas. Brainstorming will help and I’m grateful for it.
submitted by whiplash-willie to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Following up on some major seevice work at 171k miles on 2014 Wrangler 3.6 / auto and need some advice please:
Changed plugs, coils, injectors, oil cooler (dorman aluminum version) timing set (Melling) and cam phasers with new control valves (Standard Motor Products).
I don’t do this for a living but am definitely on the serious side of amateur / hobbiest. I’ve probably rebuilt to spec several dozen engines ranging from 1970’s Jaguars through FJ40’s lots of GM products in 4,6,8 cylinders, light truck and commercial diesels and powerstroke Diesels. I’ve never had a failure to start, run, or last. I have and followed factory service manual for the JK Jeep. I should have been able to do this!
Startup was rough but after a few attempts at cranking she bled the injectors and fired right up. Idles smoothly. Oil pressure 91-95 PSI cold and 25-30 hot at idle. Battery and alternator voltage good (don’t recall exact value). Within a 1/4 mile I was in limp mode with traction control and check wngine lights on. All of the codes are P000a-d. “Camshaft Slow Response”. Engine runs smooth through 5000+ rpm, but shifts are limited to 4th gear. So I drive to work 18 miles each way. Next day the lights go off and everything is golden. After 3-4 restarts, limp mode is back and wont go away!
Factory service manual says oil change, then replace pcm. Nope, not at those $$. I want to know what is wrong! So I do a bit of parts cannon…. New cam position sensors, although the fault seems to be on all 4 randomly. JSCAN only says “at least one fault has been counted in this position recently”. New crank position sensor. New cam VVT Solenoids. No Changes.
Then I start tracing grounds from the solenoids and get some intermittent high resistance. Ive had weird groundingg problems before, and I realized that my battery cable terminal negative side isnt clamping well. I can lift it off the post. The harness is generally crunchy and shitty from 10 years in desert heat, so I decided to re-do them.
Pulled the entire wiring harness off the engine and yanked the battery cables out. Replaced them with 2awg and bolt-down terminals. Continuity checked every ground terminal pin to pin. No fails. Same on the power side.
Fun side note, the 2014 Factory Wiring diagram has a major typo in showing incorrect ground terminal locations!
So, put that all back, pulled valve covers again, checked timing marks against youtube. It all seems right. I did not pull the timing cover again. I did clean the bits of metal powder off the camshaft tone rings with paper towel and brake clean. Restart engine. Starts instantly. Cam rattle for about 1 second, perfectly smooth idle. Same codes within 45 seconds.
So, i need a scan tool. Factory service manual says to check desired versus actual cam and crank positions. My old scan tool was PC based AutoEnginuity, but I hate the PC aspect and the subscription lapsed about 8 years ago. So im looking at Autel, but overwhelmed by all the options with very little info.
Can anyone tell me what level of Autel can show that live position versus desired position? Should I look elsewhere?
Mechanically, can you tell me if it is possible to overtorque an oil control valve? I keep wondering if the cam phasers could be dragging because they might be too tight? But if you grab the cam with a wrench, it moves easily and moves the phaser, so the lock pins are seated.
Cost isn’t a huge concern, especially if I can find a tool with longevity, but I cant use it for work, so it wont pay back / trying to avoid the Snap-off-in-you van. I can go a long way into trying to squeeze another 150k miles out of this rig before I lay down for a new Jeep at $75k plus!
Thank you for any and all advice and ideas. Brainstorming will help and I’m grateful for it.
2024.05.06 17:43 RetroHipsterGaming Misfire on Cylinder 4, 2008 GMC Sierra 1500, SLE 6.0L
Hello All. I was hoping to get your advice on a cylinder misfire issue I am having. I have a consistent Misfire on Cylinder 4 of my 2008 GMC Sierra 1500, SLE 6.0L. It seemed to happen randomly coming home about a week ago. I have had a decrease in engine performance I think over the last 6 months. In subsequent testing and such, it seems like it more or less will idle ok on startup, but then after a few moments the lights come on and it starts idling really roughly.
So far, I have done what I would say are the "easy and common" things. I've swapped ignition coils and the issue didn't follow, I replaced the plug wire and spark plug. I also did replace the ignition coil since I didn't thing to try swapping before hand. Right now I think my plan is to do a compression test to make sure it's not some sort of piston damage. Assuming it's not though, I assume I need to replace the fuel injector.. With all that said, I have some questions since I'm not really a mechanic type.
submitted by RetroHipsterGaming to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
So far, I have done what I would say are the "easy and common" things. I've swapped ignition coils and the issue didn't follow, I replaced the plug wire and spark plug. I also did replace the ignition coil since I didn't thing to try swapping before hand. Right now I think my plan is to do a compression test to make sure it's not some sort of piston damage. Assuming it's not though, I assume I need to replace the fuel injector.. With all that said, I have some questions since I'm not really a mechanic type.
- Does my current plan/route sound like a good plan to take? Is there anything I've missed that I should do before moving any further?
- My ODB2 scanner (bluedriver) mentioned that it could be an o2 sensor. Do you think this could be the case if it is only on one cylinder that I'm getting misfires? (there are 4 sensors to my knowledge and I'm only getting a misfire on one cylindar).
- The other thing I wanted to just verify (idiot check since I'm a newb) is that Cylinder 4 on a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE is the second one from the front of the vehicle, on the passengers side, correct? I've seen so many diagrams and such, but if I've spent my time on the wrong cylinder I'd rather find out now than move any further. lol
2024.05.06 14:56 Hanzo_osama Misfire
I’ll buy some soul’s lunch today if they can help me fix this misfire Ik it’s to a sell on mp but only video I can send in subreddit. Vaccum leak? Injector? I’ve disconnected coil wires shocked the shit out of myself only cylinder 4 doesn’t make it sound worse, when I push the brake pedal it stars to make a hissing sound and Revs start to rise? Any ideas any diagrams explaining the vacuum system
submitted by Hanzo_osama to s10 [link] [comments]
2024.05.06 01:24 tmartt3900 Any insight on the issue, or where to start looking?
 | I bought a '92 Suzuki Sidekick that has had its fair share of modifications to keep it running. I am trying to fix items as they become annoying and this week I'm trying to get the lights behind the gauge cluster working so I can see my speed at night. submitted by tmartt3900 to AskAMechanic [link] [comments] I'm going to try to include all information that I think is relevant but please ask for more information if I'm missing something. I'm new to this lol. I also don't have a Multimeter and am hoping I don't need to buy one.
|
2024.05.05 23:35 Institute-Rep Thoughts on a Cloud Gateway Ultra based home network
 | I recently got hold of the Cloud Gateway Ultra as my first Ubiquiti product and after playing around with it for a few days it seems like a good candidate to replace my current network setup. submitted by Institute-Rep to Ubiquiti [link] [comments] I've yet to buy anything besides the UCG, so I created a high-level diagram of what I'm currently considering: Network diagram Not pictured are any client devices or VLAN configurations as I'm still in the planning phase. As for why I picked the Poe++ adapter rather than buying the external power supply version: It's cheaper. If you see any issues with this setup or have other suggestions, do tell! Otherwise I have a one unknown myself. Will a single Poe++ injector be enough to power 2x USW-Ultra and 2x U6-Mesh or should I buy another one for the second switch? EDIT: I see now that I should've mentioned that there is no centralized place where all rooms connect to the networking equipment. The walls are all concrete and not a single RJ45 Outlet existed before I installed one which connects Room 1 to Room 2. |
2024.05.04 00:10 BorrisX Fuel Injector Wiring Diagram
Does anyone have access to a wiring diagram for a 2008 Chrysler 300 Touring 3.5L RWD? The check engine light came on and car starting running and idling rough. Scan tool says: P0204 - Fuel Injector 4 Circuit Open. Noid light flashes when connected to cylinder 4 fuel injector, so I am assuming that the wiring and computer are OK.
Couldn't find what the ohms spec for the fuel injectors was, so I checked resistance of fuel injector #2 (it does not have a code) and it quickly flared a few numbers before settling on 12.6 ohms. When I checked #4 (the fuel injector with the code) the reading jumped around a lot longer and finally settled on 12.6 ohms. Anyone know if the jumping mean anything? I was hoping to see "OL" on fuel injector #4.
submitted by BorrisX to Chrysler300 [link] [comments]
Couldn't find what the ohms spec for the fuel injectors was, so I checked resistance of fuel injector #2 (it does not have a code) and it quickly flared a few numbers before settling on 12.6 ohms. When I checked #4 (the fuel injector with the code) the reading jumped around a lot longer and finally settled on 12.6 ohms. Anyone know if the jumping mean anything? I was hoping to see "OL" on fuel injector #4.
2024.05.02 23:38 RecklessD00DE 1991 Sentra Fast Idle Air Control part find
 | As the title says, I'm having an issue finding this part for my old Sentra, wondering if any old Nissan guru's know anything about it. The year on the VIN plate is 91', but most it matches more the 89' fuel/air diagrams since it's the carb/electric fuel injector setup. Starts and runs fine but starts to run rough and misfire after it gets to operating. Narrowed it down to Idle AiFast Idle Air control valve, which I've attached pictures of as well. All this to say I can't find this part anywhere, and if anyone has a lead, it would be greatly appreciated! submitted by RecklessD00DE to Nissan [link] [comments] |
2024.05.01 03:13 urielgi Problems with Ethernet sharing to a device
 | Good day to all submitted by urielgi to Fedora [link] [comments] Purchase the following device, LED Signal Tower (https://www.patlite.com/product/detail0000000651.html). The device needs 802.3af POE, so purchase a POE Injector (https://www.tp-link.com/mx/business-networking/accessory/tl-poe150s/). But where the LED Signal Tower device will be installed there is no Ethernet network, but there is a computer (Fedora KDE 39) with an Ethernet port, and it also has Wi-Fi, so my idea was to make a bridge or NAT between the Wi-Fi and the Ethernet port, but I have not been able to achieve it. The tutorials I have found do not work and are relatively old. I also tried to configure the Ethernet network with the “Share with other computers” option, but it did not work. The only thing I managed to achieve is that from the computer with Fedora 39 I can connect to the LED signal tower, but from another computer (in this case with Windows) I could not. Attached diagram https://preview.redd.it/h8jk51r6tpxc1.png?width=785&format=png&auto=webp&s=6b49e773dc56c205a8ab7646a1883540e55fbdb1 The idea of all this is to be able to access the LED signal tower from any computer connected to the network. Can anyone help me with the correct configuration or how to do it in Fedora 39? Thank you in advance Regards |
2024.04.25 01:34 Dustybot3 Need help with Fiero, not running right
My fiero (‘88 formula, V6, 5spd) has been running poorly for the past few weeks. It recently became very clear that its problem is fuel-related. It’s running incredibly rich. I normally get around 21 mpg and I got 14 mpg on my last tank. In the past few days it’s gotten so bad that the car won’t even run steadily enough to drive. It leaves soot on the ground behind the exhaust outlets and smells so incredibly rich when standing behind it. I pulled the spark plugs on the odd bank and all of them were very sooty so it’s a global fueling issue, not just one cylinder. Here’s the curious thing: during the time it’s been acting up, it has thrown three different codes. 21, 34, and 42. These are TPS, MAP sensor, and Electronic Spark Timing. I should note my fiero is pretty modified. Among other things, it has the throttle body and TPS from a 5.0 mustang, it has a 3.5L block from a ‘00s Malibu, 19 lb/hr injectors from a Ford 4.6 (to compensate for displacement increase), and a new PROM chip with a new tune. I’m wondering why it would be throwing these seemingly random codes for something that I can only imagine is a hardware issue. Is it an ECM issue? I bought a new Delco MAP sensor when the problem first came up, cuz that was the first code it threw, but that didn’t fix it. Thanks so much for reading, if you have any advice or theories, they would be greatly appreciated!
submitted by Dustybot3 to fiero [link] [comments]
2024.04.17 21:41 No-Comparison9213 Mk4 owners
 | i’m working on my second jetta that’s a 2.8 24v. does this look like the fuel pressure regulator injector? this is connected to my manifold. the sticker diagram under my hood is faded so it’s hard to tell. im only use to working on a 2.0 submitted by No-Comparison9213 to Volkswagen [link] [comments] |
2024.04.14 21:44 xxxtontacion 2010 Mustang GT 4.6
Hello fellow Mustang people, I’m looking for the diagram for the wiring in the engine bay. My injector wires got chewed by a squirrel and it seems my book is missing, so if anyone can help it’s much appreciated!
submitted by xxxtontacion to Mustang [link] [comments]
2024.04.14 15:58 GholaGolem Home Network Enhancement Plan
 | Hello all, I'm planning out a potential upgrade to my home network arrangement so I can get into more advanced homelab scenarios. Today, I have AT&T 5GB FTTH service that uses a combination modem/router (BGW320-500). For wireless, I have an Orbi RBK752 (1 primary, 1 satellite - running in AP mode) connected to this router. My personal PC is hardwired with Cat6A from the 5GBPS RJ45 port on the AT&T router. The problems I am trying to solve include: submitted by GholaGolem to homelab [link] [comments]
Overall, I'm hoping the experts here could give this plan a look-over to tell me if I'm doing anything grossly wrong or could easily improve some aspect of it. Here are some questions that I have already:
https://preview.redd.it/68n46vilaguc1.png?width=1177&format=png&auto=webp&s=d424bb2f48cf917c89c8e55fc9c596c6ebb65192 |
2024.04.13 02:31 GholaGolem Planning a significant upgrade to my home network - check me please!
 | Hello all, I'm planning out a potential upgrade to my home network arrangement. Today, I have AT&T 5GB FTTH service that uses a combination modem/router (BGW320-500). For wireless, I have an Orbi RBK752 (1 primary, 1 satellite - running in AP mode) connected to this router. My personal PC is hardwired with Cat6A from the 5GBPS RJ45 port on the AT&T router. The problems I am trying to solve include: submitted by GholaGolem to HomeNetworking [link] [comments]
Overall, I'm hoping the experts here could give this plan a look-over to tell me if I'm doing anything grossly wrong or could easily improve some aspect of it. Here are some questions that I have already:
https://preview.redd.it/q0cyggpa65uc1.png?width=1177&format=png&auto=webp&s=7500f29a3603eb033ddcff21fbed77d722e82a71 |
2024.04.11 19:58 Zarious00 Double check on set-up plans
 | I'd rate myself as an amateur in this home networking arena. I'm currently upgrading my setup and wanted a sanity check for my plans before I put everything in. Currently running off a Buffalo 600 w/ DD-WRT. It's worked great for me for years, would have just replaced with an upgraded one but it seems they don't produce routers anymore. submitted by Zarious00 to HomeNetworking [link] [comments] I settled on tp-links Omada system as it seemed powerful enough and still being within the budget. As shown in the diagram I am replacing the router, adding another access point, and adding a controller. I added the controller because I like being able to manage everything inside my own network and didn't want to dedicate a computer or mess with setting up a pi to run the control software. I know ideally both my switches should be managed ones too. Unfortunately for now that upgrade will have to wait. Here are my questions:
Edit: Added Diagram |
2024.04.10 21:29 JuztZake About the RS-25's injectors
 | Where are the fuel injectors? I'm looking at a bunch of diagrams of the RS-25 and it seems like all the fuel enters the main combustion chamber through the ASI since the other injectors seems to be for LOx. Is that right submitted by JuztZake to rocketry [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/oqhaj8tneptc1.png?width=560&format=png&auto=webp&s=839c4b029573bb2f9da464c5c1f268a879c8290f |
2024.04.07 17:39 SEND-ME-UR-TITTYS I think I've tracked down the issue
 | So we are getting continuity from the ground wires on the injector plug all the way to the ecm. For the power wires, where would those go to? The Fuse block? This diagram seems to be inaccurate for a 454. Where can I get an accurate diagram? We put in a new ecm and shorted something out so I think something might be wrong with the power wires submitted by SEND-ME-UR-TITTYS to ChevyTrucks [link] [comments] |
2024.04.01 17:49 The_high-commander Help Needed! No Injector Pulse.
I'm getting a Petrol 2012 Hyundai i10 (manual) back on the road that my grandparents gave me. The engine wiring caught fire a while back and it's been sitting for 2 years. I'm decent at fixing cars, but this is my first Korean one.
They had a bogus mechanic ( a distant relative) come and try rewiring the loom and he made an absolute mess out of it like seriously! I wished that he just left it alone.
So that brings me here today. I've addressed most of the wiring issues and the engine now cranks. However, it seems there's a fuel delivery problem - the injectors aren't getting a signal from the ECU. I've confirmed the fuel pump and pressure are okay and so is the signal from the ecu to the pump.
I tried removing the Crank Sensor and and the coil pack stopped firing, so I know that's good, I suspect that the Cam Sensor wiring is the issue as it's the one thing I didn't touch. I have no idea if the this CaECU expects this signal to be present for the injectors to fire as some cars I've worked on doesn't care if this is present or not or just mildly angry.
there's seems to be no fault codes present when scanning. so I'm quite lost.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks in Advance.
P.S
If someone has a Workshop Manual or just the electrical wiring diagram for this it would be super nice.
submitted by The_high-commander to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
They had a bogus mechanic ( a distant relative) come and try rewiring the loom and he made an absolute mess out of it like seriously! I wished that he just left it alone.
So that brings me here today. I've addressed most of the wiring issues and the engine now cranks. However, it seems there's a fuel delivery problem - the injectors aren't getting a signal from the ECU. I've confirmed the fuel pump and pressure are okay and so is the signal from the ecu to the pump.
I tried removing the Crank Sensor and and the coil pack stopped firing, so I know that's good, I suspect that the Cam Sensor wiring is the issue as it's the one thing I didn't touch. I have no idea if the this CaECU expects this signal to be present for the injectors to fire as some cars I've worked on doesn't care if this is present or not or just mildly angry.
there's seems to be no fault codes present when scanning. so I'm quite lost.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks in Advance.
P.S
If someone has a Workshop Manual or just the electrical wiring diagram for this it would be super nice.
2024.04.01 05:02 THE_EYES13 Injector tail re-imagined (read description for context)
 | For context I recently got back into murder drones and decided to start studying different parts of disassembly drones and how they work. For the first part I tried to make the injector in sketch form although I'm not the best at drawing. This was my interpretation of the injector. Another thing is that I substituted nanites for hydrochloric acid just because... well actually I have no idea. But tell me what you think. submitted by THE_EYES13 to MurderDrones [link] [comments] |