Volts diagram

I've been dealing with some crazy issues with my 2005 Crown Victoria, and I'm hoping for some advice. Firstly, my dash lights and climate control lights stay on even when the switch is off and the car is turned off, though they appear very dim. Strangely, they're brightest when the switch is off, and I can't adjust their brightness using the switch. Second, my tail lights aren't working. I've checked all the fuses, and they're all receiving 13 volts. I've tried replacing the switch and the lighting control module (LCM), but nothing has changed. I've even verified that there's no power reaching the tail lights. Surprisingly, my brake lights are still functioning properly. I've checked the ground connections in the trunk and by the PCM, and they seem to be in good condition. I've read that the issue might be with the instrument cluster itself, but I'm not entirely convinced. I've tried using the All Data diagrams, but they're difficult to understand. I'm really don’t do wiring , so this situation has me feeling a bit lost. Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. I've noticed that if I leave the car for a day or two, it starts right up without any issues. Even with the lights on

As I’m about to get this fella off the stand and down the stairs of my apartment I’m at the wiring bit and wanted to see if this makes sense.
Running a low volt cycle electric generator for kick start bike. Have duel tail lights but seems I just connect them then run those off.
But my key Ignition has the letters B I L which I’m assuming battery, ignition and then lights?
The diagrams only have usually accessory or sta. On their drawings. So wanted some input if any.
Please and thank you for helping this challenged individual.

In a newer 40 volt battery (2023) if you hold the charge button all 4 lights come on allow them to flash 4 four times,then it will spit out codes flashes 3 times then 1 two times then 2 so it reads 3112. Anybody know the codes? It won't charge. Charger works fine, I have another. I'm curious if anybody has done this, even on a battery that works fine, to make sure I'm pulling the right codes. I have extenesive background in the type of diagostics,but need diagnostic chart ,even wiring diagrams.

please not I haven't made a circuit diagram in years but I did my best to recreate the current setup.
I wanted to ask if anyone knows if I can charge the on board battery throw the the adding port ? the cell has its on overcharge protection board with an variable volt out.
any advice would be appreciated. any questions I will be happy to awnser
https://preview.redd.it/qe6e1ml6g8zc1.png?width=840&format=png&auto=webp&s=c1d3fe8433f9feb81ebc3c41b72af2fcc156dbd4

UPDATE 5/9/24: Updating post to reflect new data. Updates in bold and explanations in italics.
Howdy folks. I just had the engine out of my 2013 Outback 2.5i for some head work. This work involved removing the heads, which of course means the timing chains were removed and reinstalled.
Upon reinstallation of the engine, I have not successfully started the car. When I turn the engine over, the cranking noises sound normal, although there is a slight "coughing" sporadically...not rhythmic. The engine does not attempt to start at all.
Working through the FSM, I'm currently in the "Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure" section, under the Ignition Control System portion for trouble shooting. Page EN(H4DO)(diag)-80.
Step 1: Check spark plug condition ->New NGK SILZKAR7B11 plugs installed. PASS
Step 2: Check for spark by installing a plug into a coil, ground it to engine ground, and crank engine with throttle full open -> No spark observed. FAIL
Step 3: With the key on, measure voltage at terminal 1 of each coil wire -> Reads 12V at each wire. PASS (in previous tests I had reported this as 2.4 volts. This was due to a misunderstanding of what terminals were where in the coil wire clips. I've since educated myself on how to properly read wiring diagrams and feel confident that these readings are now accurate.)
Step 4: With the key off, measure continuity at terminal 2 to engine ground of each coil wire -> PASS
Step 5 and beyond: not completed due to insufficient length of multimeter leads. These steps check power distribution from the ECM-to-coil plugs. Given proper voltage at the coil plugs, I've decided to not conduct these tests at the moment, because an issue with timing/cam/crank sensors seems most likely at this point (i.e. ECM not sending a "fire" signal to the coils because of improper inputs from sensors).
So far I've:
-removed, cleaned and reinstalled each ground wire (heads-to-frame, and battery-to-engine block).
-checked all fuses related to the ignition system
-visually inspected all wiring and connectors
-cleaned and inspected the crank position sensor. Checked continuity using FSM procedure. PASS. (I don't have access to an oscilloscope so haven't done those checks)
-cleaned and inspected both cam position sensors. Again, no oscilloscope so didn't run those checks.
-Conducted visual inspection of the bulkhead wiring connectors. PASS
-Verified proper spark plugs, again. Just wanted to make sure they weren't too short or something.
-Measured voltage at pin 49 (ECM-to-coil power supply) of the bulkhead connector. 12V. PASS.
-conducted compression test on all 4 cylinders. 150psi on cylinder 4, 130psi on other cylinders. This, in combination with the sporadic coughing observed during cranking, had me leaning towards a timing issue. I'd also like to acknowledge the "low out of spec" compression on cyl 1-3, and high delta between cyl 4 and other cylinders: prior to tear down I conducted a compression test and had >150psi on all cylinders except cyl 4, which was low due to burnt exhaust valves...the reason for the teardown in the first place. I believe(d) the low compression to potentially be caused by misalignment of cams&crank, resulting in a valve being open slightly out of time and allowing cylinder pressure to escape on the compression stroke.
-removed timing cover and verified timing alignment. With the crank key aligned to the 6-o'clock position, the cam marks all align (pointing at each other). I don't believe timing to be the issue based on this information.
-conducted Immobilizer checks (page IM(diag)-2 of FSM). Immobilizer seems to be functioning properly and not blocking the starter.
My next step is to do a compression test to see if I messed up timing the cams/crank. DONE.
My next best guesses:
-Faulty cam position sensor(s)
-Faulty crank position sensor
-Improperly installed crank position sensor plate (the toothy thing that goes between the flywheel and engine block). I'm pretty confident this is installed correctly, given that it is doweled and interferes with the flywheel if flipped.
-Cams flipped? (i.e. intake cam installed in exhaust spot.) This seems very unlikely. I spoke with the machinist today and he reported never removing the cams from the cam carriers, or removing VVT gears from cams. It feels really hard to install these improperly.
Anyone have any ideas on what the source of this problem might be?

Yesterday my new fismann fluence modern arrived. Now i want to install them but i cant find a good wiring diagram. I have a Jackson dinky dk2x with a 3 way blade switch, 1 tone and 1 volume knob. I only can find this diagram with a battery pack but not with a regular 9 volt battery. Doe someone maybe have the right wiring diagram? Or what do i need to to different for a 9v battery instead of a battery pack
https://preview.redd.it/09cfj8zeezyc1.png?width=1026&format=png&auto=webp&s=ac225373bf46bbae091d8b473c43473668f39cc7

I have recently been working on my dad's 97 Nissan Altima GXE with him and I have taken the liberty to put up a post in his place since I am more technically inclined. So I apologize if there is a bit of a delay in responses or any findings/fixes we may discover.
Let me talk a bit about the cars previous condition before the current car crippling issue: The car ran great for a long time, and has been cross country a couple times. An issue popped up where the car would start sputtering and stall when at a light or stop sign, my dad would have to hold the break and give a bit of gas to prevent stalling. He found the solution albeit a temporary one to be propping the wire harness connecter for the mass air flow sensor with a piece of rubber, making the connecter make better contact inside. This worked for a while until it just all of a sudden didn't.
Current Issue:
We attempted to fix the MAF sensor connector by out right replacing it, we clipped the wire and soldered the new one on in the exact same way matching the wires exactly as far as we can tell. The reason I worded it that way "as far as we can tell" is that we cannot find the exact same looking connector any where, we checked ebay, o'reileys, auto zone, and even pulled the connector off the exact same model and year Altima from LKQ (used auto parts store where you gather your own parts off wrecked cars). Still didn't work. So my idea was to test voltages of the wires but I ran into an issue, I cant find the correct wiring diagram. I tested it with what looked the closest to what we had but my multimeter is saying all three wires on the MAF connector are 12 volts, anything I read online say there should be a 12v, a 5v, and a ground so this is very concerning.
All this is to say that for the longest time the car wouldnt start out right. We figured it should atleast start even without the maf sensor working so we checked for spark and that was good. Oil? Clean, Engine Getting Fuel? Check, Getting Air? Also Check. Next we cleaned out the distributer cap since we heard oil had a habit of collecting in there causing issues but that was clean, so we pulled all the plugs checked and gapped them appropriately and put them back in. Car sounded like it wanted to start but still wouldnt. So we did the only thing we could think of at the time and messed with the timing via rotating the distributer, and success, kind of. The car starts but is in what I would imagine is limp mode. It drives and pulls its own weight enough to move it to better work on it but thats it, it will stall immediately if parked.
So back to the MAF sensor we went, we cleaned the sensor and that didnt work, so we replaced it. Still no go.
We are at a loss since the car is only throwing a MAF sensor code, and an o2 sensor code which should be fixed soon since we will replace those both up and down stream.
If anyone has some input please let us know, we want to get the car running again as soon as possible.

So I want to use a lipo battery to power a circuit that has pumps and a micro controller. I'm concerned that I could fry my micro controller or worse while charging the lipo up and in general use. The idea of this circuit is to be able to switch from a charging mode to a use mode with a toggle switch. Can someone check my schematic and make sure I'm thinking about this correctly. I know just enough about electricity to get myself in trouble. I'm a mechanical guy.
'
The ground symbols in this diagram are all one shared node on a chassis, nothing actually goes to earth.
https://imgur.com/a/jZwsyyB
'
Major components:

• Arduino Nano
• 11.1v Lipo Battery 2200 mah
• Two AD20P-1230C 12 volt DC pumps
• Two L298N Motor Controllers
• Port for charging Lipo Battery
• Voltage divider to drop the 11.1v DC to 10v DC

So I want to use a lipo battery to power a circuit that has pumps and a micro controller. I'm concerned that I could fry my micro controller or worse while charging the lipo up and in general use. The idea of this circuit is to be able to switch from a charging mode to a use mode with a toggle switch. Can someone check my schematic and make sure I'm thinking about this correctly. I know just enough about electricity to get myself in trouble. I'm a mechanical guy.
'
The ground symbols in this diagram are all one shared node on a chassis, nothing actually goes to earth.
https://imgur.com/a/jZwsyyB
'
Major components:

• Arduino Nano
• 11.1v Lipo Battery 2200 mah
• Two AD20P-1230C 12 volt DC pumps
• Two L298N Motor Controllers
• Port for charging Lipo Battery
• Voltage divider to drop the 11.1v DC to 10v DC

All information panels of AC system are attached. I tried to get this fixed last year around November, but my landlord told me they dont work on AC units in the winter blah blah so I wanted to do research on my own and not go to them blindly. Tested cutting all breakers besides AC and turning the thermostat off, meter was still ticking up. Power draw dropped to avg 600 kwh during the winter, with heat running most of the time. AC breaker was off during this. Happy to give any more info if I am missing important pieces, thanks!
drive link to circuit breakdown: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dNUVyg9e3Z2aUboAA
https://preview.redd.it/znm8xll8o8yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=02f0c772c88f3a305e86848ad41832579f3f644b

Here are some general tips and tricks to go by when evaluating what equipment would work for your plan.

1. Amplifiers: A. Ignore max power numbers and claims from manufacturers. RMS power is the correct measure of what the actual output of the amplifier would be. B. Before you purchase an amplifier, make sure that your electrical system has enough power to support it. This is not only a good general practice, this can avoid safety issues in the future as well. C. Make sure that the ohm rating of the amplifier matches the ohm rating of your subwoofer enclosure. If your subwoofer enclosure has a rating of 1 ohm and your amplifier is rated at 2 ohms, the amplifier can fail due to its inability to provide power at the lower ohm rating.
   
2. Subwoofers: A. Make sure that you have enough power to support the subwoofer. A 500-watt amplifier and a 2000-watt subwoofer are a bad match. Although underpowering a subwoofer will not harm it, in general, it is a good idea to match the output of the amplifier with the requirements of the subwoofer. B. Make sure that you have enough space for the subwoofer enclosure. Every subwoofer has a recommended amount of airspace that it needs to operate efficiently. Make sure that you have the space in your vehicle to accommodate the airspace that the subwoofer needs, as well as the additional space that would be taken up by the materials the enclosure is made out of. Also, make sure to consider things such as port size, subwoofer placement, etc. C. Make sure that the final ohm rating of the subwoofers and the amplifier match. There is a sticky pose that has a link to the 12 volt website, which has a subwoofer wiring diagram that shows how to wire subwoofers to the ohm rating that you need.
   
3. Speakers. A. Make sure to check the available depth for factory drop-in speaker locations. B. Determine if the speakers will need an amplifier. If your plan is to replace your factory speakers without any further upgrades, make sure that the speakers selected can be driven by your head unit. A 150-watt RMS speaker is not going to sound good driven by a basic head unit. In my opinion, I would stay somewhere around a 50-watt RMS and lower for simple drop-in replacements.
   

The above information is, in my opinion, a general guide to best practices when planning what amplifiers subwoofers and speakers to purchase for your audio installation. This guide is by no means comprehensive and should be taken as a starting point for doing research into what would work best.

How to get the best answer to your question...
https://www.reddit.com/CarAudioFacts/s/djok2PFias
How to evaluate amplifiers, subwoofers, and speakers...
https://www.reddit.com/CarAudioFacts/s/JkWVeKlm5o
How to plan a system...
https://www.reddit.com/CarAudioFacts/s/w0OnegDa5F
The links below will take you to information that will assist in your car audio installs.
Amplifier reviews and dynos:
Big D Wiz has hundreds of amp dynos and reviews. He works with a lot of the major players in the YouTube community.
https://youtube.com/@wal?si=2FaemLoJVfmnVUj7
Bass Dad has a great YouTube channel for amp dynos, interviews, lithium batteries, and all manner of things car audio.
https://youtube.com/@BassDad?si=ma78psRc_VwsDePp
Facekicker has amp dynos and reviews on amps that you may not find on the other channels. This is the unofficial home of Jones Subwoofer Solutions.
https://youtube.com/@Facekicker?si=pSeXzEORDkuRJdhK
Car Audio Fabrication YouTube playlists: The following playlists are a great place to start learning about car audio. Subscribe to the Car Audio Fabrications YouTube channel. It's a great source of information.
For the complete newbie:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmybwiwzi3MU7VAcm9uyBlm-9SJL3TDta&si=yWGiUtZX6GYBLZxk
Car Audio basics:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmybwiwzi3MVV6AX5UIcR_0EtiNxDuf2h&si=1sb5RCmsHvPC9e99
Car Audio tutorials:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmybwiwzi3MUAwm6BuEg3SOlBeaQosHNu&si=Csw8b-Ymgy4Y-mvV
Car audio electrical tutorials:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmybwiwzi3MVPhGmTqQzRMLJ4GJMx1K9_&si=6qoZFPeE1rzA0bZq
Resonix Sound Solutions is your go-to for premium automotive sound treatment solutions. Here's a beginners guide to sound treatment:
https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-materials-reference-information/
MB Enclosures is a premier subwoofer enclosure builder. Here's the link to his YouTube channel:
https://youtube.com/@M.B.Enclosures?si=cXD70MjBlkzZ2EJR
The 12 volt is a great online resource for all this car audio. Here are some links to useful pages there.
Subwoofer wiring: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp
Ohms Law explained:
https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohms-law.asp
Ohms Law calculators:
https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohms-law-calculators.asp
Power and ground cable sizes:
https://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recommended-car-stereo-wire-sizes.asp
Subwoofer enclosure calculators:
https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#rec
T/S parameters explained:
https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/thiele-small-parameters.asp
DIY Mobile Audio:
The go-to online community for all manner of car audio installations.
Https://Diymobileaudio.com
Speakerboxx lite: Free online tool for designing and modeling subwoofer enclosure and frequency response.
https://speakerboxlite.com/
SubBox.Pro: Free online tool for designing subwoofer enclosures.
https://subbox.pro/en/
If there are any other resources that should be added to this list, please feel free to message the moderator for review and addition.

Hello!
I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero which I am converting into an off-grid/overland style vehicle. I have some equipment (linked below) that I am working to install so I can charge 2 House batteries off of solar but also charge them either simultaneously or standalone by my alternator via an isolator. I marked 550w of Solar in the diagram but technically its 600w.
Questions I have:

• Is the diagram below (I don't have fuses, but I will put them in close to the positive side on each of the connections) how this should be configured?
  • I am worried about not having the charging go through one regulator and overcharging the batteries on accident. The isolator not having a "charge controller" while the MPPT Solar charger is also charging the batteries has me worried about overcharging, but the batteries I believe are rated to protect this in some capacity?
  • I don't want to return the charge controller and purchase a DC-DC Controller with MPPT (what I am learning now does all of this) unless I have to (those are like triple the price).
• Regarding charging in general, the batteries are rated to "prefer" 20A of charging, however they are rated up to 70A. Whats the sweet spot here? Is there one? What do I gain/lose for going over the "recommended" 20A of charging sweet spot?
  • Is that sweet spot doubled because I am in parallel for my batteries?
• When I plug in the inverter (or other things), do I need to be on opposite poles of the batteries positive and negative terminals like what I have in my diagram for the inverter? I am new to Electrical stuff and want to make sure I wire in these parallel items correctly.
• I am worried that the Charging of the Solar Panels is too high for the MPPT Controller. The controller is 40A, but the solar panels are optimum 10A, max 20A it reads. Is this going to cause issues? Can the controller function and just "pass-through" the 40A and waste the 20A that I might get? 60A of Solar seems like I would have to be driving on the Sun to get that from my very limited knowledge.

If there are any tweaks to this, please let me know.
Thank you!
Picture of Battery Design: https://imgur.com/a/vNMragb
Items in this design:

• 2x Sok 206Ah batteries: https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/12v-206ah-lifepo4-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-pack
• Renogy 40A MPPT Charge Controller: https://www.renogy.com/rover-li-40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controlle
• 3x 200w Solar Panels: https://www.renogy.com/200-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-solar-panel/
• Isolator I was looking at purchasing (recommendations welcome): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY2C3NMZ/?coliid=I2CGSVXD63WKC4&colid=3OE2K3TYZFZ7F&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hello!
I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero which I am converting into an off-grid/overland style vehicle. I have some equipment (linked below) that I am working to install so I can charge 2 House batteries off of solar but also charge them either simultaneously or standalone by my alternator via an isolator. I marked 550w of Solar in the diagram but technically its 600w.
Questions I have:

• Is the diagram below (I don't have fuses, but I will put them in close to the positive side on each of the connections) how this should be configured?
  • I am worried about not having the charging go through one regulator and overcharging the batteries on accident. The isolator not having a "charge controller" while the MPPT Solar charger is also charging the batteries has me worried about overcharging, but the batteries I believe are rated to protect this in some capacity?
  • I don't want to return the charge controller and purchase a DC-DC Controller with MPPT (what I am learning now does all of this) unless I have to (those are like triple the price).
• Regarding charging in general, the batteries are rated to "prefer" 20A of charging, however they are rated up to 70A. Whats the sweet spot here? Is there one? What do I gain/lose for going over the "recommended" 20A of charging sweet spot?
  • Is that sweet spot doubled because I am in parallel for my batteries?
• When I plug in the inverter (or other things), do I need to be on opposite poles of the batteries positive and negative terminals like what I have in my diagram for the inverter? I am new to Electrical stuff and want to make sure I wire in these parallel items correctly.
• I am worried that the Charging of the Solar Panels is too high for the MPPT Controller. The controller is 40A, but the solar panels are optimum 10A, max 20A it reads. Is this going to cause issues? Can the controller function and jsut "pass-through" the 40A and waste the 20A that I might get? 60A of Solar seems like I would have to be driving on the Sun to get that from my very limited knowledge.

If there are any tweaks to this, please let me know.
Thank you!
Picture of Battery Design: https://imgur.com/a/vNMragb
Items in this design:

• 2x Sok 206Ah batteries: https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/12v-206ah-lifepo4-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-pack
• Renogy 40A MPPT Charge Controller: https://www.renogy.com/rover-li-40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controlle
• 3x 200w Solar Panels: https://www.renogy.com/200-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-solar-panel/
• Isolator I was looking at purchasing (recommendations welcome): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY2C3NMZ/?coliid=I2CGSVXD63WKC4&colid=3OE2K3TYZFZ7F&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it