Gravel for drainage

Just purchased home, previous owners had mulch covering the chipped areas (which I assume is from watemoisture retention).
Moved the mulch and will be adding drainage gravel alongside this small patch.
But how do I patch/seal these exposed areas? I had a mason come and quote me $1500 for this small 8 foot area because they recommended I added mesh and fully replace the mortar but the other areas are bonded solid to the concrete.

I’m planning a 10x14 gravel patio extension in my yard. I’m going with 3/4 river rock, I know that’s bigger than usual, but I don’t want pea gravel getting stuck in my dogs paws and being spread all over my house.
The question I have is about a base layer. It’s going to be sunken in, roughly level with the lawn and an existing paver patio. The soil is VERY poor draining, like puddles remain for 2 days after a rain poor. To prevent having a lake, I’m planning to dig down an extra few inches and put a base down, covered with fabric, then the river rock.
I first thought about using 1b clean stone. I know it doesn’t “compact”, but being it’s only 1/2” stone, do you guys think it will pack itself in enough to not move around like a stone quick sand?
My other option is to put compacted 2a down, but I’m not sure if that will improve my drainage issue at all.
Any help is appreciated.

Live in a 30 year old+ home in an area that has received more rainfall than ever the last year. Moved in last year and noticed some drainage issues, pooling, needing to regrade, etc. on the outside along with evidence of moisture (white stuff)( but never sitting water on lower interior crawlspace walls). To remedy this, we made sure the dirt was regraded to move moisture away, had a layer of gravel added, weed barrier, and then river rock outside around foundation. We had a heavy storm Friday night and all day Saturday. It’s also been very humid. Had to dig 6 inches below grade and out next to the foundation to begin termite prevention trenching and noticed a few inches of discolored foundation wall (wet looking) and the dirt was moist but not necessarily pooling or muddy in this area. Is this normal for the wall to still be discolored and wet looking a few days after a heavy storm? Or this concerning? I’m kinda out of drainage solutions.

Looking to make a flat play area (without grass) to put my daughter's playhouse and swing set in the white roped area in the picture below. It's the flattest spot in my yard.
The blue line is where water almost runs like a stream when it rains hard. Red line shows the slope of the land.
My questions:

1. Is there a way to dig out an area there that has some sort of French drain below it so water doesn't accumulate in that area?
   
2. What type of material do you recommend I put down in the area? I looked at rubber tiles but they are $$$. Maybe pea gravel since it will be good for drainage?
   

Image link: https://ibb.co/2PwM6h5

Starting a large paver patio and I'm seeing conflicting information on which base to use. I'm in norther WI with a lot of freezing.
Is it better to use 6 inches of 3/4 crushed clean gravel for the main base? Or should it have fines in it? Ive read that crushed is better for drainage.
I am also reading that it's becoming common practice to use 1/8 chip stone on top instead of sand. I cannot for the life of me find 1/8 chip stone anywhere near me however. So that being said:
If I use 6 inches 3/4 clean crush, and try to put 1-2 inches of sand on top, won't that sand just travel down inside of the crushed rock? What am I supposed to use if I can't find chip stone?

I'm in the process of creating underground nesting totes and have seen conflicting information on whether it's better or not to have holes in the bottom for drainage. What's the general consensus?
For background, the soil is clay and the base of the pit has been filled with about 2-4" of gravel. Based in Sydney, Australia the water table is well below the bottom of the pit but we can get Summer rains that lead to waterlogged soils, particularly in la Nina years. The totes will have a couple of inches of dried woodchips in the bottom, then wood shavings and straw.
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Help! I repotted a ton of plants last weekend and just discovered several tiny (3-4mm) transparent worms (or worm-like) in the soil.
Are these likely to harm my plants?
I used outdoor peet-free compost from the garden centre (all I had available, not ideal I know). And mixed with clay balls and aquarium gravel for drainage.
Really don’t want to have to pot everything again so hoping they are either harmless or there is a way to get rid of them in the soil…
Can’t get a good picture as they’re too small, sorry.

Building a sidewalk extension into a patio out of 4”x8” brick pavers. Roughly 300sf and was planning to use plastic edgers with stakes on all sides and polymeric sand to keep everything from shifting. I live in SC on clay soil (poor drainage and low frost).
I’ve seen a lot of variation on sub base prep so the question is what type of gravel should I use for the sub base? Some say 1.5” gravel or smaller like #5 stone while others say #57 or down to #789.
Also have the option between river sand and masonry sand for the paver base at the local landscape supply so any suggestions are appreciated.

Couple seasons now getting back into golf and I'm really tracking my strokes so I can focus on weak areas. Check my understanding of rules for a couple scenarios I find myself in at home. These aren't tournament scenarios but I want to treat them as such:
Scenario 1. Slice out of bounds. Off the tee box on the right of the fairway are white OB stakes (there's a neighborhood). I see my ball, it's in someone's yard. I CAN pick up my ball and drop it back in bounds for TWO strokes (hitting fourth shot from here). Or, I can go back to the tee box and hit my third shot (stroke and distance). I guess I could play a provisional from the tee, perhaps only if I wasn't sure I'd actually find the first one. Then I'd have to be careful about wrong ball if I do find mine somewhere playable. Easiest to me is the two-stroke drop and play from where I went out of bounds.
Scenario 2. In a ditch/creek. I'm on a fairway and there's a drainage ditch between me and the green. Sometimes it's filled up other times its empty. During tournaments I think it usually gets red stakes but on most days it's just a ditch. I duff my 7 and put the ball in this ditch. I can see the ball. Treating it like a penalty area, I can go back on the line for ONE stroke and drop my ball prior to the ditch. I then proceed as normal, now one stroke behind. or treating it as unplayable, I could do the same thing, also for ONE stroke, yes?
Scenario 3. The Pond. Off the tee box I hook it into the water. I saw it go in the water. From the tee, I can hit shot 3 and play on (stroke and distance). I think that's pretty much it. Can I go back on line and play 3 (or 4) from up ahead near where I crossed into the water?
Scenario 4. The Woods. Off the right side of the fairway is a big gulley and trees, big drop off, I'm not gonna climb down in there. I watch the ball hit a tree and fall into the gulley. It's gone. I think this area is marked out of bounds for tournaments. I can take two(?) strokes and just play from where I saw it go into the woods? I guess I could take one stroke and play from where I'm standing (stroke and distance?) or is the out-of-boundsness a factor here different than my first example. The ball is gone and the OB isn't marked. It's just practically out of bounds.
Scenario 5. The bridge. There's a bridge over another ditch/creek. Not marked, but I think gets red stakes during tournaments. I can see my ball kinda under the bridge. I could probably go down in there and flop shot it, but that seems silly. I can take one stroke and hit from prior to the ditch (on the line?).
Scenario 6. On a cart path and/or in long grass being regrown. We have a funny spot on one of our holes where there's a gravel cart path and also some ropes for where they're re-growing grass. I land here often and it's always a weird one. I don't wanna swing and hit gravel on the path. and I can't hit it out of roped 12-inch grass with a net over it. I feel like if I'm on the gravel path I get (free?) relief back on line, and if I'm in the grass I get (free?) relief because it's 'ground under repair'. Is this right?
These are the things I see the most at home; hopefully I'm counting these right.

Hi! :)
This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago.
However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups!
I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach.
So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to.
I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage.
I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be.
Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕
TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive?
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Hey everyone! Just needing some advice on a fence I’m building and would greatly appreciate any tips or knowledge.
So I live in a very rocky area which has resulted in the soil being so hard that even a 110CC auger couldn’t get through without it bucking a few times. My hope is that with my fence being 6ft above ground am I able to get away with being 24in deep exact including gravel for drainage? I know it’s cutting it close for requirements but with how hard the ground is I can’t really go any deeper without using industrial equipment. What’s your advice?

https://archive.is/fJOYt
An extensive addition to Hamshaw Lumber’s South Deerfield location can move forward following the Planning Board’s site plan review and stormwater permit approval this week.
The New England hardware store is seeking to construct a new 12,245-square-foot building at 14 Elm St., adjacent to its existing building at 16 Elm St. The new lumber storage and sales warehouse space will go on land Deerfield swapped with the company, which allowed the town to go through with its extensive Leary Lot project.
“Generally the site plan for this project is pretty simple,” said Jeff Squire, a landscape architect and principal of Berkshire Design Group, who also worked on the Leary Lot with the town. Along with the extended store space, Hamshaw Lumber is also going to add new spaces to the front of its building, extend its gravel parking lot and connect a rear sidewalk to what will be the public sidewalk of the Leary Lot.
Ken Hamshaw, president of Hamshaw Lumber, said business at the front of the store will remain largely the same, as “cash-and-carry purchases” will be done in the front, while larger purchases can be loaded into people’s vehicles behind the building.
The new building, said architect Erica Rioux Gees, will be designed to fit in with Hamshaw Lumber’s other locations and will conform to other designs located in South Deerfield, as the building is a “gateway project” that greets drivers as they turn off Routes 5 and 10. “It will completely fit in with the scale of the town center,” Rioux Gees said, adding that the building will “follow that same vocabulary and use the same materials, the same trim details,” as the company’s other stores.
Planning Board questions on the site plan were limited, although there was a brief discussion on the stormwater permit and if the board should pursue a peer review of the proposed system.
The company is proposing three drainage areas that will take water from the proposed building’s roof, part of the existing roof, and the surrounding area of 14 and 16 Elm St., which will all flow directly into the existing Elm Street drainage system.
“It is a 12,000-square-foot addition, there is a lot of water,” said member Rachel Blain. “I feel like it’s very well presented and I know they’ll be good neighbors, but it is a big project.” Building Commissioner Robert Walden and Planning Board Chair Denise Mason said the proposed system will be effective, especially given that Berkshire Design Group worked on the Leary Lot.
“I didn’t think it was that complicated,” Walden said. “And seeing as how Berkshire Design did the Leary Lot and seems to be thinking of the two of them together … I have confidence in them, but ultimately it’s your decision.”
Squire added that the town abuts Hamshaw Lumber on three sides of the property and Berkshire Brewing Co. is the abutter on the north end, and they “feel comfortable in the system that we designed to accommodate that runoff.”
“We’re certainly capturing everything and then some,” Squire said. “It’s pretty robust in terms of how much water we’re capturing.”
The Planning Board opted to not have a peer review conducted and unanimously approved the site plan review and stormwater permit.