Hvac troubleshooters trane xl14i heat pump 4 ton
Best Eye Massager Singapore
2024.05.16 08:51 simibestsg Best Eye Massager Singapore
 | IntroductionTaking care of your eyes has never been more critical, especially with the increasing screen time. Eye strain, fatigue, and related issues are common in our digital age. One effective solution that's gaining popularity is the eye massager. Let's dive into the world of eye massagers and discover why they're becoming a must-have gadget for many in Singapore.Why Choose an Eye Massager?https://preview.redd.it/1djpt3eyjq0d1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=2d0ac20640354e830b3cc0eef524cf7771e8fefbRelieving Eye StrainStaring at screens all day can lead to significant eye strain. An eye massager can provide much-needed relief by gently massaging the eye area, helping to reduce tension and fatigue.Improving Sleep QualityUsing an eye massager before bed can help you relax and unwind. The gentle massage can promote better sleep by reducing stress and inducing a state of calm.Reducing Dark Circles and PuffinessDark circles and puffiness are often signs of tired eyes. Eye massagers can help alleviate these issues by improving blood circulation and reducing fluid retention around the eyes.Enhancing Blood CirculationBetter blood circulation means more oxygen and nutrients are delivered to your eyes. This can lead to healthier eyes and reduced symptoms like dryness and irritation.Key Features to Look for in an Eye MassagerHeat TherapyHeat therapy can soothe tired eyes and improve blood flow. Look for an eye massager that offers adjustable heat settings for maximum comfort.Vibration SettingsVibration can enhance the massage experience by providing gentle pulses that stimulate the eye area. Adjustable vibration settings allow you to customize your massage.Air Pressure MassageAir pressure massage mimics the sensation of a professional massage. It gently squeezes and releases the eye area, providing a relaxing and therapeutic effect.Portability and Battery LifeFor those on the go, a portable eye massager with a long battery life is a must. Ensure it’s lightweight and easy to carry.Adjustable Fit and ComfortComfort is key when it comes to eye massagers. Look for one with adjustable straps and an ergonomic design to ensure a snug and comfortable fit.Top Eye Massagers Available in SingaporeLet's explore some of the best eye massagers in Singapore. We'll look at popular brands and their standout features.Best Eye Massagers in SingaporeRenpho Eye MassagerFeatures:
Breo iSee4 Eye MassagerFeatures:
OSIM uGalaxy Eye MassagerFeatures:
E3 Portable Eye MassagerFeatures:
iDream5 Eye and Head MassagerFeatures:
How to Use an Eye Massager EffectivelyUsing an eye massager is simple, but here are some tips to get the most out of it:
Safety Tips and PrecautionsWhen to Avoid Using an Eye MassagerIf you have any eye conditions or have recently undergone eye surgery, consult your doctor before using an eye massager. Also, avoid using it if you have any skin irritation or infections around the eyes.Maintenance and CareRegularly clean your eye massager with a damp cloth and ensure it’s completely dry before storing. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for maintenance to ensure it lasts longer.Customer Reviews and TestimonialsHearing from real users can give you a better idea of what to expect. Many users report significant relief from eye strain and better sleep quality after using an eye massager.ConclusionIncorporating an eye massager into your daily routine can provide numerous benefits, from reducing eye strain to improving sleep quality. With various options available in Singapore, finding the right one for your needs is easier than ever. Remember to consider key features like heat therapy, vibration settings, and portability to ensure you make the best choice.FAQsWhat is the best eye massager for dark circles?The Breo iSee4 Eye Massager is highly recommended for reducing dark circles due to its effective air pressure massage and heat compression features.How often should I use an eye massager?Using an eye massager once a day for 10–15 minutes is generally sufficient to reap the benefits.Are eye massagers safe for everyone?Eye massagers are generally safe, but it's best to consult with a healthcare provider if you have any underlying eye conditions.Can eye massagers help with headaches?Yes, certain models, like the iDream5 Eye and Head Massager, are designed to alleviate headaches by providing a comprehensive massage.What should I do if my eye massager stops working?Refer to the user manual for troubleshooting tips, or contact the manufacturer's customer service for assistance. |
2024.05.16 07:28 katiewind110 Single Zone mini-split - is commercial install really that much more expensive than residential?
I have a small business - 2 person, never going to make me rich, but I get to do the work in a way that is meaningful to me - that I need a cooling solution for. Second story of a mixed use commercial complex with a sloped roof. I was just given a quote for $34k to install a single zone mini split AC. I was expecting more of the $13-17k range. This is in the California Bay Area, near but not in silicon valley
I've asked around, and the residential version of this install seems to have cost about $7-10k within the last 2-3 years.
Why is this bid so much higher? Is this a brush-off "happy price" bid or is this realistic? The person who I asked to review it (used to work in real estate so knows what bids are supposed to look like) said this was vague, had a longer list of exclusions than inclusions, some of which should have been included, and missing a bunch of details. Are commercial installs really 3-4x more expensive than residential? The leasing agent and/or property manager is the one who solicited this bid for me, so I'm wondering if that may have made a difference and they thought deeper pockets could afford it. Or, I could be just totally out of touch.
Thoughts from people who know how much this stuff actually costs would be much appreciated.
And yes, as a service providing business owner, I know that things cost what they cost, and good work doesn't come cheap, and I respect that the HVAC employees are skilled tradesmen and I value their expertise. This is just out of my wheelhouse and I want to know if that's a "go away" bid or a real one.
submitted by katiewind110 to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
Inclusions: Provide and install (1) 3 ton mini split system, Including :And exclusions:
Wall Mounted Fan Coil
Roof Mounted Condenser and support pad.
DX Refrigerant Piping
Wall Mounted programmable thermostat.
• Condensate pump and piping to closest drain.
• Electrical circuit from existing panel to equipment. Budget, a sight visit will be required to
confirm capacity.
• Rigging
• Start and test system.
Overtime.It also mentions that the project will require a roofing contractor, whose costs aren't included in this bid.
• Fire life safety system, fire life safety wire, Fire dampers and sprinklers.
• Permit and plan check fees.
• Structural engineering, Structural calculations and permit set drawings for
Owner and city review.
• Structural support or modifications.
• Line Voltage Electrical.
• Plumbing / condensate piping.
• DDC controls.
• Roof Screen.
• Architectural and wall work.
Cutting, patching or painting.
• Ceiling repair.
• Duct pressure or leak testing, Duct cleaning and Sound Testing.
• Performance of existing equipment andsystems.
• Warranty, repair or replacement of existing equipment.
• Decontamination and disposal or handling of hazardous materials or wastes.
• LEED or Third party commissioning and or documentation.
• Any work not mentioned above.
I've asked around, and the residential version of this install seems to have cost about $7-10k within the last 2-3 years.
Why is this bid so much higher? Is this a brush-off "happy price" bid or is this realistic? The person who I asked to review it (used to work in real estate so knows what bids are supposed to look like) said this was vague, had a longer list of exclusions than inclusions, some of which should have been included, and missing a bunch of details. Are commercial installs really 3-4x more expensive than residential? The leasing agent and/or property manager is the one who solicited this bid for me, so I'm wondering if that may have made a difference and they thought deeper pockets could afford it. Or, I could be just totally out of touch.
Thoughts from people who know how much this stuff actually costs would be much appreciated.
And yes, as a service providing business owner, I know that things cost what they cost, and good work doesn't come cheap, and I respect that the HVAC employees are skilled tradesmen and I value their expertise. This is just out of my wheelhouse and I want to know if that's a "go away" bid or a real one.
2024.05.16 05:58 Historical_Money2684 HVAC question
Long story short, I am in the process of remodeling a house built in 1904, at some point since then, they added HVAC into the house for the bottom level only(about 900 SQFT) which runs off a furnace in the unfinished basement that provides heat only.
The upstairs has literally no heating or cooling at all & is about 550 SQFT or so. There is NO feasible way to add duct work to the upstairs without seriously compromising the flow of the house.
I have had 4 HVAC techs out & they all give a varying answer to solve the problem which is to get heating & cooling throughout the house.
The current idea was to install a large mini split system in the upstairs, 3 heads, all 12,000 BTUs & allow that to cool the downstairs.
Will this work?
submitted by Historical_Money2684 to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
The upstairs has literally no heating or cooling at all & is about 550 SQFT or so. There is NO feasible way to add duct work to the upstairs without seriously compromising the flow of the house.
I have had 4 HVAC techs out & they all give a varying answer to solve the problem which is to get heating & cooling throughout the house.
The current idea was to install a large mini split system in the upstairs, 3 heads, all 12,000 BTUs & allow that to cool the downstairs.
Will this work?
2024.05.16 05:56 niceglguy Need a thermal ground cover for a Saluspa Santorini inflatable and water care suggestions
 | I plan on putting it outside on my porch but have read it's good to get something to put under it so that it doesn't lose heat as fast. submitted by niceglguy to hottub [link] [comments] The dimensions on the box say it's 85 inches x 31.5 inches.It's round so I believe the 31.5 is just how tall it is so disregard that number. Anyways.. I was thinking some interlocking tiles of some sort?I don't care if they're round or square.. as long as they cover the correct area. I'd also like something to put under the pump/ heater itself so that it's not directly on my wood porch.. so maybe a little extra tile for that. I'm not wanting something paper thing.. but doesn't need to be three inches thick either. Doesn't have to be interlocking just figured that'd be easier? Also it's my first time having a hot tub.. what levels do I need to keep track of for water quality.. and what chemicals/chemical kit should I get that doesn't cost a ton of money?I'm open to strips or digital if not overly expensive. Please see pictures for dimensions, thank you! https://preview.redd.it/e20oxx9top0d1.jpg?width=1778&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=809036caa849e38d8ea0009e4d5ab577631d6dfe https://preview.redd.it/46e5bv9top0d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=28377064b0e76a42214c66fecdfdd11f5bdd06ff |
2024.05.16 05:30 Bochai127 $19.99 -29% SUOCO 8 Jumbo Vacuum Storage Bags, Space Saver Bags with Travel Hand Pump, Compression Airtight Sealer Bags for Clothes, Bedding, Pillows, Comforters, Blankets
 | https://amzn.to/3WPQBiq 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 36,274 ratings 9K+ bought in past month submitted by Bochai127 to AmazonDealsSavers [link] [comments] Customers sayCustomers like the ease of use and size of the storage bag. For example, they mention it's easy to use with a vacuum and that it frees up a ton of space. That said, some complain about the suction and leakage. Opinions are mixed on quality, value, and the pump.
https://preview.redd.it/wjtsgij51p0d1.png?width=1500&format=png&auto=webp&s=52cc3cdfed04ed0c63d99576b7b8e147d9bb4ca8 https://preview.redd.it/21xbye961p0d1.png?width=1500&format=png&auto=webp&s=e742c69c67771b0c3e6ad8967d552ea0a9d81245 https://preview.redd.it/r99puw571p0d1.png?width=1500&format=png&auto=webp&s=fbfa862e7775ac2d4bc574e729fb94331a51db55 |
2024.05.16 05:08 Accoolair 5 Signs You Need An AC Repair in Boca Raton
 | Having a working air conditioning system is crucial to staying cool and comfortable indoors when Boca Raton's temperatures climb. However, over time, just like any mechanical system, your air conditioner could have problems that need to be fixed by a professional. By identifying the warning indicators of a failing air conditioner, you can take quick action to stop additional damage and guarantee peak performance. In this post, we'll look at the main indicators that you require Boca Raton AC repair. submitted by Accoolair to u/Accoolair [link] [comments] AC Repair in Boca Raton 1. Weak AirflowDiminished or weak airflow from the vents is one of the most typical signs of AC issues. If you observe that the airflow from your vents is less than typical, there may be a problem with your ducting, an obstruction in the air filter, or a broken blower fan. In addition to compromising your comfort, decreased airflow suggests that your air conditioning system is working harder than it should, which could result in higher energy costs.2. Warm AirCooling your house is the main function of your air conditioner, so if it's blowing warm air instead, there's a serious problem. Warm air coming from your AC could be caused by a number of problems, such as leaks in the refrigerant, faults with the compressor, or problems with the thermostat. It is imperative that you take immediate action to address this symptom since ignoring it may cause additional harm to your system and discomfort for you and your family.3. Strange NoisesYou should never disregard strange noises coming from your air conditioner. While some noise is inevitable during operation, unusual or loud noises may be a sign of more serious problems. Sounds like grinding, slamming, hissing, or screeching are common AC noises to be aware of. These sounds may indicate issues with loose parts, worn-out components, or debris lodged in the system. Addressing these problems as soon as possible can help avoid future damage and expensive AC repair in Boca Raton.https://preview.redd.it/na6joruagp0d1.jpg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=011bb41b1f64bb761b3cd01c2c060793f0224070 4. Regular CyclingThe phenomena known as "short cycling," in which your air conditioner turns on and off repeatedly, could be an indication of a number of problems, such as an oversized unit, a malfunctioning thermostat, or restricted ventilation. In addition to causing needless stress to your air conditioning system, short cycling shortens its lifespan and reduces its effectiveness. An expert HVAC technician can identify the underlying cause of the issue and suggest the necessary AC Repair in Boca Raton.5. Bad ScentsIf your air vents are giving out foul scents, your HVAC system may be harboring bacteria, mold, or mildew. These impurities not only lower the quality of the air indoors, but they also might be signs of moisture problems with your air conditioner. Odors that bother you and your family should be addressed right away with professional cleaning and repair services because ignoring them can cause health issues.If your Air Conditioner needs a repair in Boca Raton, you may reach out to AC Cool Air. Your one-stop shop for all your AC repairs and additional services. Visit them today. ConclusionAvoid being hot under the collar in Boca Raton due to AC issues. You may prevent problems from getting worse by being aware of the warning signals that your AC needs to be repaired. The effectiveness of your air conditioner may be restored, and you can stay cool and comfortable all summer long with timely attention from a trained HVAC professional, regardless of the issue—weak airflow, heated air, unusual noises, frequent cycling, or bad odors. Always remember to fix your comfort rather than worrying about it! |
2024.05.16 04:56 Chonkywatersausage D responded to my “you suck” video - target parking lot part 2
 | June 15th 2023 she had taken some heat and deactivated her account and was using her back up to watch my content. I’m gonna be honest I don’t remember what I did, maybe it was a screen recording and then I shared my story. I don’t really remember exactly. I did record that previous video and shared it bc it was something I dealt with and her DIL did too. I think this is the video she saw her DIL comment on of mine and it’s why she flipped. The harassment that ensued after this was crazy and at first I just played along but then it got crazier and she would make 4-5 videos about me in a row and then she wrote a blog and then she would make videos talking about my content I would share that had nothing to do with her and she would say “this is about me I know it is”, then she would block me and unblock stitch a video and talk shit then block me again. Then she started out right lying about my content and situation. I got threats from now I think was her on a fake account. People would message me and say she was manic and freaking out. That video is next. I obviously don’t have all of them but I did have a few sent to me and used an alt account to watch bc it was getting a little scary. submitted by Chonkywatersausage to estrangedtoempowered [link] [comments] She wants to call me a flying monkey so I’ll share my part in this circus. I definitely engaged when I shouldn’t have. I didn’t really know what I had done until I was told by her DIL and as soon as she saw that comment from her she lost it. So I stopped making videos about her at all. I didn’t remove the videos I had made and that made her MAD! I think she obsessed about the comments bc many of my videos not just the ones with her had tons of interaction and I left all comments. |
2024.05.16 03:50 BellaBubs2345 Seeking Advice: 8Yr Old HVAC System Leaking - Balancing Repair/Replacement Options and Costs with Health Concerns Re: Refrigerant
Hi all -
Looking to get some thoughts on options for our system, where we have a leak and are trying to weigh potential next steps to learn more about and solve the issue, against the 'get this handled ASAP so you are not inhaling refrigerant!' argument that Google spits out. Background info below, looking for 'how I would handle this as a tech' and/or 'here's why I am/am not concerned about the health impact' responses. Oh, and sorry in advance for both the long post and 'dumb' terminology I'll be using - just getting up to and past the 'explain it to me like I'm 5' stage :) I'll throw a TLDR at the end. Oh, and feel free to poke fun or call out our lack of knowledge and any poor decisions. I won't take offense to any sort of 'you're not thinking about this correctly' responses. Thanks!
We live in a condo with a loft and have an air handler upstairs that also uses hot water for heating. Apparently these are pretty much all made by First Co. System is 2 ton and was installed for the prior owner around 8 years ago. To my understanding we are out of warranty (combination of time and new owner). Per a picture of the condenser the unit uses R410A and would have been factory charged to 3.87 LBS. The condenser sits nearly directly on 'top' of our unit - so no measurement of pipe lengths offhand, but shouldn't be a long run.
We've been juuuust a bit remiss on annual maintenance, and are ('were' - going to do better in the future) a bit slow to change the filter...but we've never noticed any issue with the system cooling our unit. About a month ago we heard an odd sound coming out of the in-unit component and found ice on the coil. Turned it off and haven't run it since, except for during tech visits. First tech comes out on a 60-ish degree day, tells us he thinks the system is low but suggests remeasuring later. On return (much warmer day; 80ish), numbers are still low, tech estimates we're down maybe 1.5-2 LBS, recommends replacing the entire system (and therefore strongly suggests we don't bother with a leak test). Also advises that our capacitor is low, but, again, don't spend on it, just replace everything. Since we don't have past test readouts (i.e. prior year maintenance), it seems we can't be sure if this has been a slow leak going on for years or something more rapid based on a recent failure...?
Brought out a tech from a second company (it was a cooler day and had rained/was still drizzling), he ran an electronic leak test at the evaporator coil (we haven't done any sort of dye testing at this time) and noted that there were measurable values at the coil (but didn't tell us what the #s were), but the system seemed 'dry' - no noticeable oil spills, etc. He looked at the condenser too; kind of got a 'it looks fine, but can't say for sure given the rain we just had' - I presume that meant he couldn't be sure if there was oil at the rooftop portion?
(Side Question Here: since we aren't sure if we have a 'slow' or 'rapid' leak, would the lack of oil in the handler (and potentially the condenser) support a hope/conclusion that the leak may be more of a pinhole?)
Tech's recommendation: Charge the system using refrigerant containing an additive that could technically (but zero promise) fill a pinhole leak, then use the system normally to see if there are any performance issues. Test again 1-2 years from now to see how we're doing. If we do this once or twice we could potentially get enough service life to the point where replacing the entire system is more reasonable based on typical lifespan. We like that idea from a cost perspective, though might want an earlier test since, uh, refrigerant leak bad? We also realize there's a time-frame in which it could be 'too soon' to test, given differences in air temp, etc. that could impact the #s.
OPTIONS:
1: Replace the whole system. Cost would be somewhere in the $12K range, and I guess technically we would want to first confirm that the issue isn't in the pipes between the handler and condenser...Would a dye test verify that? Building is about 20yrs old, FWIW.
2: Replace the evaporator coil. Cost would be in the $4K range. I presume (?) that this is 95%+ going to solve the leak issue, though it would obviously suck if the leak was elsewhere. What test(s), if any, should we do before going this route?
3: Charge the system and 'wait and see'. Probably in the $500 range, plus more if we replace the capacitor. Obviously we'd be continuing to use a system with a leak, so this only ends up making sense if the leak was so small that we could get multiple years (re-charge as needed) out of the current system. And hey, maybe the additive solves it?
4: Not discussed, but potential to charge the system (with or without the additive) and add some sort of dye that would enable a more complete/thorough leak test afterwards? I hear that's a thing, if I understand correctly...?
QUESTIONS:
*As mentioned earlier, would lack of oil in the handler (and possibly condenser too) be a solid indicator of a much more 'minor' leak in the system?
*If we did option #3 (or #4), how long should we wait to re-test? We'd want to wait long enough that any loss would be measurable, but are trying to balance that against any health concerns.
*Which brings me to the most important question: uh, how big are these health concerns? I presume we're helped by using R410A rather than R22? And if we're down, say, 2 pounds of refrigerant and the system wasn't charged to even 4 pounds is that even a lot? Is there a good source of information on this that splits the difference between 'I've seen much worse leaks' and 'you're going to die!!!!'? Etc.
*Anything else we should factor into our considerations?
TLDR:
8yr old R410A system is leaking. Not sure how 'big' the leak is. Concerned over health risks associated with refrigerant leaks, but also want to be 'logical' in how to approach this. What tests/'minor' repairs should we consider, or should we bite the bullet for a larger cost that we "know" won't leak?
Thanks for any thoughts!
Edit: Formatting (I think :))
submitted by BellaBubs2345 to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
Looking to get some thoughts on options for our system, where we have a leak and are trying to weigh potential next steps to learn more about and solve the issue, against the 'get this handled ASAP so you are not inhaling refrigerant!' argument that Google spits out. Background info below, looking for 'how I would handle this as a tech' and/or 'here's why I am/am not concerned about the health impact' responses. Oh, and sorry in advance for both the long post and 'dumb' terminology I'll be using - just getting up to and past the 'explain it to me like I'm 5' stage :) I'll throw a TLDR at the end. Oh, and feel free to poke fun or call out our lack of knowledge and any poor decisions. I won't take offense to any sort of 'you're not thinking about this correctly' responses. Thanks!
We live in a condo with a loft and have an air handler upstairs that also uses hot water for heating. Apparently these are pretty much all made by First Co. System is 2 ton and was installed for the prior owner around 8 years ago. To my understanding we are out of warranty (combination of time and new owner). Per a picture of the condenser the unit uses R410A and would have been factory charged to 3.87 LBS. The condenser sits nearly directly on 'top' of our unit - so no measurement of pipe lengths offhand, but shouldn't be a long run.
We've been juuuust a bit remiss on annual maintenance, and are ('were' - going to do better in the future) a bit slow to change the filter...but we've never noticed any issue with the system cooling our unit. About a month ago we heard an odd sound coming out of the in-unit component and found ice on the coil. Turned it off and haven't run it since, except for during tech visits. First tech comes out on a 60-ish degree day, tells us he thinks the system is low but suggests remeasuring later. On return (much warmer day; 80ish), numbers are still low, tech estimates we're down maybe 1.5-2 LBS, recommends replacing the entire system (and therefore strongly suggests we don't bother with a leak test). Also advises that our capacitor is low, but, again, don't spend on it, just replace everything. Since we don't have past test readouts (i.e. prior year maintenance), it seems we can't be sure if this has been a slow leak going on for years or something more rapid based on a recent failure...?
Brought out a tech from a second company (it was a cooler day and had rained/was still drizzling), he ran an electronic leak test at the evaporator coil (we haven't done any sort of dye testing at this time) and noted that there were measurable values at the coil (but didn't tell us what the #s were), but the system seemed 'dry' - no noticeable oil spills, etc. He looked at the condenser too; kind of got a 'it looks fine, but can't say for sure given the rain we just had' - I presume that meant he couldn't be sure if there was oil at the rooftop portion?
(Side Question Here: since we aren't sure if we have a 'slow' or 'rapid' leak, would the lack of oil in the handler (and potentially the condenser) support a hope/conclusion that the leak may be more of a pinhole?)
Tech's recommendation: Charge the system using refrigerant containing an additive that could technically (but zero promise) fill a pinhole leak, then use the system normally to see if there are any performance issues. Test again 1-2 years from now to see how we're doing. If we do this once or twice we could potentially get enough service life to the point where replacing the entire system is more reasonable based on typical lifespan. We like that idea from a cost perspective, though might want an earlier test since, uh, refrigerant leak bad? We also realize there's a time-frame in which it could be 'too soon' to test, given differences in air temp, etc. that could impact the #s.
OPTIONS:
1: Replace the whole system. Cost would be somewhere in the $12K range, and I guess technically we would want to first confirm that the issue isn't in the pipes between the handler and condenser...Would a dye test verify that? Building is about 20yrs old, FWIW.
2: Replace the evaporator coil. Cost would be in the $4K range. I presume (?) that this is 95%+ going to solve the leak issue, though it would obviously suck if the leak was elsewhere. What test(s), if any, should we do before going this route?
3: Charge the system and 'wait and see'. Probably in the $500 range, plus more if we replace the capacitor. Obviously we'd be continuing to use a system with a leak, so this only ends up making sense if the leak was so small that we could get multiple years (re-charge as needed) out of the current system. And hey, maybe the additive solves it?
4: Not discussed, but potential to charge the system (with or without the additive) and add some sort of dye that would enable a more complete/thorough leak test afterwards? I hear that's a thing, if I understand correctly...?
QUESTIONS:
*As mentioned earlier, would lack of oil in the handler (and possibly condenser too) be a solid indicator of a much more 'minor' leak in the system?
*If we did option #3 (or #4), how long should we wait to re-test? We'd want to wait long enough that any loss would be measurable, but are trying to balance that against any health concerns.
*Which brings me to the most important question: uh, how big are these health concerns? I presume we're helped by using R410A rather than R22? And if we're down, say, 2 pounds of refrigerant and the system wasn't charged to even 4 pounds is that even a lot? Is there a good source of information on this that splits the difference between 'I've seen much worse leaks' and 'you're going to die!!!!'? Etc.
*Anything else we should factor into our considerations?
TLDR:
8yr old R410A system is leaking. Not sure how 'big' the leak is. Concerned over health risks associated with refrigerant leaks, but also want to be 'logical' in how to approach this. What tests/'minor' repairs should we consider, or should we bite the bullet for a larger cost that we "know" won't leak?
Thanks for any thoughts!
Edit: Formatting (I think :))
2024.05.16 02:30 phatsystem Hard time deciding between models from different contractors
Seeking advice. I'm debating between 2 companies for a new heat pump install, replacing an old gas furnace with no A/C. Company 1 has 2 options that we're considering, company 2 has 1 option we're consdiering. Both have more options but these fall into the price point and form factor we're looking for given the space.
Each option from 1 to 3 steps up about $2k in price. Otherwise all other items seem roughly equivalent. I'm in coastal Nor Cal where extreme ends of temp are 20F to 100F, but almost never below 25F and never above 90F. House is a 2 story, 1680sq ft home, with fairly recent double pane windows and standard dry walled walls.
Trying to figure out if hyper heat is worth it in option 3, if we go with 1 or 2, if the 19 SEER and the series of unit is worth the extra $2k. Also if there are any notable differences in performance. Any differences in quality/longevity / maintenance is also a consideration, especially because option 3 also has 2 more years of warranty due to company 2 being a diamond Mitsubishi partner.
The air handlers are also different model numbers, though not sure how much that plays into any decision.
Option 1 / Company 1 $21k: 16 SEER EFFICIENCY MITSUBISHI “S” SERIES HEAT PUMP AND AIR HANDLER
S-Series 36K SUZ Modulating Heat Pump / S-Series 36K SVZ Modulating Airhandler
P-Series 36K PUZ Modulating Heat Pump / P-Series 36K PVA Modulating Airhandler
HP 42"Wx15"Dx53"H
Thanks a whole lot in advance.
submitted by phatsystem to heatpumps [link] [comments]
Each option from 1 to 3 steps up about $2k in price. Otherwise all other items seem roughly equivalent. I'm in coastal Nor Cal where extreme ends of temp are 20F to 100F, but almost never below 25F and never above 90F. House is a 2 story, 1680sq ft home, with fairly recent double pane windows and standard dry walled walls.
Trying to figure out if hyper heat is worth it in option 3, if we go with 1 or 2, if the 19 SEER and the series of unit is worth the extra $2k. Also if there are any notable differences in performance. Any differences in quality/longevity / maintenance is also a consideration, especially because option 3 also has 2 more years of warranty due to company 2 being a diamond Mitsubishi partner.
The air handlers are also different model numbers, though not sure how much that plays into any decision.
Option 1 / Company 1 $21k: 16 SEER EFFICIENCY MITSUBISHI “S” SERIES HEAT PUMP AND AIR HANDLER
S-Series 36K SUZ Modulating Heat Pump / S-Series 36K SVZ Modulating Airhandler
- W x D x H - 33" x 13" x 34.5"
- 20 Amp 220V Breaker Required
- 55 dBs Max Sound Level
- Vapor: 5/8" Liquid 3/8" Max Length: 100'
- Variable speed INVERTER-driven compressor
- Innovative Joint Lap DC Motor leads to high efficiency and reliability
- Pulse Amplitude Modulation technology
P-Series 36K PUZ Modulating Heat Pump / P-Series 36K PVA Modulating Airhandler
- W x D x H - 41.5" x 13" x 53"
- 30 Amp 220V Breaker Required
- 53 dBs Max Sound Level
- Vapor: 5/8" Liquid 3/8" Max Length: 165'
- Variable speed INVERTER-driven compressor
- Superior energy and operational efficiency
- Seacoast protection
HP 42"Wx15"Dx53"H
Thanks a whole lot in advance.
2024.05.16 01:27 OwlJealous717 Replace Furnace with AC or wait
My 17 year old Trane AC has died and Im planning on replacing with a heat pump but debating if I should replace my trane variable speed oil furnace as well. Since the ecm and the burner are 17 years old should I just go ahead and replace them as well or just wait and replace those later?
submitted by OwlJealous717 to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
2024.05.16 01:23 Wan_Haole_Faka How much of this industry can be learned in an educational program compared to learning in the field? Is one better than the other?
I'm a 3rd year apprentice service plumber and am thinking about switching to a different trade. I'm considering refrigeration and boiler maintenance/install.
I think what draws me to this trade is the fact that you can work alone (how soon?), the general challenges of diagnosing and fixing something and I'm wondering how decent the money is as well.
I'm frankly getting a little bored with plumbing. I understand the systems that I work on. I just started with a new company and they unfortunately decided to pair me with someone who has less than half my experience and he's the "technician". So they pay me $22/hr. to train him, meanwhile I'm not building skills and am bored out of my mind. I could always memorize which shower cartridges go with what valve, but I think it would be wiser to gain a good understanding of the refrigeration cycle (which I know I can do) and apply that to my skillset.
This is the second plumbing company I've worked for and I've found it hard to get good training past a certain point. I learned a lot by making mistakes. I've found that the veteran guys will get put together because they can finish jobs faster and the newer guys seem to work together.
I do a lot of diagnostics on water heaters and sewage ejector pumps, so I know how to use a multimeter in a basic way. I went to a brief trade school for service plumbing and it helped me immensely. A lot of folks say that field experience is the only way, but I disagree. I believe that some learning is better suited to the classroom or living room. Something about being graded was a huge motivator for me to memorize wiring diagrams, troubleshooting steps, tolerances, whatever.
I could test for my license in NC immediately if I wanted to, or if I wanted to test for a national journeyman's, I could have it in 3 years. I'm not attached to being licensed in anything, I just want to earn a good income. I'd go back to school for an intensive program if it's worth it.
I'm 33 and single, so I'd be good with some late/on call work, but it's not something I'd like to make a habit of long-term.
Being in the South, I've never been involved with a labor union, but I'd be curious to know if there are any purely refrigeration unions. Would that just go along with pipefitting/HVAC?
I think it would also help me if I knew whether there were companies hiring directly from reefer programs and if so, would they guarantee a certain pay floor with a good grade?
I appreciate any tips you all have. Thanks!
submitted by Wan_Haole_Faka to refrigeration [link] [comments]
I think what draws me to this trade is the fact that you can work alone (how soon?), the general challenges of diagnosing and fixing something and I'm wondering how decent the money is as well.
I'm frankly getting a little bored with plumbing. I understand the systems that I work on. I just started with a new company and they unfortunately decided to pair me with someone who has less than half my experience and he's the "technician". So they pay me $22/hr. to train him, meanwhile I'm not building skills and am bored out of my mind. I could always memorize which shower cartridges go with what valve, but I think it would be wiser to gain a good understanding of the refrigeration cycle (which I know I can do) and apply that to my skillset.
This is the second plumbing company I've worked for and I've found it hard to get good training past a certain point. I learned a lot by making mistakes. I've found that the veteran guys will get put together because they can finish jobs faster and the newer guys seem to work together.
I do a lot of diagnostics on water heaters and sewage ejector pumps, so I know how to use a multimeter in a basic way. I went to a brief trade school for service plumbing and it helped me immensely. A lot of folks say that field experience is the only way, but I disagree. I believe that some learning is better suited to the classroom or living room. Something about being graded was a huge motivator for me to memorize wiring diagrams, troubleshooting steps, tolerances, whatever.
I could test for my license in NC immediately if I wanted to, or if I wanted to test for a national journeyman's, I could have it in 3 years. I'm not attached to being licensed in anything, I just want to earn a good income. I'd go back to school for an intensive program if it's worth it.
I'm 33 and single, so I'd be good with some late/on call work, but it's not something I'd like to make a habit of long-term.
Being in the South, I've never been involved with a labor union, but I'd be curious to know if there are any purely refrigeration unions. Would that just go along with pipefitting/HVAC?
I think it would also help me if I knew whether there were companies hiring directly from reefer programs and if so, would they guarantee a certain pay floor with a good grade?
I appreciate any tips you all have. Thanks!
2024.05.16 01:02 Wrath421 PC immediately turns off
Hello everyone. Avid PC builder and gamer here. And boy do I have a weird one for you. I solved the problem before ever posting this. I am not looking for help. On the contrary. I'm hoping this helps someone else in the future.
Specs
ASUS 7690-A wifi D4
12900k
32GB of corsair vengeance rgb 3600
Gigabyte RTX 4090
Corsair hx1200i
On top of that there are 4 m.2 drives, 2 ssd drives, 2 mechanical drives, 16 corsair fans, 3 led controllers, 12 led strips, 3 commander pros, 2 water pumps, 3 reservoirs and 4 radiators (2x560 1x140 and 1x280)
Out of no where, when I press the power button, all of my million lights and fans turn on for around a tenth of a second and then the PC shuts back off. Just a quick flash and then nothing. i can press the button 2 or 3 times and the same thing happens. Occasionally after 5 or so tries it will turn on. Alternatively, i can unplug then replug the PC or flip the switch on the power supply off and then on. After this the PC starts immediately every time. At this point i can put 900 watts through it no problem. This all started about a week ago. Prior to that this was not a problem. Also, this ONLY happened on a cold boot. Once the PC was turned on successfully i could turn it on and off a dozen times without issue.
My first thought was bad cap. And my motherboard, an ASUS Z690-A wifi D4 has been full of gremlins since day 1 (and their customer support was so bad i never got to RMA it). So i figured the likelihood breakdown of the problem was like 40% power supply, 50% MoBo 8% RAM and 2% CPU.
After running some of the most basic troubleshooting including reseating all ram and then going down to 1 stick I eliminated most other possibilities. Which still left me with Power supply, MoBo and CPU as a possibility. My wife's PC has a 1k watt power supply so i WAS going to swap it with mine to see if the problem persisted, but the gremlin showed itself before that was necessary.
This brings us to the reason i wrote this
TPM
Thats right. TPM (PCC in asus bios i think).
I had to turn this on about a month or 2 ago because (reasons i can't remember) and just forgot about it. But during my troubleshooting I started to change bios settings back to default 1 by 1. When i turned off the TPM (pcc) the PC shut down on the spot. It had NEVER done that before. Then it would not start up again. I had to unplug the power supply and replug it in order to get the PC to start again. Then, it started up fine and has not shown the issue since.
The problem was pretty persistent but also somewhat intermittent so i am not 100% sure this problem is solved for good, but this was happening multiple times a day every day for a week and it has happened zero times in the past 5 days so I'm pretty hopeful. Prior to this I would never think to suggest turning off TPM when helping someone troubleshoot. I would guess a bad cap, resistor or solder joint on the TPM circuit but i thought TPM 2.0 was in the mobo chipset itself so im not sure if that holds water. It's just my internal brain logic.
Either way i hope this helps save SOMEONE from frustration or buying unnecessary parts. Or worse yet, dealing with ASUS customer support
submitted by Wrath421 to pchelp [link] [comments]
Specs
ASUS 7690-A wifi D4
12900k
32GB of corsair vengeance rgb 3600
Gigabyte RTX 4090
Corsair hx1200i
On top of that there are 4 m.2 drives, 2 ssd drives, 2 mechanical drives, 16 corsair fans, 3 led controllers, 12 led strips, 3 commander pros, 2 water pumps, 3 reservoirs and 4 radiators (2x560 1x140 and 1x280)
Out of no where, when I press the power button, all of my million lights and fans turn on for around a tenth of a second and then the PC shuts back off. Just a quick flash and then nothing. i can press the button 2 or 3 times and the same thing happens. Occasionally after 5 or so tries it will turn on. Alternatively, i can unplug then replug the PC or flip the switch on the power supply off and then on. After this the PC starts immediately every time. At this point i can put 900 watts through it no problem. This all started about a week ago. Prior to that this was not a problem. Also, this ONLY happened on a cold boot. Once the PC was turned on successfully i could turn it on and off a dozen times without issue.
My first thought was bad cap. And my motherboard, an ASUS Z690-A wifi D4 has been full of gremlins since day 1 (and their customer support was so bad i never got to RMA it). So i figured the likelihood breakdown of the problem was like 40% power supply, 50% MoBo 8% RAM and 2% CPU.
After running some of the most basic troubleshooting including reseating all ram and then going down to 1 stick I eliminated most other possibilities. Which still left me with Power supply, MoBo and CPU as a possibility. My wife's PC has a 1k watt power supply so i WAS going to swap it with mine to see if the problem persisted, but the gremlin showed itself before that was necessary.
This brings us to the reason i wrote this
TPM
Thats right. TPM (PCC in asus bios i think).
I had to turn this on about a month or 2 ago because (reasons i can't remember) and just forgot about it. But during my troubleshooting I started to change bios settings back to default 1 by 1. When i turned off the TPM (pcc) the PC shut down on the spot. It had NEVER done that before. Then it would not start up again. I had to unplug the power supply and replug it in order to get the PC to start again. Then, it started up fine and has not shown the issue since.
The problem was pretty persistent but also somewhat intermittent so i am not 100% sure this problem is solved for good, but this was happening multiple times a day every day for a week and it has happened zero times in the past 5 days so I'm pretty hopeful. Prior to this I would never think to suggest turning off TPM when helping someone troubleshoot. I would guess a bad cap, resistor or solder joint on the TPM circuit but i thought TPM 2.0 was in the mobo chipset itself so im not sure if that holds water. It's just my internal brain logic.
Either way i hope this helps save SOMEONE from frustration or buying unnecessary parts. Or worse yet, dealing with ASUS customer support
2024.05.16 00:48 our-times-up Worried about sizing for my house 4 ton?
Hi my house is a 100 year old 2450 sq feet , 4 square farmhouse with blown insulation (it's there but imperfect...fallen in places over the years I know) in the walls and spray foam attic.
It doesn't leak like a sieve but in the driving country wind it does have air leakage for sure. Also, I'm sure, in situations where the house is dramatically different in temp than outside.
Previously the duct also connected to a breezeway but I blocked that duct off at the split bc that added 350 squ feet.
I just had a 4 ton 16seer2 trane dual fuel (propane) heat pump installed. I don't recall anyway discussion about sizing. I think they asked if the old system did ok cooling and heating and I do think it did it was 22 years old.
Being in central illinois, it seems the tonnage may be low tho? Previously I had a 4 ton lennox compressor and it did ok. We usually run ac at 77 or 78 and heat at 63.
submitted by our-times-up to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
It doesn't leak like a sieve but in the driving country wind it does have air leakage for sure. Also, I'm sure, in situations where the house is dramatically different in temp than outside.
Previously the duct also connected to a breezeway but I blocked that duct off at the split bc that added 350 squ feet.
I just had a 4 ton 16seer2 trane dual fuel (propane) heat pump installed. I don't recall anyway discussion about sizing. I think they asked if the old system did ok cooling and heating and I do think it did it was 22 years old.
Being in central illinois, it seems the tonnage may be low tho? Previously I had a 4 ton lennox compressor and it did ok. We usually run ac at 77 or 78 and heat at 63.
2024.05.16 00:17 WorriedLawfulness718 3 amp fuse blown
Home owner here with a 3 ton Air Quest packaged heat pump that is about 18 months old. Unit stopped working and I quickly found the 3 amp low voltage fuse blown. So I started troubleshooting and I have eliminated the thermostat and thermostat wire as the issue. i jumped the red and yellow wire and the fuse blew. I have determined that the short is on the Y and O internal wires. Any advice?
submitted by WorriedLawfulness718 to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
2024.05.15 23:52 noctemct help
So, we recently discovered that our 15 year old, oil-fired Dunkirk steam boiler is cracked and in need of replacing. I'm acquiring quotes from various contractors in the area but all of this is kind of overwhelming, since they all seem to be interested in selling me something different.
It's a fairly small house, around 1300sq ft, in central CT.
2 BR and most of our 'living' is on the on the 1st floor, and the 2nd floor is basically roughly finished attic space, previous owners were using it as a bedroom and there's a half bath up there as well. We use it as a family room, but it's basically unusable in the summer - the windows are too small for an A/C unit (and I refuse to get a portable AC) and there's just no air movement up there, and in the winter it takes forever to heat up - the pipe feeding that 2nd floor radiator is both undersized (3/4") and copper for some reason. Every single radiator valve (not vent, I replaced those) in the house also needs replacing, some of the knobs have disintegrated and they all leak water when the system is running at full-tilt.
Since the boiler needs to get replaced anyway, I've been looking into alternatives as well, such as mini splits and heat pumps. I definitely like the idea, but electric rates in CT are a little...high. If I had solar with a nice big battery backup, this would be a no brainer, but we haven't gotten solar installed yet and no plans to do so for at least another 5-10 years.
Every contractor that comes in seems to send me in a slightly different direction, and I'm just not sure what's best. 1 gave me an option of ripping it all out, switching to forced hot water & new baseboard heaters in place of the radiators. Another suggested a heat pump feeding a ducted air handler in the basement and cutting registers in the floor for forced hot air. Another suggested dual fuel, keeping a new steam boiler as well as supplementing with mini-splits, though that one does seem cost prohibitive.
So far, the pricing I've gotten has been anywhere from 8-9k for a straight oil burning replacement, up to 15k+ for a gas conversion (we have gas in the house already for our water heater, but the chimney isn't lined so we'd need to do that), $20k for the gas forced hot water, and $23K+ for the heat pump solution since we'd also need to upgrade to a 200a electrical service.
None of it seems terribly unreasonable as far as pricing goes, that's not really my complaint or question, more just that I'm not sure what the best option would be for a house this size in this climate, since there seems to be quite a few options these days. Back to the Googles for more research!
submitted by noctemct to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
It's a fairly small house, around 1300sq ft, in central CT.
2 BR and most of our 'living' is on the on the 1st floor, and the 2nd floor is basically roughly finished attic space, previous owners were using it as a bedroom and there's a half bath up there as well. We use it as a family room, but it's basically unusable in the summer - the windows are too small for an A/C unit (and I refuse to get a portable AC) and there's just no air movement up there, and in the winter it takes forever to heat up - the pipe feeding that 2nd floor radiator is both undersized (3/4") and copper for some reason. Every single radiator valve (not vent, I replaced those) in the house also needs replacing, some of the knobs have disintegrated and they all leak water when the system is running at full-tilt.
Since the boiler needs to get replaced anyway, I've been looking into alternatives as well, such as mini splits and heat pumps. I definitely like the idea, but electric rates in CT are a little...high. If I had solar with a nice big battery backup, this would be a no brainer, but we haven't gotten solar installed yet and no plans to do so for at least another 5-10 years.
Every contractor that comes in seems to send me in a slightly different direction, and I'm just not sure what's best. 1 gave me an option of ripping it all out, switching to forced hot water & new baseboard heaters in place of the radiators. Another suggested a heat pump feeding a ducted air handler in the basement and cutting registers in the floor for forced hot air. Another suggested dual fuel, keeping a new steam boiler as well as supplementing with mini-splits, though that one does seem cost prohibitive.
So far, the pricing I've gotten has been anywhere from 8-9k for a straight oil burning replacement, up to 15k+ for a gas conversion (we have gas in the house already for our water heater, but the chimney isn't lined so we'd need to do that), $20k for the gas forced hot water, and $23K+ for the heat pump solution since we'd also need to upgrade to a 200a electrical service.
None of it seems terribly unreasonable as far as pricing goes, that's not really my complaint or question, more just that I'm not sure what the best option would be for a house this size in this climate, since there seems to be quite a few options these days. Back to the Googles for more research!
2024.05.15 23:15 RookBreakdown Simplest ways to Win (Hard,default party) as each Faith?
Greetings retro computer game fans! I've been a fan of tactical strategy games since I was a boy, unfortunately I'm still not especially strategic :(. For one, I tend to overthink things and end up with overly elaborate esoteric plans with way too many steps that can go wrong. So for the sake of straightforward efficacy I thought I'd give my thoughts on the simplest ways to beat Balkoth and compare notes with anyone who wants to discuss. Winning without cheating that is, cause with them the answer would always be use the 'zilla' cheat to throw endless dragons at Balkoth until he's dead!
Earth: War Lord, research Entangle ASAP and give enough experience to your Mage Tower to train Level 2 Magicians, so they have the 4 mana to cast Entangle without artifacts. Level up your Dwarf Lord ASAP and give as much experience to your Earth barracks as you can. Death has a lot of deadly spells (go figure lol) but no crowd control and Earth units aren't slowed by swamp. Massed leveled up dwarf infantry should be able to kill Balkoth so long as he immobilized by Entangle and thus unable to flee. The only major downside with this strategy is it leaves you with nothing that hard counters Dark Javelins, which do a ton of ranged damage. The only soft counter is using the Riders Earth cavalry to close distance faster with their quick combat speed.
Air: Thief Lord, research Headwind and mass Fairy Slingers. Level up your Fairy Slingers using your Thief Lord, for 2700 Experience they'll max out their Range Attack at 12 which means Aimed Missile will hit for 12*1.5=18 which can hurt even a max Level Balkoth. Headwind will prevent Balkoth from fleeing effectively and is much easier to both research and cast than Stun.
Life: Thief Lord, Mass leveled up Elven Archers can shoot down Balkoth and anything else he can reasonably get if you attack with some haste. Death lacks multi-target damage spells, which are the hardest counter to Elven Archers, so you'll find strength in numbers. Research Create Plains to generate meadow terrain that will slow down Death and there's no chance Balkoth will successfully flee.
Fire: Sorceress Lord, get your Mage Tower to Level 2 to produce Demons ASAP. Research Lava Flow to produce terrain that will slow down almost all your enemies, this is the closest thing to a movement control spell Fire magic offers. Research Frenzy, Immolation, and Flame Sword as these are all quick to research and can be combined for a massive 10+ Attack bonus if cast on the same unit. Demons have a lot of HP and 50% Death magic Resist so long as you can get them to attack Balkoth before he can get his one-hit-kill spell Lost Soul theres little chance he'll kill them with magic. Buffed Demons will do damage very quickly if you order them into melee and should have no problem against anything except perhaps massed Dark Javelins. If you're struggling with Javelins you can research Heat Shield to increase your Demon's already significant Missile Resist and Defense stats or simply kill them off with Fire's numerous damage spells. If you want to be even faster and more aggressive you could attack Balkoth with Fire Elementals from a Level 1 Tower, they have practically as much Attack as a Demon, but there's a good chance Balkoth will kill several of them with spells since the Elementals have 18 HP vs the Demon's 46.
Water: Priestess Lord, research Attack spells up to Freeze which should also give you Blood Lust and Quicksilver and Rust. Get Water Elementals to gank Balkoth when he unfreezes with the help of those stat spells too.
submitted by RookBreakdown to LoMSE [link] [comments]
Earth: War Lord, research Entangle ASAP and give enough experience to your Mage Tower to train Level 2 Magicians, so they have the 4 mana to cast Entangle without artifacts. Level up your Dwarf Lord ASAP and give as much experience to your Earth barracks as you can. Death has a lot of deadly spells (go figure lol) but no crowd control and Earth units aren't slowed by swamp. Massed leveled up dwarf infantry should be able to kill Balkoth so long as he immobilized by Entangle and thus unable to flee. The only major downside with this strategy is it leaves you with nothing that hard counters Dark Javelins, which do a ton of ranged damage. The only soft counter is using the Riders Earth cavalry to close distance faster with their quick combat speed.
Air: Thief Lord, research Headwind and mass Fairy Slingers. Level up your Fairy Slingers using your Thief Lord, for 2700 Experience they'll max out their Range Attack at 12 which means Aimed Missile will hit for 12*1.5=18 which can hurt even a max Level Balkoth. Headwind will prevent Balkoth from fleeing effectively and is much easier to both research and cast than Stun.
Life: Thief Lord, Mass leveled up Elven Archers can shoot down Balkoth and anything else he can reasonably get if you attack with some haste. Death lacks multi-target damage spells, which are the hardest counter to Elven Archers, so you'll find strength in numbers. Research Create Plains to generate meadow terrain that will slow down Death and there's no chance Balkoth will successfully flee.
Fire: Sorceress Lord, get your Mage Tower to Level 2 to produce Demons ASAP. Research Lava Flow to produce terrain that will slow down almost all your enemies, this is the closest thing to a movement control spell Fire magic offers. Research Frenzy, Immolation, and Flame Sword as these are all quick to research and can be combined for a massive 10+ Attack bonus if cast on the same unit. Demons have a lot of HP and 50% Death magic Resist so long as you can get them to attack Balkoth before he can get his one-hit-kill spell Lost Soul theres little chance he'll kill them with magic. Buffed Demons will do damage very quickly if you order them into melee and should have no problem against anything except perhaps massed Dark Javelins. If you're struggling with Javelins you can research Heat Shield to increase your Demon's already significant Missile Resist and Defense stats or simply kill them off with Fire's numerous damage spells. If you want to be even faster and more aggressive you could attack Balkoth with Fire Elementals from a Level 1 Tower, they have practically as much Attack as a Demon, but there's a good chance Balkoth will kill several of them with spells since the Elementals have 18 HP vs the Demon's 46.
Water: Priestess Lord, research Attack spells up to Freeze which should also give you Blood Lust and Quicksilver and Rust. Get Water Elementals to gank Balkoth when he unfreezes with the help of those stat spells too.
2024.05.15 22:56 ArticleDesigner9631 Network + Passed
Passed my Network + today with a score of 724
So, I thought I would share my experience with you guys, and maybe what I learned can help someone out with studying or taking their test. First, I want to say that it took me 4 attempts to take it; a lot of this is due to me not changing my study material and just reviewing the same stuff repeatedly, along with other things going on in life. I used the following material to study for the Network +
First, the Professor Messor YouTube video series is used to get a general overview of each topic and to learn some very specific concepts. For example the 7 second subnetting method he teaches I found very useful and the chart he teaches you to use saved me a lot of time on the exam itself.
Second, is the Pearson + ebook version of the CompTIA Network+ N10-008 Cert Guide by Anthony Sequeira, ISBN-13: 978-0-13-744994-1, ISBN-10: 0-13-744994-1. I went through the network fundamentals and network troubleshooting sections twice. I used the book audio for them as it helps me out a ton due to only having one eye, and doing regular reading takes me forever because of it, so audiobooks or ebooks are the way to go for me and probably for others. There are also a bunch of extra resources and practice material or bonus content in the book and on the website that is in the book, which was very helpful for stuff like the port numbers, protocols, and some network troubleshooting things.
Third and probably the most useful for me was the Poekct Prep questions for Network +; when I first started using these, I was only getting maybe 50% correct, and after reading each explanation for each question, I started to understand why and how I was missing various questions. I would suggest going through it a few times to really get the material down; they are very direct and specific questions that really test your knowledge of the subject. I would also suggest doing these or a practice test before you start watching videos or reading to see what kind of questions are asked and what kind of material is on the exam. It will also motivate you to learn because you know what you don't understand.
https://www.pocketprep.com/
The fourth resource that I used was CertBros videos on YouTube. The way he explains things and his diagrams and such is what clicked with me, and I finally started to understand some of the more complex things that I was struggling with, like VLANS, ARP, Binary math, and much more. His whole video series on the CCNA exam is super useful and covers everything that is on Network +.
https://www.youtube.com/@Certbros/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSodBEAJz9Y&list=PLF1hDMPPRqGxpYdo0ctaa7MxfOi9vjs1u
Fith is the Powercert animated video on YouTube; his videos and animations helped me to remember specific things and gave me a new way to remember stuff for some of the harder subjects or topics covered on the exam.
https://www.youtube.com/@PowerCertAnimatedVideos
The sixth resource that I used was the various games or quizzes on Sporcle.com. They helped a lot with learning the port numbers, protocols, and other similar concepts, such as the 802.11 and IEEE standards. Thanks to Beautiful-Employer-6 for the recommendation for the quizzes.
https://www.sporcle.com/games/amcgov/tcpip-ports-comptia-specification-a-network
The seventh resource that I used was Jason Dion's practice test on Udemy; I did find this helpful and what not but after I changed my study material from using just his test and Professor Messer's videos, things started to click with me, I actually understood the material compared to just using those two resources.
The final thing that I am going to mention and say is that if you have a learning disability like me or struggle to take tests, look into the testing accommodations that CompTIA allows and try to get them. If you have a documented learning disability or a physical disability, then it will be super useful. went through the process for it, and it took 10 days or so, they approved my 100-time increase, so I had 3 hours to take the test, which was super nice, and it helped me relax more during the test. It gave me plenty of time to do the multiple choice questions first, flag any that I was unsure of, and then do the PBQs, and then go back to flagged questions. I had like 21 minutes to spare but felt pretty confident about things, so I submitted the test.
Don't give up on yourself, guys. You can do it, even if it takes a couple of tries.
Please feel free to reach out to me for any more questions you may have about my experience
submitted by ArticleDesigner9631 to CompTIA [link] [comments]
So, I thought I would share my experience with you guys, and maybe what I learned can help someone out with studying or taking their test. First, I want to say that it took me 4 attempts to take it; a lot of this is due to me not changing my study material and just reviewing the same stuff repeatedly, along with other things going on in life. I used the following material to study for the Network +
First, the Professor Messor YouTube video series is used to get a general overview of each topic and to learn some very specific concepts. For example the 7 second subnetting method he teaches I found very useful and the chart he teaches you to use saved me a lot of time on the exam itself.
Second, is the Pearson + ebook version of the CompTIA Network+ N10-008 Cert Guide by Anthony Sequeira, ISBN-13: 978-0-13-744994-1, ISBN-10: 0-13-744994-1. I went through the network fundamentals and network troubleshooting sections twice. I used the book audio for them as it helps me out a ton due to only having one eye, and doing regular reading takes me forever because of it, so audiobooks or ebooks are the way to go for me and probably for others. There are also a bunch of extra resources and practice material or bonus content in the book and on the website that is in the book, which was very helpful for stuff like the port numbers, protocols, and some network troubleshooting things.
Third and probably the most useful for me was the Poekct Prep questions for Network +; when I first started using these, I was only getting maybe 50% correct, and after reading each explanation for each question, I started to understand why and how I was missing various questions. I would suggest going through it a few times to really get the material down; they are very direct and specific questions that really test your knowledge of the subject. I would also suggest doing these or a practice test before you start watching videos or reading to see what kind of questions are asked and what kind of material is on the exam. It will also motivate you to learn because you know what you don't understand.
https://www.pocketprep.com/
The fourth resource that I used was CertBros videos on YouTube. The way he explains things and his diagrams and such is what clicked with me, and I finally started to understand some of the more complex things that I was struggling with, like VLANS, ARP, Binary math, and much more. His whole video series on the CCNA exam is super useful and covers everything that is on Network +.
https://www.youtube.com/@Certbros/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSodBEAJz9Y&list=PLF1hDMPPRqGxpYdo0ctaa7MxfOi9vjs1u
Fith is the Powercert animated video on YouTube; his videos and animations helped me to remember specific things and gave me a new way to remember stuff for some of the harder subjects or topics covered on the exam.
https://www.youtube.com/@PowerCertAnimatedVideos
The sixth resource that I used was the various games or quizzes on Sporcle.com. They helped a lot with learning the port numbers, protocols, and other similar concepts, such as the 802.11 and IEEE standards. Thanks to Beautiful-Employer-6 for the recommendation for the quizzes.
https://www.sporcle.com/games/amcgov/tcpip-ports-comptia-specification-a-network
The seventh resource that I used was Jason Dion's practice test on Udemy; I did find this helpful and what not but after I changed my study material from using just his test and Professor Messer's videos, things started to click with me, I actually understood the material compared to just using those two resources.
The final thing that I am going to mention and say is that if you have a learning disability like me or struggle to take tests, look into the testing accommodations that CompTIA allows and try to get them. If you have a documented learning disability or a physical disability, then it will be super useful. went through the process for it, and it took 10 days or so, they approved my 100-time increase, so I had 3 hours to take the test, which was super nice, and it helped me relax more during the test. It gave me plenty of time to do the multiple choice questions first, flag any that I was unsure of, and then do the PBQs, and then go back to flagged questions. I had like 21 minutes to spare but felt pretty confident about things, so I submitted the test.
Don't give up on yourself, guys. You can do it, even if it takes a couple of tries.
Please feel free to reach out to me for any more questions you may have about my experience
2024.05.15 22:49 XxFBGTxX What’s a fair value for this 87
 | Unfortunately I have to sell my pickup soon. Truck was painted in September of 2022 Bumpers are off of a 93, interior is redone with power windows and locks. New radio and speakers, new carpet. I’m missing some trim pieces for the headliner but otherwise it has a factory red interior with black carpet. It has a 360 bored over to a 366 with a cam and intake and long tubes. 4 barrel carb. 4 wheel drive works great. All of the ac components have been replaced besides the refrigerant lines and it blows cold. Trans was rebuilt at the same time as the engine and has a shift kit. Maybe 20 thousand miles since the rebuild, I would estimate the truck has around 200k miles on it. New sprayed in bed liner by a professional. submitted by XxFBGTxX to 1stGenDodges [link] [comments] The only bad things are It has a cracked windshield on the passenger side, but I have a parts truck that will be part of the deal that has a good windshield. It has an exhaust leak that I haven’t investigated Oil pan gasket has a small drip. Something is wrong with the vacuum system in the HVAC box. I can’t get the vents to switch between vent to defrost. But the ac and heat work well. Truck is located near Kansas City MO. What do y’all think a good price Would be? |
2024.05.15 22:40 OriginalSprinkles718 [PS5/PS4] List of 100+ mods with correct LOAD ORDER - Difficult and satisfying survival challenge.
![[PS5/PS4] List of 100+ mods with correct LOAD ORDER - Difficult and satisfying survival challenge.](https://preview.redd.it/1c3xalo2jn0d1.jpeg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=86d35c7323df726ad6eb1d485d858338d952eca9 "[PS5/PS4] List of 100+ mods with correct LOAD ORDER - Difficult and satisfying survival challenge.") | PLEASE READ THE WHOLE POST.This took weeks of picking and testing mods OVERVIEWThis modlist is for people enjoying difficult challenge, exploration, combat, managing settlements and a bit of building. No more bullet sponges, loot/enemy respawns and rambo playstyle! ========== CHANGES ==========Combat, Enemies
Sound, Graphic
Crafting, Modifying
Perks, SPECIAL
Settlements, Building
Locations, Loot
Before you download:
MOD LIST WITH CORECT ORDER:
Additionally after downloading:
You can add/swap some mods if you want:101... Immortal Cats - PS4 - Invincible cats, so you don't lose happiness increase when they die. Add after mod #83 \ 102... [PS4] STS - Extras - Living & Dead - Season Pass Version - You can get extra resources from scraping dead bodies in settlements. Watch out not to scrap someone alive. Place after mod #82. \ 103... Josephine Preset - Nice looking preset number 13 for female character creation. Change hair and other details if you want. Delete after leaving vault111 and saving (if you need mod list space that is). Add after mod #55. \ 104... Faster Positive Affinity For Companions - Removes cooldown between companions liking/hating your actions and gain five times more positive affinity. Swap with mod #91 if you want more cheaty version. \ 105... Silent Main Menu - To mute main menu sound, find duplicate sound slider named 'Master sound' and move it all the way to the left. Add after mod #41. \ 106... Quieter Settlements PS4 - Contraptions DLC - Quieter production lines. I ran out of space on mod list so this and next one are optional. Add after mod #34. \ 107... Quieter Settlements PS4 - Wasteland Workshop - Quieter fusion generators. Add after mod #34. \ 108... [PS4] Simple Settlers (Immortal Edition) - Instead of #33, so generic settlers don't die during settlement attacks. \ 109... Reduced Rubble Etc. - Safely reduces density of unimportant objects by 50-75%. Add after #44 or swap with #45. \ 110... Vrexia's Magical Rings - Add after #57 only if you get poison/perception bug where your PER is shown as (-1). You can offset it by equiping multiple rings from this mod (created at chem bench). Didnt found a better way yet. \ 111... Pip-Boy Flashlight (Brighter) - For a smaller, brighter flashlight swap #96 with #95 and replace #95 with this.Remove, if you want:Stock, ugly Pip-Boy color - #3 \ No tinkering with legendary effects - #5 \ No powerful groups wandering and attacking places - #15 \ Radstags to be less agressive - #17 \ Dont care about building - #20 #21 #22 \ Dont care about decorating settlements - #24 #25 \ Annoying wandering brahmins instead of dogs - #31 \ Cash register sounds when gaining exp - #39 \ Old vanilla dusk and dawn lighting - #49 \ Don't use VATS much - #53 #54 #55 \ Prefer old combat scopes - #64 #65 #66 \ Don't want uncover map perk and will never unlock it - #84 \ Don't have any weapon skins from Creation Club - #90 \ Faster leveling - #92 \ To gain building EXP - #94 \ Start with 7 extra SPECIAL points to distribute - #97 \ Loot and enemies respawn after time - #98 \ Fast travel to take time - #99 \ Days be vanilla length - #100Known issues, bugs, glitches, exploits:Some of those are present in vanilla game. I just mention every problem encountered during testing and not fully fixed. - Ground textures in and around sanctuary flicker black. FIX: Fixes itself. Possibly after short time or reload. - Creature cages cost too much in building menu. NO FIX: Did not found a safe and balanced fix yet, so cages are most likely out of reach, because cost is absurd. - Green chest containing flare gun and 10k flares after exiting vault 111. FIX: Mod dev forgot to delete it. Ignore it or if it bothers you much, remove mod #83, which I don't recommend doing. - Hubby secret basement in Sanctuary. NO FIX: Its up to you if you want to use its content. Just easier difficulty option, but not game breaking. - Hacking rank 4 seems useless or has wrong description. NO FIX: Needs proper check. - Wall turrets sometimes glitches and play sound on repeat. FIX: Re-enter the area or reload save. - Contact frag mines seems to have too low damage. FIX: Just dont craft them. Rest of new explosives should work fine even that it shows low damage values in description. - Perception low, constant (-1) PER in stats because of poison damage/resistance bug. FIX: Add mod #110 and equip perception rings. Dont delete the mod. Cant find safer solution for now. Rings dont take equipment slots. - Action girl perk have only one rank on female character and two on male. NO FIX: Just 25% AP regen loss at high level. Not a big deal. - Bubblegum seems to unintentionally quench thirst a bit and kind vendors give it for free. NO FIX: Free candies. Its better to use them to slow down time. - Incorrect cost to build concrete foundations. FIX: Use mod #20 to add tons of foundations in newly added category Structures-Concrete. - OCDecorator replaces creation club menu. FIX: Items from CC are still available in other building categories. Ignore or delete mod #24 + #25 if you dont care about its function. - Few perk descriptions might be slightly incorrect or missing. NO FIX: Nothing important to worry about. - Three street lights, powered water pump, industrial purifier and subway light have incorrect build costs. NO FIX: These have wrong values, but items like clean sofa or tv are more expensive to build on purpose though. - Pip-boy light wont transfer from first to third person camera view. FIX: Turn flashlight off and on. - Water surface sometimes flash black when moving underwater. NO FIX: Its not very noticable and you don't dive much in FO4 anyway. - Can't use Wattz Consumer Electronics terminal, animation stops. FIX: There is a radroach behind the wall. Kill it by swinging melee, explosives or reenter area. - Flashlight in Vault111 has incorrect beam look/color. FIX: It will fix itself after mods load right after you leave Vault111, dont worry.v1.00 - Initial version.Have fun! |
2024.05.15 22:39 knedle Is it possible to disconnect from city heating?
TL;DR; Looks like city heating is the fastest option to burn lots of money. How can I disconnect from the network?
I moved to the Netherlands two years ago and previously lived in Poland where city heating is the most comfortable and cheapest option. I'm buying a house in Almere and it seems most of the houses are connected to city heating. At first, I thought this was great, but then I've seen what people pay for the city heating and investigated how the prices are calculated. Seems like it's very different from what I'm used to.
I've checked my yearly gas usage in a house I'm renting Den Haag - for 2023 it was 756 m3 (1235,72 euro including all costs and taxes). From that, I calculated how many GJ I would use and rounded it up to 20GJ. I've used the calculator on vattenfall.nl and it showed me I would pay 1727,58 euros per year which is almost 500 more than the gas. Almost half of that is just the fixed costs that do not change no matter if I use the heat or not. Then I checked how much it would cost me to heat the house and the water with a resistance-based boiler (the least efficient one). Converted it to electricity 5424kWh and the calculator on vattenfall.nl showed me it would cost me 1548 euros to heat the house this way. It's more expensive than what I'm currently paying for gas, but still cheaper than city heating. Now let's check the heat pump - I just took a random one from Marktplaats that should be 3x to 4x more efficient than the resistance-based boiler (the efficiency changes based on the temperature outside). I will calculate the worst-case scenario, so 5424kWh / 3 = 1808kWh. The calculator says it will cost me 442 euros per year.
To sum it up everything else (heating with gas, electricity, or heat pump) is cheaper than city heating. If I buy a mid-range heat pump it will cost me around 5000 euros and I will get that money back in around 4 years. On top of that, the house that I'm buying has already enough sun panels to offset most of those 442 euros for the heat pump anyway.
So is it possible to disconnect the house from city heating? Should I just call the Vattenfall before moving in and tell them I don't want to sign the contract?
submitted by knedle to Almere [link] [comments]
I moved to the Netherlands two years ago and previously lived in Poland where city heating is the most comfortable and cheapest option. I'm buying a house in Almere and it seems most of the houses are connected to city heating. At first, I thought this was great, but then I've seen what people pay for the city heating and investigated how the prices are calculated. Seems like it's very different from what I'm used to.
I've checked my yearly gas usage in a house I'm renting Den Haag - for 2023 it was 756 m3 (1235,72 euro including all costs and taxes). From that, I calculated how many GJ I would use and rounded it up to 20GJ. I've used the calculator on vattenfall.nl and it showed me I would pay 1727,58 euros per year which is almost 500 more than the gas. Almost half of that is just the fixed costs that do not change no matter if I use the heat or not. Then I checked how much it would cost me to heat the house and the water with a resistance-based boiler (the least efficient one). Converted it to electricity 5424kWh and the calculator on vattenfall.nl showed me it would cost me 1548 euros to heat the house this way. It's more expensive than what I'm currently paying for gas, but still cheaper than city heating. Now let's check the heat pump - I just took a random one from Marktplaats that should be 3x to 4x more efficient than the resistance-based boiler (the efficiency changes based on the temperature outside). I will calculate the worst-case scenario, so 5424kWh / 3 = 1808kWh. The calculator says it will cost me 442 euros per year.
To sum it up everything else (heating with gas, electricity, or heat pump) is cheaper than city heating. If I buy a mid-range heat pump it will cost me around 5000 euros and I will get that money back in around 4 years. On top of that, the house that I'm buying has already enough sun panels to offset most of those 442 euros for the heat pump anyway.
So is it possible to disconnect the house from city heating? Should I just call the Vattenfall before moving in and tell them I don't want to sign the contract?
2024.05.15 22:34 Neverender26 Moved to a new townhome in FL need advice
My family just moved into a middle unit two story townhome in a building with 4 total homes. The unit is south facing with some shade from morning sun and roughly 1450 square feet.
And right on cue, moving in, the AC handler breaks. Landlord sends his guy out 3 times, the final time the AC tech is able to fix it and we get cooler air blowing.
So now the air is blowing, but from the hours of 2-10pm, the unit runs non-stop, no cycling of any sort, and the temps rise from 76 to 81/82 until the sun sets and the unit can cool back down to the set temp of 76.
Landlord says this is normal, welcome to Florida. But I’ve lived in florida all 35+ years of my life and have never experienced this with an AC that wasn’t dead or dying.
The AC guy comes back out, recharges the outside unit, cleans it very thoroughly and gets the vent temps to drop to roughly 60 F, but later in the day when the sun hits the roof more directly (handler is in the attic crawl space), we’re back up to hitting 80 and air from the vent feels like room temp, and the unit runs nonstop.
Landlord says it’s 103 by the handler, so if it’s pumping out 75 then it’s absolutely perfect, and his units run non stop all afternoon, and this is normal etc etc.
Am I crazy to think that when it’s 91, we should be able to have it 75/76 inside with no issues? Is it normal for an AC unit to run 10-12 hours nonstop to not even keep up with 91 degree outdoor temps?
Edit: if he won’t budge towards replacing the unit, what are some ways we can improve its efficiency short term while not dying as the heat is about to go crazy down here? Am I completely off base here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
submitted by Neverender26 to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
And right on cue, moving in, the AC handler breaks. Landlord sends his guy out 3 times, the final time the AC tech is able to fix it and we get cooler air blowing.
So now the air is blowing, but from the hours of 2-10pm, the unit runs non-stop, no cycling of any sort, and the temps rise from 76 to 81/82 until the sun sets and the unit can cool back down to the set temp of 76.
Landlord says this is normal, welcome to Florida. But I’ve lived in florida all 35+ years of my life and have never experienced this with an AC that wasn’t dead or dying.
The AC guy comes back out, recharges the outside unit, cleans it very thoroughly and gets the vent temps to drop to roughly 60 F, but later in the day when the sun hits the roof more directly (handler is in the attic crawl space), we’re back up to hitting 80 and air from the vent feels like room temp, and the unit runs nonstop.
Landlord says it’s 103 by the handler, so if it’s pumping out 75 then it’s absolutely perfect, and his units run non stop all afternoon, and this is normal etc etc.
Am I crazy to think that when it’s 91, we should be able to have it 75/76 inside with no issues? Is it normal for an AC unit to run 10-12 hours nonstop to not even keep up with 91 degree outdoor temps?
Edit: if he won’t budge towards replacing the unit, what are some ways we can improve its efficiency short term while not dying as the heat is about to go crazy down here? Am I completely off base here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
2024.05.15 22:26 NiceWeather650 Going on Vacation - How to get exercise for gecko?
Hi all! I used to have housemates who could care for Mrs. WorldWide when I went out of town. Now I am her sole caretaker and I'm wondering, how do you set up your geckos for healthy living when you're out of town?
Total time alone: 4 nights
Food plan: Tons of crickets, many king worms live in her substrate
Water: Adding an extra bowl not under the heat emitter
She loves to cruise around outside of her tank (large tank) so I'm mainly worried about her enrichment/exercise needs. She comes out to party almost every night.
Thanks for the tips!
submitted by NiceWeather650 to leopardgeckos [link] [comments]
Total time alone: 4 nights
Food plan: Tons of crickets, many king worms live in her substrate
Water: Adding an extra bowl not under the heat emitter
She loves to cruise around outside of her tank (large tank) so I'm mainly worried about her enrichment/exercise needs. She comes out to party almost every night.
Thanks for the tips!