Lenovo x61s hdd
3.5" HDD 12V Frankensteinmod for HP ProDesk 400 Mini
2024.05.19 19:38 Haldi4803 3.5" HDD 12V Frankensteinmod for HP ProDesk 400 Mini
| Hello, Few days back i saw a Listing for a HP ProDesk 400 G6 Mini for 150$. Only 4 core i3-10100T but that has about the same performance as the old 6 core i5-8500T, so why not. The Power Efficiency is extreme! This thingy uses around 3-4W in Idle. The plan was to keep it as an Offshore Backup solution. But only NVME Storage was a little disappointing. So i bought some of those flex Sata Adapters. Backside of Flex Sata Adapter seems normal.... Sadly, or rather according to specification, those Sata Ports only use 5V and do not even have 12V Pins. Flex Sata Cable without 12V pins.... so my choice is either use 5TB 2.5" Drives that work with 5V only, or source 12V otherwise. Would be no fun going the easy route right?.... And i already have some old Sata Cables and a mini DC/DC Step Down converter here. So my plan was to Cut the existing Cable in Half so i only have to source 12V and not 12V+5V+3V Pins in a Sata Power Cable At this point i'm not even Sure if Sata Disks use 3.3V or not.... because in Sata 3.3 Spec it got changed somewhen... https://preview.redd.it/zv8o9gnjxe1d1.jpg?width=650&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3536c5c85e89505d4639e0997e59ab0f873f96b Or at leas that's what some guy on StackExchange said. Well whatever... in my case i won't touch those pins anyway. Half of a Flex Sata Cable Half of a Sata Power Cable It doesn't really look great... but it seems to be stuck well enough and is connected correctly. All Ground / 12V Pins Safe! The next Problem is, where to i get 12V power from? Some Lenovo Thinkstations Tiny do come with 12V Solderpads on the Mainboard. Sadly the HP ProDesk Mini does not seem to have those. Only Valid option is to get 19V directly from the Input, there it has Checkpins. So i use a Mini360 DC/DC Step Down converter that is rated for 1.8A continuous usage to get those 19V down to 12V 19V input to 12V Sata PowerCable... or half of it. It took a lot of patience and caused quite a bit of despair, but i barely managed to solder the Cables onto the Checkpoints on the Mainboard. 19V Pins on the Mainboard. And we got a working 3.5" HDD! Banzai! 3.5\" HDD connected an Working. Now i just need to somehow figure out how to solve the enclosure problem ^^ But sadly the Sata HDD uses quite a bit of energy and prevents the System from reaching lower C-States. I have a TrueNAS Scale instance running with an empty HomeAssistant VM, Portainer with Jellyfin, Immich and Syncthing and a empty 2nd SSD on the Sata Port. Average Powerdraw was around 5.5W. With the HDD in Idle/Sleep/Standby the powerdraw is increased to 7.5W. Mainly because the System is Stuck in C7 and does not reach C9 anymore. Even Powertop --Auto-tune did not help. Writing something onto the Disk increases Powerdraw to around 12W. Power usage of the System measured via power plug But 7.5W is still a pretty decent value for a HomeLab that runs 24/7 and has up to 22TB Storage Capacity. So yeah.... if your Question is " Can i add a 3.5" HDD to my Mini PC?" The answer is Yes. The other question is, SHOULD you add a 3.5" Drive with a hardware hack to your 24/7 homeserver? submitted by Haldi4803 to homelab [link] [comments] |
2024.05.19 18:08 Jissouille I'm desesperate, 20$ Paypal to anyone who find the solution
i bought a Lenovo ideapad gaming 3 15ach6 (16gb ram, Rtx 3050 Ti) in april 2023, it was the best investment of my life. But since january 2024, suttering in all of my games making it impossible to play smoothly. It's the kind of problem you get when you're out of free storage space but I've completely resest my pc, changed SSD, HDD, and many other things please help me
submitted by
Jissouille to
techsupport [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 09:26 UnderstandingHuge13 Thinkpad L440 With Windows 11
2024.05.18 21:12 GuitarNew5517 15$ to anyone who find the solution (stuttering in games)
Hello,
I bought a Lenovo Ideapad Gaming 3 (15ACH6, 16GB RAM, RTX 3050 TI) in April 2023, and everything was working fine until January 30, 2024. On that day, I suddenly experienced a significant drop in gaming performance (micro-freezes in many games, and now it's impossible to run them on an HDD because they stutter heavily, whereas previously it was perfectly possible to play using an HDD).
I have tried the following steps:
Complete reset (with and without a USB drive) (no success) Sent my PC to Lenovo 4 Times (no success) Followed about fifty tutorials on Reddit to optimize the PC (no success) Replaced the HDD with a New hdd (no success) Replaces the HDD with an SSD (some games run better, and some games like Minecraft, left for Dead 2, session skate sim, red Dead are still stutering) and I don't understand why I can no longer run them on the HDD).
Please HELP me it's been 5 month
submitted by
GuitarNew5517 to
Lenovo [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 18:37 SparkMyke This machine is killing me. If your Thinkpad has ever faced such a peculiar issue, kindly assist.
submitted by
SparkMyke to
thinkpad [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 17:27 GabrielNadaMasXD How can upgrade my Lenovo M78 to gaming?
Well. I have a Lenovo M78 with the next characteristics:
Proccesor: AMD A10-6700
Graphics: Radeon HD 8670D
Ram: 8gb ddr3 1600mhz
Hdd: Western Digital Blue 500gb
Power Supply: 250w 80 bronze plus
I think I should start by changing the HDD for an 960gb western digital blue SSD. Since the HDD is at risk of being damaged since it has bad sectors and more than 20,000 hours of ignition.
The next thing is to put another 8GB RAM module at 1600MHz.
And what I have doubts about is what graphics card to put in it. My options are:
RX 570
GTX 1060
GTX 1050 Ti
But what I have to see is if my power supply supports these cards or do I have to change the power supply or see if I put a low profile card in it.
Any recommendation?
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GabrielNadaMasXD to
pcmasterrace [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 17:21 SirSugarpop New to Proxmox. Wanting to switch from bare metal servers to a multi-node cluster.
Hello. I'm in a situation where I initially wanted to create my own NAS solution, but got a little carried away and bought a load of hardware. I live in Europe and electricity prices are quite high and so I wanted to know if it's possible to create a multi-node Proxmox cluster and let the nodes that run services I don't need all the time go into sleep but still being fairly responsive when I do want to turn them on. I also have a single HDD Synology NAS which I've been using as my main backup and sync storage so far. I want to eventually make it my second back up NAS. Here's what I have so far. - A Fujitsu Esprimo G6012 mini pc with a single NVMe slot and no further room for expansion. It has a Intel 12100 CPU and 16 GB of non ECC DDR4. It has a iGPU. It currently hosts Pi-hole and webserver. It has only one 1Gbps NIC. It consumes only 2 Watt on idle and in full responsive state. This would be the machine that would always be online. - A HP Z440 with an Intel Xeon E5-2697A v4 CPU, 192GB of ECC RAM in Quad Channel, 4 SATA SSDs, a PCIe 3x16 to NVMe HP Quad Turbo Z Drive with 4x 960 GB enterprise SSDs and 2 free SATA ports left. This machine draws 70 to 80 Watt on idle, and I want to use it as my main toy for running different virtual machines that aren't needed all the time. I can put either a Nvidia K1200 or P4000 in it or even both, but then I would need to replace the Quad Turbo Drive out and replace it with a Dual one. There's no iGPU. I could also add a light VGA Card in it. I would like to run older Windows VM's on it and some Linux testing distro's. Of course not all at once, as I only have 1 or 2 GPU's to pass through. I know there's the possibility to split up the GPU's, but I never have used Proxmox before, so what I'm after will already be a challenge. It has one 1Gbps NIC, but I can add a PCIe card or USB for more NICs - A Dell Precision Tower 3620 with a Xeon E3-1275 v5. It has an iGPU, 6 free SATA ports, space for a dedicated GPU and 1 M.2 slot for hosting the OS. It want to use this machine for storage, perhaps some dockers and things like Jellyfin and Nextcloud. It can be always online, but it would be nice to have it enter the lowest power states with HDD's spun down. It has 16 GB of ECC memory, but I can add some later. Initially I wanted to run Truenas Scale bare metal on it, but then I found out about Proxmox. - A Lenovo Thinkstation with a Xeon W-2245 and 32 GB of ECC RAM. I bought this as a donor PC as I want to take the CPU from it to place it in my... - HP Z4 G4 with a W-2125 (it will be swapped with the W-2245) and 64GB of ECC RAM. It has 2x 1Gbps NIC's, a RTX4070 Ti Super and plenty of space to upgrade. This machine will either not take part of the Proxmox cluster as I want to use it for gaming and running proprietary software on it that I need for my job. There are no open-source or cross platform alternatives. Or put it in the cluster and run Windows in a VM. I don't play multiplayer games so nothing to worry about. I can always set it up as a dual booting machine as well when I absolutely want to play multiplayer games.
So my question boils down to this: Can I keep the mini PC online 24/7 running Proxmox and wake up the other nodes when needed with minimal delay? The reason I want to do this all in a cluster is to share the resources on the storage server. It's going to be populated with large HDD's. I also would like one interface to keep track of everything. And of course for the fun of it. I guess. Right now I can remotely let my router send a magic package to WOL each machine, but I have no feedback like that when errors occur etc.
It would really be great to have a hypervisor idling at 2 Watts and be able to power up a whole bunch of computing power on demand when needed and only then.
So before I go down this rabbit hole of multi-node setups, I want to know if it's doable and if so what I should really avoid etc. I want to use ZFS as my deep archiving storage filesystem. The enterprise SSD's have triple power out protection. On the SSD's themselves, on the HP Z Drive and from the capacitor bank in the PSU. I checked when powering of the Z440 and they keep writing for more than 2 minutes. So they're perfect for the VM's.
My last question is if 1 Gbps interconnect is enough? I'm the only user. Perhaps I can add a 10 Gbps switch later and upgrade some machines to 10 Gbps as well. But the mini PC can't be upgraded. It can however be replaced in the future. Would I need to setup the entire array from scratch again then? Do I need to install identical configurations of Proxmox on every node, so if one fails, all the rest still functions?
Any advice?
Thank you.
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SirSugarpop to
Proxmox [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 14:52 AndreaNewsHub Lenovo ThinkPad T480 14 pollici 1920 x 1080 Full HD Intel Core i5 8250U 1 TB SSD HDD 16 GB memoria Windows 11 Pro Webcam incl. docking notebook portatile (ricondizionato) #pubblicità #Lenovo #ThinkPad
submitted by AndreaNewsHub to ItaliaBox [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 10:02 IamCam85 Self-hosted NAS on low powered laptop
Hi all. I'm making progress but I think I might have the wrong idea about some things and want help before I get too deep in the weeds.
I have a Lenovo IdeaPad with 4GB ram, 500GB SSD and a 500GB SATA HDD, i5-7200U @ 2.5Ghz
Goals:
- I want to make a NAS to completely replace my reliance on Google Drive, and still be able to remotely access any file on any device (Windows, Android, and possibly iPadOS-but not a big deal there). I'd like CasaOS as a GUI to handle this.
- I want to create a RAID array so that the main drive (SSD) is mirrored onto the HDD. (Both of these are installed internally)
- I would like certain folders to be automatically saved to my NAS - no matter where they are created - using Syncthing. (Example: if I take a picture on my android phone, I want to be able to open it on my Windows 11 machine from an assigned "Pictures" folder on the NAS. If I create a text file with Windows, I want to be able to open it in Linux from an assigned "Documents" folder on the NAS)
- I want to set it up as a media server as well, with an interface similar to what you'd find on a streaming device, also remotely accessible from any of my devices- using Jellyfin.
- **I do not want to buy anything else for this setup. I do know that everything that I want to do can be done with the hardware that I have and with free opensource apps**
Progress:
My original idea was to have OpenMediaVault handle the NAS duties but you can't use desktop environments with it apparently. So I currently have antiX (Debian) running but I can't get it to work with Syncthing at all. It installs but when I try open the localhost, nothing is found. (My research implies that it may be because antiX doesn't use systemD, but obviously I could be completely misunderstanding)
I stopped here because this is making me second-guess everything. Would these 3 apps even work with each other? Should I use another lightweight DE like Debian with XFCE? Do I have unnecessary redundancies with my current choices?
Thanks for any solid advice offered!
submitted by
IamCam85 to
linux4noobs [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 08:25 SinaQadri what happens if you run out of pagefile (Memory Composition) while gaming?
i will use Discussion flair for this because i solved the issue i belive
yesterday i was Playing GTA Online (Lenovo L340) before playing it on advanced system settings i changed my virtual memory for my hard drives for some free space (because i moved my GTA 5 from an HDD to an SSD)
after entering the game nothing weird happened at the begining i was getting solid 90-100 fps while playing
when i entered the game i was spawned at the beach near my personal car when i tried to drive into the city my GPU started to act weird (to clearify the *act weird* thing what happened was my screen went black my OS switched the GPU to the IGPU [i know because the yellow screen filter went off] then a weird box with rgb noise kind of thing appeared on screen's center) ofcourse who is the broke guy that cant afford a repair freaked out and force shut down the laptop)
when i turned it back on everything seemed to be normal as ususal but when i tried to play the game again same thing happened spanwed at beach went to city and crash this time however my GPU swapped to the IGPU but not glitched like last time for some reason i tried to shut down the laptop and it gave me Critical proccess died BSOD
i couldnt sleep yesterday and today i wrote every single thing i did before gaming first thing i thought this might be overheating issue but it wasnt the case
then i told myself wait i changed the pagefile from 15GB to 6gb what if.... then i changed it back from single drive 6gb to 6gb for C:/ and 9gb for D:/
and somehow this time nor gta crashed or anything weird happened....
so i thought hey post this on reddit and see if anyone else had this weirdness or not...
oh btw Lenovo Ideapad L340 4GBram 1tb ssd 1tb hdd Geforce MX110 + intel UHD series 2gb+2gb
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SinaQadri to
buildapc [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 02:24 MrShimmerer Steam Deck vs Laptop vs Xbox as daily driver
I am about to move country (Korea to Malaysia) and space is at a premium in our new apartment, and I am considering space-efficient and cost-effective options to game on. I will be selling my older Asus prebuilt desktop setup with a 2060 Super and am considering one of the following options:
- A Steam Deck that may be used in desktop mode for certain games (512gb OLED version available for 620 USD)
- a Lenovo Legion 5 pro laptop (possibly the 2022 edition but not sure, sold new with a Ryzen 7-6800H, 3060, 16 GB RAM) - 960USD
- giving up on PC gaming for now and just buying an HDD upgrade and rebuying the Xbox versions of the games I play the most these days, using the Series S that I will be taking with me (which will come to 130USD for the HDD plus whatever money I spend on the games/gamepass etc). I do a lot of older GOG gaming but I figure I can always be naughty and install that stuff on whatever laptop I get given at work.
The games I'd like to play:
* Total war games like three kingdoms/warhammer 3 (which I'd have to give up obviously on Steam Deck/Xbox)
* Age of Empires 2DE/4
* Diablo 2 Resurrected
* Elden Ring, Sekiro
* Baldur's Gate 3
* Monster Hunter World
* Civ VI
Any thoughts?
submitted by
MrShimmerer to
SteamDeck [link] [comments]
2024.05.18 02:21 MrShimmerer Steam Deck vs Laptop vs Xbox Series S as daily driver
I am about to move country (Korea to Malaysia) and space is at a premium in our new apartment, and I am considering space-efficient and cost-effective options to game on. I will be selling my older Asus prebuilt desktop setup with a 2060 Super and am considering one of the following options:
- A Steam Deck that may be used in desktop mode for certain games (512gb OLED version available for 620 USD)
- a Lenovo Legion 5 pro laptop (possibly the 2022 edition but not sure, sold new with a Ryzen 7-6800H, 3060, 16 GB RAM) - 960USD
- giving up on PC gaming for now and just buying an HDD upgrade and rebuying the Xbox versions of the games I play the most these days, using the Series S that I will be taking with me (which will come to 130USD for the HDD plus whatever money I spend on the games/gamepass etc). I do a lot of older GOG gaming but I figure I can always be naughty and install that stuff on whatever laptop I get given at work.
The games I'd like to play:
* Total war games like three kingdoms/warhammer 3 (which I'd have to give up obviously on Steam Deck/Xbox)
* Diablo 2 Resurrected
* Elden Ring, Sekiro
* Baldur's Gate 3
* Monster Hunter World
* Civ VI
Has anyone tried using their Series S at their desks this way?
submitted by
MrShimmerer to
XboxSeriesS [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 22:20 DDDirk Help me with a budget around $2200+ CAD
**1. PC is for 1440P gaming and some work. Mostly Sims and RPGs, Starfield, Cyberpunk, KSP, Oxygen not included, Hogwarts, Factorio, Very little competitive gaming (maybe Battlefield) etc. For work I do mostly 2d autoCAD, civil3d, and some 3d modeling, large model photogrammetry surveys.
**2. Absolute Max budget is $2400 but I hoping for ~$2200. The idea is to optimize around price/performance. I want to get a mighty fast beast of a computer, but try to avoid the trap of paying 50% more for only 5% more performance kind of idea.
**3. When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Right away, unless there's a compelling reason to wait.
4. What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ex: toweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)
Need - Case, Motherboard, CPU, GPU, RAM, 1TB min Boot drive. Maybe need - PSU?
5. If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? How old are they? Brands and models are appreciated.
Drives - 1x WD_Black SN750 1TB NVME (2yrs old) 2x Samusng SATA SSD's (3 - 5 years old) 1x HDD 3tB (3- 5 years old)
PSU - SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Platinum 750 W Monitor - Dell S2721DGF - 1440P 165hz Wireless Network Adapter - ASUS WiFi 6E + Bluetooth 5.2 PCI-E Expansion Card (PCE-AXE58BT) Mouse and Keyboard - Logitech mxmaster keys and mouse.
6. Will you be overclocking (ex: CPU/GPU/RAM)? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line?
I plan on overclocking in the future, not right away, except for XMP.
7. Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, Wi-Fi/Bluetooth, VR, VirtualLink, tensor cores, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)
I am going to reuse my old wifi/bluetooth card so I dont need it on my Mobo.
8. Do you have any specific case preferences (ex: mITX/mATX/mid-towefull-tower sizes, styles, colours, window or not, LED lighting, etc.), or a particular color theme preference for the components?
I am looking at white, modern, cases, my wife is approving this upgrade because she hates my old giant black case. I am not trying to show off the hardware at all, stealth and airflow and looks. I was looking at the be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX white. But I dont love the look of it, dont hate it, but could me more sleek.
9. Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? Note: some post-secondary students can get Windows 10 for free.
Will try to keep my current license
10. Will you be upgrading this PC in the future (ie: will you swap out better parts later on or will you build an entirely new tower later)? If so, when?
- No, other than more storage, and maybe doubling the RAM I dont intend to upgrade
11. Do you have a brand preference? (ex: AMD/Intel for CPUs, AMD/NVIDIA for video cards, etc)
Nope.
12. What are the specs of your old PC / laptop? Do you want to see if it can be upgraded instead? If so, paste its build from PCPartPicker here.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/kDtVz6 PCPartPicker Part List 13. Extra info or particulars:
- I would like to hopefully re-use the power supply, if a 750W unit is enough (I thought I was future proofing). And I'm going to give all my old hardware to my nephew for his first gaming PC.
submitted by
DDDirk to
bapccanada [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 18:00 LabB0T Weekly r/homelabsales Summary - 2024-05-17
The last weeks [For Sale] posts in homelabsales Posts that have not met the rules of HLS or have completed are not shown.
Bot Feedback? - Checkout the pinned post in my profile CAN
-ANY- MB ON
EU
-ANY- SE
UK
-ANY-
US-C
-ANY- CO IA IL MN MO MO-KC TX TX-DFW - homelab cleanout: PCIe cards, server chassis, storage bay, firewall, switches, access points, pc parts, smart home/IoT
- Lab Cleanout! Z840 Workstation 256GB RAM, DL360, Optiplex 7060, GPU, SSDs, Hard Drives, RAM
WI
US-E
-ANY- CT FL GA - Ubiquiti AP's , UBB, iPhone 13 Pro 1TB Unlocked, Macbook Pro, etc..Dog needs surgery ASAP
- Lenovo m900, raspberry Pi, Synology DS220+
- various items, IP phones, router, backup, rack, shelves,etc
MA MD-VA-DC NC NH NJ NY OH PA VA
US-W
-ANY- AZ CA - 4x Asus RT-AC68U routers and pair of powerline ethernet adapters
- 4x Asus RT-AC68U routers and pair of powerline ethernet adapters
- [Sacramento] Navepoint 22U 2-post rack and Dell T5820 workstation
- Dell R740 8x2.5" - 2x Xeon Gold 6242R - 256GB
- Ubiquiti US-24-250w PoE Switch
- 3 x HPe DL380 G9 XEON E5-2640v4 128GB 4x1Gbe 2x10Gbe 800gb SAS SSD
- UniFi USW-PRO-24-POE
- 1060 6GB, 1660 6GB, Dell Perc H310, 128GB non-ecc 3200Mhz, Ryzen 2700x, Ryzen 5600g, and MSI Prestige X570 Creation
- 5x Dell Optiplex 5000s SFF
- i5-10500+MATX+RAM+cooler combo, 8gb 2666 SODIMM, 2x 480GB enterprise SATA SSD, 4x free 9560NGW
- Beelink GTR 7 Mini PC, 7840HS, 32GB RAM, 1TB NVME SSD w/ Extra Mag. Power Cable
- DDR4 ECC 16GB 2933, R6415 NVMe, 2x R640, R730xd
- Miscellaneous Homelab Cleanout - Storage Server Chassis, System Internals
- 12U Server Rack & APC PDU
CO ID OR UT WA submitted by
LabB0T to
homelab [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 16:51 lbabinz [Best Buy] Weekly Deals Sale at Best Buy: May 17 - 23 (SEGA, 1st Party Switch Games, Ubisoft, EA, 2K, Minecraft, Early Summer Sale, more)
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lbabinz to
VideoGameDealsCanada [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 04:48 doritrix Will it make big diffrence if i upgrade RAM and SSD? *help"
2024.05.16 23:44 CatenaBR Clonar HD para SSD
Salve galera, gostaria de tirar uma dúvida aqui.
Eu tenho um notebook Lenovo Ideapad 310, com incríveis 8gb RAM e um i7 6500 com 2 núcleos e 4 threads, apesar de bem básico, ele ainda está muito bom, e lento apenas por causa do HD. Comprei um SSD pra colocar nele e gostaria de clonar meu HD para o SSD, porém por ser um notebook, tenho que usar o SSD via USB durante o processo de clonagem.
Minha dúvida é se vocês conhecem algum software livre que faça isso. Já tentei o Macrium, porém minha licença de 30 free já expirou. Tentei o Win to HDD, mas pra drive via USB a função clonagem é paga. Pesquisei vários outras opções também e não achei nada que me resolvesse esse problema.
Enfim, alguém tem alguma dica?
submitted by
CatenaBR to
computadores [link] [comments]
2024.05.16 15:03 Petkov2005 i cannot find graphic drivers for vista on the t430.
I cannot find graphic and network drivers for vista on the t430. those for XP don't work, and they do not show up on the lenovo site.
specs: type 2349 i5-3320m cpu 6gb ram 320gb hdd battery does not hold cmos battery also does not hold windows vista SP1
Windows 7 works fine. Thanks in advance.
also i found the network drivers. i will also try legacy update and updating to SP2
P.S: I want to use windows Vista not because it is good, but because I want to try betas of 7.
submitted by
Petkov2005 to
thinkpad [link] [comments]
2024.05.15 04:13 jajamjam An in-depth guide to technologies for charging, docks and more
Hi all! This is a rather comprehensive guide for newcomers to PC gaming to help understand the relevant technologies when it comes to docks, peripherals, external storage and monitors. This should help navigate the sometimes conflicting and confusing advice online and enable you to make buying decisions based on your personal needs.
Cables, Power Delivery and 30W Turbo
(More info regarding cables under Data Transfer - Cables) Cables and Power Delivery All USB C to C cables built to spec are capable of providing 20V@3A for a maximum of 60W. For any higher power output, there are different protocols and the Ally uses the Power Delivery (PD) protocol which is common for laptops - If you already have a laptop with USB C charging, check to see if its charger supports PD charging since you could use its charger with the Ally and vice versa.
The PD protocol requires a handshake where the power source, whether it be a charger or power bank, communicates its different capabilities (eg. 15V @ 3A = 45W, 20V @ 3.25A = 65W, 20V @ 5A = 100W, etc.) and the device communicates what it can safely receive over the USB cable. This communication requires an E marker chip built into the USB C cable which allows the power source to deliver up to 48V @ 5A = 240W, although it is more common to find the older 20V @5 A = 100W cables. The E marker is also what allows you to plug in a high output PD charger to charge much lower powered devices without frying any components since the charger will keep to a safe/low power output until the E marker communicates the capabilities on both ends.
The Ally uses the 20V @ 3.25A (65W) PD power profile and any USB C to C cable with an E marker should work for the Ally as long as your charger or power bank can deliver the aforementioned 20V @ 3.25A.
Note: Sometimes cables just aren't built to spec and cheaper cables might not work as intended or fail quickly. The E marker chip malfunctioning is a primary reason why your charger and cable combination might suddenly stop working as intended and not deliver the 65W to the Ally even if it did earlier - in most situations, it might just drop to 20V @ 3A (60W). 30W Turbo requirements As far as the ROG Ally is concerned,
- If a 20V @ 3.25A PD profile (or higher) is powering the device, the device will allow up to 30W to the GPU.
- If the Ally can't draw at least 20V @ 3.25A, it'll max out at 25W to the GPU.
- USB A to C cables simply cannot provide the higher output PD wattages. Some USB A to C cables (OnePlus/Oppo ones for instance) use proprietary pin layouts to achieve higher power output up to 100W but these are proprietary implementations and won't work with the Ally.
- PD charging requires a USB C to C cable (or PD chargers with attached cables like the original charger)
How to enable 30W Turbo If you're connecting the power source directly to the Ally, i.e. not using a hub: - The original charger works flawlessly as well as any similar ones from reputable laptop brands (HP, Lenovo, etc.) that use PD and have the 20V @ 3.25A profile as well.
- If you're using a power bank or charger with a removable cable, make sure it supports the same PD profile as mentioned above and use a USB C to C cable with an E marker. Any cable with an E marker should reliably provide at least 100W since the minimum spec is 20V @ 5A.
If you're connecting the Ally through a dock/hub: This is where things get interesting. Without getting very technical, USB specifications are set by the USB Implementers Forum (USB IF). For docks and hubs, the specification states that USB devices should be able to draw power at the port with max power draw specified. For USB 3 devices, this max power draw is 5V @ 900 mA (4.5W at the port) and for USB 2 devices, this max draw is 5V @ 500 mA (2.5W). This is why most docks and hubs have their own power requirement, around 15W usually but may vary, so that power is reserved for the USB ports. Depending on the device connected, this power draw can vary - a portable spinning hard disk drive will draw more power than a dongle for a wireless mouse for instance.
Insufficient power to the ports can manifest in many ways such as USB devices disconnecting and reconnecting, HDMI intermittently disconnecting, etc. I haven't been able to test this so please take this section with a grain of salt - docks that support 30W Turbo with the original charger don't seem to meet the official USB IF specs since the dock must be exposing the Ally to the 20V @ 3.25A PD profile without reserving any power to the USB ports. I haven't been able to confirm this myself as all the docks and hubs I use reserve around 15W for the ports and require at least 80W+ PD to allow the 30W Turbo mode. Based on my digging online, it seems like some people have no issues using these docks while others have reliability issues such as the ones I described earlier.
To summarise, enabling 30W Turbo mode reliably on the Ally when connected to a dock or hub requires (should require?) the following: - A charger or power bank capable of 80W or higher PD profiles since the hub should ideally be reserving power for itself to prevent issues on the ports (usually around 15W but can vary).
- Like earlier, if you're using a removable cable with a charger or power bank, make sure to use a USB C to C cable with an E marker chip.
- Potential option if you have a 100W power bank that supports PD passthrough - in this scenario you can plug in your original ROG Ally charger to the power bank (65W input to the power bank) and then connect your dock to the power bank (up to 100W to the dock). I can confirm it works with this power bank: https://www.amazon.ca/imuto-26800mAh-Portable-Charger-Charging/dp/B0BC7NJHCW
If you don't care about playing on 30W Turbo mode, As mentioned earlier, all USB C to C cables should be capable of at least 60W. Using a charger with any lower PD profiles such as a 45W charger will not cause any damage or harm, you might just lose battery even with a charger connected but that's about it. I often use my 25W phone charger or even Nintendo Switch charger - reliable chargers will not damage your device.
Data Transfer
General info Mbps, MB/s, Gbps and GB/s - there's a difference.
You'll often see the terms Mbps or MB/s (alternatively Gbps or GB/s) used to refer to USB speed, storage speed, internet speeds, etc. but it's important to note the difference.
Mbps = Megabits per second, MB/s = Megabytes per second
Gbps = Gigabits per second, GB/s = Gigabytes per second
Data transfer is usually measured in Megabits per second, Mbps (or Gigabits per second, Gbps). Your internet speed is a great example of this. Files and any storage in general is measured as Megabytes or Gigabytes. To work out file transfers in Megabytes or Gigabytes per second use the following:
8 bits make up 1 byte and 1 Gigabit = 1000 Megabits. To keep things confusing, 1 Gigabyte = 1024 Megabytes.
If your internet service provider is providing a 1 Gigabit connection it works out to 1000/8= 125 Megabytes per second, i.e. a file that is 250 Megabytes will take 2 seconds to download.
(Note: real speeds will always be lower due to network overhead, congestion, distance to servers and a bunch of other factors.) A breakdown for the things most relevant to the ROG Ally: - USB 2 ports, cables and devices max out at 480 Mbps, ie 480/8 = 60 Megabytes per second. These shouldn't be used for file transfer since they're slow but work great for peripherals such as keyboards, mice, webcams, wireless dongles, etc. These devices tend to use very little bandwidth and won't saturate a USB 2 port.
- USB 3.0 ports, cables and devices max out at 5 Gbps (5000 Mbps), ie. 5000/8 = 625 Megabytes per second. Ports on most docks max out at these speeds.
- USB 3.1 (also known as 3.1 Gen 2 because USB naming convention is a hot mess...) ports, cables and devices max out at 10 Gbps (10000 Mbps), ie. 10000/8 =1250 Megabytes per second.
The Ally's USB C port is USB 3.1 Gen 2 with DP Alt mode so the max transfer speed you can get from the Ally is 10 Gbps. Ideally you should look for docks and cables that are capable of 10 Gbps. - USB 3.1 Gen 2x2: 20 Gbps, ie. 2500 Megabytes per second. Although the Ally can't achieve these speeds, you might find enclosures or portable SSD's operating at these speed at comparable prices to 10 Gbps ones when on sale. Just worth keeping an eye out for.
- USB 4/Thunderbolt: up to 40 Gbps, ie. 5000 Megabytes per second. if you have a device capable of USB 4/Thunderbolt I would recommend looking into a Thunderbolt dock/hub but otherwise they are overkill for the Ally since the dock will operate at lower speeds and some USB 4/TB features in the dock won't work at all. These hubs and cables require in depth certification making them very reliable but also very expensive.
Other notable mentions:
- A functioning SD card slot in the Ally (UHS-II): maxes out at 312 Megabytes per second
- LAN (1 gigabit): 125 Megabytes per second
- LAN (2.5 gigabit): 312.5 Megabytes per second
- WiFi 5: Typically 866Mbps, ie. 108.25 Megabytes per second
- WiFi 6 (80 Mhz channels): Typically 1201 Mbps, ie. 150.125 Megabytes per second
- WiFi 6 (160 Mhz channels): Typically 2402 Mbps, ie. 300.25 Megabytes per second
WiFi 5 and 6 speeds are theoretically MUCH higher but this is what most people can expect from their routers to their device - including crappy ISP provided routers. For LAN and WiFI, these are the speeds you can expect on your local network and NOT the speed your ISP provides to the internet. Your local network is what you are using when you stream in home from a PC or console to the Ally using something like Steam Link or Sunshine. Or if you access storage on your network (NAS, Plex server, Jellyfin, etc.)
Real speeds will always be lower across the board when you account for any overhead such as the Windows File system, background tasks, network overhead etc.
Data Transfer - Cables Make sure you're using a cable that can match the speed of the device, ie. if you're connecting a USB 3.0 device, make sure the cable also supports USB 3.0 at least. Similarly, you need to use a 10Gbps USB cable to achieve 10Gbps data transfer speeds. Using higher spec cables should always work reliably with lower spec devices too, such as using a 10Gbps cable with a USB 2 device will just operate at USB 2 speeds.
NOTE: A cable containing an E marker chip does not necessarily mean it can do video or even USB 3.0 file speeds. The E marker chip is unrelated to data transfer capabilities. In general, most 100W E marker cables only work at USB 2 speeds if used for file transfer, unless they explicitly state other capabilities. I've personally had great reliability with 240W E marker cables though and it's been much easier to find reliable cables that provide 10Gbps data transfer, 4K 60Hz video output and any level of PD required all through one cable. I suspect the reliability mainly comes from the more stringent certification process required for 240W PD. These cables can be chonky though.
Can games run from an SD card, external hard drive, external SSD or USB flash drive? Short answer, yes.
Longer answer, yes, but keep the following in mind:
- For most games, you will see a difference in terms of load times taking longer when running from external storage - the game performance should be identical though. Games which explicitly state they need internal SSDs can also work from removable storage but your mileage may vary. Forza Motorsport for instance throws a warning message upon launch but you can safely ignore it without issue.
- Some launchers work better with removable storage for games. Steam, Epic Games and Ubisoft have all worked great for me but games from XBox have had issues with updates breaking game files. Most launchers will allow you to select removable media for storage though.
- The Ally might not recognize games that are installed on removable storage if the storage isn't plugged in when you turn the Ally on. Basically, if you're not seeing a game you have installed, shut down the Ally, connect the storage device to the Ally directly or through a dock and then turn the Ally back on. The games should reappear and be playable.
My advice would be to install any game you intend to play only while the Ally is connected to a dock on external storage devices, otherwise install them internally. For instance, I only play Ace Combat when I'm connected to my TV so it made sense to install it on external storage that is always connected to my dock and TV.
External storage - What should I use? - Cheap option - If you have an old laptop, PC or console that you no longer use, consider reusing the internal HDD or SSD from those devices in an enclosure. The form factor and connectors vary so make sure to buy the correct one. Spinning hard drives will be slower and depending on age, might not be the most reliable so keep that in mind.
- Using an M.2 SSD in a 10Gbps enclosure. I personally prefer this method since you can find M.2 SSDs frequently going on sale and it allows you to reuse the drive internally in a future PC build. If you don't want to go this route though, you can look into external SSDs from the likes of reliable brands like SanDisk, Samsung, Western Digital, etc. which offer comparable speeds to M.2 SSDs in an enclosure.
- USB/USB C flash drives (thumb drives) - I personally only recommend using flash drives to move data rather than for storing data but no harm if you want to install games on them.
- SD/Micro SD Cards - I wouldn't recommend buying one given the Ally's SD slot issues BUT if you already bought one or have any cards laying around, consider using an external card reader to plug into your dock/hub or to the Ally directly. Read/write speeds vary based on the card and reader but keep in mind that the Steam Deck runs games off its SD card slot (UHS I) which only has a max speed of 104 Megabytes per second.
What's the best keyboard, mouse, controller for the Ally? This will entirely depend on you - There are three main ways to connect and each has its pros and cons. The way you personally see these pros and cons will help you pick.
Wired devices:
Pros - lowest latency in most cases, no need to recharge devices.
Cons - need a dock to connect more than one device and you'll need to manage cables.
Bluetooth:
Pros - cable free, no need for a dock to connect to your devices.
Cons - some latency, need recharging/batteries, connectivity issues are common.
Wireless dongles:
Pros - cable free, lower latency than Bluetooth and some devices have latency comparable to wired performance.
Cons - still need a dock if you require more than one dongle, dongles often use 2.4Ghz protocols and might have crazy interference with poorly shielded devices around them.
Some devices will offer more than one way to connect - I've found them ideal for the Ally.
My peripherals (not recommendations per se, rather my use case since all were bought for an existing work from home/gaming PC setup) Keyboards:
- Keychron K4 (V2): 3 devices over Bluetooth or wired. The Bluetooth has always been slow to connect with any device so I use it wired with my gaming PC. Otherwise, excellent mechanical keyboard.
- MX Keys Mini: 3 devices total over Bluetooth or Logi Bolt dongle. Very little input latency with the dongle but I stick to Bluetooth personally for the convenience. Much smaller than the Keychron K4 too and quicker to connect on BT so my go to for the Ally.
Mice:
- Logi M720 Triathlon - 3 devices total over Bluetooth or Logi Unifying receiver - Works perfectly regardless of using Bluetooth or the dongle. My go to for the Ally on Bluetooth for the convenience.
- Surface Arc Mouse - 1 device, Bluetooth. Overpriced and uncomfortable to use for long periods of time but it folds flat so I use it if I'm travelling with my Ally.
- Logi G502 SE - 1 device, Wired. Often regarded as one of the best wired gaming mice. I've used it with my gaming PC for about 4 - 5 years and have no complaints.
Controller:
- XBox Controller - Wired, Bluetooth or XBox USB adapter - pretty standard. The AUX port on the controller works if you're using the XBox USB adapter which is great.
- 8BitDo SN30 Pro - Wired, bluetooth. I believe the newer version has hall effect sticks. Triggers aren't analogue though - they are buttons.
- GameSir T4 Cyclone Pro - Wired, Bluetooth or Dongle. Hall effect sticks and triggers, lots of customizability, haptic triggers (only on Bluetooth mode though), gyro support - my go to for the Ally.
Displays
HDMI vs DisplayPort Like any data cable, HDMI and DisplayPort carry data but in the form of audio/video data. DisplayPort can carry more of this information based on the most common version available, ie. DisplayPort 1.4 which supports up to 32.4Gbps. The most common version for HDMI is 2.0 which supports up to 18Gbps.
DisplayPort is preferred for gaming PCs generally since they are better at communicating capabilities such as FreeSync capabilities, HDR capabilities, etc. which is why most monitors use DisplayPort, especially modern ones.
- For TVs - Use HDMI
- For Monitors - Use DisplayPort if your monitor and dock both support it
DP Alt mode and USB C monitors The Ally along with numerous phones and laptops support video out over USB C using what is known as DisplayPort Alt Mode (DP Alt Mode). This only works over USB C to USB C.
Some newer monitors support this and can be driven by just one USB C to USB C cable. They might also provide USB PD power.
Portable monitors also use DP Alt Mode to work over USB C. For HDMI, they use a standard HDMI to mini HDM and you need to plug in power when using HDMI. I haven't come across a dock that supports DP-Alt mode on its USB C ports making it impossible to drive a portable monitor over USB C with a dock (HDMI obviously will still work.)
Thunderbolt hubs may have USB C ports which allow DP Alt mode but in my experience they downgrade these ports to only USB 3 (without DP ALT mode) when connected to something that isn't Thunderbolt.
I only have experience with the Arzopa A1C (1920x1080, 60hz, 15.6 inch display) but here is my takeaway:
- Decent picture quality - think iPad level screen, better than what I was expecting frankly and same resolution as the Ally so I don't even change my settings.
- It was not mentioned anywhere in the manual/online but this does 50W PD passthrough. I plug in my charger to the monitor and use a USB C cable from the Ally and everything else I use is wireless. Pretty portable.
- Has an aux port if you want to plug in headphones/speakers to it directly.
Common misconceptions for anyone used to console gaming or new to PC gaming (Note: The section below is only relevant to native resolution output without any frame gen or upscaling such as RSR, FSR, AFMF, etc.)
I've seen numerous posts asking "will this __inch monitor work?". Your physical screen size does not matter. The pixel count does. A 24inch 4K 60hz monitor will be just as hard for the Ally to run as a 60inch 4k 60hz TV.
For the Ally at its native 1920x1080 resolution at 120 frames per second, the GPU has to render 2,073,600 pixels, 120 times per second.
When you connect your Ally to a 4K 60Hz TV and try to output at your TVs native resolution of 3840x2160, the Ally has to process 8,294,400 pixels, 60 times per second.
Essentially, you will never get the same performance hooked up to a 4K TV at native resolution compared to running a game at the Ally's native 1080p resolution.
The same goes if you're looking at 3440x1440, 2560x1440 or any resolution when considering a monitor. In terms of "will it work with the Ally?" The answer is always "yes it will work" since the Ally is a PC, but adjust your game settings or your resolution accordingly.
Simply put, the higher the resolution (and frame rate), the more pixels the GPU needs to render, the bigger the performance hit.
I can put together a detailed AMD Adrenaline and general game settings guide if there's interest.
Things to keep in mind while buying a dock or hub:
- Form factor - If you want to use it with other devices consider getting a different form factor than the standard dock shape (the classic Steam Deck and ROG Ally dock where it sits with a non removable right angled USB C connector).
- Will my case work with it? Personal example - I put a JSAUX case on my Ally and it doesn't fit in my dock anymore. The case has a stand though so still fully functional but just doesn't look as "clean".
- Should ideally reserve power for the USB ports to avoid random issues.
- Be capable of 65W passthrough after reserving power to the dock.
- USB ports speed - ideally you should aim for a dock or hub featuring 10Gbps ports to use the max bandwidth of the Ally's port. Most docks and hubs max out at 5 Gbps however which is also adequate.
- Monitor support - consider if you would prefer one with DisplayPort or HDMI - few will have both. If you're mostly connecting to TVs, HDMI will be fine. If you have a monitor with FreeSync, ideally look for a dock with DisplayPort.
- Multi monitor - If you want to connect to multiple displays, you need one with multiple outputs since you will not be able to daisy chain docks. Keep an eye out to avoid DisplayLink however. It is NOT the same as DisplayPort - it drives video over USB 3 (USB 2 even) but involves compression and some other proprietary work happening on the dock - absolute non issue for productivity/office work but just not for gaming with its own overhead.
- Consider one that has a removable cable to host - being able to use your own cable length can be great but just make sure it meets specifications (E marker, video and USB 3.0 at least for it to be usable with a dock and the Ally)
- LAN port speed - most cap out at 1 gigabit but you might come across some with 2.5 gigabit ports.
- Consider if having an SD card slot or M.2 enclosure built into the dock/hub is something that you need.
My thoughts on the docks/hubs I own All of them work pretty identically and offer 4K HDR, 30W Turbo, etc. when connected to a 100W PD charger. The ports are all USB 3.0 so max speed of 5Gbps. I’ve mentioned anything of note
Other handy accessories Thanks for reading and hope it helps!
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2024.05.15 04:01 accomplished-clown Upgrading from HDD to SSD
I want to upgrade a bit of hardware in my prebuilt PC -- if this is the wrong subreddit for that, please let me know!
This is my first time tinkering with a computer. I want to upgrade from an HDD to an SSD, but I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out which SSD I should get.
Computer Info: I have a Lenovo ideacentre 510A-15ICB. This is the
spec page and this is the
manual. I've gone over both of them several times, but I'm confused about some of the wording.
I've tried to find information on the kind of motherboard I have, but I think it's some kind of bespoke model that's now discontinued. The best I could find is the
replacement product page which just has pictures, no other real information.
Pictures of the inside:
https://imgur.com/a/Pc5y9qd My questions: Under "storage support" on the spec page, it says "M.2 SSD up to 512GB." Does this mean I can only get an M.2 SSD that's 512GB or less? Or does that mean this model only comes pre-built with an SSD 512GB or less?
Under "storage type," a chart lists the following options for M.2 SSDs:
- M.2 2242 SSD PCIe NVMe
- M.2 2280 SSD PCIe NVMe
- Intel Optane Memory M10 PCIe NVMe, PCIe 3.0 x2
I'm confused about which generation of PCIe is compatible. Is it 3? Is it 1? What's "Intel Optane Memory M10"? Also, is the slot for installing an M.2 size 2242 or 2280?
I don't want to make this post too long, but please let me know if there's more info I should provide! Also, sorry if these are silly questions.
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2024.05.14 15:22 Beingnoob27 Laptop potential mb death?
My laptop won't turn on! It shows the powered on lights and charges up and even gets warm as if in use, but the keyboard also doesn't work. So far I have tried force shutdows by holding power button, disconnecting the extra ram I had installed, disconnected the SSD and replacing with an hdd, disconnecting the keyboard, disconnecting the CMOS cable and the main battery then holding the power button for 30-1min. But so far none of these things help.
Is my motherboard potentially dead? It's an old lenovo IdeaPad 310-15isk.
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techsupport [link] [comments]
2024.05.14 09:58 aygupt1822 Looking for Upgrades for my Home server Lenovo - M710e
So, I am running my Home Server on Lenovo M710e SFF. It currently has Core i3-6100 with 8gigs of Ram. I have also put SSD in it and removed the HDD, so there is no HDD.
Here are the Platform Specifications. I am running many docker containers and I will probably ran out of CPUs in the future.
My PSU has MAX Power Supply for 130W. I don't want to put GPU in it and probably never will.
I was wondering if I can upgrade it with some other CPU having more cores/threads probably Xeon ? Since i3-6100 uses LGA1151 socket so some xeon cpu which uses same socket type.
I am open to all suggestions. Thanks
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http://rodzice.org/