Inspired by a thread from the Beam forums, here's a question. They can be whatever you want, but can't find in the game as it is right now.
For me:

1. Ford Model B/V8-style car, all the hot rod goodies included.
   
2. 1960s Gavril truck - part 1960-66 and 1967-72 C/K/Blazer, part 1961-65 and 1965-71 Dodge D/W.
   
3. 1960s/70s European Gavril economy car - mainly based on the Mk1 Escort (rally!), but with inspiration from the Kadett B and Cortina Mk2 (e.g. US-spec models).
   
4. Early 1970s American fullsize luxury car, mainly based on the 1971-76 Fleetwood 60 Special and 75 (including hearse and ambulance models).
   
5. Jaguar XJS-like sports car, including a small block V8 swap option.
   
6. Ibishu 350S/Galatea - kinda like a 350Z, but with another Reliant homage in the form of a Scimitar GTE (or just Volvo C30) inspired retro shooting brake rear.
   
7. 00s/10s Ibishu pickup and SUV, with the pickup based on the D40 Navara/Frontier and KA L200, and the SUV based on the R51 Pathfinder, KG Pajero Sport and Endevour.
   
8. A remastered Gavril MV4 from RoR, but this time reimagined as a Holden Commodore VE/VF equivalent, with export models inspired by the Pontiac G8, Chevrolet SS (but also including V6s), Vauxhall VXR8 (ditto, plus a V6 diesel) and EU-spec Chrysler 300C. Also include a Commodore/Magnum/300C Touring-style wagon, and the obligatory ute.
   
9. A Tesla Model 3/Y equivalent, the game's first purpose built EV and a representation of the world's most popular car.
   
10. A new Bruckell truck - 14th gen F-150 meets 5th gen Super Duty meets 5th gen Ram, from a 1500 (including a Lightning-like EV) to a 5500.
    

Hi all - I benefitted a lot from the posts on this sub, and I wanted to contribute my own experiences too. My wife is a US & NZ citizen, and we submitted my application through consular processing. I'm a New Zealand citizen. My interview was this morning, and it was a good experience.

1. I-130 submitted - 02 March 2023
2. Active review - 17 August 2023
3. Active review 2 - 05 February 2024 (I could see my approval notice that evening)
4. I-130 approved - 06 February 2024
5. Transfer to NVC - 11 February 2024
6. Documentarily Qualified - 04 March 2024 (delays were in getting UK & NZ police reports, and 2023 tax filing)
7. Interview letter - 29 March 2024
8. Interview - 08 May 2024 (verbally approved, not updated in CEAC)

All round quick & positive experience with the interview, though with a small moment of stress after my first interview. This is perhaps too detailed, but I benefited from the very long reviews of this consulate when I was preparing.
I was lucky to have received at 08.00 appointment, so there were very few people waiting & I was seen fairly quickly. The embassy is a 10-15 minute walk from Vauxhall tube station (Victoria line & National Rail). I followed Google Maps, which had me walk to the 'Official Entrance' and past that to Consular Services. I recommend bringing some water and maybe a book - there is free WiFi. I completed my medical 16 days prior.

• Security

At 07.30 I first went to the US Citizen queue (just after the visa queue) after getting confused from reports on this forum about which line to take. They directed me to the Visa queue, but told me to go directly to the security desk & push in line. It felt uncomfortable to do that, but you need to - there were easily 30 people in line waiting to enter the security queue, which was already 30 people deep too. I told the gentlemen at the desk I was there for an immigrant visa interview, he asked for my DS-260, passport, to confirm my full name and appointment time. He told me that I was too early & to get a coffee from the cafe down the road, and to come back at 07.50 and to skip the queue again.
I had a flat white at Sendero Speciality Coffee, which is within viewing distance of the queue. Excellent coffee, and they have lockers for storing bags if you need it.
At 07.47 I made my way to the security queue desk again, and they took my passport & took me to the front of the queue. Phone & passport in the jacket pocket, through security, if you bring water they ask you to take a sip of it. After that is your check-in for your interview.

• Check-in

I believe this is where the red & blue tents/lines are that are mentioned in other reports. There were two queues - one for US citizens (no one in it), one for non-immigrant visas. The queue was very short so I just waited a few minutes in the non-immigrant visa queue. I was checked in at 07.53, so that's how short it was. If the queue was longer, I would have gone in the blue line (citizens). They checked my DS-260 & passport again, and then assigned me a ticket number with directions where to walk.

• Interview #1

Being first thing in the morning & early, there were only a few people in the waiting room. It's well lit, very clean, and the seats were comfortable. At 08.18 my number was called up for the document checking part of the interview. It was completed shortly after at 08.25. I was asked:

• What's your wife's full name?
• How long have you been married for?

I was then asked to provide originals for:

• Passport (NZ)
• Birth certificate (NZ)
• Marriage certificate (NZ)
• ACRO police report (UK)
• NZ police report
• Courier confirmation email (this caught me by surprise, but I had it)
• Passport photo (I provided some from the photobooths in UK post offices, and he cut out the photo from the set of 4)
• Phone number (UK)

My fingerprints were scanned. I was not asked to provide photocopies, but I had them ready.
The NZ police report is not provided to the individual - it's sent electronically to the US Embassy in Auckland, and the gentleman taking my documents said that it was not in their system. I asked him to double check, given there are reports that the embassy uploads it in the wrong place or with the wrong name sometimes. He went out of sight to look, and then returned a few minutes later saying that they did not receive it from the embassy in Auckland. He was aware that they send it electronically, directly to the embassy. This was bad news to me, and I was drafting up an email to send to the embassy in Auckland and NVC for when I leave. I was then given a document about spousal rights in the US.

• Interview #2

At 08.57 I was called up for my second interview. I was very stressed about this one, now knowing that there was no police report for NZ & I was expecting to be denied & sent to administrative processing. I was about to ask the lady if she could again please double check, but she said she'd talk about that later (in a polite way). I was asked:

• Agree to the oath of truth
• What's your wife's full name?
• Where does she live?
• When did she move to the US?
• Did you both live in NZ & the UK together?
• When did you meet?
• How did you meet?
• Was she on a college abroad program when you met?
• How often do you visit her?
• Have you read the document about your rights?

It was a very casual, very comfortable interview. She was polite but professional. The lady then informed me that the questions were over, and we would now talk about the police report from New Zealand. She managed to find it uploaded in their system - I'm not sure if it was in the wrong place, but after my very stressed 30 minutes of waiting I couldn't have been happier. She told me that we're all done, that I was very prepared with documents, and that she has approved my CR-1. I might have been a little bit too loud celebrating, because everyone in the waiting room looked at me when I was finished. Sorry if you witnessed that - there's not as much privacy in the booths as I had first thought!
I received my original documents back after this interview, but they retained my passport to put the visa in.
I'm now awaiting the confirmation email, and when I can pick up my passport from DX on Chancery Lane.

Hi, I'm kinda struggling here; any advice welcome!
I was about to buy a Toyota Corolla 2020 automatic hybrid, but I'm an infrequent driver at the moment and was told that hybrid tech is not worth it for low mileage drivers (likely less than 5-6k miles a year). Also, not driving the car frequently would just ruin the battery.
So I started looking at Honda cars, most automatic are also hybrid but there are a couple Honda Civic 2020/2021 which are petrol + automatic (hatchback 1L vtech turbo) but I'm wondering if those Honda Civic are really non-hybrid and the seller just screwed up the listing...
Regardless, after checking the Honda forums, it seems like that engine is not that good and the general consensus was to go for the 1.5L but that's out of my budget of £15k (also something something about timing belt change that costs £2k).
Please don't mention the Honda Jazz, seems to fit what I need but awful design, it's frustrating me to no end..
I started looking at Hyundai Ioniq hatchback but they're all hybrid as well...
On Autotrader, cars from 2020+ and petrol + automatic are cars I'm not interested in, mainly due to bad/mixed ratings/reviews (Vauxhall Crossland, Ford Focus, Citroen C3/4, etc).
Are all automatic cars just hybrid since the past few years? Any recommendation for a Toyota-reliability level automatic petrol car from 2020+ and under £15k?
(For those wondering, I passed on manual but really prefer automatics.)
edit: I should add that I looked at Toyota Aygo & Yaris but the backseats and boots are too small for my needs.

I have installed a towbar onto my 2003 Astra G 1.6 8v njoy. I'm currently trying to wire up the tow socket, and I noticed underneath the plastic trim that Opel already has a nice plug with all the relevant wires.
All of those wires check out, apart from the yellow-black brake wire. Whatever I do, I do not seem to get a voltage there. I could ofcourse splice it off from the actual brake light wiring, but I would rather do it the proper way.
After some searching around I found that I have a light control module 9135156, which checks if the bulbs for the brake lights are still intact. If the car has this module, it will need an additional relay 90463123 installed to also have this "light bulb check" on your towbar.
On a Vauxhall forum, the process of installing the relay is described in detail for a Vectra. Supposedly, the relay holder is right next to the light control module, mounted to a steel beam behind the glovebox. I removed the glovebox of my Astra G, found the light control module and a yellow empty relay holder, but not the black relay holder that I was expecting to find! The wiring leading up to the yellow holder is also complete different from what I see online.
I cannot find the relay holder anywhere. Not even the wiring that is supposed to lead to it. The schematics online do not show it's location either.
I need help to find out where this relay holder lives.

I (27F) am buying my third car but have had zero input for my last two cars (partner and sister always told me what to get). I had a Vauxhall (opal) Corsa and a Vauxhall (opal) agile. Both relatively crap in a lot of people’s opinions but I found them great.
I want to take the next level and get a more modern/mature car next. My partner says go for BMW, Mercedes, Audi. I don’t think that I’ll get a great one for the money I have to offer (c£12k) and the insurance for any of those is far higher than what I am paying now. My sister says to get a Kia Ceed or a Hyundai I30 but from this forum, I can see that they are unpopular.
I have been looking at the ford focus and Nissan Qashqi but really feel like I have no idea what I am doing.
Any input or suggestions welcome.
I think that the main things I am looking for is reliability, affordable, petrol or hybrid up to 1.6L and also some bells and whistles such as nav screen, sensors, cruise control maybe :)
Thank you 🥲

I recently faced a frustrating issue with my Corsa's clutch pedal - it wasn't returning fully. After taking it to a garage, I learned that a little white clip on the pedal had snapped. The repair cost was almost £1000, as Vauxhall only offers a full pedal box replacement for around £600.
I decided to take matters into my own hands. I designed and made my own version of the clip, and it works great - it's even stronger than the original. I've listed them on eBay if anyone else is facing the same problem.
I've spent a lot of time designing, testing, and improving this part, and I've sold quite a few, even to some Vauxhall garages
I'm posting this on a Vauxhall forum to let people know that I've made this part and it's available if they need it. I understand the frustration of dealing with a faulty clutch pedal, and I hope this solution can help others too.
If you're interested, check out the link below. Thanks for reading, and I hope this helps someone out there!"
Vauxhall Corsa E, D, Adam Clutch Pedal Spring Retaining Clip eBay
https://preview.redd.it/dhf3ygho96kc1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c77a7aad6f9eb1b4ebbd6641bf0aca6f58737e2f
https://preview.redd.it/1syyjhho96kc1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d607bc425da08f35eb8a94c3bfef42ef75c0fcc
Bulked this up also to provide a much stronger and secure fit.
https://preview.redd.it/eo6lzguc96kc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=974931ecc2f785712f8e9629ca0978f310571d3d

Hi all looking for a bit of advice,
I’m currently driving a 12 plate Astra 2.0cdti on ~68k miles. It flew through it’s mot in December as it appears to have done all it’s life. However, I’m torn as to wether it’s worth keeping for much longer. First off, I’m anxious about the oil puckup seal that the forums say is made of chocolate. Secondly, while it does have full service history, there is no record of the timing belt ever being done. I am also getting a fault code thrown which I’m led to believe is a glow plug on its way out - not a problem i thought, £30 a set i thought, until looking and finding out that you have to get the ones with the pressure sensor which are ~£80 each. Other than that there’s the usual servicing, plus 2 tyres (they’re fine but don’t match across axle and that bugs me)
Doing some fag packet maths this means i’d be looking at spending around £800-1000 on maintenance in the coming months, and I’m debating wether this is worth it for a 12 year old vauxhall.
Alternatively I imagine I’d get about £2k for it part-ex, so would be looking around 2k for a replacement of similar size.
In terms of usage I’m doing a 20mile round trip to work and back 4/5 days a week, and the occasional linger run for days out/camping holidays when not at work, so not sure wether I’m doing long enough drives to warrant a diesel either.
Thanks for your help!
EDIT: Thanks all for your thoughts, it seems I am being an idiot looking to get rid of one shed for another. I guess I saw £ signs and panicked a bit.

Hello.
My wife had her Vauxhall Corsa written off by another driver last week and as we are expecting our first child she wanted to replace with something more practical. We went to a dealership near us which has listings online and after doing research my wife had her eyes on the 2020 Vauxhall Grandland 1.2.
Finance approved we had the car on the Thursday and drove it down to her parents house the same day which was about 50 miles away with no issues.
The next day when driving back the engine oil pressure warning came on and the car lost power. We were on a dual carriageway but luckily we were able to pull off into a slip road. We were towed back to the dealership and were told as it was the weekend they could not do anything courtesy car wise and the car would be looked at on Monday.
Today they have not given us any actual update on the status of the car and again said they had no courtesy cars available. Having read on the Vauxhall forums, this appears to be an ongoing issue with their Grandlands?
Will the dealership fix the issue or try and sell us a different car?
Is it worth fixing? It’s 2020 and has done 30,000 miles so far, would it be a new engine or a new belt needed?
Do we have to stay with the dealership if finance has been approved? Really awful service from them so far (appreciate this isn’t a mechanical question sorry)
Again sorrry if this is wrong forum to post in, trying to find a solution for my wife who is feeling shit about the whole situation.
Cheers

Forgive me if this is a vague question, I know the first rule of this forum is skoda good vauxhall not good. I had recent experience of vauxhall corsa 2022 hire car ... and it wasn't that bad. There was some vibration/ knock in gear lever but for 30000 miles 2 year hire car. It was fine . I wonder if change in ownership from American to French led them to some improvement? Any long-time vauxhall owner, could you share if you notice the difference between made during two difference ownership.
Have a good day.

Right, a bit of a strange one, I have been looking over many forum posts and would like to try and get to the bottom of this without needing to get the mechanic involved. I have a used Vauxhall Insignia (144k on the clock). Recently, when driving around town I have noticed a rattle coming from the engine bay at very specific RPMs. It seems to be appearing at 1100rpm and 1500rpms (not in-between) and is a medium to high sounding rattle from the engine bay.
NOTE: This is only when in gear and engine is under load, no rattle in neutral, all smooth!
You do not really get it when driving with a heavy foot, cruising at high speed does not cause any rattle noises but only at low speed (sub 35/40mph) town/urban driving.
Looking through forums, I have tried some things shown on the image (yes, the picture is the opel version!) typical rattle points such as Airbox, ECU holder and some plastic bits that might touch from the engine cover. Do others have suggestions?
I do not think there is any major mechanical issue, no clutch vibration or any vibration generally. Engine is smooth when revving in neutral, and normal driving.
​
https://preview.redd.it/nw2pfr5bxvbc1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d2e962768452264116cf8471e96b53041ac77624

Right, a bit of a strange one, I have been looking over many forum posts and would like to try and get to the bottom of this without needing to get the mechanic involved. I have a used Vauxhall Insignia (144k on the clock). Recently, when driving around town I have noticed a rattle coming from the engine bay at very specific RPMs. It seems to be appearing at 1100rpm and 1500rpms (not in-between) and is a medium to high sounding rattle from the engine bay.
NOTE: This is only when in gear and engine is under load, no rattle in neutral, all smooth!
You do not really get it when driving with a heavy foot, cruising at high speed does not cause any rattle noises but only at low speed (sub 35/40mph) town/urban driving.
Looking through forums, I have tried some things shown on the image (yes, the picture is the opel version!) typical rattle points such as Airbox, ECU holder and some plastic bits that might touch from the engine cover. Do others have suggestions?
I do not think there is any major mechanical issue, no clutch vibration or any vibration generally. Engine is smooth when revving in neutral, and normal driving.
​
UPDATE: SOLVED - Saw a specialist for the rattle (Vaux Repairs in South Yorks) and they suspected a couple of things. Timing belt was due (and aux belt) and was recommended to get those done, but while that side of the engine was apart they would investigate the two suspected causes of the rattle. While apart, it was found the clutch pulley on the alternator was ceased and could not free wheel anymore. Thats was changed.
Seems whether it was that exactly or something with the timing/aux belt system, the problem is solved and we are smooth as butter now.
​
https://preview.redd.it/nw2pfr5bxvbc1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d2e962768452264116cf8471e96b53041ac77624

Hi, my wife bought a Vauxhall Grandland X from Lookers Ellesmere Port Review = terrible.
I believe you have 30 days with a car dealer to hand it back for a refund
Oil light comes on after 14 days - garage says we will replace the engine (via email)
we get messed about for a while, slow to reply to emails, aren't specific about what they're doing - then say they need to strip engine down to provide some kind of evidence for warranty (we bought 1 year extended warranty)
2 months later - now say they can only replace the belt.
There's a known fault with the type of engine in this car - all other manufacturers recalled the car except for Vauxhall.
We're now stuck with a car that needs a new belt replacing regularly - approx once a year at the cost of 1k according to the grandland forum.
If you don't catch the issue with the belt in time - new engine required 5k to 8k according to the forum.
​
Do we have any rights to ask for a refund - given we were told it needs a new engine and now it's a new belt. I'm guessing car had issues, got patched up to sell to some mug - bit weird that it had an issue after 2 weeks
​
Thanks in advance for any advice :)
​
edit - I'm guessing they must have known it was an issue before they sold the car - can't be 100% sure but possibly dragged the 'repair' of engine out beyond 30 day return 'rights'
​

Hi all, new to this forum.
Was in the market for a new dashcam (context of situation).
Basically need advice on running wire from front dash cam to rear dash cam, I have no issue hiding wires from front dash cam to fuse box, it’s just the other cable that connects front and rear.
Vauxhall Corsa E, 3 door 17 plate.
NextBase 322GW.

It's EV Tuesday!

10th October 2023
Yes it's EV Tuesday time. We hope you are enjoying your weekly newsletter drop of everything EV related. This week we have a fantastic line up for you to enjoy.
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1. EV APP OF THE WEEK: NEXT CHARGE

Nobody ever said that going Electric Vehicle would be easy. But an app, you may rely on in EV situations, makes it easier. From the very first click of your smart phone icon 'NEXTCHARGE' you will be transported to an easy-to-use ‘charging station finder’.The clean, readable interface of NEXTCHARGE will make reading and mapping station locations simple. You will notice your app is displayed in 2 views: map or list. This gives you a choice. Download Here

2. EV NEWS: GOV.UK

Government launches plan to put drivers back in the driving seat. New 30-point plan to support people’s freedom to use their cars and curb over-zealous enforcement measures.Drivers will benefit from smoother, easier journeys thanks to the government’s new plan for drivers, including £70 million to keep traffic flowing and measures to speed up the rollout of electric vehicle charging.

3. EV TIP: SAVE ON SERVICING

Compared to a petrol or diesel car, there are fewer moving parts and there’s less to go wrong in an EV. It’s estimated a switch to electric could save you as much as 20-30% on service and maintenance costs compared to an ICE (internal combustion engine) vehicle.

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Jeep Avenger
Jeep Avenger: Before we start, let’s add some background, because Jeep isn’t quite the all-American brand it once was. Now a member of the giant Stellantis group (it also includes Fiat, Peugeot, Citroen, Vauxhall and Alfa Romeo, to name but a few), Jeeps are now mixed heritage.
In fact, the Avenger is the first Jeep to be created outside of America. Not only was it designed in Italy, but it’s built in Poland and shares Stelantis’s e-CMP2 modular electric platform with the Peugeot e-2008, Vauxhall Mokka Electric and DS 3 E-Tense.
Until next time. Have a fantastic week!
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I see this all too often on forums, reddit, Facebook groups and the likes, people who see Mazda RX8s and think it might be a viable first car. Now, I'm not here to tell you to do it, or tell you to run away from it screaming, I would rather you make an informed decision from someone who's actually done exactly what you're trying to do, have an RX-8 as a first car, and their second car, and a third one later on, and an RX-7 too for good measure. So I've prepared a guide for those who wish to own one, what to expect from the car and what to expect from your bank balance. To an extent, this would also serve as a buying guide for RX-8s in general, but the running costs take into account someone in their late-teens, working full time, but still living with their parents (i.e. an income but with little outgoings)
THE CAR So the Mazda RX8 is a 4 seater rear wheel drive saloon/coupe made between 2003 and 2012. All UK cars have front fog lights, climate control, 6-CD stacker, manual gearbox (although imported Automatics do exist), traction control, limited slip differential and multiple airbags. You can pick them up for as little as £1,000, although you can spend north of £10,000 for a Late R3 model THE ENGINE The engine in the car is a 1.3 Wankel Rotary Engine, meaning you don't have pistons, but instead two triangles rotating on a crankshaft in a chamber. Those triangles are your rotors. There is two variants of this engine, the 192 and 231, which is the car's metric power output. The easiest way to tell which is which is that the 192 doesn't have headlight washers, and the rev counter goes up to 9, a 231 has the washers and rev counter goes up to 10. There's about a half second difference to 60mph between both cars, and the 192s have a 5-speed gearbox the 231s have a 6-speed.
THE BASIC RUNNING COSTS An RX8 is a very thirsty car. You will be lucky to get 23mpg on a motorway run. Round town, you'll be in the mid-teens. In regular daily use, expect to get high-teens, maybe 20mpg if you are lucky. Road tax is varied on these cars. Pre-2006 cars have lower road tax, £395/y, whereas 2006 onwards are £695/y Road tax, so bare this in mind when choosing a car. Servicing will be about £185 for oil, plugs and filters (assuming you're doing the job yourself).
INSURANCE When I owned my car, I was 19 and living in the East of England in an okay area, not good not terrible. I was paying £1,900 a year for my insurance, with a black box fitted (I think it was with Admiral). However, times have changed, inflation has hit like a tonne of bricks, so prices will be different. Prices also vary massively depending on where you live, what you do, how much you drive, if you got any No-Claims on your learner's (of which I had 1 year), what exact car you get. Honestly there's a huge amount of variables.
Let's do a hypothetical example. I've made up a person, let's call them 'Corey Taker'. Corey is 18, just passed his test, and wants an RX8 as a first car. He works full time in retail and lives at home with his parents, planning to keep the car on the driveway. They live in Essex, UK. He will be using the car for work, and estimates he will be driving 6,000 miles per year. The car he has found is a 2008 Mazda RX8 192, and is worth £2,500. Corey has a years no claims he built up on his learner's on his mum's Ford Focus Diesel, and his dad will be on the insurance as a named driver. Punching this information into CompareTheMarket, the cheapest insurance quote is £2,496.83 per year, with a black-box. Paying monthly is a bit higher, £222.20, with £352 down. Naturally this is a just an example, your results may vary depending on the aforementioned factors.
The reason it's so dear is because its a high power, rear drive car thats cheap to buy, so a potentially high risk vehicle in the eyes of the insurers. The insurance company also consider these cars as a 2.6, since that puts them in similar insurance classes as cars of comparative performance.
So to run the vehicle, fuel, based on the example mileage, and 148.9p/L for fuel, is £169.28, assuming 500 miles a month and 20mpg average. Road tax we will assume a worst case, £70 a month. Insurance is £222.20, so a quick bit of maths, and running the car is £461.48 per month all in. Now, assuming you have a full time job, and mum and dad aren't charging much for housekeeping, that is definitely doable. Obviously, a Vauxhall Corsa is a cheaper alternative, but I assume if you're reading this your girlfriend isn't 15 and you don't touch kids, hence why you don't want one of those, so if you can afford that, excellent, read on good sir.
ENGINE ISSUES These cars have a somewhat poor reputation for engine issues. This usually occurs between 80-110,000 miles, depending on how well the car has been looked after. The issue is the seals on the tips of the rotors wear out, which is an engine strip down and rebuild job. This is something only a specialist would be able to do, as most garages won't work on rotary engines, including Mazda main dealers. Depending on what specialist you go to will depend on the price. Essex Rotary's base price is £3,000, Rotary Revs will charge £1,900, and Ryan Rotary Performance charge £2,000. Now, bare in mind that no two rebuilds are the same, as you may have other things that need replacing, or parts you decide to replace or upgrade as preventative maintenance, so it's important to discuss these with the specialist before you go ahead to consider your options and the final price. The alternative to a rebuild is swapping out the old engine for a good used one. While this may fix the issue, it won't be as long lasting as a Rebuilt engine. You could also cut your losses and buy another, but no two cars will go bad at the same point, so you could end up going through two cars in a year, or having a second car that lasts 5 years.
SPOTTING THE ENGINE ISSUES The biggest tell-tale sign is hot-start problems. Once the car is up to temperature, if the car is turned off, when you turn the car back on, it will either struggle to start or not start altogether. You can help the issue on an early car, since later cars were fitted with a stronger starter motor, but that's like curing tiredness with a cup of coffee, it's a short term fix to a long term problem. If you are looking at a car, go on a test drive, and at the end, once its up to temperature. Shut off the car, then turn it back on again 10 seconds later, and see how long it takes to start. The longer it takes to start hot, the closer you are to needing a rebuild.
PREVENTING THE ENGINE ISSUES Service your car on time! Every year or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first. Use semi-synthetic oil, not fully-synthetic, that kills the engines. The RX8 burns oil by design, you need to use oil that burns well. Once a journey (where it is safe to do so), take the car up to the redline. This will clear any carbon deposits in the engine and keep the engine clean. Also given it burns oil, be sure to top up and check your levels often. Something a lot of people do is "Premix", which is adding 2-stroke oil to the fuel when you fill up. Regular 2-Stroke will do, but you can get special Premix oil designed for Rotaries. To prevent issues with flooding, make sure you let the car get up to temperature every journey. If you need to move the car, let it idle and warm up before shutting it off. Be sure to tell anyone that drives the car this! Deflooding can be a pain depending on the severity of the flooding. While not linked to the hot-start problems, check the ignition coils. They get very hot by design so need replacing more often than on a conventional car. Easy way to spot the issue on the standard coils is a discolouring on the top of them.
TYRES This may seem like an odd thing to bring up, but RX8s can be very skittish when fitted with budget tyres. Be sure when looking at a car or replacing your tyres to have good brand tyres. Uniroyal Rainsports make for very good wet-weather tyres on RX8s.
RUST Being an up to 20 year old car, RX8s are suffering with issues of rust nowadays. Check the sills as this is where they go first, especially on cars fitted with the optional side skirts, as moisture gets trapped underneath. Also check the rear arches for rust. Due to rust becoming a more mainstream issue with these cars, repair panels do exist, so these can be patched up nicely. The front wings also like to rust, but this isn't as big of a deal as they are bolt-on wings. They also rust around the centre brake light, but again, boot lid is a bolt-on panel.
That's pretty much everything in regards to RX8s I can think of, aside from the standard used car common sense problems. If you know any other things to do with RX8s, feel free to share them

What is it I would need to do. Advice would be so appreciated as I have been stuck with this problem for a while now.
P2463 Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Soot Accumulation OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description Article by Stephen Darby ASE Certified Technician Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Soot Accumulation What does that mean? This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to all 1996-newer diesel vehicles (Ford, Mercedes Benz, Vauxhall, Mazda, Jeep, etc.). Although generic, the specific repair steps may vary depending on make/model. In my encounters with a stored code P2463, the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a restriction (due to soot accumulation) in the diesel particulate filter (DPF) system. This code should be exhibited only in diesel powered vehicles. Because DPF systems are designed to remove ninety-percent of carbon particles (soot) from diesel engine exhaust, soot accumulation can sometimes lead to DPF restriction. DPF systems are critical in facilitating automaker’s compliance with strict federal guidelines for clean burning diesel engines. Modern diesel powered vehicles smoke far less than the diesel powered vehicles of yesteryear; primarily due to DPF systems. Most PDF systems function in a similar manner. The DPF housing resembles a large steel muffler which contains a filtration element. Theoretically, large soot particles are trapped by the filtration element and exhaust gases are allowed to flow through and exit the tailpipe. In the most common design, the DPF contains wall fibers that attract larger soot particles as they flow into the housing. Less common designs rely on a loose web assembly that fills virtually the entire housing. Openings in the filtration device are sized so that larger soot particles are trapped within; exhaust gases flow through and exit the tailpipe. When the filtration element has accumulated an excessive amount of soot particles, it becomes partially clogged and exhaust back pressure increases. DPF back pressure is monitored by the PCM using a pressure sensor. Once back pressure reaches a programmed limit, the PCM initiates a regeneration procedure of the filtration element. Cutaway photo of a diesel particulate filter (DPF): A minimum temperature of 1,200-degrees Fahrenheit must be reached (inside the DPF) in order for the filtration element to be regenerated. The regeneration system uses a specialized injection system to accomplish this. The electronically controlled (by the PCM) injection procedure introduces a flammable chemical compound, such as diesel fuel or diesel exhaust fluid, into the DPF. Once the specialized fluid has been introduced, soot particles are incinerated and released into the atmosphere (via the tailpipe) as harmless ions of nitrogen and water. Once the PDF is regenerated, exhaust back pressure drops within acceptable limits. Active DPF regeneration systems are initiated automatically by the PCM. The process usually occurs while the vehicle is being driven. Passive DPF regeneration systems require driver interaction (after the PCM has presented a cautionary warning) and normally take place after the vehicle is parked. Passive regeneration procedures may take hours to complete. Check your vehicle information source to see with which type of DPF system your vehicle is equipped. If the PCM detects exhaust pressure levels that fail to reach a programmed limit, a P2463 will be stored and a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) may be illuminated. Severity & Symptoms Because DPF restriction may lead to engine or fuel system damage, this code should be considered severe. Symptoms of a P2463 code may include: Other DPF and DPF regeneration codes will likely accompany a stored code P2463 Excessive black smoke from the exhaust Inability to produce and maintain desired RPM levels Increased engine temperature Overheated DPR housing or other exhaust components Causes Possible causes for this engine code include: Excessive soot accumulation due to insufficient DPF regeneration Bad DPF pressure sensor Insufficient diesel exhaust fluid Incorrect diesel exhaust fluid Shorted or open wiring to the DPF injection system or exhaust pressure sensor Defective PCM or a PCM programming error Faulty exhaust pressure sensor Diagnostic and Repair Procedures A good starting point is always to check for technical service bulletins (TSB) for your particular vehicle. Your issue may be a known issue with a known fix put out by the manufacturer and can save you time and money during diagnosis. A diagnostic scanner, a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), and a reputable vehicle information source (such as All Data DIY) are just a few of the tools that I would use to diagnose a stored P2463. I begin my diagnostic process by inspecting all system related wiring harnesses and connectors. I would carefully inspect harnesses that are located near hot exhaust components and sharp exhaust shields. Other DPF and DPF regeneration codes should be repaired prior to attempting to diagnose and repair a code P2463. I would proceed by connecting the scanner to the diagnostic port and retrieving all stored trouble codes and freeze frame data. This information can be useful later, so I like to write it down prior to clearing the codes and test driving the vehicle. If the code is immediately reset, use the DVOM and follow manufacturer’s recommendations for testing the DPF pressure sensor. If the sensor does not comply with manufacturer’s resistance specifications, it must be replaced. If the manufacturer’s recommended DPF regeneration procedures have not been followed, suspect an actual DPF restriction due to excessive soot accumulation. Initiate the regeneration procedure and see if it rectifies the excessive soot accumulation condition. Additional diagnostic notes: DPF pressure sensor hoses/lines are prone to clogging and collapse Incorrect/insufficient diesel exhaust fluid is a very common cause of DPF regeneration failure/soot accumulation If the vehicle in question is equipped with a passive regeneration system, follow manufacturer’s DPF service intervals carefully to avoid excessive soot accumulation Related DTC Discussions Register now to ask a question (free) 2012 Ford Transit p2463 Limp mode My ford transit went onto limp mode the one code is p2463 how do I fix it... Scoda Octavia CRMB Engine. Particle Filter Problem P246300, P245800 Hello Everybody, Has anybody faced the problem with DPF system? Two DTCs returns all the time: P246300: Particulate Filter Restriction - Soot Accumulation Bank 1, P245800: Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration Bank 1. Fuel Quality,Engine Compression,Differential Sensor and its pipes are checked... P2463 Mercedes Hello, I have a 2012 Mercedes w212. I got error code P2463. What should I do?... Audi P2463 audi A3 2014 1.6tdi clh motorcode, geeft p2463, alleen deze code, rijd en trekt goed, na lang rijden (meer dan een uur) gaat hij soms in noodloop. contact even af en terug op gaat hij weer normaal. kan moeilijk geloven dat de dpf verstopt zit omdat hij nog normaal optrekt. verschildrukschakelaar vd ... 2012 Silverado Duramax 2500 P2463 We have the code P2463 show on our code reader. Can someone please give us answers on what that means and how to fix it ?? Also, show engine power is reduced. Thank you.... Mercedes Sprinter Code P2463 Hello I've just installed a new dpf unit but seem to have a check engine light and the error code P2463, I don't have any other error codes and all though my dpf unit Is brand new and less then 1 hour old fitted on the van it's reading 169% full and 1 bar back pressure. Could this be due to a faul... Need more help with a p2463 code? If you still need help regarding the P2463 trouble code, please post your question in our FREE car repair forums. Share NOTE: This information is presented for information purposes only. It is not intended as repair advice and we are not responsible for any actions you take on any vehicle. All information on this site is copyright protected. Contact us All content © 2004-2023 OBD-Codes.com

I have a 2015 vauxhall Mokka, mileage approx 52,000, body in excellent condition, bought (in the U.K.) from a Vauxhall garage in 2018, and I take it back to that same garage every year for a service and MOT.
It’s booked in again next week but the garage have called me twice now to say that they have buyers ‘lined up’ for my car, and would I be interested in selling it back to them?
Fair to say I don’t know much about cars, and I’ve never been in this situation before (a garage actively trying to buy back an 8 year old motor!) but when I told a friend the garage want to buy my car, they said it’s likely because my car has some sort of chip in it, that is hard to come by?
Can anyone shed any light on this chip? Or, even just advise what I can look up myself to find out more about it? Want to ensure that if I do decide to sell, I am fully informed, and getting the best deal I can is all.
Apologies if this is the wrong place to post (I am going to try to post both here and in Vauxhall) and if so, please do kindly redirect me to the correct sub/forum! Thank you!

I have a 2015 Vauxhall Mokka, mileage approx 52,000, body in excellent condition, I bought it bought at 32,000 miles from a Vauxhall garage in 2018, and I take it back to that same garage every year for its MOT.
It’s booked in next week for a service and MOT, but the garage have called me twice now to say that they have buyers ‘lined up’ for my car, and would I be interested in selling it back to them?
Fair to say I don’t know much about cars, and I’ve never been in this situation before (a garage actively trying to buy back an 8 year old motor!) but when I told a friend the garage want to buy my car, they said it’s likely because my car has some sort of chip in it, that is hard to come by?
Can anyone shed any light on this chip? Or even just advise what I can look up myself to find out more? Want to ensure that if I do decide to sell, I am fully informed, and getting the best deal I can is all.
Apologies if this is the wrong place to post (I am going to try to post both here and in mechanicadvice) and if so, please do kindly redirect me to the correct sub/forum! Thank you!

Hi Guys,
I'm a new poster on the forum and was wondering if anyone could advise me, on handing a HP car back.
In July 2022 I traded in my Focus ST for a 1.4 Astra via Arnold Clark (17 plate with 30k miles - due to it being nigh on pointless in me having a car as I only drive it about 5 miles a day).
About 3 weeks into owning the car, the clutch went and had to be totally replaced. Since then I've had numerous other engine issues and issues with brake light wiring etc. These have been dealt with by Arnold Clark under warranty which is fair enough. However, recently (Dec 22) I had another engine issue and had to send the car away to get a whole new engine fitted by Vauxhall.
Today I got the car back and after the 2nd time of turning it on it flashed up on the dash the, now more than familiar 'Check Brake Light' warning came up on the dash.
With all of these issues over such a short period of time I'm far less than happy and want to hand the car back, I've had a look at consumer rights but I'm finding it rather confusing as to what my actual rights are.
If anyone who's had a similar issue could assist with some advice it would be appreciated.

A 4x4 best suited to the wild roads of Cheshire
The Clarkson Review: Range Rover Sport
By Jeremy Clarkson (Sunday Times, Jan. 8)
People know when they buy a Range Rover that they are not getting the last word in reliability. I’ve never had an issue with mine but I know from dinner party conversations and frothing-at-the-mouth internet forums that they’re about as bulletproof as a Russian armoured personnel carrier that’s being used to keep time on Namibia’s railways. And that the dealers very rarely have the part you need in stock.
Then there’s the bothersome business of thievery. I played tennis the other day with three guys, two of whom had had their Range Rovers nicked the night before. The word on the street is that the electronic code that’s transmitted when you press the button on your key fob is simply not complicated enough.
And yet, despite the threat of getting up in the morning to find your car isn’t there, or won’t start, almost all my friends have one. And I’m not talking here about Evoques or Velars or Discoveries. I’m talking about the real deal. The big boy with the split folding tailgate. My local pub is surrounded every Friday and Saturday night by a wall of them because round these parts that’s not a car. It’s a uniform. And I went on a shoot last week where 27 were being used to move fat men in tweed shorts from peg to peg.
The reason is simple. There is no alternative. Sure, there are plenty of big 4x4s out there, but none of them even gets close to matching the towering abilities of the king. It’s like an iPhone. I know you can buy other devices but you don’t, do you, because the fact is they’re not as good.
I have two Range Rovers. One is a fairly battered old L322 model from the days when BMW ran the shop. I use it almost exclusively on the farm, so it’s currently full of logs and it smells of dog. I think it has Ford Transit van in its DNA, that thing. It’s a proper workhorse. A mud magnet.
The other is a slightly more fancy-pants fourth-generation model that Lisa uses to go from Daylesford to Soho Farmhouse, and just recently I was toying with the idea of replacing it. Lisa wanted a Vauxhall Astra because it’s her new favourite car. I wanted another Range Rover because I adore them. Until I saw that prices for a well-specced one with a proper engine start at about £130,000. I was amazed. So amazed that I thought I’d better have a look instead at the new Range Rover Sport.
The old Range Rover Sport was no such thing. The Brummies did a pretty good job of disguising the fact, but I knew that underneath it was actually a Discovery. The new one isn’t. It’s built on the Range Rover platform and the model I tested has a Range Rover engine. By which I mean a BMW 4.4-litre V8.
The problem this car has, though, is that it’s not a proper Range Rover. It doesn’t have a split folding tailgate and the boot isn’t wide enough for my 12-bore. And you know that some of the off-road ability absolutely must have been compromised to make it feel more “sporty”.
To find out how much, I took it on a shoot and learnt almost nothing. Sure, it had all the buttons that can be pressed to tailor the car for the prevailing conditions, but there wasn’t a setting that enabled it to deal with the combination of big, fat, low-profile tyres and wet grass. So I spent the day slithering about like everyone else. Only they laughed at me more as the car I’d borrowed was dog-lipstick scarlet.
This, then, is a car designed primarily for the roads of Wilmslow, which means that, unlike its imperious big brother, it must be compared with a million rivals from Bentley, Audi, Porsche, Volvo, BMW, Mercedes, Rolls-Royce (if you’re blind), Maserati and Aston Martin. Even Ferrari has a Cheshire car like this up its sleeve.
Do you want any of them? Really? Because with the possible exception of the Volvo, which is more of a school-run car, they do all seem to be a bit unnecessary. Unnecessarily heavy, unnecessarily tall and unnecessarily thirsty. Sure, the V8 in the new Sport will average about 24.5mpg, which is remarkable, really, but imagine how much more you’d get if the car weren’t so … big.
It is fast, though. You get 523 horsepowers, which means you can get from 0 to 62mph in less than five seconds, and then keep on going all the way to 155mph. But if you do that you won’t get 24.5mpg. Instead you’ll get a call from some seismologists in California asking what on earth you’re up to. And if you wouldn’t mind stopping.
Handling? Amazing, really. You can happily stick it into a bend knowing that a billion algorithms will happen to make sure you don’t come out on the other side on your roof.
My only real gripe with the way it drove was the hill-hold facility, which would disengage only after a fairly brutal stab on the throttle. This meant that getting out of a tight parking space could be a bit fraught. And filled with the sound of fracturing plastic.
This aside, you’d have to put the Sport right up there among the very best of the Cheshire specials. If conspicuous and unnecessary consumption is your thing, this is comfortable, quick, sure-footed and not quite as thirsty as you might imagine. Things start to fall down a little bit, however, when you get out of the driver’s seat and look at it. Land Rover’s styling has been top notch in recent years, but with the Sport, I dunno, it’s too slab-sided somehow. It’s as if there are acres of metal in the doors and the front looks like the Post Office Tower.
I have a similar issue with the interior. It’s great to see they’ve used some kind of cloth on the door linings, but why not fit it on the seats as well? Or go for wool, because unlike the leather you do get, it holds you more securely in the corners, is less susceptible to temperature variations and is kinder to the nation’s sheep farmers. Also, the central command and control set-up is still far too counterintuitive.
Ultimately, though, the biggest problem is to be found at the back, where there is a single tailgate, like you’d find on a Vauxhall Zafira or a van. It means that when you’re out and about there’s nowhere to sit. And as you stand there with your back throbbing and your knees begging for mercy, you’ll realise that you’ve bought second best.
It may be a good car, and I’m sure it’ll go down well in the footballing suburbs of Britain. But you have to know that if you buy one, or any of its rivals, you didn’t buy the real thing. Certainly I think I’m going to have to do that, unless I can find one to steal.
***
The Clarksometer: Range Rover Sport First Edition P530 AWD Automatic
Powertrain: 4395cc, V8, twin turbo, petrol
Power: 523bhp @ 5500rpm
Torque: 553 lb ft @ 1800rpm
Acceleration: 0-62mph: 4.5sec
Top speed: 155mph
Fuel / CO2: 24.5mpg / 261g/km
Weight: 2,505kg
Price: £116,190
Release date: Register now
Jeremy’s rating: ★★★☆☆
***
Head to head: Range Rover Sport P530 versus Porsche Cayenne Turbo
Price: £116,190 / £112,400
Power: 523bhp / 542bhp
0-62mph: 4.5sec / 4.1sec
Top speed: 155mph / 178mph
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Once again, no Sun column this week.
Clarkson's columns are regularly collected as books. You can buy them from his boss or your local bookshop.

I just wanted to send a quick message to the forum to ask for some ideas about a newly discovered sound my clutch has started making. The noise, a slight squeak, appears when both depressing and releasing the clutch. Noise can become quieter and louder. I can only assume it’s the clutch spring and having taken a quick look online it seems to be a common Vauxhall problem and with other cars. My first thought was just to grease up the spring, but any other ideas/known solutions would be helpful. Thanks.