All right, I’ve tried everything and at this point, I think I’m losing my mind. I’ve upgrade my MIJ Mustang bass to Nordstrand NM4 PUPs. I wired everything to this schematic. I did all of this with new 250k audio pots, new switchcraft jack, and orange drop capacitor. I’m not the best at soldering, but I’m not a beginner either. Now, I have a hum that wasn’t there before. Here’s the trouble shooting steps I’ve taken and there’s still a hum:

1. Ground the bridge. Tried several different positions for the wire on the bridge. Even shielded the little cavity the wire comes out of below the bridge. I even tried scratching the bridge up to make better contact.
   
2. Shield all the cavities. I also grounded the shielding in the cavity below the control plate to one of pots.
   
3. Took a piece of wire and tried ground every. Single. Piece. of metal to the ground on the jack. I even tried to temp a ground from the PUP ground to the shielding and the jack
   
4. Tried a different 1/4” TS cable
   
5. Tried the amp on multiple circuits in the house.
   

The only thing that seems to stop the hum is grounding the open lug of the tone pot to something which obviously doesn’t work. I think it just shorts the whole circuit. It also goes away with the tone pot all the way down, but that makes sense.
So, any thoughts? Is it just the way it is with this type of PUP? Thanks in advance for any help. Let me know if I can provide more info.

i got a 2007 chevy silverado classic and i’ve been trying to wire my double din radio to it but it dosent want to turn on. I have wired the 12V wire into my ac wire that only is on when the truck is on and then the battery to the battery in the harness and ground to ground but it still doesn’t turn on. BUT it turns on when i put the 12V red wire with the constant battery wire but if i have those then the radio won’t turn on so now i don’t know what to do

Has anyone found a way to mount a second battery and the center basket together?
I saw mrcentraldriver mention in a vid it might be possible by adding spacers to a bottom battery to mount it within the basket

I replaced the battery on my DX7 (original MK1) and sometimes it still says "CHANGE BATTERY!". But sometimes it will boot up and just get stuck on the bootup screen saying "YAMAHA DX7 SYNTHESIZER". No matter what I try it won't do anything. Is there some method to factory reset it? I only have ROM #3.
Also, I've checked with a voltmeter and I'm getting 3 volts and continuity. It's wired correctly (I'm using a holder with wires soldered to the PCB). All of the connectors are installed. It was working fine with the old battery (but of course it was still saying "CHANGE BATTERY!". I had the board out with the battery out for a while as it's quite dirty.
This is the holder: https://analogclassics.com/product/battery-replacement-for-yamaha-dx7-dx7iid-fd-dx21/

Guys I need help I fried my old amp so I got a new one but now my remote turn on wire has no power all fuses are good checked them all with a voltage meter ground and wire coming from battery are both getting 12v still can anyone help? I have a kenwood 2000watt amp

Hi all! This is a rather comprehensive guide for newcomers to PC gaming to help understand the relevant technologies when it comes to docks, peripherals, external storage and monitors. This should help navigate the sometimes conflicting and confusing advice online and enable you to make buying decisions based on your personal needs.

Cables, Power Delivery and 30W Turbo

(More info regarding cables under Data Transfer - Cables)
Cables and Power Delivery
All USB C to C cables built to spec are capable of providing 20V@3A for a maximum of 60W. For any higher power output, there are different protocols and the Ally uses the Power Delivery (PD) protocol which is common for laptops - If you already have a laptop with USB C charging, check to see if its charger supports PD charging since you could use its charger with the Ally and vice versa.
The PD protocol requires a handshake where the power source, whether it be a charger or power bank, communicates its different capabilities (eg. 15V @ 3A = 45W, 20V @ 3.25A = 65W, 20V @ 5A = 100W, etc.) and the device communicates what it can safely receive over the USB cable. This communication requires an E marker chip built into the USB C cable which allows the power source to deliver up to 48V @ 5A = 240W, although it is more common to find the older 20V @5 A = 100W cables. The E marker is also what allows you to plug in a high output PD charger to charge much lower powered devices without frying any components since the charger will keep to a safe/low power output until the E marker communicates the capabilities on both ends.
The Ally uses the 20V @ 3.25A (65W) PD power profile and any USB C to C cable with an E marker should work for the Ally as long as your charger or power bank can deliver the aforementioned 20V @ 3.25A.
Note: Sometimes cables just aren't built to spec and cheaper cables might not work as intended or fail quickly. The E marker chip malfunctioning is a primary reason why your charger and cable combination might suddenly stop working as intended and not deliver the 65W to the Ally even if it did earlier - in most situations, it might just drop to 20V @ 3A (60W).
30W Turbo requirements
As far as the ROG Ally is concerned,

• If a 20V @ 3.25A PD profile (or higher) is powering the device, the device will allow up to 30W to the GPU.
• If the Ally can't draw at least 20V @ 3.25A, it'll max out at 25W to the GPU.
• USB A to C cables simply cannot provide the higher output PD wattages. Some USB A to C cables (OnePlus/Oppo ones for instance) use proprietary pin layouts to achieve higher power output up to 100W but these are proprietary implementations and won't work with the Ally.
• PD charging requires a USB C to C cable (or PD chargers with attached cables like the original charger)

How to enable 30W Turbo
If you're connecting the power source directly to the Ally, i.e. not using a hub:

• The original charger works flawlessly as well as any similar ones from reputable laptop brands (HP, Lenovo, etc.) that use PD and have the 20V @ 3.25A profile as well.
• If you're using a power bank or charger with a removable cable, make sure it supports the same PD profile as mentioned above and use a USB C to C cable with an E marker. Any cable with an E marker should reliably provide at least 100W since the minimum spec is 20V @ 5A.

If you're connecting the Ally through a dock/hub:
This is where things get interesting. Without getting very technical, USB specifications are set by the USB Implementers Forum (USB IF). For docks and hubs, the specification states that USB devices should be able to draw power at the port with max power draw specified. For USB 3 devices, this max power draw is 5V @ 900 mA (4.5W at the port) and for USB 2 devices, this max draw is 5V @ 500 mA (2.5W). This is why most docks and hubs have their own power requirement, around 15W usually but may vary, so that power is reserved for the USB ports. Depending on the device connected, this power draw can vary - a portable spinning hard disk drive will draw more power than a dongle for a wireless mouse for instance. Insufficient power to the ports can manifest in many ways such as USB devices disconnecting and reconnecting, HDMI intermittently disconnecting, etc.
I haven't been able to test this so please take this section with a grain of salt - docks that support 30W Turbo with the original charger don't seem to meet the official USB IF specs since the dock must be exposing the Ally to the 20V @ 3.25A PD profile without reserving any power to the USB ports. I haven't been able to confirm this myself as all the docks and hubs I use reserve around 15W for the ports and require at least 80W+ PD to allow the 30W Turbo mode. Based on my digging online, it seems like some people have no issues using these docks while others have reliability issues such as the ones I described earlier.
To summarise, enabling 30W Turbo mode reliably on the Ally when connected to a dock or hub requires (should require?) the following:

• A charger or power bank capable of 80W or higher PD profiles since the hub should ideally be reserving power for itself to prevent issues on the ports (usually around 15W but can vary).
• Like earlier, if you're using a removable cable with a charger or power bank, make sure to use a USB C to C cable with an E marker chip.
• Potential option if you have a 100W power bank that supports PD passthrough - in this scenario you can plug in your original ROG Ally charger to the power bank (65W input to the power bank) and then connect your dock to the power bank (up to 100W to the dock). I can confirm it works with this power bank: https://www.amazon.ca/imuto-26800mAh-Portable-Charger-Charging/dp/B0BC7NJHCW

If you don't care about playing on 30W Turbo mode,
As mentioned earlier, all USB C to C cables should be capable of at least 60W. Using a charger with any lower PD profiles such as a 45W charger will not cause any damage or harm, you might just lose battery even with a charger connected but that's about it. I often use my 25W phone charger or even Nintendo Switch charger - reliable chargers will not damage your device.

Data Transfer

General info
Mbps, MB/s, Gbps and GB/s - there's a difference.
You'll often see the terms Mbps or MB/s (alternatively Gbps or GB/s) used to refer to USB speed, storage speed, internet speeds, etc. but it's important to note the difference.
Mbps = Megabits per second, MB/s = Megabytes per second
Gbps = Gigabits per second, GB/s = Gigabytes per second
Data transfer is usually measured in Megabits per second, Mbps (or Gigabits per second, Gbps). Your internet speed is a great example of this. Files and any storage in general is measured as Megabytes or Gigabytes. To work out file transfers in Megabytes or Gigabytes per second use the following:
8 bits make up 1 byte and 1 Gigabit = 1000 Megabits. To keep things confusing, 1 Gigabyte = 1024 Megabytes.
If your internet service provider is providing a 1 Gigabit connection it works out to 1000/8= 125 Megabytes per second, i.e. a file that is 250 Megabytes will take 2 seconds to download. (Note: real speeds will always be lower due to network overhead, congestion, distance to servers and a bunch of other factors.)
A breakdown for the things most relevant to the ROG Ally:

• USB 2 ports, cables and devices max out at 480 Mbps, ie 480/8 = 60 Megabytes per second. These shouldn't be used for file transfer since they're slow but work great for peripherals such as keyboards, mice, webcams, wireless dongles, etc. These devices tend to use very little bandwidth and won't saturate a USB 2 port.
• USB 3.0 ports, cables and devices max out at 5 Gbps (5000 Mbps), ie. 5000/8 = 625 Megabytes per second. Ports on most docks max out at these speeds.
• USB 3.1 (also known as 3.1 Gen 2 because USB naming convention is a hot mess...) ports, cables and devices max out at 10 Gbps (10000 Mbps), ie. 10000/8 =1250 Megabytes per second.

The Ally's USB C port is USB 3.1 Gen 2 with DP Alt mode so the max transfer speed you can get from the Ally is 10 Gbps. Ideally you should look for docks and cables that are capable of 10 Gbps.

• USB 3.1 Gen 2x2: 20 Gbps, ie. 2500 Megabytes per second. Although the Ally can't achieve these speeds, you might find enclosures or portable SSD's operating at these speed at comparable prices to 10 Gbps ones when on sale. Just worth keeping an eye out for.
• USB 4/Thunderbolt: up to 40 Gbps, ie. 5000 Megabytes per second. if you have a device capable of USB 4/Thunderbolt I would recommend looking into a Thunderbolt dock/hub but otherwise they are overkill for the Ally since the dock will operate at lower speeds and some USB 4/TB features in the dock won't work at all. These hubs and cables require in depth certification making them very reliable but also very expensive.

Other notable mentions:

• A functioning SD card slot in the Ally (UHS-II): maxes out at 312 Megabytes per second
• LAN (1 gigabit): 125 Megabytes per second
• LAN (2.5 gigabit): 312.5 Megabytes per second
• WiFi 5: Typically 866Mbps, ie. 108.25 Megabytes per second
• WiFi 6 (80 Mhz channels): Typically 1201 Mbps, ie. 150.125 Megabytes per second
• WiFi 6 (160 Mhz channels): Typically 2402 Mbps, ie. 300.25 Megabytes per second

WiFi 5 and 6 speeds are theoretically MUCH higher but this is what most people can expect from their routers to their device - including crappy ISP provided routers.
For LAN and WiFI, these are the speeds you can expect on your local network and NOT the speed your ISP provides to the internet. Your local network is what you are using when you stream in home from a PC or console to the Ally using something like Steam Link or Sunshine. Or if you access storage on your network (NAS, Plex server, Jellyfin, etc.)
Real speeds will always be lower across the board when you account for any overhead such as the Windows File system, background tasks, network overhead etc.
Data Transfer - Cables
Make sure you're using a cable that can match the speed of the device, ie. if you're connecting a USB 3.0 device, make sure the cable also supports USB 3.0 at least. Similarly, you need to use a 10Gbps USB cable to achieve 10Gbps data transfer speeds. Using higher spec cables should always work reliably with lower spec devices too, such as using a 10Gbps cable with a USB 2 device will just operate at USB 2 speeds.
NOTE: A cable containing an E marker chip does not necessarily mean it can do video or even USB 3.0 file speeds. The E marker chip is unrelated to data transfer capabilities. In general, most 100W E marker cables only work at USB 2 speeds if used for file transfer, unless they explicitly state other capabilities.
I've personally had great reliability with 240W E marker cables though and it's been much easier to find reliable cables that provide 10Gbps data transfer, 4K 60Hz video output and any level of PD required all through one cable. I suspect the reliability mainly comes from the more stringent certification process required for 240W PD. These cables can be chonky though.
Can games run from an SD card, external hard drive, external SSD or USB flash drive?
Short answer, yes.
Longer answer, yes, but keep the following in mind:

• For most games, you will see a difference in terms of load times taking longer when running from external storage - the game performance should be identical though. Games which explicitly state they need internal SSDs can also work from removable storage but your mileage may vary. Forza Motorsport for instance throws a warning message upon launch but you can safely ignore it without issue.
• Some launchers work better with removable storage for games. Steam, Epic Games and Ubisoft have all worked great for me but games from XBox have had issues with updates breaking game files. Most launchers will allow you to select removable media for storage though.
• The Ally might not recognize games that are installed on removable storage if the storage isn't plugged in when you turn the Ally on. Basically, if you're not seeing a game you have installed, shut down the Ally, connect the storage device to the Ally directly or through a dock and then turn the Ally back on. The games should reappear and be playable.

My advice would be to install any game you intend to play only while the Ally is connected to a dock on external storage devices, otherwise install them internally. For instance, I only play Ace Combat when I'm connected to my TV so it made sense to install it on external storage that is always connected to my dock and TV.
External storage - What should I use?

• Cheap option - If you have an old laptop, PC or console that you no longer use, consider reusing the internal HDD or SSD from those devices in an enclosure. The form factor and connectors vary so make sure to buy the correct one. Spinning hard drives will be slower and depending on age, might not be the most reliable so keep that in mind.
• Using an M.2 SSD in a 10Gbps enclosure. I personally prefer this method since you can find M.2 SSDs frequently going on sale and it allows you to reuse the drive internally in a future PC build. If you don't want to go this route though, you can look into external SSDs from the likes of reliable brands like SanDisk, Samsung, Western Digital, etc. which offer comparable speeds to M.2 SSDs in an enclosure.
• USB/USB C flash drives (thumb drives) - I personally only recommend using flash drives to move data rather than for storing data but no harm if you want to install games on them.
• SD/Micro SD Cards - I wouldn't recommend buying one given the Ally's SD slot issues BUT if you already bought one or have any cards laying around, consider using an external card reader to plug into your dock/hub or to the Ally directly. Read/write speeds vary based on the card and reader but keep in mind that the Steam Deck runs games off its SD card slot (UHS I) which only has a max speed of 104 Megabytes per second.

What's the best keyboard, mouse, controller for the Ally?
This will entirely depend on you - There are three main ways to connect and each has its pros and cons. The way you personally see these pros and cons will help you pick.
Wired devices:
Pros - lowest latency in most cases, no need to recharge devices.
Cons - need a dock to connect more than one device and you'll need to manage cables.
Bluetooth:
Pros - cable free, no need for a dock to connect to your devices.
Cons - some latency, need recharging/batteries, connectivity issues are common.
Wireless dongles:
Pros - cable free, lower latency than Bluetooth and some devices have latency comparable to wired performance.
Cons - still need a dock if you require more than one dongle, dongles often use 2.4Ghz protocols and might have crazy interference with poorly shielded devices around them.
Some devices will offer more than one way to connect - I've found them ideal for the Ally.
My peripherals (not recommendations per se, rather my use case since all were bought for an existing work from home/gaming PC setup)
Keyboards:

• Keychron K4 (V2): 3 devices over Bluetooth or wired. The Bluetooth has always been slow to connect with any device so I use it wired with my gaming PC. Otherwise, excellent mechanical keyboard.
• MX Keys Mini: 3 devices total over Bluetooth or Logi Bolt dongle. Very little input latency with the dongle but I stick to Bluetooth personally for the convenience. Much smaller than the Keychron K4 too and quicker to connect on BT so my go to for the Ally.

Mice:

• Logi M720 Triathlon - 3 devices total over Bluetooth or Logi Unifying receiver - Works perfectly regardless of using Bluetooth or the dongle. My go to for the Ally on Bluetooth for the convenience.
• Surface Arc Mouse - 1 device, Bluetooth. Overpriced and uncomfortable to use for long periods of time but it folds flat so I use it if I'm travelling with my Ally.
• Logi G502 SE - 1 device, Wired. Often regarded as one of the best wired gaming mice. I've used it with my gaming PC for about 4 - 5 years and have no complaints.

Controller:

• XBox Controller - Wired, Bluetooth or XBox USB adapter - pretty standard. The AUX port on the controller works if you're using the XBox USB adapter which is great.
• 8BitDo SN30 Pro - Wired, bluetooth. I believe the newer version has hall effect sticks. Triggers aren't analogue though - they are buttons.
• GameSir T4 Cyclone Pro - Wired, Bluetooth or Dongle. Hall effect sticks and triggers, lots of customizability, haptic triggers (only on Bluetooth mode though), gyro support - my go to for the Ally.

Displays

HDMI vs DisplayPort
Like any data cable, HDMI and DisplayPort carry data but in the form of audio/video data. DisplayPort can carry more of this information based on the most common version available, ie. DisplayPort 1.4 which supports up to 32.4Gbps. The most common version for HDMI is 2.0 which supports up to 18Gbps.
DisplayPort is preferred for gaming PCs generally since they are better at communicating capabilities such as FreeSync capabilities, HDR capabilities, etc. which is why most monitors use DisplayPort, especially modern ones.

• For TVs - Use HDMI
• For Monitors - Use DisplayPort if your monitor and dock both support it

DP Alt mode and USB C monitors
The Ally along with numerous phones and laptops support video out over USB C using what is known as DisplayPort Alt Mode (DP Alt Mode). This only works over USB C to USB C.
Some newer monitors support this and can be driven by just one USB C to USB C cable. They might also provide USB PD power.
Portable monitors also use DP Alt Mode to work over USB C. For HDMI, they use a standard HDMI to mini HDM and you need to plug in power when using HDMI. I haven't come across a dock that supports DP-Alt mode on its USB C ports making it impossible to drive a portable monitor over USB C with a dock (HDMI obviously will still work.)
Thunderbolt hubs may have USB C ports which allow DP Alt mode but in my experience they downgrade these ports to only USB 3 (without DP ALT mode) when connected to something that isn't Thunderbolt.
I only have experience with the Arzopa A1C (1920x1080, 60hz, 15.6 inch display) but here is my takeaway:

• Decent picture quality - think iPad level screen, better than what I was expecting frankly and same resolution as the Ally so I don't even change my settings.
• It was not mentioned anywhere in the manual/online but this does 50W PD passthrough. I plug in my charger to the monitor and use a USB C cable from the Ally and everything else I use is wireless. Pretty portable.
• Has an aux port if you want to plug in headphones/speakers to it directly.

Common misconceptions for anyone used to console gaming or new to PC gaming
(Note: The section below is only relevant to native resolution output without any frame gen or upscaling such as RSR, FSR, AFMF, etc.)
I've seen numerous posts asking "will this __inch monitor work?". Your physical screen size does not matter. The pixel count does. A 24inch 4K 60hz monitor will be just as hard for the Ally to run as a 60inch 4k 60hz TV.
For the Ally at its native 1920x1080 resolution at 120 frames per second, the GPU has to render 2,073,600 pixels, 120 times per second.
When you connect your Ally to a 4K 60Hz TV and try to output at your TVs native resolution of 3840x2160, the Ally has to process 8,294,400 pixels, 60 times per second.
Essentially, you will never get the same performance hooked up to a 4K TV at native resolution compared to running a game at the Ally's native 1080p resolution.
The same goes if you're looking at 3440x1440, 2560x1440 or any resolution when considering a monitor. In terms of "will it work with the Ally?" The answer is always "yes it will work" since the Ally is a PC, but adjust your game settings or your resolution accordingly.
Simply put, the higher the resolution (and frame rate), the more pixels the GPU needs to render, the bigger the performance hit.
I can put together a detailed AMD Adrenaline and general game settings guide if there's interest.

Things to keep in mind while buying a dock or hub:

• Form factor - If you want to use it with other devices consider getting a different form factor than the standard dock shape (the classic Steam Deck and ROG Ally dock where it sits with a non removable right angled USB C connector).
• Will my case work with it? Personal example - I put a JSAUX case on my Ally and it doesn't fit in my dock anymore. The case has a stand though so still fully functional but just doesn't look as "clean".
• Should ideally reserve power for the USB ports to avoid random issues.
• Be capable of 65W passthrough after reserving power to the dock.
• USB ports speed - ideally you should aim for a dock or hub featuring 10Gbps ports to use the max bandwidth of the Ally's port. Most docks and hubs max out at 5 Gbps however which is also adequate.
• Monitor support - consider if you would prefer one with DisplayPort or HDMI - few will have both. If you're mostly connecting to TVs, HDMI will be fine. If you have a monitor with FreeSync, ideally look for a dock with DisplayPort.
• Multi monitor - If you want to connect to multiple displays, you need one with multiple outputs since you will not be able to daisy chain docks. Keep an eye out to avoid DisplayLink however. It is NOT the same as DisplayPort - it drives video over USB 3 (USB 2 even) but involves compression and some other proprietary work happening on the dock - absolute non issue for productivity/office work but just not for gaming with its own overhead.
• Consider one that has a removable cable to host - being able to use your own cable length can be great but just make sure it meets specifications (E marker, video and USB 3.0 at least for it to be usable with a dock and the Ally)
• LAN port speed - most cap out at 1 gigabit but you might come across some with 2.5 gigabit ports.
• Consider if having an SD card slot or M.2 enclosure built into the dock/hub is something that you need.

My thoughts on the docks/hubs I own
All of them work pretty identically and offer 4K HDR, 30W Turbo, etc. when connected to a 100W PD charger. The ports are all USB 3.0 so max speed of 5Gbps. I’ve mentioned anything of note

• Aceele - https://www.amazon.ca/Docking-Compatible-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Charging/dp/B0CF57SZY5 - Has an On/Off button on the front for HDMI which can be handy. Works with the Nintendo Switch too surprisingly.
  
• Dockteck - https://www.dockteck.com/collections/usb-c-hub/products/usb-c-hub-ethernet-hdmi-6-in-1-usb-c-to-4k-60hz - Some strain on the USB port due to the form factor.
  
• Lionwei - https://lionweitech.com/products/usb-c-docking-station-dual-4k-hdmi-8-in-1 - Separate USB 2.0 port, dual HDMI and a removable cable. The cable out of the box stopped working after a month but the hub itself works great.
  

Other handy accessories

• Jsaux 90 degree USB C to C adapter - they come in a 2 pack and can be used at the same time to form a 180 degree adapter - https://jsaux.com/products/90-degree-right-angle-usb-c-male-to-usb-c-female-adapter
• Pluggable USB C extension cable with multimeter - reliably extend any USB C cable and check power draw - https://plugable.com/en-ca/products/usbc-meter3-1mf

Thanks for reading and hope it helps!

Generally say, electric ones are better. Beside the power source, the pump, pipe and valves have no quite difference. The the most advantage of electric ones are much less maintenance and last longer, you will save a lot of headaches and time. Less cost averagely, environmentally friendly. The only burden is the power cord.
For the gasoline and diesel pressure washer, other than frequent maintenance, also it needs very knowledge people to fix in case of engine problems. With time, it’s hard to start up, battery and wiring caused. www.BlastWashPro.com

So I found out about this game through the Wiki. I had no idea there was a Famicom game, 2 Super Famicom games, 4-5 PS1 games, Game Boy games, Dreamcast, DS games about Mini 4WD. All -JPN only. This one seems to be the most like actually playing Mini 4WD in real life. So I download the Shining Scorpion ROM and start playing it on an emulator. I'm pretty lost since I can't read Japanese but I recognize the parts you can buy. They are dead-on like the real parts. Right color gears, endbells, wheels, rollers, all of it. So I'm motivated to learn it.
3 days after downloading it I see what looks like the cartridge in a local game store. No way. Only way I knew was recognizing the Japanese logo from the emulator. I ask the guy working who could read a little Japanese and he was like "Yeah it says 'Shinning' Scorpion Racing". My city isn't known for having a lot of import games at all unlike a coastal city so it was crazy! I get it home an put it next to my home track box and see the Japanese "Yonku" on both. Break the Super Famicom lockouts off of my SNES and fire it up. It's it.
This was way better than using the emulator since it already had a save on it. Whoever had it before grinded their brains out on the track in the first hobby shop in order to be able to buy all this stuff from the hobby shop in the second town. Unfortunately there is very little English documentation of this game and talking to NPCs to learn more is impossible for me. Problem now is course outs on the track where you race against the guy who looks like a 1940s cartoon depiction of a monkey with a bow tie. I have added all the weight possible to my car. Front, side and rear 19mm rollers. Wide rubber tires (the game seems to like these for stability even though few people race with wides today -- some things the game likes aren't how things are done 25+ years later) Tried dual rear rollers both high and middle plus low and it wasn't as stable. Hyper Dash 1 motor, Rev Tuned and Torque Tuned are too slow and still course out sometimes. Even with Hyper Dash I am still 2nd place at the most before eventually coursing out. Both types of 4:1 gears and the 5:1 gears all course out. Switching to 1.2v batteries from 1.5v doesn't stop it either. Car is very heavy. Anybody else played this one and did well?

Hi! I'm in the market for a new set of headphones, and I have a lot of boxes I'd like to check, if possible. I'm not even sure where to start, so I came here.
What aspect of your current listening experience would you like to improve?
I've owned the Steelseries Arctis 7 Wireless for as long as they have been around. After several years of daily use, the ear cushions have ripped beyond repair. I loved the headphones and will never be able to go back to anything wired. Curious to see how far wireless/bluetooth technology has come, and if there are any good jack-of-all trades headsets out there for me to check out. I would love to be able to edit videos, play PC games, and listen to music from my iPhone with the same set of headphones. While I produce video content professionally, I am not a sound designer or audio technician, so I'm not too concerned about paying up to get premium sound quality.
Budget - ~$200 USD
Source/Amp - Wireless to Windows laptop and/or iPhone 13.
How the gear will be used - I create video content for my job, so video editing would be the primary use. I do like to game in my free time, so an integrated/detachable microphone is a plus. I don't take gaming that seriously, so the ability to hear footsteps from across the map isn't that important. I would also love to be able to use headphones at the gym by connecting to my phone, but not a dealbreaker.
Preferred tonal balance - Not too picky here. Balanced is probably my best bet.
Preferred music genre(s) - Everything except for heavy metal.
Past gear experience - Steelseries Arctis 7 Wireless. Loved the battery life, retractable microphone, volume dial and game/chat audio balance dial. The mute button was handy too. Such a reliable and durable headset that lasted me over five years with no technical issues. Didn't like how they sat on my head and how quiet they felt. I played all of my games on max volume (admittedly, I never messed with the Steelseries software so this maybe could have been fixed). Headphones were comfortable, but didn't feel secure. If I wanted to connect them to my iPhone, I needed to use the cable and a lightning dongle.
MUST HAVE:
Wireless or bluetooth capability for Windows 10, adequate sound quality for video editing and gaming, microphone (detachable or retractable... would like to wear these in public without looking like a pilot 😂)
BONUS:
Compatible with Windows 10 AND iOS, volume dial, game/chat audio balance dial, mute button, travel friendly
I understand if my criteria and/or budget is a little too restricting, so don't hesitate to let me know that. My knowledge of headphones is super limited, so I need all of the help I can get! Thank you so much!

Hey Everyone,
Running into 3 weird issues when I try to use my PS5 Dualsense Wireless controller with the Retroid 4 Pro over BlueTooth.

1. When I try to map the controls in RetroArch, is seems like a "Mouse 1" button is stuck so no matter what I try to map, it gets mapped immediately to "Mouse 1". I'm only seeing this when I try to use it with the PS5 controller.
2. When I try to use it with Dolphin, it gets recognized as "DualSense Wireless Controller" and the Start, Select, and Right Analog sticks are not recognized. What's weird here is that if I use a wire to connect the controller to the Retroid, it then gets recognized as "Sony Interactive DualSense Wireless Controller" and works. Almost like they are recognized as 2 separate devices?
3. When I use the wired option in Dolphin, the game runs great but anytime I press the "B" button (square on PS5 controller), the menu opens up and stops the game like that key is mapped to the Retroid "Back" button.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated! I love this thing but these controller connection issues are stopping me from being able to REALLY utilize it. Thinking they're all just settings/setup issues.

Hey everyone. I've been dabbling with Linux for a long while (started with Mandrake way back when)...with full installs, dual booting, experimented with different distros, etc. But now I need help with something:
I own a 2014 MBP. This thing has been rock solid since I bought it brand new. Had the battery replaced, swapped the original internal SSD with a bigger one (used to be 250 GB, now 1 TB. Still going strong). However, the absolute last version of MacOS it'll take without tinkering is Big Sur. Now that this version has been officially out of support, it's only a matter of time before the apps I use on the regular will stop getting security updates (planned obsolescence, I know it sucks, but that's how the cookie crumbles I guess). The other day I got the idea of dual booting the machine and putting Kubuntu on it. I chose this distro because I'm very familiar with the Ubuntu family since the beginning, and I prefer a KDE-style UI where I can get up and running quickly. Mind you, my days of experimenting with Linux have dwindled, and now I just want an environment where I can get work done. Most of my tasks are:

• Web surfing (Reddit, YouTube, eBay, Amazon, etc)
• LibreOffice for editing documents
• VLC for watching videos
• Networking tools in case I need to troubleshoot (Wireshark, FileZilla, Angry IP scanner, etc)
• VPN utility for masking my IP in case I need to
• Terminal
• Thunderbird and FireFox
• And one of the most crucial, an RDP client capable of managing multiple remote connections to the Windows family simultaneously.

Now, even though the OS is retired, everything works perfectly fine. My question is, should I go ahead with it? Or should I just hunker down and keep using it as it is? Since I'm still not 100% there, I need at least some reassurance to get it set up and gradually migrate my data to Linux, eventually replacing Big Sur completely.
Thanks in advance for any feedback. It's much appreciated.

Hello,
I'd like to try fixing this Key Fob that belongs to a 1998 Toyota 4Runner. Not sure what I'll end up doing but judging from the state of things, reverse engineering it and designing a new PCB seems like a fun project I could learn a lot from. I need help identifying the two largest components, and the two tiny dark SOT/Transistor-like components if possible. I can't seem to find anything online and I doubt Toyota has released schematics for the thing as nothing shows up other than ECU wiring diagrams for the vehicle itself... Thanks in advance !

I am renting an apartment that has a garage, but no opener. I have to manually lift the door every time I want to open/close it. I'm super lazy so was thinking about installing a garage door opener but there's a few complications.

• There is a light in the garage, but it is controlled by the complex and only turns on at night for roughly 8-12 hours. There is no other power in the garage
• The garage door is a tilt type which flips up
• There is no doorway into the garage
• This is an apartment complex, so I need to do minimal modifications to the building

I was wondering if people could provide suggestions on the best way to put in a garage door opener? I can't ask them to leave the power on because the timers run all of the evening lights in the complex. I figure putting in an outlet will be too expensive and complicated because it would require hiring an electrician. I'm happy to pay for the cost of the garage door opener, but not an electrician to wire up a new outlet.
The best I could think of was to get a Chamberlain garage door opener with battery backup from Costco (B2215T). It will charge up the battery at night, then during the day, it would run off the battery. I'll probably also install an emergency release just in case the battery fails.
My question about this approach is what works while the power is off during the day? Can I still use the remotes? I don't have any need for the wifi or myQ function, as long as the garage can be opened and closed with the remotes. Will the battery last long enough without power during the 12-16 hour days? Will constantly draining/charging the battery this much make the battery life unreasonably short? Will the battery have enough time to fully recharge in the 8-12 hours it has power at night? Would getting a UPS be a better option? I'd like to get answers to these questions before trying to install the garage, otherwise, I might learn it takes 24+ hours to charge the battery and it dies in 8.
My other question is if these garage door openers will work on tilt type garage doors? I see all the installation instructions for roll up garage doors, but I wasn't sure it works on both.

Hi, if this is the wrong sub, let me know.
I am not tech savvy so excuse the dumb questions.
Just dealing with potential vandalism, want to use a small camera that the vandals not notice. I think it's two different groups doing it but I'm not sure and maybe they just target different things. It happens like once every one to two weeks. Initially thought it's animals.
Anyways, need a small camera, three of them realistically, one over the garage and one over the small garden in the back (it's the size of a pickup truck), and one the front entrance. Prefer wireless or rechargeable battery, though the one over the front door can just be wired, and it could also be placed inside behind the window, but again small enough not to be too obvious.
They need to be able to record high definition for at least 10 hours (during the night).
I've looked at Amazon but it's confusing and I don't know which brands or cameras are reliable. Cheap preferable though I realize you get what you pay for.
Many thanks for any suggestions.