Electrical wiring diagram of hvac heat pump

ever since I was a kid house fires have been on my mind, I think because in preschool one day I read a book that included a house fire and because I was like 3, the concept scared me and got embedded into my mind when it was still in the tiniest forms of development.
i’m an adult and it’s still there. it’s gotten better with me being aware of fire prevention, not overloading outlets or extension cords, blowing out candles, making sure smoke alarms are working, the house is less than 20 years old so wiring should be fine.
but I also feel some little obsessive things creeping up now that i’m back home with my parents for the summer (college student). I mentioned to my parents vacuuming their dryer vent and because they shrugged it off i’ve seriously considered learning how to do it myself. I want to go out to our garage tomorrow and assess for hazards (we also have 2 cats in the garage- in old age they’ve decided to piss in the house so a garage fire has worried me more lately.)
last week in my small neighborhood, a house caught fire and partially burned down from a garage fire caused by a lithium ion battery from an electric lawn device and the fear has been on my mind more ever since (especially since I sleep above the garage). my parents know better than to keep batteries charging or their electronic bikes that use the batteries on, but I have thought about it so much now i’ve considered purchasing a heat alarm for the garage.
I know this cannot be healthy. on the one hand, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with purchasing a heat alarm or cleaning out the dryer vent but I don’t think i’m reliable to calm myself on this anymore.
is this behavior concerning? I think I must look crazy to an outsider but knowing the chances of a fire are never zero I can’t help but putting my time into prevention- maybe too much?

We are looking to replace our water heater with an electric option and are debating between three choices: tankless, heat pump, and standard electric.
From what I understand, a tankless water heater for a three-shower house needs about 150 amps. If we go with the tankless option, which is the most energy-efficient, it would use up most of our panel's amperage.
My mother-in-law has a tankless water heater with a 200-amp service and a two-bathroom house. They also have an electric air conditioner. She claims her water heater is oversized for her house, but I’m not sure that makes sense.
Curious if anyone here has an opinion on this.

Hi everyone!
Im a senior at a canadian highschool I study in, and this is my project for my engineering class.
Currently building a “Solaturbine Shed” in which all power that is used inside the shed is from Solar and wind energy. This setup will never see the local grid.
Currently it is not energized yet because of:

• Missing earthing
• Haven’t ran wires for lights/outlets.

Thing is that, is this the first time i’ve done this. I’ve refered to the electrical code during wiring.
But my other concerns are:
-Will the exposed bus bars be a problem? Its going to be hooked up to a 12v marine battery.

• Should I move the dummy load somewhere else? Im worried that it might heat up, and would be too much for the surrounding wood.

Thanks for checking it out, and I appreciate every bit of advice moving forward.

Hi - Looking for help on setting up nest power connector for nest thermostats in a multizone, heating-only system. I have 4 thermostats in house, but am only planning on installing nests for 3 of them. There is no c-wire, so I understood that I need to put in power connectors (I tried without and it kept giving me insufficient power error). Attached is a photo of panel at furnace, and diagram of power connector install instructions.

1. I assume the terminal on the R upper corner that says 'common' is the common / c-wire terminus?
2. I understand that I need a separate power connector for each zone? (I don't know why there are 5 zones wired on the panel but we only have 4 zones/thermostats that I know about, but let's leave that aside for moment).
3. Do I connect the c-wire limb of all 3 power connectors to that single common terminal? if so, how?
4. Three power connectors draped all over this panel seems unwieldy. Is there a better way?

Thanks
https://preview.redd.it/ab2t184ona0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=edd04d3745e2f8a2eae7234287cd5d8dfcc724e2
https://preview.redd.it/crejestona0d1.png?width=722&format=png&auto=webp&s=dae0fcd5089f0c7053afa391a46948f3672fe938

What would cause a Honeywell Home thermostat (TH8321R1001 model) to self heat up and cause wrong temp readings?
Note I've already replaced thermostat so this is more for future reference.
Over the last weekend thermostat started reading approx 10 degrees (F) warmer than the actual ambient temp. Replaced batteries and noticed area by "button" battery (CP2032) was very warm. I assumed at the time the battery was dying and was trying to draw a charge.
However the situation did not change and the unit maintained a 10 degree difference. I figured unit was faulty and replaced with a big box store Honeywell Smart Thermostat.
After installing new unit I picked up old unit and the temp was reading properly and the area around button was not warm anymore.
No terminals were damaged or showed signs of shorting, same for the wires from the wall. I tore apart old unit and inspected circuit board but it too showed no signs of shorting or damage.
Furnace is a single stage forced air, natural gas. Air con is single stage as well. No heat pump.There is a fresh air damper that was controlled via the thermostat (not being used on current thermostat).
TLDR; Honeywell thermostat showed incorrect temp, found unit was generating heat by button battery. Replaced unit curious as to why it failed like this.

I will apologize for my lack of understanding in advance and the length of this post. With that said, I was under the impression we had a two stage heat pump. The outdoor unit is new and the indoor unit is old. We just purchased the home in August and it was "flipped". I swear...and would bet a limb on it, that during cooling, it would typically kick on stage 2 when it needed to cool more than 4 degrees and keep stage 1 on to keep the air circulation going. I went to turn the air on the other day, and stage 1 flashed (something it has never done either). Stage 1 would kick on but never felt like it had the cooling power as before. I called a technician. A younger guy came out and seemed very knowledgeable. He informed me that didn't make any sense because the outdoor unit is only a single stage. Upon further investigation, there was a blown fuse in the indoor unit along with a "jumper" wire. He removed that and replaced the fuse. It cools but just doesn't feel like it used to. My thermostat is also a single stage cooling thermostat. Am I going crazy? Any insight would be appreciated. Will post pics of unit in comments.

So I have to replace my HVAC unit and I have had a couple of quotes but I have been getting conflicting answers on whether or not I need a two stage unit or single stage. I’m a new homeowner and don’t know much about HVAC but I was told by two technicians that I needed a two stage because the system was overworking itself and would break down if I went with a single stage while the other two said a single stage should work fine. My current unit is 15 years old (Goodman brand) and is a single stage 2 ton heat pump. My home is 1284 sq ft and two stories - the system is a zoned system with two thermostats. Two of the quotes I’m looking at are a Ruud two stage 1.5 ton heat pump and a Lennox single stage 2.5 ton heat pump. Both are about equivalent in pricing at around $9000. My current electric bill is ~$150 so I don’t know how much the two stage with say me as far as electricity. This is also not my forever home, I don’t think I’ll be here longer than ten years which is when the warranty will end. Is the two stage really necessary?

Hello,
We are building a sauna and looking for a sizing advice.

• Our sauna is inside the bathroom and all sauna walls are interior.
• The size of the sauna room is 4ft*6ft*7 ft.
• 4th wall is made out of 3/8" glass and faces the interior of the bathroom (2 glass panels and 1 glass door) + pony wall (where the heater is located). Total area of the 4th wall is 6*7 = 42 sq.ft that has glass area 36 sq.ft and 6 sq.ft of a pony wall (covered with cedar and properly insulated as noted below).
• Sauna walls are insulated with mineral wool rigid board of 4" and aluminum vapour barrier.

I am wondering if Cilindro 6kw (effective size up to 300q.ft) would be sufficient for this setup. We are limited with current electrical setup (having 10 awg wire that can hold up to 30amp at 240 volts). Another possibility is to use HUUM drop 6kW which seems to have higher heating capacity (effective size up to 350 cf). Not sure why at the same 6kW power 'harvia cilindro' suitable up to 300qf and 'huum drop' up to 350cf.
I looked at several sizing calculators that give different effective sizes:

• Using harvia calculator (with L= 1.82, W=1.12, H=2.13, glass door=yes, area of non insulated walls=3m2), which gives effective size = 10m3, and thus 6kw is underpowered. Not sure if I am double counting by specifying glass door and including it in total non-insulated area.
• brochure from bathingbrands gives: 240cf= 4*6*7 + 36sq.ft (non-insulated area)*2 => 6kw is ok
• finnishsaunabuilders calculator seems using the same formula and gives 240cf = 4*6*7 + 36sq.ft (non-insulated area)*2 => 6kw is ok
• thesaunaheater calculator: gives also 240cf for 4*6*7 + 36sq.ft(cold surface) when I choose Harvia option and 340cf if I choose HUUM option.

What would think? Do you know why HUUM is using different multiplier for cold surfaces? (~5 vs 2 for harvia). Is there a way to account that glass surface is interior and thus having lower heat loss than if is was exterior?

Hello, I posted in HVAC but it got deleted. Didn't realize there was this sub for these types of posts.
Today I found my AC condenser (outside) running despite there no call for AC and the ambient temperature was below the AC setpoint. After posting in the other sub, I realized that Rocky Mountain Power was here earlier today and removed their "coolKeeper" device from the condenser outside. I don't know what time there were here, they just came and went with their device. However, some time after that I noticed it's been running non-stop. I don't know if this is the cause or if the condenser would ever run without there being a call for it from the thermostat?? For reference, the HVAC is less than 8 months old and I've only owned the house for a short period. First time using A/C. Heat works great. I do run the fan non-stop so was curious if during fan only time the condenser would ever kick on for any reason. It's an 80% NG gas furnace, single stage, with AC coils on top and condenser outside. It is NOT a heat pump.
I'm kinda thinking it was the removal of the CoolKeeper device earlier today and they reconnected it wrong, it's the only logical explanation but wanted to get others input. Some suggested a contactor but that seems unlikely given this piece of info.

First and foremost, this post is for both consumers and techs, but mostly for techs as I want to see your side of things! I just need some advice on what to do in this situation. Apologies as it may be a little long but your efforts are much appreciated!
So, I recently got a new heat pump installed. I recently posted here getting the opinions of a few, and made a decision on one (I will post the specs in a comment). The company that installed it is a new hvac vendor for me, as I've used a different company in the past, but switched because i liked the owner (who came out to give the estimate), and the prices a little more. I feel all of this is important to mention as part of the background story.
My dilemma with the new unit has been crazy. The new hvac company allowed me to do the uninstall and removal of the old unit, and the new setup in two separate appointments at my request, as i had some work I wanted to do in a tough to reach spot in my basement behind the unit. This is unrelated to the hvac issue, but i thought it was also important to mention that they worked with me on giving me two appts and it was very appreciated.
However, i will say i was not present for the uninstall or install but my father in law was(who is very familiar with this stuff). But, overall, the uninstall and removal went pretty flawlessly.
Here is where the actual issues start:
The install was a little messy. They left a little garbage here and there (and left some behind the unit which was just cleaned. Not a big deal but i wanted to mention). They really didn't give any info on the new thermostat, and all the manuals for it and both the ac and air handler was left in the basement. Again, not a big deal but left us with some questions.
They installed a new outlet for the condensate pump, but didn't ask about where to place it. They put it on the platform (that just holds the air handler but isn't actually fastened to anything) but so low to the ground im worried about it taking on water if it rains hard. i feel they should have cleared the location with me as its very close to normal water levels of this basement (its dirt and from 1890 and a 4 ft tall basement, it's hard to get any water control down here, but im trying).
they put the condensate pump on the ground. Idk if this is normal or not, and my last one was on the ground, but i was hoping they'd put it up higher for the same water issue.
Lastly, i feel like the overall presentation was a little sloppy. there was some open gaps in the vents as pictured, and they didn't even put the label on the outside unit? Idk.
So my question is, what should I do? Am I being too picky? I just feel like i spent a ton of money, and the finishing touches were pretty sloppy. I also have a year maintenance contract with them so i don't want to burn bridges, but i think i should give them feedback. What are the thoughts on this?

I am looking to build a 24’x48’-ish saltwater gunite pool with a built-in hot tub similar to this picture and I am in the early planning stages.
For a little back story, I am a general contractor and own my own underground utility construction business. I started my own business building houses 20 years ago and I have been in commercial construction for the last 12 years. I built my forever home a few years ago and I did all the excavation, concrete prep, as well as 100% of the plumbing and electrical with myself and a few employees. Point being, I can handle every aspect of the pool except spraying the gunite and plastepebble finish. I just want to hear opinions about equipment so that I can start my research and planning based off of that.
I want to do gas heat for the hot tub, a heat-pump for warming and cooling of the pool. Lighted bubblers on the tanning deck. Lots of underwater lighting. Two watefire bowls. Possibly an infinity edge on one side. High quality pumps and filters. High quality automation that works off of an iPhone app, as well as any other add-ons that you can recommend.
I’m looking to use higher-end components that will last 20 plus years but I don’t have to have the top-of-the line just to brag that it was expensive.
What do you recommend?

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So I have a 2015 Iron 883. The previous owner put it in a garage at 55 miles and never touched it again. I've been trying to get it back up to good condition; de-rusted tank, new fuel pump, tires, fluid changes, new brakes, new battery, etc. I haven't had too much issue with it but around July 2023 got a P0107 and P0374 codes. I've put over 2000 miles on it and did the 500 mile break in, 1000 mile service, replaced the MAP sensor, spark plugs and spark plug wires, CKP sensor, HO2S. Harley tech told me in the maintenance history the original owner allegedly brought the bike back to the dealership for the same rideability issue (which is probably why he locked it up at 55 miles) so they diagnosed a defective ECM from the manufacturer, got approval for a good will repair and replaced it for free. Every time they have the bike they do the maintenance, test ride it for 10-20 miles and the codes stay gone. I have it back for a couple weeks and they pop up again and bike starts having rideability issues. They said they don't know what's wrong with it but I'm not paying them another $200-$300 for more troubleshooting if they can't figure out how to fix it. I probed the whole circuit for the CKP and MAP sensors for continuity on all the wires and they show proper voltage when tested with the battery. Both of the sensors seem to work fine and they're new so I don't see the sensors themselves being the issues. Not sure what else could cause both of those codes repeatedly together. I've been scrounging through the service manual as well but there's a lot to sift through. I've also taken it to 3 other mechanics before who diagnosed it ECM before the good will repair so they don't know what else could be the issue either. I grew up on dirt bikes but this is my first real street motorcycle so I'm by no means a Harley tech but any help would be appreciated. I also get this could be hard to diagnose through a sub reddit but if there's anything else that would help, just leave a comment and I could give more info.
TL;DR
Rideability issues - Bike randomly loses power and bogs down for 2-5 seconds at a time, throttle no longer controls anything. DOES NOT lose electrical power, only mechanical power. Does better with this issue at low speeds but is more frequent above 45mph. On 2 occasions has died completely at low speeds or when idle.
Codes thrown - P0107, P0374
Parts replaced - ECM, MAP sensor, CKP Sensor, HO2S, spark plugs & wires, battery
Injectors were inspected, CKP and MAP sensor circuits probed for continuity and voltage. I don't think the bike would bog down and throw both codes if it was just the TPS but I don't know.

Hey you guys, I could really use some advice. I've had my 2010 Audi for about 7 years now and I just paid it off last year. Unfortunately I got the common oil leak issue and had ton deal with a shitty mechanic a few months ago who apparently only temporarily fixed the issue. Now im faced with a $7,000 bill to basically rebuild the engine and replace my turbo as well. Im thinking long-term this would be a great investment to just keep maintaining the car and to avoid financing a new one which in the end would cost me more. I really love this car, its my first Audi, and it's been good to me overall. Should I continue to invest in her or get rid of her? Below is the breakdown of the bill 🥲 :
​
3 - Engine Oil TECH: J Sioch
Note: Severe oil leaks from several areas, including rear vacuum pump assembly front upper and lower timing covers oil filter housing and turbo assembly. codes
range from system lean, multiple misfires, and under boost conditions. smoke testing engine reveals severe leaks from multiple spots including rear main seal,
timing covers, oil filter housing, oil pan. coolant leak from rear heater hose assembly as well. turbo charger has play on waste gate assembly. there is also no boost
felt and when using scan tool, demanded psi is not reached. technician suspects failure between turbo and wastegate. best options for this vehicle is to remove
engine to perform full reseal and turbo replacement, then rerun for possible fuel smells.
Labor:
Remove & Replace Long Block. Consists of a Cylinder Block fitted with Pistons, Rings,
Connecting Rods, Crankshaft and all Bearings, Cylinder Head(s), Camshaft(s), Timing Chain or
Belt and Sprockets or Gears.
Includes (where applicable): Clean and transfer Fuel and Electrical Assemblies, Engine Mounts,
Manifolds, Valve Cover(s), Oil Pan, Oil Pump, Timing Cover(s), Water Pump, Clutch and Flywheel.
Adjust Valves.
22.38 hrs $2,887.02
walnut blast intake valves 1.00 hrs $149.00
Parts: Engine Timing Cover 1 $156.95
Engine Crankshaft Seal Kit 1 $126.46
Engine Crankshaft Seal Kit 1 $46.54
Engine Intake Manifold Gasket 1 $63.85
Vacuum Pump 1 $403.30
Engine Oil Filter Adapter Gasket 1 $29.17
Engine Oil Pan Gasket Set 1 $45.54
Engine Oil Pressure Switch 1 $40.86
, Aluminum Engine Water Pump 1 $427.73
Borg Warner, OE Replacement - 100% New, Upgraded Design Turbocharger 1 $1,737.99
Mahle Turbocharger Mounting Gasket Set 1 $116.14
Fuel Injector Seal Kit 3 $116.73
Engine Crankcase Vent Valve 1 $349.00
Fuel Injector Seal Kit 1 $44.00
Vacuum Pump Gasket 1 $41.62
, Molded HVAC Heater Hose 1 $200.00
APPROVE or DECLINE Subtotal $6,981.90 + est. Tax $453.82 $7,435.72

My spouse and I have an old house and the second floor gets uncomfortably warm in the Summer to where we have to run several window AC units to keep it bearable. We got an energy audit and are getting our attic insulation up-to scratch and everything sealed on their recommendation, but there wasn't much else to do as far as glaring efficiency issues, it's just an old house with poor air flow. We like our living space REALLY cold and will likely be living in this house for 30+ years. So we also decided to spring for the cost of getting a mini-split upstairs. We've had a few different companies come out to give us estimates. So far, the best estimate we got is listed below.
So my questions are:

1. Is this a good deal?
2. What questions should we ask before moving forward? What info do we need to know as consumers and what should we be looking out for?

Below is all the information I have from the estimate. We are newer homeowners and we don't know what we don't know (ya know?) We would appreciate all insight on what we need to ask the company moving forward. Thank you!
Estimate Summary:

• Install Unit - Mini Split
• Daikin 3-port heat pump
• Daikin indoor heads
• 2-9,000 btu heads
• 1-12,000 btu head
• 100 ft of line set
• Condensate line
• Communication wire
• Condenser pad
• Line hide
• 3 handheld controls

Cost: $15,435

We bought a home that was built in 1975 a few years ago. I don't believe there is any sort of insulation in the ceiling above the living room and kitchen. We bought a brand new HVAC 2 years ago that's a heat pump unit. It has a very hard time keeping up a constant temperature in the house. In the summer in might be set to 76 but the house will be 84 degrees and the hvac just runs continuously until it cools off at night. It does the same thing when running the heating in winter. Our house is all electric and our electric bills are running around 700 a month but have been as high as 1100 in the winter. If you look at the second picture through the windows, it seems to me that the roofing is right on top of the tongue and groove ceiling with no insulation. I have been considering adding a layer of 2x4s on the ceiling and putting in insulation boards and then covering with new tongue and groove planks. We want the ceiling to be natural wood and not painted anyway. So I think a new layer of pine tongue and groove with some stain would look nice. And if I put a layer of insulation boards in between I thought it would help with keeping the house at a better temperature and lower our energy bills. Just for reference our house is a little over 1300 square feet. There are two bedrooms and a bathroom upstairs. But the living room and kitchen area is just one level. What are your thoughts and opinions?
PS, don't mind the deflated balloons hanging from the ceiling. Lol. We had a birthday party and I haven't taken them down yet.