Kitt car accessories

Have you ever wondered why vape devices sometimes face power issues in vaping style? Understanding the nuances of vape batteries is crucial for regulatory bodies overseeing the vaping industry. This knowledge helps set comprehensive safety standards and ensures that the risks associated with these devices are minimized, protecting consumer health and safety. Let’s dive into the intricacies of vape batteries, exploring common problems and their implications for regulations in vaping style.

Battery Composition and Design

Vape batteries are primarily lithium-ion-based, offering high energy density and a long life span. However, the characteristics that make them efficient also make them sensitive to operational stresses. Understanding these batteries' chemical and structural build-up is fundamental for crafting guidelines that ensure safety.

Common Power Issues in Vape Batteries

Vape batteries face joint issues, such as overheating, short circuits, and capacity degradation over time. What could be causing these problems? Factors range from internal cell damage to external environmental impacts. Each issue affects the user experience and poses potential safety risks.

Impact of Poor Maintenance

The longevity and efficiency of a vape battery heavily depend on how it is maintained. Regular exposure to high temperatures, improper charging, and physical damage can all shorten a battery's life dramatically. How can regulatory bodies guide consumers to better maintenance practices?

The Role of Charger Compatibility

Using an incompatible charger is like filling a diesel car with petrol—it just won't work correctly and is potentially hazardous. Vape batteries require chargers that match their power needs; deviation can lead to significant battery issues.

Temperature Effects on Battery Performance

Like a cold engine struggling to start in winter, vape batteries perform poorly in extreme temperatures. High heat can lead to battery expansion and potential leaks, while cold can cause reduced reactivity and power output. Regulations could set standards for operating conditions, ensuring safety across diverse environments.

Manufacturing Defects and Quality Control

Sometimes, the issue lies not in the use but in making the battery. Inadequate quality control can allow defects to slip through, leading to widespread power issues. Regulatory agencies must enforce stringent manufacturing standards.

Regulatory Standards and Safety Features

Developing safety standards that adapt to evolving battery technologies is like playing a continuous game of catch-up. Regulators must stay ahead of the curve to protect consumers, effectively requiring ongoing research and policy adaptation.

Advancements in Battery Technology

As battery technology advances, so should the regulations governing their use in vape devices. New materials and designs that promise higher safety and efficiency are on the horizon—how can regulations keep up?

Consumer Usage Patterns

Understanding how consumers use vape devices helps tailor realistic and practical regulations. Are users typically aware of how their usage habits affect battery life and safety?

Future Directions in Battery Safety

What new technologies and materials might emerge to improve vape battery safety? How can regulatory frameworks adapt to incorporate these advancements?

To Wrap It Up

For regulatory agencies, staying informed about the technical aspects of vape batteries is not just about compliance—it’s about ensuring that every user can trust the safety of their device. As we've explored, numerous factors contribute to battery power issues, and understanding these can help shape better regulations and safer vaping experiences.

Playstation 3

• 007 Quantom of Solace - 5
• 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil - 4
• Alpha Protocol - 14
• Assassins Creed Brotherhood - 3
• Assassins Creed II - 3
• Assassins Creed Revelations - 3
• Batman Arkham City - 4
• Blazblue Calamity Trigger Limited Edition - 18
• Blazblue Continuum Shit Extend Limited Edition - 10
• Borderlands: The Pre-Sequel! - 4
• Bound by Flame - 6
• Call of Duty Back Ops - 4
• Call of Duty Ghosts - 4
• Castlevania Lords of Shadow 2 - 18
• Crysis 2 - 3
• Devil May Cry HD Collection - 10
• Dragon Age II - 4
• Dragon's Dogma Dark Arisen - 7
• Eat Lead - 12
• Fallout New Vegas - 5
• Fantastic Four Rise of the Silver Surfer - 9
• Far Cry 3 - 3
• Fracture - 7
• Full Auto 2 Battlelines - 4
• Ghost Recon Future Soldier - 3
• Hitman Absolution - 3
• Injustice God Among Us - 5
• Jurassic The Haunted - 20
• Killzone 3 - 4
• Kingdoms of Amalur Reckoning - 4
• Lucha Libre AAA: Heroes Del Ring - 15
• Madden 25 - 1
• Marvel vs Capcom 3: Fate of Two Worlds - 8
• Medal of Honor Limited Edition - 3
• Medieval Moves Deadmund's Quest - 3
• Middle Earth Shadow of Mordor - 4
• Playstation Move Heroes - 5
• Port Royale 3: Pirates & Merchants - 5
• Resident Evil 5 - 4
• Saints Row The Third - 4
• Sleeping Dogs - 4
• SOCOM 4: US Navy Seals - 3
• Sports Champions - 3
• The Darkness II - 5
• The Elder Scrolls V Skyrim - 3
• The Shoot - 7
• The Testament of Sherlock Holmes - 19
• Vanquish - 13
• Virtua Tennis 3 - 4
• Warhawk - 4
• Warriors: Legends of Troy - 19
• Yakuza 3 - 18

PS2

• Capcom Fighting Evolution - 15
• Choro Q - 15
• Extermination - 12
• Silpheed The Lost Planet - 19

PS1

• Batman & Robin - 32
• Bugs Bunny Lost in Time - 32
• Galaga Destination Earth - 9
• RC de Go - 45
• Star Wars Masters of Teras Kasi - 15
• Gundam Battle Assault 2 - 40
• Spider-Man - 40
• Granstream Saga - 30
• Samurai Shodown III: Blades of Blood - 30
• Spawn The Eternal - 35
• Mega Man X5 - 30
• Battlehunter - 20
• Shadow Madness - 20
• Fighting Force - 25
• Road Rash - 20
• Crash Bandicoot Warped - 15
• Spot Goes to Hollywood - 15
• Toca Championship Racing - 7
• Activision Classics - 7

SEGA Genesis Complete in box

• Combat Cars (cardboard variant-damaged) - 5
• Jeopardy! - 5 - 5
• Forgotten Worlds - 32 - 32
• Space Harrier II - 27 - 27
• T2 The Arcade Game - 18 - 18
• Zany Golf (cardboard variant-damaged) - 12 - 12
• Zombies Ate My Neighbors - 42 - 42

SEGA Genesis Boxed, no manuals

• Dynamite Headdy - 39 - 39
• Radical Rex - 44 - 44
• Road Rash II - 15 - 15
• Robocop 3 (water damage) - 15 - 15
• Space Harrier II - 18 - 18
• Starflight - 35 - 35
• The Revenge of Shinobi (Sega Classic) - 24 - 24
• Two Crude Dudes - 48 - 48
• Virtual Bart - 38 - 38
• WWF Royal Rumble - 8 - 8

Consoles, Accessories, Misc.

• Sega Saturn Console in Original box - 250
• Sega Saturn Arcade Stick complete in Original box - 55
• Donkey Kong Jungle Beat Congos in Original box, but no game) - 70
• Nintendo 64 12-Cart Organizer Drawers (x3) - 40 ea.
• Nintendo 64 Console Original box only - 70
• Nintendo Virtual Boy in Original box - 450

• Please comment below if you'd like photos. Offers welcome.
• Accepting PayPal G/S. Shipping cost separate (CONUS).

Thanks for looking!

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/hMFOluA

Howdy y'all, more stuff for sale! See below for details:

CAR-15 SD 9mm Upper - $450 - Includes (updated):

• Additional pictures
• JSE Surplus A1 slick side upper receiver with Luth A1 rear sight installed and RRA gas deflector, as well as dust cover
• UTG picatinny rail
• Midwest industries HK style front sight
• Broad River Tactical CAR-15 SD handguard and rubber overmold, with magpul rial cover added
• BA 5.5" 9mm barrel
• ar15discounts NBS 9mm bcg - advertised as Glock compatible, but I've used this in a Colt style lower without any issues
• milspec CH
• NOTE: the barrel is purposely shorter than the handguard as I tucked my suppressor in it to shorten the overall length. I will include a KAK extended flash hider and crush washer with this if you don't plan to use a suppressor.

x14 x10 P&S Picatinny Rail Covers - $7/ea or bundles of 5 for $20

• NOS, unused

PSA FDE Sabre AR10 grips - $15 each or take both for $25

• Brand new pulled of the same PA-10 build as the rail covers.
• Include grip screw and washer (hence the blue painters tape so they don't fall out)

Magpul MOE-K2 grips - $18 $15ea

• New, unopened in box. Just didn't like the grip angle personally.
• Help me out buy buying these so I don't have to drive 40 minutes to Cabela's to return them 🙂

PRi Mini Red Dot Base For 1" Tube WITH Holosun HE407C-GR mounted WITH Dreamplastics cover - $250 $240

• Serial No
• Additional Pictures
• Mounted , red dot base shows slight salt from mounting when screwdriver hit the side of it.
• Optic is in mint condition with no salt.
• No box included - what you see is what you get..

FOG dad hat with corporate logo - $30

• Worn a few times, but doesn't fit my big head.

Rules:

• All prices include shipping and are open to negotiation - shoot your shot homie! The worst I can say is No.
• PP FF preferred (if you want to use G&S you cover the 3%) but I also have Venmo.
• Comment first, then PM me.
• Calling dibs is a full price commitment to buy.
• bundles beat dibs, dibs beat PMs.
• I'll wait 30 minutes for payment, then move onto the next in line.
• No notes in any payments (emoji for Venmo). Here's why.
• No chats (they are disabled) PLEASE PM ME.
  • If you don't know how, Click this link to PM me!

A thread for new collectors to ask basic questions of the community.
Frequently Asked Questions below!
A longer version of the subreddit rules is here.
For questions specifically concerning bootlegs or vendor legitimacy, please ask in the Bootleg Megathread.
NSFW & Spoiler Guidelines

• For Self Posts: include a bolded NSFW note next to links in that post.
• For Links to sites/images: If the figure is NSFW, or the website has any NSFW content (including ads) be sure to tag your post NSFW and use the appropriate link flair.

Bootlegs
Any collection posts containing bootlegs, comments advocating buying bootlegs, or links to sites selling bootlegs, recasts, or unlicensed merchandise will be removed.
People often ask about the legitimacy and/or safety of a number of websites which sell large resin statues. The more commonly-asked of those deal primarily in resins from studios which do not have a license from the Japanese IP holders to produce merchandise. Therefore links to those sites are not permitted here. Another sign is if MyFigureCollection doesn't list the either the statue, its manufacturer, or the shop it's being sold on.
MyFigureCollection
My Figure Collection is like MyAnimeList... but for figures! Their database includes thousands of items which been produced during the last couple of decades, along with reviews of shops and other helpful articles. One can also list their own collection and post gallery photos.
Shops

Retailers:
AmiAmi HobbySearch Mandarake (sells rare figures) Good Smile Company Online Shop (often has exclusives) Good Smile Company US shop Crunchyroll Store Hobby Link Japan (aka HLJ) Solaris Japan (MFC partner) BigBadToyStore (MFC partner, US retailer) Big in Japan (also has proxy service) Tokyo Otaku Mode FigureHaven Archonia (EU) Yorokonde (EU) Figuya (EU) Gamersheek (UK) Jungle
List of retailers on MFC
/AnimeFigures' List of Retailers
Community Guide to Shopping in Japan

Blogs/News:

Nekomagic (News/Previews) NyaaFigurines (Reviews/Releases) Kahotan's Blog (News/Reviews) Figma Blog (JP)

Buying & Shipping

1. What’s the best place to buy my anime figures from?
That’s going to depend a lot on what works for you, but most people around here buy them from Amiami, Big in Japan, Hobby Search, HobbyLink Japan, or Tokyo Otaku Mode. If none of those work for you for whatever reason, there’s a list of reputable retailers in the sidebar that you can check out at any time. Be extra careful when ordering figures from websites like Amazon or ebay, as there are a lot of bootlegs on those sites. Don’t be afraid to ask in our Bootleg Megathread if you’re unsure.
2. What differences are there between the shipping options I get from most Japanese shops?
Below is a rundown of the main shipping choices you’ll get at most retailers. Keep in mind that if an order is large enough you will be forced to use one of the more expensive options, as SAL shipments have lower size and weight restrictions.

• Unregistered SAL: Sometimes referred to as uSAL, is usually the cheapest method. It does not come with any tracking or insurance. Usually takes up 2-4 weeks for delivery.
• Registered SAL: Sometimes referred to as rSAL, is insured for the declared value up to 6,000 yen. It comes with a tracking number and usually takes 2-4 weeks for delivery.
• EMS: This method of shipping is much faster than either SAL options, usually arriving within a week of shipment. EMS shipments are insured for the declared value up to 2,000,000 yen.
• Airmail
• E-packet
• Surface: Shops don't offer this very often. It's an actual cargo ship and slow as a result.
  
• DHL: Becoming more available as an alternative to EMS on AmiAmi and other sites. Can be less expensive than EMS and of comparable speed, but may be more reliant on the specific geographical area being shipped to. The price is also determined by the size of the box. Offers their own tracking.
  

3. I placed two+ orders for figures at different times. Will my items be shipped together, or will I have to pay shipping twice?
Most shops will ask you to pay shipping on a per-order basis, but here are some that will allow combined shipping:

• Amiami: You can combine orders here, as long as the orders ship in the same month. It doesn’t matter if the item is new or preowned. Any preorders that are set for that month can also be combined with other orders for that month. However, be aware that if the preorder gets delayed, Amiami will remove that item from that month’s shipment and place it on a new order. To combine orders on Amiami, use the “Combine Orders” feature under “My Account”.
  
• Hobby Search: Hobby Search will let you combine orders that release in the same month, but you cannot combine in stock items with preorders. If you want to combine multiple preorders, or multiple in stock items, you can do so using the “Order Recombination” feature on your account page.
  
• HobbyLink Japan: At HLJ, you have the option to send paid orders to their “Private Warehouse”, where you can store them for up to 2 months. When you’re ready to ship the items, you simply select which items to ship and HLJ will combine them into one shipment for you. To use this, just select the “Private Warehouse” option as shipping when you order.
  

If you’re unsure about whether or not a shop we haven’t listed will combine your orders, please refer to their individual FAQs.
4. When will I get charged for my preorder?
Most Japanese shops charge you once the item is in stock and ready for shipment. When that happens, they will send you an email asking for payment. Some shops (mostly overseas ones), will allow you to pay for the item up front though, if you’d like. A few with that option are:

• Big in Japan (Japanese store)
• Tokyo Otaku Mode
• Anime Island
• Crunchyroll

Keep in mind that overseas stores will likely get the figure a few months after Japanese ones, so pay attention to the release date stated on the website you are buying from so as to avoid that confusion.
5. Should I expect to pay customs fees when importing figures?
That depends on where you live. Here’s a quick rundown:

• Australia: 10% GST is now assessed up front.
• Canada: Minimum declared value for charges is around CAD$20 for regular shipments, and CAD$60 for gifts (gifting something only seems to lower the declared value by about CAD$40, not deplete it completely). When using Amiami, try their Small Air Packet option. It comes with tracking, gets there in about the same time as EMS, and is better at avoiding customs.
• European Union: As of 1st July 2021, VAT has to be paid on all goods imported from outside of the EU. Retailers are supposed charge VAT for purchases under €150, however many Japanese retailers currently do not, so VAT will be charged when your order arrives in the EU. Orders that are >€150, VAT and duty will be charged by your local customs.
• UK: As of 1st January 2021, VAT is to be charged by retailers for orders <£135. However, customs isn't currently charging VAT on parcels valued at <£135, even if the VAT hasn't been paid. Goods >£135 will have their VAT and duty calculated and charged by customs.
• Mexico: Minimum declared value for customs fees is USD$300 for shipments by post, and USD$50 for shipments by courier.
• United States: A shipment has to have a declared value of USD$2,000 before customs starts hitting you with fees, so you most likely won’t have to worry about them at all.

6. The figure I want is an exclusive, how do I go about ordering one outside of Japan?
You have three options for this:
A. Big in Japan is known to stock exclusive figures and ship to other countries. Usually the price is higher because they build in their proxy fees, but it’s easier than worrying about using a forwarder or proxy service. If you live in the US, Crunchyroll, Right Stuf, and Tokyo Otaku Mode also get exclusives sometimes, but out of the states the shipping can get expensive.
B. Forwarding Services: A forwarder is someone who you ship an exclusive item to so that they can forward the package on to you, usually for a flat fee + shipping. When using a forwarder you still make the purchase yourself, and enter their address into the shipping field. When the box arrives at the forwarder they will then stick your address onto the package and send it on its way.
Some popular forwarders are:

• Big in Japan
• Tenso

Be sure to read each sites instructions on forwarding carefully!
C. Proxy Services: With a proxy, you tell them what the item you’re looking for is and they will purchase it in your stead. This is handy for when a company doesn’t accept foreign credit cards, or you’re having trouble navigating a Japanese website.
Some popular proxies are:

• Big in Japan (Won’t proxy for Yahoo Auctions)
• From Japan

Again, be sure you thoroughly read through each sites proxy instructions.
7. I see a bunch of really cheap figures that ship from China on ebay. Are those okay to buy?
Generally, no. They’re most likely bootlegs. If you want a second opinion on that, feel free to ask in the Bootleg Megathread that’s always stickied at the top of the sub.
8. What’s a bootleg, and how can I avoid buying them?
A bootleg is a counterfeit figure often made using rejected molds of the official product. They are usually priced significantly lower than the genuine article, and in order to make their profit, bootleggers use lower quality materials and have less attention to detail- resulting in a substandard figure.
The Bootleg Megathread that I mentioned in question 7 is a great tool to avoid buying any bootlegs. It has a few tips and tricks to avoiding them to begin with, and a few more on how to spot them if you’re worried you might already own one.
9. Does anyone know when figure X is going to be released? How do I know if it was delayed?
My Figure Collection (sometimes referred to as MFC) does an excellent job of staying on top of information like release dates and delays. If you’re curious about an upcoming figures release date, check there first. This information can be found directly under the “Releases” section on a figure’s entry. If you only see a month and a year in that section, it means the release date has not yet been announced by the manufacturer, and there is still a chance the figure could be delayed.
If you make an account on MFC you can also subscribe to comments, changes, and pictures via a checkbox on the right hand side of a figure’s listing. Subscribing to any of these things will allow MFC to send you an email anytime the subscription in question updates. Subscribing to “changes” is a great way to keep up with release dates and delays, among other things.
10. The figure I want is long sold out at normal retailers! What’s the best place to pick it up in the aftermarket?
A list of reputable retailers can be found under the “Shops” section of the /AnimeFigures sidebar. They all sell legitimate products, and many of them also sell figures second hand. However, the most frequently suggested second hand sites are Mandarake and Amiami- who has a preowned section that they update every night save Sundays and Japanese holidays around 1PM JST and again around 6PM JST.
AmiAmi grades their pre-owned items on a letter scale. The general consensus from buyers is that their ratings are conservative, so unless the item and/or packaging is specifically indicated as having significant flaws, pre-owned items from them are usually in at least as good a condition as their rating suggests.
Note: When you search Mandarake, you’ll get the best results by using the Japanese characters for whatever you are searching. If you don’t know them, you can find them on MFC by clicking on any of the “details” in that figure’s listing.
11. Amiami has a figure I’m interested in labeled as “For sale in Japan only”. Does this mean I can’t order it without a proxy or forwarder?
No, you can still order it. Amiami’s English site has that warning on many items, and it’s mostly meant to inform you that this product was made for a Japanese market, and as such, will have Japanese speaking/writing in it- so don’t expect any instructions to be in English. If Amiami doesn’t want foreigners buying a certain product, they won’t even list it on their English site.

Displaying Your Figures

12. What display cases do you recommend?
If you live near an Ikea try out one of these:

• Klingsbo
• Billy (Often used with Morliden doors (now the HÖGBO and glass shelves.)
• Detolf: Formerly the go-to choice for inexpensive display cabinetry, the Detolf was first made flimsier around 2020 and then essentially phased out of the name, to become the BLÅLIDEN. Knockoff versions of widely-varying quality are commonly found on other shopping sites these days, though.

*If you decided on a Detolf, you might find that there is a lot of wasted space. Here are a few tutorials on raising the shelves or and adding extra ones in.

• Using metal clips
• Using acrylic supports and PVC pipe

If you don’t live near an Ikea, Amazon has a few display options, though they are more expensive. Also keep an eye on your local Craigslist (or your country’s equivalent) and stores near you that are closing up.
13. What lighting do you guys recommend?
Ikea’s Dioder LED strips were discontinued after a long run. A current version is the Vattensten, if you're inclined to buy your case and lights at the same time.
LED strips have become very commonly available in recent years; most hardware and home furnishing stores carry a selection now. Just make sure that the lights don’t get too hot!
14. What are those clear plastic boxes that I see under everyone’s figures in their collection posts, and where can I get them?
Those are called risers. Most of us use standard acrylic risers like these. Some other, easy to find things that have been suggested are:

• Plastic picture cubes
• Card Deck Boxes
• If you’re feeling adventurous, try making your own!

Check your local hobby store for the first 2 options, or your local hardware store if you want to make your own.
Another common suggestion is to visit The Container Store if you have one near you. They have a lot of things to choose from that can suit a variety of needs. Be sure to check out their standard acrylic risers, their Amac boxes, and the various display cases they sell (baseball cases, mini car cases. hockey puck cases, etc).
15. Should I keep my figures sealed?
That is, of course, up to you really, but here are a few things to keep in mind when debating this question:

• Keeping it sealed can actually damage your figure. PVC figures usually have something called plasticizer in them, and that plasticizer needs to be able to breath. If a PVC figure isn’t exposed to oxygen, after a period of time the plasticizer starts to break down and form a sticky substance on the surface of the figure. Simply opening your figures and taking them out of the box prevents this from happening. If you happen to find plasticizer goo on one of your figures, Kahotan has a handy guide for dealing with it.
• Unlike some other figure markets, keeping an anime figure sealed won’t raise its value by a whole lot. In fact, because of the plasticizer problem mentioned above, your figure could actually be in better condition if you open it versus keeping it sealed.

Finding the Right Figure(s) for You

16. What are "scales" and "prizes"? What is the difference between them?
Those are classifications for figures based on a few factors.

• "Prizes" are generally more simply produced figures which are intended to be given as prizes for playing arcade games. They are inexpensive and lack the detail of scale figures, though some prize figure lines have standouts which may approach lower-end scales in quality. That is uncommon and often depends on the individual figure.
• "Scales" are called such because they are nominally designed to be proportional to the dimensions of the character which they are based on. They are generally of much better manufacture and materials than prize figures, allowing for more detail in painting, accessories, or complex poses.
• "Trading" figures appear in gashapon machines or as blind boxes on shop counters, often as sets which include multiple characters. As suggested by the class name, the randomness encourages trading. They are usually very inexpensively-produced, though as with prizes, some series are better than others.
• "Non-scale" encompasses a variety of other categories. It is often used to describe poseable figure lines such as figma and Nendoroids.

In recent years producers such as Good Smile Company attempted to further bridge the gap between prize quality and scales by introducing figure lines which are intended to be moderately-priced while retaining a higher level of detail than the typical prize figure, to varying levels of success.
17. There are so many figure companies! Who makes good figures?!
Obviously this is a very subjective question, but as a general starting point, here are a few well renowned figure companies:

• Alter
• Max Factory
• Good Smile Company
• Kotobukiya (usually hit or miss for people. Use your best judgement based off of the prototype)
• Flare
• Stronger

18. I really love “series X / character X”- how can I check if any figures were ever made for it?
My Figure Collection can be your best friend here. Simply do a search on the name of the series or character using the search bar located at the top right of the screen, and all associated figures pop up!
Alternatively, if you’re looking at a figure’s MFC entry, most of the text under the “Details” section can be clicked on and used to run a search.
19. How can I commission a custom figure?
None of the major figure companies (Alter, Kotobukiya, Good Smile Company, etc.) will take a commission for a single figure. This thread has a few websites in it that you can check out, or you can look into garage kits. Some kit painters would be willing to resculpt, frankenstein together, or otherwise modify kits for the right price.
If you're looking for help completing a garage kit, /brushforhire may be useful.

Keeping Up with New Announcements

20. How can I keep up with figure news (announcements, updates, etc.)?
Most people use a MFC combined with any or all of the following news sites:

• Neko Magic
• Alter’s Blog (In Japanese)
• Kahotan’s Blog (Only GSC and their sister companies)

Many figure companies are active on Twitter, so following them there is recommended for quicker news.
To use MFC for this I’ll quote question #9.

If you make an account on MFC you can also subscribe to comments, changes, and pictures via a checkbox on the right hand side of a figure’s listing. Subscribing to any of these things will allow MFC to send you an email anytime the subscription in question updates. Subscribing to “changes” is a great way to keep up with release dates and delays, among other things.

Most companies have one or more Twitter accounts. Some examples: Good Smile Company sales, Good Smile's USA branch, Max Factory, AmiAmi Hobby News.
21. Everyone’s excited about something called Wonfes….. what the heck is that?!
WonFes (short for Wonder Festival) is a biannual figure expo where many figure producers (both large and small) show off new sculpts and updates to figures already under way. Most companies save their most exciting announcements for WonFes, so we all look forward to the expo whenever it rolls around! Winter Wonder Festival is usually held in February, while Summer Wonder Festival is usually in July. The event has also spread to Shanghai, in the late spring.
22. One or two (or 15) figures were announced at WonFes that I’m really excited about! How can I keep track of their progress once the event is over?
MFC is always really quick about getting new WonFes announcements (or any others throughout the year, for that matter) listed in their database, so we suggest using that. To find a figure from the event you can search any number of things, including the name of the character or the name of the show. You can also use the tag search to search “WonderFestival 20xx_[season]” to see all items announced at that event.

What are some of the most ridiculous and unrealistic tropes that really grind your gears? After having watched a pretty awful Vin Diesel movie, there's been a new entry in my Top Three. Pipping 'constantly upshifting gears' and 'gently sawing the wheel from left to right in a way that would result in weaving all over the road, whilst ostensibly driving in a straight line', we now have:
LEANING/SITTING ON IMMACULATELY POLISHED CARS
The kind of thing that would get you kicked out of a legal car show and battered at an underground meet IRL. Not only does the character who is the owner of the car permit others to do it (whilst wearing all manner of very scratchy clothing, weapons and accessories), they do it themselves. Like, I can believe the bit where he falls out of the plane with no parachute and landed alive on his feet after physically incapacitating five bad guys and nicking one of theirs, but leaning on their own mirror-polished classic car? Naaaaaah that's just ludicrous.

Hi,
I'm working on a car and need to blow out debris from spark plug wells before I remove the plugs to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber, but don't want to throw away money on a pack of compressed air cans that don't work optimally when turned downwards. My main goal is to use an air chuck/blow gun attachment to blow stuff out of the wells a few seconds at a time (how long can it really take?)
As I do this stuff at home and not professionally, I've always used only hand tools and breaker bars have always done me right, but if I'm getting a compressor, I might as well see if it can use air tools like impact wrenches and such for the occasional suspension bolts and whatnot. Looking at some air impact wrenches, they say they need 5-6 CFM at 90 PSI, but the compressor I'm looking at only does 0.65 CFM at 90 PSI; I'm assuming that's due to the smaller 3 gallon tank. Anything remotely close to 5-6 CFM runs about $2-300+ at Harbor Freight, so I don't want to spend more than $100.
If I get the one that I'm looking at, it should definitely be enough for air blowing here and there, right? If I was to hook up an air tool that requires more CFM, what would happen? Would the tank deplete and need to refill sooner? How long would a continuous press of the trigger on an air wrench last?
Thanks!
Edit: Also, what couplefitting do I need to attach a hose to the air outlet of the compressor? From the pics it looks like some kind of quick-disconnect fitting, the manual says it's an "Industrial (M-style) plug" but which one would that be out of these? Here is the hose and the blow gun I'd want to use with it.

Hi, I just bought a 2022 elenatra limited. One of the features I was really looking forward to is the ambient lighting. I’ve done some digging and haven’t found much in the way of a solution, so figured I’d try here.
I’ve switched to driver 1 profile and turned the brightness all the way up. I set the lights to red to make them easier to see. When I first get in to the car they’re off. When I turn the car in accessory mode or on they remain off. However, after I shut the car off the ambient lighting turns on. If I restart the car the ambient lighting turns back off.
It’s still under warranty, but if there’s a simple fix or operator error issue I can handle myself quickly I’d like to go that route first. Thanks.

I want to get a new trailer-hitch bike rack, ideally for the family and ideally something that will last a while. The competing options are giving me decision paralysis; please help!
Facts to consider:

• We have a 2" receiver on the car.
• We have 2x adult bikes, regular hybrid bikes. Someday I might get a mountain bike, or a gravel bike or something.
• The kids bikes are a 16" bike, and a 12" bike. Right now the 12"er will go in the trunk, but ideally I'd like something that can support a 16" bike and the kids will obviously grow.
• Ideally something that can hold 2 adult bikes and 2 kids (and eventually older) bikes.

These are the racks I've been considering:

• Kuat Sherpa 2.0 - Lightweight, good value, but only supports 2 bikes. Kids bikes will forever have to take up trump space.
• 1UP Equip'd - Very expensive, especially for 4 bikes. But the extensions can be purchased piecemeal to spread the cost out over time. My concern it looks like the way it holds the wheels of the bike is not very stable. Also, folded up with 4 trays, it's super tall and cumbersome to store.
• Thule Apex XT - I've never been a fan of hanging racks because they always require some mickey-mouseing to get women's drop-bar bikes and kids bikes to attack, but in terms of value this seems like a good option.

Any thoughts/advice?
EDIT:
Other racks I considered but removed from consideration:

• Kuat Base 2.0 - Larger than the 1UP, just as expensive, and doesn't support smaller kid bikes.
• 1UP Heavy Duty - Almost as expensive as the Equip'd, but without the pull-handle for adjusting tilt and included lock accessories.
• Kuat Transfer 2.0 - The largest 4-bike rack, I think it would be taller than the roof of the car when folded up.

I'm commuting and dropping my two year old off along the way. Currently I have a Cube Cargo Hybrid which is nice but it's also overkill for what I need. I don't need the size with only one kid, I still have a car in case I need to transport something bigger, and I'm getting annoyed at being stuck in traffic or struggling to find a spot to park it etc.
I want to change to something which rides much more like a normal bike, especially on the part of my commute after I drop my child off.
A quick look suggests the Tern HSD is the best option in my price range (3000€ ish). I'm looking at Bosch or Shimano motor, hydraulic disc brakes, I can live with a derailleur, decent accessories.
Anything else I should consider before buying one?

Recently purchased and needing some help finding a few things!
I have no " theme" colors I like are red/maroon/black
Please share some recommended:

1. Seat Covers
2. Wheels ( not tires ) ** want all black **
3. Any Accessories you have purchased that is amazing to you!
4. JUST FOR FUN: what is your fav car sent / freshener

Note: First time Honda Owner! Its exciting to be apart of this dope club!

I gotta say as a proud owner of the Mirage (which my daughter named "baby beast"), I was offended by all the shit talking in that other thread.
The Mirage isn't powerful. It isnt pretty. It won't get you the ladies. There's no argument on these points.
But if there were ever a zombie apocalypse or SHTF situation you will want to ditch your Ford raptors, jeeps and hummers. Because the Mirage is the best car you can have.
Fuel efficiency. There is no other car out there that gets the kind of fuel efficiency the mirage gets without being bogged down by the electrical problems or complications that come from hybrids or electric cars. And in a SHTF situation, gas will not be easy to come by. The Mirage can simply get you farther away from danger on less fuel than most cars.
Easy repairs. The Mirage is one of the only cars that you can still fix just about everything on with just a set of hand tools. It has a cable clutch. It has a freaking distributor. I'm pretty sure the most powerful computer it has is its clock. If something goes down on it... all you need is a few simple hand tools and some duct take and it will get you at least a few hundred miles away from zombies. Which you likely won't need to do because:
Reliability. The Mirage is insanely reliable. All of the parts on it were meant to be on cars that have between 120 and 200 horsepower. This little beast rocks just 74 horsepower. You routinely see Mirage with 250,000 miles on them without needing major repairs. There are a few out there with half a million miles on them. And if something goes wrong? All good because of point two.
Room for storage. The Mirage is deceptively roomy. I've taken my daughter on week long camping trips in it and we've never had an issue. We've just had to be creative. You can fit all of the zombie weapons you could need in it just fine... and still fit two or three people in it.
No one wants it.. So you think a badass Jeep with all the bells and whistles is the best vehicle for zombies or SHTF? Well guess what? So does everyone else. That makes you a target. And the second you close your eyes, someone may jack your shit. But nobody wants a Mirage in a situation like this. Only those of us who are enlightened.
Now I know what you are thinking.... but it can't go off road! And you are right. But neither can any other vehicle in a zombie apocalypse. Because it doesn't matter how high your truck is lifted or how many accessories you have on your Jeep. Anyone who has off roaded knows it causes problems for your vehicle.
That's it. I just want to throw it out there that the next time you see a guy driving a mirage... maybe do t laugh at him. Because when SHTF... you just may need him.

US-based UGC creators aged 20-35 with a car. Product for filming: key fob case & accessories set ($60 value). PM me your portfolio link and car brand/model. Thanks! (welcome to every race or sex, and the brand has a girly style)

Hi I will be taking delivery of my new car this Sunday and would want to get new seat covers as the same is not available with the dealer right now. I would also like to get a good dashcam fitted so need recommendations for a genuine car accessories shop which is reasonable and good too.

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