Shiplap pine
Woodworking: all things made from trees.
2008.08.27 23:03 Woodworking: all things made from trees.
Woodworking is your worldwide home for discussion of all things woodworking, carpentry, fine furniture, power tools, hand tools, and just about anything else about making - anything - from trees!
2024.05.08 17:43 KILL_ME_NOW_2 Shiplap as baseboard?
 | I found some Lowe’s shiplap made of pine 8ft by 5 1/4 inch by 9/16th inch. Is it fine to use it as baseboard? submitted by KILL_ME_NOW_2 to DIY [link] [comments] |
2024.05.01 01:20 nvmympg Log cabin wood (logs, floors, ceiling, shiplap)
 | I'm in Georgia and have a very old log cabin that my mom grew up in. I sold the property and have a year to salvage the house if I can find a buyer. Any suggestions? The house looks like a weathered white clapboard house, but underneath is the original 20x40' log structure. I'm not sure what the logs are, though the walls look like pine. Not only is the house log, but the walls are old growth shiplap (or at least planks), as well as flooring and ceiling. I've roughly calculated it's about 1,000 log feet plus 1,440 SF of pine shiplap, 800 SF of floors, and 800 SF of wood ceiling, plus various ceiling joists, etc. The supports under the house are these amazing, spiraling tree trunks - not sure what kind of wood grows like that. submitted by nvmympg to woodworking [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/ml9wlvydapxc1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=78e333856a330685837670dad85b5f9adc9b4a82 https://preview.redd.it/g3boj9ghapxc1.png?width=600&format=png&auto=webp&s=eb96a11c9c38cd70930a02b365a439519ffb04ba |
2024.04.21 20:56 Thor23278 Shiplap ceiling: MDF vs Pine
I’m going to be installing horizontal shiplap on my vaulted A-frame ceiling. The decorative beams are spaced that there will be no but joints between boards. my wife wants them painted white and not the natural wood. Usually I would stick with wood but I can get MDF prefinished, which would save me a lot of time. I know MDF can have some issues with sagging but The runs will be just under 8 feet in length before they butt up to a beam. Is there any reason MDF would B is there any reason MDF would B a poor choice be a poor choice?
submitted by Thor23278 to DIY [link] [comments]
2024.04.19 01:40 Darweezy Anchoring a Hanging Chair
The other day I was lucky to find a great rattan hanging chair at goodwill that I could not pass up. Our house has a sunroom that doubled as a second office during COVID that doesn’t see the need for a desk anymore so I would like to replace that corner with the hanging chair.
Our sunroom was an addition to the house prior to us moving in so I do not know the specs but when we moved in it was an unwashed pine that we painted white. Could be a simple tongue and groove shiplap style wood - but is maybe 1/8-1/4 inch thick.
I’ve hung a 75 lbs punching bag in the basement but that was directly to a beam, I wouldn’t imagine it is that easy here…
How might I make this structurally sound? I would imagine there is at least one or two crossbeams between the center I could tap into but I don’t trust my cheap stud finder to locate it through the wood. My initial thought was 3x the similar setup in the basement but figured I should ask here first… or if anyone is familiar with a similar addition on what the support beam setup might look like so I could set some larger bolts and only install one anchor.
Here are reference pics
submitted by Darweezy to AskContractors [link] [comments]
Our sunroom was an addition to the house prior to us moving in so I do not know the specs but when we moved in it was an unwashed pine that we painted white. Could be a simple tongue and groove shiplap style wood - but is maybe 1/8-1/4 inch thick.
I’ve hung a 75 lbs punching bag in the basement but that was directly to a beam, I wouldn’t imagine it is that easy here…
How might I make this structurally sound? I would imagine there is at least one or two crossbeams between the center I could tap into but I don’t trust my cheap stud finder to locate it through the wood. My initial thought was 3x the similar setup in the basement but figured I should ask here first… or if anyone is familiar with a similar addition on what the support beam setup might look like so I could set some larger bolts and only install one anchor.
Here are reference pics
2024.04.18 02:47 Darweezy Anchoring a Hanging Chair
Today I was lucky to find a great rattan hanging chair at goodwill that I could not pass up. Our house has a sunroom that doubled as a second office during COVID that doesn’t see the need for a desk anymore so I would like to replace that corner with the hanging chair.
Our sunroom was an addition to the house prior to us moving in so I do not know the specs but when we moved in it was an unwashed pine that we painted white. Could be a simple tongue and groove shiplap style wood - but is maybe 1/8-1/4 inch thick.
I’ve hung a 75 lbs punching bag in the basement but that was directly to a beam, I wouldn’t imagine it is that easy here…
How might I make this structurally sound? I would imagine there is at least one or two crossbeams between the center I could tap into but I don’t trust my cheap stud finder to locate it through the wood. My initial thought was 3x the similar setup in the basement but figured I should ask here first… or if anyone is familiar with a similar addition on what the support beam setup might look like so I could set some larger bolts and only install one anchor.
submitted by Darweezy to DIYHome [link] [comments]
Our sunroom was an addition to the house prior to us moving in so I do not know the specs but when we moved in it was an unwashed pine that we painted white. Could be a simple tongue and groove shiplap style wood - but is maybe 1/8-1/4 inch thick.
I’ve hung a 75 lbs punching bag in the basement but that was directly to a beam, I wouldn’t imagine it is that easy here…
How might I make this structurally sound? I would imagine there is at least one or two crossbeams between the center I could tap into but I don’t trust my cheap stud finder to locate it through the wood. My initial thought was 3x the similar setup in the basement but figured I should ask here first… or if anyone is familiar with a similar addition on what the support beam setup might look like so I could set some larger bolts and only install one anchor.
2024.04.07 01:33 thewags05 Newer side entrance/laundry room
 | Just about done with our mudroom/laundry room on the side entrance. The previous owner added on a whole section, to our 1830 house in western Mass, and left everything pretty bare. We're trying to make it fit the house overall. submitted by thewags05 to centuryhomes [link] [comments] I wasn't convinced in the shiplap style wainscoting, but with more traditional trim it's ok. All the cabinet hardware is unlacquered brass, so it won't stay shiny for long. Also tried to update to more traditional trim, they had slapped up a mixture of painted and poorly stained pines. The green are the before pics, we forgot to get more of those. |
2024.04.06 16:22 couchmechanic Pole Barn Insulation and Vapor Control Detail
 | Critique my insulation and vapor control plan for this 15 year old pole barn! submitted by couchmechanic to buildingscience [link] [comments] Climate zone 5A, near the lakeshore in west Michigan. Cold, wet winters. Humid summers. Half of the barn, the main workshop, will be insulated (see existing and insulation plan in attached images). Workshop will be heated via natural gas during the winter, haven’t decided the specific heater. No AC. The plan is to insulate with R23 Rockwool Comfortbatt, which will fill the 5.5” post cavity. It leaves a 1.5” air gaps horizontally in between the exterior girts. Apply Siga Majrex from the slab to the posts and over existing interior headers. Apply the same to the bottom cord of truss ceiling. Sealing to the slab and to itself with the appropriate tapes to establish a continuous envelope. Install interior 2x4 girts 2’OC from slab to header. Install 3/4” pine shiplap over girts to finish. Install plywood or similar to bottom cord of trusses over top of vapor control layer. Considering putting 2x4 furring between vapor control layer and plywood for electrical runs. Blown in cellulose or fiberglass in the truss bay with styrofoam baffles to maintain roof deck air gap at the truss heels. I would think this is considered a “vapor open” system. There is no true air control layer, only a vapor retarding layer. My thought is - this barn will always leak air. The overhead doors and interior insulated barn door will not ever be truly sealed to the exterior. I like rockwool for its fire resistance, it’s very easy to work with, it can be easily changed (future renovations), hydrophobic, vapor open.. I don’t like the idea of closed cell spray foam, it’s horrible to work with if you need to change anything in the wall. I hear horror stories of it not curing properly, trapping moisture, etc. and it is expensive. Do you foresee any problems with this plan? What would you do differently? Any and all advice is appreciated! |
2024.03.29 19:01 AwkwardFox1752 Cutting shiplap
What technique would you choose for cutting shiplap boards in some 1” white pine that I wanted to use for interior finish.
submitted by AwkwardFox1752 to woodworking [link] [comments]
2024.03.18 02:07 warkworthian Cozy Bedroom in shiplap, barnboard and V-groove pine
 | Our little cottage on Lake Ontario. Used my grade nine shop class fundamentals to tear out the old paneling, install new walls and ceiling all with wood. I learned a lot throughout the process! submitted by warkworthian to BeginnerWoodWorking [link] [comments] |
2024.03.17 19:37 DaxKokken Journey through my built-in project
2024.03.13 03:39 Busy_Tiger8385 Best product to fill holes before painting?
 | I am going to paint this pine shiplap and want to know the best product to fill the nail holes, to make them disappear once painted. Wood filler? Spackle? Thanks for your guidance! submitted by Busy_Tiger8385 to paint [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/y7let2knk0oc1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b846fe23f522ed4dee299f3dfe8ae2d00ed9d481 |
2024.03.07 18:55 wkendwench Calling all carpenters
 | I’m working on a remodel project. Previous home owners installed this towel bar half-assed and crooked as hell. I kinda dig the tealish pine shiplap and don’t want to take it down. How do I replace this towel bar without leaving holes behind? Or how would you repair the holes and get them to match the wood? submitted by wkendwench to DIY [link] [comments] |
2024.02.23 23:25 Skatcatla Let's talk shiplap
I can't believe it but it's finally time to insulate and close the walls. Planning on going with basic shiplap or nickel shiplap. Any thoughts on cedar vs hemlock vs oak vs pine? I know pine is cheap but I kind of don't want that super knotty "weekend at grandma's" look.
ETA: Should have specified this would be for interior - I'm thinking of using shiplap instead of drywall.
submitted by Skatcatla to OffGridCabins [link] [comments]
ETA: Should have specified this would be for interior - I'm thinking of using shiplap instead of drywall.
2024.02.21 19:20 AVThompson Advice on Paint and Seal
 | Hey all, would appreciate your advice here. submitted by AVThompson to woodworking [link] [comments] I built the bench (pic) out of 3/4" birch ply and 3/4" pine (top and facing) and put up the shiplap (3/4" pine). The intent is to paint the wall and bench and stain the benchtop. These will be relatively lightly used - The wall will likely be exposed to hanging wet coats and the bench storage to wet boots/shoes on occasion. What type of paint/stain/seal would you recommend to help the wood and finish last as long as possible? Should I add a tray or other lining to the bottom of the bench cubbies? All suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/zh9garhqdzjc1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b5aa5b5de5960a0210759cc40c7154877d6f7a2 |
2024.02.17 18:51 Earhythmic Relish the relic. Made some custom closet barn doors, then set them on fire!
 | We got the keys to our 80 y/o farmhouse back in July and immediately started remodeling, haven’t had closet doors for ~8 months - the track hardware has been sitting around this whole time though. submitted by Earhythmic to BeginnerWoodWorking [link] [comments] Made what is essentially giant shaker doors. Used 4x8 shiplap plywood for the panel, pine (ugh) 2x6 for the rails and styles. Dadoed 1” deep groove all around for the panel to sit in. Then set it on fire! Shou sugi ban’ed it with a weed torch, rubbed on watered down cabinet paint for a gray-wash, then scrubbed the burned bits with a metal bristle brush. Finished with a satin poly. |
2024.02.14 05:19 nucsubfixr956 Cut nails or screws/plugs?
Doing wide pine in my new construction house. 3/4” pine shiplapped 10-12”. Was thinking of doing 15# felt paper then face nailing 2” cut nails to hold them down. The subfloor is 3/4” advantech t+g.
My father suggested to countersink and screw then plug the holes. While i dont think thats a bad idea i like the look of the cut nails but i dont want to sacrifice a tight floor for a look.
What do you guys think is best for longevity and the least warping? I read on some forum that a guy used cut nails and he hadnt had any nail or board pop up in 15+ years.
Thanks for any advice
submitted by nucsubfixr956 to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
My father suggested to countersink and screw then plug the holes. While i dont think thats a bad idea i like the look of the cut nails but i dont want to sacrifice a tight floor for a look.
What do you guys think is best for longevity and the least warping? I read on some forum that a guy used cut nails and he hadnt had any nail or board pop up in 15+ years.
Thanks for any advice
2024.02.14 03:15 nucsubfixr956 Cut nails or screws/plugs?
Hey yall. Im doing 8-12” wide pine flooring 3/4” thick and shiplapped in a bunch of rooms in my new construction house. The subfloor is 3/4” t+g advantech on 2x10 kd joists. Ill also be doing some red oak aswell. I milled them all myself and i really like the look of face nailing cut nails to hold the boards down. My father suggested i used 2 inch screws, countersink and plug. He seems to think that the screws will hold longer over time but they dont have as much shear strength as say a 6d common cut nail (from what ive researched).
Ive found tons of woodworking videos online and a lot say that cut nails are awesome cause of how they dig into the wood. I even read on a WW forum that some guy hadnt had a nailhead even pop up in over 15 years. I havent seen much in the way of the screwing and plugging method ae far as its longevity. I really just dont want them to warp.
I guess my question is: besides the cost of cut nails being more, is there any obvious reason to go with the screws/plugs?
I was planning on installing the flooring in with 15# felt paper as an underlayment as well regardless of what fastening method i went with. Thanks for any advice!
submitted by nucsubfixr956 to HardWoodFloors [link] [comments]
Ive found tons of woodworking videos online and a lot say that cut nails are awesome cause of how they dig into the wood. I even read on a WW forum that some guy hadnt had a nailhead even pop up in over 15 years. I havent seen much in the way of the screwing and plugging method ae far as its longevity. I really just dont want them to warp.
I guess my question is: besides the cost of cut nails being more, is there any obvious reason to go with the screws/plugs?
I was planning on installing the flooring in with 15# felt paper as an underlayment as well regardless of what fastening method i went with. Thanks for any advice!
2024.02.05 17:52 gallagdy Preparing bathroom subfloor for repurposed wide pine flooring
i am going to reuse old wide pine shiplap flooring in my bathroom. I was wondering how you would prepare the subfloor. Would shluter ditra be necessary? Subfloor is currently plywood. Any advice would be appreciated.
submitted by gallagdy to DIY [link] [comments]
2024.01.25 13:18 Beaudt7 Coffee mug holder
 | Left over maple shiplap and pine tung and groove. Clear polyurethane on the maple and espresso brown lacqueclear coat on the pine submitted by Beaudt7 to BeginnerWoodWorking [link] [comments] |
2024.01.25 03:27 Ragelordkiben Shiplap problems
Hey me and my girlfriend have been trying to install a shiplap fireplace and the gaps seem to be super uneven. It's pine from home Depot. Like 2 mm difference across an 72" piece. Is this normal or did we just get terrible pieces?
submitted by Ragelordkiben to DIY [link] [comments]
2024.01.21 01:03 zeakerone What species is my shiplap
 | We recently sanded this super dark shiplap and painted it, I thought the stain had just impregnated the wood deep, but now I’m trimming some and I think this is actually some non pine dark species. It is a soft wood almost like cedar, but is red all the way through and has no cedar aromatics. Did I mess up painting this stuff? submitted by zeakerone to wood [link] [comments] |
2024.01.19 03:35 AdequateOtter Is it possible to manufacture my own shiplap siding from framing lumber?
I have a plan to make shiplap siding for my house but I wanted to know if my idea is really unfeasibly bad before I start to experiment. I’m kind of poor right now but I refuse to replace the old ugly vinyl siding on my house with new ugly vinyl siding. However, I do have plenty of time & access to a full woodshop. I have been reading about shou shugi ban buildings in Japan & would like to do the same to my house. I did a rough budget for materials & way overestimating coverage area it came out to $1500 of materials to side my entire house if I use framing lumber so this project seems very appealing to me.
Here is how I envision my process from start to finish. I want to resaw 2x8x10’ or 12’ pine boards, send them through a planer & jointer, then run them over a router table to cut in the rabbets on the edge. I figure I can spend the rest of the winter running the stock through all the machines & then char the faces & do all my sanding & sealing in the spring.
My main questions are these. Is it feasible to resaw lumber that large consistently enough to make shiplap from it? What would be the best way to do this? I have a table saw & a bandsaw. I’m also concerned with dimensions after squaring the stock. I would like to reliably replicate consistent duplicates if possible but I’m worried the pieces might end up two thin & narrow after planing and jointing. I will have the guidance of my cabinet building grandfather but I value this community’s insight & wanted to hear from you guys.
submitted by AdequateOtter to woodworking [link] [comments]
Here is how I envision my process from start to finish. I want to resaw 2x8x10’ or 12’ pine boards, send them through a planer & jointer, then run them over a router table to cut in the rabbets on the edge. I figure I can spend the rest of the winter running the stock through all the machines & then char the faces & do all my sanding & sealing in the spring.
My main questions are these. Is it feasible to resaw lumber that large consistently enough to make shiplap from it? What would be the best way to do this? I have a table saw & a bandsaw. I’m also concerned with dimensions after squaring the stock. I would like to reliably replicate consistent duplicates if possible but I’m worried the pieces might end up two thin & narrow after planing and jointing. I will have the guidance of my cabinet building grandfather but I value this community’s insight & wanted to hear from you guys.