The sky is blue. The grass is green. The dirt is cordovan.
A few years ago, Jane and JJ helped me come up with a list of sorts. I call them my truths, things I know for sure are real, are tangible, and aren't delusions. I guess a better name for them would be my reminders. My mind is so preoccupied with putting the pieces together that sometimes I don’t even eat. They’re all written down in a small book, only slightly larger than my hand. The front and back covers are a rich, black leather with the initials “J.D.” imprinted on the front in gold. I keep it with me at all times.
My name is John Doe. I Have a wife, her name is Jane Doe. I have a daughter, her name is Jane Doe.
It’s helpful – it’s prevented a good deal of possible mishaps – but no matter what I’ll never truly be free from what I see. The things that aren’t there – monsters and ghouls, beasts and savages, friends and foes, homes and castles – they’ll always reveal themselves to me. What’s real and what’s not is meant to be a simple distinction, but in a way my delusions have become my reality.
I work under the director of sales for Jakob Incorporated. I live in a green, two story house on Frontal Lane. I work to support my family and home.
I was born silent, too silent. The doctors that assisted in my birth were terrified. A child that doesnt cry when first experiencing the gripping reality of life is the first sign of a multitude of medical problems that, in most cases, end with a two foot long casket and years of self loathing. For seventy-two hours I was poked and prodded endlessly. For the most part I was a perfectly healthy infant. Flush, burning red cheeks, lightly pigmented, feather-soft skin, delicate, twig and paper bones not yet connected at the joints. They drew blood, tested my oxygen levels, and there were endless x-rays and scans. Testing was excruciatingly excessive as they thought they must be missing something. But there was nothing. Except for one thing. For all seventy-two hours, my eyes never shut. Not for even a fraction of a second.
I am prescribed a weekly dosage of high strength eye-drops. I must apply them every hour. They must stay on me at all times
Nothing like my case had ever been seen in all of medical history. An adult man would grow insane after 3 straight days with no sleep, but here was this boy, no, this fetus, had not let out a single cry of agony, or made any noise for that matter. With no real reason to keep me institutionalized, other than the scientific interest any medical professional would have with such a rare occurrence, my mother and father were allowed to check out with me and start their beautiful family. The first thing I ever saw was not the tired, blanched face of my mother, but the lifeless, blue scrubs of an obstetrician. Although his face was completely and utterly shielded from both the elements and facial examination, his eyes showed his horror and worry. Every doctor in that room was prepared to give my parents the dreadful news of my all-too-soon death. By all medical standards, it's a miracle I hadn’t been pronounced dead only a few hours before my birth, Although my life wasn't lost that day, something else – maybe something of much greater importance – did escape from me. Part of my sanity would be permanently stripped of me.
My mothers name is Roe Schmoe. My Fathers name is Joe Schmoe. They died 23 24 25 years ago.
The first few nights for the newly completed schmoe family was fairly normal, some would even go as far to say heavenly. To any parent – especially my 32 year old, highly inexperienced mother and father – A child that makes no fuss is an absolute dream. Quite surprisingly, it took my parents an entire year to realize that I wasn’t sleeping at night. And so again there I was, on that all-too-familiar, white, sterilized hospital bed. My eyes were dryer than prunes. Going so long without any kind of moisture, they were all but entirely destroyed. It's a miracle I have any of my eyesight left, of course my two inch thick glasses do most of my seeing for me. These doctors – although different ones from my first experience – were fascinated all the same. My parents now had a year of experience under their belt and were quite opposed to the idea of testing, especially after the lengthy testing that ensued last time. No form of persuasion led Roe and Joe to change their opinions, and so the saddened doctors were left not with a Nobel prize for the discovery of a new disease, but a hefty check for my eye medication. Over the next years of my life I grew to fear doctors, hell, I still don't trust them. My parents shared this fear and so I never attended any annual check-ups. What do you miss anyways? They take measure you, ask about your diet, then stick you with razor sharp needles. Year after year I was expected to have an uneventful, unwanted, unlovable date with people who see me as their winning lottery ticket. I decided to take a pass on that. For 21 years at least.
I lie awake. I stay awake. I see all.
In school I was a prime target for bullies. To be honest I don't blame them, who would pass up a chance like me? My voice sounded like the all-too-quiet squeak of a mouse. My entire face was covered in puss filled volcanoes, ready to erupt at any given moment. My eyes had nearly sunken into their sockets due to the lack of sleep, and beneath them were ebony black bags of blood and depression. The glasses. Those damned glasses started it all. They started with a classic – four-eyes – and then branched off into more and more creative insults. Zit head, nightwalker, voiceless, crater face, daydreamer, rat, Fuji, 9 to 5, muted. Everyday was another name, another insult, another struggle.
Shadows don’t move on their own. Shadows are predictable. There are no shadowy men.
Keeping my head down for so long, having no one to truly connect with – no one that could comprehend what it was to see through my eyes – it got to me. I never fought back or lashed out, I chose to be passive. It sounds peaceful but it’s no better, in fact I’d argue it’s a lot worse. I didn’t speak to anyone and I didn’t pay attention to anything. Everything – even just existing, making sure to keep myself alive – became a hassle. In my own life I was a passenger, someone just going along for the ride hoping to see the destination. At this rate that last stop was no surprise. I’d be dead.
Count the cash. Fill the till. Lock the doors.
I ended up just barely graduating and getting my high school diploma but to no one’s surprise, college wasn’t an option. My parents weren’t the normal type, I guess it’s because they didn’t have a normal child. Rather than approach me with infuriation and dissatisfaction, they came to me with acceptance and understanding. Don’t paint me the wrong way, I didn’t become a basement dweller because of this although I was still a failure that lived with his parents. I wanted to be better than that. I wanted to do something, anything that would make me a son to be proud of. I had to start from the bottom and it was tough; no matter what anyone tells you, customer service at minimum wage is a grueling task. It’s especially true when your boss takes you to the back every day for talking to a cardboard cutout or even worse, the howling of the wind. It was never fair dealing with what I have to deal with but the truth of life is that it’s not a fair game. I could’ve used it as an excuse and gotten the easy way out. No work, no stress. Just a monthly government check for my “oh woe is me” life story. I wanted to be different, put in every ounce of hard work I possibly could. A few years later, just after my 21st birthday, that work paid off. I got a promotion to assistant manager and with that raise I could finally afford to move out and make a name for myself.
…
I remember the day my parents died all-too-clearly. It was November 31st, just a week after my birthday and a day after my promotion. Joe and Roe were much happier for me than I was for myself. That entire day they grinned ear to ear, so much so I thought their faces would eventually cramp up. My dad called me son instead of John the entire day. My mom called me her young man, all grown up now. They were proud of me and for once I was sure that I was deserving of their love. We went to a small diner outside of town, the Capgras Inn. It was my favorite place to eat out when I was younger. We walked through the glass doors and the place hadn’t changed a bit. The front counter had the same swivel chairs, characterized by their red leather. The surrounding seating was still made up of those small, round, wooden tables, perfect for seating the three of us. The chairs had seats lined with the same red leather and stuffed with what I would guess was nearly forty-year-old and yellowed polyurethane. The fluorescent lighting which would usually be blinding white was so run down that it had become a calm and warming orange. It was nowhere near perfect but that was part of the experience of a mom and pop place, right? I was definitely the child of my parents, we all ordered the exact same thing: a greasy Texas delight. It was a third pound of beef patty with melted provolone and pepper Jack cheese alongside 6 slices of bacon to top it all off. It came with a side of French vanilla ice cream, the best kind of ice cream. There were no toppings of any kind added and as a child I always wanted more. Chocolate syrup, rainbow sprinkles, and sweet whipped cream. I never appreciated the simplicity of the dish until I was older. The IceCream wasn’t some cheap store bought brand, it was always made in house. I could see the work put into the churning, a smooth but crystalline structure embedded into each spoonful. I tasted vanilla of course but there was also a hint of nutmeg and just a pinch of salt. Such small things – details no one would notice – are what make simplicity so beautiful.
Put in the key. Turn on the ignition. Shift into drive.
We were gluttonous in our meal so the walk back to our lotted car was a slow one. Not the kind of slow that’s excruciatingly painful but one that’s savory and heartfelt. It felt how umami tastes, incredible but not perfect, just enough but not too much. We piled into the car. Suddenly that greatness that I felt was oh ever so slightly less than so, just enough for me to notice. My father was at the wheel and we backed out of the lot and rolled towards the highway. He wasn’t the type to fall into road rage but he absolutely couldn’t stand slow drivers. It had just approached evening so no one had started home yet, the streets were empty and free for his speed. As we raced down the road my unease grew. The way my mother held onto the arm of my father helped me to forget for just a moment. I thought that if they couldn’t feel what I did then maybe my mind was just plagued with stress. I had a league of new responsibilities and I couldn’t let Joe and Roe down, not after all I had accomplished. I unbuckled my seatbelt and scooted myself over to the center seat. A better view of the winding mess of asphalt we too quickly sped by. I bumped Into something that shouldn’t have been there. A warm, wet breath creeped down the left side of my neck and for a moment I was too paralyzed with fear to glance up. Honestly I probably didn’t need to, I knew all-too-well what it was. I saw them all over the news, it was that kind of thing that was widespread but you always thought “it could never happen to me, right?” Until it did, and in your naivety – your choice to be unprepared for what you should’ve known to come – you freeze. I stared into what I thought might be its eyes but they were more just deep, sunken, black holes in the center of its face. Maybe it was just the lighting that made it seem that way. It was dark out, the time of day when the world is enveloped entirely in shadows. The head of it was planted against the roof of the car and its long, slender body – all-too-tall for our little cruiser – contorted to the curves of the car. The two of us sat for a moment, or rather what felt like an eternity. We simply stared into each other's eyes. Unblinking. Unmoving. I, waiting for it to do something, anything. And it, waiting for me to drop my guard, even if it was for a moment. It quietly and softly wheezed. The cold breeze from its mouth burned my eyes. I blinked.
Whiplash. Split Lacerations. TBI.
It was Christmas day when I woke up in the hospital bed. The room was that same, blinding, far too pure light. Most would be startled by their new surroundings; although a place meant to be one of safety and comfort, humans can’t help but fear the new and unknown. I, however, was no stranger to these sights: the white sheets, the white lights, the white walls, and the white scrubs. I was no stranger to these sounds: the beeping of the EKG monitor, the matching beat of my pulse, the matching pulse of my mind. And I was no stranger to that face. That nurse — she was young, couldn’t have been any older than me — had trouble hiding her expression. That all-too-familiar awe-stricken look with just a hint of fear. I knew what was to come next, I had prepared for it for the last four weeks. Even in a state of incapacitation, my mind was not given the gift of rest. That realization washed over me in that split second. I had been born with this curse, it was all I had known. I thought I had come to accept it but in that moment I began to wonder: When death comes my way will it force me to lie awake?
My Name is John Doe. I was born November 27th. My blood type is Rhnull.
Only a few moments later and the room was overcrowded. Well, it was only four people really, the young nurse, the head doctor, the chief of police, and myself. But that’s still far too much for a hospital room.
”uhm.. w-what day is-“ the young nurse started, but she was quickly pulled away by the head doctor. She hid herself in the corner of the room and the doctor began where she had left off.
”Could you tell me what day it is, sir?”
”Must be Christmas, look at all those lights” I said as I gestured towards a window on the right of my bed. The streets were flooded with red and green lights and covered in a thick layer of snow.
”Good eye.” He checked something off of a sheet of paper attached to a clipboard, maybe a confirmation of my health. Eyesight and memory maybe.
”How old are you?”
”Just turned 21”
He checked something off.
“What city are we in?”
”Anytown”
He checked something off.
”Can you remind me what your name was?”
”John Schmoe”
He checked something off.
The chief of police was on the right side of my bed, opposite the doctor. He slowly got down to my level, making sure our eyes met. “John” he started, his tone was a bit more serious than that of the doctor, “can you tell me what you can remember about what happened?”
I’d been asked this kind of question before, usually at my old school's main office. At least once a week someone would take the bullying too far and administration had no choice but to do their jobs for once and get involved. “John, could you tell us what happened?” That’s how they’d always start. My answer was always the same, that I could. Of all the terrible things my condition has forced me to deal with there is but one upside to it all: a photographic memory. I mean, it could be something separate. My life is agonizing but I also remember everything I see, I do like to think that they’re connected. I feel as though the unblinking of my eyes allows me to see details that others can’t in those split seconds. Subliminal things that in the end don’t matter but as a whole let me see the full picture.
“We were at the Capgras inn, a roadside diner just a few miles out of town. We were celebrating my promotion and birthday. After that we got into the car, no one was there but us but then…”
I needed a moment to collect my thoughts, I didn’t want to remember that thing or what happened.
“One of those… things. Y’know the ones all over the news right now? I think they’re called stramonium or something. It was just there. I don’t know how it got there or what but I’ve seen what happens. They’re merciless, it’s damn horrific.”
The chief chimed in, “Before you continue, would you mind telling me where everyone in the car was seated?”
“Uh yeah. I was in the left back, mom in front of me, dad in the driver's seat and that monster right next to me.”
“Interesting.”
“Right, well as I was saying I was scared as all hell, couldn’t even move or scream or breathe for a solid minute. My parents didn’t seem to notice it which was good, this one seemed to be the type that reacted to sudden movement. It didn’t do anything for awhile, neither of us did, but at some point my body had to succumb to the urge to blink. So, well, I did.”
I see the world in a way that makes it so I'm not all there, yes, but I’m not some helpless animal. I clawed my way into the world, sinking my talons deep into the earth so that its furious winds of tribulations do not knock me down. In other words: I’ve come up with ways to (sometimes) tell what’s real from what’s not. Fiction in all of its forms is always based in part on the truth. No matter what lies are fabricated, whether it be from man or the mind of man, there is always some inextricably small fragment of what is real. For me, I’ve found that faces can tell the true story. One can choose to lie about an all-too-hefty amount of things, but the body never falters. Criminals can be seen doing it all the time. Many have been found guilty of the crime of lying under oath, and in all of those cases they could be observed twitching their left eyebrow when telling a fabricated story. The twitch of the eye, the wiggling of the ears, the flare of the nostrils; these are all ways in which your body screams for help. Even the most skilled of liars know two things: there is the truth and what has been fabricated and only one truly exists. That fact, one so obvious and so small, is enough to make a grizzly man quake in his boots. I tried to find such expressions on the chief but… nothing. There was nothing at all. No fear, no truth, just what seemed to be a blank abyss that stared into my soul.
“Uhm… the rest was all kind of a blur. I acted on instinct, just like it did, it's probably the only reason I’m able to tell you all right now rather than you prying at my blood splatter on the road. It’s not something that I ever really thought about in detail before but I knew that my father kept grilling supplies in the trunk of the car. ‘Never know when you might wanna set up camp’ is what he’d always say. We drive a pretty old hunk of junk, the type of car where you can easily get to the contents of the trunk from the backseat. I contorted my body in a way to reach the back without breaking eye contact and wrapped my hands around the first thing I could. I could only hope that it was the grill fork. I was lucky. I can’t tell you how many times I stabbed the thing, I went until my arms gave out and then I went some more. After that, well, it's just completely blank. I can’t tell you anything else if I wanted.”
Finally breakining that blank startle and showing a face that almost appeared as human, the chief spoke.
“I think I can finish the story for you Mr. Schmoe. You see we found you in the car at the bottom of a ditch. Nearly a drop of a hundred feet; that's a 10 second drop for a 3000 pound car but just enough jostling around to do some real damage. What we believe to have happened was that your father for one reason or a another — pretty obvious now — got startled at the wheel and swerved off”
“w-wait, where are they now? Where are my parents?”
In Loving Memory. Mother and Daughter. Father and Son.

This is part 2 of my series 'The Second Punic War.' You can find part 1 here: [M4M] [script offer] The siege of Saguntum [historical] [Second Punic War] [ancient times] [Rome] [Carthage] [Hannibal speaker] [soldier listener] [part 1] [TW: War and death] :
I also put the script in scriptbin for ease of recording (I heard some VA's prefer reading it from there): Virtual-Grade592: [MM4M] Second Punic War - scriptbin
This script has 2 speakers, but there is no dialogue between them so a single VA could voice both of them if they wanted to.
The sound effects and actions described can be too detailed or complex to get sfx for. Generic fighting, shouting or walking sounds are fine to use instead. I just try to paint a detailed picture so that it is more clear what is going on and hopefully it helps you perform the lines if you want to fill this.
It's okay to fill this script and make minor adjustments. Please give me credit for writing the script and put a link in the comments so that I can find your audio. It's okay to paywall, but send me a copy of the audio then.
(Not long after the previous part, the city of Saguntum would be taken and sacked. In response Rome declared war on Carthage. Hannibal has marched his army north into Gaul (modern day France). In Gaul Hannibal makes allies with several Gaulic tribes, which join his army and serve as guides for this area. A Roman army lead by consul Scipio (father of Scipio Africanus, a character important for later in the series, Scipio Africanus was probably present in his father’s army) has gathered at the city Massalia (modern day Marseille), ready to confront the Carthaginian army. However Hannibal has avoided contact with his enemy. He leads his army further north and east, around Massalia. A Gaulic tribe nabbed the Volcae refuse to give Hannibal passage through their land and battle him on the banks of the Rhone river. The Carthaginians were victorious and reached the Alps before the Roman army could catch up to them. In October of 218 BC Hannibal starts his famous crossing of the Alps, wanting to reach Italy before winter. This crossing is tough, with many casualties from exhaustion and betrayal from the local tribe the Centrones. The army rests for 2 days at the top of the last mountain, overlooking the Po valley. They wait for stragglers to catch up. One of those straggles is the listener, who a Gaulic guide finds injured and tired on the slope of the mountain. For this script the 2 speakers are Hannibal and the guide who found the listener. I’ll be using H to indicate when Hannibal talks and G to indicate when the Gaul talks.)
[footsteps from the Gaul descend from the mountain]
G: *concerned* Oh dear, you don’t look good soldier. That swell on your leg looks nasty. Can you still use it?
[pause]
No? What about your other leg?
[pause]
G: *a bit relieved* Oh good. Then let me help you get up.
[sound of the Gaul lifting the listener up]
G: There, just lean against me. We can take it step by step. There we go. Slow and steady. Together we’ll get you to camp.
[slow footsteps as the listener hobbles on one leg]
G: Good soldier, keep going. When we get to camp, you can rest and let that leg heal.
[footsteps slow down]
G: *trying to be uplifting for the listener* Hey, don’t give up. It’s not as far as you think. They are waiting at the top of the mountain. You can make it, I’m sure of it.
[the pace keeps going]
G: Yeah that’s it. These damned mountains aren’t going to be the end of you. The land of the Romans await and we need all of us to conquer it.
[footsteps continue]
G: Where did you get that injury?
[footsteps continue]
G: Oh you got lucky then. I’ve seen much worse wounds from the boulders of the Centrones. Several troops got outright crushed when they betrayed us and tossed those rocks on us.
[footsteps continue]
G: *saddened* Yeah sorrow has followed us since we’ve set foot on these mountains. The general wanted to avoid a fight with the Romans, but we still did battle here. It feels like we’ve suffered more than if we had faced the consul at the Rhone.
[footsteps continue]
G: *trying to be optimistic* It’s better if we do not dwell on the past. The future lies beyond that mountain. Our army will pour into Italy. Finally we can bring the war to the homes of our enemies. Coincidently my home is beyond there as well.
[footsteps continue]
G: My tribe, the Boii, have lived there since time immemorial. We have been lifelong enemies of Rome and we’ve even sacked their ‘great’ city once. However we have been pushed back, with our back to the mountains and the ever expanding Romans bearing down on us. *vengeful* I remember their legion, burning my hometown to the ground and killing my father. I saw the shining feathered helmet of their leader, Lucius Postumius Albinus. That day I swore an oath to find that man and kill him. If this war brings me face to face with him, the last words he’ll hear shall be: “Hello, my name is Adiatorix, you killed my father, prepare to die.”
[footsteps continue]
G: *with admiration* I could tell when your envoy spoke to our tribe that your general is a man of vision with a brilliant mind to back it up. If I have any chance to get revenge, it is under his command.
[footsteps continue]
G: What about you? Why are you fighting this war?
[footsteps continue]
G: *resonating with the listener* We have a lot in common Carthaginian. You fight to protect your home and people, same as me. It’s good to know there are men of honour in this army.
[footsteps continue]
G: *sounding a bit disillusioned* You know what it means. The majority of this force isn’t fighting for their country or another noble cause, they are fighting for money. I learned to speak Carthaginian because Carthage is Rome’s biggest rival and I wanted to join any war against Rome. But I’ve hardly spoken it since joining this army. Most soldiers are Iberians, Numidians or Libyans. They take more pride in displaying their wealth than their insignia or war trophies. It makes me feel out of place.
[footsteps continue]
G: More troops in the army is fine and all, but when the battle gets tough and victory is uncertain, will those mercenaries remain and fight or will they flee?
[footsteps continue]
G: *dismissive* I saw their success in our battle against the Volcae. However at the Rhone we had them outflanked. They didn’t notice Hanno’s contingent until their northern flank was overrun. It’s easy to be brave in a winning battle. It’s far harder to show courage when you are loosing and the enemy’s spears are closing in.
[footsteps continue]
G: *reconsidering his opinion* Oh, the mercenaries also fought bravely at Saguntum? But hadn’t you won that siege?
[footsteps continue]
G: Wait a minute. Hannibal got incapacitated and they still kept their cool? Impressive. Perhaps they have the guts to make it through this war. Though I’ll have to see them hold up to scrutiny myself before I will trust them with my life.
[footsteps continue]
G: *chuckles* Too true. They’ll probably charge me if they save my life. And knowing their prices I bet they get paid in bars of gold instead of coins.
[footsteps continue]
G: *hopeful* We’re getting close now. I can faintly hear the voices from the camp. Soon you can rest your leg under a warm blanket.
[footsteps continue]
G: Not the worst ordeal you’ve gone through lately? Alright I’ll bite. Tell me of this great struggle you’ve dealt with.
[footsteps continue]
G: *incredulous* You’re pulling my leg. You cannot honestly have carried an injured Hannibal from the battlefield. It makes for a good campfire story, but I wasn’t born yesterday.
[footsteps continue]
G: You’re serious?
[footsteps continue]
G: Sure I’ll talk to that squad you were with. But if they don’t corroborate your story, you have to buy me a beer.
[footsteps continue]
G: Alright it’s a deal.
[footsteps finally stop]
G: Here we are. Lay down, you’ve earned a rest after this trek.
[listener lays down]
G: Let’s get you an extra warm blanket. I know you’re not used to a cold climate, so I’m getting you a bear pelt, that always kept me warm as a kid.
[the listener is covered by the blanket]
G: It looks like we arrived just in time, your general is about to give a speech.
[from further away, G and the listener can hear Hannibal shout]
H: *boisterous* Comrades, friends and allies, We have reached the end of this gruelling ordeal. We have faced many obstacles, from politicians in the senate trying to sabotage us, the allies of Rome facing us and traitors stabbing us in the back, but none of them have succeeded!
[the crowd bangs their weapons on their shields in agreement. Metal clanging sfx is sufficient for this part]
H: For nearly 2 centuries, no army has touched Rome. They have pushed any threat to their city out of Italy. The Gauls have been moved beyond the Po river. The Greeks were driven back to their islands. And the Italian clans have been subjugated. From today onwards we will undo all the work of the Romans. We shall invade Italy along with our Gaulish allies. We shall ferry the Greeks across the Ionian Sea. We will make the Italians rise up against Rome. And finally we will lay waste to the city itself, salt the earth and leave their whole nation in ruin.
[the crowd cheers. G gestures towards the elephant besides Hannibal]
G: *sounds quiet compared to the crowd* hey, do you know what that animal next to general Hannibal is?
[pause]
G: *somewhat in awe* Oh an elephant. It must have been difficult taming that thing.
[pause]
G: Yeah they look majestic. What can they do?
[pasue]
G: Really, you can mount them? I bet you’ll feel like a king atop one of them. Have you ever ridden one?
[pause]
G: No? *teasing* Well next time you rescue the general, ask him if you can ride one.
[pause]
G: this may sound selfish, but I’ve prayed many times for a way to beat the Romans. Seeing this I think the gods finally answered my prayers.

Cordovan talks about his time at PAX EAST in this week's stream:
News

• Update 39.1.1 next Wednesday (9min). Cordovan will finish Release Notes today (20min).
  
  • Bounty-hunter works with Mariner (4min). Delving teal gear added (5min). Title now works (6min). Adjustments to instances (6min). Set Bonus fixes (8min).
• April Fools Event with chickens March 31st - April 2nd (9min).
  
• New lootbox and barterer rewards (11min).
  
• Cordovan plans to raid with strangers but can't decide whether they should know the instance or go in blind on Landroval server (49min - 51min, 54min)
  
• Scenario Casual Stroll next Wednesday 2pm (57min).
  

Meetup

• Cordovan is tired (1min). Lasted from 7pm to 11pm. Hit their 300 capacity but no waiting line (2min).
• Cordovan liked telling someone a developer was sitting next to them (3min).
• Cordovan hauled all the swag (15min). Gave out Before the Shadow shirts (31min). Can only give through promotions (33min).
• Better if you attend on a Thursday with less crowds (16min - 18min).
• Larian Studios for Baldur's Gate 3 was cool (18min). Dunkin' Donuts was there - very Boston (27min).
• Had a sandwich for $15 to $20 convention pricing (19min, 20min).
• Intense wind and chill of 20 degrees made it hard to cosplay (24min, 25min). Some still wore armor or matching shirts for their kinship (23min). Cordovan would like to do a costume contest at some point (26min).
• The trip takes Cordovan about 1 hour and 20 minutes (25min).

Other

• "Figments of Splendour Vendor" is hard to say (12min).
• "Bird is the Word" for Chapter 8.4 (32min).
• It would take work to maintain a dwarven beard. You'll need proper grooming and the right beard oil (44min - 46min).

2+ years wear
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6 Months Wear
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Build: Stock ML build from Wesco, 04/2020 build date (i didn't get them and start wearing them until 4/2021), possibly one of the first batches I'm not sure, size 8.5 E
Fit: I've mentioned this before in other comment threads / SDP Discord / and other places. the ML pattern and last has produced for me the best fitting engineer boot I have ever worn, and unfortunately I have tried a LOT of them before getting to this point. I have a wide forefoot, but not a terribly wide heel, so it is hard to find a compatible last. Additionally I really appreciate the tightened up shaft of the ML, it really improves the fit, and makes them more easily wearable with slimmer cuts of jeans.
Oh and on the fit, this was the first pair of boots where i had the cojones to try the 'get em wet and walk em dry' break in method and I approve, wholeheartedly. I filled em up with hot tap water and let them soak for an hour or 2 and then dumped em out, put them on and wore them for like a 16 hour day of outdoor building projects. The fit is money.
Use: You can see, particularly in the 6 months pics that i have not been easy on these. I haven't particularly abused them or anything, but I have worn them for a lot of DIY stuff, yard work, land maintenance, and they have held up really nicely.
Leather: I know that various types of hides have been used to build MLs over the years, these I'm certain are Horween Horsehide, as they've got some stamping inside. My experience with this leather is ultimately why I'm doing this write-up. And here's why: I have previously posted about not being super impressed with the Horween horsehide. I have mentioned that to me, it is basically a more expensive version of steerhide CXL with all the same drawbacks and not really any tangible benefits over steer CXL and I've had Shinki before and currently have Maryam and I prefer the look of those over the combo tanned stuff from Horween. Another thing that irked me about it was that the leather wasn't very lustrous, it always seemed kind of dull / greasy and it bloomed a lot and even with a lot of brushing it never really shined up and always just looked kind of meh. Well, you can see in the 2 year pics that i have finally fixed that! I still don't really know what the issue was, like was this hide just really oily, does Horween hot stuff a LOT of product into these hides that just takes a while to wear off, was there some kind of mystery coating put on at the factory, idk. But what i do know is that i got tired of them never really looking like i wanted them to, and so what I did to get these to how they look in the 2 year pics is to painstakingly strip them down with Renomat and rubbing alcohol until the used cotton balls were coming back clean, then i conditioned with Renovateur, then did a coat of neutral Cordovan Creme, then a few coats of Saphir MDO neutral, and finally a 'spit' shine with Saphir Mirror Gloss. To me, these finally look like vintage horsehide engineer boots now. I specifically went with all neutral products as i love the teacore look and i hope it fades more over time TBH, so the thought of putting black polish on is heresy. And yeah, they might in fact be too shiny for some, maybe i had some flashbacks to basic training, but for my personal taste, i really love the look of aged leather that's been cared for and brushed and waxed and burnished a little by the hem of your jeans etc. To me, that is the kind of patina that i am after. I also worked a little magic on the soles/edges/heel stacks because they are an often over-looked part of the package and i want them to look as good as the uppers.
Final thoughts: I have a weird obsession with engineer boots, and I have lost an uncomfortable amount of money to get to this point. trying everything from Chippewa to Role Club, Lofgren, Clinch, Attractions. These MLs are the only ones I now have, and they'll be with me for the long haul, particularly now that I have them looking just how i wanted. I know these are fighting words, but for me the Wesco ML is the best engineer boot available at ANY price point.
​

Dear all, Where can I order a few nice soles in a size 47,5/13 in Europe ideally from within the EU. I’m especially looking for Vibram: Christy 4014 Ripple 7124 Gloxi Cut 2060 Mini Lug 430 Eton/Dainite V lug 700 Bonus points if they sell additional shoemaking materials (pretty speedhooks and eyelets and such). Dr. Sole is of course an option but the shipping makes them quite expensive.
Background: Apart from that I hope I can share some progress soon. I’m an industrial designer by trade and have been working with leather in my increasingly rare free time for a few years and am overall pretty good with my hands and also fairly stubborn. Last month I’ve ordered custom lasts from Spenlé in Germany. I sent them foam impressions and measurements and already got a friendly email asking about a detail because I also sent them a 3D scan I made with my iPhone. Click here if you are insisting on seeing my (scanned) feet.
My main motivation for wanting to make my own shoes is comfort. I’ve got flat feet and very straight, long and large big toes that give me pain when squeezed in round or pointy shoes. Heels are narrow and I have a low instep.
I’ve taken apart a pair of RW Iron Rangers to re-last them on the new lasts and see if/what modifications are necessary. Album here. I’ve never been a fan of these and had them since ca 2009. Bought them used with minimal wear. They have too much volume for me and the insole is cracked and uncomfortable. And I’m really tired of seeing them everywhere. I’ve stripped the uppers with alcohol and dyed them black and also removed that cursed toe stiffener. Might replace textile lining with leather. Pictures here
I’ve also taken apart a pair of Pecos that I’ve bought second hand but that are too wide for me and won’t stay on. These are kind of cool and the leather is in good condition apart from the previous owner caking them in wax. Album for the Pecos here
When the Iron Rangers are relasted and I can check the fit of the lasts I’m planning on trying my hand on a pair of derby boots or chukkas. Right now I’m on my flight back home from a work trip to Vienna where I stopped by Kolde leather and was really impressed by the super friendly and helpful staff. They have a huge and beautiful selection of shoe making specific leathers. Horween russian hatch, Cordovan, cool waterproof options, JR Rendenbach and Martin sole leathers in all thicknesses and also a big selection of random, single rolls of leather for 26€/squaremeter. Album here
Hope to be receiving the lasts in January and will share some update.
Edit: added a link for the 2060 soles so my scanned feet are not the preview🫣

I see what I would call a pleathora of posts mainly on the Facebook "Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts" group, and the sub-reddits allenedmonds and goodyearwelt with people new to higher end shoes, asking if something they see as a problem is something they should return their shoes over. This post is meant to help clear the air on this issue. Of course the views stated here are mine, so you are free to disagree and act accordingly.
I'm Robert Powers, aka "Cobbler Bob". I've been running a YouTube channel since October of 2016, which currently has almost 14k subscribers. I like to find, repair, and polish old shoes. I currently own 28 pairs of dress shoes & boots, of which 12 pairs are Allen Edmonds. I haven't counted, but I've be bought, polished, and resold a few hundred pairs of shoes that mainly come from local thrift stores or eBay.
Premise: Have you been purchasing what I would call a "cheap" shoe, and finally decided to step up to a full grain Goodyear Welted shoe, only to have your heart sink when open the box because you found a flaw? First, what do I define as a "cheap" shoe? To me it's a shoe you'll probably pay $50-$150 for that probably has corrected grain or fake leather uppers, has a bonded on rubber sole, or has a sole that has the appearance of being stitched but isn't.
Allen Edmonds is often refeered to as the "gateway drug" to high end shoes. That reference means that they're generally not as high quality as true high end shoes like Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, TLB Mallorca Artista line, Gaziano & Girling, Magnanni, or even Alden, etc, but because they are often on sale, they are able to be purchased at a price point not out of reach for most people ($200-$350). So the question is, if I spent $50 to $150 dollars on a "cheap" shoe that's pretty much perfect looking out of the box every time, why when I spend $250 to $350 for a shoe like Allen Edmonds, why isn't it perfect every time?
The Wisconsin Shoeguy (YouTube: "Wi Shoeguy") said it best on a video interview on my channel: Allen Edmonds isn't so concerned with how the shoe looks out of the box, but they're more concerned with the longevity of the shoe. I agree.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kL3Ss_reQ4U&t=8s
Reason one: Shoes with Full Grain leather uppers and either 270 degree or 360 degree Goodyear Welted leather soles are made from natural materials. Corrected grain leather is cheap leather coated with some kind of polymer coating. This coating covers all flaws in the leather, and gives it a durable scuff resistant surface. In my experience though, all of the shoes made recently (since 2000-ish) of corrected grain leather outside the USA will crack and split. It also is not as breathable, and sometimes the coating wears off to reveal a lighter shade, and you can't re-color it with polish. With the full grain leather, you're seeing the actual surface of the animal's hide. It's coming from what was a breathing animal. Phil Kalas, owner of Ashland Leather Co told me in a "Leather Talk" interview that leather tanning is taking an inconsistent raw material, and trying to make a consistent end product. It's not easy! But when done right, the end product can last for decades with superior beauty.
Reason two: The soles of a cheap shoe are often a one piece injection molded sole with fake stitches molded in, and the heel even molded on. A step up from this is an injection molded sole made to look like leather, with a fake plastic welt. The welt will often have stitches on it, and the sole will have stitches on the bottom side, but the stitch count per inch is usually different from the bottom to the top, prooving that they don't acually hold anything on and are purely decorative."How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching"video: The GYW (Goodyear Welted) shoe sole must be cut, trimmed, grooved, stitched on, finished, then have (with AE) a 2 part heel base bonded and nailed on, then a top lift bonded on and finish sanded, then dyed to color. There are a lot more parts versus a standard shoe. AEs are not "hand made", they're machine made by a human operator, but the level of skill and number of steps taken are far greater than the cheap shoe. Therefore there are many more opportunities for small errors.
**Problem #1: burnishing/patina irregularities:**
Full grain leather, especially in the lighter shades is gorgeous. Walnut and ligher colors often have a burnishing applied (darkening at the tips of the toes, around the eye stays, and/or the sides of the vamp). With AE (Allen Edmonds) I believe this finishs is applied by hand with an airbrush. There can be inconsistencies with this finish, and it can have areas that are too dark or too inconsistent for your liking. Here is what it usually looks like: (pic 1)
https://imgur.com/ws60SFV
Here is one you may not like: (pic 2)
https://imgur.com/zsmpiui
notice it's more irregular, and the transition from dark to light is not as even. I'd be fine with the above, especially if it was less than $300.
Here is pic #3, the heel on my AE Strands (the same shoe in pic #1):
https://imgur.com/RFyBDOX
Notice the dark to light sudden transition. I'm perfectly okay with it. Again, it's a natural material, and the irregularity is still beautiful to me. You can even this out if you'd like with a medium brown cream shoe polish. I paid $315 for them and I'm a-okay with it. I consider it character.
**Problem #2: crazing/cracking of the burnishing, usually on the toes: (pic 4):**
https://imgur.com/rptqqgV
I am guessing that the finish either dried too quickly and contracted, or the toes were flattened at some point. Either way, with some darker cream polish the color of the burnishing, and a few coats of wax polish on the toes (I would mirror shine it) that should dissapear. I would not return this shoe, I'd be mirror shining the toes anyway.
**Problem 3: Construction & Finishing issues:**
If you get this, where the stitching goes off the welt, RETURN it. This is a major structural problem. These are my AE MacNeils that had to be returned to AE and a new welt and outsoles were put on. See pics #5/6 below:
https://imgur.com/jGgHymN
This is also major. The black thread is the top thread, indicating impropper thread tension. Return it (pic 7)https://imgur.com/1ABQnuT
This is minor. It's a piece of thread or leather trapped under the top welt stitch. Grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and it should pull out. Now if the top thread is left loose, then you may want to return it, but I think this one would be fine. Pic 8 below:
https://imgur.com/lVIy6mm
These shoes have a turned up lip on the welt, called a split reverse welt. Notice the lip is smushed. See below pic 9/10:
https://imgur.com/KnhLgGC
Why do you have this on an expensive shoe and not a cheap one? Because most cheap shoes either don't have a welt at all, or if they do, it's not structural, and it's made of cheap injection molded plastic and has a costmetic only stitch, that although looks perfect every time, it will not last very long. Moisten the leather, and take a hard smooth object like the tip of a retractable pen or a pointed wooden dowel like a big chopstick or drumstick and smooth it back flat. It may not go back completely flat, but after it dries it will probably be smooth enought to not notice.
The sole stitch goes outside of the groove, like this in pic #11https://imgur.com/F5AeL30This is a pair of AEs made in 2001. If this happens on the arch area where the threads won't contact the ground, let it go. It won't hurt anything. If the stitching on the sole is not 100% tidy, let it go. If this happends on the area where you walk, and the threads will break through prematurely, I'd return.
Minor scuffs out of the box, see pic #12/13 below:https://imgur.com/rboWPjV95+% of the scuffs I see posted will go away with a little cream shoe polish. I'm a believer of polishing new shoes out of the box anyway, so it's no extra work for me. Remember, cheap corrected grain or fake leather has a plastic coating on the outside and is more scuff resistant. The downside to it though is when it does get scratched, it's harder to cover or correct. Full grain leather does show scuffs easier, but because of it's pliability and porousness, it readily accepts polish and conditioning creams better. You can polish out even light to moderate scratches, because the surface has no coating to abraid through. Polish these and move on, unless it's severe enought to where material has been removed.
This one is a cut, not a scratch, and it's on an area that is stressesd. RETURN without wearing it. See pic #14 below:
https://imgur.com/jSmKdXB
This next one, pic #15 below looks really bad for a new shoe. It appears as if someone poked holes through the upper. Believe it or not, but if you moisten the leather with moisturizer and rub it with a blunt object, like the blunt smooth end of a screwdriver handle, and back up the inside with your thumb, you can close those holes up to where polish will cover what's left. If I got a pair of AEs for LESS than $300 with these holes, and everything else was perfect, I'd burnish the holes shut as I stated above and be happy. If I paid full price and was not "handy", I would consider returning.
https://imgur.com/qEzq7Sj
**Problem area #4: Loose Grain:**
Loose grain is a term to describe leather that is unusally wrinkly. It happens because the leather closer to the belly of the animal does not have the same properties as the areas closer to the spine and rump. Manufacturers are proabably trying to use more and more of the hyde to decrease material waste, and sometimes push it too far. In short, there is no fixing this, so decide quickly if you can live with it or not.Remember, this may not show up until you walk in them. Here's MY OPINION of some to follow:
Pic #16, my AE Achesons I bought new from AE directly on sale for $97... loose grain on the left shoe. They were $97, I am fine with it. Now if they were $297, back they would go.
https://imgur.com/53qPEPi
Pic #17/18: in my opinion, the boots on the left would be okay IF they were purchased on sale at a good price, but the Oxfords on the right are terrible and I'd return them at any price, especially since the person here said the other shoe was perfect, and this was after one wear:
https://imgur.com/P9KLYiB
**I've saved the best for last... problem #5: THE WELT JOINT:**
To understand this one, you must understand what a welt is, and why it must have a joint. Did you know an automotive tire is made from flat rubber? Every traditional tire has a joint. The welt is a flat piece of leather, and on a 360 degree GYW shoe, it wraps all the way around the shoe. It therefore has a starting and stopping point. The welt is stitched onto the insole via the gemming and to the upper.
Here is a video explaining in detail the welt and how a Goodyear Welted shoe is constructed:
https://i.ytimg.com/an_webp/fpEpqJ0eO0g/mqdefault_6s.webp?du=3000&sqp=CNDqgp0G&rs=AOn4CLD1U1mN7fZWlnSXzRkArxLfqyBiUg
The welt is what the outsole of a GYW shoe is stitched too. Sometimes the welt joint is invisible, like pics #19 & #20 below:https://imgur.com/SEe3Kew
Sometimes it's neat, but visible like these next three examples, #21, 22, 23:
https://imgur.com/4VKYkuG
FYI, that last photo directly above, #23, is from a pair of Florsheim shell cordovan 93605's made in the 1970's or 1980's:
These next two examples,pic #24/25 are not as neat, but 100% functional. Don't return them:
https://imgur.com/nBPfa9d
Does this make sense? Allen Edmonds says that their Goodyear Welted shoes go though 212 different manufacturing steps. It's a whole different animal than a "cheap shoe". Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying some of these errors are okay. I'm saying that if you buy a new Goodyear Welted shoe on sale for less than $300, or in some cases less than $250, do not expect to get the same quality as an $800 Church's or Crockett & Jones, or a $500 Alden that won't go on sale. So if these minor errors are too egregious for you to live with, you'll need to step up to the $450 and UP range for a pair of shoes.
Justin Fitzpatrick talks about the welt joint in his article on The Shoe Snob:
https://theshoesnobblog.com/tag/justin-fitzpatrick/

Welt Joining - Good vs Bad

The Shoe Snob blog is about seeing men wearing better shoes through education and sharing what is out there that deserves recognition.📷 theshoesnobblog.com.
I hope this helps, and here's a link to a video version of this article on my YouTube channel:
https://youtu.be/CnYL3HkR0r8

I see what I would call a pleathora of posts mainly on the Facebook "Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts" group, and the sub-reddits allenedmonds and goodyearwelt with people new to higher end shoes, asking if something they see as a problem is something they should return their shoes over. This post is meant to help clear the air on this issue. Of course the views stated here are mine, so you are free to disagree and act accordingly.
I'm Robert Powers, aka "Cobbler Bob". I've been running a YouTube channel since October of 2016, which currently has almost 14k subscribers. I like to find, repair, and polish old shoes. I currently own 28 pairs of dress shoes & boots, of which 12 pairs are Allen Edmonds. I haven't counted, but I've be bought, polished, and resold a few hundred pairs of shoes that mainly come from local thrift stores or eBay.
Premise: Have you been purchasing what I would call a "cheap" shoe, and finally decided to step up to a full grain Goodyear Welted shoe, only to have your heart sink when open the box because you found a flaw? First, what do I define as a "cheap" shoe? To me it's a shoe you'll probably pay $50-$150 for that probably has corrected grain or fake leather uppers, has a bonded on rubber sole, or has a sole that has the appearance of being stitched but isn't.
Allen Edmonds is often refeered to as the "gateway drug" to high end shoes. That reference means that they're generally not as high quality as true high end shoes like Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, TLB Mallorca Artista line, Gaziano & Girling, Magnanni, or even Alden, etc, but because they are often on sale, they are able to be purchased at a price point not out of reach for most people ($200-$350). So the question is, if I spent $50 to $150 dollars on a "cheap" shoe that's pretty much perfect looking out of the box every time, why when I spend $250 to $350 for a shoe like Allen Edmonds, why isn't it perfect every time?
The Wisconsin Shoeguy (YouTube: "Wi Shoeguy") said it best on a video interview on my channel: Allen Edmonds isn't so concerned with how the shoe looks out of the box, but they're more concerned with the longevity of the shoe. I agree.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kL3Ss_reQ4U&t=8s
Reason one: Shoes with Full Grain leather uppers and either 270 degree or 360 degree Goodyear Welted. leather soles are made from natural materials. Corrected grain leather is cheap leather coated with some kind of polymer coating. This coating covers all flaws in the leather, and gives it a durable scuff resistant surface. In my experience though, all of the shoes made recently (since 2000-ish) of corrected grain leather outside the USA will crack and split. It also is not as breathable, and sometimes the coating wears off to reveal a lighter shade, and you can't re-color it with polish. With the full grain leather, you're seeing the actual surface of the animal's hide. It's coming from what was a breathing animal. Phil Kalas, owner of Ashland Leather Co told me in a "Leather Talk" interview that leather tanning is taking an inconsistent raw material, and trying to make a consistent end product. It's not easy! But when done right, the end product can last for decades with superior beauty.
Reason two: The soles of a cheap shoe are often a one piece injection molded sole with fake stitches molded in, and the heel even molded on. A step up from this is an injection molded sole made to look like leather, with a fake plastic welt. The welt will often have stitches on it, and the sole will have stitches on the bottom side, but the stitch count per inch is usually different from the bottom to the top, prooving that they don't acually hold anything on and are purely decorative."How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching"video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oRWEzvoVe8&t=6s
The GYW (Goodyear Welted) shoe sole must be cut, trimmed, grooved, stitched on, finished, then have (with AE) a 2 part heel base bonded and nailed on, then a top lift bonded on and finish sanded, then dyed to color. There are a lot more parts versus a standard shoe. AEs are not "hand made", they're machine made by a human operator, but the level of skill and number of steps taken are far greater than the cheap shoe. Therefore there are many more opportunities for small errors.
**Problem #1: burnishing/patina irregularities:**
Full grain leather, especially in the lighter shades is gorgeous. Walnut and ligher colors often have a burnishing applied (darkening at the tips of the toes, around the eye stays, and/or the sides of the vamp). With AE (Allen Edmonds) I believe this finishs is applied by hand with an airbrush. There can be inconsistencies with this finish, and it can have areas that are too dark or too inconsistent for your liking. Here is what it usually looks like: (pic 1):
https://imgur.com/ws60SFV
Here is one you may not like: (pic 2)
https://imgur.com/zsmpiui
notice it's more irregular, and the transition from dark to light is not as even. I'd be fine with the above, especially if it was less than $300.
Here is pic #3, the heel on my AE Strands (the same shoe in pic #1):
https://imgur.com/RFyBDOX
Notice the dark to light sudden transition. I'm perfectly okay with it. Again, it's a natural material, and the irregularity is still beautiful to me. You can even this out if you'd like with a medium brown cream shoe polish. I paid $315 for them and I'm a-okay with it. I consider it character.
**Problem #2: crazing/cracking of the burnishing, usually on the toes:** (pic 4):
https://imgur.com/rptqqgV
I am guessing that the finish either dried too quickly and contracted, or the toes were flattened at some point. Either way, with some darker cream polish the color of the burnishing, and a few coats of wax polish on the toes (I would mirror shine it) that should dissapear. I would not return this shoe, I'd be mirror shining the toes anyway.
**Problem 3: Construction & Finishing issues:**
If you get this, where the stitching goes off the welt, RETURN it. This is a major structural problem. These are my AE MacNeils that had to be returned to AE and a new welt and outsoles were put on. See pics #5/6 below:
https://imgur.com/jGgHymN
This is also major. The black thread is the top thread, indicating impropper thread tension. Return it (pic 7):
https://imgur.com/1ABQnuT
This is minor. It's a piece of thread or leather trapped under the top welt stitch. Grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and it should pull out. Now if the top thread is left loose, then you may want to return it, but I think this one would be fine. Pic 8 below:
https://imgur.com/lVIy6mm
These shoes have a turned up lip on the welt, called a split reverse welt. Notice the lip is smushed. See below pic 9/10:
https://imgur.com/KnhLgGC
Why do you have this on an expensive shoe and not a cheap one? Because most cheap shoes either don't have a welt at all, or if they do, it's not structural, and it's made of cheap injection molded plastic and has a costmetic only stitch, that although looks perfect every time, it will not last very long. Moisten the leather, and take a hard smooth object like the tip of a retractable pen or a pointed wooden dowel like a big chopstick or drumstick and smooth it back flat. It may not go back completely flat, but after it dries it will probably be smooth enought to not notice.
The sole stitch goes outside of the groove, like this in pic #11:
https://imgur.com/F5AeL30
This is a pair of AEs made in 2001. If this happens on the arch area where the threads won't contact the ground, let it go. It won't hurt anything. If the stitching on the sole is not 100% tidy, let it go. If this happends on the area where you walk, and the threads will break through prematurely, I'd return.
Minor scuffs out of the box, see pic #12/13 below:
https://imgur.com/rboWPjV
95+% of the scuffs I see posted will go away with a little cream shoe polish. I'm a believer of polishing new shoes out of the box anyway, so it's no extra work for me. Remember, cheap corrected grain or fake leather has a plastic coating on the outside and is more scuff resistant. The downside to it though is when it does get scratched, it's harder to cover or correct. Full grain leather does show scuffs easier, but because of it's pliability and porousness, it readily accepts polish and conditioning creams better. You can polish out even light to moderate scratches, because the surface has no coating to abraid through. Polish these and move on, unless it's severe enought to where material has been removed.
This one is a cut, not a scratch, and it's on an area that is stressesd. RETURN without wearing it. See pic #14 below:
https://imgur.com/jSmKdXB
This next one, pic #15 below looks really bad for a new shoe. It appears as if someone poked holes through the upper. Believe it or not, but if you moisten the leather with moisturizer and rub it with a blunt object, like the blunt smooth end of a screwdriver handle, and back up the inside with your thumb, you can close those holes up to where polish will cover what's left. If I got a pair of AEs for LESS than $300 with these holes, and everything else was perfect, I'd burnish the holes shut as I stated above and be happy. If I paid full price and was not "handy", I would consider returning.
https://imgur.com/qEzq7Sj
**Problem area #4: Loose Grain:**
Loose grain is a term to describe leather that is unusally wrinkly. It happens because the leather closer to the belly of the animal does not have the same properties as the areas closer to the spine and rump. Manufacturers are proabably trying to use more and more of the hyde to decrease material waste, and sometimes push it too far. In short, there is no fixing this, so decide quickly if you can live with it or not.Remember, this may not show up until you walk in them. Here's MY OPINION of some to follow:
Pic #16, my AE Achesons I bought new from AE directly on sale for $97... loose grain on the left shoe. They were $97, I am fine with it. Now if they were $297, back they would go.
https://imgur.com/53qPEPi
Pic #17/18: in my opinion, the boots on the left would be okay IF they were purchased on sale at a good price, but the Oxfords on the right are terrible and I'd return them at any price, especially since the person here said the other shoe was perfect, and this was after one wear:
https://imgur.com/P9KLYiB
**I've saved the best for last... problem #5: THE WELT JOINT:**
To understand this one, you must understand what a welt is, and why it must have a joint. Did you know an automotive tire is made from flat rubber? Every traditional tire has a joint. The welt is a flat piece of leather, and on a 360 degree GYW shoe, it wraps all the way around the shoe. It therefore has a starting and stopping point. The welt is stitched onto the insole via the gemming and to the upper.
Here is a video explaining in detail the welt and how a Goodyear Welted shoe is constructed:
https://i.ytimg.com/an_webp/fpEpqJ0eO0g/mqdefault_6s.webp?du=3000&sqp=CNDqgp0G&rs=AOn4CLD1U1mN7fZWlnSXzRkArxLfqyBiUg
The welt is what the outsole of a GYW shoe is stitched too. Sometimes the welt joint is invisible, like pics #19 & #20 below:
https://imgur.com/SEe3Kew
Sometimes it's neat, but visible like these next three examples, #21, 22, 23:
https://imgur.com/4VKYkuG
FYI, that last photo directly above, #23, is from a pair of Florsheim shell cordovan 93605's made in the 1970's or 1980's:
These next two examples,pic #24/25 are not as neat, but 100% functional. Don't return them:
https://imgur.com/nBPfa9d
Does this make sense? Allen Edmonds says that their Goodyear Welted shoes go though 212 different manufacturing steps. It's a whole different animal than a "cheap shoe". Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying some of these errors are okay. I'm saying that if you buy a new Goodyear Welted shoe on sale for less than $300, or in some cases less than $250, do not expect to get the same quality as an $800 Church's or Crockett & Jones, or a $500 Alden that won't go on sale. So if these minor errors are too egregious for you to live with, you'll need to step up to the $450 and UP range for a pair of shoes.
Justin Fitzpatrick talks about the welt joint in his article on The Shoe Snob:
https://theshoesnobblog.com/tag/justin-fitzpatrick/

Welt Joining - Good vs Bad

The Shoe Snob blog is about seeing men wearing better shoes through education and sharing what is out there that deserves recognition.📷 theshoesnobblog.com
I hope this helps, and here's a link to a video version of this article on my YouTube channel:
https://youtu.be/CnYL3HkR0r8

Writing prompt: https://www.reddit.com/WritingPrompts/comments/yhfw9wp_you_are_a_barista_in_a_24_hour_coffee_shop/
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My dictated story:
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I can't say I hate my job. Seeing whole galaxies burst out in unquenchable flames of agony, regret, and guilt does bring a sense of satisfaction, considering the hassle. It always feels good to be on the winning side, and if you're on the Dark Lord's side, it's easy to convince yourself that victory is inevitable. I've seen it again and again in all corners of all the observable space that surrounds me.
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Idealistic leaders, tired of the grinding poverty and chaos of the past, rise. Their mouths are filled with honey for sweet promises of bright futures. Predictably, they attract a mass of equally wishful thinkers. The Dark Lord has seen this script play out again and again. Nothing is really new. No matter how the suns struggle with each other in your solar system, just like gravity, ambition, confusion, and ultimately selfishness, win the day for the Dark Lord.
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It's as if he doesn't even have to do anything. Our inner demons, regardless of the shape, form, and color they take, always get the better of us. The Dark Lord doesn't have to go through the bother of forming another demon. Pretty soon, all these hopeful struggles against the lesser angels of our nature fail. I've seen it first-hand.
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The crumpled, smoldering ruins of previously great palaces full of hope; the burned-out charred remains of high and tall places of worship. I've also tragically witnessed the complete demolition of massive concrete depositories of wisdom vaporized seemingly as an afterthought. Being a demon in the Dark Lord's ever-present and victorious army can sometimes be overwhelming.
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How can it not be? Seeing a face of a confused angel suddenly contorted in an agony of doubt and betrayal, which will lead to somebody else's pain. That's my job. I sew confusion. You don't have to have a tall, muscular body or a sultry figure for what I do. In fact, I am convinced I don't even have to appear because I already exist in every heart.
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From cephalopod with their plasticine formed and ethereal floating presence to the depths of oceanic waves, I find myself in the eyes of sentient squids and all other creatures. The universal need for self-preservation keeps life thriving, pulsating, and struggling against odds in all four corners of our known universe.
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It is precisely the whisper of a suggestion to tweak this innate, primordial unstoppable drive. Just one degree is enough. That's what I do. No matter how lofty the ambition, how consuming the zeal to serve others, and how they strive for the greater good, I only need to remind them of what exists inside them. And just as the Dark Lord continuously reminds us, his demon legion, it all leads to the same place. It all leads to hell.
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This is where things get interesting. Hell can take many different forms. It's very tempting to define it solely as the depths of our greatest fears, disappointments, and crushing sense of abandonment. It's easy to imagine piles of bodies barely living, screaming out in vain, their voices rising like soon-to-be extinguished fumes escaping from a deep, bottomless pit on the ground.
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But that's just one way of imagining hell. My favorite involves a huge tower of steel glass and polished stone. A monument, if you will, for our collective striving for the best, the highest, and the purest. As your eyes take in this huge spire, seemingly defiant against all living organisms' base instincts, you see its seeming purity standing out against the darkness that consumes us from within.
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This brightness standing in the dark proves its undoing because that's where pride comes in. That's when my whispers take effect. It's as if they claw at you from inside your heart, and you don't know what's happening. I'll take it further: You don't want to know. Surely, it's everybody else's fault. Everybody else is wrong, but not me.
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No matter what language or primitive biological clickings or tappings communicate such sentiments, I know I've won, and so has my Dark Lord. So as I show up here at this decrepit, 24-hour corner coffee shop in the middle of nowhere, empty except for the baristas with their perfectly-ironed aprons with matching blank stares, I show up for the master.
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He loves lattes. There's something about the contrast of the jet-black Turkish Sumatran blend, and the Cordovan milk produces this contrast of dark and light swirling in a paper cup. Cordovan milk, of course, comes from rare, genetically engineered bovines. Safely ensconced in one of the many corporate farms of the parent company of this coffee shop, I cannot help but chuckle. Appearances have always been deceiving.
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NOTE: I dictated this story off the top of my head. Please send your feedback so I can further improve my dictation writing skills.

So I recently sold almost all of my shoes and boots that were mis-sized. One of my favorite pairs were shell jumpers, so I kept an eye out for them on eBay. I came across a pair of Peal & Co boots in my size, in very beat up condition, that I was able to snag for $200, and got to work on them.
album
When I unboxed them, I found dust and polish caked into the leather. I could leave fingerprints handling them. So the first thing I did was brush them vigorously, then I wiped them down with a rag, then brushed some more.
The next step was to use saddle soap to try and remove as much of the caked on product as I could. This was laborious, turned my rag purple / brown, and took quite a while. I tried a mix of wiping with the rag and brushing, adding saddle soap and water a few times.
After like half hour of this the boots lost their shine and looked matte, so I decided to stop there. I removed maybe 80% of the polish that was put on over the years, and I felt this was a good time to move to the next step.
I had a smidge of Saphir renovateur, so I used it first. It would have been ideal to have much more but it worked anyways. I then brushed again, and tried Saphir general purpose balm and brushing. The boots looked better, but still kind of matte, so I then tired some neutral Venetian Shoe Balm. This is where the shine started coming back, but still looked a bit off.
At this point I gave the uppers a break and used a toothbrush with Lexol to try and condition the welt. There was brown polish that had been caked on here as well - the Lexol dripped off from the boots brown as I was brushing. The good news is, in doing so I was able to clean up all the scuffs by redistributing the polish that was already there instead of having to find edge dressing.
More brushing, and then the final touch was some Saphir neutral Cordovan cream polish, applied generously and then brushed till my arm fell off.
Overall, I wouldn’t ever use this much product on a pair of boots that is well kept, even after some abuse - but in this case it was definitely warranted. I’m very proud of the result and look forwards to wearing these for many years. I hope this helps someone and encourages people to try and give used items a new life!
Cheers

Looking for a soft roading tire for my wife's RAV4. We are driving from Texas to Colorado in February. Looking at Falken wild peaks but I also saw some cordovan wild trail tires, has anyone heard of them?

TLDR: Mmmmhmmmmm... but my achy-brakey lateral malleolus!
You all disgust me, I know what you want...
Specs:
Onderhoud LVL01
Leather: Maryam (control yourself u/CrizzleLovesYou) Toscanello Horsebutt
Natural Upper Thread
Brass Eyelets
Size 41E
Flatwelt Double Row
Thiner Midsole
Natural Welt and edge finish
White outsole Stitching
Captoe double/single stitch
"Thinner midsole"
Urban Explorer Sole
Unstructured toe
Total Payment: $511.00
Background:
I had originally seen the Franklin II 145 Oxford I think on Tichoblacoshoes Ansta when they premiered, I was immediately infatuated (I actually bought Cats Paws heels in preparation of a custom build), but couldn't bring myself to spend the necessary $$ and thus lost out on this opportunity. This brought me into the search among the burgeoning Indonesian community. After countless hours of scouring I stumbled upon Onderhoud Handmade. I had originally sent a message on Ansta on September 13, 2020 it appears, but it feels like much longer ago, I may have perhaps reached out on a different social media platform prior to this........ message after message went out to no avail. That is six messages to be precise; I had given up on Christmas Day, yes December 25, 2020 to the date... surprisingly Rizky randomly messaged me on January 11, 2021 with the simple message "Which one do you want sir?", like, no lottery, like wtf, this dude just got tired of my incessant messaging. After details were confirmed, Rizky sent a message "I hope you enjoy to wait", " You can chat me in next 2-3 months for some picture progress"; I appreciated his upfront considerations to the wait time.
We got to talking, honestly the language barrier was a bit rough (okay, this dude literally is bilingual, I am barely bilingual so much appreciation to Rizky. Should these Indonesian makers learn English to accommodate us? Fuck no, if anything you should learn Bahasa Indonesia if you want to get into detail about boots with these guys...). I sent over my foot measurements traced on a piece of paper with the pictures of the Franklin II 145 that I had been desiring. The communication was a little tough, I wish I had learned some Bahasa Indonesia prior to our exchange to be honest. I had stated my absolute disdain for brogueing on shoes. Rizky originally attached brogued toes onto my LVL01, but had thankfully sent me photos of the "work in progress" which were great. I had brought up the text in which I asked for plain-toed shoes, which he promptly fixed within 24 hours. In the end, the shoes were sent via DHL on 12 April 2021 after Rizky sent a few photos to confirm the make, much appreciated. While communication left just a little to be desired, no one can complain as he is extremely busy, especially now.
Impressions:
Sorry, I didn't take pictures of the box it was shipped in. It came with waxed round brown laces on the shoes, and some rounded raw hides which you can see, a shoe bag, and a relatively non-descript shoe box that was pretty banged up by the shipping company.
These things are heavy, like seriously heavy. So I hiked Mt. Suribachi in some military issued steel toed boots (I literally almost died), these are marginally lighter in weight. They look great, well built, the fatty striations are jaw dropping, chonky AF... just many "YES"s.
Fit and Size:
Brannock, I'm a 8E on my left, 8.5E on my right.
I sent Rizky my foot outline, after a little back and fourth I told him I am a 41.5E for some reason (probably inaccurate?). He readjusted, told me a 40E would be more accurate, I refuted, he took my refute at 41E which we settled on. I should have listened to him. The shoe/boots are a little loose bare foot, slightly loose with dress socks, perfect with mid-weight boot socks/hiking socks. Now here's the thing, the lateral aspect of my lateral malleolus is a little high (duh, it's a shoe boot dummy), I get some rubbing that is unwanted that leave some bullous lesions... I should have expected this.
For context, I have a normal arch, but I'm high volume.
Parkhurst size 8 Ridge Kudu Allen ("old build): tight around the balls (I'm an E).
Allen Edmonds Leeds 8E: perfect with dress socks but rubs on my lateral malleolus.
Trickers Robert 7.5 UK unlined: little loose around the toes, heel is snug with dress socks.
Oakstreek Plain Toe Derby size 8 CXL: Im high volume at the vamp, little heel slip no sock.
More...? DM me, I don't feel like listing more at this time. I don't have any Viberg's in case you are wondering how Onderhoud's lasts compare.
Leather:
Well Toscanello Horsebutt #slut4horsebutt has certainly been doted upon enough by this community. What I will say is, I own a *thick* cordovan card wallet from HFA goods from Maryam... this wallet inspired me to pursue more Maryam tbh. This shit smells so good, the stamp is cool, but most of all it's strictly thickly and is pliable, it just feels soooooo good. For context, I own a few Shinki wallets, I love them, but Maryam has a special place in my heart. I haven't conditioned them yet, they have only had about 14 wears until this point. What I will say though, this #slut4horsebutt horsebutt feels a bit thinner than my wallet. I have held a few double shoulders before, I would *guess* this is about a 4oz weight without the liner, but I am likely wrong.... it's the right amount of *thickness*. I will say though, I asked Rizky for a contrasting tongue, perhaps in a dark brown CXL, Rizky did not secede to my desires.... I do wish he would accommodate contrasting tongues.
Soul: n_n
The Dr. Sole Urban Explorer (much to the dismay of Stitchdown) has become one of my favorite soles. *Hey Ticho, I like wedge soles... not so sorry update your outlook*. I know it is strange as a dual rubber and leather sole, but I must say I love the silhouette and the comfort. Unlike Dainite, these sole are about a 6/10 in firmness compared to a 7.3/10 compared to the Dainite. The difference though comes from the apparent "#lackofnub" of the Dainite, while I have encountered a "2 foreign body particles per 10 wear" versus the "0 foreign body particles per 10 wears" of the Dainite. I have noticed some toe wear, and have ordered some WWII vintage cast iron toe protectors which I might install in the future.
Thoughts:
Well, Onderhoud's make me happy. Let me reiterate... $511, are you kidding me???? For a handlasted, handwelted shoe/boot???? Well, I feel VERY VERY lucky I got a random message from Rizky to talk bhoes. Let admit it, he is busy as fuck... was I getting frustrated? Yes. Was seeing Ticho's and the DeminDentist Houd's on display making me angry? Yes. But this dude is a one man show (now), making boots by hand, and the clicking and stitching as far as I can tell are impeccable. I feel very lucky to have these. All I can say is if you have an idea for a makeup, the wait time gives you time to make sure you aren't thinking of getting anything too gaudy or flamboyant (unless you like this sort of thing). Let me know if you have any questions that I didn't answer, I am sure I skipped over much of what I actually wanted to talk about. Best wishes for my boot(shoe) Brothers(Sisters).

Photos
Disclaimer:
I have no affiliation with Sneakerkit. I received a 20% discount for ordering 5 pairs after reaching out to Roderick at Sneakerkit.eu directly.
Background:
I'll keep this fairly short. I do some leatherworking on the side and enjoy sourcing my own leather for shoes (and more recently a jacket). I happened to have a few cool pieces of leather lying around as excesses from these, and came across something I thought was neat - https://www.sneakerkit.eu/
I ended up rounding up a few friends (with no experience working with leather or any crafts really) to order a group of kits, for which I supplied the leather. We made 3 pairs in white kangaroo, 1 pair in green Ilcea museum calf, 1 pair in Shinki 'Standard' Brown horsehide (leftover from a jacket), and 1 pair in Rocado Cognac Shell Cordovan (156 euros for a 2.58 sqft piece, which ended up being more than enough). I would say these only really need 2 sqft unless you have particularly large feet.
Price:
Each kit was 39 euros after discount, and I also ordered their 'MultiPlier' tool and eyelets. I used approx. 120 euros of shell.
Sizing:
I ordered a 42, which is my standard welted shoe size. I would recommend sizing up to your typical athletic sneaker size (ie 43 for me) as the sole seems to run a bit short. The toe box also collapses extremely easily due to the lack of last and toe puff, reducing volume further.
Experience:
Process was really quite easy, and can be seen in video form on their website https://www.sneakerkit.eu/c-3530180/instructions/
My leatherworking experience definitely gave me an advantage on the speed front, but the base process is easy enough for total beginners. I would estimate it took me about 4 hours (not including the work I did on the Shinki pair of lining it, hand stitching the lining to the upper, and painting the edges). While teaching newbies, it took closer to 8 hours, so I would recommend setting aside a whole day.
After making the Shinki horsehide pair, I altered the pattern to bring the facings closer together and add more volume in the toe box - I would consider this a more advanced process made possible by my existing experience. Some things I did such as edge finishing (paint for Shinki, burnishing for Rocado Shell) and skiving overlapping panels are also more advanced techniques.
Overall definitely an enjoyable experience, though running sessions for several people got a bit tiring I do recommend it as a fun way to learn to appreciate shoemaking as well as working with leather in general.

The petite woman poured coffee for the two blob-creatures, Yulthani, they were called, as they waxed poetic about humanity.
“—really, the most fascinating thing, is how fascinating they think they are!” The larger one exclaimed.
“Center of the universe, aren’t they?” The smaller one said, its tone coy.
“Or so they’d like to think,” he looked at her as she moved to the second mug, “but this is the real center of the universe, isn’t it, Joy?”
“Mmhmm,” the woman said, straightening. “But I’d like to think not all humans are fascinated with ourselves. It’s perspective, truly.”
“Oh?” The first one asked her.
“I think humans can be very strange at times, even as one—I mean, what’s going on with the internet in general?—but alien species are strange, too.” She blushed at her forwardness, “Not to say being strange is a bad thing; but, have you seen Ginthi Twitter? Their jokes don’t make any sense.”
“Jokes tend to be culturally relevant—you wouldn’t understand what it’s like to be an undulating blob,” the first one said with a deep, guttural sound following his words, the Yulthani’s traditional indicator that they had found something funny.
“Hey, Joy!” She looked back to see the hostess waving her over. She bowed to the two blobs and left them, heading to the counter.
“What’s up, Leta?” She was a Ginthi, and the reason that Joy knew about their version of social media. They were bipedal, like humans, but they had wings (which she stowed while making rounds—they were always tipping mugs over) and they had two sets of knees, something Joy still didn’t understand nor feel comfortable looking at.
“Terrance said the fryer is acting up again and Lacy is refusing to fix it, something about sensibilities.”
Joy shook her head, “Dammit, I should never have let her learn manners. It leads to all sorts of things. I’ll go talk to her.” She set the coffee pot back on its heater and went to the back, where she found one of the line cooks in a heated argument with the resident AI.
“—don’t care what you think, Lacy! I need this fixed.”
“Fryers are not my specialty. I was not created to stick my wires into filth.”
“You’re created to do as we ask, Lacy,” Joy said, butting in and moving between the android and the line cook.
She looked the human up and down and then blushed, bowing, “Apologies, Ms. Joy. I just do not see this as a productive task.”
“It’s needed. I know that you recently learned a lot about you and your own ‘sensibilities’ but we do need to keep this place running, alright? If anything happens, I’m happy to replace whatever parts get messed up, but I doubt they will. You just need to plug into the side and find out the problem. Terrance here can be the one to fix it,” Joy said, patting the line cook’s shoulder. He shot her a look of dismay that she met with a smile.
“Yeah,” he said weakly, “I can fix it if you just tell me what’s wrong.”
“Fine,” the android said, putting her hand on the side of the fryer and going into processing mode.
“I’ll leave you two to it!” Joy said. She left the two of them and headed back to the front, where Leta was serving coffee to one of the regulars, a Hrigrian scientist named Grayen who was studying a nearby galaxy. He stopped by every few weeks to get coffee and restock on supplies. His eyes were tired and his clothes disheveled; he leaned against the counter as if it were the only thing keeping him afloat in the universe.
“Everything alright, doll?” Joy asked, pulling up a stool on the other side of the bar and setting her elbows on the counter.
“Yeah,” he sighed, “I’ve just been having some trouble.”
“What with? You’re the smartest guy I know, so I would hope that it isn’t anything dangerous, else we’d all be in trouble,” she said, flashing that brilliant smile that customers came from millions of parsecs away to see.
“No, nothing dangerous,” he said, taking a sip of his coffee and letting out a satisfied sound, “it’s with a colleague. They’re working in the same galaxy, on asteroid movement, and their data is conflicting with mine, in regards to trajectories.”
“Well it’s science, isn’t it? The numbers should match up, or something like that, right?”
“Theoretically. But it means I have to go back over all of my calculations while he does the same. It’s just tedious work.”
“Don’t’cha have an AI for that sort of work?”
“Usually, but my companion, Yoosa, has been hogging all of the processing space with her simulations.”
“Oh?” Joy asked, taking a sip of the coffee that Leta had set before her.
“Yeah, she’s convinced that there is a black hole somewhere in that galaxy, but none of the numbers are pointing to it, so she’s running a bunch of sims with the planets in varying places with everything else the same to see if anything happens.”
“You’ve lost me.”
“It’s alright, I’ve just about lost it with her. You can’t predict black holes that way, and I’ve told her a million times.”
“Isn’t she a historian?”
“Exactly!” He exclaimed, throwing his hands up in the air. “I don’t know why she insists on running the simulations in the first place.”
“Well maybe she’s just bored.”
“Bored! Bored! In this universe? I don’t understand that.”
Joy shrugged, “Ya know, people are fickle creatures. We can have everything at our fingertips and still be unsatisfied with it all.”
“I just wish she’d steal someone else’s special interest, or at least one that doesn’t hog our AI’s processing space,” he grumbled to her.
“No! You dimwit, that is not how you fix it!” Lacy cried from the kitchen.
“I followed your instructions exactly, who are you calling a dimwit, you wire-for-hire!” Terrance yelled back.
Joy rolled her eyes and put a finger up, moving from her stool to the back once again. “Hey! You two!” She snapped at them.
They both looked up, guilt on their faces. Terrance stammered, “I’m sorry, I got a little heated.”
“You think?” Joy said, trying to contain her frustration, “I have paying customers out there, and if you two can’t get along, I will have to move both of you two different stations, and I think you’re fairly happy where you are, aren’t ya?”
“Yes, ma’am,” Lacy said.
“Yes, ma’am,” Terrance echoed.
“Now get this fryer fixed before I just fabricate a new one and take it out of your paychecks.”
They nodded and turned back as she left, returning to the counter. Sitting, she sighed and took a sip of her coffee.
“So you were saying?”
“Right, well, I was pretty much done complaining, if I’m being honest.”
“Glad you could get it out. You want anything to eat?” She paused, looking back to the kitchen, “so long as it isn’t fried, I think we can handle it.”
“Just a pastry, if you would.”
Joy nodded and grabbed him a donut from their warming rack, plating it and setting it before him. Right as she finished, her watch beeped.
“Oh, great timing, I’m going to go make the news announcements for the day. I’ll be back in a moment.”
He smiled at her before biting into the donut, revealing the inside that wriggled with worms. He let out a delighted squeak and plopped one into his mouth. Joy always knew his favorite.
“Hello wonderful customers!” Joy’s voice rang out in all five sections of the restaurant, “This is your proprietor, Joy, and I am bringing you today’s news!”
“Make sure everyone knows you’re still the most beautiful woman in the world,” yelled one of the regulars from the crowded dining room.
“Oh, hush, we have real news to attend to—namely, that the asteroid we have nicknamed “Gurdy” here at the diner, has been slated for destruction, so as to not disrupt our Sunday evening meal. We are very sad to hear this, as we have grown fond of watching it grow closer in the night sky.”
“Don’t forget about George!” Another patron yelled.
“Oh yes, and the Asteroid Rider George, who will, fingers crossed, survive the blast, and be able to make it to our dinner honoring him on Sunday. In the event he cannot make it to tell us his tales, we will be playing his last will and testament, as he has promised to record one for us in the event of possible annihilation. In other news, the Intergalatic Council has declared Centron-4.2, a desert planet once inhabited by an advanced race, as True Wildlands, following a failed archaeological expedition that results in several deaths. The planet is now open for hunting and it is rumored that Trisi of Solarium B-12, the iridium baron, has put out a call for Partoos tongues—that’s the little critters that run the planet—so my beautiful Iriya, I’m looking at you.”
A gutteral yell arose from a group of aliens that looked more beast than sentient being. Their sharp fangs protruded past their lips and their fur hid muscular bodies that could move as swiftly and as dangerously as the jaguars on Earth. But right then they were just excited to have a conquest. Joy beamed back at them.
“The last news item of the day is that the diner will be changing our hours.”
There was a collective groan from the patrons, causing Joy to tut them.
“Now, now, you didn’t hear it yet, don’t get your garments in a bunch.” She put on her reading glasses and pulled out a sheet of paper, “If you’d like a copy of the new hours, please see me and I can get you one, but otherwise, just listen carefully, as there are some strange spots on it: On Sundays, provided the solar winds are not at unbearable levels, we will be opening when the second moon of Exectar-B, also known as “Toaster,” is at its height in the night sky for those at the coordinates 37.2431° N, 115.7930° W on Exectar. If you don’t have a Universal Time Calculator already, please see Jorian over there,” she pointed to a tall, gray being with bulging purple eyes.
He waved enthusiastically, “Lowest price in the galaxy! At least until we sell out!”
“When will that be?” Joy asked in her practiced tone.
“Who knows, time is an illusion anyway, except when it isn’t, and we can let you know when that is!” Jorian said, reciting his company’s motto with glee.
“Right, so Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, we’ll open when the crow flies and close whenever Lacy decides,” there was another groan, “I know, I know, but I lost the rights to those days in a poker match. But with androids you can never be sure. It’s only temporary, though, we should be back on our normal schedule in about four weeks Earth-time, give or take a couple of passings.”
She squinted to read the rest of the sheet, “Oh, yes, speaking of passings, we have decided to open Thursday through Saturday at an undetermined time, but, that undetermined time could possibly be determined by you, if you’re the first to show up. Whoever gets to the door first will be deciding our opening hours. Anyone who shows up after, you’re welcome to wait in our outdoor cafe, but I hear their coffee isn’t as good.”
“That’s cause you don’t make it!” Shouted another patron.
“You guys! What is with you today? Is it the lipstick? I feel like it’s the lipstick—oh I forgot to mention, on Thursday through,” she looked at the sheet again with renewed concentration, “Sunday, yes, we will be closing at 11:55pm, Pacific Standard Time, Earth Hours. The opening hour is, as I said, determined by that day. As for this particular, upcoming Sunday, we’ll keep our regular hours of ‘whenever Joy feels like it,’ but with the added twist that she’s definitely going to feel like throwing that party for George the Asteroid Rider. Please come dressed in your best attire, hungry, and ready to party!” She let out a shout of excitement and the restaurant erupted in cheers. It died down only after she’d left to return to the main counter.
“Well, wonderful as always,” came the cooing voice of a bird-alien. He sat at the bar where her previous regular had been. She looked around for Grayen and found him passed out in front of a cup of coffee, lying on one of their many bean bags, his legs curled up towards his chest. Joy looked the birdman up and down.
“Trianan!” She shouted with joy, running around the counter to embrace her small companion, taking him into her arms and spinning his entire 3 foot bulk around with ease.
“Oh, goodness, is that any way to greet a diplomat?” He said, his brilliant blue feathers ruffled.
She set him down and went back behind the counter, pulling up her stool again and perching her chin on her fists. “It is if you’ve missed him very, very much.” She giggled, her bright eyes alight in the diner’s glow.
“I’ve missed you too,” he said.
Passing him a coffee, she said, “What brings you to my little corner of the universe? Business? Pleasure? Just to see an old friend?”
He chuckled, clicking his beak together, “All of those things and more.” He licked at the coffee with his black tongue, “I’m here to see you, of course, and to meet with someone about a material from a comet that just passed through Youlson territory.
“Oooh, the dangerous lands.”
“Yes, yes, but the comet has some peculiar metal on it, a type I don’t think we’ve seen in a very, very long time.”
“Burianium?”
“Better.”
“Hirutite?”
“Even better!” He was nearly bursting with excitement.
“Well tell me, you silly bird!”
“Nourinium!”
“Oh, stop it, they say that can only…” her voice trailed off, then her eyes grew wide, “be found on giant comets!”
“Exactly! You’re spot on. We believe there is Nourinium at the core of this particular comet, but it’s soared past Council borders, so I’m meeting with—”
An uncharacteristic hush fell over the diner as the door opened and in walked a human, dressed in leather, his gun holster swinging as he sauntered. His dark brown eyes searched the diner as his gloved hands rubbed his scraggly beard. He looked to the two of them at the counter and scowled. With a huff, he approached them as the din of conversation returned.
“So this is who they’re claiming as diplomats these days? Tiny bird men? And their companions…” He paused, looking at Joy, then laughed, “Oh, come on now, I can’t even say nothin’ bad about you in jest. How’re you two?”
They smiled warmly at him, but Joy spoke first, “It’s good to see you, Jonas.”
“Glad you could make it on such short notice!” Trianan said, hopping onto the counter to give the man a hug.
“Of course, anything for a friend. I heard you were looking for someone to head into the Outlands?”
“Yes, yes, but let’s not bore sweet Joy with the details, how about you grab us a table and I’ll get us breakfast?”
The man nodded and tipped his hat, winking, to Joy before he left to find an empty table, a rarity in the diner. He found one next to a group of the child-sized beings called Watchers, who sat with their coffees steaming, their eyes wide, their minds ablaze with visions of the cosmos.
Trianan gave Joy a peck goodbye once he’d ordered, leaving her alone with her thoughts. She cleaned the counter absentmindedly as she watched the patrons, all so varied and full of life. She let out a contented sigh. There was a clang from the kitchen and she looked back to see Terrance and Lacy holding one another in an embrace, their lips meeting with a fiery passion.
She let out a chuckle, “I knew all that bickering was just sexual tension.”

My brand new calfs compared to my 5 month old shells.
See my original shell review here. 6 month update due in a few weeks
What’s up guys. I appreciate the insight and answers to my questions as I make improvements on this part of my wardrobe.
Polo Ralph Lauren Booth Calfskin Loafer Black, 10D Retail: $495USD Purchased: $346.5USD (-30%)
Some months ago I was able to grab some Ralph Lauren Purple Label shell cordovan tassel loafers at a solid discount. I considered the purchase a smart investment at the time yet the shoes have still outperformed my expectations. Durability, low maintenance, versatile dark brown color. The double oaked workhorse from my favorite brand eliminated any need for a rotation, I’ve worn them exclusively to work since they arrived in may.
Two weeks ago I received a private invitation from RL for 30% off for friends and family. I figured this was the best time to kick the tires on the baseline Polo brand footwear.
I don’t have a sophisticated pallet but I’d like some first hand experience in the calf vs shell debate.
Ralph’s copywriters aren’t exactly J. Peterman but I feel Polo is a better product than given credit for and while surely a step down from Purple Label, not that drastic in terms of performance.
For a few years now The Booth Calfksin loafers have been billed at a marquee Polo shoe: “Hand-made in Spain from supple full grain calfskin with Goodyear welt construction, they only get better with age.”
Initial Reaction First thing to stand out was the overall size of the shoe. Even without my shells nearby they seemed almost a full size smaller than my Marlows, I thought they’d have to go back. I lifted a shoe out of the box and my muscle memory weighed them at about half the weight of the cordovan variant. They’re about as light as some vans sneakers.
Fit Unfortunate, I thought, as I though they wouldn’t fit. I was pretty shocked and a little excited that the shoes fit exactly perfect. No shoe horn needed, no tightness, no heel gap, I’ve done it again only this time better.
I bought the Allen Edmonds Grayson, RLPL Marlow and these all online size 10D. They all fit comfortably well enough, these fit perfect. Regardless of material, brand, quality, these feel the best on each foot of any shoe I’ve ever worn in my entire life.
The Marlows are a sliver on the long side being an English shoe with an extra fraction of width but they still fit with or without socks. The San Francisco store doesn’t carry shoes so I didn’t have an option to try sizing down or changing width. The suede lining cups my heel exceptionally when I walk so returning them was never an option.
Regardless, these fit better and they look like it. I’m sure I’d experience this euphoria more often if I bought a few 9.5D and 9E along the way but this is it.
Pros At this point the shoes fit too well and look too sharp to be returned.
Color: I’ve always preferred medium to dark shades of brown for versatility of color coordination and casual rotation. I have criminally neglected how sharp black dress shoes look. A majority of my suits a navy and dark blue and the pairing is something special I’ve been missing out on.
Shape: The best thing about the Booth compared to the Marlow is that the shape is different. Despite identical features such as a double oak sole and heel foxing, these are completely different shoes. The Booth is shorter in length with a flatter more tapered toe. The moc stitching takes up more of the vamp ending closer to the toe as well. You could say the Booth is closer to an AE Grayson with the Marlow actually leaning slightly more traditional yet not quite Alden. The Booth is the sporty American 2014 Mustang while the Marlow is a luxurious full size Phanthom.
I’ve quickly decided Polo’s long running tassel loafer design beats out the Purple Label variant. It’s just more solid in structure, more minimal, less embellished. One should note as of October, 2020 Purple Label now features a new Tassel Loafer model called the Luther. Made in Italy the lush suede is offered sans heel foxing while the black calf has the Alden x BB angled arch stitch.
Cons, Concerns, and Questions
I don’t have enough experience with leather to know what to look for in terms of tangible quality so some of the latter frames of the album show areas of concern.
Creasing: I wore them briefly and they’ve already creased across the vamp. I guess that’s just something I’ll obviously have to get used to in opposition to Shell and the black hides this but still.
Color rubbing off: That’s normal right? With my brown shoes I think I remember that happening but with the black it seems like a lot.
Smell: They didn’t smell bad, they smell like leather, I think?
Verdict Nothing stands out to my novice eye that says cheap or poor construction. Note that my inquiry on the origin of shoe maker was unanswered. Ralph Lauren custom yet service claimed to not know who the Spanish shoe maker is. The $495 price point is somewhat concerning because I assume RL drops a heavy brand mark up. I.g, the Marlow is a shell cordovan loafer made by C&J with. $380 markup from the C&J Cavendish at $970.
I’m not sure if this plays into every private label product for every RL brand but I’m just hoping the upper of the shoe holds up. As far as fit and shape go I’m again pleasantly surprised. I may get the brown pair and the suede for summer if these perform well enough.

Album First: https://imgur.com/a/THl4g9x
Model: White's MP by Baker's Boots
Leather: Horween Brown Shell
Construction: Stichdown, One row, single cilastic toe, brass eyes and hooks, Standard natural edging, Cut Tops
Sole: Commando leather half soles,
Laces: pictured flat waxed but they included leather as well
Size: 9.5E Barrie last
Fit and sizing: I heard back from Brandon at Baker's about 2 weeks after sending my tracings (mid covid 19 pandemic so I suspect it might have delayed standard USPS). He suggested 9.5E which is half a size down from my Alden Barrie last. I was very apprehensive about it but given Baker's reputation I went with it. They were dead on, the instep is snug but not tight and is loosening up nicely with wear. Overall really happy with the sizing.
Price: retail was $1200, but they had $100 off and with the 15% off for the website relaunch it came out to 952, plus 17 for Cordovan false tongues.
Ordering: I ordered April 28th, after speaking with Brandon about sizing the order was placed on May 13th. I got the boots on June 26th. Minus the cordovan false tongues which are still en route
Impression: the leather and construction of the boots are fantastic. Lots of arch support, which I don't feel in most boots (I have a decently high arch). The welt stitches are uneven but I spoke with Baker's and since these are handwelted some variation is to be expected. They should not affect the longevity and when I have them eventually rebuilt, a machine stitch will be more consistent. The guesseted CXL tongues are great and very comfortable and I'm hoping to add more life to them with the false tongues. The hardware is bright and pops, very happy with the brass. Finally the leather half soles are great and very clearly a step up from Alden.
Final Thoughts: Really happy with the boots I've got about 5 hours of wear into them and they definitely seem like they will be a go to boot from now on. I was very happy with the communication and ordering experience from Baker's. Other than the uneven welting (which I expected) the boots are pretty much perfect. I was very surprised at how comfortable they were out of the box and are definitely a grail boot for me.
I apologize for the pics, unfortunately my wife is a bit tired of my boot collecting habits and so I did my best to try to capture them on my own.

Long post incoming so here's a quick before and after pic. http://imgur.com/a/mWe11Y9
A couple weeks back I bought some cognac Comipel shell Grant Stone PTBs second hand. I was excited as these were my first pair of shell cordovan shoes. Shell always appealed to me because of the rolling in favor of creasing and the polish potential but goddamn they’re expensive. $400-450 is the most I feel comfortable spending on shoes given the economy and being a young father of 2. Hopefully that changes down the road. Also, my wife might fucking murder me if she saw I spent $700 on a pair of Vibergs when she’s perfectly fine wearing low top Chuck Taylors she found on sale $25. I’m definitely the spender in the family.
Anyways, onto the shoes. I bought these slightly used from a SF member that I had previous done business with. They were worn maybe 25 times and arrived in pretty good shape. There was a couple discolored splotches about the size of a quarter but nothing that concerned me. Nothing some Saphir Cordovan cream and some brushing couldn’t even out. http://imgur.com/a/IW9F4Z8
Giddy as a school girl I changed into them shortly after they arrived. Wore them the rest of the work day with no issues. Grant Stone’s Leo last is my favorite shoe last. It just fits my foot perfectly. After breaking in 5 pairs of their shoes I never once developed a blister or any real discomfort. About 20 minutes before I leave it starts to rain. HARD. I mean pouring. I literally checked the day’s forecast 5 hours earlier and there was a 20% chance of light showers. Awesome. I was less worried because all I heard was how tough and resilient shell was compared to other leathers. I knew water spots were possible but could be easily brushed off the majority of the time. Anyways, it’s 5 o’clock, time to go home. During the 150 yard walk to my truck I got soaked. Puddles were damn near unavoidable but I tried my best. Once I got in the truck I wiped the shoes down with a Wendy’s napkin before taking off. They were still pretty wet when I got home so in go the shoe trees and onto the storage rack in my closet.
When I woke up the next morning I was greeted with a nice surprise. Water Stains!! Not spots but stains. There was 5 different lines just above the welt between the 2 shoes. Some an inch or two long, some 4-5 inches. Awesome. http://imgur.com/a/69KIIpm
Before applying any kind of polish or creams I tried vigorous brushing. After years of being on this sub all I’ve heard about shell is hour less is more and you just brush until you arm falls off so that’s what I did. Probably 15 minutes per shoe. Nothing. Maybe a 5% improvement? Anxiety starts to set in… Shit! Damnit! Poop! Did I really fuck up my new shell shoes the very first day I wore them? I grabbed the Saphir Cordovan cream and slathered the shoes in the light coat. Let sit 15 minutes and more brushing. Good Lord my arms are tired. How the hell do they look even worse?? Now I start to really worry. http://imgur.com/a/LYHeCux
At this point in time I start reaching out for help. I make a post in the GYW questions thread and received a mix of responses. It was either “just brush them” or “try rewetting the whole shoe” or “you’re screwed”. I also reached out to any shell experts I could think of. Instagram messaged Nick Horween (no response), emailed Bedos Leatherworks (no response) and emailed Comipel shell (no response). Terrific.
So I guess I’m rewetting the whole shoe. I get a clean rag wet and wipe down the whole shoe. Put the trees back in let them redry overnight. When I wake up the next morning they don’t look any better. Maybe even a tad worse. DAMNIT!! My next idea was to just sell them for a loss. Be upfront and honest and see if I could recoup some of my money. Take pics of the damage and be transparent. After a week on GYW and SF I had no bites.
That’s when I had a crazy idea. I think I want to dry and dye them… What’s the worse that could happen? The shell itself is still in great condition. No scratches, nicks or anything. It’s just the finish that’s messed up. All I’ve ever heard is how impossible it is to dye shell. How the material is so tight and nonporuous and can’t absorb anything. I googled for about 2 hours trying to find anyone who has even tried it and found a whole TWO!! One dude who redyed a 50 yr old pair of Florsheims back to color 8 and a guy on GYW who dyed from dark brown to black. That’s it
Alright I’m going to do this. Let’s get the supplies. I went with Angelus Leather Dye as I’ve had good luck with their paints in the past. I decided to try and go for an Alden color 8 as I thought going darker would be easiest. I bought their “cordovan” color and mixed it 50/50 with their “medium brown”. Don’t know why I did it this way but I did.
Now came the scary part. I needed to strip all the finish off. The first thing I did was a saddle soap/Lexol scrubbing. This removed some but I could tell it wasn’t enough. Time to bring out the big boys. I made a concoction of rubbing alcohol and vinegar and used a non-scratch kitchen scrubber and went to town. This took some time as I really tried to remove as much as possible. Medium pressure and focused on the stained areas in particular. This is when I started pooping my pants. There was no coming back after this. http://imgur.com/a/sUlQZqK
After letting dry overnight they looked ROUGH. It was time to glove up and start the dye process. I wiped them down with a clean microfiber cloth and began. I just used the little dauber thing they included and it did a fine job. As soon as it touched the shoe for the first time my immediate reaction was, “holy shit that’s dark”. After the first coat they looked almost like a super dark charcoal color. Dull and no signs of color 8. But again, no turning back. I did 3 coats and brushed after each to remove any excess. I let dry in front of a space heater 30 minutes between the coats as well to expedite the process. There weren’t any real directions from Angelus besides “wait 24 hours to wear”. http://imgur.com/a/CXXxmaR
I let them sit about 4-5 hours before applying anything else. Next up with Bick 4. I know the alcohol and dye is hard on the leather so it needed to rehydrate. 2 heavy coats of Bick with a lot of brushing in between. Some purple was beginning to peek through but still super dark. Back in front of the space heater for another 2 hours. More brushing. Then I do a coat of neutral VSC hoping to condition some more and get some shine. More brushing, back in front of the heater. http://imgur.com/a/CXXxmaR
Lastly, I use the burgundy Saphir Cordovan cream. This really brought the shine out. I really like this stuff because how easily it applies. I like to apply with a latex glove so I don’t waste near as much as I would if I used a brush or towel. More brushing then buffing with a terry cloth.
Next I tackled the welt. I wish I was a little more careful with the tape job because some of the dye seeped under and got to the welt. I grabbed an old toothbrush and rubbing alcohol and went to town. This got about 75% of it. Next I used my multi tool with the sander head. 240 grit paper and very carefully went around the whole shoe trying to get as close to natural color as I could. Then I went 2000 grit and applied a thin coat of Renovateur. I read somewhere that helped the edge dressing apply evenly so why not. I used AE Heel dressing in brown with the bottle applicator for the sides and a paint brush for the stitching. Went on easily but feels more like a paint than a stain. Will most likely redo shortly once I feel comfortable taping off the shell.
Finished Product. http://imgur.com/a/fIM7hpW
Overall I’m very happy with how they turned out. How durable is the finish? Who knows. Will it fade over time? Again, don’t know. I plan to let them sit and “cure” a week or so before wearing them. Just in case. I do plan on applying a true paste polish eventually to the toes at least to really get a good shine. I’ve been asking Grant Stone for a color 8 shell run for a year and now I have a 1 off custom. That said, maybe give me a month to test them out fully and see how they hold up before you try this on your $1300 pair of Viberg shells.
TLDR: I bought some cognac colored shell shoes secondhand. 1st day wearing them they developed water stains along the welt after they got rained on. I tried a ton of “fixes” that didn’t work so I decided, fuck it, let’s dye them. It actually turned out better than I thought they would.
Edit: I redid the welt yesterday. Sanded it down with 120, 240 and 1000. Then light coat of reno and let dry. Last I wiped on a light coat of the medium brown dye. Looks like a factory finish imo.
http://imgur.com/a/GabfkpO

"It needs to be earned."
--Monty Oum, from Afterbuzz TV, August 1, 2014, regarding romantic relationships and queer representation.
​
I completely agree, a romantic relationship worth a damn in fiction should be as earned as possible. It should be sincere and heartfelt, and if possible, it should entwine the two characters' personal arcs and themes together into something grand and beautiful. This approach isn't fast by any stretch of the imagination. In a TV/web series like RWBY, this will require multiple years worth of plotting to do proper justice to the idea. By and large, I really think Blake and Yang's relationship has checked off these boxes.
But there's a point where you have to either pull the trigger, or holster the gun. You can't keep your audience waiting in anticipation at gunpoint forever.
Even Nora and Ren have been more immediately, bluntly confirmed as an actual romantic couple at this point. Three times over, in fact! V4 gave us Nora and Ren overcoming a shared trauma experience, culminating with holding hands while sharing a soft gaze, while a lei motif of "Boop" plays. V6 gives Ren and Nora affectionately cuddling in the opening animations, and Nora screaming "Get back here with MY MAN!" at Cordovan in the volume's final battle arc. And, yes, V7 gave us that kiss, and what a kiss it was.
In seven years, though, what we've gotten for Blake and Yang has been considerably less obvious. Their relationship, and the narrative intentions behind it, have been so far away from blunt in fact, that there's a seemingly gigantic section of the audience that refuses to accept they are or could be a couple. I can't even list off the number of people I've encountered who are convinced that the Bumbleby romance didn't even begin until V6.
Don't misunderstand me, I actually mostly enjoy the subtlety, symbolism and allusion used for Blake and Yang. I, personally, find it sincere, refreshing to a point, and even clever. I've genuinely enjoyed watching Blake and Yang's relationship evolve over time. From Yang's "Does anyone else suddenly really like cats?" expression the first time she looked at Blake, to Blake making eyes at Yang while dancing with Sun, all the way to swearing undying loyalty to each other while embracing in front of a waterfall and being framed as a literal Yin/Yang. It's beautiful, it's poetic, and I love it all dearly.
And yet, for all the allusion, paralleling, subtlety and authorial intent, even I can stop and admit that...it's not completely, without a shadow of a doubt, 100% a confirmed thing, is it? Even if only by a little, regardless of what CRWBY clearly intend to convey about Blake and Yang, there's still an amount of room to be able to say that maybe they're not a couple.
I can't help but be reminded of other great action/adventure cartoons that shared similar problems, and all of them revolving around same-sex couples. Legend of Korra and Adventure Time both waited until their final episodes to confirm their couples, with Korra only even offering a soft-confirmation and a read between the lines wink. Steven Universe tries to cheat, by offering ostensibly lesbian couples yet insisting that the Crystal Gem characters are aliens, and don't have gender in the same fashion. Even the supposedly queer-friendly Netflix She-Ra remake, as much as I love it, only allows side characters who are barely present to be in same-sex romances, while the rest of the main and reoccurring support cast are restricted to subtext, using coded language to make implications and never actually following through.
I suppose I can't help but worry a bit, that RWBY may end up sharing a similar fate as the rest of those shows. It would be a real shame. There are plans, I know, for what's to come in the show. I know Miles and Kerry want things to feel proper, and earned, and I really do appreciate that. But it's been seven years.
Are ya'll gonna pull the trigger, or holster your pistol? Because I have to admit, my arms are a little tired from being held up so long.

Willie made another one!

FIT PICS

Day 1: BUT PICS FIRST

Day 2: Against Navy + More NC Backyard

Day 3: You’ve likely seen these

WHAT IT IS:

EXP 205: Workcloth 320 Shank(Outlier Link)

Background:

An update on the Shank that first made its debut in 2014.
TBH I’ve been waiting a long time for this to come out. I remember first falling in love with the shank jacket around 2014 when my cousin first purchased one. It was everything I loved about the type three trucker jacket but with light water repellency and extra comfort due to the two way stretch and the under arm stretch panels. Since then, I’ve been obsessed with them, but could never really get my hands on one. There have been countless iterations, but all of them have been out of reach (either due to monetary constraints or lack of F5 skills).
Well today was the day! The outlier crew graciously allowed me to review one of these beautiful jackets.

Materials:

Per the name of the jacket, this new iteration is made from Workcloth 320, a more heavy duty version of the workcloth. I’ve never handled the 320 before, so I was surprised to say the least. Honestly, I was expecting something heavier, something similar to the strongtwill. The 320 lies somewhere between the strongtwill and the workcloth. It still feels light, but you can tell it can take a beating, it has a rough to the touch exterior. The 2 way stretch is also nice. Like other denim jackets, don’t expect much warmth from this; this is an early fall/spring jacket. A jacket to protect you (or your UFT)from the elements (or your backpack), an armor of sorts, but not one to keep you warm.
EDIT: I took out a pair of SDs to compare the materials. The 320 is of course 320gsm vs 275gsm for the traditional work cloth. I'm actually surprised the traditional is 275gsm, it feels far lighter in comparison. The 320 feels significantly heavier despite the subtle weight difference. I also compared the materials of the strongdarts to the 320. The strongtwill's outer face is significantly more *slick** in comparison to the coarse nature of the 320 workcloth. Where the workcloth shines is the inner face, which is significantly softer IMO to the strongtwill. I have to reiterate, the 320 workcloth feels like it can take a beating.*
I own quite a few type 3 trucker jackets, and the most brutal part of them is the break in period. Oh no, not with this jacket, it was comfortable from the get go. Edit: The 2-way stretch is incredible, it really gives you a significant amount of comfort and range. To boot, the jacket has a side panel made of a stretch material (similar to the original version). The panel extends the length of the jacket and all the way down the sleeve. The panel is dyed to match the color of the workcloth. It’s very subtle and I doubt most people would even notice it from afar. EDIT: Outlier doesn't state what the material is, but in comparison to the workcloth it is very thin and very very stretchy.* I was surprised how easy it was to move around in this thing. It's truly the most comfortable type 3 trucker jacket I've owned. But the real question is, is the stretch panel needed for a material with two way stretch? I’m not sure, but it’s a nice touch. I could see this being really useful for a jacket with a heavier face fabric (ie duckcloth).

Construction/styling:

The rest of the jacket is built impeccably. The cut of the collar is perfect. I have quite a few type 3s from 3sixteen (which I love), but the collars are so large and obnoxious, likely a reference to older times, but they can look very "disco". The outlier collar is clean, simple and smart. The body and sleeves are cut slim but not skinny, the length is perfect (not too short like traditional/repro type 3 ie ironheart and not too long like 3sixteen or the modified ironhearts). It also has the traditional elements you’d expect from a type 3; two chest pockets, waist fasteners/adjusters on the hips, and like modern/modified type 3s, it also has two waist/side pockets. An added bonus is the addition of two side drop pockets (that are actually split into two each due to how the pocket is assembled) and a rear drop pocket. So the jacket has 7 pockets total (9 if you count the two side drop pockets as two each/individual).
I actually got to talk to Willie about the jacket today on IG (I slid into his DMs). He made some very subtle changes to this new iteration. Little nips and tucks here and there, an increase in the sizing about 1/2 a size, and some other minor, but well thought out, changes. All in all, this is a perfected version of an already pretty perfect type 3.

Color:

Currently the jacket comes in one color, CHARCOAL. Some of you might be relieved that it’s not black. I for one was a little saddened when I got the link.
I love black, most days I’m wearing black, if not black it’s dark navy. When I received the jacket I was pleasantly surprised by the color. To my eyes, it’s more of that beautiful blue tint gray color that outlier has perfected. The shade really changes depending on the lighting. In some light it’s a dark grey, in others it’s more of a blue. Either way it’s a surprisingly nice color. EDIT: I wore the jacket with predominately black yesterday, today I wore it with khaki and blue. Honest to god, this this is chameleon. I was surprised by how much it looked blue against a navy sweatshirt and how black it looks against black. It's an incredibly versatile color. Don't get me wrong, if this came out in a *DEEP** black, I'd still pick one up.*

Sizing:

I was really unsure of what size to purchase in this jacket. Recently I’ve been purchasing outlier outerwear in a size XS (this is the same size I purchase for my outlier dress shirts). I wear a small in the tees.
I went back and forth between a small and an XS, eventually settling on a small. I’m glad I went with the small, it’s the perfect length (the XS would have been about 24 inches in length which would have been too traditional/cropped). The added room in the chest also allows me to layer. In my pics I’m wearing a crew neck sweatshirt underneath and it’s very comfortable.

Overall:

This jacket is everything I dreamed of and more. I’ve been wearing my FCTJ constantly, but I think now that this is out, I’m going to have a hard time deciding which I’ll choose. This jacket is that awesome. I like things that are simple and clean; this exemplifies and surpasses that. This is one jacket/type 3 I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of.

TL;DR:

An updated version of a classic. Seriously, don’t sleep on this one

FIT 1 :

Shank: OUTLIER. Sweatshirt: UNIFORM/LA Black Crewneck Sweatshirt. Denim: JOHN ELLIOTT Cast 2 Raw Stretch Obsidian (OG). Boots: VIBERG Black Shell Cordovan

FIT 2:

Shank: OUTLIER. Sweatshirt: UNIFORM/LA Navy Crewneck Sweatshirt. Denim: JOHN ELLIOTT Cast 2 Raw Stretch Canyon (OG). Boots: VIBERG 2030 Aged Bark

FIT 3:

Hat: OUTLIER merino watch cap. Jacket: OUTLIER workcloth 320 shank. Hoodie: JOHN ELLIOTT kake mock sweatshirt. Tee: UNIFORM/LA black vintage tee. Pants: OUTLIER strongdarts. Shoes: JOHN ELLIOTT black leather high.
Note: I’ll try to update this with thoughts throughout the weekend.
PS: Thank you again to the outlier crew for allowing me to review this, and Willie (and whoever else had there hands in this) thanks for making one of, if not the best type 3 to date.
If you want to read more about the different types of denim jackets

For the heathens!
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As a further refinement to my collection, I have been adding some loafers to give me some options at work. I have discovered that I my narrow heel and high arch prove to be challenging in the loafer area. It causes lots of heel slippage in an otherwise well fitting shoe. This has caused me to move to a tighter fit in some pairs or just abandoning others altogether. I did get Zeb to make me a pair of slippers and those have been fantastic but OTR shoes have proven more challenging. I love the aesthetic and construction of Oakstreet bookmakers loafers but they vary wildly from model to model in fit (and that isn't relegated to their loafers). I have some of the rancourt made Cole haans that everyone had fit issues with. I have finally found the Quoddy true penny loafer which fits about perfect but may be a bit too sleek for my tastes, but a great summer loafer. The color number 8 penny is a classic and has withstood trends for decades, so I wanted to get one that would last me a while and satisfy my desire for a penny that wasn't' too chunky nor too sleek and I thought this one hit that mark.
So I finally pulled the trigger on these BB Golden Fleece Shell Cordovan Pennies. I originally ordered my brannock size and that proved too big, so I sized down and that was the sweet spot (but again, my super high arches warrant this). These are goodyear welted and I am unsure of the tannery source for their shell but the shoemaker is rumored to be Silvano Sassetti in Italy.
What I can say is the build, fit, and finish all seem to be exemplary in my limited time in them. I am dubious of a few things in shoes, so only time will tell, but unknown makers with mixed material soles gave me pause. Maybe I'm being a little too set in my ways or conditioned by safety of the staid ways of American and English style, but the rubber insert in the sole has been a nice touch and these were well executed. The ortholite insole was another quirk that was questionable but, it IS comfortable and no too squishy, but again, time will tell.
What I can say is, I can't find a stitch out of place or a misaligned anything. I have become tired or accepting the QC of the American stalwarts (but when they're great, they're GREAT) and it is refreshing to get a pair of shoes that you can at least start out with a fairly exemplary looking shoe. The clicking is all on point as well, even dye absorption, no dry spots and is already rolling nicely. The welt seam is as flawless as your can get in a mass produced shoe. The welting all around had very even margins and consistent stitches per inch.
I waited until there was the 25% off BB corporate discount to get these but from what I can tell, they are worth it and I highly recommend them. There is a paucity of reviews on these shoes so I thought I would get the word out on these as I have been very pleased with them.

Before the wall of text and pics: Everyone together
-bonus all the way at the bottom-
*Disclaimer: I have not polished/shined them for several months now.
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It has almost been a year since I bought my 1st pair of Zebshoes, decided to post a short review of all the pairs I've gotten so far. Both for me and my wife. All are rubber soles since its a wet country we live in.
We work in offices, so the soles all look pretty clean. Also shoe trees help.
Ladies can scroll lower to the bottom. (sorry no high heels here)
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Grey Suede Zip Boots - The Album
Bojan always said he can't see creases so heres some creases, mostly at the boot shaft.
This was the first pair of test fit boots. I wanted as little welt showing as possible and as thin rubber sole as possible.
Initial wear was tight especially at the calves, wasn't able to zip all the way up. The zip was rough at first too but after the leather stretched out, it is now easy to zip up.
I do not use suede protectors on any of my suede shoes, this one had been soaked in the rain and it still looks and feels fine after drying.
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Burnished Burgundy Oxfords - The Album
This was the second pair, to test non-boots. Almost wanted something burnished / patina shoes since he was always raving about it.
Turned out looking amazing. Had the little leather part of the soles painted blue for the fun of it.
However fit wise, had some slight heel slips so its not in the rotation that frequent.
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Green Shell Cordovan Chukkas - The Album
It was time to try some shell and Bojan managed to get some green shell cordovan. At the same time I also wanted some beater boots for rainy days (easy to put on and off and easy care). So I got these shell chukkas.
Don't hate me for not babying shell cordovan, because I don't. I shined these once with some shell cordovan cream and thats it. Only brushed, even if I walked in rain with them.
Vibram commando soles was tougher to break in at first but all worked out in the end.
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[Women] Brown Nappa/Suede Wingtip Boots - The Album
This pair was a test fit for my wife. Since she has sensitive feet & attitude (doesn't like pain at all, if there's a blister caused by shoes/sandals/heels, you won't see her wearing that pair ever again.)
Turned out pretty well. Leather and rubber sole recommended by Bojan were very soft though there are some tightness at the instep, she was able to wear it for a whole day.
But the next complain was, long laces and shes lazy. Thus the next pair...
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[Women] Navy Suede Zip Boots - The Album
This time Bojan had a new recommendation, tire-like rubber soles. Took it immediately, looked great.
Also tried cuban heel and it turned out pretty nice. However she was getting slight heel slips from this pair, we are still figuring out the source.
This pair looks the best in all outfits, though no pics of said outfits were taken. But I'm sure the ladies will know how to wear these. Its a pretty common design.
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[New] Burgundy Horse Rump Zip Boots - The Album
This came in just recently, so wasn't taken with the family picture. Saw the post of these leather and wanted to try one.
Apparently had almost the same design as ghastpower (not sure his name on reddit). Will be giving these a polish soon.
This time I got the tire rubber soles for myself. Pretty good grip on the ground.
The leather is sturdy, not as soft as most leathers, but also not as tough as shell cordovans.
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BONUS - Whats in the wooden box?
Sorry if the bonus isnt that new burgundy boots above. I have so many of these wooden boxes, I'm not sure what to do with them. So here is one of the boxes used as storage for shoe stuff.
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New Wooden Box & dust bags
This is the latest version of the wooden box (unlike the initial test box shown above) with magnetic closure. And the dust bags look great too, with the leather patch sewed on.