Hi, hello, it's me again, posting some more work my brain forced me to do before I'm allowed to get back to writing again 'cause none of it will be seen by anyone if I don't.
tl;dr, I tried to use the scenes we get to put together two possible floorplans for the Noceda residence, though, surprise surprise, there's no definitive answer.
Here's also an imgur album where all the sketches and combined screenshots scattered around this post are located. I'd suggest having all embeds open for this post's formatting's sake. If you instead want to read this post on tumblr, head here. Anyway.

Introduction

Alright, so we all know that houses in cartoons are innocuous suburban homes that inside are secretly eldritch shapeshifting nightmares hellbent on driving anyone trying to put together a definitive interior insane, answering only to the whims of the storyboarders. And typically, the longer a show runs and the more scenes we get inside a house, the more contradictions etc. build up. Thankfully, the Noceda residence, which I think I'll call Walnut Grove, or the Grove for short from here on out (since Noceda is losely translated to grove of walnut trees, and the Grove or Walnut Grove sounds like something people might name their house). Petering out sentence aside, thankfully we only see the inside of the Grove in a couple episodes: Camila's room in Enchanting Grom Fright's last scene, the living room in the ending scene of Keeping up A-fear-ances, several scenes of the kitchen and Luz's bedroom in Yesterday's Lie, the kitchen and entry hall at the end of King's Tide, Luz's room and the upstairs hallway in the epilogue, and of course every single room we know of in Thanks To Them.
Since the scenes establishing the Grove's interior are mostly isolated to single rooms or all within one episode, hopefully the paradoxes and contradictions remain somewhat low. And of course, before we fully dive into things, this is not meant as a critique towards the show. Setting up a scene, joke, or otherwise, trumps a fully logical, realistic layout, and putting together a full floorplan prior to boarding or animating makes it almost impossible to account for any later rooms or more useful arrangements that are needed in the future.
So, with the introduction aside, let's first take a look at the exterior of Walnut Grove.
Walnut Grove exterior
The house is a quaint suburban home with two floors, possibly an attic, and (a later revealed) basement, with a forward-facing gable roof that has one shed-style dormer window at the front. There's a chimney off on the right, slightly off-center, and there's two windows on this side, one for each floor. The front door is to the left, along with six windows, two thinner ones on either side of the door and four big ones, though the second thin window is occasionally missing, such as in the picture above. There's no garage, just a driveway. The back and left-facing sides of the Grove are never seen, so they're a blank slate, though it's very likely there's a backdoor. The general dimensions of the house seem to have a comparable width to length, close to a square.

First attempt

With that out of the way, now for piecing together the actual inside. Let's have the first attempt start right at the front door, which opens up into the entry hall, where the staircase resides.
Front door
In the second half of Thanks to Them, there's a perfect shot that shows the full entryway.
Full entry hallway
Here you can see the stairs on the left, a door on the left near the back of the stairs, a door all the way at the end with ventilation up top, and two openings on the right, one leading directly into the kitchen.
As a funny aside, in the extended intro in Thanks to Them there's a shot of the hall that looks like this, where the stairs have to be fit in a seriously thin slice on the left to not be visible.
Spaghettified staircase
Anyway, going counter-clockwise, the living room is easily established as being the first opening on the right of the hall (hard to see due to low lighting), the stairs are also visible from the living room. The majority of this room is occupied by drawers and small tables, plus a large sofa in the middle with a TV against the front wall. There's also a window off to the right.
Living room
The back right corner of the living room is never seen properly, nor is the front wall beyond a close-up shot of the TV, but the back left has this additional inward corner.
The other room visible in the prior establishing shot of the entry hall is the kitchen, being accessible through the second opening. These two opposing shots give a full view of the kitchen. There's a counter that runs along the back three walls, along with a kitchen island and a breakfast table on the other side. The microwave and stove top plus oven are on the left along with the fridge, and the sink's at the back.
Kitchen
The opening on the right of the second picture leads into the hallway, with the other exit being a regular door.
There's also a different angle where the opening is seen more clearly, with the room opposite the hall being the downstairs toilet. This also means the door on the left of the establishing shot of the entry hallway belongs to the downstairs toilet, leaving only the door at the back of the hall unaccounted for, though the presence of the window in the kitchen makes it very likely this is the backdoor, or something that leads into a small room that has the backdoor.
Kitchen view of toilet
And that should be all the known rooms on the ground floor done with. Here's a crude sketch for the layout (not necessarily to scale):
Sketch of downstairs
Before making anything more definitive, let's move on to the other two floors. First, the basement is probably the easiest and most well-defined. These two opposing shots map out the majority of it.
Basement
There's a small work station and a sofa seated up against the stairs down to the basement, a closet on the wall to the right, alongside a washedryer setup. In the opposing corner is a small bar. This was definitely the mancave. The one thing that's missing is a pool table. The only trouble the basement has is…where are the stairs to the basement located? The space right under the stairs in the entryway is already occupied by the downstairs toilet, and the front of the house is already mapped from left to right: left wall -> entry hall -> living room -> window on the right wall. The only bits with space undefined/left is in the back right, as the kitchen's right wall has no windows or anything to indicate it's actually an outside wall, or the back left, with the unassigned door which may or may not be the backdoor obscuring things. The unassigned door has ventilation above it, and while I'm not sure, I presume it's common to have those above interior doors rather than exterior ones, so perhaps there is indeed another room back there. Especially if it's the entry to the basement, which has no windows or access to the outside for ventilation. Plus, the way the kitchen extends further back than the hallway in its establishing shot suggests there is room back there.
Lastly, let's move on to the upper floor.
The main thing we see on this floor is Luz's room, which is almost fully mapped by these shots, leaving just one corner unseen.
Luz's room
It has a bunk bed, a window on either side on both walls, a built-in closet with sliding door on the opposing wall, a small bookcase, and a desk under the right-most window. This is also where we run into the first definitive irreconcilable contradiction. You can see the slanted roof of the house here, with Luz's ceiling going up diagonally from the wall with the bookcase to the door at the back. However, in Yesterday's Lie, Vee jumps out of the desk window on the right, and comes out the shed window at the front of the Grove.
Vee yeeting out the window
Furthermore, we also have a shot at the end of the extended intro in Thanks to Them, where Luz sits at her desk on the right and directly sees the school bus arrive at the front.
School bus arrives
So, the ceiling says the desk window should be on the side of the Grove, but two instances say the window is at the front. There's sadly no way to reconcile this, so any future layout will have to compromise and pick one or the other. One thing that's clear though is that Luz's room has a front-facing wall. Whether that means her room is at the front-right corner or the front-left corner is up to us to pick.
The ceiling's slant in Luz's room should start a lot lower near the floor anyway, as the roof at the front slants down all the way to the bottom of the upper floor, along with the shed window being obvious from the inside, while in Luz's room the diagonal ceiling is only near the top, and the windows are both on flat walls. But of course, fitting in a bunk bed with that kind of ceiling is much more difficult for animators with these shots, so let's just let that slide.
Moving on, we also get a few shots of the upstairs hallway.
Upstairs hallway
Now, I definitely think this hallway has been stretched out in the right picture, namely to add in all the photos on the wall, so let's go with animation trickery and assume the length is shorter than this, otherwise it'll probably be wider than the entire house, length- or width-wise. We also have at least two doors on one side of the hall, possibly three since the door in the left picture is white, with the other door further back in the right picture being brown. There's also room behind the camera on the left for a door, as well as the stairs leading up to the hallway. There's no serious slant visible in the ceiling like in Luz's room, so the hallway isn't directly up against an outside wall, so that's one point off.
When it comes to Camilla's room we basically see nothing except the bed and the door, so nothing more to say about that.
Camila's room
Before I go ahead and show my first attempt at a complete floorplan, I'll also mention that we're missing a proper bathroom, so that's something that has to be around somewhere. Since there's at least three doors in the upstairs hallway, and convention, the bathroom will be upstairs.
There's also this inward corner in the back-left of the living room, and the kitchen doesn't have an alcove back there, so another room has to be back there. Though from all possible angles, no door can be seen. So apparently the Grove just has a hole in its center?
Unidentified empty space
Lastly, there's the already mentioned possible location of the basement stairs behind the door at the back of the hall. I'll leave out a highly possible attic space, as it's never shown, and adding it to the floorplan is pretty easy. Just a singular room with a collapsible ceiling ladder somewhere in the upstairs hallway.
With all this kept in mind, the floorplan that arises from this looks like this, though proportions can be altered a little:
Floorplans attempt 1
Some clarifications, I turned the mysterious gap in the center of the house into a pantry, with kitchen-access, even if there's no actual access visible in the show. The second doorway in the kitchen also directly leads into the living room, in the corner we can't see. A fireplace is also added, as there should be a chimney/fireplace around that location. The space behind the door at the back of the hall is turned into a room with access to the basement, though I can also see it containing the breaker box and that kind of stuff on the right wall.
For the basement, nothing more needs to be said, except yes, I did add the pool table. And for the upstairs, by making things fit with the parameters set with the ground floor, the additional space in the front-left corner becomes a home office (for Manny, rest in peace), with Luz's room at the front-right and her desk window becoming the shed window, and Camila's room at the back-right. Using up some of the remaining space for built-in closets, the potential third/middle door in the hallway becomes the missing bathroom, which is an en-suite here. Lastly, the remaining space in the back left just becomes more storage space.
So yeah, a few clunky things, but it works overall.
Now to tear this apart and point out all the inconsistencies I left out up until now.

The inconsistencies #1

Obviously, Luz's room is a Schrodinger's room that's in either the front-left corner state or the front-right corner state. For the sake of illustrating both options, I collapsed the wave function into front-right for this attempt, but I'll get back to the other state in a bit.
This also means the hallway is oriented wrong, as none of the slanted roof can be seen at the back, which would be the case if the orientation was front to back. The upstairs hallway is depicted as being oriented from left to right, parallel to the rooftop, especially with the window at the end.
Speaking of windows, the sideview of the Grove's exterior shows there's no window near the front at the right-facing wall, even though the living room has a window at the right. No matter what, the living room is solidly depicted as being in the front-right corner of the house, making this missing living room window the second irreconcilable contradiction we've encountered so far.
Keeping up with windows, the exterior window in the back of the right-facing wall is nowhere to be seen in the actual floorplan, belonging to the kitchen, which has no window on that wall. Furthermore, the side of a neighbor's house is visible in the kitchen window, meaning that wall is side-facing. This means the kitchen is either in the back-left corner or the front-right corner, though the latter is already occupied by the living room, so if anything, the kitchen would be in the back-left.
And, as mentioned previously, there's absolutely no entry to this mysterious hole in the center of the floorplans in any of the interior shots.
Kitchen window inconsistency
Based on these floorplans, it should also be clear that the house stretches back more than it is wide, which doesn't match up well with the outside, where the layout is more square.
Oh, and I left out the biggest inconsistency so far.
You remember that second entry to the kitchen? The one with the door, not the one to the entry hall? The one I assigned to being a direct passage into the living room?
Yeah, there's a whole second hallway beyond there, one we never actually see from within in the show.
Surprise hallway!
So…big oversight on my part there.
With all these big inconsistencies pointed out though, barring the two irreconcilable ones, let's try again, and attempt to work out these kinks.

Second attempt

I'll spare you the same pictures of the rooms again, so let's get to the meat of this second attempt.
Rather than base things off the entryway, let's instead build things up on the ground floor around the kitchen, since that one had the biggest inconsistencies in attempt one.
Well, let's start with putting the kitchen at the left of the house, with the kitchen window facing left. We also still have the downstairs toilet across the hall from the opening, and we now also have this second hallway visible from the other door, which has a corner, if not a T-junction, right where the kitchen door is, and two doors, one for each wall of said corner.
A crude sketch of this arrangement looks like this:
Sketch of kitchen and hallway
We now have a weird mess of hallways and turns, but to further build on this, let's just connect the two bits of hallway we can see into one, which you'll see just below in the final floorplan.
Of course, the location of the entry hallway and the living room doesn't change whatsoever, so let's just go ahead and show my full second attempt:
Floorplans attempt 2
As you can see here, the new kitchen direction with adjacent hallway system, combined with the entryway and living room, fills up quite a bit of floorspace. That, and the downstairs toilet now neatly explains the back-left corner of the living room. Concerning the two additional doors visible in the second hallway, I've assigned one to the pantry, and the other to a small closet containing the breaker box.
The long stretch of hallway parallel to the right of the kitchen did create some empty space between the living room and the pantry, but I filled this up with a proper dining room. This also now happens to be the spot where the chimney/fireplace would be located, which seems very fitting.
The basement does not change in any significant way, besides needing to figure out where the basement stairs are, as the kitchen now occupies the space right behind the entry stairway. As the weird second hallway section seems to extend beyond the windowless kitchen wall, the implied space right beyond the kitchen is turned into the basement stairs. This also turns the whole basement by ninety degrees.
Lastly, there is the upstairs. As the placement of the staircase really does not change, the floorplan of the upstairs is not determined by that of the downstairs. In reality, the floorplan of the first attempt and that of the second attempt here could be interchanged if you fudged the proportions a little. Anyway, for this upstairs I collapsed the Luz Schrodinger's room wave function into the front-left corner state, meaning we're now adhering to the sloped roof visible in Luz's room rather than the desk window. I also gave the one corner that's never actually shown in the show an indent to give some room for the stairs to go up without the ceiling being in the way.
With her room in the front-left, this makes the hallway stretch from left-to-right, also solving that discrepancy discussed with the last attempt. Beyond that, I assigned the three visible doors upstairs to Luz's room, a hallway closet, and the home office (otherwise an empty space), with the shed window now being part of said office, and in the back there's Camila's room, a walk-in closet, and the en-suite bathroom to fill the remaining space.
All in all, a decently put together floorplan, I'd say. Now let's point out what's wrong with this one.

The inconsistencies #2

Let's get the obvious ones out of the way. Luz's desk window now doesn't face the front anymore, but this was one of two irreconcilable contradictions anyway. The other one is the lack of a living room window on the right side of the house, which again can't be fixed.
Speaking of windows, the one in Luz's room, above her low bookshelf, is not visible on the exterior, where only the shed windows are visible. Proportions just won't allow this shed window to belong to Luz's room, unless you fudge with things and make the other room on the front end be much thinner. At least there's now space for a window on the lower right wall near the back, which I added to the bit of hallway that reaches the right wall, between the dining room and pantry.
There are two glaring inconsistencies though, one being the fact the entrance hall no longer matches the one establishing shot, where the kitchen is visibly established as being oriented where its one window is facing the back. This kitchen window both facing the back of the house as well as showing one of the neighboring houses is the third irreconcilable contradiction.
Full entry hallway
The other big inconsistency involves the downstairs toilet, which happens to have a small window on the wall opposite the door. The stars are even visible through it.
Quantum tunneling toilet window
In this layout, this wall is an interior one, with the living room being on the other side. It seems this window is somehow capable of quantum tunneling to the exterior wall, which doesn't sound very realistic. (As an aside, I'll skip on figuring out a floorplan for the actual Owl House, citing magic as my excuse. That, or 'Hooty was feeling a little quirky with his insides that scene' when contradictory shots show up).

Concluding remarks

In general, the Noceda residence is decently well established, and does not have too many irreconcilable contradictions, as hoped for predicted in the introduction. Trust me, other cartoon houses are notorious for being extremely inconsistent in their depictions.

1. Luz's desk window suggests her room plus upstairs hallway stretch front-to-back, but the ceilings of her room and hallway show they stretch left-to-right.
2. The kitchen window is facing left, but the entry hall and kitchen are established to face front-to-back.
3. The living room is established to be in the front-right corner, but the window visible on the right wall is absent on the outside.

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with the two layouts I put together, though I personally prefer the second attempt. Besides the three irreconcilable contradictions, which you'll just have to pick and choose or ignore altogether, there's only three other contradictions here, compared to the five of the first attempt, which included the missing hallway. That, and things just fit together more neatly. I do like how both have at least one loop in them. I can just picture younger Luz doing the human equivalent of zoomies on the ground floor.
So, dear reader who's somehow found this post and read it to the end, which floorplan do you prefer, or think makes more sense? Keep in mind that you can swap the layouts for the upstairs between the two attempts as long as you adjust the proportions a little.
But that's enough out of me. I'll see you once the next side-tangent for fic writing hits and I put too much effort into it to not show it online.

Hey guys! I just moved into a new unit and recently my bathroom smells musky. At first I thought it's not cleaned properly (I clean it once a week) and did some deep cleaning many times. Then I realise some mildew growing on the corner tiles. How do you guys remove them and prevent them from growing? 😥 my bathroom door opens to the kitchen so my mum wouldn't allow us to keep the bathroom door open for ventilation too, she'll get mad. Then she gets mad when the smell wouldn't go away no matter how much we clean it. 😫

1800 hours in and doing a very hard playthrough with highest raids and I wanted to give a few defensive tips for my fellow Vikings. I don't use moats or dirt walls to make it more interesting, and I farm skills on raids.

1. Abatis. A barrier of felled trees made by planting trees and then felling them is very effective. You can jump over them but enemies can't and it makes controlling their pathing significantly easier.
   
2. Make a pig farm. Make a completely enclosed building about 1-2 floor tiles inside your defensive wall. The enemies will aggro onto the pigs but be unable to reach or harm them, and it will divert a certain amount of the wave so you can fight fewer at a time.
   
3. False walls. A line of half walls starting one floor tile out of your main wall with a roof so you can walk on it keeps enemies from getting so close to your main wall that you can't shoot them with a bow and allows you to abuse pathing and melee reach. You can out range most things with an atgeir or sledge like this and it also allows you to get enough knock back off of a mace to keep you from getting hit.
   
4. Spikes. The initial spikes are cheap and extremely effective in messionup enemies pathing and stunning them for arrow shots.
   
5. Iron grates. Close off all access to your building with grates, including chimneys, so bats can't get in and make rooting them out a necessity.
   
6. Fighting platform. If you plan on fighting waves in melee make a stone or better platform that has barriers 2 walls high and limited ingress. this will choke point enemies and concentrate them for AOE attacks and the barrier will allow you to stop and los ranged attacks.
   

Good luck out there brawlers! See you in Ashland's soon!

I’m redoing a 100+ year old house I inherited to live in. It’s pier and beam with a well ventilated crawl space above grade, in Texas.
The original part of the home has t&g flooring directly on floor joists with linoleum glued over the top. The linoleum and floorboards are in good shape and well-glued, so I intend to leave it as is, and lay 1/2” or 3/4” t&g plywood over it, to beef up the (new) subfloor and give me a nice surface to nail down hardwood floors.
There are additions on each side, that currently have 3/4” non-treated plywood subfloors that are also in great shape. One side will have the 3/4” t&g ply and hardwood flooring. The other is bathrooms, so I am planning to put down 1 1/8” Advantech to likely install tile over.
My questions are:
-For the hardwood, I am planning to put down the Floor and Decor “eco ultra quiet underlayment”. Is there any need or benefit to putting down an additional layer of polyethylene (or something else) elsewhere between my layers of subfloor? For example, between the layers of ply in the addition?
-Same question for the bathroom addition/Advantech side?
-What other parts of my plan are dumb and should be abandoned?

I’m redoing a 100+ year old house I inherited to live in. It’s pier and beam with a well ventilated crawl space above grade, in Texas.
The original part of the home has t&g flooring directly on floor joists with linoleum glued over the top. The linoleum and floorboards are in good shape and well-glued, so I intend to leave it as is, and lay 1/2” or 3/4” t&g plywood over it, to beef up the (new) subfloor and give me a nice surface to nail down hardwood floors.
There are additions on each side, that currently have 3/4” non-treated plywood subfloors that are also in great shape. One side will have the 3/4” t&g ply and hardwood flooring. The other is bathrooms, so I am planning to put down 1 1/8” Advantech to likely install tile over.
My questions are:
-For the hardwood, I am planning to put down the Floor and Decor “eco ultra quiet underlayment”. Is there any need or benefit to putting down an additional layer of polyethylene (or something else) elsewhere between my layers of subfloor? For example, between the layers of ply in the addition?
-Same question for the bathroom addition/Advantech side?
-What other parts of my plan are dumb and should be abandoned?

From the looks of the surroundings this ep was taped in late summeearly fall of 2023. Much to my dismay, Kevin didn’t drop a chuckle into the middle of his name when introducing himself this time. His intro showed that HVAC ductwork and spray foam roof insulation had been completed, with a goal to add to that to make a R60 roof. The 3 factory-made staircases from Glen Rock Stair Corp were installed already, but we would see them manufactured a bit later on along with a snippet of the installation process. If you can afford these (the owner said they do a lot of high-end projects, no surprise), it certainly seems like the way to go. Jenn met with son-in-law and new co-owner Jason’s parents from Ohio who were ex-landscapers who were pressed into service to lay a herringbone pattern walkway of brick pavers. One unanswered question for me was how these retained dimensional consistency through the firing process since that was always an issue with brick pavers in the past.
Zack pitched the benefits of Timberfill wood fiber insulation which supposedly had the same R value and fire and insect resistance as cellulose. For me the question then became one of cost but Zack indicated the cost was the same so I’m unsure of any other benefits over the more common cellulose. Down in the basement Kevin met with HVAC contractor Chris to review the heat recovery ventilator and we also saw the new Mitsubishi ducted heat pump HVAC installation which has become standard equipment in recent years for show projects. I guess Rich didn’t make the trip when this episode was taped. After that Keven met with architect Dan Kopec to discuss interior trim work options since it was all going to be new. Dan said that the rules of architecture would be used to determine sizing of things like baseboards which should be about 7% of the ceiling height in a room. From that window and door casing widths were to be about half the height of the baseboard. For cost reasons the homeowners chose a 1-piece crown molding and that was it. Next time, interior trim and floor tile gets installed and trees get planted!
Not a bad episode overall that seemed to shrug off the somewhat low energy (or maybe just subpar editing) we witnessed last week. Lots of fly-by segments discussing work that was already done or about to be done as is typical of remote projects these days. Only 3 episodes remaining.

After reading many posts here and Trumpkin, I’m a little overwhelmed/confused about ventilation. Do I need a fresh air vent above the electrical stove? I’m in a basement so that is my biggest challenge with ventilation (in or out).
My second road block is the flooring. It’s currently untouched concrete. Can I leave it as it and just cover it with duck board or is tile recommended for moisture reasons? Side note* I am unable to add a drain in my sauna without breaking the bank

This is what I wrote in the comment to answer a question, and thought it might be more useful when more people see this. Koreans say, 'You see as much as you know,' and this is even more accurate when you visit these two palaces. I think comparing the two palaces is quite fun, so I took out the boring stuff (to me) and tried to include things that enrich your palace visit.
Gyeongbokgung 경복궁

• The main palace built by the first king of Joseon in 1395.
• The beauty of it is relatively symmetrical. Many elements are perpendicular. In architecture, this typically aims to convey a sense of majesty or solemnity.
• The main idea of the palace is to make the king work based on the philosophy of Jeong Do-jeon(정도전), a sort of Korean Benjamin Franklin, so most kings didn't like it except King Sejong, who is known as the best king that Korea ever had.
• Most parts were burnt during the Invasion of Japan(1592) or completely messed up by the Empire of Japan(1910), so most of it has been rebuilt or restored over the last roughly 200 years (and still restoration work on-going)
• You should see Gwanghwamun(The Gate, 광화문), Geunjeongjeon(The Throne Hall, 근정전), Gyeonghoeru(The Pavilion, 경회루), Hyangwonjeong(The Octagon Pavilion, 향원정) and Chimneys of Amisan(아미산 굴뚝)
• P.S. When you look at the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion 경회루, turn around, and you'll see a building. The place where that building is located is where Hangeul, the Korean alphabet, was created in 1443. Most Koreans don't know this, so if you tell people passing by that it's Jiphyeonjeon(집현전), they're gonna be shocked.
• P.S.2. There's gonna be a large empty space where you purchase the ticket. That space is actually where the Empire of Japan built the Korea Colony Headquarter building (조선총독부). Japan constructed it deliberately between the main gate and the throne hall, and the Korean administration demolished it in 1995. Some of you may have seen an ugly and out-of-context building horrendously placed behind Gwanghwamun Gate in some K-dramas such as Reborn Rich(재벌집 막내아들).

Changdeokgung 창덕궁

• The 3rd king of Joseon became king through the rebellion (왕자의 난) and killed Jeong Do-jeon(정도전, remember? the Korean Benjamin Franklin) and one of his step-brothers in Gyeongbokgung.
• Gyeongbokgung was built based on the philosophy of Jeong Do-jeon(정도전). The 3rd king didn't like him, and he probably felt bad that he killed his step-brother there, so he built Changdeokgung and moved in 1405.
• The beauty of it lies in its asymmetry. The form follows nature. For example, upon entering the palace, turn right to cross a small bridge and stand at the Jinseonmun Gate. You'll see a "rectangle" plaza, with the throne hall on the left and a hill on the right. The plaza is actually skewed to appear like a rectangle because of the hill. The genius architect was sent to jail because the king didn't understand this in the plan view. Records state that the architect was eventually brought back to the project. We don't know why, but it's likely the king realized he was right.
• It has a garden behind called "The Secret Garden." I'd say must-go.
• The main idea of the palace is to let the king live his life, so most kings stayed in this palace... except King Sejong.
• Most parts of the palace are original or have stayed in their original shape, so it's the only palace that is recognized as UNESCO heritages in Korea.
• You should see Injungjeon(The Throne Hall, 인정전), Seonjungjeon (선정전, the only remaining blue roof tile palace building in Korea), and the Secret Garden.

Currently renting a house and have rented before this house, but I'm concerned as this house is all painted with pastel coloured matt paint so cannot be cleaned easily (compared to a silk/ emulsion/ scrubbable type of paint).
There are a lot of grease spots behind and next to the cooker from normal amounts of cooking (dinner every night/ every other night), and in any other house this area has been tiled so I can clean it easily but here the paint would just come off the wall if I tried to wipe it (I have tried in non conspicuous parts of the house with just a damp cloth).
Just wondering if we will likely be charged for a repaint, or is there a limitation on the landlord having parts of the house that are genuinely difficult to maintain?
A lot of the paint in the rest of the house is damaged from protruding damp (landlord knows about this and the house is well ventilated but doesn't do much when the moisture is coming THROUGH the wall haha) but I'm mostly asking about flat matt paint behind sinks and cookers, areas that would normally be tiled or have backsplashes?

Family and I are moving soon and found a lovely house but the fireplace can't be used because of "damaged tile". Would it be possible to pute a woodstove in the fireplace and use a pipe up the chimney? Would damaged bricks or tiles still be a problem due to the heat?

Hello,
I’m currently having my bathroom renovated and have a bit of an issue.
The plasterer I’ve had in has put plasterboard over the old bathroom air brick/vent (on an upstairs external wall), which my tiler has then tiled over. Apparently there was some miscommunication between tradesmen and the person who was supposed to leave a hole in the plasterboard for the vent cover to go back on didn’t get the memo.
I’m slightly worrried about ventilation in the bathroom now (I have a big window and am looking into installing a ceiling extractor fan) so hopefully this should be mitigated. But will the open vent on the outside of the wall pushing air up against the plasterboard now blocking the vent cause any issues?

Hi all,
I’m a FTB who has had an offer accepted on a 2 bed terraced Victorian property (approx. 100 years old).
Price was initially £135k (offers over), but offered £140k to secure the deal.
I had a building/level 3 survey completed on the property which, in summary, identified 4 main issues: -
1. Roof is exhibiting signs of structural instability, with obvious bowing/sloping and a higher than usual number of missing or damage tiles.
2. External chimney stack is equally showing signs of instability and erosion, in some parts unserviceable.
3. Cellar is being supported by seriously amateur support beams (essentially bodged planks of wood sitting on pieces of bricks), and exhibits an extreme level of damp.
4. Inside downstairs walls exhibiting higher than expected levels of damp penetration.
The survey included a lot of other ‘concerning’ issues, but like any older home I’ve ignored these as I knew what typical issues are to be expected for a home of this age. Similarly with the damp in the cellar.
The surveyor has suggested an estimate repair for the primary issues excl. damp to be approximately £15,000. This would include roof replacement and repointing of chimney stack simultaneously, addressing some of the damp excl. the cellar and some cost towards the support beams.
Firstly, does this seem fair? If yes, how do I go about professionally and respectfully negotiating this price from the current accepted offer (considering it’s 10%+ of the property price)…
Thanks in advance!

Hello,
I'm in the process of buying a house in Flower Mound, Texas. The house was built in 1998 and only one owner has occupied it since it was built. The owner recently passed away and the estate is selling the house. Because the owner passed, there was no Seller's Disclosure completed. I had the house inspected and found a number of issues, which I had posted here on a different post. I got a structural engineer to come check out the tilting of the house, and also a foundation specialist. If repair is needed then I will get an estimate which is easy to present to the seller. But since I'm a first time home buyer, I don't know how much I should negotiate for the remainder of issues.
Can you guys provide some advice on how much I should negotiate with these issues? Keep mind if foundation repair is needed I need to add that cost as well.
FYI, the accepted offer is already $12,000 above the listing price, and there were 2 other offers for the house, as a reference. One offer was not considered at all since it was really low, and the other was close so we went up 2K to make it 12K and got the offer accepted.

1. FOUNDATION

a. On the left side of the house, multiple post tension cables were visible and rusted – cable ends must be sealed to prevent further damage to the foundation.

1. Grading and Drainage

a. Drainage positioned toward the foundation – needs to be sloped away from the house and at least 6 feet from the foundation. These areas must be regraded to improve drainage near the foundation. (Rear right, front left and front right side of the house – see pictures 1, 2, and 3)
b. Drainage lacks splash blocks and downspout extensions at the rear of the house. These should be extended at least 4 to 6 feet away from the foundation. (See pictures 6, 7, and 8)

1. Roof

a. Repair damaged shingles with granular loss at the rear side of the house.
b. Tree limbs hanging near the roof at the front side of the house should be trimmed.
c. Gutters are full of debris and must be cleaned.

1. Walls (Interior and Exterior)

a. Gap on the exterior wall on the rear side of the house needs to be sealed (see picture)
b. Cracks at the brick veneer exterior walls in some areas need to be repaired (see picture)
c. Brick veneer exterior wall had separate or missing mortar at multiple locations. Must be repointed.

1. Ceilings and Floors

a. Kitchen floor tiles are not well bound, and some are observed to be cracked.
b. Common cracked tape joints on the ceilings – repair is needed.
c. The hallway bathroom caulking near bathtub is separated – repair is needed.

1. Doors

a. The door to the garage in the laundry room is missing self-closing hinges.
b. Master bathroom door has a damaged door stop.
c. The bottom of the garage door seal is too short and is not covering the entire door frame – daylight was visible with the door closed. Replacement is needed.

1. Windows

a. The windows in the dining room have a broken seal and moisture and discoloration is present between the glass panes. Repair is needed.

1. Fireplace and Chimneys

a. The fireplace is missing the damper – installation is required
b. The fireplace is inoperative – the pilot light can be turned on manually, but the switch did not respond and the fireplace cannot be turned on.

1. Electrical Systems

a. Gas pipe bonding wire is missing at the gas meter.
b. Smoke detectors/Carbon monoxide detectors are not installed in the laundry room. Smoke/CO detectors throughout the house are very old and need replacement. Safety hazard.
c. Electrical receptacles in the home were observed to be lack of found fault circuit interrupter device protection in multiple locations. This is a safety hazard and repair is required.

1. The switch for the ceiling light in the kitchen is inaccessible due to the refrigerator – relocation of the wall switch by an electrician is required.
   
2. Heating, AC, Ventilation
   

a. The indoor evaporator coil housing has air leaks in some areas – need to be corrected.
b. The condensate float switch is recommended to be installed in the secondary drain to avoid water damage.

1. Duct Systems, Chases and Vents

a. One of the flexible duct lines was sagging and not well supported. This should be corrected.

1. Plumbing

a. The toilet in the master bathroom was not well secured to the floor and it was wobbly. Needs to be fixed.
b. One of the master bathroom sinks was clogged (drained very slowly).
c. Exhaust flue pipes for the water heater in the attic were poorly connected with duct tapes – this needs to be repaired.
d. No sediment trap was installed at the water heater.
e. The combustion exhaust flue pipe for the water heater in the attic had inadequate clearance from combustibles. This requires 1-inch clearance from combustible materials. The insulation shield constructed of not less than 26-gauge sheet metal should be installed at the location where the flue pipe passes through insulation materials to provide clearance between the flue pipe and insulation materials. This is a FIRE HAZARD and needs to be corrected.
f. Metallic gas pipes and fittings located outdoors are missing corrosion protection. Needs coating or wrapping.

1. Appliances, Exhaust Vents

a. Exhaust fan for the bathroom is venting into the attic – the vent pipe should go outside and not into the attic.
b. The dryer exhaust vent pipe was not equipped with a damper at the vent’s outlet cover – this is deficient installation and presents a FIRE HAZARD. Repair is needed.

1. Landscape/Sprinklers

a. The sprinkler valve box had a missing cover – this must be installed to avoid freezing damage on the sprinkler valve and the water pipe line
b. The wire conduit for the sprinkler system control on the left side of the house is broken – this needs to be repaired.
c. Sprinkler head missing in zone 2, and due to such, it was not working as designed. Repair required.

1. Others

a. Wood fence needs sealants, and one of the wood panels is loose and not securely installed.
b. The concrete walkway in front of the house has a visible crack.
c. Fire ants are found at the rear of the house – pest control required.

My and my partner recently bought our first house (we're based in England) and through a survey we found out some simple roofing work to our valley gutters needed to be done to fix some damp coming into the house. With some money knocked off the price of the house(£3.5k), we got in a roofer to fix the roof. We initially had a quote from a really reliable construction worker who had done our neighbours roof, but he wasn't able to complete the work for months and the damp was getting worse. We had a few other roofers come round, all saying different things however the ones we chose to do the work said the same thing as our reliable construction worker so we went with them. Probably worth noting that they didn't inspect the roof properly before the job, despite us urging them too, as they were very confident that they knew what the issue was. They echoed what had been said by other inspections so we went with it.
We booked them to do the job for £5k, during work they said the roof was worse than initially thought and we would need to pay an extra £2k. We agreed and they completed the work, left a bit of mess (which they said they would clear up) and went on their way.
One morning we got heavy rainfall and water started coming in from the base of the chimney. It became quite bad and water has now gone through the floor and into our ground floor ceiling, therefore causing more damage that needs to be repaired.
We had three roofers come round and assess the work and have taken pictures. What we have noted is:

• we have significant leaking in multiple points of our bedroom and into our sitting room
• The chimney base is now allowing water into the house
• the valley gutters are still pooling water. Despite them saying that the pooling water is not an issue, they did state that they would build in a fall so that water would run off.
• There are holes in the material which is letting water in
• None of the EDPM is tacked down
• Our gutters are full of bricks and debris
• Ours and our neighbours roof is covered in cigarettes, paint pots and plastic bottles
• There was significant debris left in the back garden which we had to clear (contract stated all rubbish would be cleared.
• Plywood boards were left outside the front of our property since they've left
• we asked multiple times for photo evidence of the finished work and they never sent anything
• Silicone has been used instead of securing the EPDM properly
• 3 roofing tiles were left unattached which left the roof exposed.

We immediately asked for a full refund of the work. They have denied it being any of their fault (despite pictures being sent) and said they would refund £1000 'as a gesture of good will'. We said that wasn't good enough but he said he would speak to his 'business partners' for further advice. We said we would be happy to accept a £5k refund. He has since risen the refund amount to £2000, then £3000 as we have been repeatedly bugging him about this. We still don't think this is enough as we have been told all the work will need to be redone. We have also had to pay for quick repairs to stop more water coming through and we will need to pay for more repairs inside the house. This is obviously a massive knock for us, and has caused significant stress and a loss of money that we needed for furniture/general life stuff!
Obviously this is a huge learning curve for us as we have had no previous experience of this and will be aware of red flags next time however, we are thinking of taking this to a small claims court and telling the roofers this too, but wondered if its even worth it? Would we even get a chance to be get back more than the £3k they have said they would refund us?
Edit: added location