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Hi guys, just wanted to reach out to the sub for the best and cheapest way to port into FM. I am currently with PM and as you know they are removing the old rewards. With that my bill will increase 3 times of what I am paying now. So I plan to port in two numbers to FM t the 119$ yearly prepaid plan. What's the best/cheapest way do I do it? Should I go to the FM store for a physical sim or chat with customer care online and get esim activated or go to a third party store ( Walmart etc). I would like to avoid paying for sim and any activation charges. Your suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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It came up kind of recently if it was possible to put a gotek "online" with a USB wifi dongle so that you could centrally administer your floppy image files from a single network host (like a NAS device). Then you wouldn't have to keep moving a USB stick too and from some computer that has all your floppy images. And it gives a way to "kind of" network any retro computedevice that you can put a gotek inside. I guess it is also among the cheapest ways that you could give a device with a gotek some manner of network access.
That got me thinking that a Networked USB Mass storage device must already exist and a bit of googling did turn up a SanDisk USB stick that did just this. Though sadly they no longer make this. Then I figured a Raspberry Pi has both network and USB interfaces so surely one could be configured to act like this.
So... Behold:
I've produced a small guide in to getting this working if you would like to use a Raspberry Pi for networked mass storage access via USB. This is a generic solution, for instance if you have a TV that will play MP4s from USB stick, then you could use this to store your films on your NAS. I've added some gotek/Amiga specific notes at the end of the guide. When I get a moment I'll turn this in to a configuration script you can just run on your pi rather than having to do a load of separate config commands.
Guide here:
https://github.com/DanBuchan/Networked_USB_Mass_Storage

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I wrote this as a comment originally in another sub, but I needed to rant more vocally and I felt like there’d be some sympathetic ears here.
I work at a gas station, and for some reason that translates into me not deserving nice things in America. I kinda had no idea how much our society fucking hates service workers till I started working here full-time back in January.
It’s honestly kind of fucked: half the people I work with have kids, and have worked here for years. I’m lucky in that I don’t have kids and am able to live with family for cheap rent, but this is very much not the norm at my place of work. We get paid on average between 17.50-19.50 an hour (in CA, where the cheapest rent you can find is a $1300/mo studio), we get to earn 4 PTO days a year (which are not guaranteed to be accepted when I request them, and no designated sick days), our hours are not guaranteed, we don’t have a retirement plan outside of the option to maybe put money into an IRA on our own initiative, and we can and will be let go even for basic mistakes at times (“right to work” my ass, fuck at-will employment). We technically have health insurance, but it’s both expensive and dogshit.
It’s crazy how little we learned from COVID too: if someone at my work gets sick, they usually have to come in. They can’t afford to miss a day, especially considering the CoL here in California. So, what happens is that one person (or their usually small children) will get sick, and then the rest of us also get sick and also have to come into work. Then we handle your food, your cash, your condoms, your cigarettes, your alcohol, and stand much less than 6 feet away from you at a register with no PPE provided.
During COVID, my co-workers (I was in college during COVID) had to come into work because they were ‘essential’. Yet, pretty much constantly we don’t get treated like we’re essential. Probably about 25ish percent of our customers treat us like fucking garbage. I’ve been screamed at before by customers for asking for ID (which is the law for selling tobacco/alcohol here), I’ve been screamed at for taking more than 30 seconds to get to a person in line, and I have had to do stuff that is not in my job description ranging from: administering first aid, playing therapist to people, car maintenance, sheltering people after severe car crashes when the highway patrol drops them off, scaring off meth-heads, and de-escalating potentially violent situations with drunk people who are pissed I can’t sell them alcohol at 3am on a Monday. Honestly, this job isn’t even that bad compared to many other places that employ service workers. If I go online and complain about any of this, I’ll have like, scores of people tell me, “well, you don’t work a real job, what do you expect?”
I’ve even had my own family tell me that my job isn’t a “real job”, and they’re not even assholes.
Personally, my response to anyone that tells me I don’t work a “real” job (and therefore don’t deserve things like a living wage or sick pay) is this: if you really think that, then try not getting gas, going to a grocery store, getting fast food, buying clothes, or any other service that requires service workers. Then tell me I don’t serve a necessary function in society, and don’t deserve benefits.
Edit: Don’t even get me started on our janitorial staff. The things those poor fuckers have to clean up in our restroom 3 times a day are fucking ludicrous. They get paid as much as I do, and have the same benefits. One of our janitors just finished her bachelor’s, and is currently getting her Master’s.
Edit 2: I have 4 associates degrees, and was one year away from finishing my double major at a T10 before I had to drop out due to medical reasons.
Edit 3: I just wanna share one of my co-worker’s experience, because it’s depressing as hell. She’s 26, and has two kids (6 and 2). She splits a small studio with her boyfriend. She works nights and watches the kids during the day, he works days and watches the kids at night. They both drive 40+ minutes to work, and need to upkeep two cars so that they can both get to their separate work spaces. She’s been so sick the last week that she’s hacking up mucus most of the day. She can’t take the day off, or she can’t make rent. She also cleans the coffee pots and other dishes, handles food, and is in close proximity to the rest of us. Naturally, everyone else in my workplace is now becoming sick (including me). The poor thing can wear a mask, but like… Jesus. This is fucking untenable. It’s shameful.

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Hello There,
Over the past 5 months I have tested probably around 20 of these AI undressing websites. I wanted to share my experience with you after my comparisons.
AI-Nudes.app: From all the sites I tested I was quite impressed with this one. AI-Nudes had the most realistic results. Compared to the others, it's also the cheapest one. Pro: they allow fully nude undressing without needing to buy premium which the others don’t. :)
Undress .app, Undress .cc, Undress .love and Nudify .online: All of these look like they are from the same owners. They also provide good results, but are more expensive.
Ainude .ai: This one is good for anime style results if that’s what you’re into. Not the most realistic results I was after, but I understand the appeal.
What Do You Guys Think? Let me know

Background: graduated in mid-2023 with a Ontario 2 years diploma in Software Engineering Technician. Working remotely as a full stack SWE for a US Startup, and currently waiting for my PR approval.
I just passed my probation on my current job. feeling stable and the company are growing rapidly. So I think it is a good time for me to make some progress on my academic. My ultimate goal is going to US with TN Visa, or blue card in EU (Germany), a bachelor degree definitely help on both decisions.
my question is: Since I don't have a bachelor degree, so going to master degree may not be my option (there are 1 online master degree from U of Colorado Boulder are no bachelor degree required though). What would be my best and affordable choice to do in my current status?
I did some research and here are some of the places that allow me to finish the degree in a shorter time and the cheapest cost:

1. WGU: fully remote. But doubtful on recognition and expensive.
2. Algoma: allow me to transfer my credit in college, and it only need 1 year to finish it, lower cost. But its a Bachelor of Computer Science, not Bachelor of Science, it will be a problem if I want to pursue Master degree.
3. TRU-OL: pro: Canada Public University, recognition wouldn't be a problem. But the credit may not be transfer so make it longer to finish.
4. U of Colorado Boulder (MSCS): get master degree directly lol, fair cost and pretty easy to finish. But look super weird on resume and also, doubtful on recognition since its a online master on coursera.

how much time does it usually take to transfer money from wise to my bank account? Online says it can be transferred in a day but my employer says it'll take 3 days. also he says transfer fees are very expensive? is it? I thought wise was the cheapest best option out there. what's up with this?

Hello. I am still a beginner and recently, I found myself enjoying alcohol markers. I want to get serious focus on this medium but with my limited budget, I am at a loss about which brand/option is the best starter. I hope I can hear your opinions here, especially the ones from long-term alcohol marker artists. Here where I live, the choices are not as many and so far, here are my options after researching:
Deli Finenolo Markers - So far this is the cheapest yet decent brand I've found. The largest set is 80 colors which costs more or less $18. There's a brush tip which makes it a good option compared to other cheap brands like Touchnew/Touchfive/Touch but the downside is they're non-refillable. The skin tones included aren't much & seem on the orangey side (based on the videos I saw). The reviews online aren't much of a help since most I found either don't respond in the comments, use the marker for calligraphy, or are just straight-up promoting the product with not much review going on (just swatching).
Ohuhu Markers - Probably the collectively agreed alternative to Copic. There are like 2 sellers in my country but both of them don't sell refills. If I choose this, my problem would be they are always sold in sets here. I have yet to find individual markers for sale. The reviews say Ohuhu is good though.
Croma Markers - I can't find enough reviews online but the colors look good. The few ones I found said that their set of colors is close to Copic. Their price range is close to Ohuhu but a bit lower. I checked their official website & the refills are still WIP by the company.
Copic Sketch Markers - The biggest con is that they're expensive but they and their refills are more available here. I bought a few secondhand before from a decluttering mom who told me their kid made an impulsive request when she was abroad & it was a good deal (20-30% of the original price). I practiced with what I bought & I kinda realized it gets frustrating in the long run coz of my limited color choices. However, I recently found a local online shop that sells Japanese surplus items & Copic markers occasionally appear in their products. And it was always a battle during these times because of how cheap they were selling those.
I'm honestly kind of considering the Copic option but I'm also hesitating not just because of the costs but also the energy to decide which colors to choose. Buying a cheaper brand set seems a good option as well but my worry is not being able to use all colors, not to mention that there are no refills. I was thinking that maybe I could invest in Copic (or maybe another good brand) for skin tones and greys and then find a cheaper brand for other colors but I am also worried about how the colors from different marker brands would blend or how it would look overall.
Thank you very much for taking the time to read my post and a bigger thanks to everyone who will leave a comment.

Has anyone used "ACLS Medical Training" to do their BLS recert? Says it's only online while going through AHA requires an in person portion. Do you still get the same AHA card?

I put together a 10'x3' (1 foot high) planter box in my back yard. Honestly I underestimated just how much soil it would take to fill it. I'm reading online that I would need 34 0.75 cu ft bags of soil to fill it up to 10 inches high.
First, this seems like a huge pain, second, seems like a ton of money. What would be the cheapest way to get the planter box filled? Could I mix soil with some wood mulch, or would that make it harder for vegetables to grow well?

Morning Guys,
Haven't been driving long, only just getting into cars, Managed to pick up an older 2010 model 318i for a good price, non turbo n43 engine sadly, but car was a good price for the condition. It's pretty much in pristine condition, few months back it had a missfire, started stalling and a fuel injector had to be replaced which damb expensive (£850). Recently I notice that im getting a slight rough idle, small shake when the car is idle, noticing it at traffic stops and when im starting the car in the morning. Now im hoping its not another injector on the way out or one with a leak, but a few of my car buddies have said that i should be putting better fuel in the car.
Its not new, its done 120k miles, im using wherever has the cheapest petrol atm (supermarkets mainly), which is primarily e10 fuel. Money is tight, fuel is expensive but i guess so is car repairs soo i have a few questions. The car states e10 fuel, but i assume something like shell e5 would work fine in the car ?, and if im reading and listening right the fuel has additives to help clean the fuel system out etc.
Closest garage that has semi decent fuel is probably a shell garage which does vpower e5 fuel, some super markets are now doing premium as well, so would i benefit from switching to e5 fuel, with the additives in it helping the car.
Just wanted to add as well, the car is due a service, all the stuff has been ordered, oil is being switched this time to a different brand, its had Castrol every 10k miles for the last 3 services that i can see from the book, this time round after reading online i have ordered liqui moly moly gen stuff, (car has lifter tick), so hoping this will help it slightly. But i was wondering about adding fuel system cleaners like the liqi moly one, or even redex stuff, wondering if adding something like this will help my slight rough idle.
All advice welcome

A thread for new collectors to ask basic questions of the community.
Frequently Asked Questions below!
A longer version of the subreddit rules is here.
For questions specifically concerning bootlegs or vendor legitimacy, please ask in the Bootleg Megathread.
NSFW & Spoiler Guidelines

• For Self Posts: include a bolded NSFW note next to links in that post.
• For Links to sites/images: If the figure is NSFW, or the website has any NSFW content (including ads) be sure to tag your post NSFW and use the appropriate link flair.

Bootlegs
Any collection posts containing bootlegs, comments advocating buying bootlegs, or links to sites selling bootlegs, recasts, or unlicensed merchandise will be removed.
People often ask about the legitimacy and/or safety of a number of websites which sell large resin statues. The more commonly-asked of those deal primarily in resins from studios which do not have a license from the Japanese IP holders to produce merchandise. Therefore links to those sites are not permitted here. Another sign is if MyFigureCollection doesn't list the either the statue, its manufacturer, or the shop it's being sold on.
MyFigureCollection
My Figure Collection is like MyAnimeList... but for figures! Their database includes thousands of items which been produced during the last couple of decades, along with reviews of shops and other helpful articles. One can also list their own collection and post gallery photos.
Shops

Retailers:
AmiAmi HobbySearch Mandarake (sells rare figures) Good Smile Company Online Shop (often has exclusives) Good Smile Company US shop Crunchyroll Store Hobby Link Japan (aka HLJ) Solaris Japan (MFC partner) BigBadToyStore (MFC partner, US retailer) Big in Japan (also has proxy service) Tokyo Otaku Mode FigureHaven Archonia (EU) Yorokonde (EU) Figuya (EU) Gamersheek (UK) Jungle
List of retailers on MFC
/AnimeFigures' List of Retailers
Community Guide to Shopping in Japan

Blogs/News:

Nekomagic (News/Previews) NyaaFigurines (Reviews/Releases) Kahotan's Blog (News/Reviews) Figma Blog (JP)

Buying & Shipping

1. What’s the best place to buy my anime figures from?
That’s going to depend a lot on what works for you, but most people around here buy them from Amiami, Big in Japan, Hobby Search, HobbyLink Japan, or Tokyo Otaku Mode. If none of those work for you for whatever reason, there’s a list of reputable retailers in the sidebar that you can check out at any time. Be extra careful when ordering figures from websites like Amazon or ebay, as there are a lot of bootlegs on those sites. Don’t be afraid to ask in our Bootleg Megathread if you’re unsure.
2. What differences are there between the shipping options I get from most Japanese shops?
Below is a rundown of the main shipping choices you’ll get at most retailers. Keep in mind that if an order is large enough you will be forced to use one of the more expensive options, as SAL shipments have lower size and weight restrictions.

• Unregistered SAL: Sometimes referred to as uSAL, is usually the cheapest method. It does not come with any tracking or insurance. Usually takes up 2-4 weeks for delivery.
• Registered SAL: Sometimes referred to as rSAL, is insured for the declared value up to 6,000 yen. It comes with a tracking number and usually takes 2-4 weeks for delivery.
• EMS: This method of shipping is much faster than either SAL options, usually arriving within a week of shipment. EMS shipments are insured for the declared value up to 2,000,000 yen.
• Airmail
• E-packet
• Surface: Shops don't offer this very often. It's an actual cargo ship and slow as a result.
  
• DHL: Becoming more available as an alternative to EMS on AmiAmi and other sites. Can be less expensive than EMS and of comparable speed, but may be more reliant on the specific geographical area being shipped to. The price is also determined by the size of the box. Offers their own tracking.
  

3. I placed two+ orders for figures at different times. Will my items be shipped together, or will I have to pay shipping twice?
Most shops will ask you to pay shipping on a per-order basis, but here are some that will allow combined shipping:

• Amiami: You can combine orders here, as long as the orders ship in the same month. It doesn’t matter if the item is new or preowned. Any preorders that are set for that month can also be combined with other orders for that month. However, be aware that if the preorder gets delayed, Amiami will remove that item from that month’s shipment and place it on a new order. To combine orders on Amiami, use the “Combine Orders” feature under “My Account”.
  
• Hobby Search: Hobby Search will let you combine orders that release in the same month, but you cannot combine in stock items with preorders. If you want to combine multiple preorders, or multiple in stock items, you can do so using the “Order Recombination” feature on your account page.
  
• HobbyLink Japan: At HLJ, you have the option to send paid orders to their “Private Warehouse”, where you can store them for up to 2 months. When you’re ready to ship the items, you simply select which items to ship and HLJ will combine them into one shipment for you. To use this, just select the “Private Warehouse” option as shipping when you order.
  

If you’re unsure about whether or not a shop we haven’t listed will combine your orders, please refer to their individual FAQs.
4. When will I get charged for my preorder?
Most Japanese shops charge you once the item is in stock and ready for shipment. When that happens, they will send you an email asking for payment. Some shops (mostly overseas ones), will allow you to pay for the item up front though, if you’d like. A few with that option are:

• Big in Japan (Japanese store)
• Tokyo Otaku Mode
• Anime Island
• Crunchyroll

Keep in mind that overseas stores will likely get the figure a few months after Japanese ones, so pay attention to the release date stated on the website you are buying from so as to avoid that confusion.
5. Should I expect to pay customs fees when importing figures?
That depends on where you live. Here’s a quick rundown:

• Australia: 10% GST is now assessed up front.
• Canada: Minimum declared value for charges is around CAD$20 for regular shipments, and CAD$60 for gifts (gifting something only seems to lower the declared value by about CAD$40, not deplete it completely). When using Amiami, try their Small Air Packet option. It comes with tracking, gets there in about the same time as EMS, and is better at avoiding customs.
• European Union: As of 1st July 2021, VAT has to be paid on all goods imported from outside of the EU. Retailers are supposed charge VAT for purchases under €150, however many Japanese retailers currently do not, so VAT will be charged when your order arrives in the EU. Orders that are >€150, VAT and duty will be charged by your local customs.
• UK: As of 1st January 2021, VAT is to be charged by retailers for orders <£135. However, customs isn't currently charging VAT on parcels valued at <£135, even if the VAT hasn't been paid. Goods >£135 will have their VAT and duty calculated and charged by customs.
• Mexico: Minimum declared value for customs fees is USD$300 for shipments by post, and USD$50 for shipments by courier.
• United States: A shipment has to have a declared value of USD$2,000 before customs starts hitting you with fees, so you most likely won’t have to worry about them at all.

6. The figure I want is an exclusive, how do I go about ordering one outside of Japan?
You have three options for this:
A. Big in Japan is known to stock exclusive figures and ship to other countries. Usually the price is higher because they build in their proxy fees, but it’s easier than worrying about using a forwarder or proxy service. If you live in the US, Crunchyroll, Right Stuf, and Tokyo Otaku Mode also get exclusives sometimes, but out of the states the shipping can get expensive.
B. Forwarding Services: A forwarder is someone who you ship an exclusive item to so that they can forward the package on to you, usually for a flat fee + shipping. When using a forwarder you still make the purchase yourself, and enter their address into the shipping field. When the box arrives at the forwarder they will then stick your address onto the package and send it on its way.
Some popular forwarders are:

• Big in Japan
• Tenso

Be sure to read each sites instructions on forwarding carefully!
C. Proxy Services: With a proxy, you tell them what the item you’re looking for is and they will purchase it in your stead. This is handy for when a company doesn’t accept foreign credit cards, or you’re having trouble navigating a Japanese website.
Some popular proxies are:

• Big in Japan (Won’t proxy for Yahoo Auctions)
• From Japan

Again, be sure you thoroughly read through each sites proxy instructions.
7. I see a bunch of really cheap figures that ship from China on ebay. Are those okay to buy?
Generally, no. They’re most likely bootlegs. If you want a second opinion on that, feel free to ask in the Bootleg Megathread that’s always stickied at the top of the sub.
8. What’s a bootleg, and how can I avoid buying them?
A bootleg is a counterfeit figure often made using rejected molds of the official product. They are usually priced significantly lower than the genuine article, and in order to make their profit, bootleggers use lower quality materials and have less attention to detail- resulting in a substandard figure.
The Bootleg Megathread that I mentioned in question 7 is a great tool to avoid buying any bootlegs. It has a few tips and tricks to avoiding them to begin with, and a few more on how to spot them if you’re worried you might already own one.
9. Does anyone know when figure X is going to be released? How do I know if it was delayed?
My Figure Collection (sometimes referred to as MFC) does an excellent job of staying on top of information like release dates and delays. If you’re curious about an upcoming figures release date, check there first. This information can be found directly under the “Releases” section on a figure’s entry. If you only see a month and a year in that section, it means the release date has not yet been announced by the manufacturer, and there is still a chance the figure could be delayed.
If you make an account on MFC you can also subscribe to comments, changes, and pictures via a checkbox on the right hand side of a figure’s listing. Subscribing to any of these things will allow MFC to send you an email anytime the subscription in question updates. Subscribing to “changes” is a great way to keep up with release dates and delays, among other things.
10. The figure I want is long sold out at normal retailers! What’s the best place to pick it up in the aftermarket?
A list of reputable retailers can be found under the “Shops” section of the /AnimeFigures sidebar. They all sell legitimate products, and many of them also sell figures second hand. However, the most frequently suggested second hand sites are Mandarake and Amiami- who has a preowned section that they update every night save Sundays and Japanese holidays around 1PM JST and again around 6PM JST.
AmiAmi grades their pre-owned items on a letter scale. The general consensus from buyers is that their ratings are conservative, so unless the item and/or packaging is specifically indicated as having significant flaws, pre-owned items from them are usually in at least as good a condition as their rating suggests.
Note: When you search Mandarake, you’ll get the best results by using the Japanese characters for whatever you are searching. If you don’t know them, you can find them on MFC by clicking on any of the “details” in that figure’s listing.
11. Amiami has a figure I’m interested in labeled as “For sale in Japan only”. Does this mean I can’t order it without a proxy or forwarder?
No, you can still order it. Amiami’s English site has that warning on many items, and it’s mostly meant to inform you that this product was made for a Japanese market, and as such, will have Japanese speaking/writing in it- so don’t expect any instructions to be in English. If Amiami doesn’t want foreigners buying a certain product, they won’t even list it on their English site.

Displaying Your Figures

12. What display cases do you recommend?
If you live near an Ikea try out one of these:

• Klingsbo
• Billy (Often used with Morliden doors (now the HÖGBO and glass shelves.)
• Detolf: Formerly the go-to choice for inexpensive display cabinetry, the Detolf was first made flimsier around 2020 and then essentially phased out of the name, to become the BLÅLIDEN. Knockoff versions of widely-varying quality are commonly found on other shopping sites these days, though.

*If you decided on a Detolf, you might find that there is a lot of wasted space. Here are a few tutorials on raising the shelves or and adding extra ones in.

• Using metal clips
• Using acrylic supports and PVC pipe

If you don’t live near an Ikea, Amazon has a few display options, though they are more expensive. Also keep an eye on your local Craigslist (or your country’s equivalent) and stores near you that are closing up.
13. What lighting do you guys recommend?
Ikea’s Dioder LED strips were discontinued after a long run. A current version is the Vattensten, if you're inclined to buy your case and lights at the same time.
LED strips have become very commonly available in recent years; most hardware and home furnishing stores carry a selection now. Just make sure that the lights don’t get too hot!
14. What are those clear plastic boxes that I see under everyone’s figures in their collection posts, and where can I get them?
Those are called risers. Most of us use standard acrylic risers like these. Some other, easy to find things that have been suggested are:

• Plastic picture cubes
• Card Deck Boxes
• If you’re feeling adventurous, try making your own!

Check your local hobby store for the first 2 options, or your local hardware store if you want to make your own.
Another common suggestion is to visit The Container Store if you have one near you. They have a lot of things to choose from that can suit a variety of needs. Be sure to check out their standard acrylic risers, their Amac boxes, and the various display cases they sell (baseball cases, mini car cases. hockey puck cases, etc).
15. Should I keep my figures sealed?
That is, of course, up to you really, but here are a few things to keep in mind when debating this question:

• Keeping it sealed can actually damage your figure. PVC figures usually have something called plasticizer in them, and that plasticizer needs to be able to breath. If a PVC figure isn’t exposed to oxygen, after a period of time the plasticizer starts to break down and form a sticky substance on the surface of the figure. Simply opening your figures and taking them out of the box prevents this from happening. If you happen to find plasticizer goo on one of your figures, Kahotan has a handy guide for dealing with it.
• Unlike some other figure markets, keeping an anime figure sealed won’t raise its value by a whole lot. In fact, because of the plasticizer problem mentioned above, your figure could actually be in better condition if you open it versus keeping it sealed.

Finding the Right Figure(s) for You

16. What are "scales" and "prizes"? What is the difference between them?
Those are classifications for figures based on a few factors.

• "Prizes" are generally more simply produced figures which are intended to be given as prizes for playing arcade games. They are inexpensive and lack the detail of scale figures, though some prize figure lines have standouts which may approach lower-end scales in quality. That is uncommon and often depends on the individual figure.
• "Scales" are called such because they are nominally designed to be proportional to the dimensions of the character which they are based on. They are generally of much better manufacture and materials than prize figures, allowing for more detail in painting, accessories, or complex poses.
• "Trading" figures appear in gashapon machines or as blind boxes on shop counters, often as sets which include multiple characters. As suggested by the class name, the randomness encourages trading. They are usually very inexpensively-produced, though as with prizes, some series are better than others.
• "Non-scale" encompasses a variety of other categories. It is often used to describe poseable figure lines such as figma and Nendoroids.

In recent years producers such as Good Smile Company attempted to further bridge the gap between prize quality and scales by introducing figure lines which are intended to be moderately-priced while retaining a higher level of detail than the typical prize figure, to varying levels of success.
17. There are so many figure companies! Who makes good figures?!
Obviously this is a very subjective question, but as a general starting point, here are a few well renowned figure companies:

• Alter
• Max Factory
• Good Smile Company
• Kotobukiya (usually hit or miss for people. Use your best judgement based off of the prototype)
• Flare
• Stronger

18. I really love “series X / character X”- how can I check if any figures were ever made for it?
My Figure Collection can be your best friend here. Simply do a search on the name of the series or character using the search bar located at the top right of the screen, and all associated figures pop up!
Alternatively, if you’re looking at a figure’s MFC entry, most of the text under the “Details” section can be clicked on and used to run a search.
19. How can I commission a custom figure?
None of the major figure companies (Alter, Kotobukiya, Good Smile Company, etc.) will take a commission for a single figure. This thread has a few websites in it that you can check out, or you can look into garage kits. Some kit painters would be willing to resculpt, frankenstein together, or otherwise modify kits for the right price.
If you're looking for help completing a garage kit, /brushforhire may be useful.

Keeping Up with New Announcements

20. How can I keep up with figure news (announcements, updates, etc.)?
Most people use a MFC combined with any or all of the following news sites:

• Neko Magic
• Alter’s Blog (In Japanese)
• Kahotan’s Blog (Only GSC and their sister companies)

Many figure companies are active on Twitter, so following them there is recommended for quicker news.
To use MFC for this I’ll quote question #9.

If you make an account on MFC you can also subscribe to comments, changes, and pictures via a checkbox on the right hand side of a figure’s listing. Subscribing to any of these things will allow MFC to send you an email anytime the subscription in question updates. Subscribing to “changes” is a great way to keep up with release dates and delays, among other things.

Most companies have one or more Twitter accounts. Some examples: Good Smile Company sales, Good Smile's USA branch, Max Factory, AmiAmi Hobby News.
21. Everyone’s excited about something called Wonfes….. what the heck is that?!
WonFes (short for Wonder Festival) is a biannual figure expo where many figure producers (both large and small) show off new sculpts and updates to figures already under way. Most companies save their most exciting announcements for WonFes, so we all look forward to the expo whenever it rolls around! Winter Wonder Festival is usually held in February, while Summer Wonder Festival is usually in July. The event has also spread to Shanghai, in the late spring.
22. One or two (or 15) figures were announced at WonFes that I’m really excited about! How can I keep track of their progress once the event is over?
MFC is always really quick about getting new WonFes announcements (or any others throughout the year, for that matter) listed in their database, so we suggest using that. To find a figure from the event you can search any number of things, including the name of the character or the name of the show. You can also use the tag search to search “WonderFestival 20xx_[season]” to see all items announced at that event.

So basically I have 90 credits at an accredited university. A lot of those are elective and major specific(English credits). I am not in a position where I can afford money wise or the time to attend the physical school anymore. I don’t care where my degree is from, I just want to know the cheapest and fastest way I can get my bachelors online and need advice.

I'm travelling to Manchester from New Delhi next month (5th till 16th June) and I saw that Gulf Air is providing the cheapest price plus extra baggage too. If anybody could suggest me the following

1. Do I need a transit visa? I see online that I don’t. Just checking on the same.
   
2. How is Gulf Air according to the services they provide?
   
3. Am I supposed to be aware of any restrictions while flying via Bahrain? If yes then May I know the same.
   
4. Any suggestions or previous experience that you can share. Please let me know.
   

My other options are Emirates and Qatar cause they don’t require transit visa but that’s like almost 1000GBP. If I add 200GBP more I’ll get one way business class on Gulf 😆
Indian Passport holder UK 6 months visa