Inwin computer

Strap in for some lengthy details.
My mum wants to get a new PC since her last one is quite old and now can't boot into windows apparently. I bought a new PC parts except a GPU since she won't be needing it. Whilst building I realize that these new parts are better than my dad's old PC and he does game on it so I figured he would make better use of those components.
For my dad's PC, I swapped out his old Ryzen 5 1600 for a Ryzen 5 5600G, new ram, PSU and an RX 580 I had lying around. I didn't touch his storage at all. On boot, it would load into BIOS and I could see that it recognized the 5600G and the new 32GB of RAM. However, it wouldn't load into windows and instead it did the automatic windows repair and couldn't fix the problem. I thought to myself that his B450m might not have the right BIOS version to handle the 5600G so I swapped it out for the newer B550m that I just got. Same problem.
For my mum's computer, it won't boot up at all. I double checked that I connected everything, power supply cable (turned on), main power cable into the motherboard and the power switch for the front panel are all connected. I will note that the PSU is my dad's old PSU which he dug up ages ago. It's kinda sketchy, a super old INWIN unit. I don't even think it's 80+ certified. It ran fine on my dad's old computer though and has been doing so for the past 5+ years. I don't think it would suddenly give up and die just because I changed it to a new case.
I've built maybe 5~6 PCs in my life and I've never really had these issues happen to me before. BIOS and boot problems I had but not specifically the one my dad's PC is having. I especially never had a PC just straight up not boot.
Here's the current specs:
Dad's PC:
MSI RX 580 8GB (Old, 3+years)
ASUS PRIME B550M-A WIFI II (New)
Ryzen 5 5600G (New)
Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (New)
Western Digital Blue Sata SSD (Old, 3+ years) (Windows Installed)
2 x 1TB Western Digital HHD (Old, ? years)
Corsair CX650 80+ PSU (New)
​
Mum's PC:
GTX 750 Ti (Very old)
Gigabyte B450M DS3H (Old, 3+ years)
Team T-Force Delta RGB 16GB (Old, 3+ years, had some problems when I installed it into my PC years back, gave it to my father who then used it for 3+ years with no problems)
Ryzen 5 2600 (Old CPU I used for 3+ years)
1TB Crucial P3 (New, no OS installed)
Sandisk SSD (Old, ? years, 'broken' Windows installed)
1TB Western Digital HHD (Old, ? years)
Inwin 650 PSU (Very old)
​
​
​

PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor	$529.00 @ Amazon Canada
CPU Cooler	Deepcool LT520 WH 85.85 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler	$124.99 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard	Gigabyte B650M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard	$249.99 @ Amazon Canada
Memory	Corsair Dominator Titanium 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory	$244.99 @ Amazon Canada
Storage	Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	$209.99 @ Best Buy Canada
Video Card	Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card	$849.00 @ Canada Computers
Case	In Win 301C MicroATX Mini Tower Case	$89.98 @ Memory Express
Power Supply	Corsair SF750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply	$169.99 @ Amazon Canada
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$2467.93
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-05 05:29 EDT-0400

Hey all, this might be a long one.
I bought a prebuilt pc from a well-respected online retailer a number of months ago for my other half and have been through absolute hell trying to get this thing to work properly. I’ve sent it back to their repairs department about half a dozen times and it’s still no better today than it was when I got it. It’s gotten to the point where they even replaced every component in it, including the case (allegedly) and the same issue persists. I have myself even replaced the mouse and keyboard just because I am absolutely lost.
The issue is, after playing games for seemingly any amount of time, at random the windows “disconnect noise” will sound, and any number of random things could power off for a few seconds. It could be the RGB of the case, the lights on the cpu, the mouse or keyboard, headphones. It could be everything at once, a couple things or nothing at all, I’ve heard the sound before and seen no difference in anything at all. It is incredibly confusing and incredibly random. There are no noticeable spikes on anything within task manager, and no consistency in the activity that prompts this response.
As I’m sure you can imagine, this makes the computer completely unusable sometimes, or is at least very irritating when it happens in a minor way.
As I stated above, I have looked it over myself and see no obvious issues. A professional repair team has looked at it several times, and have even switched out the components. I have replaced the peripherals, and the computer itself regularly changes locations so the voltage isn’t an issue.
Specs: Case: Corsair 4000X iCue RGB
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 4500 - 6-Core 3.60GHz
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B550M-Plus
PSU: InWin A65 650W 80+
GPU: GeForce RTX 3060 12GB
TLDR: PC’s peripherals randomly disconnect. Never had a crash but it’s unplayable at points. All new components and MKB.
Please help! This is driving me insane! Thank you so much to anyone who can offer wise words.

My computer:
CPU: 5800X3D (with Kombo Strike 3)
AIO: Lian Li Galahad AIO 360
Motherboard: X570S MSI CARBON MAX WIFI
RAM: 64 GB of RAM (DDR4 - 3600 MHz)
GPU: RTX 4090 Gigabyte Gaming OC
Fans: 7X - INWIN Sirius Extreme Pure AS 120
Power supply: Be quiet! Straight Power 11 1000W
Case: LIAN LI O11D Dynamic Evo (white)
Thermal paste: Thermalright TF8
A friend's computer:
CPU: 7950X3D
AIO: Lian Li Galahad AIO 360
Motherboard: ROG STRIX X670E-E GAMING WIFI
RAM: 64 GB of RAM (GDDR5 - 6000 MHz)
GPU: ASUS TUF RX 7900 GTX OC Edition
Fans: 7X - INWIN Sirius Extreme Pure AS 120
Power supply: Be quiet! Straight Power 12 1000W
Case: LIAN LI O11D Dynamic Evo (white)
Thermal paste: Thermalright TF8
Why i have in stress test with my 5800X3D 81-82°, but he have 56-60°? 7950X3D should be a lot hotter, shouldn't it? I just can't understand why i have higher temps than he
We literally have the same PCs, i really can't understand why my temps is higher (room temps is the same, i think mine even cooler, mine is around 22°)

Spring cleaning, comment before pm. Can meet locally (94587) until Wednesday, then weekend.
Prices are local/shipped
Timestamps

Motherboard/CPU combos

• Gigabyte Z490 Aorus Pro AX, i7-10700K, 4x16GB DDR4-3200 Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro - $300/$325
• Asus ROG Strix B450-F Gaming, R5 5600X - $140/$150 - Sold to u/Josh_ftw
• Supermicro X11SSQ, i5-6500 - $60/$70
• MSI B360 Gaming Arctic, i5-8400 - $90/$100 - Sold to u/Phreakxsh

CPU

• Ryzen 7 3700X - $85/$90 - Sold to u/hankpor89
• i5-9600k - $70/$75 - Sold to u/Pure_Candle_95

Memory

• G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 2x32GB - $95/$100 - Sold to u/DikBuut
• Crucial DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM 2x16GB - $35/$40 - Sold to u/hankpor89
• Crucial DDR5-5600 SO-DIMM 2x16GB - $65/$70 - Sold to u/racecarman12
• Corsair DDR5-4800 SO-DIMM 1x16GB - $25/$30

Computers

• HP EliteDesk 800 G3 DM (65W) - i5-7500, 16GB (1x16GB), 512 GB nvme (Empty 2.5" bay), 1GBe, 2.5GBe, 90W power supply - $90/$100
• HP Elitedesk 800 G3 SFF - i3-6100, 8GB, no storage, includes screws for two 3.5" HDD, good starter 2 disk NAS - $20 local only

Cases

• Fractal Node 804 - With box and most accessories (missing 4 rubber grommets for mounting hdd) - $80 local only
• Fractal Define R5 - BNIB - $100 local only
• Inwin A1 mini-itx case - missing 2.5" drive sleds and power supply cover - $30 local only

Misc

• Asus RT-AC66W - $10/$20
• Airpods Pro 2nd Gen - $120/$130
• Airpods 3rd Gen - $90/$100

Build list :
8600G
GB a620i AX
G skill 6800 cl34 45-45-108.
Stock AMD cooler
Okay so Using the a620i AX I built an APU system in one of the SFF InWin cases. To cut straight to the chase when the computer is idle and not working the computer crashes, but it can run Adia 64 for atleast 8 hours hours (longest I’ve ran it).
I’m pretty sure it’s because the voltage drops to low when the cores aren’t working and the computer black screens and restarts itself.
Gigabytes bios is not user friendly at all. I know it’s a bottom barrel board price wise but to label everything In abbreviation with underscores just feels lazy and it makes it hard to fix the problem from a novice point of view.
Asus, MSIs, and asrock have all been better experiences.
I was thinking about taking the voltage setting tied to the CPU off of auto and setting it manual but I’m having a hard time determining which one to adjust and to what setting.
Should I look at potentially fixing the clock speed to not allow the clocks to dip so low? That would sacrifice efficiency I’d assume.
I’ve already tried disabling c state. Although that seemed to improve the situation it did not entirely fox it, just caused it to happen less often.
I am running the FLCK at 2400 but considering the stability displayed when stress testing I don’t think that is the cause of the crashes.

Edit: thanks for the replies, everyone. I'm going to look at some prebuilds and laptops. Thanks for the part lists, too!
Going for ~$600 max budget. Main uses will be email and MS office. My gma would like it to be the last computer she buys. Thoughts?
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor	$91.60 @ Amazon
Motherboard	Gigabyte B550M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard	$109.99 @ Newegg
Memory	Crucial CT2K4G4DFS824A 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2400 CL17 Memory	$25.99 @ Amazon
Storage	Crucial BX500 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive	$39.99 @ Amazon
Case	In Win CE685.FH300TB3 MicroATX Slim Case w/300 W Power Supply	$110.78 @ Amazon
Operating System	Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - Download 64-bit	$123.94 @ Walmart
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$502.29
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-27 09:27 EST-0500

Hi all,
I have decided it's time to get started on building another PC after a few years of my first ever build. Only problem is, it's been a very long time since I last took a look at anything PC related. I've got a case (InWin A1 Prime White) already here, I just need to sort out the other parts. I've put together a PCPartPicker list but I could use some advice on whether the things I've chosen are a good idea.
I'm relatively strict on the budget I'm spending unless there's a pretty good reason as to why I should go higher. The aesthetics of the build is very important, and I am going for a snow-white build with RGB accents. It's quite important that the RGB all syncs well, not sure how well all-in-one programs work anymore. From what I knew, 120mm watercoolers aren't ideal, but I especially like the aesthetic look of them over air-coolers and my case won't fit a 240mm. I'm also least sure on the GPU. I've had a RX 5700 XT for the last few years, and although it's done me well, driver and compatibility-wise it has always seemed like NVIDIA has been better. Mind you, I've heard the 40 series GPUs aren't ideal.
I could appreciate any advice, cheers :)
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor	£209.13 @ Amazon UK
CPU Cooler	Thermaltake TH120 ARGB Sync 59.28 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler	£100.30 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard	ASRock A620M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard	£132.74 @ NeoComputers
Memory	TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL40 Memory	£114.05 @ Amazon UK
Storage	Western Digital Blue SN580 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	£109.99 @ Western Digital
Video Card	Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 8 GB Video Card	£407.21 @ NeoComputers
Case Fan	Corsair iCUE SP RGB ELITE 47.73 CFM 120 mm Fan	£18.98 @ Amazon UK
Case Fan	Corsair iCUE SP RGB ELITE 47.73 CFM 120 mm Fan	£18.98 @ Amazon UK
Custom	InWin A1 Prime	Purchased For £237.15
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	£1348.53
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-30 11:42 GMT+0000

I built my dad a budget computer just for browsing and youtube/media streaming in a compact inwin case about 4 years ago. No graphics card so it has to be a APU. I put in a 3400g but want to put in a 5600g.
Would that be a decent upgrade or not worth it for future proofing?
I want it to be faster and have stronger integrated graphics.
TIA

I have two different varieties of case. They are identical internally. The only thing that changes is the face plate. I have 32 of the CE685 (wider stack) and 39 of the CE052 (taller stack). They are $5/ea + shipping, which is less than $20/unit in almost all cases. See the link below for specs on InWin's Website: https://in-win.com/en/computer-chassis/ce-series/APAC Power supply specs here: https://in-win.com/en/pc-power-supply/ip-s-series-ff/APAC
​
https://imgur.com/a/QhNSNzV

After searching for cases for my PC build that has:

1. Updated front USB ports (I'm using the ASUS ROG STRIX 790-H) that has 1 x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 connector (supports USB Type-C®), 1 x USB 3.2 Gen 1 header supports 2 additional USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports, and 2 x USB 2.0 headers support 4 additional USB 2.0 ports
2. External 5.25 drive bays (one, minimum); for my optical BD/DVD drive that I'm moving over from my old build
3. Don't really care for fancy RGB lights, see through panel, etc. This is going under my desk.

I found a case that seems to fit this criteria: the InWin C200 "Content Creator" case:
https://www.in-win.com/en/gaming-chassis/c200
https://www.amazon.com/WIN-Computer-Content-Creator-Designedp/B086D77M1L/
The problem is that I can't seem to find one priced reasonably (in the US). Newegg doesn't carry it, Amazon doesn't have it anymore, and while InWin US e-store has it for $100, the shipping cost is insanely expensive (over $53+)
Hey InWin, how about a discount/coupon code (on your website) to help out on the shipping?
​

I am trying to build a computer with an Aorus B550 Pro AX gaming motherboard. It's a mini ATX. I've searched several times, scanned the QR codes on the "manual" that comes with the board, and tried looking at similar boards. I can't find a diagram for the front panel connectors anywhere. I can't even find where to put the connectors. Most of the pins are labeled--audio USB, fan headers, all that--but nothing says anything about front panel connectors. My case has three cables, each with two holes: power LED, reset, and power. I don't have the exact model of the case, but I can get it if needed. It's an Inwin with 8 drive bays.
Can someone please point me to where I can find the diagram to properly wire up the case? I don't know why I can't find it, but I've been at this for over an hour with no luck. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

I am buying a new computer and was wondering if these specks were good enough for modern gaming?(The text is translated from my native language so it might be a little of).
• Tower box: InWin A3 mATX
• Power supply: 850W 80+ Bronze
• Motherboard: ASRock B760M PG Riptide
• Processor: Intel Core i7-13700F 16C/24T
• Processor cooling: Arctic Freezer i35 CO
• RAM: 32GB DDR5 5200MHz
• SSD disk: 1TB M.2 NVMe
• Free disk space: 2x 3.5/2.5", 1x 2.5" SSD/HDD
• Video card: nVidia RTX4070 12GB
• Sound card: Integrated in the motherboard
• Network card wired: 2.5Gbit Ethernet
• Network card wireless: No
• Front connector:
• 1x USB3.2 Type-C
• 2x USB3.2 Type-A
• 1x Audio-out
• Rear connector:
• 1x USB3.2 Type-C
• 3x USB3.2 Type-A
• 4x USB2.0 Type-A
• 3x Audio Jacks
• 1x RJ45
• Monitor port:
• 3x DisplayPort
• 1x HDMI
• Dimensions: 401 x 215 x 347 mm
• Box fans: 3x 12 cm RGB
• Operating system: Windows 11
• Without operating system (-15,000 ISK)
• Win 11 PRO (+10.000kr)
• Warranty: three years
• Delivery time: 1-2 working days

What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.

• ai, machine learning, deep learning, llm, modeling (cad or similar), Linux, remote access work, flightsim, cities skylines 1 & 2. Maybe some other games, but I'm not much of a gamer, so I'm not chasing crazy graphics and fps.

What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?

I can go 4k - 6k, maybe more if it's really worth it. I'm more of a bang for buck kinda of a person. I don't want workload productivity be reduced because of a 1k shortage. I can swing it. But as I've said I'm not chasing fps on the latest games. I.e. I don't want to add a 1k for extra 10% fps. I'm ok adding 1k if it'll reduce computing time from 4 weeks to 2 weeks, or 6 weeks to 4 weeks.

When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

As soon as possible. I'm ready now but can wait a month or 2 if it will mean substantial gains in the bang-for-buck area.

What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

Negligible, I think.

Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?

NY tri-state area. Microcenter is accessible. Though I believe Newegg and b&h have better deals on some items I've been looking at, as well as having some items the Microcenter is out of stock with.

If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.

I have 3 x 35in LG ultrawide monitors with AMD freesync.

Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?

Not sure at this point. I'm into reliability.

Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)

Nothing in particular other than specified. Open to suggestions with reasons. Avoid water-cooling.*

Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

I'm interested in inwin modfree case with add-ons for its versatility and modability. I'm open to considering alternatives in eatx form factor. I don't care for lighting schemes.

Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?

I think this is negligible.
I'd like to avoid water-cooling if possible, I think.
Thank you, guys 😊

Recently I bought a setup from a friend that includes everything except a GPU and storage. It's an older CPU- i7-8700 but the price was good so I just went for it, this is what I'm thinking to complete the build. What type of bottle neck do you guys think I'm going to experience with a 4070 on this build. This is what the complete build looks like currently

A question for the knowledgeable folks here!
​
I would like a low power at idle system, with a halfway decent amount of compute power under load, that is quiet, and reasonably small form factor (but not tiny). Currently I have some old NUCs performing these duties, but they are old, long in the tooth, and thermal throttling. So what are my options here?
I think ideally I'd like a NUC, but in a bigger case that cools better, but the NUC replacement cases I have found are both expensive and designed for fanless operation, which tend to not work that well in a warm environment. The 13th gen i3 NUCs have a 15w TDP, and a decent amount of compute power, just the NUC case is kinda bad?
From what I've read, if I build my own mini ITX system (in, say, a InWin Chopin MAX, which seems like a great size/form factor), it seems unlikely I'll get below about 30w idle?
​
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
​
EDIT: These systems (two of them!) will be running inside my comms cupboard, headless, and somewhat warm. There is ventilation there, but it's not amazing.

Hi all,
Massive PC beginner here. Bought a pre built PC way back in late 2017/early 2018 and it is definitely needing an upgrade in some spots. My questions are twofold:

1. Some games are running a bit slow, as is the computer overall. Essentially, where would you go first?

2.Additionally, it only allows for one display, what would I need to change to fix that?
Here is the build: InWin 301 White Mini Tower
MSI Z370M Gaming Pro AC Socket 1151 Coffee Lake Motherboard
Intel Coffee Lake i5 8600K 6-Core 4.3GHz
Cooler Master Hyper 212X
2x Mushkin 8GB Silverline DDR4 2133MHz 1.2V (16GB)
Mushkin Triactor 3DL 250G SSD
Seagate 1TB Barracuda
MSI GTX 1060 6G Gaming X
600w 80 Plus Gold
In Australia if that makes any difference

Hi all,
Massive PC beginner here. Bought a pre built PC way back in late 2017/early 2018 and it is definitely needing an upgrade in some spots. My questions are twofold:

1. Some games are running a bit slow, as is the computer overall. Essentially, where would you go first?

2.Additionally, it only allows for one display, what would I need to change to fix that?
Here is the build: InWin 301 White Mini Tower
MSI Z370M Gaming Pro AC Socket 1151 Coffee Lake Motherboard
Intel Coffee Lake i5 8600K 6-Core 4.3GHz
Cooler Master Hyper 212X
2x Mushkin 8GB Silverline DDR4 2133MHz 1.2V (16GB)
Mushkin Triactor 3DL 250G SSD
Seagate 1TB Barracuda
MSI GTX 1060 6G Gaming X
600w 80 Plus Gold
Sorry for bad formatting, mobile Reddit is the bane of my existence.