Car interior repair kits

Non-owner here, but I’m still curious about the car. I have seen Motive Video’s upgrade path and am wondering if it makes more sense to throw in a turbo kit before doing an e85 conversion.
In your opinion, what makes sense as an upgrade path to get this car to various levels. This can be mods to the engine, but I’m especially curious about when people should consider upgrading the clutch, transfer case, injectors/fuel system, suspension, diffs, and anything else I’m missing.
If I were to buy one of these cars I would love to keep the ability to daily it, but maybe push around 400 hp and have a bit better off road and track capability.

I'm looking for something to do gig work in. I've been doing it several years and it's lucrative in my market, and honestly the biggest priority to me is not even reliability but just something I can sit in for hours with minimal body aches/pains. Something that absorbs bumps in the road well, takes turns gently, comfortable seats, etc.
I'm currently driving a 2022 Mazda 3, and if it were just a regular daily commuter I'd love it. It's fun to drive. But I don't need fun to drive anymore. I don't want to feel every bump in the road or be tossed around on each turn because the car has little body roll. And the seats are fine, but could be a little cushier. I'd also like something that just felt a little less cramped.
Honestly I'm not scared of "unreliable." When you look at the data on websites like repairpal, maintenance and repair costs don't vary as wildly as people often expect. I'm not saying I'm going to go buy some 15 year old Volkswagen, but within reason, I'm willing to sacrifice some reliability. If I got a hybrid, I'd be saving several times on gas compared to my Mazda 3 than any amount of reliability could save me.
So that's why my biggest two priorities are comfort, and mpg. I guess I said I don't need "fun" to drive, but the truth is if it can be fun without having stiffer suspension, that would be great. I want something that makes longer shifts in a vehicle more bearable, and something that's enjoyable to drive is a part of that. Comfort is just the bigger priority.
Anyways I appreciate anyone's help. I'd probably be in the market for something that's at least a few years old, probably <20k budget.

Lots of you have messaged me asking for an update on this saga. My original post can be found here: https://www.reddit.com/HOA/comments/ofzajn/hoa_tried_to_tow_my_legally_permitted_vehicle/
As of today here is what has happened:
I have worked tirelessly these last two years to explain to as many homeowners what went on between me and the HOA. Most of them knew the basic details because they were aired during the monthly HOA meeting. Many HOA members sided with me. A few didn't, and a good chunk of them couldn't care less because it didn't affect them personally.
That all changed last year with the onslaught of Hurricane Hillary. The storm did considerable damage to many of the roofs in the complex. The HOA board, led by the incompetent management company, dragged their feet when it came to performing the needed repairs.
This really opened the eyes of many homeowners to the absolute incompetence of the board. Several owners stepped up and volunteered to run for the board, and in February of this year the entire board was replaced in a landslide election. Their first item of business was to fire the management company that was responsible for trying to tow my cars, and was responsible for running up a $10,000 legal bill in the process.
As for parking permits, the new board has rescinded the previous parking rules and now there is no segregated parking. One pass for covered or uncovered parking.
I guess I about as happy now as one could be living in an HOA. The new board is filled with sane adults with no vendettas, and seem to be taking their responsibilities seriously instead of targeting homeowners with malicious BS.

My nephew recently got a Senton 4x4 550mega with the brushed motor. It came with a 7cell 8.4volt NiMh battery. Right now with his age and responsiblity level, we have no plans on giving him LiPo batteries yet, but I would like him to have an extra battery and I just happen to have a few NiMh batteries that I was using for a Tamiya kit car I built a few years ago but don't drive much. The batteries are good, but they are 6cell 7.2volt (they have ic3 connectors so no problem with that). Would there be any issue running the lower voltage battery with his 550mega set up? This is probably a dumb quesiton but I would rather get some feedback before just sticking them in his truck because I really am not all that smart when it comes to batteries. Thank you!

this '05 camry has 190k miles on it and could be mine for 2400$. the history of the car is unknown. the title is clean. there doesn't seem to be any major issues and she drives well enough. I'm not a mechanic but i have some handy guy friends and qould put money into doing repairs, but is 190 too many miles ? edit I forgot to add a picture, and am unsure how to at this point but the body is fairly nice

I have a light fixture attached to the wall of my house in my backyard that is visible from outside, I didnt modify this light fixture since I bought the house 2 years ago.
I got hit with a violation because the light bulb is uncovered, its a bare light bulb instead of looking something like this
Now if there was a rule that said lights that are outside need to be covered then that would be the end of my story, however the exact rule they claim I am violating is this:

Each owner of a condominium shall be responsible for the maintenance and repair of: (a) Residential Units. All portions of the Owner's residential Unit, including, but not limited to, the interior and exterior, roof, and foundation of the residence and the yard, other than those improvements which the Association is obligated to maintain within the Front Yard Maintenance Area

So they claim that the lack of a cover is a lack of maintenance. Is this a reasonable interpretation of this rule? The light bulb is not broken or anything, it just doesnt have a cover (which AFAIK it never did). If it isnt a reasonable interpretation, then what actions can I take to avoid getting fined?

I'm in my early 30'sF and I'm scared of my own mom.
I just moved back in with my mom in September after moving out for roughly a year, I enjoyed it very much but couldn't afford the area on my own income and a cheaper alternative was moving back in with my mom. I am in the process of getting my savings back AGAIN(I had to repair my car and my cellphone and that ate all my savings).
I am planning a vacation for September, originally my mom and I were going out of state together but due to a family member possibly having her child sooner she is hesitant now about going on the vacation with me, so I made back up plans. I was going to go out of state to visit an online friend of mine. She said 'no if you want to see him he has to come visit you, you've already flown out there twice it's his turn to visit you now'. The thing is we can do that however I can't be out late with him because I get the book thrown at me because she assumes XYZ happened(or will happen). It's insane, I'm an adult but I'm being treated like I'm a 16 year old child still! It's insane and I hate it! I enjoyed being by myself, my friend in Cali is offering to move out and live with him but he lives to far from the location that I'd be able to transfer to(and with the price of Cali gas it's not worth it).
I'm about to bite the bullet and buy the tickets but I think I'll wait till I get paid again, I haven't decided on a hotel yet as we haven't figured out exactly what we're doing quite yet once we get to that point then I can book my hotel(s).

Hello, this is my first post here, but I am looking for some help with a decal problem I am having. I have an old Revell kit #2492, Chad Little NASCAR. The decals in the kit are old, and as i out the goodyear logos on the tires, i realized that I was going to have a hard road ahead of me unless I was able to find and obtain a new, and cleaner set of decals. I know there are ways of trying to repair them by sun bleaching, but I was curious if anyone has the ability to print new decals, or if it's possible to get them, new... Furthermore, i COULD buy a factory sealed kit on ebay, but would the decals be any less yellowed in a sealed kit?

Alright so for context, I am 18 and was in an accident at the beginning of the month and my car was just deemed a total loss. From the settlement check, my parents have agreed to give me $5,000 to use either as a down payment or to cash out on a car.
My biggest dilemma with this scenario is I moved about 300 miles away for college and I come home frequently, so I need a car to be able to comfortably handle all the miles I need it to without too much in repairs, so I don't want to get a car that is too cheap and end up being fucked over with fixing things.
My current income is about $30,000 but since I haven't been building credit for very long the oldest credit line I have is my student loans which I haven't missed a payment on, but my credit score is still only around 600 and slowly increasing.
I found a car listed for about $11,000; A 2015 Mazda3 with 76k miles. The carfax looks great on it and I set up a test drive later this week but I am also hesitant as I don't want to take on a financial burden that I end up regretting. I won't have a cosigner and that worries me for the interest rates, if I can even get approved.
Insurance isn't an issue as I have spoken to my insurance and since I still have a permanent address with my parents, I can stay on that policy for around $130 a month.
From someone with more experience than me in this scene, is it worth it or not?

I just wanted to get yalls opinion, I'm a 15 year old highschooler and I'm looking for my highschool car, I'm wanting to get the 1955 ford customline I found, it's a two tone red and white, it has a amazing interior, perfect headliner and seats, but needs floor work, all glass is good, has a 272 v8, ran when parked 5 years ago, it also has 2 tiny thumb sized surface rust spots on roof, tiny thumb sized rust hole on back passenger side fender, and a tiny bit of surface rust on wheel wells, it's all tiny and ain't much of it, it currently has the original white wall tires, but needs new ones maybe, it needs a battery and fuel pump, comes with brand new carpet, some gaskets, and other parts the guy can't remember, I'd be buying it for 2500 for a guy, maybe less, what do yall think?

Hey Guys, looking for help in validating my potential set up. I am very new to this so I tried to note all my thoughts. If I didn't explicitly state it, I probably am unaware.
Scenario: LED Up lighting on ground to shine up onto wall. Can place controller anywhere. Open to multiple controllers.
Length: This is for my wedding and the venue is not yet selected (so I actually am not positive I will be allowed to do this yet but I want to plan). Let’s say 15 meters.
Wants:

• Safety. I don’t know much about electrical engineering
• Addressable RGB (maybe RGBW)
• Diffusion with no hot spots
• Bright enough to really color the walls. So I’m thinking plan for at or near 100%
• Quick to put together after prep has been done. As in I can test it at home, break it down, transport it to the venue, and set it back up easily. I’ll need to measure to be certain but internet specs say my SUV’s cargo area is 1.8 meters long. Though by doing diagonals I might be able to squeeze a bit more space out of it.
• Sound reactive

Other Thoughts:

• Thinking about what I’ll use this for after. Maybe accent lighting around a room? Might be nice to have actual whites.
• Scenario 3 Ultra Mode very closely resembles what I'm describing. https://youtu.be/Umo6jKLfwsQ?t=3408

What I currently think I need to buy:

• LED Strip
  • With this length, 24 Volt seems to be the way to go
  • Sounds like the COB is the brightest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmIcTIAlI74&t=400s
  • Waterproof isn't required
  • Depending on if I want to include whites or not
    • 24v addressable COB “720LEDs/m” RGB
    • 24v addressable COB “768LEDs/m” RGBW
    • I don’t think I really need white for this but might be nice for future use
  • White vs Black PCB
    • Since it's hidden shouldn't matter right? Maybe white would make it slightly brighter? I suspect that to be negligible.
• Controller
  • I do not want to DIY the controller
  • Dig-Uno
    • Probably not
  • Dig-Quad
    • I think this would work
  • Dig-Octa and up
    • Seems overkill and starting to seem even more complex.
  • AE+
    • This would add sound reactive
    • The touch button might be nice as at the venue I don’t know what the wifi will be like and could reduce size by not including the antenna
    • IR would be nice for same reason as touch button
    • I don’t think I need the SD card
    • I don’t understand what the 3x LED channel is so not sure if I want “Full” or “IR + MIC”
• Aluminum Profile Housing
  • 45 Degree so its angled
  • Maybe I can get something 3D printed as as stand for it so It can be raised to the height of the what’s covering it on the ground (I’m imagining the venue already has something there as the venue where I got the idea did already have something)
  • Not sure on Milky vs Clear cover
    • I think Milly might look better as it would hide the LED strip
    • I could probably buy a small pack of each and test it out. I assume it’ll be personal preference?
  • The one linked from Quin comes in 50cm sections
    • https://quinled.info/2019/01/17/importance-of-led-cooling/
    • I think I could premake this in 5m sections so that would be 10 pieces a section. This would not fit in my car but if at the very ends I don’t peel the last 3cm off from the adhesive, I could maybe leave the cover off and fold it, allowing the led strip to curve and not bend sharply
    • I would then use connectors, listed in a later section. This would be to connect the 3x 5m sections together
• Connectors
  • Could I use some sort of quick connectors to make disassembly and reassembly easier?
    • I didn’t see any on https://quinled.info/2018/10/01/tools-and-equipment/#connector-blocks
    • Was thinking something like
    • Would this make a hotspot?
• Power Supply
  • If I really want it to be capable of full brightness I’d need
    • Source
    • COB-RGB
    • COB-RGBW
    • Mean Well UHP-500 series
    • Could go with Mean Well LRS-350 if going RGBW
  • What do I do for an enclosure? I don’t like it being so exposed for both safety reasons and it looks rather unprofessional.
    • Concerned about what if there is a snag on the cable? I wouldn’t want bare wires connected to an outlet to just be laying around.
    • I’ve found this which helps some as it looks much safer to me but isnt for UHP-500 https://openbuildspartstore.com/powercase-kit/
    • Also saw many 3d printed options as well but is that safe?
• Cables
  • Data cables
    • Not sure what AWG. Since it's so short, I assume 20AWG?
  • Power injection
    • Discussed in Power Injection section but thinking 20AWG since its so short.
• Power Injection
  • There are two sections if placed in the middle but not exact middle as to remove the need to cut the 5m strips (it is sold in 5m strings if bought 5m right? It's not 5x 1m strips?).
    • COB-RGB
    • COB-RGBW
  • After doing the math here, maybe just inject at one end. Seems a whole lot simpler to do. Maybe someone on here sees a fault in that, that I do not see.

Hi all. We had a bad wind/rain storm and suffered some damage. We lost a bunch of shingles which they replaced our roof, but there was also water damage. We had water leaking into our dining room from the crown molding and behind the walls. Contractor says it’s the balcony that is causing the damage. We were told if this had been going on for some time without knowledge, worse case scenario, the outside wall of the house may need replacement as well. Between the exterior wall and the balcony we are looking at roughly $20k+, depending on severity of course.
We were approved for the wall to be replaced due to the water damage however, insurance is not covering the repair of the balcony and won’t if the exterior wall needs replacement. I am not understanding why they would fix the water damaged interior wall, but not the issue exterior. As well as, why not the balcony. It’s going to just leak back into the wall if not corrected. We just don’t have the funds or the means to cover the work. Has anyone encountered this before? Any advice on how to get both covered? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

About to pull the trigger on a deal for a certified x3 m40i fully loaded except for leather and ventilated seats. Black with red interior.
Car has 1k miles and will close for $60k plus tax and tag.
I assume it’s a good deal but haven’t bought since my 2015 M235i.
The other car I’m looking at is a certified 23 m40i with 13k miles fully loaded except for parking assist plus. Brooklyn grey and black interior. $59k otd.
I like the colors better on the 23 but can’t get past the deal for the 24.
Looking for a gut check.
Thanks!!

So I recently replaced all my bulbs on my car with LED ones. Got turn signals/tail light bulbs off Amazon.
I have a sequential tail light kit, so I had a modified flasher for the incandescent bulbs. That one is incompatible with LEDs however, it would just buzz real fast when I tried using my turn signals with the LEDs installed.
So I bought the modified flasher designed for LEDs. This one also just buzzes if the car is running or if my headlight switch is pulled out. If the engine is off and the lights aren't on, the flasher works fine. But engine running or lights on makes it buzz.
Is this a problem with the flasher or my setup? I have a replacement flasher on the way, just in case it is the flasher thats the problem. But if it isn't, what do I do to slow down my turn signals? I don't really understand why they don't work right, if the flasher is designed for LEDs.
The flasher that was installed when I bought the car (no idea if its aftermarket or not, looks pretty stock) works fine but blinks at the factory speed, which is too fast in my opinion. That flasher does not care if there are LEDs or incandescent bulbs installed, it just flashes at the same speed regardless.
I'm tired of them blinking this fast lol, doesn't look very good with the sequential kit. It works, but I'd like to slow it down. And somehow the flasher designed for LEDs doesn't like the LEDs I have.

I have a 2017 1500 with a l83 that has 103,000 miles on it. In one day my transmission blew up and my lifter collapsed. I paid for a transmission job that when we discovered a lifter collapse. No it wasn’t giving me signs. Total repair bill is 14k. $5k for tranny and 9k to rebuild engine. I can only really afford one so I kid for the tranny. Truck has been sitting for 4 weeks and now I have a comission check coming in. I want to rebuild the l83. The goal is to focus on giving it a peep in its step, but not over do it to maintain the drive ability (I know pick a side reliability or performance). I was wondering while I’m pulling the engine if I’m missing anything that I should do while I’m in there.
Parts list:
L83 5.3L Engine (199-L83 Cylinder Heads) Reuse Customer Valves TSP .660" Dual Valve Spring Kit w/ Titanium Retainers L83 Stage 1 V2 Camshaft w/ +10% Fuel Lobe: 212/224 .610"/.610" 112 LSA, 108 ICL (25-TSPL83V2-Stg1) 7.850" 3/8" LT1 Phaser Install Tool & 0 Degree Lock Out (25-PhaserTool & 25-0DEGPL) Include VVT Cam Bolt for 2014-18 LT (28-12681018) Include TSP Trunnion Kit (#25-TSPTrunnionUpg-KIT) Texas Speed LS/LT LS2 Style Timing Chain by IWIS (25-TSP-SR60-2)
AFM Delete Kit:
DOD Hole Plug 2014+ LT1 Head Bolt Kit GM/Delphi LS7 Style Lifter, Set of 16 TSP OE Style Gen 5 6.2 or 5.3 Head Gasket (Each) 2014+ LT1 Stingray Valley Cover Gasket GM LS1/LS6/LT1 Wet Sump Balancer Bolt LT1 Stingray Exhaust Manifold Gasket Each GM LT1 & 2014-2018 L83/L86 Cam Phaser Bolt / Valve TSP LS/LT Front Crank Seal GM LS3 Lifter Trays - Set of 4 Water Pump Gasket 2014+ LT1
Other Bolt one: 6.2l intake manifold and Throttle Body Long headers Borla exhaust Aftermarket torque converter Aftermarket drive shaft
I have never rebuilt an engine before, always wanted to learn, I will probably mess this up, but wanted to see if anyone can give me feedback back. I will be sending the truck off to be tuned by a pro, if anyone has a dfw guy let me know.

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/hlk0dln
Salomon QUEST 4 GORE-TEX (Magnet/Black/Quarry, Size 11) - $120

• Used but great condition with original box
• Purchased 2 years ago and used them on a couple of hikes before forgetting about them in the closet, naturally have dirt and a few scuffs on the sole but otherwise good to go
• I personally sized up for a slightly looser fit when buying these, I'm typically a 10.5 in sneakers
• Cats shown for scale
• Selling for $120 shipped through PayPal F&F

3x Duramag AR-15 .223/5.56 30rd Stainless Steel Magazines w/ Magpul L-Plates - $45

• Magazines A1 and A2 were only shot once each, magazine A3 is new
• These are disassembled parts kits, also rebuild or repair kits, for the magazines which include the magazine bodies, springs, followers, Magpul L-Plates and original base plates; they can be used to repair existing magazines or be assembled into functional magazines where legal
• Pictures included of a normal magazine for demonstration purposes
• No ban states, except Maryland where parts kits are legal
• Selling all three kits for $45 shipped through PayPal F&F

Flyye SAF Admin Panel (Ranger Green) - $20

• Excellent condition
• Panel has a velcro closure compartment and a flapped pouch for Glock 17 mags or similasmaller items; panel itself is 3 molle columns wide
• Selling for $20 shipped through PayPal F&F

HSGI Micro Grip Belt Panel (Loop/Medium) - $20

• Used but great condition pad
• Very nice pad that makes two-piece belts into padded belt, swapped out the medium for a large just to get more engagement area
• Panel is 26.5" long so works for medium belts but perfect on small ones (based on the large panel on my medium belt now)
• Selling for $20 shipped through PayPal F&F