Introduction

Modern Advancements III came out swinging hard at tuners with a lot of data.
Erik Cortina, a popular Youtuber and F-Class competitor (with some excellent performances) is a proponent and driving factor behind the adoption of tuners and tuner-brakes in F-Class and produces his own combination tuner-brake.
Gavintoobe, another popular Youtuber, also promoted the EC tuner-brake and the community responded loudly in favor of them.
So, some high performing competitors believe in them, and another high performing competitor and ballistician has concrete contradictory results.
Neat thing about science is that it is supposed to be repeatable. So let's repeat it.

The Process

Gavintoobe says he has never had to go past the first 0-12 marks to find a good shooting node.
Erik Cortina says that you should go up the range by every interval of 2. He also says that a good shot should be able to find a node by only shooting 2 shots per interval.
Luckily, I am a good shot.
And I have a load that produces consistently mediocre results.
And it is easy to measure.
And I have a EC tuner brake that was graciously lent to me by Reloader300WM.
And I have an indoor 100 yard range to use.
And I have a high precision, pseudo-benchrest rifle to test with.
And it is notoriously picky and subject to the magic of 'harmonics'.
And I have lots of components to test with.
Perfect storm for some experiments.

The Experiment

Rifle

• Remington 700 5R donor action
• PTG PPC bolt
• 30" Criterion MTU contour 6.5 Grendel prefit, 1-8 twist
• Jewell HVR trigger
• Foundation Centurion stock
• ZCO ZC527 optic
• TBAC bipod
• Protektor leather rear bag

Load

• 6.5 Grendel
• 2.058" OAL
• 100gr Lapua Cutting Edge bullets
• 34gr CFE 223
• CCI450 Primers
• Fireformed Hornady brass

From my suppressor testing, my expected precision should be around 1.1 MOA 5 shot (from an 8x5), 1.35 MOA 10 shot.
All of my results were better than that but not by a crazy amount.

Range and target setup

• Shot at 100 yards indoors
• Shot from a rubber topped bench
• Using 5-diamond sight-in target with single point of aim per trial
• Adjusting windage and elevation on turrets to shift the POI step-to-step.
• First steps were a little inconsistent, but quickly settled on 0.7 MIL left/right or up/down per step to move the POI around and still get clean samples
• Targets were marked on the target board in Sharpie as I went, so please forgive my handwriting

Procedure

Step 1: Tuner weight was removed from the brake completely. 10 shots were fired to get a baseline reading.
Step 2: New POA was identified and tuner weight was reinstalled at baseline setting of 0. 2 shots were taken.
Step 3: Step 2 is repeated at increasing intervals out to 12.
Step 4: Weight was reset to 0. Steps 2-3 are repeated on a new POA.
Step 5: The best and most consistent setting was selected between the two trials. 10 shots were taken at the POA from Step 1, new POI.
In total, 48 shots are necessary, though 50 were fired due to the same setting being tested an extra time by accident.

Results with backing target

The node chosen to do the final 10 shot stack-up was the 0 position based on it having the lowest dispersion, smallest vertical and horizontal POI displacement, and most consistency between the two trials.
Despite having a clear winner in that procedure, a point dramatically better than any other setting... when expanded to even modest sample sizes, those winning results vanish into thin air.

Conclusions

With this limited test, the following observations were made:

1. There was little correlation between trials. Frequently, the results from one trial contradicted the other. The conclusion to be drawn here is that being a good shot and taking a few number of shots does not net good, trustworthy results. But we already knew that. I don't know why EC thinks or says otherwise.
   
2. There was abnormal behavior in the tuner testing not observed in the 10 shot groups. Bizarre POI shifts in different directions. I speculate this is due to the tuner weight clamping throwing the results sometimes. The set screws have to be pretty tight to keep the tuner from being able to shift. But that's just speculation. Maybe the tuner is able to affect harmonics or something else magical. If so, it seems to only affect POI, not dispersion.
   
3. The tuned load per the recommendations from Youtube did not perform better than not tuning the load. It performed worse, but that is more likely just chance.
   

Alternative explanations:

• Maybe no tuning weight was somehow tuning optimal by chance.
• Maybe it is impossible to improve the Lapua Cutting Edge load by harmonics

What's next?

Maybe I try more settings?
Laugh about it?

Introduction

Modern Advancements III came out swinging hard at tuners with a lot of data.
Erik Cortina, a popular Youtuber and F-Class competitor (with some excellent performances) is a proponent and driving factor behind the adoption of tuners and tuner-brakes in F-Class and produces his own combination tuner-brake.
Gavintoobe, another popular Youtuber, also promoted the EC tuner-brake and the community responded loudly in favor of them.
So, some high performing competitors believe in them, and another high performing competitor and ballistician has concrete contradictory results.
Neat thing about science is that it is supposed to be repeatable. So let's repeat it.

The Process

Gavintoobe says he has never had to go past the first 0-12 marks to find a good shooting node.
Erik Cortina says that you should go up the range by every interval of 2. He also says that a good shot should be able to find a node by only shooting 2 shots per interval.
Luckily, I am a good shot.
And I have a load that produces consistently mediocre results.
And it is easy to measure.
And I have a EC tuner brake that was graciously lent to me by Reloader300WM.
And I have an indoor 100 yard range to use.
And I have a high precision, pseudo-benchrest rifle to test with.
And it is notoriously picky and subject to the magic of 'harmonics'.
And I have lots of components to test with.
Perfect storm for some experiments.

The Experiment

Rifle

• Remington 700 5R donor action
• PTG PPC bolt
• 30" Criterion MTU contour 6.5 Grendel prefit, 1-8 twist
• Jewell HVR trigger
• Foundation Centurion stock
• ZCO ZC527 optic
• TBAC bipod
• Protektor leather rear bag

Load

• 6.5 Grendel
• 2.058" OAL
• 100gr Lapua Cutting Edge bullets
• 34gr CFE 223
• CCI450 Primers
• Fireformed Hornady brass

From my suppressor testing, my expected precision should be around 1.1 MOA 5 shot (from an 8x5), 1.35 MOA 10 shot.
All of my results were better than that but not by a crazy amount.

Range and target setup

• Shot at 100 yards indoors
• Shot from a rubber topped bench
• Using 5-diamond sight-in target with single point of aim per trial
• Adjusting windage and elevation on turrets to shift the POI step-to-step.
• First steps were a little inconsistent, but quickly settled on 0.7 MIL left/right or up/down per step to move the POI around and still get clean samples
• Targets were marked on the target board in Sharpie as I went, so please forgive my handwriting

Procedure

Step 1: Tuner weight was removed from the brake completely. 10 shots were fired to get a baseline reading.
Step 2: New POA was identified and tuner weight was reinstalled at baseline setting of 0. 2 shots were taken.
Step 3: Step 2 is repeated at increasing intervals out to 12.
Step 4: Weight was reset to 0. Steps 2-3 are repeated on a new POA.
Step 5: The best and most consistent setting was selected between the two trials. 10 shots were taken at the POA from Step 1, new POI.
In total, 48 shots are necessary, though 50 were fired due to the same setting being tested an extra time by accident.

Results with backing target

The node chosen to do the final 10 shot stack-up was the 0 position based on it having the lowest dispersion, smallest vertical and horizontal POI displacement, and most consistency between the two trials.
Despite having a clear winner in that procedure, a point dramatically better than any other setting... when expanded to even modest sample sizes, those winning results vanish into thin air.

Conclusions

With this limited test, the following observations were made:

1. There was little correlation between trials. Frequently, the results from one trial contradicted the other. The conclusion to be drawn here is that being a good shot and taking a few number of shots does not net good, trustworthy results. But we already knew that. I don't know why EC thinks or says otherwise.
   
2. There was abnormal behavior in the tuner testing not observed in the 10 shot groups. Bizarre POI shifts in different directions. I speculate this is due to the tuner weight clamping throwing the results sometimes. The set screws have to be pretty tight to keep the tuner from being able to shift. But that's just speculation. Maybe the tuner is able to affect harmonics or something else magical. If so, it seems to only affect POI, not dispersion.
   
3. The tuned load per the recommendations from Youtube did not perform better than not tuning the load. It performed worse, but that is more likely just chance.
   

Alternative explanations:

• Maybe no tuning weight was somehow tuning optimal by chance.
• Maybe it is impossible to improve the Lapua Cutting Edge load by harmonics

What's next?

Maybe I try more settings?
Laugh about it?

Introduction

Modern Advancements III came out swinging hard at tuners with a lot of data.
Erik Cortina, a popular Youtuber and F-Class competitor (with some excellent performances) is a proponent and driving factor behind the adoption of tuners and tuner-brakes in F-Class and produces his own combination tuner-brake.
Gavintoobe, another popular Youtuber, also promoted the EC tuner-brake and the community responded loudly in favor of them.
So, some high performing competitors believe in them, and another high performing competitor and ballistician has concrete contradictory results.
Neat thing about science is that it is supposed to be repeatable. So let's repeat it.

The Process

Gavintoobe says he has never had to go past the first 0-12 marks to find a good shooting node.
Erik Cortina says that you should go up the range by every interval of 2. He also says that a good shot should be able to find a node by only shooting 2 shots per interval.
Luckily, I am a good shot.
And I have a load that produces consistently mediocre results.
And it is easy to measure.
And I have a EC tuner brake that was graciously lent to me by Reloader300WM.
And I have an indoor 100 yard range to use.
And I have a high precision, pseudo-benchrest rifle to test with.
And it is notoriously picky and subject to the magic of 'harmonics'.
And I have lots of components to test with.
Perfect storm for some experiments.

The Experiment

Rifle

• Remington 700 5R donor action
• PTG PPC bolt
• 30" Criterion MTU contour 6.5 Grendel prefit, 1-8 twist
• Jewell HVR trigger
• Foundation Centurion stock
• ZCO ZC527 optic
• TBAC bipod
• Protektor leather rear bag

Load

• 6.5 Grendel
• 2.058" OAL
• 100gr Lapua Cutting Edge bullets
• 34gr CFE 223
• CCI450 Primers
• Fireformed Hornady brass

From my suppressor testing, my expected precision should be around 1.1 MOA 5 shot (from an 8x5), 1.35 MOA 10 shot.
All of my results were better than that but not by a crazy amount.

Range and target setup

• Shot at 100 yards indoors
• Shot from a rubber topped bench
• Using 5-diamond sight-in target with single point of aim per trial
• Adjusting windage and elevation on turrets to shift the POI step-to-step.
• First steps were a little inconsistent, but quickly settled on 0.7 MIL left/right or up/down per step to move the POI around and still get clean samples
• Targets were marked on the target board in Sharpie as I went, so please forgive my handwriting

Procedure

Step 1: Tuner weight was removed from the brake completely. 10 shots were fired to get a baseline reading.
Step 2: New POA was identified and tuner weight was reinstalled at baseline setting of 0. 2 shots were taken.
Step 3: Step 2 is repeated at increasing intervals out to 12.
Step 4: Weight was reset to 0. Steps 2-3 are repeated on a new POA.
Step 5: The best and most consistent setting was selected between the two trials. 10 shots were taken at the POA from Step 1, new POI.
In total, 48 shots are necessary, though 50 were fired due to the same setting being tested an extra time by accident.

Results with backing target

The node chosen to do the final 10 shot stack-up was the 0 position based on it having the lowest dispersion, smallest vertical and horizontal POI displacement, and most consistency between the two trials.

Conclusions

With this limited test, the following observations were made:

1. There was little correlation between trials. Frequently, the results from one trial contradicted the other. The conclusion to be drawn here is that being a good shot and taking a few number of shots does not net good, trustworthy results. But we already knew that. I don't know why EC thinks or says otherwise.
   
2. There was abnormal behavior in the tuner testing not observed in the 10 shot groups. Bizarre POI shifts in different directions. I speculate this is due to the tuner weight clamping throwing the results sometimes. The set screws have to be pretty tight to keep the tuner from being able to shift. But that's just speculation. Maybe the tuner is able to affect harmonics or something else magical. If so, it seems to only affect POI, not dispersion.
   
3. The tuned load per the recommendations from Youtube did not perform better than not tuning the load. It performed worse, but that is more likely just chance.
   

Alternative explanations:

• Maybe no tuning weight was somehow tuning optimal by chance.
• Maybe it is impossible to improve the Lapua Cutting Edge load by harmonics

What's next?

Maybe I try more settings?
Laugh about it?
Probably go to sleep.

So I've managed to restore a total basket case of a Performa 5400, and fill up all of the expansion slots thanks to some saved searches on eBay and complete disregard for my financial wellbeing. I am loving it for old audio software and a bit of casual gaming. The system currently has:

• Composite AV Input Board
• TV Tuner
• 72 MB RAM
• Composite video output board
• IR remote control
• CSII Ethernet Board
• Sonnet Tango PCI USB/Firewire Card
• Sonnet Crescendo G3 300 Mhz L2 CPU upgrade
• 32GB Solid State IDE hard drive with partitions for system 7 / 8 / 9
• Replacement battery holder with 3 x AAA Lithium batteries
• Edirol UA-25 USB Audio Interface

I could have purchased a nice M1 iMac for less I'm sure... anyway I'm wondering what's next? I was thinking of getting a 2 slot PCI riser from a 6400 and trying to add a GPU? Or perhaps a faster ATA or SATA controller to increase disk speed? Or should I move on to the next project (an Apple II+)? What shenanigans have others got up to with their PPC Performas?

 Hey. 

Asus Crosshair VIII Extreme X570 5900X, Corsair 850w PSU, Corsair Vengence 128GB RAM 3600. PCIEX16_1 slot = ASUS GeForce GT 730 Silent - Nvidia PCIEX16_2 slot = Intel 10Gbps NIC M2_1 (under oled display) = Samsung SSD M2_2 (middle slot) = not in use M2_3 (bottom slot) = Samsung SSD DIMM.2 (port 2) = Samsung SSD
When I switch the BIOS setting to PCIEX16_1 + PCIE16_2 = GPU works + Add-in card Intel 10Gbps works.
When BIOS setting set to PCIEX16_1 + M2_2 + M2_3 = GPU + M2_3 NMVE SSD work.
When BIOS setting set to PCIEX16_1 + PCIEX16_2 + M2_3 = GPU + Intel 10Gbps >> M2_3 NMVE does not work/detected.
I have tried changing the PCIE GEN1/GEN2/GEN3/GEN4 on the specific ports. Makes no difference.
Can someone please advise on what settings I should be using? Both GPU + Intel NIC are PCIE 3.0 cards. All SSDs are Samasung 980 PCIE 4.0. All components tested on Asus Dark Hero before hand. Repeat reminder, setting PCIEX16_1 + M2_2 + M2_3 = GPU + M2_3 NMVE SSD work. Physically the port the does work. Seems like some sort of settings issue.
BIOS export below. 0801 BIOS version - latest as of yesterday.

[2022/08/25 02:03:49] Ai Overclock Tuner [D.O.C.P. Standard] D.O.C.P. [D.O.C.P DDR4-3597 18-22-22-42-1.35V] BCLK Frequency [100.0000] Memory Frequency [DDR4-3600MHz] FCLK Frequency [1800MHz] Core Performance Boost [Enabled] CPU Core Ratio [Auto] Core VID [Auto] CCX0 Ratio [Auto] CCX0 Ratio [Auto] Dynamic OC Switcher [Auto] TPU [Keep Current Settings] Performance Bias [None] PBO Fmax Enhancer [Disabled] Precision Boost Overdrive [Disabled] Precision Boost Overdrive Scalar [Auto] Curve Optimizer [Auto] Max CPU Boost Clock Override [Auto] Platform Thermal Throttle Limit [Auto] DRAM CAS# Latency [18] Trcdrd [22] Trcdwr [22] DRAM RAS# PRE Time [22] DRAM RAS# ACT Time [42] Trc [Auto] TrrdS [Auto] TrrdL [Auto] Tfaw [Auto] TwtrS [Auto] TwtrL [Auto] Twr [Auto] Trcpage [Auto] TrdrdScl [Auto] TwrwrScl [Auto] Trfc [Auto] Trfc2 [Auto] Trfc4 [Auto] Tcwl [Auto] Trtp [Auto] Trdwr [Auto] Twrrd [Auto] TwrwrSc [Auto] TwrwrSd [Auto] TwrwrDd [Auto] TrdrdSc [Auto] TrdrdSd [Auto] TrdrdDd [Auto] Tcke [Auto] ProcODT [Auto] Cmd2T [Auto] Gear Down Mode [Auto] Power Down Enable [Auto] RttNom [Auto] RttWr [Auto] RttPark [Auto] MemAddrCmdSetup [Auto] MemCsOdtSetup [Auto] MemCkeSetup [Auto] MemCadBusClkDrvStren [Auto] MemCadBusAddrCmdDrvStren [Auto] MemCadBusCsOdtDrvStren [Auto] MemCadBusCkeDrvStren [Auto] Mem Over Clock Fail Count [Auto] Voltage Monitor [Die Sense] CPU Load-line Calibration [Auto] CPU Current Capability [Auto] Core Voltage Suspension [Auto] CPU VRM Switching Frequency [Auto] VRM Spread Spectrum [Auto] CPU Power Phase Control [Auto] CPU Power Thermal Control [120] VDDSOC Load-line Calibration [Auto] VDDSOC Current Capability [Auto] VDDSOC Switching Frequency [Auto] VDDSOC Phase Control [Auto] DRAM Current Capability [100%] DRAM Power Phase Control [Extreme] DRAM Switching Frequency [Auto] CPU Core Current Telemetry [Auto] CPU SOC Current Telemetry [Auto] Force OC Mode Disable [Disabled] SB Clock Spread Spectrum [Auto] VTTDDR Voltage [Auto] VPP_MEM Voltage [Auto] DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA [Auto] DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB [Auto] VDDP Voltage [Auto] 1.8V Standby Voltage [Auto] CPU 3.3v AUX [Auto] 1.2V SB Voltage [Auto] DRAM R1 Tune [Auto] DRAM R2 Tune [Auto] PCIE Tune R1 [Auto] PCIE Tune R2 [Auto] PLL Tune R1 [Auto] PLL reference voltage [Auto] T Offset [Auto] Sense MI Skew [Auto] Sense MI Offset [Auto] Promontory presence [Auto] Clock Amplitude [Auto] CPU Core Voltage [Auto] CPU SOC Voltage [Auto] DRAM Voltage [1.35000] VDDG CCD Voltage Control [Auto] VDDG IOD Voltage Control [Auto] CLDO VDDP Voltage [Auto] 1.00V SB Voltage [Auto] 1.8V PLL Voltage [Auto] Security Device Support [Enable] SHA-1 PCR Bank [Disabled] SHA256 PCR Bank [Enabled] Pending operation [None] Platform Hierarchy [Enabled] Storage Hierarchy [Enabled] Endorsement Hierarchy [Enabled] TPM 2.0 UEFI Spec Version [TCG_2] Physical Presence Spec Version [1.3] Disable Block Sid [Disabled] AMD fTPM switch [Enabled] Erase fTPM NV for factory reset [Disabled] PSS Support [Enabled] PPC Adjustment [PState 0] NX Mode [Enabled] SVM Mode [Enabled] SMT Mode [Auto] Core Leveling Mode [Automatic mode] CCD Control [Auto] SATA Port Enable [Enabled] SATA Mode [AHCI] NVMe RAID mode [Disabled] SMART Self Test [Auto] Hot Plug [Disabled] Hot Plug [Disabled] Hot Plug [Disabled] Hot Plug [Disabled] When system is in working state [All On] Q-Code LED Function [POST Code Only] When system is in sleep, hibernate or soft off states [All On] When system is in working state [On] When system is in sleep, hibernate or soft off states [On] 10G LAN Card [Enabled] Intel LAN Controller [Auto] Asmedia USB 3.2 Controller [Enabled] ASM1074 Controller [Enabled] Wi-Fi Controller [Enabled] CPU PCIE Configuration Mode [PCIEX16_1 + M.2_2 + M.2_3] Bluetooth Controller [Enabled] USB Audio [Enabled] ASMedia Storage Controller [Enabled] Windows Hot-plug Notification [Disabled] ASPM Support [Disabled] USB power delivery in Soft Off state (S5) [Enabled] PCIEX16_1 Mode [GEN 3] PCIEX16_2 Mode [GEN 3] PCIEX1 Mode [Auto] M.2_1 Link Mode [Auto] M.2_2 Link Mode [Auto] M.2_3 Link Mode [GEN 4] DIMM.2_1 Link Mode [GEN 4] DIMM.2_2 Link Mode [GEN 4] SB Link Mode [GEN 4] ErP Ready [Disabled] Restore AC Power Loss [Power Off] Power On By PCI-E [Disabled] Power On By RTC [Disabled] Above 4G Decoding [Enabled] Resize BAR Support [Disabled] SR-IOV Support [Enabled] Legacy USB Support [Enabled] XHCI Hand-off [Enabled] SanDisk Extreme 0001 [Auto] USB Device Enable [Enabled] U32G2_2 [Enabled] U32G2_3 [Enabled] U32G2_4 [Enabled] U32G2_7 [Enabled] U32G2_8 [Enabled] U32G2_10 [Enabled] Network Stack [Disabled] Device [N/A] CPU Temperature [Monitor] CPU Package Temperature [Monitor] MotherBoard Temperature [Monitor] VRM Temperature [Monitor] Chipset Temperature [Monitor] T_Sensor Temperature [Ignore] Water In T Sensor Temperature [Ignore] Water Out T Sensor Temperature [Ignore] WB In T Sensor Temperature [Ignore] WB Out T Sensor Temperature [Ignore] CPU Fan Speed [Monitor] CPU Optional Fan Speed [Monitor] Chassis Fan 1 Speed [Ignore] Chassis Fan 2 Speed [Monitor] Radiator Fan 1 Speed [Ignore] Radiator Fan 2 Speed [Ignore] Water Pump+ 1 Speed [Ignore] Water Pump+ 2 Speed [Ignore] Flow Rate [Ignore] WB Flow Rate [Ignore] CPU Core Voltage [Monitor] 12V Voltage [Monitor] 5V Voltage [Monitor] 3.3V Voltage [Monitor] DRAM Voltage [Monitor] CPU Core Current [Monitor] AI Cooling [Enabled] HYDRANODE Fan Association [Enabled] CPU Fan Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] CPU Fan Profile [Standard] CPU Fan Step Up [0 sec] CPU Fan Step Down [0 sec] CPU Fan Speed Low Limit [200 RPM] Chassis Fan 1 Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] Chassis Fan 1 Profile [Standard] Chassis Fan 1 Q-Fan Source [CPU] Chassis Fan 1 Step Up [0 sec] Chassis Fan 1 Step Down [0 sec] Chassis Fan 1 Speed Low Limit [200 RPM] Chassis Fan 2 Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] Chassis Fan 2 Profile [Standard] Chassis Fan 2 Q-Fan Source [CPU] Chassis Fan 2 Step Up [0 sec] Chassis Fan 2 Step Down [0 sec] Chassis Fan 2 Speed Low Limit [200 RPM] Radiator Fan 1 Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] Radiator Fan 1 Profile [Standard] Radiator Fan 1 Q-Fan Source [CPU] Radiator Fan 1 Step Up [0 sec] Radiator Fan 1 Step Down [0 sec] Radiator Fan 1 Speed Low Limit [200 RPM] Radiator Fan 2 Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] Radiator Fan 2 Profile [Standard] Radiator Fan 2 Q-Fan Source [CPU] Radiator Fan 2 Step Up [0 sec] Radiator Fan 2 Step Down [0 sec] Radiator Fan 2 Speed Low Limit [200 RPM] Water Pump+ 1 Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] Water Pump+ 1 Profile [Full Speed] Water Pump+ 2 Q-Fan Control [Auto Detect] Water Pump+ 2 Profile [Full Speed] Above 4GB MMIO Limit [39bit (512GB)] Fast Boot [Enabled] Next Boot after AC Power Loss [Fast Boot] Boot Logo Display [Auto] Bootup NumLock State [On] POST Delay Time [3 sec] Wait For 'F1' If Error [Enabled] Option ROM Messages [Force BIOS] Interrupt 19 Capture [Disabled] Setup Mode [Advanced Mode] Launch CSM [Disabled] OS Type [Other OS] AMI Native NVMe Driver Support [Enabled] Publish HII Resources [Disabled] Flexkey [Reset] Setup Animator [Disabled] Load from Profile [1] Profile Name [standard1] Save to Profile [1] DIMM Slot Number [DIMM_A1] Download & Install MyASUS service & app [Disabled] Download & Install ARMOURY CRATE app [Disabled] CPU Frequency [0] CPU Voltage [0] CCD Control [Auto] Core control [Auto] SMT Control [Auto] Overclock [Auto] Power Down Enable [Auto] Cmd2T [Auto] Gear Down Mode [Auto] CAD Bus Timing User Controls [Auto] CAD Bus Drive Strength User Controls [Auto] Data Bus Configuration User Controls [Auto] Infinity Fabric Frequency and Dividers [Auto] Precision Boost Overdrive [Auto] LN2 Mode [Auto] SoC/Uncore OC Mode [Disabled] VDDP Voltage Control [Auto] VDDG Voltage Control [Auto] NUMA nodes per socket [Auto] LCLK Frequency Control [Auto] LCLK DPM [Auto] LCLK DPM Enhanced PCIe Detection [Auto] Custom Pstate0 [Auto] L1 Stream HW Prefetcher [Auto] L2 Stream HW Prefetcher [Auto] Core Watchdog Timer Enable [Auto] Core Performance Boost [Auto] Global C-state Control [Auto] Power Supply Idle Control [Auto] SEV ASID Count [Auto] SEV-ES ASID Space Limit Control [Auto] Streaming Stores Control [Auto] Local APIC Mode [Auto] ACPI _CST C1 Declaration [Auto] MCA error thresh enable [Auto] PPIN Opt-in [Auto] Fast Short REP MOVSB [Enabled] Enhanced REP MOVSB/STOSB [Enabled] IBS hardware workaround [Auto] DRAM scrub time [Auto] Poison scrubber control [Auto] Redirect scrubber control [Auto] Redirect scrubber limit [Auto] NUMA nodes per socket [Auto] Memory interleaving [Auto] Memory interleaving size [Auto] 1TB remap [Auto] DRAM map inversion [Auto] ACPI SRAT L3 Cache As NUMA Domain [Auto] ACPI SLIT Distance Control [Auto] ACPI SLIT remote relative distance [Auto] GMI encryption control [Auto] xGMI encryption control [Auto] CAKE CRC perf bounds Control [Auto] 4-link xGMI max speed [Auto] 3-link xGMI max speed [Auto] xGMI TXEQ Mode [Auto] PcsCG control [Auto] Disable DF to external downstream IP SyncFloodPropagation [Auto] Disable DF sync flood propagation [Auto] CC6 memory region encryption [Auto] Memory Clear [Auto] Overclock [Auto] Power Down Enable [Auto] Disable Burst/Postponed Refresh [Auto] DRAM Maximum Activate Count [Auto] Cmd2T [Auto] Gear Down Mode [Auto] CAD Bus Timing User Controls [Auto] CAD Bus Drive Strength User Controls [Auto] Data Bus Configuration User Controls [Auto] Data Poisoning [Auto] DRAM Post Package Repair [Default] RCD Parity [Auto] DRAM Address Command Parity Retry [Auto] Write CRC Enable [Auto] DRAM Write CRC Enable and Retry Limit [Auto] Disable Memory Error Injection [True] DRAM ECC Symbol Size [Auto] DRAM ECC Enable [Auto] DRAM UECC Retry [Auto] TSME [Auto] Data Scramble [Auto] DFE Read Training [Auto] FFE Write Training [Auto] PMU Pattern Bits Control [Auto] MR6VrefDQ Control [Auto] CPU Vref Training Seed Control [Auto] Chipselect Interleaving [Auto] BankGroupSwap [Auto] BankGroupSwapAlt [Auto] Address Hash Bank [Auto] Address Hash CS [Auto] Address Hash Rm [Auto] SPD Read Optimization [Enabled] MBIST Enable [Disabled] Pattern Select [PRBS] Pattern Length(VMR) [6] Aggressor Channel [1 Aggressor Channel] Aggressor Static Lane Control [Disabled] Target Static Lane Control [Disabled] Worst Case Margin Granularity [Per Chip Select] Read Voltage Sweep Step Size [1] Read Timing Sweep Step Size [1] Write Voltage Sweep Step Size [1] Write Timing Sweep Step Size [1] IOMMU [Enabled] RTM Margining Support [Auto] DMA Protection [Auto] DMAr Support [Auto] Precision Boost Overdrive [Auto] Precision Boost Overdrive Scalar [Auto] FCLK Frequency [Auto] SOC OVERCLOCK VID [0] UCLK DIV1 MODE [Auto] VDDP Voltage Control [Auto] VDDG Voltage Control [Auto] SoC/Uncore OC Mode [Auto] LN2 Mode [Auto] ACS Enable [Auto] PCIe ARI Support [Auto] PCIe ARI Enumeration [Auto] PCIe Ten Bit Tag Support [Auto] cTDP Control [Auto] EfficiencyModeEn [Auto] Package Power Limit Control [Auto] APBDIS [Auto] DF Cstates [Auto] CPPC [Auto] CPPC Preferred Cores [Auto] NBIO DPM Control [Auto] Early Link Speed [Auto] Presence Detect Select mode [Auto] Preferred IO [Auto] CV test [Auto] Loopback Mode [Auto] SRIS [Auto] Data Link Feature Exchange [Disabled] Thunderbolt Support [Enabled ] Thunderbolt Security Level [No Security] Thunderbolt MMIO Resource [Full Size] Thunderbolt Wake Up Command [GO2SX Command] 

Hey cars. I have a 2015 Ecoboost Mustang, and I'd like to upgrade my exhaust to this Borla Atak catback.
I don't have access to a lift, and I've never done this sort of thing before. I can get the car up on jack stands, though. So:

• Can I safely do this installation, alone?
• Should I be able to use commonly-available tools?
• This car has been driven in Michigan winters. Am I going to run into issues like "oh shit the last bolt is rusted in place, oh no it snapped off" - like, what could go wrong here, and what is the likelihood that it will?

It all looks easy enough on YouTube, but going into this without any sort of backup plan feels a little like working without a net, so I'm a little hesitant.
And lastly: if I should pay to get this done professionally, can I take it to any reputable shop? Should I go to a tuner? How much should I expect to pay?
Thanks!

I have an electric guitar which I want to record, but

• I don't have an amp/guitar processor, nor do I have the budget for it :(
• I can't afford an audio interface.
• Even used amps/processors/interfaces are out of my budget.

My laptop has a combined headphone jack (Stereo output + mono input, like in most of the phones), so I bought a splitter like this which gave me dedicated headphone output and a mic input. I used a 1/4" to 3.5mm converter, ran an aux cable to the microphone input, connected the 1/4" to guitar and 3.5 into the splitter, and voila, I can record my guitar (yaay!). However, the output from guitar is quite low, maybe because it has passive pickups.
I stumbled up on this video on YouTube, and I thought - the components aren't that expensive, and the guitar sounds decent IMO. I want to try it out but I have NO experience with electronics, however I'm willing to learn.
TBH the amount of soldering required sort of scares me, so I was searching for some DIY kits. I stumbled upon this Class D Digital Amplifier which costs 190 INR. Quite cheap, and well within my budget. It has... (the hole thingy for soldering leads...) so I wouldn't have to fumble with a breadboard. It has inputs (L+R+ground), a stereo output rated at 3 Watts and needs 5V to run. Also, it has a PM8403 diode vs the LM386 recommended in the video, however my expert intuiton cough google search cough told me it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
SO here are a few of my questions which my.. expert intuition couldn't find a clear answer for -

• Can I use this to make a guitar preamp?
• Since I'll be connecting this to my laptops' (and maybe my phones') combined jack, will the output be too hot to handle? Is there a possibility that it could damage the jacks and make them useless?
• Instead of going the partial DIY route (like the filthy casual I am in that matters) and risk damaging anything due to my noobness, could I buy a cheap acoustic guitar preamp from Aliexpress.

^ This will cost around 900 INR which will require me to stretch my budget a bit, but I wouldn't have any headaches about soldering. The guitar preamp also has a tuner (don't care much about it), three-band EQ and a few other things. I was thinking of putting this into a box, putting a 1/4" jack for input and use the output signal to record.
However, buying the chip from Amazon will be wayy cheaper, including all the wires and jacks required. For 5V power, I was thinking of using 3 AA batteries. If I'm not wrong, it'll decrease the power of output, but that shouldn't be too much of an issue, right?
Any and all help appreciated, thanks!!

Lets talk impedance matching. The tuner and or balun is used primarily below 50 MHZ While some use the NewElec 9 to1 balun and others use nothing, connecting the antenna to the RTL-SDR or up converter. There are other options. 1 would to be using a TV type transformer. The ones that go from flat lead (300 ohm) to coax (75 ohm) this is a 6 to 1 transformation. Usually a scrounged item or buy new for around $5. Another would be the NooEle ( 9 to 1 ) that is very nice and has a SMA output with a quick clip input. Listing for $9.95 http://www.nooelec.com/store/sdbalun-one-nine.html The next would be a antenna tuner. There are several types. I would suggest this one. Only because of price $11.12. It is a kit that can match from 40 ohms to 300. It is a pie or T configuration as designed. With a simple modification it will de a L tuner that will in most cases work better than the T for matching a long wire, One of the previously mentioned balun could be used or a simple modification to extend the range. www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-Kit-QRP-manual-days-Antenna-Tuner-Tune-1-30Mhz-For-HAM-RADIO-CW/32716468654.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.24.Ne86ny&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10084_10308_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10178_10137_10111_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_5360015_10154_438_10056_10055_10054_10310_10182_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051-10102,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_7_ppcChannel&btsid=62e28631-219c-49f5-93d7-bf00e7964a4a&algo_expid=22c174ea-e7b1-467e-bc68-8067a824f0b5-3&algo_pvid=22c174ea-e7b1-467e-bc68-8067a824f0b5 There are several reasons to use a tuner. Not only will matching the antenna. It will act as a band pass filter. This can be a great asset when using a RTL-SDR. The sight has a schematic with a switch referenced as a tandem switch. This switch should be omitted along with all parts that are switched around in the schematic for the purpose of RTL-SDR reception. During construction use this switch to remove C out. This will make it a T tuner when the switch is open and a L tuner when closed. The T configuration will give the best band pass filtration. The L configuration will match a higher antenna impedance. For those who wish to buy a pre-made tuner. There are many on the net. I will reference this one only because it is a good representative. Do a net search and choose appropriately. www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-9201 Do not buy a auto tuner. It will not work with a RTL-SDR. Another useless option for the RTL-SDR is an SWR meter. Both the meter and auto tuners require a rf transmitter signal and are useless with the RTL-SDR. Both of the tuners referenced come with BNC connecters that must be replaced or adapted to SMA conecters to work with the better RTL-SDR products. I will reference the replacement and adapters below. www.aliexpress.com/item/BNC-SMA-RF-Adapter-Kit-SMA-to-BNC-4-Type-Straight-Nickel-Gold-Plated-BNC-to/32513809075.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.112.Dx8x3j&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10084_10308_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10178_10137_10111_5360011_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_10154_438_10056_10055_10054_10310_10182_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051-10050,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_7_ppcChannel&btsid=a3fabcc6-c047-4b74-b6c6-c7df7a5036ae&algo_expid=342eaade-362b-4a34-994c-b3dce32de13f-14&algo_pvid=342eaade-362b-4a34-994c-b3dce32de13f SMA panel mount. www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-RF-SMA-4-Hole-Panel-Mount-Connector-Female-Jack-With-Dielectric-And-Solder-Post/628284996.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.9.oTbmM4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10084_10308_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10178_10137_10111_5360011_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_10154_438_10056_10055_10054_10310_10182_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_7_ppcChannel&btsid=3f32fd7f-7494-4ff7-a949-ff34f7b54de1&algo_expid=4858b822-edc2-4a6a-b80f-52da2ade1409-1&algo_pvid=4858b822-edc2-4a6a-b80f-52da2ade1409 A person not acquainted with antenna tuners would be well advised.

Mine is: Guitar>tuner>Wampler ego compressor>Fulltone OCD overdrive>MXR M69 Prime Distortion>Electro Harmonix Metal Muff(with top boost)>Boss RV-6 reverb>Orange Tiny Terror>Orange PPC-112
The compressor set a really good base for my tone. Adds some sustain and a bit more attack. Then my OCD is really good for setting a nice bluesy crunch without being too up front and I slightly boost that with my Prime distortion. On the other hand, my Prime Distortion sets a great starting point for the Metal Muff to build on, giving me an extremely tight and punishing sound with the ability to accentuate both my highs and lows. The top boost is really just for that extra punch when hitting solos, and I'll add my reverb here and there just for some extra ambiance. Playing through the tiny Terror is amazing, and it really keeps my mids in check, so I don't go too far treble/bass. It took me some time to figure out how to incorporate the MXR but using it as an accent for the OCD/Metal Muff is the way to go (in my opinion). What about you guys?

Howdy folks. I'll start with the issues above in detail, then go into my parts list.
1a) Power Issues: In recent months, sometimes leaving my computer or sleep mode for as short a period as 5 minutes will not elicit any response from the computer; the power light will stay on, and yet will not wake up from sleep mode, necessitating holding down the power button, unplugging the power cord from the PSU, waiting for several minutes, plugging it back in, and trying it again. Sometimes, even this does not work.
1b) Also, ever since I built it, my Corsair 750D Airflow Edition case's power button only ever has 1 out of 2 power lights on. I've mostly written this off as a cosmetic issue, but thought it'd be worth noting.
2) CPU Temp Issues: About 75% of the times I turn on my computer, despite resting at full idle, Temps on my CPU have rapidly fluctuated for the first 5 minutes of the PC's activity. Speccy reads temps from as low as 40 to as high as the low 80's, again, while at full idle. The air coming out of the CPU fan section of my case during this phase is cold as ice, but I notice the EK Predator 240 water pumps are noticeably warm, as if the heat isn't transferring from the pumps to the fans somehow (I only assume this because I can noticeably feel heat from my GPU fan when It is under load). During this initial phase, all other components run cool as normal.
After about 2-5 minutes of this, it will suddenly ZOOM back down to 15-22 degrees idle, and typical temps everywhere else (50-60 under heavy game load).
Again, worth noting tat my computer worked fine (besides the solo power button light issue) for 3-4 months before this emerged, and the OC ratings haven't changed.
Any familiarity with these issues, or knowledge of places to start? Please let me know.
EDIT: OC Settings for the curious: XMP Overclock Tuner
BCLK Freq: 102.00
Asus Multicore Enhancement: Auto
CPU Core Ratio Limit - 42 (All Cores)
DRAM Freq: Auto
DRAM Odd Ratio: Enabled
DRAM Freq: 3399MHz.
TPU: Keep Current Setting
Min / Max CPU Cache Ratio: 42
DRAM Voltage: 1.3200
CPU Voltage: 1.3300
All other Voltages: Auto
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor	$310.98 @ Newegg
Motherboard	Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard	$198.98 @ Newegg
Memory	G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400 Memory	$129.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive	-
Storage	Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive	$49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card	Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card	-
Case	Corsair 750D Airflow Edition ATX Full Tower Case	$149.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply	Corsair 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply	$199.99 @ B&H
Optical Drive	Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer	$17.88 @ OutletPC
Operating System	Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit	$99.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan	Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM 107.4 CFM 140mm Fan	$29.94 @ OutletPC
Case Fan	Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM 107.4 CFM 140mm Fan	$29.94 @ OutletPC
Case Fan	Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 158.5 CFM 140mm Fan	$25.89 @ Amazon
Case Fan	Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 158.5 CFM 140mm Fan	$25.89 @ Amazon
Monitor	Acer XB270HU bprz 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor	-
Keyboard	Corsair K70 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard	$169.99 @ Corsair
Other	EK Predator 240	$243.99
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total (before mail-in rebates)	$1697.76
	Mail-in rebates	-$15.00
	Total	$1682.76
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-28 14:45 EST-0500

Troubleshooting Help:

What is your parts list? Consider formatting your parts list.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor	Purchased For $200.00
CPU Cooler	Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler	Purchased For $90.00
Motherboard	Asus Z97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard	Purchased For $120.00
Memory	Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory	Purchased For $80.00
Storage	Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive	Purchased For $90.00
Video Card	EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card	$319.99 @ Amazon
Case	Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case	Purchased For $40.00
Power Supply	Silverstone Strider Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $135.00
Operating System	Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)	Purchased For $100.00
Case Fan	Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM 71.7 CFM 120mm Fan	Purchased For $30.00
Monitor	Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor	Purchased For $240.00
Other	PP05-E	Purchased For $30.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$1474.99
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-06 17:04 EDT-0400

Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive.
I was waiting for the money to buy my graphics card and installed it today, about a week after completing the rest of the build. Things were fine, I had a steady OC using Asus's auto tuner to get around 4.4 Ghz while still Idling at around 40 degrees Celcius. I installed the 970 today and had to reorient the Cpu Block to get the tubes out of the way of the Pcie slot, and after booting up, I'm now idling at 70 and throttling up to 100 at idle. I did a clean thermal compound application with some Arctic Silver stuff, and I'm stumped as to what it could be. I even turned the CPU settings back to default in the BIOS and it has unaffected the temps. I feel that it shouldn't be this high.

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Gibson/2016-SG-Special-T-Satin-Vintage-Sunburst-1438957998464.gc
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Orange-Amplifiers/PPC-Series-PPC212OB-120W-2x12-Open-Back-Guitar-Speaker-Cab-Straight-1274423038878.gc
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Orange-Amplifiers/Dual-Terror-DT30H-30W-Tube-Guitar-Amp-Head-1274423038874.gc
The rest of my budget is being spent on necessities like cables, picks, strings, a string winder, tuner, strap, and a capo. I plan on building a pedal board and then buying pedals slowly throughout the rest of the year. Thoughts? I'm also assuming from my research that the amp and head will be loud enough to jam with my friends.
Edit: Also I played around with a bunch of different guitar / amp combinations at my local Guitar Center and this is definitely my favorite, so I'm not rushing into anything. I've been back and forth to GC for the last 4-5 days trying different stuff.
http://imgur.com/6X79HAi

http://i.imgur.com/aZve1HA.jpg
Mid 90s Mesa dual rectifier (2-channel) into an Orange PPC-212 cab. The pedalboard needs a few more additions (ordering an ISP Decimator next). The only pedals I use on the board now are the Dunlop Crybaby, Hardwire polyphonic tuner, Danelectro Fish n' Chips (as a solo boost), the channel switch, and my Line 6 G30 wireless.
All goes into my Schecter C-1+ or an Ibanez Art100, both with Seymour Duncan hot rodded set in them.
Overall, I'm more than happy upgrading from my Peavey Valveking head and 6505 cab!

With things being nearly complete, I present to you my almost done rig for 2013! I missed my cakeday yesterday, but who cares? This is about sharing.
The Rig
Where I spend much quality time.
Main amp/cab
Blackstar HT 20 on an Orange PPC 212. Juicy. Also pictured: Meeblip DIY digital mono synth, YouRock Guitar MIDI controller, Orange Micro Terror, and an Ebow.
Pedals!!
Vox Big Bad Wah > Digitech Whammy ^ Korg Tuner > DIY Bypass Loop (send) > MXR EQ > Modtone Delay (for pre-distortion delay fun) > Way Huge Green Rhino > (FUZZ PEDAL GOES HERE) > Bypass Loop (return) > Blackstar preamp > EXH Black Finger > EHX Freeze > MXR Carbon Copy (warm short modulated repeats) > TC Electronic Flashback (long clear delay and ambience) > Hardwire Supernatural Reverb (PGSAndy would be proud...) > Blackstar power amp > Orange 212. Yeah, I use 3 delays. Don't judge me, I like to stagger them for multi-head delay sounds. The only thing I'm missing is a good Big Muff Ram's Head clone right after that Green Rhino, for Gilmour tones.
Jacquelyn
This is my love. A standard MIM Telecaster with Seymour Duncan Hot Stack and P-Rails, push/pull pot and mini toggle for pickup splitting, Bigsby w/ Vibramate kit, and Graphtech saddles. She still needs locking tuners and a better string tree. I got her this past December and I can't stop touching.
Pegasus
Ibanez RG 4EX1 with a GFS Fat Pat and a Dimarzio PAF Joe. Stock middle pickup, blah. My faithful friend since late 2007. For those non-shoegazey days.
Eleca Acoustic/Electric
An interesting piece, but the pickup no longer works. It sounds mellow and plays well enough, but I was really drawn to the black w/ cream binding and f holes. Classy. Ignore the man in the reflection...
Squier P Bass
I woke up one day and decided I needed a 5 string bass! DR Neon strings are really nifty too!
Epiphone Mandobird
Another thing I just decided I needed! Lots of fun.
A couple Fender solid state workhorses
I don't really need these guys anymore, but they served me well for mere pocket change. I used that head with the Orange for last year's gigs, and the 212 combo was a great amp to keep at the church. Maybe I'll set up a stereo rig someday, just for fun. I'd like to hear just how big and wide that Supernatural reverb can get!
A few other things...
A ZT Lunchbox that I use for rehearsals, a very warm sounding 1950s Silvertone combo, the old Zoom GFX-3 and the newer Zoom G3 (each was a part of my rig at some point, now they are used for synths/utility effects), Dano Fab Chorus, EHX Metal Muff, Ibanez Smash Box, an MXR Phase 45 clone with sweet Sharpied graphics done by me, a BSIAB2 clone (labeled Bronze Eagle, because that sounds cooler to me), and an Alesis Micron synth. Not pictured is a Roland Alpha Juno 2 and an M-Audio Venom.
Thanks for looking! I could gear-talk all day. I will if you all let me.

I recently purchased a TC Electronics G Major, mostly for reverb and delay, but i want to take full advantage of the modulation effects noise gate, and channel switching. I'm running a Mesa Triple Rectifier, which has MIDI channel switching inputs, but i've read that i need to get a unit such as an Amp Gizmo, or a Voodoo Lab Control Switcher to properly control the channel switching (apparently you cannot use a Y cable from the g major because the jacks don't share a ground, and can ruin the switching matrix in the the amp). The GCX Audio Switcher also caught my eye (This setup is very close to what i want, only incorporating the G Major). What i hope to accomplish is having one foot controller to select channels, toggle effects, or have patches set up so i'm not tap dancing mid song to get a solo boost with delay, overdrive, flange, etc. Hopefully i can scrap my whole pedal board setup and run one floor controller and a tuner pedal. Anyone else have experience with this type of setup? I'm totally new to the MIDI game so any advice would be much appreciated.