hey friends! got a lil problem i’m hoping someone with more experience can help me figure out. i bought a panasonic wj-mx30 off ebay about two months afo. i grabbed a box of BNC to composite adaptors on amazon because i’m rocking with a VHS player and a couple CRTs. the mixer itself is in great condition, everything works like it should. i played around with it for a couple weeks then put it away since it was taking up a bit of space.
i brought it out the other day to mess around with, and it was a nightmare. nothing seemed to want to cooperate with each other. if i plugged the VHS player directly into the TV, it would work no problem. but if i plugged the VHS player into the input on the mixer, it would not show up on the TV when plugging the mixer’s output into the TV. i tried several different TVs, all 5 of my different composite cables, same issue. at one point i did get everything to communicate correctly after an hour of playing around with it. i fiddled with the power cord of the VHS player which suddenly made everything work. the next day when i went to turn everything back on, same problem, and playing with the VHS cord didn’t do anything. haven’t gotten everything to work again since
here are a few more relevant things:

• i live in an old house with not many wall outlets, so i’m currently rocking with a surge protector and a regular extension cord with 3 outlets plugged into two different wall outlets on opposite sides of my living room
• the VHS player was new in box when i got it last year and hasn’t been used much
• running a cable from an output port to an input port on the mixer itself always works perfectly and instantly
• all of my RCA cables are old, BUT they worked no problem the first time i messed around with it
• some of the adaptors feel loose when plugged into the BNC ports. like the composite cables don’t want to stay inside them. i’ve never used adaptors for electronics before so idk if that’s normal. sometimes messing around with taking the adaptors off and putting them back on helps the connection feel more secure, but doesn’t affect the issue with the signal
• i tried a camcorder plugged directly into the TV and into the mixer and out to the TV, and in both instances, with all the cords, the signal was pretty weak. i had to really fiddle with my composite cables to get a decent image

i’m leaning toward this being either a cable issue or a power issue, but i don’t understand why i would suddenly have so much trouble using all of the exact same equipment i used the first time around. should i purchase some brand new composite cables and see if that fixes the issue? or should i track down some s-video to composite adaptors and try those ports instead? all of my TVs have composite line-in ports and the coax type port in for antennas in the back. i already have so many god damn cables in my house that i just don’t want to buy a bunch more only to discover it’s not a cable-related issue
i’m pretty new at all this and can’t seem to find the right words to get any assistance from google, so i’m hoping y’all can point me in the right direction!! thanks in advance

I've just received a pair of these JBL 305p mkii speakers and I have come to realise the bass is alot more than expected at higher volumes and because I live in a flat it's not ideal, I have it connected to my TV via optical to RCA converter simply for now but what can I do about lowering the bass as the sound stage I really like from these speakers I just don't know much about this stuff to know what to do to reduce the bass? Any suggestions

I've just received a pair of these JBL speakers and I have come to realise the bass is alot more than expected at higher volumes and because I live in a flat it's not ideal, I have it connected to my TV via optical to RCA converter simply for now but what can I do about lowering the bass as the sound stage I really like from these speakers I just don't know much about this stuff to know what to do to reduce the bass? Any suggestions

Keep in mind that I am not a home theater pro, so explain it to me like I’m five lol.
My LG speaker connects to my LG OLED TV using an optical cable. The speaker also has an HDMI port, but I’ve never been able to output sound with any of my TV’s HDMIs.
Now I’ve bought a set of RF headphones. The headphones can use either an optical cord or the old-school red and white RCA cables (which I don’t seem to have ports for.) I want to keep the headphones and the speaker plugged in so that I can switch between them whenever.
Two questions:

1. Am I right in thinking I should be using the optical cable for both? If so, how would I set this up? Is there such thing as an optical splitter?
   
2. I don’t see any way to use the RCA cables on my TV. Am I correct that I also don’t have an HDMI port that will send audio out? It seems weird for a $2500 TV to only have one port for audio, so I’m assuming I must be missing something.
   

Link with photos and specs of my TV

Welcome to the raspberry_pi Helpdesk and Frequently Asked Questions!

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3. Q: My Pi is behaving strangely/crashing/freezing, giving low voltage warnings, ethernet/wifi stops working, USB devices don't behave correctly, what do I do? A: 99.999% of the time it's either a bad SD card or power problems. Use a USB power meter or measure the 5V on the GPIO pins with a multimeter while the Pi is busy (such as playing h265/x265 video) and/or get a new SD card 1 2 3. If the voltage is less than 5V your power supply and/or cabling is not adequate. When your Pi is doing lots of work it will draw more power. Even if your power supply claims to provide sufficient amperage, it may be mislabeled or the cable you're using to connect the power supply to the Pi may have too much resistance. You can use a USB load tester to test your power supply and cable. Some power supplies require negotiation to provide more than 500mA, which the Pi does not do. If you're plugging in USB devices try using a powered USB hub with its own power supply and plug your devices into the hub and plug the hub into the Pi.
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   3. You're specifying the wrong username
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   • --break-system-packages
   • sudo rm a specific file as detailed in the stack overflow answer
7. Q: The only way to troubleshoot my problem is using a multimeter but I don't have one. What can I do? A: Get a basic multimeter, they are not expensive.
8. Q: My Pi won't boot, how do I fix it? A: Step by step guide for boot problems
9. Q: I want to watch Netflix/Hulu/Amazon/Vudu/Disney+ on a Pi but the tutorial I followed didn't work, does someone have a working tutorial? A: Use a Fire Stick/AppleTV/Roku. Pi tutorials used tricks that no longer work or are fake click bait.
10. Q: What model of Raspberry Pi do I need so I can watch YouTube in a browser? A: No model of Raspberry Pi is capable of watching YouTube smoothly through a web browser, you need to use VLC.
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12. Q: Is it possible to use a single Raspberry Pi to do multiple things? Can a Raspberry Pi run Pi-hole and something else at the same time? A: YES. Pi-hole uses almost no resources. You can run Pi-hole at the same time on a Pi running Minecraft which is one of the biggest resource hogs. The Pi is capable of multitasking and can run more than one program and service at the same time. (Also known as "workload consolidation" by Intel people.) You're not going to damage your Pi by running too many things at once, so try running all your programs before worrying about needing more processing power or multiple Pis.
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14. Q: I only have one outlet and I need to plug in several devices, what do I do? A: They make things called power strips aka multi-tap extensions.
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17. Q: How can I run a script at boot/cron or why isn't the script I'm trying to run at boot/cron working? A: Try one of these numerous solutions
18. Q: Can I use this screen that came from ____ ? A: No
19. Q: I run my Pi headless and there's a problem with my Pi and the best way to diagnose it or fix it is to plug in a monitor & keyboard, what do I do? A: Plug in a monitor & keyboard.
20. Q: My Pi seems to be causing interference preventing the WiFi/Bluetooth from working A. Using USB 3 cables that are not properly shielded can cause interference and the Pi 4 can also cause interference when HDMI is used at high resolutions.
21. Q: I'm trying to use the built-in composite video output that is available on the Pi 2/3/4 headphone jack, do I need a special cable? A. Make sure your cable is wired correctly and you are using the correct RCA plug. Composite video cables for mp3 players will not work, the common ground goes to the wrong pin. Camcorder cables will often work, but red and yellow will be swapped on the Raspberry Pi.
22. Q: I'm running my Pi with no monitor connected, how can I use VNC? A: First, do you really need a remote GUI? Try using ssh instead. If you're sure you want to access the GUI remotely then ssh in, type vncserver -depth 24 -geometry 1920x1080 and see what port it prints such as :1, :2, etc. Now connect your client to that.
23. Q: I want to do something that has been well documented and there are numerous tutorials showing how to do it on Linux. How can I do it on a Raspberry Pi? A: A Raspberry Pi is a full computer running Linux and doesn't use special stripped down embedded microcontroller versions of standard Linux software. Follow one of the tutorials for doing it on Linux. Also see question #1.
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25. Q: I'm trying to do something with Bluetooth and it's not working, how do I fix it? A: It's well established that Bluetooth and Linux don't get along, this problem is not unique to the Raspberry Pi.

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Hi everybody!
I am currently trying to figure out what gear to buy for my affordable HI-FI set-up. Since I have nothing yet I planned to improve the system over the time. My initial set up would be something like this:

• Turntable with pre-amp (AT LP-2X/AT LP-3XBT)
• CD Player with DAC (Yamaha CD S-300 second hand or S-303 new)
• Active speakers (Edifier RT1700BT, without the subwoofer output)

I think I can connect the turntable and the CD player to the same speakers. Things start getting more complicate when I start adding gear.
One of the first upgrades that I would like to add is a powered amplifier (Yamaha AS-301) but I have already questions here. Is the DAC in the Amp better than the one in the CD Player? Is the pre amp in the amp better than the one in the turntable? Will I notice a big difference in in a third step I buy a separated DAC and pre amp? Should I then find an amp without phono and DAC to buy external ones later?
I though also adding the Yamaha R-S202 receiver. It does not include a DAC or Phono but since I would use the ones in the turntable and CD receiver maybe I don't need. However I think it does not include an amplifier so I guess it won't work with passive speakers and therefore I am not sure what a receiver could bring to my setup besides adding more resources like the TV to the speakers, specially if I get something like the AS-301 that includes a lot of RCA inputs.
If I also have a Playstation and an apple TV, should I get an AV receiver? And if so, would this just replace the Stereo receiver or also the amplifier?
So the evolution plan would be something like:

1. Basic setup
2. Add an amplifier + passive speakers
3. Add external DAC and pre-amp

What do you think? Am I missing something or doing something that makes no sense and would not increase the quality of sound?
I have added some reference models I have being reviewing but I am opened to other brands with a similar price. I am a bit reluctant about the Edifiers, very good online reviews but I don't know if should trust them, I have also read bad comments but maybe as my first pair of active speakers is fine.
Another question on the speakers, I liked the Edifiers because they have the "whole" in the front and I read that is good if you plan to put them close to the wall. Mine would be around 15-20cm from them. Is it still preferred the opening in the front or would I not have any issue with one in the back?
Thanks a lot and sorry if I misslead concepts and terms.

I was given an old stereo system and have tried damn hard to get it working. At one point managing barely managing sound, at the lowest level with no change from the volume knobs. I've spent hours trying everything, researching, googling etc. The system worked fine with the original user, but I wasn't able to document how it was setup before receiving it.

• The tv is a [Sony KDL-55HX729](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/320074/Sony-Bravia-Kdl-55hx729.html#manual)
• The recevier is a [Sony STR-DE197](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/938563/Sony-Str-De197.html)
• The sound system is [Bose Acoustimass AM-5 Series I](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/19568/Bose-Acoustimass-Am-5.html#manual). It's from 1989 but I've heard it working when hooked up at the original owner's home.

They may have connected multiple things into a cable box, so I'm not sure if that has an effect. I've tried playing audio from the tv, headphone out, audio system. Tried all itterations of the tv's speaker vs. audio system settings. I've tried connecting a CD/DVD player [DVP-SR510H](https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/4447/0ba6a1e89709d286fcf70a09f8f4d71a/44474812M.pdf) for audio (which was connected to the system previously).
I've primarily tried to connect through RCA cables, but there's also a 3.5mm to RCA cable that I tried as well since the TV has a port for headphones. Hopefully I'm just missing something simple and amateurish, and I'm hoping someone can help me make progress.

So I'm using a RGB cable for my SNES which has 6 RCA connectors: R, G, B, Composite video, Stereo audio
I'm using a modded Sony BA-5-based TV (KV-21FE12A), and feeding the Composite video signal throuh the existing Composite video input. But the image is shifted too much to the left, and can't be compensated from service menu and yoke switch. I understand this is due to lag introduced by the comb filter.
The mod mentions an alternative injection point for sync for TVs such as this model, that don't have S-Video inputs, through an existing capacitor, into pin 9 of the jungle IC. But for some reason this isn't working for me. When feeding video (not luma or Csync, my cable doesn't have Csync, only Composite video), through this capacitor, I can see the video signal at the right level at pin 9 of the Jungle chip, but it's not syncing to it.
I'm not sure if it's not syncing to it because it expects a Luma signal and I'm sending chroma with it. What are my options?
Destroy my cable and see if i can rewire it to output Csync?
Use a LM1881 to extract Csync from video and use that instead?
Enable S-Video from the service menu (is this even possible?)

This is an old CD player that used to be part of a whole stereo system. I have 2 questions:
(1) I'm only trying to use the CD player right now. There's an RCA "line out" on the back. Can I hook up an RCA to Bluetooth transmitter so that I can output the sound and play CDs to a standard Bluetooth speaker. Would this work?
MOREGAX M10 RGB Upgraded Bluetooth 5.4 Audio Receiver Transmitter for TV Home Stereo/Speakers Bluetooth Audio Adapter with Display, USB, RCA, 3.5 mm AUX, FM Radio Input/Output https://a.co/d/4q5Nvpa
(2) The tray opens and closes freely when a disc is inside. But when there's no disc inside, I have to help it open. Is this is an easy or hard fix?
https://youtu.be/3Ws302B3Rjg?si=jRkSf4SscLw-mHKx

I hope this will be pinned as I want to provide a upto-date full-scope info dump on critical things that have changed over the last few years that people binging YT videos and old threads will be out of the loop on.
The Decode Wiki has a massive amount of information thats proacticly updated and mantained, so here is just a more camcorder format biased summary of a lot info there.

Rule 1

There is a thing called SAVE or LOCK tap on tapes, enable it on all your tapes before playing with them, this will save your ass from careless or just mistakes and stop your from erasing your tapes.

Cleaning & Service

Please do not treat mechnical kit like magic, it requires care and maintaince like a car or a rifle it has a lot of parts that need cleaning and oiling once and awhile or outright replacing like belts and capston rubber wheels.
Paper & 99.9% IPA never 60% etc (water + elecronics just no.) for VHS & Beta head cleaning.
Chamois Sticks (overpriced waste for all but camcorders) for small head cleaning.
Brush, Airblower, Super-Lube, Sowing Machine oil - Genreal cleaning & service.
Lens cleaning should always be with microfibeswabs to clean rims, UV Filters are your dust/shatter protection friends caps are also adviced during sunlight use!

PAL & NTSC

We are not all united in this world of standards per region, never forget the diffrances it can cost you time and suffering.
PAL 625-line (25fps 50 fields "25i") is Europe/Middle East to Russia 50hz grids
NTSC 525-line (29.97fps 59.94 fields "29.97i") is USA/Canada/Japan 60hz grids
Digital active area is 720x576i PAL and NTSC is 720x480i or 488
(there is also 608/512 height called IMX standard for preserving the VBI area both are in analog world sampled at 4fsc or 1135x625 PAL & 910x525 NTSC but only vhs/ld/cvbs-decode provide acesss to the full signal frame.)
NTSC-N/PAL-M/NTSC-50/PAL60 etc (South America and outhers who could not just stick to one unifyed system or slowly migrated with existing kit)
Recorded Media only has 3 flavors in common world use, NTSC/PAL then the french have SECAM or MESECAM for recorded tapes before moving to PAL.
Digital you will use and or encouter i.e 2000s era will only be NTSC/PAL (then flavors of HD in interlaced or progressive 25/24/29.97p) to keep things simple.
PAL decks (most 90's & 2000's decks) will play most MESECAM tapes, will play NTSC tapes also but the standard video output will have 4.43Mhz instead of 3.35Mhz colour subcarrier so NTSC native kit will not like it, such as Time Base correctors or NTSC CRT TVs so you will get B/W video out of a lot of PAL kit with native NTSC support too or it will be just PAL converted by a PAL DMR-ES10 for example.
The decks however are reading full NTSC or MESECAM signal off the tape so the video boards internally are converting the signal, but with direct RF capture will get you a native capture to work with and preserve analog tapes.

Digital Tapes

Massive Guide Here with full scope breakdown
Do NOT HOT PLUG, FireWire is 12v turn kit off hook up cable turn it back on, unless its a adapter from TB2 to TB3 to FW800 with low power data only then its most likey a full spec port with 12v 5A that can kill kit if ports are not clean and you hot plug it.
MiniDV/HDV/Digital8 FireWire Camcorders fall under

• FireWire/IEEE 1394 (4pin FW400 / 6pin FW400 / 9pin FW800)
• Apple Replaced this with ThunderBlot TB3 to TB2 then a TB2 to FW800 adapter is commonly used for MacOS users.

StarTech and 101 china brands make cards, I like DVgrab on Linux, but WinDV still works for most Windows Boxes & Final Cut still works on MacOS.

Digital Pro Tapes

HDCam / HDCam SR / DVCProHD / DigiBeta (digital betacam) / MPEG IMX etc
Some decks like DVC do have FireWire but HDcam and Digibeta flavors are all SDI
HDCam falls under SDI - Digital to V210 or FFV1 4:2:2
This applys to decks and camcorders you will be using SDI most likey but some had HDMI 8-bit 4:2:2 output like later HDV camcorders did.

Analog Tapes

VHS-C/SVHS-C/BetaMax/Betacam/Video8/Hi8
SVHS may have VITC timecode in VBI space, Hi8 can have PCM digital audio if shot with pro kit and RCTC data like time and date code on pro and prosumer models.
The best possible method for preserving tapes in the 21st century for analog Video and HiFi signals is The FM RF Archival Method then decoding it to S-Video/Composite in software then chroma-decoding it to YUV digital data all in software, no hardware TBC or this capture card is better then that capture card nightmare or limted codec support, it cuts through the noise (littorally) and plight of inflated hardware markets, VHS-Decode gives you a alternative for all analog tape formats dispite its name.
This is direct sampling of the orignal signals as the deck reads the tapes before its internal processing, this is the most affordable and technologically high quality preservation workflow that anyone can use today, cost of entry is sub 100USD and virtually all decks have test points. (but later decks will not have easy HiFi test points so 90s decks with a good cleaning first are your go to.)
You may even already own a CXADC compatible Hauppauge/WinTV or outher brand of capture card with CX chips the driver can use.
Sony 8mm or Hi8/Video8 and Digital8 with backwards playback support have test jigs that are plug and play for test points.
The older more well known method is deck with S-Video Time Base Corrector "TBC" ADC/Capture Card or a capture card with a TBC, this will cost you 2-20x the cost of a FM RF archival workflow thats with a basic office PC out of the skip basically added to the shopping list.

Making a Camcorder tapeless

Analog - S-Video/CVBS or Compoosite (Yellow RCA or 4-Pin Din for S-Video)
Digital - HDMI (but only HDV MiniDV camcorders had this so S-Video would be the best output in 16:9 squesse mode this applys to Digital8)
Cheep Analog SDI coverters off eBay using a 12v to USB-PD adapter will be the most powerful plug and play clean signal converting kit you can put into a Molle belt pouch or backpack with PD power adapters.
SDI is just HDMI with some more specs and piped over Coax cable orignally it replaced all the Coax copper lines that ran Composite or CVBS in studios and now its good solid locking interface for A/V world using the BNC connector from the 1940s and HDMI converters are a dime a dozen for SDI.
Digital8/MiniDV you can buy little off shelf USB adapters, but for later prosumer kit with NPF mount etc just buy a new 18650 cell based chinese battery they last all day long.
Recorders, Atmos, Blackmagic are your 2 go to brands today, but if you have a laptop just get a Magewell or GV-USB2 based setup and encode with VirtualDub2 or OBS if you like crunching stuff with realtime de-interlacing (its terrible for recorded media never should do it, but for live feeds you can get away with it in most cases as long as your system can keep up and use a codec like ProRes LT)

Power & Power Adapting

You can use 9v with stepdown or 5v with step up to power the 6-7.1v to 7.1 to 8.5v voltage range of camcorders, common batterys today are NPF, BP, V-Mount or Gold Mount with ARRI B-Mount slowing getting adaoption, but USB-PD or 20v 3A PD65W and 20v 5a PD100W power banks are now very cheep and provide more then enough to power most field portable kit.

Codecs & Containers & Chroma Sampling & Bit-Depth

Codecs and Cotainers is fun, but MP4/MOV is banned for archival, you will lose files, they break if the recording/encoding fails midway, do not trust them to store your audio and video memorys forever.
MKV/MXF are the only containers you should keep masters in if not DV/AVI at worst for HD and SD media today very much so if you have a home server with Jellyfin for example header dependent containers like MP4/MOV are poor for streaming locally and over the the internet on demand headderless don't care and are very relisaint if currupton happens you lose frames/seconds not your whole file.
(Note: you can easily re-mux a file from these safe containers for use on outher devices that require avi or mp4 etc its just a wrapper to hold the data, its easy to convert between the two without loss)
Codecs range from lossy compressed like AVC/H264 or HEVC/H265 (in MP4/MOV etc) to Lossy DV25 used for MiniDV/Digital8, to visually lossles like ProRes HQ, and the V210 for uncompressed and FFV1 today for lossless compressed.
Chroma Sub-Sampling is how much colour range data is stored per pixel, 4:2:2 is enough to use green screens and preserve the full range of live from camara Composite NTSC or PAL, ware as 4:4:4 is the same for HD era kit in very lay terms here but this is only for master recordings and for digitisaion.
Bit-Depth is simple 8-bit 256 range 10-bit 1024 range of colour, you want 10-bit almost always for inital capture in digital HD era and in Analog SD archival but can drop it to 8-bit 4:2:0 with careful encoding after the fact many videos on this that are clear and demo this.
For example though in this community DV is 4:1:1 NTSC and 4:2:0 in PAL so if using a Digital8 camcorder to ingest tapes from Video8/Hi8 your not saving the full range of colour and also using a lossy compressed codec at 25-30mbps great for 1995 but for 45-50mbps you can use lossless compressed FFV1 8-bit 4:2:2.

Deinterlacing

101 ways hardware and software converters, personally if your camcorder does not have a progressive or progressive pulldown mode, shoot in interlaced, use Hybird or StaxRip with the QTGMC filter via Vapoursynth or Avisynth its 3-5 clicks today and some copy paste at worst, dont use BDWIF or YADIF if you can help it, and always bare in mind lossy compressed interlaced footage will almost always have artifacts to fight with.
All Analog media in consumeprosumer world is interlaced and should be delt with in post for recorded media.

Final Notes

This is a fun subject that without basic EE/Cine/ENG world info being ingrained into your mind, its not very well condenced for people to get into without making massive mistakes or just ones that are sad to see due to lack of ah heres a nice list of key points to go and google and look into or sticky note on the kit.
I hope this has got you on the path of understanding key info in this era!

Bold Font isn't working anymore so this is going to look kind of ugly. Okay I don't know what's going on with the Font on Reddit but it works sometimes but other times it won't let me use it. This is bizarre.
Antz 1998 ID5915DW Released: 10/08/1999

At First Sight 1999 ML107181 Released: 27/04/1999 Notable for it's late release. Wouldn't called it coolest.

Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery: Special Edition 1997 ID3965LI Notable because of the bright colors It's a common enough laserdisc for the standard surround sound version.

Blade 1998 ID4252LI Released: 22/12/1999

Bride of Chucky 1998 LD 83749-WS Released: 30/03/1999 *My favorite Widescreen release. Looks fantastic but this is not a cheap laserdisc and ranges from 120-170 or higher on Ebay at the time of this posting. So can't really recommend to anyone that is struggling financially.
Child's Play 2 1990 41024 Notable because of it's incredibly beautiful Cav side for the last 20 mins or so of the movie. Looks really gorgeous and if you do a quick google search you can find screen captures I did with Hauppauge with my CLD-99. The CLV side is no slouch either. It's all around one of the best looking 4:3 releases on this format. You'll specifically be able to notice the detail and the beautiful eyes on the CAV side. They stand out even more so especially with close up shots of Chucky and Andy. I notice on lddb some copies might have light rot from what has been reported. I did not notice rot on my copy. I notice black noise at the beginning but that's from the film print and normal.
Cliffhanger 1993 78806 I remember this being a pretty good looking Widescreen release. It's also cheap to comeby and I recommend it. It's a very common laserdisc. Common isn't bad though especially if the release looks good video quality wise. Actually as collectors and movie lovers I think we all would prefer if this format was more common so things would be more affordable.
The Crush 1993 12926 This version of the film is notable for having the correct name Darian. I actually took the laserdisc audio and spliced it into a bluray release of the film to have the correct name in the movie. You ask how can you do that when Laserdisc flips? Well, that's simple because the software I use allowed me to trim the audio so when it flipped it wasn't going to stay out of sync. Now I synced it up as best as I could and obviously it's hard to get anything perfect but I have streamed the movie in the past with others that didn't notice any audio out of sync issues so I think I did a pretty good job. I don't remember the picture quality on this one being on the level of Bride of Chucky or Cliffhanger. I think the bluray release of this did a good job picture quality wise. I'd only recommend this movie if you want the real name Darian. Also, for legal purposes I cannot give out a copy of my edit of the film for obvious reasons. I don't hold the copyrights.
Dark Tide 1993 LDCVM5850 This is the best looking release of this film and a laserdisc exclusive. Maybe in the future we will get a bluray release of it but I wouldn't hold my breath with the weird environment we live in. People get easily offended and a movie about Women being forced on an island is probably not a good selling point in this sensitive society. The main actress is beautiful though. She is really pretty. I don't know what she is but I could see her being a type of an Italian. She looks a bit italian to me. Maybe she is an Irish girl that just is good at tanning even though I've never really heard of a person who is Irish that can tan well. :)
Demonic Toys 1992 LV12937 Full Moon typically has great looking releases on laserdisc. I know this because I own quite a few of them. This is no exception. This is basically a 4:3 dvd level laserdisc similar to that of Child's Play 2. I don't think this has a CAV side but either way I remember the picture quality on this looking gorgeous even on a big flat screen. I should test it out on my crt TV which I'm sure will look even better.
Dollman Vs. Demonic Toys 1993 LV83102 See above it has great video quality for 4:3 aspect ratio. The biggest crime with this movie is that a large portion is a recap of Dollman and Demonic Toys movie before the actual real short movie starts. I first seen this movie back in the 90s as a kid when it was shown on Sci-Fi channel.
Ernest Saves Christmas 1988 953 AS Again another great 4:3 aspect ratio movie. I own all the Ernest movies on laserdisc but I found that the Christmas and Halloween movies were the only ones with really good picture quality. The other two not so much and Ernest Goes To Camp is incredibly rare and I'm lucky even have that one in my collection. I believe the Christmas one shows up every so often on Ebay and the Halloween one is kind of rare but not on the level of Ernest Goes to Camp. Ernest Goes to Prison seems to be the most common one of them all when it comes to laserdisc, then Ernest Saves Christmas, Ernest Scared Stupid, and then in my opinion the hardest to come by is Ernest Goes to Camp.
Ernest Scared Stupid 1991 1305 AS This is one of the best looking laserdisc releases for 4:3. It's up there with Child's Play 2 and Demonic Toys. I'd rate it slightly above Ernest Saves Christmas in video quality and Ernest Saves Christmas is a great release on it's own. I believe they may have used a different camera to film Ernest Scared Stupid but either way it's really clear looking and I have posted screens of this on reddit with a quick search and on lddb's screen shot topic.
Friday the 13th films all look good on laserdisc. Now could they have been a little better looking. Debatable because the cameras used and these are older films. I do remember being impressed by Friday the 13th part 5, 6, 7, and 8. Those 4 specifically look pretty good on laserdisc. Part 1 looks great but the aspect ratio is incorrect or looks weird from what I remember. I forget if the image is squished or stretched out. I think it might be slightly stretched out maybe to show more of a widescreen look at 4:3. I don't know but part 1 has weird aspect ratio from what my memory tells me. I own part 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 on laserdisc. I do actually own part 3 but I don't count it because it has laserdisc rot and is completely unwatchable. I think the part 2 I have has mild rot but is very watchable. Rotted laserdiscs I'm usually refunded for by sellers on lddb and ebay. People are usually kind to others and maybe they didn't get around to testing it or what not who knows. Well, ebay sellers typically don't a have a player but a good amount of lddb sellers do and the ebay sellers that usually do have players to test on would be people that probably sell on lddb.
Night Life 1989 90196 Stuck on laserdisc and the video quality is meh. It's definitely alot better than vhs if I had to guess but I don't remember being overly impressed. It's not terrible by any means but I think I was expecting a little more. Also, this is a movie title I'm shocked hasn't been release on bluray yet. Not sure if they believe it's not good enough for them to make $$$ on it or what. It's definitely something I thought Arrow Video, Scream/Shout Factory, Vinegar Syndrome, or one of those labels would have been able to obtain. I believe RCA owns this and I don't know if RCA is still the same RCA or if they were bought out. lddb tells me RCA and Columbia Pictures owns this movie. Keep in mind we have no idea what the original film print is like. Maybe it's too badly damage and this might be stuck on laserdisc.
Nightflyers 1987 LD 65169 Another Stuck on laserdisc and I also don't know why. The video quality again is meh and more of the middle of the road. Keep in mind I'm comparing video quality to stuff like Child's Play 2, Ernest Scared Stupid, Ernest Saves Christmas, Demonic Toys, and Full moon movies. When I say meh or middle of the road I'm not crucifying the release because they are still light years better than the VHS counterparts if I had to guess. It's still the best and only way to see the films until they get a possible bluray release. Again, I have no idea if some of these film prints are damaged to the point the laserdisc releases might be the best it ever looks. Only time will tell if they release in high definition.
A Nightmare on Elm Street films I own all 6 on film and the widescreen releases are pretty good for the format. I own the first 3 films in widescreen and the 4th, 5th, and 6th all look pretty good at their 4:3 aspect ratio. If memory serves me correctly I believe the 4th and 5th film specifically look pretty good at 4:3. The 5th film The Dream Child is only Uncut on laserdisc and vhs. I do not know why it never got a bluray or higher definition release. Maybe the uncut film print was damaged? I don't know but I do know someone was working on a project to restore it probably from a laserdisc print or I don't know what they were doing but they may have stopped because maybe New Line or someone sent them a cease and desist letter which sucks. His work can be found on youtube of the extended scenes.
Odyssey, The ID3629HL This release is great looking and definitely comparable or up there with the dvd release. Might even beat the dvd release if the dvd release has any bitrate issues. I remember watching this at school in one of my study hall classes or maybe it was a real class. I forget but I believe the guy brought it in on either vhs or dvd back in the early 2000s and we watched it on a crt tv. Actually, I'm pretty certain it was his vhs copy of the movie. Anyways the laserdisc release of this is gorgeous. I'd rate it up there with Child's Play 2, Ernest Scared Stupid, and Demonic Toys.
Pinocchio's Revenge LDVM5909 This is a fantastic release and up there with Child's Play 2 and the other movies I mentioned. I would love to say it's dvd level but the Dvd of this actually beats this by a hair. I've compared it to the DVD through screens in the past and comparing a DVD copy to it and the DVD wins. Doesn't Win by a lot and you can probably be fooled if someone hides their laserdisc player and you would probably assume it's DVD. However side by side the DVD has a little bit more details in the dolls eyes and so on. However, this is not me downplaying this laserdisc which I paid a for in the past and I see it goes up and down on ebay often so I don't think it's a super uncommon laserdisc but it's definitely one of the better 4:3 video quality films and I think Pioneerdid a fantastic job with this release. https://www.reddit.com/LaserDisc/comments/vrvsif/what_is_the_best_looking_laserdisc_video_quality/
Small Soldiers ID5914DW Released: 31/08/1999 This like Ants rarely shows up for the North American release on Ebay. I'm guessing it's either uncommon since they are both late releases or people tossed their copies out in the trash for whatever reason. Maybe they viewed this format obsolete. Funny thing is the first dvd release of Small Soldier was not good and I think it may have actually took it from the laserdisc version which is pretty good widescreen for a laserdisc. I like having this one in my collection and the video quality is solid. https://www.reddit.com/LaserDisc/comments/10x89aa/small_soldiers_laserdisc_vs_bluray/
Stranded 1987 32771 Another movie I'm shocked never got a dvd or bluray release. This one has Flea from Red Hot Chili Peppers in it. Is it a great film? No but I wouldn't call it terrible. More like middle of the road film. I think the biggest thing the film has going in it is that Flea is one of the Aliens. Video quality also meh middle of the road probably better than the VHS by a long shot. Maybe if I run into Flea I'll have him sign this one day but I doubt that'll ever happen. I don't go to conventions. I can see why this movie doesn't have a bluray release because I don't know how many people would want one. It's such an obscure piece of History. I'm not picky when it comes to movies so I think this movie is pretty cool but I can see others not liking it or giving it a chance.
Summer Camp Nightmare 1987 75666 Very weird revenge movie at a camp. I don't want to spoil to much but this one is so crazy that I do recommend people watching it. If you can't get it on laserdisc or if you think it's too expensive. I don't even know what it sells for now and I doubt I paid a lot for it maybe in the $20-$30 range 4-5 years ago or so if I had to guess in the past. But this is a fun movie in my opinion. Just bat shit crazy and that's kind of how I like it. Video quality is meh another Middle in the Road Video quality wise but I'd have to take an educated guess and say it probably beats the VHS.
Wild Wild West 1999 17794 So So movie average from what most say. However, the video quality on this release is great for a widescreen release. Its up there with the better widescreen releases. However this is one of the laserdiscs that usually command a decent price. It's not in the hundreds range normally but usually commands between 60-80 dollars. Will Smith is also a douche in real life and I think many of us are pretty much done watching his movies. He is controlled by his sick Wife. He is the ultimate Femboy. I'd get Kevin Kline and Salma Hayek but definitely don't care for Will Smith's signature. I actually think with his behavior in recent History and even his weird racial movie choices by pushing for division between people with the Emancipation movie. I think people have just had enough of Will Smith. Most normal people do not want to hear the cries of the past and the injustice of people. It is not only a certain demographic that had to go through cruel times but with the way Hollywood works they push movies like this to divide and conquer. Also, most of our Ancestors did not own black slaves because I believe it was mostly rich White people which the Majority of the Americans are not and are not descendants of rich people. Yet they lump us in with those people and blame us all for what happened to a certain demographic when most of our Ancestors probably weren't even living in USA. On my Fathers side they did come over here and they fought for the Union Army but that's besides the point. I don't like how people are keeping slavery alive in the minds of people and pushing victimhood. I don't think it's good for black people or anyone.

Apologies, this may be a bit of a long read, but I appreciate any help.
I recently picked up a Technics SA-DX930 av receiver (European version with the the optical circuitry) from the late 90's to mess around with in my project setup. To test, I plugged it into my existing TV setup using optical and it worked flawlessly for that...sounds pretty great as well.
However as already mentioned my plan was to use this for my project setup with a turntable, CD player etc, so I moved it there and began testing. Unfortunately this is where a confusing issue presented itself. On all the analog RCA inputs (CD, tape, phono, etc), the right channel is nearly completely dead - just a very low level signal coming through the right channel. I confirmed that this is indeed the right channel wearing headphones and unplugging the connectors one at a time. The issue presents on both A+B speaker outputs as well as the headphone output.
Of course my first reaction was to check the balance control, but the knob does absolutely nothing. This leads me to believe the knob is perhaps faulty and stuck on hard left panning. Judging by the tone circuitry diagram in the service manual it looks to be an analog control, but I hardly know what I'm looking at TBH.
I took the amp to a local technician, and after 2 minutes of messing around with it he claimed the right channel of the amplifier was faulty, and told me to buy a better amp. I didn't believe this to be correct, as I had already used the amp in 5.1 over optical, and all channels were outputting audio flawlessly, after which he claimed it was a blown DSP chip, which he couldn't fix.
Once I got back from the technician, I sat and messed around with the amp a bit more and discovered a bit of a work-around. If I set the DSP mode to surround (with only the front speakers set to large and the rest of the speaker outputs set to off), I get perfectly balanced left and right audio output from all inputs - unplugging the corresponding RCA connector will drop the appropriate side, etc. Of course, this then engages Dolby Prologic, which I'm not too keen on having always engaged, but it works for now. I'm guessing that activating the surround DSP or using the optical inputs bypasses the balance control, but looking at the tone circuit diagram, I'm not sure how that even works, as the treble and bass controls still work fine with these modes.
I'd love to have the amp in proper working order. It's not a audiophile amp by any means, but it sounds good to me and has great power, so I'd like to keep using it. Am I on the right track with the balance control? I would appreciate any advice or suggestions.
EDIT: TLDR - Technics SA-DX930 works without issue on optical inputs. All analog inputs have right channel at extremely low volume. Balance control knob turns but doesn't affect audio in any way. If surround DSP is activated on analog inputs, audio from analog inputs is correctly delivered to outputs.

I’ve got active speakers with an hdmi arc. I would love to send that signal to my Realistic STA77. Honestly don’t know enough about hdmi arc to know if that’s possible. I grasp that it’s an arc that sends the audio back to where it came. And I know for the arc to work it needs arc on both ends. But I also knows there’s a device called an hdmi audio extractor that take an hdmi signal, and converts it to stereo audio into normal rca terminals on the device that I could run into the aux ports of the Realistic.
But I’ve only read people use that hdmi audio extractor taking a tv audio signal and sending it to a vintage receiver. Haven’t been able to find anyone doing it with active speakers and unsure if that’s possible.
What’s getting me confused is that the source for the audio signal will either be the Bluetooth of the active speakers, or aux ports on the active speakers. So I am real unsure, given that type of source, if the hdmi audio extractor will be able to do anything since no source is going to the actives hdmi port.
Any help would be appreciated. I know this sub is for vintage audio, but I think receiver in question qualifies this post. Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone,
I'm having a bit of trouble capture composite video with VirtualDub. When I select my source, I can see the video image and everything works correctly, until I start the video capture, the screen turns black and the captured video is all black. I tried disabling the preview while capturing, it didn't solve the problem. My capture card has an s-video input and TV cable/antenna input. Both work as expected before and during capturing. I tried using an adapter to convert from RCA to S-Video, it works but the image is very blocky and looks bad, while the composite image when displayed looks correct (my VCR has only a composite output).
If I open VDub and the last selected source was composite, the image is black, I have to change it to TV tuner or S-video and then change it back to composite so I can see the image. But if I open the software and the last selected source was something else (the tuner or S-Video) then I can directly see the image, no need to change to something else and go back. I'm using the card's DirectShow as the device.
I know my setup is a bit old and by far not the best, but I'm just trying to capture family tapes in the best way I can, and I figured that since I can see the image but I just lose it when I start capturing then it must be a software issue that I might be able to fix... My setup: LG vlk9320w VCR DVD combo Philips SAA7130 capture card Windows 7 on intel i5 Desktop VirtualDub 1.10.4, and VirtualDub2
I'm trying to make it work with this setup because it's the only one so far that shows me everything that is on the tape and is extremely noise tolerant and doesn't drop frames when encountering noise, it shows me the image exactly as I see it if I were to connect my VCR to the TV. I have a slightly better setup (Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle + TBC + Macbook) but it doesn't allow for much noise.
Thanks in advance.

I’m not 100% sure but in order to do this you need to have the 05-07 Nissan V35 with Navigation Package and possibly the premium Bose system. Also not sure if it will be the same for the US Infiniti G35
I’ve been looking around to find a way to add Bluetooth music streaming for the G without replacing the head unit (plus metra/jdm style fascia) which is very very expensive, using fm transmitter with so much static or buying GROM BT3 for almost AUD$300. Here’s what I found:
Trumpet VQ ( https://youtu.be/WLpWkPo1OqE ) has a tutorial on how to add AUX and later on add Bluetooth connection by soldering an RCA adapter to the TV tuner, connecting it to an aux cable, and in another video using a Bluetooth module with Volt converter. He mentions VTR plug to RCA adapter and something about AVC14 as an easier option rather than soldering. I have been looking for so called VTR plug and it is very hard to find. There is an expensive one called BEAT SONIC AVC14 RCA for Murano which is very expensive AUD$94. Alternatively I found a similar item.
I found a VTR Adapter used for the Nissan Elgrand E51 on Amazon which seems to have the same TV tuner as the G35 ( https://youtu.be/9idsKBODNn8?feature=shared )
So in theory if I connect the VTR to RCA cable to the tuner -> Connect RCA to auxiliary cable -> connect Auxiliary to Bluetooth Transmitter -> connect transmitter to cigarette outlet for power = Better Music streaming. This is all in theory for now until my items arrive to test it out. I will add something to this or remove it if it doesn’t work out.
These are the products I bought on Amazon VTR to RCA Adapter for Nissan Elgrand - https://amzn.asia/d/crZ5hO4

RCA to Aux 5 metre cable - https://amzn.asia/d/hfIsaA1 Aux to Bluetooth - https://amzn.asia/d/bGjTEjk 

Would I need to get a factory remote for this? Or will a modern universal remote work fine? New to this kind of thing.

**What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.**

I'm looking to build a gamin PC for modded strategy games. Specifically I want to play XCOM 2 and RIMWORLD with mods and have a smooth experience. 1080p 60fps is good enough, 4K 60fps is a nice upgrade.

**What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?**

Really looking for something under CAD $1000, but CAD $1250 is my limit.

**When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.**

Within a month.

**What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc\)**

Most likely going to be using a 4k 60hz RCA TV, and a simple keyboard and mouse.

**Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?**

Montreal, Canada

**If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.**

Just my TV.

**Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?**

No

**Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)**

Definitely an SSD.

**Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?**

No preference

**Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?**

I don't own one, but I don't need anything fancy.