Someone gave me this plaque many years ago, and it's the only one of its size I've seen, unless I'm really looking in the wrong place. I didn't use it until I switched to baroque oboe and it's the only one I use - and I only have one! Does anyone know where I can get one of these dimensions? (Sorry for the measurement starting at 1 but I never trust a ruler whose measurement starts at the edge of the instrument)
1/2"x1 1/2" 13x39mm (ish)

I do have fairly good feel of drilling and riveting on aluminum plates so far, measuring with rulers, etc
but zero apprenticeship experience in carpentry
I am turning 35 this year, If I get in I am going to take the job very seriously, i got hard work ethics and is very punctual
What is my chance of being able to make it into the local 27? any advices or tips?
would anybody advise against the idea? cons of the industry? some say on youtube that job can be dangerous at times, etc...
What is the starting wage for someone without any experience and what is the top rate under current CBA?
thank you in advance

Hello! I'm a beginner sewer who recently completed a weekend bootcamp on sewing. I sewed my own dress from scratch with facing on the collar and cuffs. I also learned to hand sew. I have a $300 budget to get set up to machine-sew and hand-sew 100% wool and 100% linen clothing (with some limited silk) for medieval-themed historical re-enactment events. These will be outfits for myself, my elementary-aged children, and occasionally for friends.
This budget does not include cloth or patterns (just tools). I would like to include tailoring/measurement/cutting tools, key reference/learning books (I can check some of these from the library), and beginner tools for simple hand-sewn embroideries, stamping clothes with stencils and paint, and applying wool applique. I'd love to figure out how to make custom cloth-covered buttons as well to match dresses and coats.
Here is what I have on hand already, thanks to hand-me-downs from family and what I had already:

• a Singer XL-400 Futura sewing machine (no embroidery attachment, but I have a pedal).
• a Brother CS-6000i sewing and embroidery machine (with all attachments).
• Multi-color starter kits of thread sets and bobbin sets, plus white, black, and gray thread.
• a dedicated table and chair for sewing and cutting material.
• a decent ironing board, iron, cutting surface sheet, a see-through tailoring ruler, and a few sizes of non-fancy scissors - one from Joann's for cloth.

While I thought $300 would be plenty to get me started, I am already feeling overwhelmed by all the choices for tools available. Like, do I need a curved ruler? Or fancy Kai or Gingher scissors? Or a tool to correctly size collars? Do I need a machine to make cloth-covered buttons, or can I make them more cheaply? Some of these more expensive tools eat up my budget quickly.
Knowing that I'm a beginner, and will (almost) exclusively be sewing (90% machine sewing) with wool and linen to make medieval clothing that are intended to look hand-made, what "essentials" would you recommend I purchase or focus on? What can you not live without now that you've been sewing for years that you think I might need? What's turned out to not be useful? I'll shop around for the best prices on items once I've narrowed down my list. Thank you in advance for your advice!

I recently bought some Bomb Dungarees in size 32. I have several other Outlier pants and shorts I bought a while ago that fit me well (still), in size 30 and 31. I got the new ones in 32 because I'm lifting a bit more now and I wanted to err on the side of larger.
So when I got them I was surprised to find that they were way too small. To be clear, I'm not complaining about them being too tight. My issue is that before ordering, I looked at the size chart, used that as a reference with other pants I have, and measured the ones I got, and they're pretty different from what the chart says.
Here are a few pics and numbers for comparison:
the size chart for Bomb Dungarees on the website
if I understand that right, size 32 should be 12.5 inches, measured at the upper thigh, from the crotch, horizontally to the edge, when the pants are laid flat.
Here's what they look like with a ruler:
pic 1
pic 2
I'm pressing the ruler down to make them lie flat and I lifted the other leg up so I could be as generous as possible (counting additional distance under the pants crotch, which I probably shouldn't), to make it as close to what it should be.
You can see that it's at most 11 inches, and probably even a bit smaller. Since they're lying flat, that means they're actually about 3 inches smaller in circumference. I don't want to sound like I'm nitpicking about fractions of an inch, so note that the smallest size on that chart (size 28) has a measurement (11.5") that's bigger than this. So it seems like the error covers the whole range of sizes.
I don't understand: is there something I'm missing about how we're supposed to measure that? I really like all the other Outlier clothes I've bought but it's strange that a company that's supposedly all about ~technical details~ seems to have one of the main things I need to know to wear the pants wrong. Is this chart just wrong? it's not encouraging that both the top opening and leg opening are labeled "top opening".

In the context of a Battery Pack Modeling Course in Chennai, rulers and protractors serve as fundamental tools for accurate drawing in AutoCAD. They aid in measuring dimensions precisely and setting angles correctly, ensuring that the battery pack models are created with precision and adherence to design specifications.

Have you just bought a new Cricut Maker and are wondering how to use Cricut Maker? This brilliant Cricut machine may be overwhelming for beginners, but it is simpler than you think. You get many amazing features with this crafting machine. Let’s get ready to use it and make creative DIY projects with it. I will tell you how to prepare a desired project using this Cricut cutting machine.
Cricut Maker offers various adaptive features that help you create unique and beautiful projects effortlessly. Plus, you get a slot for inserting pens and a number of Cricut tools and supplies. It will be all fun to create something with this ultimate machine. Here, I’ll tell you the best methods to prepare personalized apparel using Siser EasyColor DTV. You’ll learn more about it later in this blog. So, let’s get started.

Supplies and Tools You Will Need for Your Cricut Project

Before we get started to learn how to use Cricut Maker, you must gather some important accessories. I’m listing all of the best accessories here. Use them and follow my step-by-step instructions to create your own project. Check the steps below.
● Brand new Cricut Maker or Explore
● Siser EasyColor DTV
● Siser Easy Mask
● An inkjet printer
● Cricut StandardGrip mat
● A weeding tool
● A Cricut EasyPress
● A Cricut scraper tool

How to Use Cricut Maker to Make Personalized Apparel?

Finally, we are here to learn the process of creating personalized T-shirts. So, before we move on to the final steps, measure your blank so that you can create an appropriate design. So, let’s check how to use Cricut Maker for beginners.

Step 1: Upload an SVG File to Cricut Design Space

In the first and foremost step, you’ll need to upload your SVG design file to the Cricut software. If you want, you can create a design manually as well. Once you’re ready, just resize your design and make it fit to your blank.
As you’ll have to print this image, ensure that your Cricut machine will recognize it as a printable file and not a file to be cut. To ensure this, choose your image and hit the Flatten option beneath the Layers Panel.
After that, your Cricut machine will show a preview of the image. When you’re ready, just click the Make It button. And now, this design will go through a Print Then Cut feature. To access it, hit the Continue button.
In the next step, you’re allowed to send that image to your inkjet printer and select the paper type you want to print on. I prefer specialty matte. You can select one based on your printer. Get ready with your printer and insert the Siser EasyColor DTV into it.

Step 2: Start Cutting the Siser EasyColor DTV

In the following step, you’ll need to cut your material. On your Cricut machine, select your material as Premium Vinyl Permanent Glossy and set the pressure to More using the drop-down menu.
Next, load your vinyl material on the Cricut mat at the left-side corner and make it stick to the mat using a brayer tool. Now, load the mat with vinyl into the Cricut machine and hit the Play button to allow your Cricut to cut the image. Continue with the steps to learn how to use Cricut Maker.
Once the cut is done, take off the paper sheet from your mat, turn the mat over, and take the mat away from your DTV. Please note that you don’t have to peel off the DTV from the mat. You can also use a pair of scissors to cut the design if necessary.

Step 3: Weed Out the Excess Vinyl

Once you cut your design, you should weed out the excess vinyl from your design. Do this carefully, so that your design doesn’t ruin. This step will add more detail to your project.
Note: DTV material is light and fragile and can easily be pulled back from the sheet. Hence, you may need to cover it with a mask to prevent it from pulling away and not sticking again.

Step 4: Cover Your Image With a Mask

Since, you know that your design needs a mask to prevent itself from damage. I’ll recommend you to use the Siser EasyMask. Although, I struggled a bit, but soon I grasped the trick to use it.
Moving forward, cut your mask to the size of your design. Now, take off the transparent film from the mask and then apply the mask alone to your DTV image. Moreover, ensure that the final design is flat and that there are no air gaps between the mask and the design.
Afterward, scrape off the final design using a scraper tool. Use that tool on both sides of your design and then peel it away from your design.

Step 5: Transfer Your Design to Apparel

Then, you have your design covered with a transfer mask. It’s time to preheat your apparel using an EasyPress to a temperature of 340 F. To prevent your apparel from excessive heating, you can take a pillow and use it between the garment layers. After that, preheat your apparel for about 15 seconds before you finally transfer the design.
After preheating, you can add the final design on your onesie. Plus, again apply heating for 30 seconds, and this time you’ll finally transfer the design. After pressing the design for sometime, take away the mask sheet from the apparel. Make sure that your vinyl sticks perfectly to the apparel.
This design is so amazing; I love making it. This is how to use Cricut Maker to reap good results. All the best to all of you who are keen to make something unique and precise.

FAQs

How to Use a Cricut Maker to Make Shirts?

To create a shirt with your Cricut cutting machine, you’ll need to use the Cricut Design Space and a heating press to create a desired design. Get started with the Cricut software, make a design, resize it, and then print and cut it with your Cricut machine. Now, weed away the excess vinyl, and then preheat it with your Cricut heat press, and give a final heat to it.

Which Heat Press Is Suitable for Making an Iron-on Cricut Project?

As there are many options to create an iron-on Cricut project, you can use any of them depending on your requirements. So, the common machines are Cricut EasyPress, Cricut EasyPress 2 & 3, Cricut EasyPress Mini, etc. You can utilize a heat press to transfer the design to your apparel effortlessly.

Can You Use Regular Iron With a Cricut Machine?

Yes, you can. A regular iron is also effective for your minimalist iron-on projects. However, a regular iron may not deliver the results you want and not give a permanent design. Overall, we can say you can use a household iron for normal, sensitive projects but not for complex projects.
Read more: install cricut design space app
cricut.com/setup
cricut.com/setup mac
Source: How to Use Cricut Maker

I know this has been restated a million times here, but I will be discussing slavery and how one cannot look at the Bible and say that it is a perfect judge for morality.
Roman slaves were chattel slaves
I've seen a common defense from apologists being something along the lines of, "But the slaves in the Bible were all indentured..."
This is a flat out lie.
In Paul's letters to Ephesians, he states, in Ephesians 6:5-9: ^{5 "}Slaves, obey your earthly masters with respect and fear, and with sincerity of heart, just as you would obey Christ. ⁶ Obey them not only to win their favor when their eye is on you, but as slaves of Christ, doing the will of God from your heart. ⁷ Serve wholeheartedly, as if you were serving the Lord, not people, ⁸ because you know that the Lord will reward each one for whatever good they do, whether they are slave or free.
⁹ And masters, treat your slaves in the same way. Do not threaten them, since you know that he who is both their Master and yours is in heaven, and there is no favoritism with him."
This is in reference to Roman slaves, which were chattel slaves.
The causes of slavery consisted of taking prisoners of war, birth into slavery (two biggest causes), debt (for non-citizens), punishment for crime, enslavers finding children abandoned by their parent, etc.
Below, you will see how Roman slaves were treated.
'Above all, however, slave bodies were tortured and physically abused, even unto death, with no consequences for masters. Plautus’ second century BCE plays regularly feature slaves terrified over an impending whipping, a trope that was meant to elicit laughs from the audience. Similarly disturbing insouciance about physical abuse is found in the epigrams of the first century CE poet Martial: “You think me cruel and too fond of my stomach, Rusticus, because I beat my [enslaved] cook on account of a dinner. If that seems to you a trivial reason for lashes, for what reason then do you want a cook to be flogged?”³⁸ And assaults were often much worse than a beating. The physician Galen speaks of his experience of masters, including his own mother, biting their slaves or gouging out their eye with a writing stylus.³⁹ Ultimately, the master could even kill his slaves with impunity. This he sometimes did by contract, especially through the brutal punishment of crucifixion. An inscription of Puteoli (modern Pozzuoli) lays out prices set by a company that specialized in torturing and crucifying slaves on contract, allowing the master to hire out this messy and physically demanding affair to specialized professionals.⁴⁰ Here again Constantine became uneasy with this level of violence and issued a law forbidding the deliberate killing of slaves in 319 CE, but in a subsequent law he granted tremendous leeway for masters who happened to kill a slave in the course of “corrective punishment.”'
'Even when slaves were not openly abused, they lived in constant fear of violence. They also lived in a world of “natal alienation,” which meant that they were permanent outsiders, excluded from civic or political rights and privileges, excluded from control over their own birth families and offspring, and excluded from final control over their very bodies and personhood. Their names could be assigned to them by a master and could be changed at any time, particularly when they were sold to a new master. Their children could be exposed or sold by their master at will. And they themselves could be liquidated for their cash value at any moment. We have evidence of this process from multiple sources which reveal enslaved persons intended for sale were usually stripped down to a loincloth, displayed on a raised platform (catasta), made to wear a garland if they were war captives and/or marked with chalk on their feet if they were imported from overseas, their “defects” (disabilities, diseases, habits) were publicly proclaimed on placards hung round their necks, and they were subject to humiliating physical inspections by potential buyers (Fig. 5.3).⁴² They were, in other words, treated in the manner of livestock at market, with all of the attendant dehumanization and degradation.'
https://link.springer.com/chapte10.1007/978-3-031-13260-5_5
In Exodus, it gives rules for what you can and cannot do with your slaves.
Exodus 21:20-21: ²⁰ “Anyone who beats their male or female slave with a rod must be punished if the slave dies as a direct result, ²¹ but they are not to be punished if the slave recovers after a day or two, since the slave is their property."
This could be applied to the Gentile chattel slaves in Leviticus 25:44-46: ⁴⁴ “‘Your male and female slaves are to come from the nations around you; from them you may buy slaves. ⁴⁵ You may also buy some of the temporary residents living among you and members of their clans born in your country, and they will become your property. ⁴⁶ You can bequeath them to your children as inherited property and can make them slaves for life, but you must not rule over your fellow Israelites ruthlessly."
However, this essentially means that the only rule for the owning of slaves would be that you may not kill them (at least in Exodus -- other rules for slave owners are communicated later in the Bible).
The Bible condoning slavery
The Bible mentioning slavery without condemnation (when the culture widely accepts it) is absolutely evidence that it supports it. Especially given the Bible's own ethical stance about not rebuking your neighbor for their sins being hating them in your heart (Leviticus 19:17).
Further, the New Testament welcomed slaveholders into the church and told them how to carry out their acts of enslavement in a Christlike manner: Ephesians 6:5-9. Paul was extremely clear about allowing people who habitually sinned into the church-fornicators, drunkards, covetous people, etc. Christians weren't even supposed to eat with those people: 1 Corinthians 5:9-12. Imagine if Paul welcomed adulterers into the church, didn't condemn their behavior and told them how to carry out their acts of adultery in a Godly manner? Or if he told Mafia style extortionists how to carry out their acts of extortion in a kind and Christlike manner? No, Paul and the Bible in general do not see owning chattel slaves (which is what Roman slaves were) as wrong. They see treating them badly as wrong, but they do not see owning them as sinful.
Regarding comparisons to slavery in the south, the Bible does not teach equality of social status and OT slavery was somewhat of an improvement over ANE slavery, but that doesn't prove God opposes slavery. The south improved their regulations on mistreating slaves over time, and some states had "better" laws than others. That does not mean those legislatures were composed of abolitionists. It just means they thought there should be some regulations on how brutally you can punish the most defenseless members of society -- just like in Exodus 21:20-21 and Exodus 21:26-27.
However, some will argue on the basis of the Torah. Mosaic law is considered a reliable guide to righteous conduct (Psalm 19:7-11, 2 Timothy 3:16). You can think that this is righteous conduct for the time -- but if chattel slavery was righteous conduct for the time, it cannot be inherently wrong. And the burden would be on you to explain to a southerner why whatever rationale you give for why chattel slavery was ok in the OT (and not to mention Roman chattel slavery in the NT) would not apply to southern slavery.
Also, again, the Bible goes out of its way to encourage masters to physically discipline their slaves in Proverbs 29:19. We know this is encouraging beating, because it denies that slaves can be disciplined by words, and we know from Exodus that beating is how slaves were disciplined. We also know that the Bible thinks that slaves tended to be considered to often be fools (Proverbs 11:29) and that beating is recommended as a way of dealing with fools (Proverbs 26:3, Proverbs 10:13, Proverbs 19:29). There is very little doubt that this is what the Bible is encouraging. We can compare this to the Roman Stoic philosopher Seneca who argued that masters should only discipline their slaves by lashing them with the tongue (Moral Letters to Lucilius 47:19). Proverbs 29:19 could have been written as a rebuke of what Seneca said. If God was just accommodating hardened hearts, why would he go out of his way to encourage this, when even a Roman philosopher thought slaves should not be treated the way the Bible advocates?
https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Moral_letters_to_Lucilius/Letter_47
Women being seen as similar to slaves
"Wives and apprentices are slaves; not in theory only, but often in fact."
-George Fitzhugh, Sociology for the South (1854), Pg. 86.
"The husband has a legally recognized property in his wife's service, and may legally control, in some measure, her personal liberty. She is his property and his slave.
The wife also has a legally recognized property in the husband's services. He is her property, but not her slave."
-George Fitzhugh, Cannibals All!: Or Slaves Without Masters (1857), Page 341.
"But other consequences follow from the abolitionist dogmas. 'All involuntary restraint is a sin against natural rights,' therefore laws which give to husbands more power over the persons and property of wives, than to wives over husbands, are iniquitous, and should be abolished. The same decision must be made upon the exclusion of women, whether married or single, from suffrage, office, and the full franchises of men. There must be an end of the wife's obedience to her husband. Is it said that these subordinations are consistent, because women assent to them voluntarily, in consenting to become wives ? This plea is insufficient, because the female sex is impelled to marriage by irresistible laws of their nature and condition."
-Robert Dabney, A Defense of Virginia (1867), Pg. 265.
“The parent has the right to the service of his child; he has a property in the service of that child. A husband has a right of property in the service of his wife; he has the right to the management of his household affairs. The master has a right of property in the service of his apprentice. All these rights rest upon the same basis as a man's right of property in the service of slaves.”
-Rep. Chilton A. White, The Congressional Globe (1865), Part 1, Pg. 215.
https://books.google.com/books?id=Xrs-AAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
Google Books
The Congressional Globe
Just as slaves were in some respects considered both property and people, the same is true of women -- in both the 1800's and in the Bible. Exodus 20:17 prohibits coveting your neighbors wife, but not your neighbor's husband for a reason. Because on some level, women were seen as property, even if they have some rights and weren't viewed as being in a completely shameful role.
Kidnapping
Kidnapping is going to be a key term. If you consider one nation/tribe going to war with another nation/tribe and taking men, women and children as slaves to be kidnapping, then Roman slavery was heavily based on kidnapping. If you don't, then a lot of the trans Atlantic Slave Trade victims wouldn't be kidnapped either, since that's how many of them were acquired.
"As a concomitant of the rise and fall of various African rulers and ruling parties, their political opponents, people of high social status, and their families were sold to promote internal political stability. Poor people were sold to reconcile debts owed by themselves or their families. Chiefs sold people as punishment for crimes. Gangs of Africans and a few marauding Europeans captured free Africans who were also sold into slavery. Domestic slaves were resold and prisoners of war were sold. However, Boahen, an African scholar, asserts, 'The greatest sources to supply slaves were raids conducted for the sole purpose of catching men for sale and above all, inter-tribal and inter-state wars which produced thousands of war captives, most of whom found their way to the New World (Boahen 1966:110).'" (See the section: "Who was enslaved and Why").
https://www.nps.gov/ethnography/aah/aaheritage/histcontextsc.htm
The article discussed the widespread societal harm to African societies. I do want to make that clear, it did not promote internal stability. I quoted that part solely for the sake of making the point about war. I see this as kidnapping.
Some other things:
Just in case you appeal to 1 Timothy 1:10 as a prohibition of slavery:
https://youtu.be/N7A-VSIt1jg?si=YUYuBEd6buta56Cn
And just in case you want to appeal to Deuteronomy 23:15-16 as a requirement to not return escaped slaves (TLDR: it only applies to foreign owned slaves who escaped to Israel -- according to most Christian commentators):
https://biblehub.com/commentaries/deuteronomy/23-15.htm

I'm assuming this is raccoon, but since we do have coyotes (and the occasional loose dog) I want to be sure. Whatever used the indentation to poop used it a second time the next night, which as I understand it is also raccoon behavior.
(Rulers were laser cut out of some scrap as I was standing there next to my laser cutter, wondering what I could put down to measure. Everything was cleaned up while wearing gloves and picking up dog poop bag style)

Hi everyone! So, as the title says, I'm on the hunt for a partner who's interested in a dark, medieval-fantasy romance! I'm hoping to find someone who won't shy away from world-building, complex and emotional stories, and generally just going beyond the "basic" tropes. Aside from that, you'll need to be 18+ for obvious reasons, semi-literate at minimum, and able to use discord. For myself, I'm 20 years old, and I do my best to be a highly flexible writer! Whether you prefer first or third person, one paragraph or five, we'll be able to write together.
Now, I'm not searching for a particular plot at the moment. I find that it's best to create something together, and I enjoy offering my partner the opportunity to play whatever character they'd like! I don't want to write for you or tell you who to be, so that will be entirely up to you. You're welcome to play anything from the lowliest peasant to the most powerful of deities, so long as we can craft an interesting story together. I already have a concept for a single nation in the world, alongside the character I intend to play.
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Koscheva is a nation that few would ever wish to visit. The Koschevan society is one of heavy imbalance, ruled by a small upper class of vampires, yet the society is built on the backs of the human majority, who are viewed as little more than slaves by their rulers. With most of its settlements nestled deep into frigid mountain ranges, the economy is almost entirely built around mines that extend deep underground. Humans are forced to toil day and night, watched over by those in the lower rungs of the vampiric nobility, but also humans who have ascended from mere servitude, entrusted to keep their former peers in line in exchange for some semblance of comfort.
The nobility itself is stereotypically hedonistic and self-absorbed, though that stereotype is almost entirely based on the eldest among the nobility, the highest even among the ruling class. The politics differ greatly from what may be viewed as "normal" in other societies, notably due to the near-permanence of its members... vampires don't age, after all! Political maneuvering often involves long and complex schemes that may last dozens of years for little perceptible gain. To most, nearly everything moves at an agonizing pace, but to a lord or lady who has enjoyed their position for a hundred years, a single year seems like nothing.
Unsurprisingly their political relations are often strained and tense, but they hardly feel threatened by their neighbors. Their position over the richest mines on the continent affords them a cushion of safety, purely due to the reliance on their exports. Even if they were to be attacked, their frigid landscape means that any military campaign would be devastating for even the most prepared armies.
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And I intend to play a vampire of Koscheva! A young (by vampiric standards) knight who sits at the bottom of the nobility. His position in the kingdom's small standing military would be considered a curse to many, giving him few options for advancement compared to most. But for him, it seems more like a blessing. He lacks the hyper-focused political ambition that the cutthroat lower nobility has become famous for, and he's instead settled into his position with little effort to ascend to a higher status. His attitude has earned him a measure of respect among the kingdom's martial circles, yet it has also put him at odds with most others.
{}{}{}
And.. I could go further into developing details for both Koscheva and our knight, but I'd like to leave it there for now! I want both descriptions to be left vague enough that we can develop our own story, after all! And that story can take nearly any form, depending on what would interest you. I'm more than happy to hear out your ideas, or to help fill in the world and design a character that will interest the both of us! The concept and writing in here is probably a bit of a mess, given that I wrote it just now.. but of course it takes time to create a refined idea!
While I intend for this to involve romance and smuttier scenes, I don't want that to be all we do! I'd love to put a pretty heavy emphasis on the action and intrigue within the world! Whether that means this is set in an era of peace and prosperity, or the continent falling apart into a war-torn wasteland. I'd love to discuss this more personally, so please don't hesitate to reach out if you're even remotely interested!

I purchased my SV07 roughly 9 months ago and it has gotten continuous usage since. These are my thoughts on the printer after having it and using it for long enough, that I've gotten extremely comfortable with it. I will post the caveat that this is my first 3D printer, but I did do enough research that I knew going into this, how to properly setup, operate and adjust a printer of this type.
Initially, I had a lot of trouble with my printer. It had a bent hot-end out of the box, and while Sovol support was relatively quick to offer suggestions and help me fix it, they never actually offered to send a replacement hot-end. Ultimately it made very little difference in how the printer operated, it just required slight tweaking to actually account for the slightly different nozzle orifice position. That said, the printer needed lots (and I mean lots) of adjustment and calibration out of the box. Its initial prints were horrible and one by one, I had to dial in nearly every component of the printer, down to adjusting wheel tension and remounting parts. For example, the gantry-mounted parts-fan clipped the edge of the extruder every time it went past it. I wouldn't call it a crash, but it definitely was impacting, so I had to install spacers to make it fit.
The SV07 is the first 3D printer I've purchased, so I can't make any direct comparisons to the work required to setup other printers, but based on what I've seen from Youtube videos, it looks like it required quite a bit more effort than would be considered acceptable for most printers out of the box. However, once adjusted, the printer is fully capable of making some high-quality prints, as long as you're willing to work around its flaws.
The first major hurdle to quality prints that I encountered, was the bed-plate. It warps, badly. Like a taco. This isn't fixable without entirely replacing it with a custom bed-plate option, but I have been able to greatly work around it through a few different means which I'll cover. However, my other issue was consistency. Out of the box, the bed couldn't maintain a consistent level mid-print. As the minutes ticked by, different parts of the bed would begin to drift, causing prints to be horribly inconsistent. This fix was fortunately no more difficult than disassembling and reassembling the bed with care, and then finely tuning the bed with the adjustable spring mounts. I cannot say for sure, but I believe the issue was actually caused by the mounting hardware being able to shift and rotate relative to the bed as it heated and cooled, despite everything appearing tight and properly assembled, causing the bed to drift. Reassembling likely fixed this issue just by the nature of taking it apart and putting it back together with the proper tensions. I still operate my printer with the adjustable bed even though I never need to adjust it now, as I've never been able to get the fixed mounts to stay consistent. They just don't work, or at least I have never been able to make them work.
As for the taco problem, I've managed to work around it by using dynamic bed-meshing to get more precise measurements and per-object printing wherever I can, to really narrow in the bed-mesh to just the exact points on the bed I actually need to use. The bed on the SV07 will never be perfect, but with a lot of work, I did make it usable and consistent. However, large prints--especially large, flat prints that take up much of the bed, will never be great. There's just too much warping on the bed to print this way. So for anyone expecting to use an SV07 to print wall-art from Printables--sorry, probably not going to get good results.
The next major hurdle I faced was the software. The version of Klipper and Fluidd the printer shipped with was ancient and I encountered a lot of issues reliability wise. My KlipperScreen would crash or detach from Fluidd with regularity, so I could print from my computer, but the screen would be in an error mode or blank entirely. Eventually Sovol released a firmware update which changed over to Mainsail and most of these issues went away, but I found a whole slew of new issues, directly related to how old the software/firmware was. Issues like no print stats or preview images because slicers no longer output compatible gcode for these features with the version the printer was running. Unable to use some Klipper extensions because my Klipper was too far out of date, things such as these. It was a lot of work, but ultimately I fixed it by manually updating the software and firmware myself, taking great care to make backups and buying spare EMMC modules so I could easily play around with the updates and only need to roll-back a single step or two when something went wrong. The final step I need to take but have been unable to make work, is expanding the flashed image to make use of the entire EMMC module (I have a 32GB card installed). I've been unable to expand the partition without reformatting, but have been unable to actually get the printer to work with a fully fresh install. Technically I'm still running the original image, just all manually updated. As an aside, I wish there was an easy way to make use of additional storage on the machine. I can't seem to find any detailed instructions on how to add a second virtual SDCard I can use to store gcode files, that works properly on this printer. Any attempt to address the onboard SDCard slot or a USB drive as a virtual card doesn't work. I know this is nothing more than me not configuring it correctly, but I can't believe out of the entire community, no one has shared how (that I've been able to find, anyhow).
Then comes reliability. According to my Mainsail stats page (which obviously doesn't cover the entire time I've had the printer, because of the software/firmware updates and all), I have 425 hrs of print-time on this machine over 407 different prints. In this time, I've had to rebuild or replace most parts at least once. The v-wheels even when properly adjusted, don't last long without heavily wearing. I'm actually quite happy with how well they work, but they are certainly a high-wear, high-replacement item. Using air and a vacuum to cleanup all the plastic fuzz they leave everywhere is certainly a required regular maintenance procedure. My entire extruder assembly has certainly seen some maintenance as well. All the original plastic parts are damaged or destroyed. The holder for the probe is cracked entirely through, the extruder fans have warped over time, the extruder ribbon-cable has worn through and now has a drag-chain to prevent destroying it, etc.. The reality is that I bought this printer knowing it was inexpensive and that meant parts were likely to fail on it, and that has been entirely my experience with it. The factory parts simply aren't up to heavy usage--they will fail.
My final thoughts boiled down, are that the printer is good value for what it costs, but it shouldn't be your workhorse if you actually need a reliable printer you don't need to constantly tinker with and work on. I believe there are considerably better offerings if you're willing to go even slightly higher in price-point, but the sweet-spot for this printer seems to be that it's the cheapest good printer you can buy. What I mean by that, is that you cannot buy another printer for this price or less, that will be capable of printing parts to the same quality as this one. Make no mistake, for its faults, the SV07, when adjusted, calibrated, properly modified and its flaws taken into account, can make some stellar prints. But you will work for these prints. So knowing everything I know now, would I still buy it? No. Absolutely not. Not even a consideration. I could have spent another $100 and gotten much more printer, elsewhere. SOVOL is also very bad about properly honoring their open-source commitments and given how they setup the software and firmware in a way that makes it hard to update away from their own updates, I would like to be outside of their ecosystem. But the SV07 does have its place and I am happy I have it available as a printer.

It seems like most people recommend a ruler rather than a measuring tape but I don’t feel like a ruler accurately captures the length of a dick with a substantial curve (for me, it curves up and to the left). Any thoughts? (Especially from fellow curved gang members lol)

I’ve been having an absolute blast with Hades 2! I’m well over a dozen hours in, and it’s awesome so far. I’m starting to unlock most items, mechanics and whatnot, and i’ve reached the final boss maybe 5-6 times, and beat him once. But i’ve seen a lot of complaining about the final boss, old grandpa Chronos.
And you know what?
Chronos is a pain in the ass. He has attacks very similar to eachother in windup, you can’t pause, and he ignores your time-slowing arcana.
I love it
He’s strong. And you know what? He should be. This isn’t Hades going a little easy on his son Zagreus, who’s being a tiny bit rebellious.
This is the Titan of Time, the father of the main Olympians and the ruler before Zeus. If anything, I see Chronos a lot more like EM4 Hades. Imagine how many runs we’d all have to do in the OG Hades if our dad was going all out from the start!
Devs, please don’t make Chronos any easier. He is perfect the way he is, with practicalæy no exception. The only change I could agree with is a slightly different animation for his sickle swing and his 9000 degrees glowing beyblade throw. Oh, and also fix the spawned rats from Satyrs being nearly invisible.
All in all, i’ve managed to beat this old fart once, and it was with all three death defiances, a monster build and at 20HP, after learning most of his attacks. It was utterly exhilarating.
So now I I go back to beat grandpa some more, chasing that same high of the first win, and wait eagerly for his Extreme Measures fight so I can get rekt some more.
Good luck to my fellow people diving into Hades 2, and watch out for Chronos cursing you IRL and suddenly it’s 2am and you need sleep.

First, you will need the material and tool.
https://preview.redd.it/aks1ks98rszc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c2d71d94a0d3adaeecf5b1dcf7e9e802c5bcf46

• leather

mine was 1/8 (4mm), it was necessary to be stiff to absorb the shock without collapsing and it was what i have on hand. if like me you didn't knew where to buy it, ask your local shoemaker, mine wasn't selling it but direct me to a seller on Facebook marketplace. my leather of 4"x7" cost me 100$Canadian.

• plywood

it will be your work surface, your straight line and your square. mine was 36" x 16"

• plier

it will be useful to thread the needle thru a hole if it is too hard. mostly use when you there is already a thread and you need a second pass in the same hole.

• waxed thread

buy the one you like, 150D seems a good gauge. the bigger, the harder to double thread.

• needle

don't buy the leather needle, they are way to big, mine were breaking too often. go to a sewing shop and look for what ever quality needle you can pass the thread to it's eye but small enough to not fight against the leather hole.

• drill bit

i can't remember the size....1/16??? as long as you can easily go thru the hole
https://preview.redd.it/fadtaa8l0tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc2556d88e53225e6045d49bc866a483332f172e
with the needle on single pass. you are fine

• leather dye

what ever you like but be careful to not buy something that will stain (wet or dry) your bag

• pencil
• ruler
• measuring tape
• utility knife

https://preview.redd.it/fz7egtn4wszc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad3405107ae0eaa7d17da7b4b26088cb56cedfec
https://preview.redd.it/ktacfe7p1tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c44e12c0b2a15c855d01b86521e9aec6474dfa1

• contact cement

it will help you glue together the leather than make some hole and sew it nice and easy. be careful of extra glue seeping out or it will show and will not correctly dye

• i don't know the name of this pliers in English. very useful to keep in place while the glue is drying

https://preview.redd.it/fadtaa8l0tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc2556d88e53225e6045d49bc866a483332f172e
to find the proper size of my sleeve, i did wrap my laptop with leather and mark the length used to wrap it. don't forget the extra length to overlap to sew it together! i forgot the exact measurement. i did the process again and it gave me 25" had an other 1/2 to take it in and out smoothly plus 3/4 overlap. we have grand total of 26" 1/4 (25" + 1/2 extra loose + 3/4 overlap)
the height will be to your taste. mine is at a diagonal to easily grab my laptop in and out, to make it easier to put it in one corner and slide in. and to somewhat protect the top corner (graphic card side). to put a number on that 15" x 11"3/4 of the cylinder sleeve, not the flat piece of leather.
https://preview.redd.it/bokmqh9n6tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e010acf9caba3575141837751f4879b1e5c5a310
https://preview.redd.it/j77g9iyn6tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e6caecf7a027f5cc984701e9a6b77049205ce22
https://preview.redd.it/rr54aqpo6tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=681668f6b5818c3c54df90b134ffff0e8386e5da
once you glued the overlap and it is dry, put your laptop in and measure how much of a diagonal you want. keep in mind, you need your laptop 1" off the base to sew your bottom piece of leather. like i say earlier, 15" top to bottom will fit your FW16 (14" wide) laptop perfect than 11"3/4 the short end. mark where the hole will be with a ruler and make hole at even and short distance (not too short to rip the leather while sewing) with your drill. sew your double thread (2 parallel thread) and sew back on the last 4 hole for extra durability (tug on your thread, you don't want it loose). Do not sew further than where your diagonal will go ( you don"t want to cut your continuous thread). To cut a diagonal, use you pencil and mark where you will cut, than use a utility knife over your plywood, it is much easier and safer to do multiple light pass to cut your leather.
here is the technique i use to sew leather https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFDo-dtr9mk
https://preview.redd.it/egfsedwz6tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=908027b5a5c36b334fcc4c8abd7a39deb78b53e4
OK. you have a cylinder now! you need to cut and install the bottom piece of leather. cut a piece of 10" 7/8 x 3"
it will represent 1" of side wall X 1" bottom laptop support X 1" of side wall. glue one wall and start to sew at 1/8 from the bottom. second thread, sew it at 1" from the bottom. do the same on the other side. easy to say but hard on your finger.
https://preview.redd.it/67m8ed688tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=285b4867ba96eda2e2cfa4ef77a00aadbf3014c1
congrats, you have a bear bone laptop sleeve.
now you need to mold your laptop to fit in. don't be scare but, your sleeve will be wet with your laptop in it for hours.
https://preview.redd.it/y8t88ryn8tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec8dfedd427d8ad0a5ee7064222ab51f5be7e3bb
put your sleeve in the sink and drench it with water. go to town! dry up the excess water, put your laptop in a thin but safe garbage bag (fold and tape your garbage bag for nicer result) than put you laptop in the sleeve. with your finger force the leather to take the laptop shape than compress it between with towel and book to dry while being compressed.
https://preview.redd.it/kxk6bd4j9tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d732a2a7767363599d32176305e71d91d0d2268
once it did take the shape of the laptop and is humid, put it in front of a fan or a dehumidifier and let it dry, remove the laptop and let it dry even more.
https://preview.redd.it/kxbzjjry9tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3309842f87e73f007146283da5fa9a6725f91f4f
https://preview.redd.it/symc9sxz9tzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c3b7e5fa79c4fc4a140e96490584e1047d20cf8
https://preview.redd.it/3fqrzqo0atzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bd0a47e8b210921bf610b3d514c672042801496
don't put your laptop in the wrong orientation like i did in this picture, you want the laptop to always be in the same position from now on.
https://preview.redd.it/q0fdmox7atzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eb86e8d5033ee5d0b6fb087b64b8303c04d52180
find some leather dye, put multiple light coat with a clean rag. enjoy!
https://preview.redd.it/w0uemypeatzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95ad20e6e458fda55efa9d782885e44a11122d38
https://preview.redd.it/8mlefe2fatzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a35a76d9810b878f0c6333d1eb072487bfb6ed3f
https://preview.redd.it/9rnysbdfatzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0f1a78b66505ff8409f32cb2f4951c0aeb07507
https://preview.redd.it/hghjk6ofatzc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=174219d8475f62139677a89142be9cab4bb33e53

• after 2 months of use. it feel so good to put the laptop in the sleeve IF the sleeve stay in the bag. on it's own, the sleeve buckle because it is too soft other wise in the bag, it is perfect.
• i wouldn't go tighter ( it is not a gun in a holster or a tool secured in a leather pouch). you want it to be wide enough to smoothly take your laptop in and out. same measurement is good and bigger is OK, but not tighter.
• the bottom shifted a bit, it doesn't look really good but doesn't affect the main purpose of the sleeve. absorb bottom impact. the sleeve stand just fine with the laptop,
• it is very gentle on the plastic and metal and haven't seen wear mark.

important to notice! your laptop might not fit in your backpack with 1 extra inch at the bottom.
that's it :)