One owner John Deere model number: 7775 diesel skidsteer. Machine has around 3500 hours but the diesel engine that was replaced new from John Deere dealership under warranty only has approximately 1000 hours. Doesn’t need any major repairs only someone who has the basic knowledge on how to get it running after no use for 2+ years. Stored away and kept out of weather. It has been sitting for 2 & 1/2 years but ran Exellent when last used. Bought new machine & was going to keep it for a back up but plan on purchasing another new machine. Machine is a 2000 or 2001 but is a very dependable and powerful machine. Other than the Warrenty engine replaced by my dealership I’ve had no major problems with this machine. Never abused owner operator. Looking to get $11.500 but if you help me getting it running I’m willing to negotiate. It should only take some minor repairs like a battery and some maintenance and possible troubleshooting like fuses, relays etc. & nothing major. Has a factory low profile bucket with removable tooth bar, (Two Bolts & 5 minutes to remove & install.) Has a brand new seat. Photos available on request.
Call and ask for Dave. (781)985-0428 Weymouth Massachuttes, 20 minutes south of Boston off of Route 3 south which is off of Route 93.

Does anyone know where to buy a vertical shaft diesel engine? I am looking to put it on a Toro timemaster 30" mower.
This winter I diesel swapped my snowblower with a yanmar clone and it was well worth the effort (pretty fun and easy project, and never have to clean the carb again), i'd like to do a mower, just for fun and to complete the total changeover of my outdoor equipment to diesel.
I know Hatz makes a vertical shaft diesel 1B40V and similar models, but I don't know where to get one in the US. Anyone have some old piece of broken equipment with this motor on it? Or know where to look? Any other vertical shaft diesels? My research hasn't turned up many other options

Overview and Scope The small marine engines refer to any nonroad engines that is or will be put on a marine vessel that is small in size and is referred to as a marine engines. This only applies to mobile auxiliary marine engines if the vessel also houses the engines's fueling, cooling, and exhaust systems.
Sizing and Forecast The small marine engines market size has grown strongly in recent years. It will grow from $7.9 billion in 2023 to $8.39 billion in 2024 at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.3%. The growth in the historic period can be attributed to increased leisure travel, government regulations, replacement market, boat manufacturing trends, economic prosperity, innovation in fuel efficiency..
The small marine engines market size is expected to see strong growth in the next few years. It will grow to $10.51 billion in 2028 at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.8%. The growth in the forecast period can be attributed to rising disposable income, shift towards electric propulsion, global expansion of fishing industry, environmental sustainability, urbanization and marina development, climate change impact.. Major trends in the forecast period include integration of advanced technologies, rising popularity of electric propulsion, market consolidation and strategic alliances, global economic factors, customization and personalization..
To access more details regarding this report, visit the link: https://www.thebusinessresearchcompany.com/report/small-marine-engines-global-market-report
Segmentation & Regional Insights The small marine engines market covered in this report is segmented –
1) By Model: Gasoline, Diesel, Electric 2) By Displacement: Up to 2 L, 2-4 L, 4-6 L 3) By Placement: Outboard, Inboard, Other Placements 4) By Application: Recreational Boats, Support Vessels, Coastal Boats, Fishing Boats, Other Applications
North America was the largest region in the small marine engines market in 2023. Asia-Pacific is expected to be the fastest-growing region in the small marine engines market report during the forecast period. The regions covered in the small marine engines market report are Asia-Pacific, Western Europe, Eastern Europe, North America, South America, Middle East, Africa.
Intrigued to explore the contents? Secure your hands-on sample copy of the report: https://www.thebusinessresearchcompany.com/sample.aspx?id=7944&type=smp
Major Driver Impacting Market Growth Increasing fishing activity is expected to propel the small marine engines market going forward. Any activity directly connected to the capture or processing of fish or shellfish for initial commercial sale or personal dietary needs is referred to as fishing. The use of outboard engines will be aided by the rising sales of small and medium-sized boats for fishing and leisure purposes. For instance, according to a report by fishing daily, an Ireland-based news website for the Irish and UK fishing industries, in 2021 there was an 11% rise in sea fish and shellfish landings, with a real increase of £54 million ($ 52.02 million) and a real increase of 38 thousand tonnes. Also, fishing vessels registered in Scotland landed 437 thousand tonnes of sea fish and shellfish worth £542 million ($52.50 million) in 2021. Therefore, increasing fishing activity is driving demand for the small marine engines market.
Key Industry Players Major companies operating in the small marine engines market report are Yamaha Motor Co. Ltd., Yanmar Marine International B.V., Brunswick Corporation, Suzuki Motor Corporation, Honda Motor Co. Ltd., Alcatel-Lucent SA, AT&T Inc., Commscope Inc., Telefonaktiebolaget LM Ericsson, Verizon Communications Inc., Anixter International Inc., Cobham Limited, Corning Incorporated, TE Connectivity Limited, Harris Communications, Nokia Corporation, Belkin International, Cisco Systems Inc., Belden Incorporated, Nexans SA, Amphenol Corporation, Caterpillar Inc., Cummins Inc., Hyundai Heavy Industries Co. Ltd, MAN Energy Solutions, Mercury Marine, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Ltd, Rolls Royce plc, Volvo Penta of the Americas Inc., Wärtsilä Corporation, Greaves Cotton Limited
The small marine engines market report table of contents includes:

1. Executive Summary
2. Market Characteristics
3. Market Trends And Strategies
4. Impact Of COVID-19
5. Market Size And Growth
6. Segmentation
7. Regional And Country Analysis . . .
8. Competitive Landscape And Company Profiles
9. Key Mergers And Acquisitions
10. Future Outlook and Potential Analysis

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https://topprnews.com/pipeline-integrity-management-market-size/ https://topprnews.com/power-distribution-unit-market-growth/ https://topprnews.com/protective-packaging-market-forecast/ https://topprnews.com/remote-weapon-station-industry/https://goodprnews.com/pipeline-integrity-management-market-opportunities/ https://goodprnews.com/power-distribution-unit-market-size/ https://goodprnews.com/protective-packaging-industry/ https://goodprnews.com/remote-weapon-station-market-landscape/
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I am currently a diesel mechanic and feel like I have maxed out my progression in my career. I started my career 7 years ago with an associates degree in heavy equipment technology. The past few years I have advanced significantly in my electrical diagnostics capabilities. This was mostly thanks to a few weeks of electric vehicle classes I attended. The instructor was incredible and everything “clicked” for me. After that I started to find electrical theory very interesting and always asked to work on the electrical problems that would come in. Over a few years have become my shops go-to electrical diagnostics guy. If I could troubleshoot circuits and look at wiring diagrams all day vs. doing other menial tasks like brakes and tires I would.
I am considering enrolling back into school for EE. Do you think a future employer would recognize my experience as diesel technician or would I basically have to start over?
TL;DR: Diesel technician looking for career change to EE. Got good at electrical diagnostics, would prefer to work on electrical systems all day rather than the other menial tasks that come with being a diesel tech.
Thanks in advance for your advice.

The purpose of this thread is to teach others a quick how-to on building your own #EMPproof truck like I did mine, so that our country has a better chance at rebuilding our society if/when we get hit with an #EMP weaponed designed to send us back into the stone age.

SOURCE URL: https://emp4x4.com/how_to_build_an_EMP_proofed_survival_vehicle
I’m sharing what I learned when I built my 1983 Turbodiesel Suburban k10 with a 4″ lift on 35″ BF Goodrich Mud-Terrains for this purpose. Its awesome, unique and super functional. Also gets TONS of thumbs up and preferred parking anywhere you go. My truck’s name is CLEMENTINE and she’s a beauty. After reading One Second After, I realized how serious logistics and mobility is in a post-EMP world so that’s why I built her and want you to know how to as well so you can be of help to your community defense and logistics when all the other cars are useless when their computers are fried by the E-1 pulse.
Since we’re here in the /preppers community, I’ll assume you all know what I’m talking about. If you don’t, start right now, and study up on the IMMEDIATE THREAT of EMP used in our skies and what happens to society in the aftermath. I’ve been a gear-head all my life and an entrepreneur / inventor by way of vocation, so I studied what would survive an EMP blast and then did it. Here’s the not-so-secret formula of what to buy, why and then how to build it. I know this topic because I BUILT one during COVID.
1. What to buy: American trucks are the best because there’s tons of parts for them and they’re really cheap to repair when compared with English or German counterparts. Diesel gets better fuel economy and is more stable than gas after one year. Remember the fuel stations don’t work anymore so your source will be siphoning from abandoned vehicles. Pre-1993 is what you’re looking for because there’s no smog in CA, and they used MECHANICAL FUEL INJECTION system which don’t have any computers on board for the EMP pulse to kill in the first place. These pumps are driven by the camshaft, so the engine can run as long as it gets fuel. Therefore even if the rest of your wiring harness is fried, if you can find a way to bump start the engine, all it needs to run is the 12v fuel pumps and 12vdc to keep the fuel solenoid valve in the open position. Therefore you can quickly and easily revive the truck from the dead if you find a spare battery and wire and hot wire the truck back together with those components. The key here is those old trucks don’t have a computer controlled fuel injection system, so there’s nothing for the EMP to kill with the E-1 pulse in the first place.
2. Don’t be tempted by a cheap truck, spend up. Don’t think you’re going to save money buying a POS on Craigslist. The list of things to fix will be endless. It’s cheaper to buy a good one that think you’re gonna build one from scratch, not to mention the time it takes to get it reliable as a primary vehicle. The best is if you can find a stickshift in a 3/4 ton or 1 ton because they have the heavier duty axles, transmissions and transfer cases and you can push-start them. The GMs of that era (Pre-Duramax) has the Detroit diesel 6.2L naturally aspirated engine, or the later model 6.5L turbodiesel. The latter ones are WAY more fun to drive with about twice the power, but you’ll have to change the Stanadyne DB4 electronically controlled fuel injector pump for the earlier model DB2 which is a zombie with no brains. The DB4 is notorious for the brains crapping out due to heat, and that’s also a point of vulnerability for an EMP to destroy. Swapping them is a pretty slow job because you have to remove the intake manifold and all the injector lines to pull it off successfully. The pre-1993 Ford with the International Harvester 6.9L or 7.3L v8 uses that same mechanical injection DB2 as well. Same thing applies. The Dodge Cummins 12 valve 5.9L inline six cylinder with the P-Pump is the most desirable and reliable engine, with the worst quality truck wrapped around it. It’s insanely heavy though, with a 1,200lb engine block vs the GM’s and Fords which are half the weight.
3. Bulletproof your engine. I have a 6.2L GM Detroit Diesel (Same engine used in HMMWV’s) with a BanksSidewinder exhaust manifold, a HOLSET HX-35 turbo, a Stanadyne DB2 mechanical fuel injection pump with the fuel turned up a 1/4 turn to keep the right aifuel ratio with a PrecisionTurbo 50mm blow off valve set to 15psi of boost and a custom intercooler system with a Mishimoto intercooler, and aluminum / silicone tubing and a 6.5L intake manifold. My racer friends tell me they think I’m making between 800 and 900 lbs/ft of torque with that setup, and I might actually believe them. Clementine can spin 35″x12.50″ mud terrains on dry tarmac. But I never abuse her because I know how much it takes to build and fix it!! These engines were known as being boring and insanely gutless because they were designed in the post-OPEC fuel crisis and people were screaming for fuel economy, which these deliver. (I get about 18-20mpg on the freeway in a lifted truck with the aerodynamics of a brick wall.) They’re boring indeed… until you turbo them! Then they’re super powerful and drive like a 1980’s big block gasser but with 3x the fuel economy. HOWEVER in the Detroit Diesels you have to correct a couple design flaws to make them reliable for the long haul. The crankshaft in these were known for breaking in the middle, but nobody talks about why! It turns out you can prevent that if you know WHY they were breaking. The reason they were breaking was because some bean-counter at GM opted to skimp on price and chose way too light of a harmonic balancer, which resulted in the engines would vibrate themselves to pieces giving them obviously a very bad reputation. So, to fix that and prep your engine, get a FLUIDAMPR liquid filled harmonic balancer from LeRoy Diesel for $528.00. They act like a rotational shock absorber for the crankshaft, thus reducing jitter and smoothing out your engine so it runs like a sewing machine. Also, get a head stud kit from ARP available at thoroughbreddiesel.com so you can increase the torque strength of your heads to the block, thus preventing cracking and warpage down the road. If you DO crack a head, get BARS LEAKS coolant additive to gum up the cracks until you can properly fix the heads. If you have access to a water jet or a laser cutter, get a thin sheet of copper and make your own indestructible head gaskets and then over torque the head studs slightly and use a ton of red Loctite. If you have a latter model GM/FORD IDI that has the DB4 injection pump, swap it like I said before for the earlier DB2 so that your electronic control module doesn’t fail due to excessive heat exposure. An oversized exhaust is your friend on a diesel, so prepare for a custom exhaust to be bent for you. My truck has a 3″ downpipe to a Dynomax muffler, exiting the passenger rear side and is as quiet as we could get that old clattery diesel to be. One thing to note, if you turbo a normally aspirated engine and turn up the fuel YOU WILL SMOKE in the cold mornings before your pistons heat up. Your neighbors will not be fans, but you're not building this for the EPA, you're building this to get outta town.
4. Wiring harness. You should get a replacement wiring harness from Painless wiring and take your time. They don’t sell a diesel harness for these trucks so you have to modify it as follows: The wire marked for ignition coil is going to be the wire you connect to the fuel solenoid valveon the mechanical injection pump. When it sees 12vdc, it OPENS THE VALVE so that the fuel can enter the pump. When it doesn’t see 12vdc, the spring closes the valve. This is what allows the engine to run, or starves it for fuel. That’s how diesels work, as opposed to gas engines where the coil charges the spark plugs to ignite the aifuel. Be sure to install a 200amp circuit breaker between your batteries and the wiring harness main wire, as this gives you the ability to disconnect your wiring harness when your truck is in storage. It makes a great kill switch too by the way. Another upgrade is the later model glow plug controller from the 1990's trucks is a great idea, because it limits the glow plugs to only 7 seconds so you don't melt them. I decided to splice the glow plug wire "turn me on when this sees 12vdc" wire to my starter hot lead to the starter solenoid so the glow plugs turn on every time you bump the starter. That way you don't have to know anything about glow plugs to have the engine start every time.
5. Fuel. Get the biggest fuel tank you can find for your truck and swap the stock tank for a bigger one, or even multiple for redundancy. I installed a 40 gallon to replace my 25 gallon tank. This required moving the floor support forward on the chassis by about 7″ to fit the bigger tank. The place to buy this and other restoration parts for your truck is LMCTruck.com Your fuel gauge will no longer be accurate, but you can easily double your drivable range which is what you’re gonna need in a post-EMP world. In addition, install an electric fuel booster pump back near the tank so that you have better fuel pressure feeding the injection pump to take load off the injection pump with a much cheaper electric fuel pump. I removed my mechanical fuel lift pump on the side of the engine and replaced it with a pair of electric fuel pumps, one on the rear of the chassis next to the tank, and the other on the firewall between my fuel filters and the injection pump.
6. Hide in plain sight. Although tempting to paint your truck and make it pretty, that draws attention by being flashy. If you can stand letting the paint atrophy on your 30 or 40 year old truck, the average driver will just see “old truck” and move on. A thief too will not have any clue what they’re looking at and leave you alone. A brush guard with old school KC Daylighters is a great touch. Not standing out is your best “gray man” move here. If you want to make your truck stand out with a macho paint job, well now you look like “that prepper guy” (easy to remember and find you) instead of “that guy who lives on that ranch over there” (that is easy to forget about and not see the defense implications for an old lifted truck.)
7. Lastly there’s products out there that claim to EMP-Proof your car… but buyer beware. An E-1 pulse needs the electronic load to actually GO TO GROUND, so gimmick gadgets are suspect indeed. By storing the truck with the batteries disconnected is your best move. By storing it with the batteries disconnected, and a pair of jumper cables connected to the body or frame, then connected to a grounding spike is leveling up your paranoia level, which is the whole point of this group, to be paranoid so you can be prepared!

One owner John Deere model number: 7775 diesel skidsteer. Machine has around 3500 hours but the diesel engine that was replaced new from John Deere dealership under warranty only has approximately 1000 hours. Doesn’t need any major repairs only someone who has the basic knowledge on how to get it running after no use for 2+ years. Stored away and kept out of weather. It has been sitting for 2 & 1/2 years but ran Exellent when last used. Bought new machine & was going to keep it for a back up but plan on purchasing another new machine. Machine is a 2000 or 2001 but is a very dependable and powerful machine. Other than the Warrenty engine replaced by my dealership I’ve had no major problems with this machine. Never abused owner operator. Looking to get $11.500 but if you help me getting it running I’m willing to negotiate. It should only take some minor repairs like a battery and some maintenance and possible troubleshooting like fuses, relays etc. & nothing major. Has a factory low profile bucket with removable tooth bar, (Two Bolts & 5 minutes to remove & install.) Has a brand new seat. Photos available on request.
Call and ask for Dave. (781)985-0428 Weymouth Massachuttes, 20 minutes south of Boston off of Route 3 south which is off of Route 93.

(Translated from German)
Dear swarm intelligence and Octavia fans, we need advice on how best to proceed with our car. First about the car:

• Skoda Octavia Combi 2.0 TDI DSG 4x4 Diesel 5e
• 1968 cm³
• 110 kW (150 PS)
• Automatic transmission
• 01/2018 first registration
• We are second owners after a company lease
• Bought in 2021 at 80,000 km, selfdriven 50,000 km in 3 years to 130,000 km now
• trailer operation approx. 5,000 km
• Purchase price 2021 = 20.000 €
• Purchased from dealer
• So far exclusively maintained at VW authorized workshops, checkbook tracked and always all recommended maintenance, repairs, replacements done. (German: "Scheckheftgepflegt")

We really like the car and always planned to drive it to the scrapyard. In other words, we expected it to last at least 10 years. Unfortunately, it is causing more and more problems and so far no VW garage has been able to help us or they have given up. The car is in everyday use (regular short and long journeys).
Symptom 1:
Sometimes the car skips gears and only shifts every 2nd gear and sometimes it doesn't shift at all. I'll try to describe it as best I can:

• It happens in winter and summer
• Shortly after starting the engine for the first time and also after hours of highway driving
• So far it only happens in lower gears 1-4 or at lower speeds
• So far we have had no problems on highways.
• We can't reproduce the error and never know exactly when and why it will happen. That is why we have not yet been able to "demonstrate" it at the garage. A workshop employee was also able to experience the faulty shifting during a test drive.
• The frequency has increased since the first year. While it happened ~ 1-2 times in the first year, we are now experiencing it once a month.

Symptom 2:

• Even when driving (in town and on country roads), it has happened that the thrust simply disappeared and we could only coast and pull over. After restarting the engine, everything is fine again.
• I drove to a red light, stopped and when the light turns green I can't start again. I press the accelerator pedal and nothing happens. In other words, I don't move, I don't hear anything, nothing changes gear. I have no error message in the on-board computer. Hazard warning lights. The only thing that reliably helps is to restart the car, then I can drive off normally as if nothing had happened.

Symptom 3:

• The message "Transmission emergency operation - continued driving possible" (German: "Getriebe Notbetrieb - Weiterfahrt möglich") appeared twice after braking more sharply. After restarting the engine, the message disappeared and could no longer be found in the fault memory.

We have been to different garages several times for this and have already spent a four-figure sum on "troubleshooting" but nothing has been found. The car's fault memory is always empty, all normal and extended measured values are OK. We have had new software installed several times and have already received a new control unit as a gesture of goodwill from vendor. All to no avail. Since our workshops are always in contact with "VW engineers", the recommendation is now to replace the gearbox for around €12,000. However, there is no guarantee that this would solve the problem.
Here we think that it is no longer worthwhile for the car, especially as there are other problems. (Sunroof motor defective - said to cost €600, parking distance sensors regularly malfunction).
Investing so much money in this car again - without any guarantee of success - is not an option for us. If we were somehow able to keep the car, we wouldn't care about the "manufacturer's checkbook-maintained condition" from now on. We could therefore imagine trying one last attempt via non-VW workshops, for example.
Should we get rid of the car already and sell it? If so, to whom and how best as something is not quite right with it.
Do you have any other suggestions/ideas on how to proceed? Internet research on problems with the DSG gives so many different results that it has not helped us so far. Has someone had similar issues?
Thanks for reading and possibly commenting.

Hello I am AJG
Diesel Tech Simplified is a startup specializing in providing comprehensive diagnostic services for owner-operators and semi-trucks. Our platform aims to help truck owners easily diagnose and solve truck faults, reducing the need to rely on forums or scattered resources. We are looking for a skilled web development team to bring our concept to life.
I am trying to make this website a reality and make it eventually subscription based after introduced correctly
Project Scope
The team will be responsible for building a web-based platform with the following key features:
User Authentication & Membership Management
Create a sign-up and login system for user authentication.
Implement a free trial system with subscription-based membership. Budget ($20-40 hrly)
Truck Fault Diagnosis
Develop a fault diagnosis form where users can submit their truck's make, model, year, engine, transmission type, and fault codes.
Implement the ability to upload screenshots of truck faults.
Integration with GPT-based Model
Integrate with a GPT-based model to process fault descriptions and generate diagnostic insights.
Create an API endpoint for backend communication with the GPT model.
Interactive Features and User Engagement
Create a "How to Use" page with detailed instructions for users.
Implement interactive features, such as an FAQ section and troubleshooting guides.
Backend Development
Set up a Node.js backend with Express for handling form submissions and authentication.
Integrate with a payment gateway (e.g., Stripe) for managing subscriptions.
Deployment
Deploy the platform to AWS (Elastic Beanstalk or similar).
Ensure the application is scalable, secure, and optimized for high traffic.
Required Skills and Technologies
Proficiency in web development technologies, including HTML, CSS (TailwindCSS), JavaScript, and Node.js.
Experience with backend development using Express and database management.
Knowledge of authentication and authorization (Passport, OAuth).
Experience with payment gateways like Stripe.
Familiarity with AWS services for deployment and infrastructure management.
Strong understanding of responsive design and UX principles.
Deliverables
A fully functional web platform meeting the specified requirements.
Properly structured backend with secure authentication and integration with the GPT model.
A scalable and deployable application, ready for production use.
Comprehensive documentation for maintaining and extending the platform.
How to Apply
If your team has the skills and experience to bring Diesel Tech Simplified to life, we’d love to hear about a possible partnership.

One owner John Deere model number: 7775 diesel skidsteer. Machine has around 3500 hours but the diesel engine that was replaced new from John Deere dealership under warranty only has approximately 1000 hours. Doesn’t need any major repairs only someone who has the basic knowledge on how to get it running after no use for 2+ years. Stored away and kept out of weather. It has been sitting for 2 & 1/2 years but ran Exellent when last used. Bought new machine & was going to keep it for a back up but plan on purchasing another new machine. Machine is a 2000 or 2001 but is a very dependable and powerful machine. Other than the Warrenty engine replaced by my dealership I’ve had no major problems with this machine. Never abused owner operator. Looking to get $11.500 but if you help me getting it running I’m willing to negotiate. It should only take some minor repairs like a battery and some maintenance and possible troubleshooting like fuses, relays etc. & nothing major. Has a factory low profile bucket with removable tooth bar, (Two Bolts & 5 minutes to remove & install.) Has a brand new seat. Photos available on request.
Call and ask for Dave. (781)985-0428 Weymouth Massachuttes, 20 minutes south of Boston off of Route 3 south which is off of Route 93.

Disclaimer: I am an amateur trying to troubleshoot a complicated off-grid generator-powered system on a remote island in Panama, and I know just enough about this s**t to be dangerous.
I've been burning up 230V pool motors lately, and found that the sub-panel powering these motors is putting out less than 200V. So I replaced the sub-panel, which was very corroded, no change.
The main panel feeds this sub-panel through a 100A 3-phase breaker, of which only two legs are connected to the sub-panel.
The main (3-phase) panel is powered by a transformer that drops 480V 3-ph down to 208Y-120 (3 hots of 120V at 120 degree phasing).
This step-down transformer is fed by a step-up transformer beside the 25 kW diesel generator. Troubleshooting in this area, I found that the voltages L1-L2, L1-L3 and L2-L3 are all 480V as they should be, downstream of the step-up transformer. However, the line-to-neutral voltages do not look right, around 225V each (L1-N, L2-N and L3-N). Does this indicate a problem with neutral bonding? We actually have three generators (25 kW - 40 kW - 80 kW) we can choose from. Where in this system should the neutral be bonded to ground?
Another tidbit of information that might be useful: with the generator running but disconnected from the load (480V 3-ph breaker turned off), I get NO voltage from L1-N or L2-N or L3-N on the hot side of the breaker.
I don't get any voltage neutral to ground.
Everything seems to be working fine except the 230V motors, which run hot and eventually fail internally. We have quite a few inverter type A/C's that run on 220... writing this reminds me to check what voltage they are receiving.
Any suggestions as to the cause of the problem or other things to look for?
https://preview.redd.it/wo2jaf1a4qvc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc7e506f64b9a8cac249552aabf5e253d676f00f

Hi everyone,
I own a 2010 Kia Venga 1.4 CRDi, diesel engine. I bought the car about a year ago, and at the time of purchase, it had a P0101 error code. I cleaned the EGR valve, EGR cooler, throttle body, MAF sensor, and intake manifold (with a new gasket), which resolved the error. When cleaning the EGR valve, I noticed it was heavily clogged, as shown in the pictures, and accidentally tore its gasket. Since I couldn't find just the gasket for sale, I replaced it with a DIY one, and for some time, I had no issues. https://imgur.com/a/QrxfFEb
However, for the past 2-3 months, upon the first morning start, the car struggles with excess diesel (I believe), emits a lot of smoke at idle, and splutters. If I rev it over 2000 rpm, the car runs normally. This rough idle and inability to accelerate persist for about 10-15-20 minutes, after which the car runs normally. I checked with diagnostics, and the air per cylinder values when cold are 180mg, which then change to 300-330 mg/cylinder as the engine warms up. One morning was especially bad(photo's below) https://imgur.com/a/k0sNfFA
Recently, it refuses to start on the first attempt, no matter how much I crank the engine. However, it starts without any issues on the second attempt. IMPORTANT NOTE: The first car start of the day always is a SUCCESS. Only after running the engine for even 10-15 minutes, leaving the engine "rest"for 15-20 minutes, it will refuse to start. I can crank it for 1 minute, or for 2 seconds, first crank is always a fail, second one always a success. - https://imgur.com/TiBxy25
After extensive troubleshooting, I suspect the EGR valve might be stuck open, causing the starting issues.
Also I checked the MAF sensor, and the signal wire stays at a fixed 2.51V, regardless of throttle pedal position/ acceleration. - video for it https://imgur.com/48WZQ8u
Also, the 5V reference wire reads 5V when disconnected. When I plug in the MAF sensor, it drops to 2.9-3.4V, but disconnecting the MAF sensor brings it back to 5V." - https://imgur.com/a/Yfosnyv
Checked the EGR and the 5v reference is always at 5v, with the egr connected or not.
EGR - signal wire - https://imgur.com/BusXjyK
At the moment i have no trouble code active and engine light is off.
I looked for any vacuum leaks using almost 3 cans of brake cleaner, none found.
Apologies for the lengthy post with multiple images/videos, but I'm trying to fix it myself as I can't currently afford to take it to a mechanic, and all the parts that could potentially be replaced are quite expensive.
Looking forward to your insights and suggestions. And if you need some additional info please let me know. I have my multimeter reader, delphi ds150e tester ready.
Thanks in advance!