2024.05.11 07:19 FarmerRemote9850 Remini v3.7.622.202381158 MOD APK (Pro Unlocked)
https://preview.redd.it/lqwk0nazeqzc1.png?width=200&format=png&auto=webp&s=265d11cc4f44b51341f4cfefdefcca89aa796226 submitted by FarmerRemote9850 to Modifiedmods [link] [comments]
👆👆👆👆Download Link👆👆👆👆 https://t.me/official_modyolo RESTORE YOUR CHERISHED Recollections WITH AI PHOTO ENHANCEMENTAI innovation is the savior of each photo these days. This innovation is so keen that it can make a strange photo based on fair a few lines of portrayal. With a wrapped up photo, it appears much simpler to idealize it. The framework will naturally recognize each picture on the photo, and you can profoundly intercede in each put of your work. Alter lighting, hone a hazy picture, or make a confront sharper.
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2024.05.10 06:44 DC-Legend2 Remini v3.7.620.202380338 MOD APK (Pro Unlocked)
https://preview.redd.it/nxpwncdw3jzc1.png?width=200&format=png&auto=webp&s=24a34565e976c1d48d58be3c9d6b114fc5006084 submitted by DC-Legend2 to Modifiedmods [link] [comments]
👆👆👆👆Download Link👆👆👆👆 https://t.me/official_modyolo RESTORE YOUR CHERISHED Recollections WITH AI PHOTO ENHANCEMENTAI innovation is the savior of each photo these days. This innovation is so keen that it can make a strange photo based on fair a few lines of portrayal. With a wrapped up photo, it appears much simpler to idealize it. The framework will naturally recognize each picture on the photo, and you can profoundly intercede in each put of your work. Alter lighting, hone a hazy picture, or make a confront sharper.
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2024.05.01 06:48 Free_Beer_Today Help finding a new piston.
2024.04.26 02:43 Gersh0m Suspected failed ignition module
2024.04.25 14:15 DC_Legend1 Remini v3.7.604.202374942 MOD APK (Pro Unlocked)
submitted by DC_Legend1 to Modifiedmods [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/1g6gisf0amwc1.png?width=200&format=png&auto=webp&s=7302620a11cc59c1c23a524a616e8da15d129aed
👆👆👆👆👆👆Download Link👆👆👆👆👆👆 -------------------------- Fair as taking photographs has gotten to be less demanding, making a really wonderful photo has ended up much more troublesome. The reason is straightforward: taking photographs is so simple that anybody can do it. Some of the time, non-professionals capture lovely minutes but are not sharp sufficient to accomplish the craved picture quality and lighting. Or, with marginally more awful hardware, valuable minutes ended up much more regrettable. Remini is the savior of all the over issues. A wonderful photo with awful picture quality will be spared in composition and emotion. RESTORE YOUR CHERISHED Recollections WITH AI PHOTO ENHANCEMENTAI innovation is the savior of each photo these days. This innovation is so keen that it can make a strange photo based on fair a few lines of portrayal. With a wrapped up photo, it appears much simpler to idealize it. The framework will naturally recognize each picture on the photo, and you can profoundly intercede in each put of your work. Alter lighting, hone a hazy picture, or make a confront sharper.
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2024.04.24 22:30 ar_david_hh Genocide \\ How Ottomans stole property; cultural wipeout; reparation; Sultan Hamid & Young Turks \\ British Church accuses Israeli police of unlawful actions against Jerusalem Armenians, criticizes Netanyahu regime \\ Russian-Azeri "hybrid war" & terr. integrity: Alen vs Valentina \\
2024.04.21 19:22 JayHill74 Artisan 2: Homestead is now available on Kindle and KU!
Link submitted by JayHill74 to litrpg [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/9esk7wlr9vvc1.jpg?width=400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5eed919b831d237e8dc81ce75bacf435e3995986 Blurb: Leif Craftsman has left the capital and continues his journey to the frontier and his new home. Along the way he continues to hone his skills and meet new people eager for his wares. |
2024.04.13 18:26 TorontoMasonryResto Brick Arches
A defining feature of older brick buildings is the method used to support a load above an opening. Arches of varying styles and construction have been used for centuries for this purpose. You don’t see them often in modern house designs. I presume that is due to the cost of building them (they are time consuming) and that their load rating is dependent on the skill of the craftsman. submitted by TorontoMasonryResto to centuryhomes [link] [comments] Here in Toronto, Canada we have a great number of Victorian buildings that were constructed with brick and are still standing. The 3 types of arches that you’ll find on these buildings are -jack arch (flat arch) , segmental arch ( circular in shape) and elliptical arch (American football shape. The creative use of red and buff (yellow) brick gives each building a unique look. There seems to be an endless variety of different combinations and designs. I think I’ve seen it all and then I’ll drive down a street and notice a new detail on a house that I’ve yet to come across. Rebuilding these details is something that I find very fulfilling. They pose a challenge. You are basically redoing a jigsaw puzzle that another bricklayer put together 100+ years ago. At any point in building an arch it can fall apart. Once that final brick goes in and everything is solid there’s a great feeling of satisfaction. Most bricklayers go their whole career without building an arch. That’s very common. I always say the details make or break a project. The viewers eyes are drawn to them. You can make minor mistakes on the body of a wall but if the arches and other details are built to a high standard everything else fades into the background. |
2024.04.10 01:16 Kyletradertraitor Casually using my leaf blower and the drawstring from my shorts got pulled in
Almost lost a di*k today 😅 submitted by Kyletradertraitor to mildlyinfuriating [link] [comments] |
2024.04.08 21:00 Promethium61144 Breaking Bad Sequel Idea
2024.04.02 18:14 Weird_Ad1170 NTD--SK and Proto
Went to a local mine supply to pick up some tools, as the guy said SK gave them a PITA when it came to warranty once Great Star bought them out; so they were clearing out all their old SK stock (which probably dates back to Facom) for blowout prices. submitted by Weird_Ad1170 to Tools [link] [comments] I had gone in there for a 1/4" and 1/2' SK ratchets, which they couldn't find, as they were buried deep. Instead, they offered me a pair;(SK 4051 set) of a 45175 10" and 45875 bent flex head (both 3/8) for $52; which is even cheaper than they are secondhand. These are, apparently, the "Tuff-1" design, which has been discontinued for many, many years. Worked better, as I already have two standard SK 1/4" ratchets, and my 1/2" Craftsman is working much better after an overhaul. These are completely different from my existing 3/8" ratchets. Decided I'd use the 45175 just now to replace the spark plug in a mower, and it is MUCH smoother than the 45170 i normally use. The Proto J706, is, unfortunately, one of the newer made in Taiwan ones. I had figured it would still be NOS USA, as I figured the mines had no need for dainty 6" adjustables (and I tend to use that size for around the house/light duty). Still though, not bad for $20. Making a call later to order the rebuild kit for these two--just to set aside just in case. https://preview.redd.it/oqlh5g56c3sc1.jpg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55c0ec0305fa02723d4b8814199d9c3c2916b2ca |
2024.03.27 05:39 chasetwogirls 240327 Only the long-awaited live broadcast of ‘Build-up’ remains… Jay Chang “It feels like a dream to advance to the finals”
The three teams that advanced to the finals of Mnet's survival show 'Build Up: Vocal Boy Group Survival' (hereinafter referred to as 'Build Up') shared their thoughts.Not sure, but I would think HMJB ballad, WATERFIRE non-ballad, PARTNERS ballad/rock-ballad?
'Build-up', which is about to birth a complete four-member vocal boy group, only has the long-awaited finals left. The members of the three finalist teams, who had built up from two-member groups to three-member groups to four-member groups and were about to take the final stage, directly shared their feelings and determination heading into the finals.
1st place in the semi-finals, self-proclaimed all-rounder 'Hunminjaybit' The Hunminjaybit team, made up of Jay Chang, Bitsaeon, Seunghun, and Kim Minseo, is a group of all-rounders who placed 1st in the semi-finals and advanced to the finals. Jay Chang, who formed the team, said, “The members I wanted gathered together to create a team, and it feels like a dream to advance to the final stage with this team.” Kim Minseo, who is the youngest member of the Hunminjaybit team and also attracted attention as a 'Dex look-alike' trainee, expressed his ambition, saying, "I definitely want to debut and show an even better stage with my brothers in the future." As they took first place in the previous semifinals, curiosity is gathering about the final stage as well. Bitsaeon predicted an emotional stage containing the stories of the team members, saying, “It is a stage where we can show a new side that is different from the stages our team showed previously.” Seunghun also hinted, “This is a song that contains lyrics about difficult times in life.”
The unexpected drama of an automatically formed team, 'WATERFIRE' WATERFIRE is a team that was automatically formed from the last remaining members from the 'team rebuilding' period, when it was possible to maintain and reorganize the team. They keep trying to get things together and are showing off their terrible intentions. Kang Hayoon expressed his thoughts and determination to advance to the finals, saying, “When I applied for the program, I never imagined I would be able to make it to the finals. I will take the time to know how to enjoy the stage at least this time.” Wumuti also said, “I want to enjoy and share this happiness with my teammates, fans, and everyone on site.” Since they were the only ones to perform a ballad performance in the last semi-finals, expectations are high on what kind of performance they will show in the finals. Sunyoul hinted, “We have prepared a stage with a different color from the stages that Waterfire has shown so far.” Choi Suhwan expressed his determination, saying, “I will show you that our Water Fire is the team with the best build-up.”
The four color 'partners' with an unlimited spectrum are a team of Park Jeup, an unrivaled high-pitched craftsman, Lee Donghun, an appealing and emotional vocalist, Bain, owner of excellent stage control, and Jeon Woong, a talented vocalist and talented singer. Bain, a member of the 4-member, 4-color team whose strength is diversity, expressed gratitude to those who gave enthusiastic support, saying, “I don’t think I would have come this far without the support of the fans and viewers who have supported and loved me from the beginning.” reported. Jeon Woong expressed his emotions, saying, “It was really overwhelming to advance to the finals with great members, and I became even more desperate to be in the final debut group.” Park Jeup expressed his confidence, saying, “It’s the genre I’m best at, and the song I’ve wanted to sing for so long.” He added, “I will show you a performance with confidence that doesn’t leave you feeling disappointed.” Lee Donghun strengthened his determination, saying, “I will pour everything I have accumulated so far into the finals so that the hearts of the fans who support me will not be in vain.”
The 'Build Up' final will be broadcast live at 10:10 pm on the 29th.
2024.03.24 05:31 Aliyth Repairing Ballista
2024.03.22 16:58 somewell [S] That Pokémon Survivor: Mt. Faraway
2024.03.22 12:27 OrlopDeck Anime arcs ranked on IMDB (arcs 301-600)
2024.03.22 07:45 marsmat239 Trip Report! Week 3 of 4
2024.03.19 03:42 Mr_McGuinty Lori Bed Build 2024
Hideaway Bed Cabinet submitted by Mr_McGuinty to woodworking [link] [comments] So, I'm always looking for ways to save money on home projects, as I'm relatively handy, having grown up around/on farmland and with other DIYers. We have family coming in from Europe for an extended vacation and with our expanding family trees, we don't have the space to house everyone under one roof like we used to. While looking at full bed and murphy bed options, my Wife came across this gentleman's Reddit post: (https://www.reddit.com/woodworking/comments/12c3rkm/my_biggest_project_so_far_a_murphy_bed_i_needed/?sort=new) Major thanks to u/victorh_ for his post which gave me the inspiration to tackle this project. We looked up the Lori Bed vendor and saw that they wanted $2,400+Tax for the Queen Vertical version we intended to get. However, after looking through their site and reviewing the general materials list and measurements they made available, I felt pretty comfortable in stating I could build one, and for significantly less money, if given enough time before the family arrives. I know there are quite a few folks out there and here on Reddit that are interested in doing something like this, but just don't know where to start, what materials to get, etc. So, as I'm a huge proponent of shared knowledge, I'm going to do my best to outline my build, tools/materials, measurements, costs, etc. so others can use this post as a jumping point if they want to build their own. I welcome all questions and constructive feedback that will help myself and others progress and do better in future projects. Final Build Result Video: Final Build Review Video --------------------------- Links Notice: (As we don't permit sale links in the project posts or comments, I can't post links to the materials/tools/etc. directly. However, if you are interested in the full list of build materials with their associated links, I can provide you with my affiliate links upon request in a DM/PM. Just let me know.) --------------------------- I have no sponsorships with any of the vendors/products listed below. I'm simply providing the specific product(s) I purchased/own or closest matching product(s) I used to complete this project. --------------------------- 🛒 All Affiliate Links Available Upon DM/PM Request 🛒 ----------------- Materials: -----------------
---------- Tools: ----------
Compatible Mattress Options: -------------------------------------------------
Accessories: --------------------
Post Thumbnail (Using because Reddit keeps using an image from a YT video posted further down): https://preview.redd.it/86l6j6ugd7pc1.png?width=868&format=png&auto=webp&s=cf16f3fc3ae0fb1960d183e97f924fb6988baedb -------------------------------------------- The Build: (Including both IN and CM/MM measurements for my friends on the other side of the pond. Let's get to the technical details) -------------------------------------------- -------------------- Dimensions: -------------------- Closed Cabinet Closed Dimensions: H: 81.75" (207.645cm) W: 63.75" (161.925cm) D: 22.5" (57.15cm) Opened Cabinet Open Dimensions: H: 9" (22.86cm) without mattress or 19" (48.26cm) with mattress W: 61.75" (156.845cm) D: 95.75" (243.205cm) ----------------- Cut Sheet: ----------------- Please read the entire post before cutting your material. There are some considerations based on whether or not you have molding on the wall you intend to mount this to or not. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools used to complete these cuts and their relevant use tutorials: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Circular Saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXvzBPlAeDM 60 Tooth Fine Finish Saw Blade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTzbvHgK-KY Ripcut Jig: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHMp-8pqW0w Jig Saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWneDzqAbH8 --------------------------------------- Cabinet:Cabinet Side:2 Pieces: 14" (35.56cm) x 81.75" (207.645cm) Cabinet Side Cabinet Side Face Frame Longs: 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 81.75" (207.645cm) 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 77.75" (197.485cm) Cabinet Side Longs Cabinet Side Face Frame Shorts: 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 10.5" (26.67cm) 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 9" (22.86cm) 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 4" (10.16cm) Cabinet Side Shorts Cabinet Top: 1 Piece: 13.5" (34.29cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) Cabinet Top Cabinet Wall Supports: 2 Pieces: 6" (15.24cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) Cabinet Wall Supports Cabinet Floor Support: 1 Piece: 4" (10.16cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) Cabinet Floor Support Cabinet Collapsible Headboard: 2 Piece: 13" (33.02cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) Cabinet Collapsible Headboard Mattress Support/Cabinet Face:Mattress Backer:4 Pieces: 15 7/16" (39.21125cm) x 81.75" (207.645cm) Mattress Backers Mattress Backer Strapping: Size at your own discretion. Recommendation was 4" (10.16cm) x 80" (203.2), but this felt a bit to squishy to me, so removed and instead bolstered with larger left-over pieces of the plywood where the majority of weight would be received by those laying on the bed. Mattress Backer Strapping Mattress (UPPER) Supports: 6 Pieces: 10" (25.4cm) x 8.5" (21.59cm) Mattress Upper Supports Mattress (LOWER) Supports: 6 Pieces: 39" (99.06cm) x 8.5" (21.59cm) Mattress Lower Supports Mattress Rest: 2 Pieces: 4" (10.16cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) Mattress Rest Mattress/ Cabinet Shelves: 4 Pieces: 8.5" (21.59cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) Mattress/Cabinet Shelves ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Connecting the dots.... or pieces of plywood if you'd prefer.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cabinet Frame and Headboard:Before starting to connect all the pieces together, if you have molding at the base of your wall, you will need to cut a roughly 2" x 4" notch at the bottom of your cabinet wall pieces, which I did and that's why the pieces specified for the Cabinet Side Face Frame Longs and Shorts are not symmetrical.1.) Grab your Cabinet Top piece (13.5" (34.29cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm)) and using your pocket hole jig, drill six (6) holes, evenly spaced, on the left cabinet side and six (6) holes, evenly spaced, on the right cabinet side) on what will be the ceiling side of the Cabinet Top piece. How to use the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e27uhkISof4 2.) Connect the Cabinet Top Piece (13.5" (34.29cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm)) to the Cabinet Left and Right Side pieces 14" (35.56cm) x 81.75" (207.645cm)) using twelve (12) 1" (2.54cm) Kreg Pocket Hole Screws, noting the cabinet back should all be flush and there should be a 0.5" (1.27cm) recess at the front to allow the cabinet front to inset once full assembly is completed. 3.) Grab your two (2) Cabinet Wall Support pieces 6" (15.24cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm) and using your pocket hole jig, drill three (3) holes, evenly spaced, on the left cabinet side and three (3) holes, evenly spaced, on the right cabinet side) on what will be the wall side of each of the two (2) Cabinet Wall Support pieces. 4.) Connect the Cabinet Upper Wall Support so it is flush against the underside of the Cabinet Top piece using six (6) 1" (2.54cm) Kreg Pocket Hole Screws. 5.) Connect the Cabinet Middle Wall Support at the height of what will be the Collapsible Headboard using six (6) 1" (2.54cm) Kreg Pocket Hole Screws. The bottom edge of the one I secured in place was at 21" (53.34cm) from the floor. 6.) Grab your Cabinet Floor Support Piece (4" (10.16cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm)) and using your pocket hole jig, drill two (2) holes, evenly spaced, on the left cabinet side and two (2) holes, evenly spaced, on the right cabinet side) on what will be the floor side of the Cabinet Floor Support piece. 7.) Connect the Cabinet Floor Support to what will be the bottom of the Cabinet Left Side and Cabinet Right Side using four (4) 1" (2.54cm) Kreg Pocket Hole Screws. 8.) Using your quick release clamps and Titebond wood glue, secure the face frame longs and shorts to form the picture frame on the outside of the Cabinet Side pieces. 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 10.5" (26.67cm) 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 9" (22.86cm) 2 Pieces: 1.75" (4.445cm) x 4" (10.16cm) 9.) Using your quick release clamps and Titebond wood glue, mate up the two (2) Cabinet Collapsible Headboard pieces (13" (33.02cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm). Once this has cured you have the option of leaving it as is or notching the rear corners or installing top mount holes for cable passthrough. I chose to notch the rear corners to allow for cable passthrough, so our guests can connect their phones, electronics, etc. without the need for nightstands. 10.) Connect the collapsible shelf supports to the Middle Wall Support, evenly spaced, and leveled and then connect your Collapsible Headboard to the collapsible shelf supports. (It may be easiest to install two temporary pieces of plywood to the inner cabinet wall to set your collapsible headboard on, level it, then secure your collapsible shelf supports to both, and then remove the temporary pieces of plywood. This is what I did, and it helped immensely.) 11.) It's now time to secure the cabinet to the wall. There are several options for doing this. Whether it be via toggle bolt, drywall anchors and washers or lag screws, you want to make sure the building will come down before the cabinet will come off the wall, especially if you have little ones in the home. I chose to go with some beefy 5/16" (0.79375cm) x 4" (10.16cm) Lag Screws and sunk them into the main beam supporting the 1st floor in the Cabinet Upper Wall Support and the wall studs in the Cabinet Middle Wall Support. With Step 11 complete, the cabinet portion of the build is now finished. We can now move onto the big guy, the Mattress BackeSupports/Outer Cabinet Face. Mattress BackeSupports/Shelves/Outer Cabinet Face:Let's get the Supports and Shelves built first.1.) Grab your four (4) Mattress Shelf pieces 8.5" (21.59cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm). Using your quick release clamps and Titebond wood glue, mate up two (2) pieces for the Upper Shelf and two (2) pieces for the Lower Shelf. 2.) Once the Mattress Shelf pieces glue has cured, it's time to round the outer edges. You have a couple options on how this can be done. The amount of round is at your discretion and how this is done is up to you. You can use your speed square and compass to establish your desired curve of 1-2" (2.54-5.08cm), you could get a paper cutting template, or you could do what I did and cheat by grabbing a paint bucket and line it up edge to edge to establish your curve. This allowed me to round the edges by 1.5" (3.81cm) 3.) Grab your six (6) Upper Mattress Supports 10" (25.4cm) x 8.5" (21.59cm). Using your quick release clamps and Titebond wood glue, make three (3) supports by mating up two (2) pieces each, totaling three (3) supports. 4.) As we did in step 2, we now need to round one (1) side of each of the three (3) Upper Mattress Supports. 5.) Grab your six (6) Lower Mattress Supports 39" (99.06cm) x 8.5" (21.59cm). Using your quick release clamps and Titebond wood glue, make three (3) supports by mating up two (2) pieces each, totaling three (3) supports. 6.) As we did in step 2, we now need to round one (1) side of each of the three (3) Lower Mattress Supports. 7a.) This is probably the most difficult step of the entire project. You will need to align all the upper supports, lower supports, upper shelf, lower shelf, and the mattress backers to make the cabinet face. All this needs done without shifting anything out of place while you secure all the pieces together. My advice here is to start by securing the Upper and Lower Shelves first, to allow the Mattress Backers and Shelves to have some structure while you try to secure the Mattress Upper and Lower Supports. Mock up all of your pieces, making sure they all align at the top/bottom/left/right, then from the mattress side, secure your Upper and Lower Shelves (8.5" (21.59cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm)) to the four (4) Mattress Backers (15 7/16" (39.21125cm) x 81.75" (207.645cm)), using four (4) of the Kreg 2 1/2" (64mm) Pocket Hole Screws per Mattress Backer piece, sixteen (16) per shelf. I cannot stress this enough, GO SLOW AND PAY ATTENTION to your alignment. If it is not perfect, you will either screw straight throw the face of the cabinet, or you will blow out through the sidewall of the plywood. (I did this and had to completely rebuild the middle shelf because I didn't notice it shifted while I was working.) 7b.) Now that the Mattress Backers and Upper and Middle Shelves are aligned and secured in place, you can move on to securing the Upper and Lower Supports to both of them. Start with the Mattress Lower Supports (39" (99.06cm) x 8.5" (21.59cm)). Align each of the three (3) Mattress Lower Supports on the seam between the Mattress Backer pieces, with the rounded edge being placed where the head of the bed will be, which is the bottom of the cabinet face. Secure the Mattress Backers to these Lower Supports just as you had secured the Shelves previously. Place a Kreg 2 1/2" (64mm) Pocket Hole Screw roughly every 4" (10.16cm) on each side of the seam. 7c.) Continue by attaching the Mattress Upper Supports (10" (25.4cm) x 8.5" (21.59cm)) in the same fashion as you just connected the Mattress Lower Supports in step 7b above. Align them on the Mattress Backer piece seams and secure using the Kreg 2 1/2" (64mm) Pocket Hole Screw roughly every 4" (10.16cm) on each side of the seam. 7d.) We will also want to secure the supports to not only the Mattress Backers, but also to the Upper and Lower Shelves. To do this, we first want to grab either the Forstner Bit or Countersink bits to create recessed pockets for the pocket hole screws to sink into, rather than bumping out on the under shelf (Upper) and shelf surface (Lower), respectively. I used a 3/8" (9.525mm) Forstner bit to create the countersinks and place six (6) of these on both the Upper Shelf (under side) and Lower Shelf (top side), two (2) holes per support, evenly spaced and only just deep enough for the head of the screw to end up being flush with the shelf surface. Once these holes have been created, drive the twelve (12) Kreg 2 1/2" (64mm) Pocket Hole Screws in. 8.) The Mattress Rest (4" (10.16cm) x 61.75" (156.845cm)) is up next. Same as you secured the Upper and Lower Shelves, secure the Mattress Rest to the Mattress Backers using Kreg 2 1/2" (64mm) Pocket Hole Screws, four (4) screws per Mattress Backer. 9.) Now it's time to bolster the Mattress Backer with some strapping. Again, I chose to use larger pieces of the end cuts of remaining plywood across the Mattress Backer seams rather than use the recommended 4" (10.16cm) x 80" (203.2) ones, as I built this using 1/2" (1.27cm) plywood rather than 3/4" (1.905cm) plywood due to cost and delivery constraints. 3/4" (1.905cm) plywood will be more robust, heavier, and require some recalculations on some of the measurements due to the 1/2" (1.27cm) increase in material depth. If you are using the 1/2" (1.27cm) plywood, you'll want to slightly angle your Kreg 1" (25mm) Pocket Hole Screws, otherwise they will come out the front side of your cabinet when fully inserted into the plywood. 10.) It's time to install the cabinet locking hardware. If you go with the Security locks I listed in the parts list, you can install them roughly halfway between the Upper and Lower Shelves. This was around 58" (147.32cm) from the floor. Just make sure the stopper will sit flush with the front of the cabinet to make sure it can't be shaken loose. 11.) Finally, it's time to install the Nylon straps to support the mattress when the cabinet is in the upright position. Align them with the Upper and Lower Shelves and secure each side using two (2) 1" (25mm) Pocket Hole Screws, four (4) per Nylon Strap. With the final screw of the Security Lock in place, the physical build is done. Note that this project calls for Edge Banding, which I linked in the parts list, but I did not end up using them, as I liked the look of the plywood end grains once it was all stained. If you want to use this, it's as simple as heating it up according to the manufacturer’s instructions, attaching it, and then trimming any excess material to finish the job. Additionally, I chose to round the upper left and upper right Mattress Backers, which become the bed footer when folded out, as they were shin shredders and the curved edge both adds to the look and functionality as well. If you'd like to round the edge like I did, use your Titebond Wood Glue bottle like how I used the Paint Bucket as a reference for the Supports and Shelves and trim as needed. Continue on for Aesthetics/Design and other considerations. ------------------------------ Aesthetics/Design: ------------------------------- Depending on where this project will be placed, there are endless possibilities for you to choose from as far as paints and stains go. I, having grown up around a farm and traditional craftsman work, am a fan of raw woods, wood stains, vintage furniture, etc. However, that might not be your thing, and that's OK. Make it your own. If you'd like to mirror the one I built, I used Minwax products. Specifically, their Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, Espresso 273 Wood Stain, and Fast Drying Polyurethane to match the barn door installed in the same space. Though that was made from pine, so it's a bit darker than this ended up being after staining. ---------------------------------------------------- The Prep, Stain, and Seal process: ----------------------------------------------------- Wear your respirator and P100 filters from here on out, during every step! The dust and fumes are vicious and should not be inhaled. Proper ventilation and breathing protection aren’t a suggestion, they’re mandatory. Also, it's time to put down your drop cloth unless you plan on destroying your floor with Wood Conditioner, Stain, and Polyurethane. 1.) For any surface you are looking to stain, you first want to lightly sand it with 320 grit sandpapeorbital sander to remove the roughness and allow for a smoother adhesion to the wood surface. 2.) Once sanded, you'll want to go back over each piece with a clean, lint free cloth dampened with either mineral spirits or lacquer thinner and lightly wipe down the surface to pick up most of the sanding dust. 3.) Once each piece is dry, follow up step 2 by wiping down each piece with a tack cloth to pick up any stray dust nibs for a clean surface for the conditioner and stain. 4.) Depending on what wood species you choose to go with (I went with poplar because it was the cheapest), you may need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to allow for the stain to evenly absorb and not look like a blotchy mess. To use this, use an application/staining pad and rub the Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner over the entire surface of each piece intended to be stained. Let stand for 5-15 mins and then wipe off any excess. You'll then want to stain these pieces within 2 hours. 5.) Select your desired stain and using an application/staining pad, rub the stain on and let set for the time outlined by the manufacturer. The longer it's on, the deepedarker the stain will be. (I recommend getting one of your end cuts and doing a test of both Pre-Stain Wood Conditioned and without, and then stain the board in strips. Removing the stain in intervals from 5-30 mins to see what the outcome is. This will help you determine how long the wood needs to remain in contact with the stain to get your desired effect.) 6.) Once all your pieces have had ample time to dry, it's time to apply a coat of polyurethane. Using either a foam roller or fine bristled paint brush, coat the pieces with a light coating of poly. Let set for 24 hours and return. If you want more protection/more shine, you'll want to lightly sand with 320 grit sandpaper, wipe down with a lint free cloth and mineral spirits/lacquer thinner, wipe with tack cloth, and then lay your next coat of poly. Rinse and repeat to reach your desired finish/shine. Please note that like linseed oil, these materials and their chemicals can cause their own thermogenesis and spontaneously combust in certain situations. It is best to place all application/staining pads in a sealable metal container filled with water once used and dispose of them in accordance with your local waste policies. -------------------- Accessorize: -------------------- With the build of your project complete, it's time to add the final accoutrements to your space to make it both design worthy and functional. One thing to be aware of is that this setup is HEAVY! When you need to lower the bed into the opened position, you 1.) will want two (2) people to lower it if you are even remotely unsure of your ability to do it on your own. 2.) Should have all small children and creatures clear of the area. 3.) Make sure you have a rug under where you intend for it to come down. With it being as heavy as it is, you run the risk of scratching your floor, and having the rug there will help to prevent this. It will also continue to help once it's occupied and will help to keep the bed in place in the down position. Just the edge of the bed footer sitting on the scale: Partial Weight At The Footer ------------------- Conclusion: ------------------- This is by no means an exhaustive guide, but I truly hope it helps someone out there, as I know it can be both a daunting and frustrating experience trying to venture into projects like this, when there isn't a ton of good info out there to help you get started. As I said at the beginning of this, I welcome all questions and constructive feedback to help myself and others better our projects in the future. Look forward to hearing from everyone and good luck out there! For those of you that have made it all the way to the end, I just want to say thank you for your time and engagement with my post, and if I can do it, you can too! <3 You Got This!!! |
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