What is the hormone t5

WhatTheFuckIsOSHA

2020.11.25 07:19 AbstractBettaFish WhatTheFuckIsOSHA

A place for images and videos of people places and things that violate any semblance of a safe work place.
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2018.01.21 18:42 McKlatch What is the Matrix? Pure Matrix Discussion

Discussion around The Matrix, The Matrix Reloaded, The Matrix Revolutions, The Animatrix, Enter the Matrix.
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2018.09.22 20:52 drromore What is the answer to life, the universe and everything?

What is...life? Before that, there are many other questions we have. Read about and submit answers to questions, and share interesting facts and share your knowledge. We will ourselves be creating informative videos and posting them here about different topics. Share your knowledge!
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2024.03.30 07:35 TremendousNerite Plants have consistently been melting and regrowing and I want the cycle to stop. I just want growth only.

Here are the photos for my post: https://imgur.com/a/colf47C
I can't seem to get photos and long text at the same time.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off-hand.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off hand.
When I first started this tank (October 2023) I had all the plants you see I was using low quality LED, the lowest nicrew lights, not even made for plants. And no ferts or anything. I started with ludwigia skeleton and Arcuata as well as what you see but they have since almost totally died off. They're super small now (less than 1 cubic inch) and mostly gone, dying a slow death. The plants were in a deprived state when I started fixing things. Also one time my FIL came over and accidentally unplugged the fish tank. No light for a 9 days (we were out of town) the plants were ravished when I came back. This was back in December. I added seachem equilibrium remineralizing powder randomly, maybe half a dose every 2 weeks.
I switched after about 3 months to much better lighting (mid january). I use 4 bars of Barrina 5W grow lights (T5 LEDs) and a 18W hygger HG978 turned on full blast. But I was still having plants problems. The lights are on for 6hrs a day.
I then realized the water where I live is super soft. It's 0gh out the faucet (Baton Rouge LA) and I started consistently remineralizing with seachem equilibrium and adding ferts. I add enough to bring me to 6gh. This product is also very high in potassium. 23% K2O meanwhile only 10% Ca/Mg. This was about a month ago. I'm from TN (hard water state) so I wasn't used to this need.
I've been dosing ferts for the past 3 weeks. Ive been adding about 2mL of NiclocG Thrive (the one for high tech tanks), 10-15mL of aqueon plant food (its basically all micro nutrients), 5mL of flourish excel. Since last week I've also been adding 5mL of flourish advance (plant growth hormone) daily. The flourish advance is my hope to get the plants budding and grow back to their full form.
The tank is a 25 gallon cube, hence is 18 inches deep. Rather deep. It's stocked with 8 danios, 3 panda garra, 2 hillstream loaches. 9 amano shrimp and 10 blue neocaridina. There's also 2 mystery snail, 2 nerite snails, and loads of ramshorn and bladder snails. I do 5gallon weekly water changes, and I add back in all the ferts weekly, and the equilibrium to maintain 6 or 7 dGh. I do adjust how much Thrive and how much aqueon plant food I add based on nitrates. One time I added the full recommended Amount of Thrive (5mL for 25 gallon) and my nitrates shot up to 40ppm. I've been going easier on it since. My nitrates sit around 10 ppm now. I try to compensate for less Thrive by doing more aqueon plant food. This week I did 1mL of Thrive and 30mL of aqueon. I have the liquid nitrate test from API so I monitor the nitrates and adjust accordingly. I try to split my dosing into sessions through the week. This week for example I dosed 0.5mL Thrive and 15mL of aqueon on Monday and Friday for 1mL and 30mL total dose this week. The temperature of the tank is average 76 degrees.
I'm having trouble with old plant leaves decaying like you see here. The species are cardamine lyrata, rotala orange juice, (I forgot what's in photo 3), and bacopa Caroliniana. I also have lots of limnophilia sessiliflora as you can see in my whole tank shot. The limnophilia is and has always been doing great, even in the days of deadly soft water and the cheap nicrew lights. I would say second place went to the rotala orange juice but it just has never recovered since the zero light period. The bacopa carolinia lower leaf decay that you see has happened over the past 4 days. The lowest leaves totally rot away. I want them to be big and bushy and tall and grow out of the top of the tank. I also have small bundles of hair algae in the tank but overall it's not a problem and I just pull out the small amounts by hand every 2 or 3 weeks.
My second issue is the cardamine isn't growing in a vine like it should. It was doing it at one point but then all the vine leaves melted and it reverted to growing a cluster of leaves on top of the vine instead of the vine itself. If you can give me advice on that I would really appreciate it. I pointed to the old vine with an orange arrow, and death in progress with red arrows. Leaves melted from bottom to top just like everything else.
I will say after I started adding ferts the limnophilia has been this great green color. It used to be green only for new growth and turn yellow after a weeks or something like that. And the orange juice has been somewhat better too.But I'm still having leaf melting in all plants but limnophilia.
Bottom line is I don't know what to try now. I'd really love to grow some red plants in the tank as well if possible. If anyone can share wisdom or advice that would be awesome. If definitely seen improvement in my plants but they're a long way from where I want them to be. Thank you to all who read my diary.
submitted by TremendousNerite to AquariumHelp [link] [comments]


2024.03.30 07:32 TremendousNerite Plants dying! Need help please!!!

Here are the photos for my post: https://imgur.com/a/colf47C
I can't seem to get photos and long text at the same time.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off-hand.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off hand.
When I first started this tank (October 2023) I had all the plants you see I was using low quality LED, the lowest nicrew lights, not even made for plants. And no ferts or anything. I started with ludwigia skeleton and Arcuata as well as what you see but they have since almost totally died off. They're super small now (less than 1 cubic inch) and mostly gone, dying a slow death. The plants were in a deprived state when I started fixing things. Also one time my FIL came over and accidentally unplugged the fish tank. No light for a 9 days (we were out of town) the plants were ravished when I came back. This was back in December. I added seachem equilibrium remineralizing powder randomly, maybe half a dose every 2 weeks.
I switched after about 3 months to much better lighting (mid january). I use 4 bars of Barrina 5W grow lights (T5 LEDs) and a 18W hygger HG978 turned on full blast. But I was still having plants problems. The lights are on for 6hrs a day.
I then realized the water where I live is super soft. It's 0gh out the faucet (Baton Rouge LA) and I started consistently remineralizing with seachem equilibrium and adding ferts. I add enough to bring me to 6gh. This product is also very high in potassium. 23% K2O meanwhile only 10% Ca/Mg. This was about a month ago. I'm from TN (hard water state) so I wasn't used to this need.
I've been dosing ferts for the past 3 weeks. Ive been adding about 2mL of NiclocG Thrive (the one for high tech tanks), 10-15mL of aqueon plant food (its basically all micro nutrients), 5mL of flourish excel. Since last week I've also been adding 5mL of flourish advance (plant growth hormone) daily. The flourish advance is my hope to get the plants budding and grow back to their full form.
The tank is a 25 gallon cube, hence is 18 inches deep. Rather deep. It's stocked with 8 danios, 3 panda garra, 2 hillstream loaches. 9 amano shrimp and 10 blue neocaridina. There's also 2 mystery snail, 2 nerite snails, and loads of ramshorn and bladder snails. I do 5gallon weekly water changes, and I add back in all the ferts weekly, and the equilibrium to maintain 6 or 7 dGh. I do adjust how much Thrive and how much aqueon plant food I add based on nitrates. One time I added the full recommended Amount of Thrive (5mL for 25 gallon) and my nitrates shot up to 40ppm. I've been going easier on it since. My nitrates sit around 10 ppm now. I try to compensate for less Thrive by doing more aqueon plant food. This week I did 1mL of Thrive and 30mL of aqueon. I have the liquid nitrate test from API so I monitor the nitrates and adjust accordingly. I try to split my dosing into sessions through the week. This week for example I dosed 0.5mL Thrive and 15mL of aqueon on Monday and Friday for 1mL and 30mL total dose this week. The temperature of the tank is average 76 degrees.
I'm having trouble with old plant leaves decaying like you see here. The species are cardamine lyrata, rotala orange juice, (I forgot what's in photo 3), and bacopa Caroliniana. I also have lots of limnophilia sessiliflora as you can see in my whole tank shot. The limnophilia is and has always been doing great, even in the days of deadly soft water and the cheap nicrew lights. I would say second place went to the rotala orange juice but it just has never recovered since the zero light period. The bacopa carolinia lower leaf decay that you see has happened over the past 4 days. The lowest leaves totally rot away. I want them to be big and bushy and tall and grow out of the top of the tank. I also have small bundles of hair algae in the tank but overall it's not a problem and I just pull out the small amounts by hand every 2 or 3 weeks.
My second issue is the cardamine isn't growing in a vine like it should. It was doing it at one point but then all the vine leaves melted and it reverted to growing a cluster of leaves on top of the vine instead of the vine itself. If you can give me advice on that I would really appreciate it. I pointed to the old vine with an orange arrow, and death in progress with red arrows. Leaves melted from bottom to top just like everything else.
I will say after I started adding ferts the limnophilia has been this great green color. It used to be green only for new growth and turn yellow after a weeks or something like that. And the orange juice has been somewhat better too.But I'm still having leaf melting in all plants but limnophilia.
Bottom line is I don't know what to try now. I'd really love to grow some red plants in the tank as well if possible. If anyone can share wisdom or advice that would be awesome. If definitely seen improvement in my plants but they're a long way from where I want them to be. Thank you to all who read my diary.
submitted by TremendousNerite to Aquariums [link] [comments]


2024.03.30 07:27 TremendousNerite Why are my plants dying? Need help please!

Here are the photos for my post: https://imgur.com/a/colf47C
I can't seem to get photos and long text at the same time.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off-hand.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off hand.
When I first started this tank (October 2023) I had all the plants you see I was using low quality LED, the lowest nicrew lights, not even made for plants. And no ferts or anything. I started with ludwigia skeleton and Arcuata as well as what you see but they have since almost totally died off. They're super small now (less than 1 cubic inch) and mostly gone, dying a slow death. The plants were in a deprived state when I started fixing things. Also one time my FIL came over and accidentally unplugged the fish tank. No light for a 9 days (we were out of town) the plants were ravished when I came back. This was back in December. I added seachem equilibrium remineralizing powder randomly, maybe half a dose every 2 weeks.
I switched after about 3 months to much better lighting (mid january). I use 4 bars of Barrina 5W grow lights (T5 LEDs) and a 18W hygger HG978 turned on full blast. But I was still having plants problems. The lights are on for 6hrs a day.
I then realized the water where I live is super soft. It's 0gh out the faucet (Baton Rouge LA) and I started consistently remineralizing with seachem equilibrium and adding ferts. I add enough to bring me to 6gh. This product is also very high in potassium. 23% K2O meanwhile only 10% Ca/Mg. This was about a month ago. I'm from TN (hard water state) so I wasn't used to this need.
I've been dosing ferts for the past 3 weeks. Ive been adding about 2mL of NiclocG Thrive (the one for high tech tanks), 10-15mL of aqueon plant food (its basically all micro nutrients), 5mL of flourish excel. Since last week I've also been adding 5mL of flourish advance (plant growth hormone) daily. The flourish advance is my hope to get the plants budding and grow back to their full form.
The tank is a 25 gallon cube, hence is 18 inches deep. Rather deep. It's stocked with 8 danios, 3 panda garra, 2 hillstream loaches. 9 amano shrimp and 10 blue neocaridina. There's also 2 mystery snail, 2 nerite snails, and loads of ramshorn and bladder snails. I do 5gallon weekly water changes, and I add back in all the ferts weekly, and the equilibrium to maintain 6 or 7 dGh. I do adjust how much Thrive and how much aqueon plant food I add based on nitrates. One time I added the full recommended Amount of Thrive (5mL for 25 gallon) and my nitrates shot up to 40ppm. I've been going easier on it since. My nitrates sit around 10 ppm now. I try to compensate for less Thrive by doing more aqueon plant food. This week I did 1mL of Thrive and 30mL of aqueon. I have the liquid nitrate test from API so I monitor the nitrates and adjust accordingly. I try to split my dosing into sessions through the week. This week for example I dosed 0.5mL Thrive and 15mL of aqueon on Monday and Friday for 1mL and 30mL total dose this week. The temperature of the tank is average 76 degrees.
I'm having trouble with old plant leaves decaying like you see here. The species are cardamine lyrata, rotala orange juice, (I forgot what's in photo 3), and bacopa Caroliniana. I also have lots of limnophilia sessiliflora as you can see in my whole tank shot. The limnophilia is and has always been doing great, even in the days of deadly soft water and the cheap nicrew lights. I would say second place went to the rotala orange juice but it just has never recovered since the zero light period. The bacopa carolinia lower leaf decay that you see has happened over the past 4 days. The lowest leaves totally rot away. I want them to be big and bushy and tall and grow out of the top of the tank. I also have small bundles of hair algae in the tank but overall it's not a problem and I just pull out the small amounts by hand every 2 or 3 weeks.
My second issue is the cardamine isn't growing in a vine like it should. It was doing it at one point but then all the vine leaves melted and it reverted to growing a cluster of leaves on top of the vine instead of the vine itself. If you can give me advice on that I would really appreciate it. I pointed to the old vine with an orange arrow, and death in progress with red arrows. Leaves melted from bottom to top just like everything else.
I will say after I started adding ferts the limnophilia has been this great green color. It used to be green only for new growth and turn yellow after a weeks or something like that. And the orange juice has been somewhat better too.But I'm still having leaf melting in all plants but limnophilia.
Bottom line is I don't know what to try now. I'd really love to grow some red plants in the tank as well if possible. If anyone can share wisdom or advice that would be awesome. If definitely seen improvement in my plants but they're a long way from where I want them to be. Thank you to all who read my diary.
submitted by TremendousNerite to aquarium [link] [comments]


2024.03.30 07:13 TremendousNerite Why are my plants dying? Need help!!!

Here are the photos for my post: https://imgur.com/a/colf47C
I can't seem to get photos and long text at the same time.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off-hand.
This is going to be a long post, but if you bear with me I'd really appreciate the help. This is most of the info I have off hand.
When I first started this tank (October 2023) I had all the plants you see I was using low quality LED, the lowest nicrew lights, not even made for plants. And no ferts or anything. I started with ludwigia skeleton and Arcuata as well as what you see but they have since almost totally died off. They're super small now (less than 1 cubic inch) and mostly gone, dying a slow death. The plants were in a deprived state when I started fixing things. Also one time my FIL came over and accidentally unplugged the fish tank. No light for a 9 days (we were out of town) the plants were ravished when I came back. This was back in December. I added seachem equilibrium remineralizing powder randomly, maybe half a dose every 2 weeks.
I switched after about 3 months to much better lighting (mid january). I use 4 bars of Barrina 5W grow lights (T5 LEDs) and a 18W hygger HG978 turned on full blast. But I was still having plants problems. The lights are on for 6hrs a day.
I then realized the water where I live is super soft. It's 0gh out the faucet (Baton Rouge LA) and I started consistently remineralizing with seachem equilibrium and adding ferts. I add enough to bring me to 6gh. This product is also very high in potassium. 23% K2O meanwhile only 10% Ca/Mg. This was about a month ago. I'm from TN (hard water state) so I wasn't used to this need.
I've been dosing ferts for the past 3 weeks. Ive been adding about 2mL of NiclocG Thrive (the one for high tech tanks), 10-15mL of aqueon plant food (its basically all micro nutrients), 5mL of flourish excel. Since last week I've also been adding 5mL of flourish advance (plant growth hormone) daily. The flourish advance is my hope to get the plants budding and grow back to their full form.
The tank is a 25 gallon cube, hence is 18 inches deep. Rather deep. It's stocked with 8 danios, 3 panda garra, 2 hillstream loaches. 9 amano shrimp and 10 blue neocaridina. There's also 2 mystery snail, 2 nerite snails, and loads of ramshorn and bladder snails. I do 5gallon weekly water changes, and I add back in all the ferts weekly, and the equilibrium to maintain 6 or 7 dGh. I do adjust how much Thrive and how much aqueon plant food I add based on nitrates. One time I added the full recommended Amount of Thrive (5mL for 25 gallon) and my nitrates shot up to 40ppm. I've been going easier on it since. My nitrates sit around 10 ppm now. I try to compensate for less Thrive by doing more aqueon plant food. This week I did 1mL of Thrive and 30mL of aqueon. I have the liquid nitrate test from API so I monitor the nitrates and adjust accordingly. I try to split my dosing into sessions through the week. This week for example I dosed 0.5mL Thrive and 15mL of aqueon on Monday and Friday for 1mL and 30mL total dose this week. The temperature of the tank is average 76 degrees.
I'm having trouble with old plant leaves decaying like you see here. The species are cardamine lyrata, rotala orange juice, (I forgot what's in photo 3), and bacopa Caroliniana. I also have lots of limnophilia sessiliflora as you can see in my whole tank shot. The limnophilia is and has always been doing great, even in the days of deadly soft water and the cheap nicrew lights. I would say second place went to the rotala orange juice but it just has never recovered since the zero light period. The bacopa carolinia lower leaf decay that you see has happened over the past 4 days. The lowest leaves totally rot away. I want them to be big and bushy and tall and grow out of the top of the tank. I also have small bundles of hair algae in the tank but overall it's not a problem and I just pull out the small amounts by hand every 2 or 3 weeks.
My second issue is the cardamine isn't growing in a vine like it should. It was doing it at one point but then all the vine leaves melted and it reverted to growing a cluster of leaves on top of the vine instead of the vine itself. If you can give me advice on that I would really appreciate it. I pointed to the old vine with an orange arrow, and death in progress with red arrows. Leaves melted from bottom to top just like everything else.
I will say after I started adding ferts the limnophilia has been this great green color. It used to be green only for new growth and turn yellow after a weeks or something like that. And the orange juice has been somewhat better too.But I'm still having leaf melting in all plants but limnophilia.
Bottom line is I don't know what to try now. I'd really love to grow some red plants in the tank as well if possible. If anyone can share wisdom or advice that would be awesome. If definitely seen improvement in my plants but they're a long way from where I want them to be. Thank you to all who read my diary.
submitted by TremendousNerite to PlantedTank [link] [comments]


2024.01.18 09:44 CremeMaterial9445 Dietary lectins are blood type specific and can cause problems in the long run?

I am a college student in the United States. I have been interested in nutrition for a while and one of the things I see popping up all the time is something called the "Blood Type Diet". I know that losing weight has NOTHING to do with your blood type and this diet is probably 100% bogus but I wanted to ask someone who is an expert in lectins about a certain part of this diet. LETS DEBUNK THIS PART OF THE DIET IF POSSIBLE
Again I know you can lose weight with ANY DIET BUT.....There's another part of this "diet" that I've always wondered about and it's about dietary Lectins and agglutination causing disease later in life.
The author of this diet (Peter D'adamo) claims that the Lectins found in the foods we eat are "blood type specific". And if we eat foods that are wrong for our blood type they cause "agglutination" or clumping of red blood cells. This supposedly leads to disease and illness later in life. So for example: he claims cucumbers are good for people with Type A and B blood but bad for people with type O blood because of the lectins being incompatible. There are numerous foods that are claimed to be healthy for people with certain blood types and bad for other blood types. Another example would be Avocados.... Supposedly good for Type A and bad for all other blood types. And somehow Beef is ONLY good for people with type O blood and bad for all other types? Again something to do with agglutinating properties? He also claims if they are bad for your blood type they are also bad for your gut microbiome....
Some of my favorite foods are supposedly bad for me because I am blood type A? I love tomatoes, cashews, avocados, mangos, etc.. But according to the blood type diet they are all bad for me, and can cause agglutination which leads to possible disease and illness.
you can actually go to www.dadamo.com: TypeBase V and type in different foods and see what they claim is good or bad for which blood type
Below I am going to post exactly what the author claims.
Maybe you can debunk this or point me in the right direction to somebody who can explain this
Lectins: The Diet Connection (Author Peter D'adamo) A chemical reaction occurs between your blood and the foods you eat. This reaction is part of your genetic inheritance. It is amazing but true that today, in the twenty first century, your immune and digestive systems still maintain favoritism for foods that your blood type ancestors ate.
We know this because of a factor called lectins. Lectins, abundant and diverse proteins found in foods, have agglutinating properties that affect your blood and the lining of your digestive tract. Lectins are a powerful way for organisms in nature to attach themselves to other organisms in nature. Lots of germs, and even our own immune systems, use this super glue to their benefit. For example, cells in our liver's bile ducts have lectins on their surfaces to help snatch up bacteria and parasites. Bacteria and other microbes have lectins on their surfaces as well, which work rather like suction cups, so that they can attach to the slippery mucosal linings of the body. Often the lectins used by viruses or bacteria can be blood type specific, making them a stickier pest for people of that blood type.
So, too, with the lectins in food. Simply put, when you eat a food containing protein lectins that are incompatible with your blood type antigen, the lectins target an organ or bodily system (kidneys, liver, gut, stomach, etc.) and can begin to interact with the tissues in that area.
Here's an example of how a lectin agglutinates in the body. Let's say a Type A person eats a plate of cashews. The cashews are digested in the stomach through the process of acid hydrolysis. However, the lectin protein is resistant to acid hydrolysis. It doesn't get digested, but it stays intact. It may interact directly with the lining of the stomach or intestinal tract, or it may get absorbed into your blood stream along with the digested cashew nutrients. Different lectins target different organs and body systems.
  1. Once the intact lectin protein settles someplace in your body, it literally has a magnetic effect on the cells in that region. It clumps the cells together and they are targeted for destruction, as if they, too, were foreign invaders. This clumping can cause irritable bowel syndrome in the intestines or cirrhosis in the liver, or block the flow of blood through the kidneys – to name just a few of the effects. Lectins can also act as 'fake hormones,' latching onto the receptor for a hormone and either blocking the normal action of the hormone (this is called an 'antagonist') or revving up the hormone receptor non-stop (termed an 'agonist.')
submitted by CremeMaterial9445 to Paleo [link] [comments]


2024.01.18 09:16 CremeMaterial9445 Dietary lectins are blood type specific and cause problems?

I am a college student in the United States. I have been interested in nutrition for a while and one of the things I see popping up all the time is something called the "Blood Type Diet". I know that losing weight has NOTHING to do with your blood type and this diet is probably 100% bogus but I wanted to ask someone who is an expert in lectins about a certain part of this diet. LETS DEBUNK THIS PART OF THE DIET IF POSSIBLE
Again I know you can lose weight with ANY DIET BUT.....There's another part of this "diet" that I've always wondered about and it's about dietary Lectins and agglutination causing disease later in life.
The author of this diet (Peter D'adamo) claims that the Lectins found in the foods we eat are "blood type specific". And if we eat foods that are wrong for our blood type they cause "agglutination" or clumping of red blood cells. This supposedly leads to disease and illness later in life. So for example: he claims cucumbers are good for people with Type A and B blood but bad for people with type O blood because of the lectins being incompatible. There are numerous foods that are claimed to be healthy for people with certain blood types and bad for other blood types. Another example would be Avocados.... Supposedly good for Type A and bad for all other blood types. And somehow Beef (though we are all vegan here) is ONLY good for people with type O blood and bad for all other types? Again something to do with agglutinating properties? He also claims if they are bad for your blood type they are also bad for your gut microbiome....
Some of my favorite foods are supposedly bad for me because I am blood type A? I love tomatoes, cashews, avocados, mangos, coconut yogurt, etc.. But according to the blood type diet they are all bad for me, and can cause agglutination which leads to possible disease and illness.
you can actually go to www.dadamo.com: TypeBase V and type in different foods and see what they claim is good or bad for which blood type
Below I am going to post exactly what the author claims.
Maybe you can debunk this or point me in the right direction to somebody who can explain this
Lectins: The Diet Connection (Author Peter D'adamo) A chemical reaction occurs between your blood and the foods you eat. This reaction is part of your genetic inheritance. It is amazing but true that today, in the twenty first century, your immune and digestive systems still maintain favoritism for foods that your blood type ancestors ate.
We know this because of a factor called lectins. Lectins, abundant and diverse proteins found in foods, have agglutinating properties that affect your blood and the lining of your digestive tract. Lectins are a powerful way for organisms in nature to attach themselves to other organisms in nature. Lots of germs, and even our own immune systems, use this super glue to their benefit. For example, cells in our liver's bile ducts have lectins on their surfaces to help snatch up bacteria and parasites. Bacteria and other microbes have lectins on their surfaces as well, which work rather like suction cups, so that they can attach to the slippery mucosal linings of the body. Often the lectins used by viruses or bacteria can be blood type specific, making them a stickier pest for people of that blood type.
So, too, with the lectins in food. Simply put, when you eat a food containing protein lectins that are incompatible with your blood type antigen, the lectins target an organ or bodily system (kidneys, liver, gut, stomach, etc.) and can begin to interact with the tissues in that area.
Here's an example of how a lectin agglutinates in the body. Let's say a Type A person eats a plate of cashews. The cashews are digested in the stomach through the process of acid hydrolysis. However, the lectin protein is resistant to acid hydrolysis. It doesn't get digested, but it stays intact. It may interact directly with the lining of the stomach or intestinal tract, or it may get absorbed into your blood stream along with the digested cashew nutrients. Different lectins target different organs and body systems.
  1. Once the intact lectin protein settles someplace in your body, it literally has a magnetic effect on the cells in that region. It clumps the cells together and they are targeted for destruction, as if they, too, were foreign invaders. This clumping can cause irritable bowel syndrome in the intestines or cirrhosis in the liver, or block the flow of blood through the kidneys – to name just a few of the effects. Lectins can also act as 'fake hormones,' latching onto the receptor for a hormone and either blocking the normal action of the hormone (this is called an 'antagonist') or revving up the hormone receptor non-stop (termed an 'agonist.')
submitted by CremeMaterial9445 to vegan [link] [comments]


2023.10.26 03:35 Hantechngardening1 An Affordable Sun Fix for Plants: Plant Grow Lights!

An Affordable Sun Fix for Plants: Plant Grow Lights!
https://preview.redd.it/zraqtakvagwb1.png?width=698&format=png&auto=webp&s=98bad9bed407db079b2a06d1ab92f6ec343d2911
Growing plants indoors can be a rewarding and enjoyable hobby. However, without access to natural sunlight, indoor plants may struggle to thrive. This is where plant grow lights come in. Plant grow lights provide an affordable and effective solution to ensure that your plants receive the light they need to grow and flourish. In this article, we will explore the concept of an affordable sun fix for plants through the use of plant grow lights.

What is plant grow light ?

https://preview.redd.it/b82if7ixagwb1.png?width=698&format=png&auto=webp&s=e8f537c26aa303115600fbcb7a1106c2115957d1
A plant grow light is an artificial light source specifically designed to provide the necessary light spectrum for plants to grow and thrive. It is used in indoor gardening or in situations where natural sunlight is insufficient or unavailable. Plant grow lights aim to mimic the spectrum of light that plants receive from the sun, promoting photosynthesis and enabling plants to carry out essential processes for growth and development.
These lights emit specific wavelengths of light, including red, blue, and sometimes additional colors, which are essential for different stages of plant growth. Blue light, for example, is crucial for vegetative growth and promotes leafy growth, while red light is important for flowering and fruiting stages.
Plant grow lights can be used to supplement natural sunlight or as the sole light source for indoor plants. They allow gardeners to extend the growing season, cultivate plants in areas with limited access to sunlight, or create optimal growing conditions for specific plant species.

The Need for Light:

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Light is a crucial element for plant growth. It is through the process of photosynthesis that plants convert light energy into chemical energy, enabling them to produce food and grow. Natural sunlight provides the ideal light spectrum for plants.
In natural environments, plants have adapted to specific light conditions, such as the intensity and quality of sunlight. However, in indoor or controlled environments, providing the right light conditions becomes crucial for optimal plant growth. This is where plant grow lights come into play, offering an artificial means to provide the necessary light spectrum and intensity for indoor gardening.

Benefits of Plant Grow Lights:

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Plant grow lights are artificial light sources designed to provide the necessary light spectrum for plants to grow and thrive indoors. Here are some benefits of using plant grow lights:

Year-round Plant Growth:

Plant grow lights allow you to grow plants indoors all year round, regardless of the weather outside. This is particularly useful for people who live in areas with limited sunlight or harsh weather conditions.

Control Over Light Spectrum:

Plant grow lights provide a specific spectrum of light that is optimal for plant growth. You can adjust the light spectrum to meet the needs of different plants, which can result in faster growth, higher yields, and better quality produce.

Energy Efficiency:

Plant grow lights are energy-efficient and can save you money on your electricity bills. LED grow lights, in particular, are highly efficient and have a long lifespan.

Customizable Light Intensity:

With plant grow lights, you can adjust the intensity of the light to suit the needs of your plants. This is particularly useful for plants that require more or less light during different stages of growth.

Indoor Gardening:

Plant grow lights make it possible to grow a variety of plants indoors, including herbs, vegetables, and flowers. This is particularly useful for people who live in apartments or homes with limited outdoor space.

Increased Plant Growth:

Plant grow lights can increase plant growth rates, resulting in larger, healthier plants. This is particularly useful for commercial growers who need to maximize their yields.
Overall, plant grow lights are a great investment for anyone interested in indoor gardening or looking to improve the growth and health of their plants.

Disadvantages of Plant Grow Lights:

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While plant grow lights offer many benefits, there are also some disadvantages to consider:

Initial Cost:

Plant grow lights can be expensive, especially if you need multiple lights or are setting up a large indoor garden. The cost of the lights, along with other equipment such as timers and reflectors, can add up quickly.

Energy Consumption:

While plant grow lights are energy efficient, they still consume a significant amount of electricity. This can result in higher energy bills, especially if you are running multiple lights for extended periods of time.

Heat Production:

Plant grow lights can produce a lot of heat, which can be a problem in small or poorly ventilated spaces. This can lead to increased temperatures and humidity levels, which can be harmful to plants and increase the risk of mold and other pests.

Limited Spectrum:

While plant grow lights provide a specific spectrum of light that is optimal for plant growth, they may not provide the full spectrum of light that natural sunlight does. This can result in plants that are not as healthy or vibrant as those grown outdoors.

Maintenance:

Plant grow lights require regular maintenance, including cleaning, bulb replacement, and adjusting the height and intensity of the lights. This can be time-consuming and may require some technical knowledge.

Noise:

Some types of plant grow lights, such as fluorescent lights, can produce a humming or buzzing noise that can be annoying or distracting.
Overall, while plant grow lights offer many benefits, they also come with some drawbacks that should be considered before investing in them.

Types of Plant Grow Lights:

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There are several types of plant grow lights available that are commonly used for indoor gardening or supplementing natural sunlight. Here are some of the most popular types:

Fluorescent Lights:

Fluorescent lights are commonly used for growing plants indoors. They are affordable, energy-efficient, and emit a balanced spectrum of light that is suitable for most plants. There are two main types of fluorescent lights used for plant growth: T5 and compact fluorescent lights (CFLs).

High-Intensity Discharge (HID) Lights:

HID lights are powerful and efficient grow lights that produce a high-intensity light output. There are two common types of HID lights used for plant growth:
a. Metal Halide (MH) Lights: MH lights emit a bluish-white light that is suitable for the vegetative growth stage of plants. They provide a good spectrum for promoting leafy growth.
b. High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) Lights: HPS lights emit a yellow-orange light that is ideal for the flowering and fruiting stages of plants. They are often used in combination with MH lights to provide a balanced spectrum throughout the plant's lifecycle.

Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs):

LED grow lights have gained popularity in recent years due to their energy efficiency and versatility. LEDs can be customized to emit specific wavelengths of light that are optimal for plant growth. They are available in various colors, including red, blue, and full-spectrum options, allowing growers to tailor the light spectrum to their specific plants' needs.

Induction Lights:

Induction lights are a type of fluorescent lighting that uses electromagnetic fields to excite mercury vapor, producing UV light. This UV light is then converted to visible light using phosphor coatings. Induction lights are known for their long lifespan and efficiency.

Plasma Lights:

Plasma lights are a relatively new technology that produces a full spectrum of light similar to natural sunlight. They are energy-efficient and have a long lifespan. Plasma lights are often used in commercial settings but are also available for home gardening.
Each type of grow light has its advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on factors such as the type of plants being grown, the growth stage, budget, and personal preferences. It's important to consider the light spectrum, intensity, energy efficiency, and coverage area when selecting a grow light for your indoor garden.

What type of light is best for growing plants indoors?

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LED grow lights are generally considered the best type of light for growing plants indoors. Here are some reasons why:

Energy efficiency:

LED grow lights are highly energy-efficient and use much less electricity than other types of grow lights. This means they are more cost-effective to operate and produce less heat, which can be beneficial for indoor growing environments.

Customizable spectrum:

LED grow lights can be customized to emit specific wavelengths of light that are most beneficial for plant growth. This means you can adjust the light spectrum to meet the specific needs of your plants.

Long lifespan:

LED grow lights have a longer lifespan than other types of grow lights, which means they require less frequent replacement and maintenance.

Low heat output:

LED grow lights produce less heat than other types of grow lights, which can be beneficial for indoor growing environments. This means you can place the grow lights closer to your plants without risking damage from excessive heat.

Versatility:

LED grow lights are available in a wide range of sizes and shapes, making them versatile for use in a variety of indoor growing environments.
While LED grow lights are generally considered the best option for indoor plant growth, it's important to research the specific light requirements of your plants and choose a grow light that is appropriate for their needs.

Considerations When Choosing Plant Grow Lights:

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When choosing plant grow lights, there are several important considerations to keep in mind:
Light Spectrum: Different plants require different light spectrums for optimal growth. Blue light promotes vegetative growth, while red light promotes flowering and fruiting. Full-spectrum lights provide a balance of both.
Light Intensity: The intensity of light needed for your plants will depend on the type of plant and its growth stage. Generally, seedlings and young plants require lower intensity light, while mature plants need higher intensity light.
Energy Efficiency: LED grow lights are the most energy-efficient option and can save you money on your electricity bill in the long run.
Coverage Area: Make sure the grow light you choose can cover the area you need it to. Consider the size of your grow space and the number of plants you need to light.
Durability: Look for a grow light that is durable and long-lasting. You want a light that will last for several growing seasons without needing to be replaced.
Heat Output: Some grow lights can produce a lot of heat, which can damage your plants or require additional cooling equipment. Look for a grow light that produces minimal heat or has built-in cooling systems.
Cost: The cost of grow lights can vary widely depending on the type and features. Consider your budget and choose a grow light that provides the best value for your money.

What is the difference between plant grow lights and regular lights?

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The main difference between plant grow lights and regular lights is the spectrum of light they emit. Regular lights, such as incandescent or fluorescent bulbs, are designed to provide general illumination for human vision. They emit a broad spectrum of light that includes all visible colors.
On the other hand, plant grow lights are specifically designed to provide the optimal light spectrum for plant growth. They emit light in specific wavelengths that are most beneficial for photosynthesis and plant development. The two primary types of light wavelengths used in plant growth are blue light (400-500nm) and red light (600-700nm).
Blue light is essential for promoting vegetative growth, influencing leaf development, and regulating the plant's overall structure. It helps plants establish a strong root system and encourages compact, bushy growth.
Red light is crucial for promoting flowering and fruiting in plants. It plays a significant role in triggering the flowering response and influencing the production of hormones that regulate flowering and fruit development.
Plant grow lights also come in full-spectrum options, which provide a balanced combination of blue, red, and other wavelengths. Full-spectrum lights aim to mimic natural sunlight and provide a broader range of light that can support plants throughout all stages of growth.
In summary, while regular lights are designed for human lighting needs, plant grow lights are specialized to provide the specific light spectrum that plants require for optimal growth and development.

How to use plant grow light ?

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Here are some general tips for using plant grow lights:

Determine the light requirements of your plants:

Different plants have different light requirements, so it's important to research the specific needs of the plants you are growing. Some plants may require more or less light than others, and some may require specific wavelengths of light.

Choose the right type of grow light:

There are several types of grow lights available, including fluorescent, LED, and high-intensity discharge (HID) lights. LED grow lights are the most energy-efficient and versatile option, while HID lights are more powerful and best suited for larger grow spaces.

Position the grow light correctly:

The distance between the grow light and your plants can affect the intensity of the light they receive. Generally, seedlings and young plants should be placed closer to the light, while mature plants should be placed farther away. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the optimal distance for your specific grow light.

Set a timer:

Plants require a certain amount of light each day, and it's important to ensure they receive consistent light cycles. Set a timer for your grow light to ensure your plants receive the appropriate amount of light each day.

Monitor your plants:

Keep an eye on your plants to ensure they are responding well to the grow light. If your plants are growing too tall or too spindly, they may be receiving too little light. If they are showing signs of burning or stress, they may be receiving too much light.

Adjust the light as needed:

If your plants are not responding well to the grow light, you may need to adjust the distance or duration of light exposure. Make small adjustments and monitor your plants' response to ensure they are thriving under the grow light.
By following these tips, you can effectively use plant grow lights to provide your plants with the light they need to thrive.

Conclusion:

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Plant grow lights provide an affordable and practical solution to ensure that your indoor plants receive the light they need to thrive. They offer a customizable light spectrum, extended growing seasons, and cost-effective options for indoor gardeners. When choosing plant grow lights, consider factors such as light intensity, coverage area, energy efficiency, and heat output. With the right grow lights, you can create an affordable sun fix for your plants and enjoy the benefits of indoor gardening all year round.

Please log in our website:https://www.hantechngarden.com/ for more details.
submitted by Hantechngardening1 to u/Hantechngardening1 [link] [comments]


2023.05.10 01:46 SimilarSupermarket99 Symptoms are getting worse and worse - no doc appointment until August, pls help I want to be prepared!

34F, 170lb, white, USA, no medications, vitamin: B12, B6, D Normal weight, no smoking, no drugs, social drinker. No fatigue, depression, or history of mental illness.
Timeline:
Nov 2020:
Nov 2021:
Jan 2022: Pregnant with my second child
Sep 2022:
Dec 2022:
Symptoms:
No fatigue (caring for 2 kids and working, so tired, but no bedbound fatigue), no depression, no history of mental illness. Currently breastfeeding.
All symptoms come and go (besides tinnitus and slight buzz in left foot)
Tests & results/impressions:
Scheduled:
Other:

Question:
Any idea what this can be, please help me... each appointment takes 3-4 months to get and I'm willing to do anything at this point.
Thank you so much.
submitted by SimilarSupermarket99 to Autoimmune [link] [comments]


2023.05.09 07:34 SimilarSupermarket99 Neuro/Rheum/Endo - Please shed some light!

34F, 170lb, white, USA, no medications, vitamin: B12, B6, D
Timeline:
Nov 2020:
Nov 2021:
Jan 2022: Pregnant with my second child
Sep 2022:
Dec 2022:
Symptoms:
No fatigue (caring for 2 kids and working, so tired, but no bedbound fatigue), no depression. Currently breastfeeding.
All symptoms come and go (besides tinnitus and slight buzz in left foot)

Tests & results/impressions:

Scheduled:

Other:

Question:

Any idea what this can be, please help me... each appointment takes 2-3 months to get and I'm willing to do anything at this point.
Thank you so much.
submitted by SimilarSupermarket99 to AskDocs [link] [comments]


2023.05.08 04:32 FansHg How to Grow Cannabis Clones – Quick & Easy

How to Grow Cannabis Clones – Quick & Easy
Cloning is a growing process of rooting marijuana cuttings, also referred as propagation. Cloning marijuana is a method of cannabis reproduction that results in a plant that is genetically similar to the parent plant from which the clone was derived. Cloning marijuana cuttings is intended to stimulate rapid and vigorous root development while retaining the plant's DNA. Seeds and marijuana tissue culture procedures are two more ways of propagation. Cloning is a type of asexual reproduction that reduces the risk of bad genetic changes that can arise when female and male plant pairings reproduce sexually. This is best done once you've discovered a superb strain in the crop that you'd like to reproduce over and over again.
A standard clone is around 6 inches long, and after being taken from the parent plant, it is placed in a medium like a root cube and supplied a hormone to promote root development. The clone will then put into a container or sown into the ground, where it will thrive like any other marijuana plant.

What You Need for Cloning

  • To acquire your clones, you'll need a "parent" plant.
  • Marijuana growers use sharp scissors or razors to take cuttings for clones, trimming and defoliation. Investing in sharp, high-quality scissors will allow you to focus more on the plants and assure perfect cuts.
  • Starter cubes for the clones
  • Powerful light, though not excessively so T5 grow lights, CFLs, Metal Halide from afar, and other sources of light Most T5 models were created with clones and seedlings in mind. If placed further away, other, stronger artificial light such as Metal Halide can be employed. The sun can do the job as well.
  • Cloning powder or cloning gel (or both) – Optional
  • Humidity domes for the clones or Aeroponic semi-automatic cloner- Optional
  • Heating mat (particularly for cold climates)- Optional

Why clone marijuana plants?

Although they take some time to root out, cultivating cannabis from a clone saves time because you wouldn't have to germinate seeds, which cuts the growth period by a month or two. Clones also save room in the garden, as opposed to seeds, which require you to sow a large number of them and then sex them to identify and eliminate the males. In addition, certain seeds do not germinate. All such seeds will take up a lot of room, and some may not grow into mature plants. It is free if you take a cutting from a plant that you already have, so you'll save a lot of money. All you have to do is buy some materials. One can, however, purchase clones from a dispensary if they don't have access to them freely.

What is a mother plant?

Any marijuana plant from which you have taken a clone is referred to as a mother plant. Mother plants should be strong and healthy since their genes will be passed down to the clones. When clones are snipped off, mother plants remain in the vegetative state. It's crucial not to take clones from a blossoming cannabis plant since this might transform the clone into a hermaphrodite. Certain growers have specialized mother plants that are solely used for cuttings, however this setup requires a lot of room and materials because you'll need to maintain the mother plant alive, but you won't receive any buds from it as it will constantly remain in the vegetative state. This may not be the greatest option if your growing area is limited.
The other technique used by growers is to take clones from a group of mother plants before they blossom, then allow the plants into flowering phase. Once the next group of clones has grown large enough, clones will be removed from them before they are allowed to blossom. Every cycle will be an identical copy of the mother plant since clones are genetically similar. The genetic consistency of marijuana mother plants ensures that each new breed of clones has the same flavor, aroma, potency, and other traits. Clones will normally develop at almost the same pace as the mother, generate a similarly quality product, and thrive with the same vigor—though some believe that quality will deteriorate with time.

How to take a cutting from a mother plant

Go for plants that are robust, strong, and two months or more into the vegetative phase when choosing a cannabis mother plant to clone from. It is not a good idea to remove a clone from a plant after it has begun to blossom. For a couple of days before taking cuttings, don't fertilize mother plants. This will enable nitrogen to escape from the leaves. An oversupply of nitrogen can lure the clones into generating foliage rather than roots once you make cuttings. Make sure you're working in a sterile setting. Gloves should be used, and scissors and razors should be disinfected.
To take a cutting, cut just above a node on the mother plant with a pair of sharp scissors or a razor to remove the branch you'll be cloning. Once the cutting is done, use the razor for trimming the region underneath the node where the cutting was done at a 45 ° angle, which will assist the roots expand. Put the cutting in an inert rooting medium and dip the sliced section in a rooting hormone since it is not suited for soil yet. Trim the clone's leaves at the tip to aid with photosynthesis, as well as any small leaves near the base should be clipped off as well because they don't fare well under stress.

Caring for the cuttings

For any young cuttings, moisture and hygiene are essential. Multiple trims should typically be taken and put at the same time. A few clones may die, which is to be expected, and they should be evacuated as quickly as possible. To keep the proper quantity of moisture at all times, a spray bottle filled with water should be used many times a day. Lighting is also vital since they need to be exposed to light for 18 hours a day, although keeping the light at a safe distance from the clones will work. During this period, they are highly susceptible to illnesses and shock, so take extra measures while handling them.

Inspecting the clones

Most pests, illnesses, chemical residues, or gene mutations are not visible to the naked eye, so inspect the clones well before planting them. The clones won't develop healthily if they appear sickly or fragile. Make a thorough inspection of the clone for pests in all locations. Larger pests like spider mites and fungus gnats are quite easy to identify. Inspect underneath the leaves and the soil medium, for pests that may be present. Spider mites form webs and spots, other insects can also leave noticeable spots, among other things.
Most diseases in clones are hard to identify, however there are a few physical indications that can be spotted early on. Look for drooping leaves, uneven or mutant growth, and discoloration. Powdery mildew is a prevalent clone infection with mold spores that can spread to neighboring plants. Check for white substance on the leaves and stems. On a clone, it's nearly difficult to identify toxic fungicides or pesticides. The applications usually leave no trace and can remain on a plant for the rest of its life.

Transplanting cannabis clones

Check the bottom of the auto-cloner or tray every day to ensure sure the clones have sufficient water. Tiny white roots should start to emerge from the bottom of the cutting around 10 to 14 days, however some will root out faster than others. It's time to transfer the cuttings into a growth medium once the roots have grown to approximately an inch or two in length. When preparing for a transplant, make sure the surroundings is sterile. Start preparing the soil for the clones ahead of time with care. Ensure the soil is pre-watered so the rooted clones don't move about after they're planted, then carefully set them in a hole that's approximately one to two inches deep. Because they are still highly delicate, shock might occur here, therefore wear gloves when handling clones and don't add nutrients at this stage. They may be handled like a regular plant when they've adapted, which should take about a week.

In a nutshell, to transplant:

  • First, fill your pots with soil.
  • So that the soil doesn't shift around after the clone is transplanted, moisten the soil prior to transplantation.
  • Once the water has been drained, use two fingers to dig a hole about an inch to two inches deep, or enough to cover all of the roots.
  • Place the clone in the soil and carefully cover it.

Conclusion

Cloning is a fantastic approach to keep exceptional genes alive and well in coming generations while also extending the life of a crop. In the event that viable male and female marijuana plants are picked, interbreeding is another perfect approach to growing cannabis. Cloning, however, is difficult to beat in terms of consistency, budget and the easy of achieving the desired results as a grower has prior information on the strain the clone was obtained from.

https://preview.redd.it/d3g9gkwdriya1.jpg?width=1022&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=960433970e775bcf172a7850ec5876b11c2216e8
submitted by FansHg to HonGuanClub [link] [comments]


2022.11.10 08:17 split_skunk Mega-Info Post: All the info about how to stop/reverse breast growth for detrans males (Raloxifene + Tamoxifen)

Hello all, I am a detrans male who developed some breast growth from my short time on estrogen. Recently I've been doing a lot of research into SERMs and treatments for gynecomastia to try to reduce breast growth. Below is a compilation which addresses all the most important information I've found. If you are like me and are trying to reduce or eliminate the breast growth you got from taking hormones, this post may be helpful to you.
If you have any questions please comment and I will do my best to answer them. I'm not a medical expert and this is not medical advice, but I just want to try to create this resource for anyone who may be going through a similar situation as myself
First, about myself: I took 10mg of estradiol valerate, twice -- one week apart. This is already a high dose, and I am anemic and have a low BMI, so I saw some serious effects very quickly. My breasts budded one week in. I didn't take measurements, but my breasts are definitely bigger now than they were. I can feel them, they're hot, they jiggle when I run or go up/down stairs, and there's breast tissue under the nipple. This breast tissue started the size of a pebble, and despite discontinuing estrogen treatment after just two weeks, the tissue continued to grow for around the next month and ended up around the size of a walnut.
First of all, if you have recently stopped estrogen therapy, there are some things you can do right away to stop your breasts from growing any further, but you must act quickly. The quicker you can act, the better.
  1. Do your best to not twist or pinch your breasts. I know it may be tempting or you may want to check on them to reduce anxiety, but do your best to resist. This will inflame them and accelerate their growth.
  2. Start working out. Any type of workout is better than no workout, but weight training will be the best. Weight training will help increase testosterone, which your body is desperately in need of. It may take a couple months for your testosterone production to go back to its normal levels, so we want to do everything we can to try to accelerate this process and stop the harmful effects estrogen is causing to your body.
    1. About working out: I had never gone to a gym before in my life and got tons of anxiety from being in the weight room. If you're like me, I have a couple bits of advice to get over your anxiety.
      1. First, just do it. Just go to the gym and run on a treadmill. Everyone knows how to use a treadmill. A lot of my anxiety came from seeing lots of fancy equipment and being intimidated because I didn't know how to use it. If this is part of your anxiety, just take baby steps. The equipment is not as complicated as you think.
      2. Time is of the essence. Do you really want to live with breasts on your chest the rest of your life? No, you do not. If you're getting anxiety about going to the gym, just think of the alternative, and I guarantee you will be motivated.
      3. Look up how to do the exercises and use the equipment BEFORE you go to the gym. Research what exercises you're planning to do, make a plan, watch videos, try to learn what the proper form looks like. This may help reduce anxiety.
    2. Cardio will not be super effective for increasing testosterone production, but it may help heal nerves and reduce erectile dysfunction [2], so you may want to incorporate it into your workout if healing erectile dysfunction is important to you. It will also help burn fat off your breasts. But again, weight training is the most important for stopping breast growth.
    3. Avoid foods with high estrogen for a couple months. The main two are dairy products (milk -- this includes coffee and hot chocolate, butter, yogurt, cream, ice cream) and red meat. These will increase your estrogen levels by a small amount, but it's important to minimize the damage as much as possible.
      1. I also started drinking green tea every day, since there is some evidence that it may inhibit estrogen in men by temporarily deactivating estrogen receptors.
      2. If you must drink coffee or hot chocolate, get it with almond milk. Not oat milk or soy milk as those contain estrogen.
Okay, now I'm going to talk about SERMs. These are Selective Estrogen Receptor Modulators which inhibit the effects of estrogen in the chest. These are often prescribed to women with breast cancer, but some men with gynecomastia have taken them and found that they reduced or completely eliminated their gynecomastia. A couple studies have been done about SERMs reducing gynecomastia in men, too.
There are two main SERMs that you may find. They are raloxifene and tamoxifen. There is anecdotal evidence for both of these drugs that taking them will reduce recent breast growth. From what I've read, the consensus is that these drugs may reduce breast growth in the past year anywhere from 0% - 100% reduction, and they may reduce older breast growth by 0% - 60% reduction.
Tamoxifen is less effective at reducing breast growth than raloxifene. That is just one study, but many bodybuilding and internet forums will report the same thing. There's also some evidence that tamoxifen is neurotoxic [2]. This means that it kills brain cells. There's also many anecdotal reports of retinopathy (eye damage / visual impairment / blindness) from patients taking tamoxifen. Overall, I would not recommend tamoxifen as a SERM unless you are okay with all of these side effects.
The main advantage of tamoxifen is that it is much easier to get a doctor to prescribe this medication to you, it's easier to buy online, and it's cheaper than raloxifene.
I would highly recommend raloxifene over tamoxifen. I have scoured the internet and have found very few reports of negative, long-lasting side effects from this drug. Like any drug, there are possible side effects, but I have rarely seen serious side effects anecdotally reported in my research, unlike tamoxifen. This bodybuilder who is very experienced in steroid use reports that his main two concerns with someone who wants to take raloxifene are:
  1. Like any oral drugs, they strain your liver, but for most people this will be manageable.
  2. Raloxifene increases the risk of blood clotting.
However, it's my opinion that if you were already on estrogen and did not experience problems with blood clotting, you are unlikely to experience problems with blood clotting induced by raloxifene. I also did not see this side effect reported anywhere else, and it's also worth noting that this bodybuilder was taking 120mg of raloxifene per day, which is twice the recommended maximum daily dose of 60mg of raloxifene per day.
One other side effect that young males may be interested in is that you may have seen reports around the internet that raloxifene will stunt your growth and close your growth plates early, if you are below 25.
It's my opinion that detrans males don't need to worry about this concern. The reason why raloxifene has been shown to accelerate the closing of growth plates is because it mimics estrogen in parts of the body other than the breasts, and high levels of estrogen accelerate the closure of growth plates (this is also one of the reasons why women are shorter than men).
Most people inquiring about taking raloxifene online have not already gone through estrogen treatment -- they are either bodybuilders and / or non-detrans men looking to resolve their gyno.
If you are under 25 and have already gone through estrogen treatment long enough to develop breasts, then you have already done at least some amount of permanent damage to your growth plates. Taking raloxifene may re-accelerate that damage, but I do not think it's a significant concern. For example, suppose you took estrogen for 9 months. The effects of taking raloxifene for 12 weeks will not have anywhere near the effect on your growth plates as the estrogen that you took for 9 months did. It would have the same effect on your bones and growth plates as if you had taken estrogen for another 3 months. I think this side effect is one that many detrans males are willing to accept as acceptable.
A standard raloxifene treatment I found on steroids to help reduce gyno is 60mg of raloxifene per day for 10 days, then 30mg of raloxifene per day until your gyno is eliminated or breast reduction stalls.
Raloxifene can be purchased on the grey-market online. Be careful and make sure you get it from a credible source, since I have heard one report of a site selling tamoxifen disguised as raloxifene, because they have similar primary effects, and tamoxifen is cheaper. If you bought your raloxifene online and get bad brain fog or foggy vision after taking "raloxifene," you are probably really taking tamoxifen.
You will probably have a hard time getting an endocrinologist to prescribe you raloxifene if you are in the U.S. I personally couldn't find one willing to prescribe it, and I didn't want to bother waiting and searching around to find one. Again, time is of the essence.
QueerDoc will prescribe raloxifene online on an informed-consent basis, but this service is only available for some regions of the United States.
If it has been longer than a year since your breasts developed, SERMs may not be effective. You will need to look into cosmetic surgery if you want to completely remove your breasts. This is something I haven't looked into very much, since it's not something I'm planning on doing.
I think that's all the info I have about breast reduction. Please comment if you have any questions or comments, and I will do my best to answer them or direct you to the right resources.
submitted by split_skunk to detrans [link] [comments]


2022.03.19 02:20 boom_townTANK I am a volatile chemical compound PART 2. My thoughts on hunger and nutrition for weight loss and OMAD.

Got some interesting conversations from the former post so I thought I would do a part 2, you can read the first post here:
https://www.reddit.com/OmadDiet/comments/tet3jz/i_am_a_volatile_chemical_compound_my_thoughts_on/
Again, I am going to state this. I am a guy that lost half his body weight with OMAD. I geeked out and read 23 books on nutrition, dieting and the microbiome. That means I am not an expert, I am just a guy that spent some time on this subject. This is just my outlook and perhaps you can use this as fuel for your own research.
The real battle of weight loss is hunger. While I am not a fan of calories or counting them, that's a whole post by itself, this is not a torture routine. The goal is to be satiated and not consumed with hunger. So, what is hunger?
Most hunger we experience is from a hormone (the little messengers in our body) called ghrelin. Ghrelin creates a psychological motivation to get you to eat. Ghrelin knows when you usually eat. If you normally eat lunch at noon then ghrelin will rise at noon. Its the knock on the door saying “hey buddy, we usually eat now, don't forget”. This also works in reverse, if you usually skip lunch at noon then ghrelin stop rising at that time. This is the adaptation phase of any IF routine, I don't know how long it will take you, everyone is different but it does get easier and the longer you stick to your routine the easier it gets.
Contrary to popular opinion hunger does not grow and grow until it becomes intolerable. Hunger comes in waves, it spikes and then recedes. We can't know what people feel but we can measure ghrelin levels. Women have higher spikes of ghrelin than men, as in, it appears they have more hunger. For you ladies out there, don't judge your experience with others, it may seem like it is harder for you because it really is harder for you. Black coffee and unsweetened teas can quicken that wave of hunger, if you feel hungry have a cup of coffee (or tea) and see if hunger subsides.
Knowing the difference between ghrelin screwing with your head and actual real hunger is a skill you will develop. If you have hunger with actual pain or brain fog then solution is to eat. You have no ruined anything, you learned something, think about what you ate and adjust then go back at it the next day. Remember that perfect is a silly concept for us fallible humans, aim for better and once that is established as a new normal just aim for better again.
Extremely common in our body is that for every hormone that does something, there is a counter hormone that does the opposite thing. The counter hormone for ghrelin is cholecystokinin (CCK). This hormone creates satiety and is activated by fats, it also signals your gall bladder to contract to release bile (which is used to breakdown fats) and close the valve between the stomach and esophagus (esophageal sphincter). People know when this valve does not close properly as we call it heartburn.
Some foods cause hunger.
When you eat processed carbs you pancreas makes insulin to clear out that glucose surge. But the pancreas is not that good at it, and if you insulin resistant like me then its really awful at it, and it releases more insulin than you need. This means that your blood sugar will spike and then drop below where it was at the start. This creates hunger and cravings.
Sugar creates a dopamine/serotonin reward sensations and create cravings for more sugar. I am not going into this part but I will post the conclusion of a study, bold text added by me:
Our findings clearly demonstrate that intense sweetness can surpass cocaine reward, even in drug-sensitized and -addicted individuals. We speculate that the addictive potential of intense sweetness results from an inborn hypersensitivity to sweet tastants. In most mammals, including rats and humans, sweet receptors evolved in ancestral environments poor in sugars and are thus not adapted to high concentrations of sweet tastants. The supranormal stimulation of these receptors by sugar-rich diets, such as those now widely available in modern societies, would generate a supranormal reward signal in the brain, with the potential to override self-control mechanisms and thus to lead to addiction.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/labs/pmc/articles/PMC1931610/
Override self-control mechanisms, let that sink in. According to endocrinologists 20% of people are hyper responders to sugar. I am one of them. In a lot of ways ditching sugar was harder for me than losing the weight. This is the low hanging fruit of weight loss (I am a pun master), get the sugar out of your diet.
I am about 30 trillion cells. You are too. But each of us has many more times that number of critters living in our gut. They didn't inhabit us, they co-evolved with us. I am not a “I”, I am a “we”. So are you. These gut bugs eat what we eat and their composition changes as our diet changes. These little guys have a direct communication path to our brain called the vagus nerve and they can alter our behavior. If you eat a lot of [name crappy food here] you are feeding the bacteria that like that food and pushing out the ones that do not. If you get a prominent colony of these little fellas they can use the vagus nerve to create cravings for that same crappy food, because they want you to eat it. Obese people have a different microbiota than lean people. Its sometimes hard to know who is in the driver's seat.
Here is a interesting little flip side to that. Antibiotics are not laser guided missles, they destroy foe and friend. Antibiotics also make us fat. The lack of a diverse microbiota causes weight gain too. Farmers do this with cattle although it is now illegal in most countries to give livestock antibiotics for the sake of making them fatter.
There are 3 macro nutrients and a massive number of micro nutrients. I went over macros last post and I will go into micro in this post.
The most common malnutrition in the world is iron, zinc, calcium, folate, vitamin A and B12. That is just a tiny amount of the nutrients we need but these are the most common. I kept this chart because it shows not only the calories needed to get 1/3 of those nutrients but the grams of the food to get it: https://imgur.com/a/4IP4qT5
Those green bar foods is what I eat. Let me just say I eat a lot of eggs, I eat pastured eggs because I think that matters. One eggs is a self contained single cell packed with enough nutrients to build an entire (albeit small) chicken. Its all in there. Its difficult to be nutrient deficient with eggs. The real powerhouse of nutrient density is animal organ meats, I have access to a asian grocery that sells some things that may gross you out. I eat duck hearts, beef liver and chicken intestines. I do this because they are nutritional powerhouses and I think they are tasty If I just made you barf, I understand, you can buy desiccated liver in a capsule that has all the goodness in there. I am not a fan of all supplements, but this is one I can get behind.
There is a term “nutitionism” and I am going to post the wikipedia summery:
Nutritionism is a paradigm that assumes that it is the scientifically identified nutrients in foods that determine the value of individual food stuffs in the diet. In other words, it is the idea that the nutritional value of a food is the sum of all its individual nutrients, vitamins, and other components.
This type of thinking is prevalent everywhere. We can eat any nutrient but we also must absorb them. Our bodies know how to extract the nutrients in foods in their whole form. I will give an example, low fat/no fat diary is almost nutritionally void regardless what it says on the nutritional label because the nutrients in dairy are fat soluble, you need the fat to absorb those vitamins. You need vitamin D to absorb calcium. Supplementing calcium seems to be not only inefficient but it could be harmful, get your calcium from food, ideally get them all from food. Not that common here in this subreddit are meal replacement shakes. Instead of actually eating food a person will have a couple of those. While technically all the nutrients on in there, I have serious doubts about how much a person is receiving. Our bodies don't know what to do with it, maybe it works I could be wrong, but I have my doubts.
This is something I do, I go a few days without protein every month. You can do this by just fasting a few days but I cheat a little because I am skinny now, not looking to lose weight. I don't eat but I do have bulletproof coffee which is grass fed butter, MTC oil and coffee put in a blender. mTOR is activated by protein and/or insulin and mTOR suppressed autophagy. So ghrelin can be suppressed with black coffee, bulletproof coffee activates CCK (ghrelin's counter horome) and crushes hunger and the fats in it are energy. Grass fed butter, by the way, is excellent for weight loss, I will post the abstract of a randomized, double-blind, placebo controlled trial (this is the gold standard) on conjugated linoleic acid which is found in butter (CLA = conjugated linoleic acid, BFM = body fat mass):
In conclusion, this study shows that CLA supplementation for 24 mo in healthy, overweight adults was well tolerated. It confirms also that CLA decreases BFM in overweight humans, and may help maintain initial reductions in BFM and weight in the long term.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15795434/
You can also use quality bone broth, I say quality because there are some very bad versions. Kettle and Fire is a good brand that sells shelf stable bone broths but you could (and I should) just make it myself.
I think this post is even longer than my last one so I am stopping. If you made it all the way to the end congrats, you are a rock star! Happy OMADing folks!
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2021.10.05 23:13 alienbanter UVB Guide v2.0 - What it is, why to provide it, and how to choose the right bulb for your setup!

Pacman Frog UVB Guide: What it is, why to provide it, and how to choose the right bulb for your setup!

Written by alienbanter for the /pacmanfrog subreddit and Advancing Amphibian Husbandry group on Facebook (which I now also admin). Feel free to comment or message me with any questions or concerns! Peer reviewed by retired vet and reptile lighting expert Dr. Frances Baines and two additional AAH admins.
In this post, I’ll attempt to explain why providing UVB to our Pacman frogs is a good idea and introduce how to do this safely! As always, if you’d like help with your setup and want personalized suggestions, or just want to check that what you’re planning on using is appropriate, feel free to make a post about it! Just make sure to include as much information as possible (especially the kinds of details in points 1-5 below), and a photo of the enclosure always helps too.
Here is a link to a better-formatted version of this post on Google Drive with page numbers, if that's easier for anyone.

Additional resources:

Table of Contents

  1. What is UVB, and what does it do for animals?
  2. Why provide it to Pacman frogs?
  3. How do I choose a lamp? Target UV index, type of bulb, type of reflector, where the bulb will be mounted, and the distance between the bulb and the frog
  4. An example of these principles in use!

1. What is UVB, and what does it do for animals?

From Dr. Frances Baines’ article An In-Depth Look at UV Light and Its Proper Use With Reptiles:
UVB is invisible to reptiles, but its high-energy short wavelengths are biologically active. The UV in sunlight is an effective disinfectant that can destroy bacteria, fungi and viruses on the surface of the skin. UV also has direct effects upon skin, which include strengthening of skin barrier functions, increasing pigment formation and modulating the skin’s immune responses. It also stimulates production of beta endorphins, giving sunlight its “feel good” factor, and induces nitric oxide production, which has localized protective effects on skin cells.
Figure 1
Perhaps the most well-known and vital effect of UVB, however, is its ability to convert a natural cholesterol in the skin to pre-vitamin D3. Warmth, typically also absorbed while basking, converts the pre-vitamin D3 to vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is used for vital functions throughout the body (see Figure 1). It is taken up from the skin into the bloodstream, then carried to the liver, where it is converted into a storage form called 25(OH)D3. This then re-enters the bloodstream and is carried throughout the body. A blood test for 25(OH)D3 is the best way of measuring an animal’s vitamin D3 status.
A small amount of 25(OH)D3 is essential for life. It is processed by the kidneys into the active hormone, 1,25(OH)2D3. (Blue arrows on the diagram). This vital endocrine hormone controls the levels of calcium in the bloodstream. Adequate circulating calcium is absolutely essential for muscles and nerves to function, and is also vital for normal growth and reproduction. 1,25(OH)D3 enables the gut to absorb calcium from the diet, and maintains stores of calcium laid down in bone. If a reptile develops metabolic bone disorder (MBD) as a result of vitamin D3 deficiency, this means that levels were desperately low, not even sufficient to make the tiny amounts of active hormone so necessary for life.
However, when supplies of vitamin D3 are plentiful, the liver can produce much more 25(OH)D3 than is needed by the kidneys. (Pink arrows on the diagram). Other organs can take up 25(OH)D3 and turn it into the active form inside their cells. There, it controls as many as 2,000 genes influencing a huge range of functions, including cell division and the immune system. Adequate vitamin D3 is needed for full health, not just the bare minimum that keeps MBD at bay.
In summary, in addition to a variety of other health benefits, UVB lighting allows animals to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin, which allows them to utilize the calcium we provide in the diet.

2. Why provide it to Pacman frogs?

Pacman frogs aren’t traditionally provided with UVB lighting or overhead heating, and keepers and breeders alike have kept them healthily for decades without these things. Instead, vitamin D3 is typically provided as a supplement in the diet along with calcium, as this vitamin D is what allows them to use the calcium we provide (as explained above). So why do we push for it here?
There aren’t any studies that suggest the amount of dietary D3 to provide, so it’s actually possible to overdose our frogs on it if way too much is provided. In contrast, the natural pathway by which it is produced in the skin under UVB lighting is self-limiting, as explained if you scroll down on this page also produced by Dr. Baines, so as long as you are using trusted lamp brands whose products have good spectral distribution of light wavelengths, D3 cannot be overproduced by the body’s natural processes. (This is not to say that you can’t still provide UVB lighting that is too strong though - that can cause other problems such as photokeratoconjunctivitis.)
This, in addition to the other benefits discussed in the previous section, make quite a good argument for why allowing our frogs to make D3 naturally is best! By providing a gradient in UV light across the tank with maximum levels chosen appropriately for our frogs (as explained below), we allow our frogs to self-regulate their exposure the same way they would in nature as they evolved to do.
This isn’t a completely novel concept in the keeping of nocturnal (or non-diurnal in general) species. Reptiles like snakes and leopard geckos have also traditionally been kept without UVB or overhead heating (heat pads are used instead), but husbandry standards for those species (among some circles at least) have been advancing faster than amphibian husbandry. Keepers of those reptiles who have started to provide UVB and overhead heating have noted increased basking behaviors (including cryptic basking, where only part of the animal’s body is exposed to the light), and anecdotally I’ve personally experienced this with my Pacman frog as well since switching her to a heat lamp and UVB from heating pads.
The science supports this advance as well. Another of the articles linked above, How much UV-B does my reptile need? The UV-Tool, a guide to the selection of UV lighting for reptiles and amphibians in captivity by Baines et al., contains a section on considerations for nocturnal species. I’ve cut some of the section out here for space, so please click the link and go to page 8-9 of the PDF to read more:
It has been speculated that crepuscular species may synthesise vitamin D3 by emerging into sunlight at dusk and dawn. However, when the sun is close to the horizon, the atmosphere filters out almost all the UV-B wavelengths required for vitamin D3 synthesis; species which can benefit from such low levels of UV need skin with very high UV transmission. Some nocturnal geckos, for example, fit into this category. Short wavelength UV-B has been shown to be transmitted through the full thickness of skin of the nocturnal gecko Coleonyx variegatus to a depth of 1.2 to 1.9 mm, in stark comparison with diurnal species such as the desert lizard Uta stansburiana, in which transmission was restricted to between 0.3 and 0.9 mm (Porter 1967). In the same study, Porter found that the skin transmission of seven species of snake reflected their behaviour, such that the highest transmission was seen in the most completely nocturnal species, and the lowest in diurnal species, with crepuscular snakes in between. This suggests one way in which low levels of UV-B may enable adequate vitamin D3 synthesis in nocturnal species. Carman et al. (2000) demonstrated that the skin of the nocturnal house gecko Hemidactylus turcicuscan synthesise vitamin D3 eight times more efficiently than skin from the diurnal desert lizard Sceloporus olivaceous – suggesting that this is an adaptation either to lower levels of available ultraviolet light in its microhabitat, or to very short exposure to higher levels, during brief day-time emergences from shelter.

The vitamin D3 requirement of some nocturnal species may be low; passive absorption of dietary calcium by vitamin D-deprived leopard geckos, for example, appears to be effective enough to prevent metabolic bone disease (Allen et al. 1996). However, the paracrine and autocrine functions of vitamin D3 are independent from calcium metabolism; more research is needed to assess the full effects of vitamin D deficiency.
To summarise, some nocturnal animals clearly do have the ability to synthesise vitamin D3 in their skin, and this would occur naturally whenever they were exposed to daylight. So there would seem to be no reason to withhold provision of full spectrum lighting, provided that they are able to spend the daylight hours in an appropriate retreat, with access to a UV-B component suitable for a shade-dwelling or crepuscular species (i.e. Ferguson zone 1).
The argument always comes up with Pacman frogs and other species that they don't need UVB. But what does it mean to need something? If it just means something that's necessary for survival, and our only goal is to provide things required for this, we'd all just keep our frogs in plastic boxes with no enrichment, substrate, lighting, etc. Just water and some food every now and again. And I think most would agree that this would be unethical. By that argument, dogs don't need a yard or toys because they can survive chained in a tiny room - but it doesn't make it right. Because it’s harder to anthropomorphize exotic animals in the same way as domestic pets such as mammals and birds, sometimes people take for granted their ability to survive wide ranges of appropriate conditions, as they do not show much behavioral reaction to them. This is often how bad care guides are produced (comments courtesy of Ricky Johnson). Evidence and anecdote alike demonstrate that UVB is a good thing to provide for our frogs' health, and allowing them the choice of exposure to UVB helps advance our husbandry and give them more freedom.
If this has successfully convinced you to provide UVB for your frog, the next step will be figuring out how to do so safely!

3. How do I choose a lamp?

Unfortunately, providing UVB isn’t as simple as the bulb companies might like you to believe. A number of factors must be taken into account, including:
For a TL;DR (or to skip the background info and just get a bulb), see this document! Pacman frog tank-specific UVB bulb recommendations

A. Target UV index

The first step is figuring out how much UV you need to provide based on your frog. Different species are organized into four different categories called Ferguson Zones based on their basking habits in the wild – you can find a big table with lots of species listed in this paper, which also discusses the importance of providing UVB in general.
While they are not listed in the paper, according to Dr. Baines' contributions in the Reptile Lighting group, as nocturnal ground-dwellers all species of Pacman frogs are currently considered Ferguson Zone 1 species. This means that for normally pigmented frogs, providing a maximum UV index of around 1.0 is a good goal, and for albinos, we can cut this in half to provide a maximum UVI of 0.5.
One type of tool that's always useful to have is the pricey but one-of-a-kind UV index meter called the Solarmeter 6.5 or 6.5R. These devices allow you to measure the UV index produced by a lamp and removes any guesswork or assumptions like those discussed in this post. There are a few different places to check for stock! These links will mostly be useful for folks in the United States, but I got mine at Josh's Frogs, and I think they also show up on lightyourreptiles.com, Reptile Basics, and even Amazon (the 6.5 and the 6.5R). The Solarmeter 6.5 currently comes with a few different labels depending on which company is selling them, such as those shown in this image courtesy of Frances Baines.
The next steps all work together to allow you to pick a bulb, but I’ll talk through some of the options for each one.

B. Type of bulb

Generally, there are five main categories of UVB bulbs that are commonly used today in the hobby: coil or compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs), T8 linear fluorescent bulbs, T5 linear fluorescent bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs, and metal halide bulbs. In this guide, I’ll focus on CFLs, T8s, and T5s, as mercury vapor and metal halide bulbs are generally much too strong to use for Pacman frogs. Depending on your specific setup, a CFL, T8, or T5 might be your preferred choice of bulb, or you might have several options. In a case where any of the options can work, generally speaking, T5 > T8 > CFL.
Linear UVB bulbs are typically deemed better for a few reasons. 1) You can replace the bulbs every 12 months instead of every 6 (or even longer if you have a Solarmeter 6.5 to test output!). 2) For all UVB applications, the UVB needs to cover the whole basking area, which needs to fit the animal in it, and the compact bulbs are too small and produce too small of an area of UVB for many species. 3) The compact bulbs are weaker at distance than most linear bulbs, but they can have a very sharp UVI gradient with very high levels close to the lamp. This makes them often only appropriate for species with low UVB needs in situations where the bulb can be placed so that the animal cannot get too close. So basically, for a compact lamp to be the best choice the animal it's being provided to typically needs to be in a short tank and require low levels of UVB, the animal needs to be small/compact enough for the bulb to work, and the bulb has to be placed so that the animal can’t get too close to it. Pacman frogs fit these categories, so the compact bulbs can work!
If you have a larger and taller setup, a T5 or T8 is likely preferred. T5s are newer technology and come in two versions – T5-HO (high output) and T5-NO (normal output), each of these categories having different UVB percentage, wattage, and length options. T5s typically are stronger, brighter, and slimmelower profile than T8s. While T8s are an older style, they can still be quite useful in situations where a softer light or closer approach to the lamp is needed. Both types need to be in reflector fixtures, which are matched for type, length, and wattage and which boost the light and UVB below the tube 2-3x over that of a bare tube (comments courtesy of Frances Baines). For low UVB-requiring species like Pacman frogs, chosen appropriately both T5 and T8 bulbs can work.
Two of the most reputable and highly respected UVB lamp brands are Arcadia and ZooMed’s Reptisun line of products. Arcadia produces T8s, T5-NOs, and T5-HOs, and ZooMed produces T8s and T5-HOs. As an example, one popular lighting choice for Pacman frogs is Arcadia’s ShadeDweller ProT5 kit, which is a 12” long T5-NO bulb. One handy thing about the ProT5 kits is that if you’re setting up a bioactive tank, they can be daisy chained to Arcadia’s Jungle Dawn plant LED lights so you don’t have to use as many outlets.
When choosing what you want to use, you need to take tank length into account. Since Pacman frogs aren’t open sun baskers, we need to make sure that they have plenty of room to escape light in their tanks. For this reason, keep UVB lights to half the tank in length or less. If you have a small tank, this may mean you can’t find a T8 or T5 short enough (for example, the shortest T5 I know of would be something like the Arcadia ShadeDweller, which is 12” long), and a CFL will then be your only option until you upgrade your tank.

C. Type of reflector

The UV output of a lamp can be amplified by the use of a reflector. Arcadia or Vivarium Electronics reflectors can increase the UV output of a lamp by approximately 3x, and the reflector built into ZooMed’s T5 Reptisun Terrarium Hoods increases the UV output by about 2.4x. Other types of reflectors will be less effective, but these are the two most commonly used. Be sure to clean reflectors periodically with a soft cloth (they scratch easily) if you use one to make sure that they stay at optimal effectiveness, as dirt and water stains (etc.) can affect this! If you’re using a CFL, hoods are available to mount the bulbs horizontally, and they can also be used in their vertical orientation in deep dome fixtures.

D. Where the bulb will be mounted

Where to mount the UVB bulb is a choice you will make based on how the position will affect the UV index in the basking area where the frog will be. For Pacman frogs, most people will be placing bulbs on top of the tank above a screen lid. Screens cut down on the amount of UVB that reaches the tank. The mesh that ZooMed and Exo Terra use in their terrariums tends to block about 35% of the light, and Thrive brand “mesh” (more like metal with holes punched in it) sold with their front-opening terrariums blocks more like 65-70% of the light. If you have a Thrive screen lid, replacing it is a safe bet. If you have a different brand, you can post a picture of it in the Reptile Lighting group on Facebook to get help calculating the blocking percentage.
To calculate how much the UVI will be reduced from your screen of choice, multiply the fraction of light allowed through by the known UVI without a screen at a specific distance. Here’s an example: let’s say you have an Arcadia ShadeDweller bulb in the Arcadia ProT5 reflector, and you want to put it over a ZooMed mesh screen. According to this chart from Reptile Lighting, at 30 cm this bulb and reflector produces a UV index of about 1.6. Since the ZooMed mesh blocks about 35% of the light, this means 65% of the light is allowed through. 1.6 * 0.65 = 1.04. This means that at 30 cm under the lamp, using a ZooMed mesh screen, a frog would receive a UV index of about 1.0. This is great for normally pigmented Pacman frogs!

E. The distance between the bulb and the frog

As may have been hinted from the last section, one of the key factors in using UVB appropriately is to keep the bulb at the right distance from the frog to provide the UV index desired. This means that even if you had a really strong bulb, if you elevated it high enough above the tank so that the UV index was still low enough at frog-level, it would still be safe. You can adjust this distance by changing the depth of the substrate, propping the bulb up higher above the frog, or strategically using extra layers of mesh to block more UVB (though doing this last one without a Solarmeter to directly test the new UVI levels wouldn’t be advisable).
Now armed with all of this information, you can look into picking a bulb for your setup! Here is a link to a document with as many readings and charts as we can find for bulbs that may be appropriate for Pacman frogs depending on the setup. You can use this to pick a good bulb for your frog and tank, or ask for help!

4. An example of these principles in use!

This is my Ceratophrys ornata Atari’s current bioactive setup. It’s still evolving (next step will be replacing the plants with some which are more similar to those found in her native environment of the Argentine Pampas!), but I’m quite happy with the current lighting setup!
Tank front view
The left side of the tank is the warm/bright side, while the right side is cooler and darker. I’m using an Arcadia ShadeDweller for UVB, positioned over a screen lid ~12 inches above the substrate to provide a UVI index of around 1.0, since my frog is not albino. I have this fixture daisy-chained to an Arcadia Jungle Dawn plant LED which is along the back of the lid (see next photo). The larger dome holds a 45W R20 incandescent light bulb, which is used during the day to provide surface temperatures of around 85°F. The smaller dome holds an Arcadia deep heat projector (DHP), which comes on at night during the winter to make an area of warmth around 75°F. The heat lamp and DHP are controlled by a Herpstat 2 dimming thermostat.
Tank top view
Here is a top-down view of the lid showing the placement of the various fixtures.
This document has been approved for posting by Atari :)
Thanks for reading!
submitted by alienbanter to pacmanfrog [link] [comments]


2021.08.01 22:14 throwaway57648567 My Apps Story As Someone Who Got Into Multiple T10s

Disclaimer: I am not at all bitter that I did not get into a T5. This post is meant to be read with a refreshing tone that, I hope, helps your mindset when approaching this semi-arbitrary and biased process and system. This post is also not meant to be read boastfully. I'm aware of my shortcomings and know that a skewed college apps process is equally likely to detect them as much as not detect them. This is more the reason to not be upset if someone who cheats or bullies gets into prestigious schools. We, consumers, give schools their status. When we relinquish our concern for their ranks and whatnot is when we become free from their manipulation. I am so ✨blessed✨ for everything that I have, which includes overcoming struggle (I come from a turbulent, emotionally manipulative household and often did degrading things online for attention) to attend one of my dream schools on full-ride. It really helps to look on the bright side when you are in a dark place.
My Story:
Hi A2C, here is my raw, unfiltered apps story. I have inserted parenthetical snippets of advice throughout to reduce any of your understandable pain and worry even by the slightest degree. I've learned the hard way to avoid worrying about factors beyond your control. (No, ouija boards aren't accurate... I consulted multiple that said I'd get into Harvard like WHERE 😆)
For the longest time, Yale was what I'd thought to be my dream school. I loved everything about its image. (Truthfully, I did not even research this school that much. There was nothing that made it more special than any other school other than its image to me. Major red flag.) After watching Gilmore Girls in middle school and traveling to the campus twice, I foolishly set my heart on it. (Never get attached to one place or set condition that you have no control over.) While scrolling through A2C throughout August and September of 2020, I decided I would REA to Yale. (In hindsight, I see why I should have RD'd there instead. Only apply early to schools like UChicago that emphasize maximizing their yield through early admissions.)
Lo and behold, I was deferred from Yale on that fateful December 16th evening. Too upset to do anything else, I drowned myself in Korean cassava chips and got around to starting all of my other applications. (Never procrastinate when applying to colleges. This is the one time when you should prioritize something over your grades and activities. I beg you to never start your applications in late December and early January like I did. I was so irresponsible and shortsighted to put together tens of applications in a span of ten days.) I also got around to connecting with a Yale graduate, who gave me well-intended hope that deferred students could still influence their application to manifest. (They gave good advice that the amount of time you spend on your app is no reliable indicator of how much you deserve to get into any school or what merit you should receive for your work.) I conveniently didn't tell them that I'd written my Yale application in the span of one day and had focused too little on my personal essay and supplements, the keystone of any application. (Avoid falling into this trap.)
Fast forward to April of the following year. Needless to say, I received a string of rejections from some of my dream schools — schools I loved because of the status they would confer to me, not because of the learnings I could explore through them. (Another huge red flag.)
I remember crying every day for two months since those rejections from T5s. I gave up on schoolwork. (Thank you to my beyond kind teachers who allowed me to submit late work.) I took selfies to look at my pitiful projection of self-worth onto institutions meant to preserve their power above all else. I allowed those schools to bother my internal peace and destabilize it. Along with this negative energy, I fell to my lowest of lows. I turned to the internet, soliciting rejections in the dms of people I had been simping on. (Never simp for anyone, especially not to get your self-esteem crushed.) I remember feeling envy towards classmates who had cheated their way into the T5. (Another red flag since the college apps process should never define your worth. Rankings hardly matter for most jobs. Take a look at renowned and successful people's resumes. How many of them went to well-ranked schools?) I remember simplifying the application process, thinking that it only measures the spectrum between the polarities of excelling and doing the unthinkable in one or more preferably niched fields versus immersing yourself intricately into one or more said fields. But as researcher Malcolm Gladwell posited, these schools largely serve white and wealthy groups: already privileged groups that would not stand to gain the most from a world-class education.
I eventually developed a coping strategy to get over this nonsense of thinking in the past. if a school rejects you, think of the rejection as YOUR rejection of them. Play a lot of boss music. Create a playlist for post-breakup songs because you really are breaking up with an illusion of love. My overconfident, hormonal ass a few months ago honestly thought I had Yale in the bag. It's natural for us adolescents to get such boosts in recklessness amid uncertainty, as if we were crushing over those schools. Instead, see the school that rejected you not as a "one that got away" but as a "bullet dodged." Also, normalize rejection and expect it. It will happen to everyone. If not now, then later. Besides, there was much to be happy about. My irrational, emotionally distraught ass should've been more focused on the full rides and awards that I received from other schools. Learning to choose what to focus your energy on is underrated.
To conclude, your time is most important. Use it to focus on yourself. Don't spend your days chasing after people who don't give you their time of day. We are all human and make mistakes. Sometimes, on a high from negativity, we rebound by naturally doing reckless things in a reckless phase to waste time. But hopefully, my advice encourages you to stop whatever useless, unmeaningful thing you are pursuing on a whim and to, instead, invest your creative juices into yourself. Even if it means disconnecting from the internet and doing nothing, do that. Do that instead of wasting your time collecting more negative energy. As a wise content creator once said, "an obsession with the other is a distraction from yourself." It feels damn good knowing you won't let something have power over your actions and how you spend your precious time.
To end on a lighter note, my DMs are always open for slivers of curiosity around my app process. I am more than happy to help FGLI students because I was once where you are. Regardless, I want everyone to know that you are seen and heard. I see and care about you, you strong warrior. If you choose to DM, realize that my advice will probably not help you lots. It might give you additional insights, but research only works when it is detailedly sought out en masse and then broken down into pithy conclusions. This further explains why my persistent seeking for a mix of advice from Yale graduates did not help me specifically get into Yale.
Live happily, for you are loved🌈~
Edit: Wow, I can't believe I forgot to include the detail that drove me to write this post, in the first place. Recently, I found out that I could've gotten into Yale post-deferral if I'd asked a school administrator, who apparently is well-connected with various admissions officers, to "put in a good word" for me. This is a surprise because my school is small, lacking in funds, and mostly FGLI. Looking back, even if I knew of that option available to me, I probably wouldn't choose it. Maybe some of my peers did, which would explain their stunning upsets. In the meantime, I should stop tossing these speculations around. Because even if it's unnecessarily selfless that I would avoid using corruption to break this corrupted system, I'm glad I would be honest to myself. This way, I can truly grow from my faults and carve a more sturdy foundation against the system.
Also, take school easy. I remember gunning for the best grades and being overly focused on my in-school performance. Sure, it was an honor to give a grad speech. I'd expected at least that much from years of placing my GPA above my wellbeing. But, my life would have been equally worth living without such material praise. I developed a serious health issue as a result of overworking myself. Thus, do not treat every part of your life as a stage with an audience waiting for satisfaction. You are your own audience.
submitted by throwaway57648567 to ApplyingToCollege [link] [comments]


2021.07.19 05:12 alienbanter UVB Guide: What is it, why to provide it, and how to choose the right bulb for your setup!

In this post, I’ll attempt to explain why providing UVB to our Pacman frogs is a good idea, and introduce how to do this safely! As always, if you’d like help with your setup and want personalized suggestions, or just want to check that what you’re planning on using is appropriate, feel free to make a post about it! Just make sure to include as much information as possible (especially the kinds of details in points 1-5 below), and a photo of the enclosure always helps too.
Additional resources:

What is UVB, and what does it do for animals?

From Dr. Frances Baines’ article An In-Depth Look At UV Light And Its Proper Use With Reptiles (the figures/diagrams referenced in the copied text below can be viewed in the original article as linked):
UVB is invisible to reptiles, but its high-energy short wavelengths are biologically active. The UV in sunlight is an effective disinfectant that can destroy bacteria, fungi and viruses on the surface of the skin. UV also has direct effects upon skin, which include strengthening of skin barrier functions, increasing pigment formation and modulating the skin’s immune responses. It also stimulates production of beta endorphins, giving sunlight its “feel good” factor, and induces nitric oxide production, which has localized protective effects on skin cells.
Perhaps the most well-known and vital effect of UVB, however, is its ability to convert a natural cholesterol in the skin to pre-vitamin D3. Warmth, typically also absorbed while basking, converts the pre-vitamin D3 to vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is used for vital functions throughout the body (see Figure 1). It is taken up from the skin into the bloodstream, then carried to the liver, where it is converted into a storage form called 25(OH)D3. This then re-enters the bloodstream and is carried throughout the body. A blood test for 25(OH)D3 is the best way of measuring an animal’s vitamin D3 status.
A small amount of 25(OH)D3 is essential for life. It is processed by the kidneys into the active hormone, 1,25(OH)2D3. (Blue arrows on the diagram). This vital endocrine hormone controls the levels of calcium in the bloodstream. Adequate circulating calcium is absolutely essential for muscles and nerves to function, and is also vital for normal growth and reproduction. 1,25(OH)D3 enables the gut to absorb calcium from the diet, and maintains stores of calcium laid down in bone. If a reptile develops metabolic bone disorder (MBD) as a result of vitamin D3 deficiency, this means that levels were desperately low, not even sufficient to make the tiny amounts of active hormone so necessary for life.
However, when supplies of vitamin D3 are plentiful, the liver can produce much more 25(OH)D3 than is needed by the kidneys. (Pink arrows on the diagram). Other organs can take up 25(OH)D3 and turn it into the active form inside their cells. There, it controls as many as 2,000 genes influencing a huge range of functions, including cell division and the immune system. Adequate vitamin D3 is needed for full health, not just the bare minimum that keeps MBD at bay.
In summary, in addition to a variety of other health benefits, UVB lighting allows animals to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin, which allows them to utilize the calcium we provide in the diet.

Why provide it to Pacman frogs?

Pacman frogs aren’t traditionally provided with UVB lighting or overhead heating, and keepers and breeders alike have kept them healthily for decades without these things. Instead, vitamin D3 is typically provided as a supplement in the diet along with calcium, as this vitamin D is what allows them to use the calcium we provide (as explained above). So why do we push for it here?
There aren’t any studies that suggest the amount of dietary D3 to provide, so it’s actually possible to overdose our frogs on it if way too much is provided. In contrast, the natural pathway by which it is produced in the skin under UVB lighting is self-limiting, as explained if you scroll down on this page also produced by Dr. Baines, so overdose is not possible.
This, in addition to the other benefits discussed in the previous section, make quite a good argument for why allowing our frogs to make D3 naturally is best! By providing a gradient in UV light across the tank with maximum levels chosen appropriately for our frogs (as explained below), we allow our frogs to self-regulate their exposure the same way they would in nature as they evolved to do.
This isn’t a completely novel concept in the keeping of nocturnal (or non-diurnal in general) species. Reptiles like snakes and leopard geckos have also traditionally been kept without UVB or overhead heating (heat pads are used instead), but husbandry standards for those species (among some circles at least) have been advancing faster than amphibian husbandry. Keepers of those reptiles who have started to provide UVB and overhead heating have noted increased basking behaviors (including cryptic basking, where only part of the animal’s body is exposed to the light), and anecdotally I’ve personally experienced this with my Pacman frog as well since switching her to a heat lamp and UVB from heating pads.
The science supports this advance as well. Another of the articles linked above, How much UV-B does my reptile need? The UV-Tool, a guide to the selection of UV lighting for reptiles and amphibians in captivity by Baines et al., contains a section on considerations for nocturnal species. I’ve cut some of the section out here for space, so please click the link and go to page 8-9 of the PDF to read more:
It has been speculated that crepuscular species may synthesise vitamin D3 by emerging into sunlight at dusk and dawn. However, when the sun is close to the horizon, the atmosphere filters out almost all the UV-B wavelengths required for vitamin D3 synthesis; species which can benefit from such low levels of UV need skin with very high UV transmission. Some nocturnal geckos, for example, fit into this category. Short wavelength UV-B has been shown to be transmitted through the full thickness of skin of the nocturnal gecko Coleonyx variegatus to a depth of 1.2 to 1.9 mm, in stark comparison with diurnal species such as the desert lizard Uta stansburiana, in which transmission was restricted to between 0.3 and 0.9 mm (Porter 1967). In the same study, Porter found that the skin transmission of seven species of snake reflected their behaviour, such that the highest transmission was seen in the most completely nocturnal species, and the lowest in diurnal species, with crepuscular snakes in between. This suggests one way in which low levels of UV-B may enable adequate vitamin D3 synthesis in nocturnal species. Carman et al. (2000) demonstrated that the skin of the nocturnal house gecko Hemidactylus turcicuscan synthesise vitamin D3 eight times more efficiently than skin from the diurnal desert lizard Sceloporus olivaceous – suggesting that this is an adaptation either to lower levels of available ultraviolet light in its microhabitat, or to very short exposure to higher levels, during brief day-time emergences from shelter.
The vitamin D3 requirement of some nocturnal species may be low; passive absorption of dietary calcium by vitamin D-deprived leopard geckos, for example, appears to be effective enough to prevent metabolic bone disease (Allen et al. 1996). However, the paracrine and autocrine functions of vitamin D3 are independent from calcium metabolism; more research is needed to assess the full effects of vitamin D deficiency.
To summarise, some nocturnal animals clearly do have the ability to synthesise vitamin D3 in their skin, and this would occur naturally whenever they were exposed to daylight. So there would seem to be no reason to withhold provision of full spectrum lighting, provided that they are able to spend the daylight hours in an appropriate retreat, with access to a UV-B component suitable for a shade-dwelling or crepuscular species (i.e. Ferguson zone 1).
The argument always comes up with Pacman frogs and other species that they don't need UVB. But what does it mean to need something? If it just means something that's necessary for survival, and our only goal is to provide things required for this, we'd all just keep our frogs in plastic boxes with no enrichment, substrate, lighting, etc. Just water and some food every now and again. And I think most would agree that this would be unethical. By that argument, dogs don't need a yard or toys because they can survive chained in a tiny room - but it doesn't make it right. Evidence and anecdote alike demonstrate that UVB is a good thing to provide for our frogs' health, and allowing them the choice of exposure to UVB helps advance our husbandry and give them more freedom.
If this has successfully convinced you to provide UVB for your frog, the next step will be figuring out how to do so safely!

How do I choose a lamp?

Unfortunately, providing UVB isn’t as simple as the bulb companies would like you to believe. A number of factors must be taken into account, including:
  1. The target UV index for the frog
  2. What type of bulb it is (shape, wattage/length, UVB percentage, version, etc.)
  3. What type of reflector or fixture it will be used in
  4. Where it will be mounted (in the tank, above a screen lid, the type of screen, etc.)
  5. The distance between the bulb and the frog
1) Target UV index
The first step is figuring out how much UV you need to provide based on your frog. Different species are organized into four different categories called Ferguson Zones based on their basking habits in the wild – you can find a big table with lots of species listed in this paper, which also discusses the importance of providing UVB in general.
While they are not listed in the paper, according to Dr. Baines' contributions in the Reptile Lighting group, as nocturnal ground-dwellers all species of Pacman frogs are currently considered Ferguson Zone 1 species. This means that for normally pigmented frogs, providing a maximum UV index of around 1.0 is a good goal, and for albinos, we can cut this in half to provide a maximum UVI of 0.5.
The next steps all work together to allow you to pick a bulb, but I’ll talk through some of the options for each one.
One type of tool that's always useful to have is the pricey but one-of-a-kind UV index meter called the Solarmeter 6.5 or 6.5R. These devices allow you to measure the UV index produced by a lamp and removes any guesswork or assumptions like those discussed in this post. There are a few different places to check for stock! I got mine at Josh's Frogs, and I think they also show up on Pangea Reptile's website, lightyourreptiles, Reptile Basics, and even Amazon.
2) Type of bulb
Generally, there are five main categories of UVB bulbs that are commonly used today in the hobby: coil or compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs), T8 linear fluorescent bulbs, T5 linear fluorescent bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs, and metal halide bulbs. In this guide, I’ll focus on CFLs, T8s, and T5s, as mercury vapor and metal halide bulbs are generally much too strong to use for Pacman frogs.
Depending on your specific setup, a CFL, T8, or T5 might be your preferred choice of bulb, or you might have several options. In a case where any of the options can work, generally speaking, T5 > T8 > CFL.
Linear UVB bulbs are typically deemed better for a few reasons. 1) You can replace the bulbs every 12 months instead of every 6. 2) For all UVB applications, the UVB needs to cover the whole basking area, which needs to fit the animal in it, and the compact bulbs are too small and produce too small of an area of UVB for many species. 3) The compact bulbs are weaker than most linear bulbs, so they're often only appropriate for species with low UVB needs. So basically, for a compact lamp to be the best choice the animal it's being provided to needs to be in a short tank and require low levels of UVB, and the animal needs to be small/compact enough for the bulb to work. Pacman frogs fit these categories, so the compact bulbs can work!
If you have a larger and taller setup, a T5 or T8 is likely preferred. T5s are newer technology and are stronger, and if you’re setting up a bioactive tank, for example, can be useful because Arcadia T5s can be daisy chained to their Jungle Dawn plant LED lights so you don’t have to use as many outlets. They also are slimmer and have lower profiles. But for low UVB-requiring species like Pacman frogs, chosen appropriately both T5 and T8 bulbs can work.
When choosing what you want to use, you need to take tank length into account. Since Pacman frogs aren’t open sun baskers, we need to make sure that they have plenty of room to escape light in their tanks. For this reason, keep UVB lights to half the tank in length or less. If you have a small tank, this may mean you can’t find a T8 or T5 short enough (for example, the shortest T5 I know of would be something like the Arcadia ShadeDweller, which is 12” long), and a CFL will then be your only option until you upgrade your tank.
3) Type of reflector
The UV output of a lamp can be amplified by the use of a reflector. Arcadia or Vivarium Electronics reflectors can increase the UV output of a lamp by approximately 3x, and the reflector built into ZooMed’s Reptisun Terrarium Hoods increases the UV output by about 2.4x. Other brands of reflectors will be less effective, but these are the two most commonly used. If you’re using a CFL, hoods are available to mount the bulbs horizontally, and they can also be used in their vertical orientation in deep dome fixtures.
4) Where the bulb will be mounted
Where to mount the UVB bulb is a choice you will make based on how the position will affect the UV index in the basking area where the frog will be. For Pacman frogs, most people will be placing bulbs on top of the tank above a screen lid. Screens cut down on the amount of UVB that reaches the tank. The mesh that ZooMed and Exo Terra use in their terrariums tends to block about 35% of the light, and Thrive brand “mesh” (more like metal with holes punched in it) sold with their front-opening terrariums blocks more like 65-70% of the light. If you have a Thrive screen lid, replacing it is a safe bet. If you have a different brand, you can post a picture of it in the Reptile Lighting group on Facebook to get help calculating the blocking percentage.
To calculate how much the UVI will be reduced from your screen of choice, multiply the fraction of light allowed through by the known UVI without a screen at a specific distance. Here’s an example: let’s say you have an Arcadia ShadeDweller bulb in the Arcadia ProT5 reflector, and you want to put it over a ZooMed mesh screen. According to this chart, at 30 cm this bulb and reflector produces a UV index of about 1.6. Since the ZooMed mesh blocks about 35% of the light, this means 65% of the light is allowed through. 1.6 * 0.65 = 1.04. This means that at 30 cm under the lamp, using a ZooMed mesh screen, a frog would receive a UV index of about 1.0. This is great for normally pigmented Pacman frogs!
5) The distance between the bulb and the frog
As may have been hinted from the last section, one of the key factors in using UVB appropriately is to keep the bulb at the right distance from the frog to provide the UV index desired. This means that even if you had a really strong bulb, if you elevated it high enough above the tank so that the UV index was still low enough at frog-level, it would still be safe. You can adjust this distance by changing the depth of the substrate or propping the bulb up higher above the frog.
Now armed with all of this information, you can look into picking a bulb for your setup! I’ve gathered as many readings and charts for bulbs that may be appropriate for Pacman frogs depending on the setup, and also some examples of bulbs that won’t work, in the partner post that will be going up shortly (check back for a link later)!
submitted by alienbanter to pacmanfrog [link] [comments]


2021.03.20 11:04 shadow_dancer13 No benefit whatsoever after 17 sessions

Hello,
I am doing home NF with a 2 channel amp, I am training cz and t5.
What I do is that i place the electrodes and do a 90 second baseline reading, then start a movie and let the thresholds move up and down automatically to punish or reward my brain.
17 sessions in and there is zero benefit, i usually train day after day for 25-30 min.
right now iam considering seeing a functional doctor to adress gut and hormone issues, and later maybe do the monamine neurotransmitter test and supplement with 5ht/tyrosie
submitted by shadow_dancer13 to Neurofeedback [link] [comments]


2021.01.01 20:12 Silly_Wizzy My tubal ligation experience

This was several years ago, but I wanted to post so I can link in the Experience sticky...
I was late 20s, married, no kids and I wanted to find a more permanent birth control method. So I started researching what the procedure "tying your tubes" entailed / read a ton of experiences after my Paragard partially expelled at one year.
I decided on a tubal ligation with Filshie clips. It has the best effective rate I could find (lifetime average effective rate of 99.75% see: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16259814 or http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/24560346/?i=1&amp;amp;from=filshie%20clips)
So I scheduled an appointment with my OBGYN, she is on the younger side and very openminded (there is a link in the sidebar to open minded doctors if you don't have a open minded OBGYN). We had a 30 minute conversation and she agreed that I was well researched / she was comfortable I understood it was permanent. After the consult, I discussed with her scheduling nurse when I would prefer to schedule it (it was around 3 months out).
Cost: During my research, I triple checked the ACA law required the insurance to 100% cover it. I paid about $10 for the at home pain pills. So in total it cost me only $10.00! Check out www.coverher.org for info about that!
Pre-Op:
Since it was scheduled 3 months after the consult the hospital required my doctor to do a Pre-Op with me. So week of procedure I had a Pre-Op apt with my Doctor. Basically just a quick check of everything. I asked whether I needed a catheter and she doubted I would. She gave no restrictions as to sex or exercise and just resume when comfortable. Got my pain prescriptions and pre-filled them so I could go straight home after my tubal ligation. Definitely ask to get them pre-filled.
Procedure:
It was scheduled for 8:00 am on Friday. Hospital told me to check in at 6-6:15 am for paperwork / prep. Paperwork was just double checking everything (copy of insurance card / etc). Walked to a private mini hospital room and Nurse started intake / asking health questions (when did I eat last, what medications/ etc) and changed into the hospital gown and signed my sterilization consent form. Doctor also stopped by to chat before. I told the anesthesiologist that I get nauseous under general anesthesia so they put a patch behind my ear to help. Then one of the nurses gave me an IV (they numb the area first). I peed right before so I wouldn’t need a catheter (and I didn’t). The nurse then put blue leg warmers on my legs to help prevent blood clots (this is normal for any procedure). Around 8:00 am the anesthesiologist came and gave me valium through the IV. Later I was then rolled into the OR. I don't even really remember leaving the room - they have some good drugs :)
Post-OP: I woke up wide awake in the recovery area. The patch worked so I was not nauseous. The nurse asked my pain scale and I was at a 3/10. It was basically a bad period cramp type of feeling, but no real ‘pain’ per se. The doctor came back and told me everything was normal and that the actual procedure took 15 minutes. She made the first incision into my belly button (but because she was so awesome no scar there). The second small incision is below my bikini line. She then went to talk to my husband to give him the details and tell him after care instructions.
After 30 minutes or so I was moved into the big recovery area. The nurse brought me food and juice. My husband came in and was really surprised how awake and normal I was. After 30 minutes of being in the big recovery area, I got dressed by myself and left. We left around 10:00 am.
Tips: Wear loose fitting PJs and a thin maxi pad. Bring a bottle of water to drink after as your throat is sore. Have a pillow in the car for the seat belt.
At-Home Recovery:
Friday: I went home and slept. I could walk around fine, I was just tired. I walked up the stairs to my bedroom by myself. My tummy was a tiny bit inflated by the gas they use to see what they are doing in there, but nothing crazy, it just looked like I had eaten a big meal / slight bloat. The pain pills made me more tired so I just slept the rest of the day. I ate lunch and dinner normally.
Saturday and Sunday: The rest of the weekend, I just watched TV with my husband. I could do stuff, I just chose to relax. Basically it was just a lazy weekend. Have some good movies and shows to watch. I was sore, but just like too many sit-ups sore. I could have done errands if I needed to, but with the pain pills you aren't suppose to drive.
Monday: I went back to work on Monday. No prescription pain pills and just did over the counter stuff Monday and Tuesday. No one even guessed anything :) The worst thing was really from the IV (big bruise as my veins hate IVs) but just wore long sleeve shirts for a few days.
Tips: Heating pad for tummy and Popsicles for your throat.
Summary: It was way simpler and easier than I thought! I have one tiny 1/2 inch scar below my bikini line that faded. The tubal ligation was the best thing I ever did!
P.S. Don't fall for the fake "Post Tubal ligation Syndrome." The 'doctor' that created it, lost her license (http://www.casewatch.org/board/med/hufnagel/order_2004.shtml or http://caselaw.findlaw.com/ca-court-of-appeal/1230512.html) for being crazy.
Neither a tubal ligation (tubes tied), bilateral salpingectomy (tube removal), nor Essure (blocking your tubes) will effect your hormones. Women usually stop hormonal birth control when they get their tubes tied. As in they return to their natural period. Hormonal birth stops your cycle so you neither ovulate nor have a period so when you are on it you have a lighter fake bleed. Correlation is NOT causation.
Some of the research disproving the fake syndrome - they didn't even find correlation, let alone causation: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7982548
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11106717
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15865627
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23071889
Why? Because it can't /won't restrict the blood flow after surgery. This explains it quite well:
https://www.google.com/amp/s/drjengunter.wordpress.com/2012/06/07/tubal-ligation-does-not-cause-early-menopause-beware-the-hormone-experts/amp/?client=safar
Need a doctor? Doctor list from /childfree: https://www.reddit.com/childfree/wiki/doctors?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=usertext&utm_name=birthcontrol&utm_content=t5_2snsq
Also studies on regret for my childfree friends :)
For women aged 30 or younger at sterilization, the cumulative probability of regret decreased as time since the birth of the youngest child increased (2-3 years, 16.2%, 95% CI 11.4, 21.0; 4-7 years, 11.3%, 95% CI 7.8, 14.8; 8 or more years, 8.3%, 95% CI 5.1, 11.4) and was lowest among women who had no previous births (6.3%, 95% CI 3.1, 9.4).
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/10362150/
Also
There did not appear to be a significantly higher rate of regret in nulliparous women undergoing tubal ligation than that seen in studies of parous women.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/7409229/
submitted by Silly_Wizzy to birthcontrol [link] [comments]


2020.12.28 20:41 Burning_Sparks Levels off. Getting back into an endo.

I have had a rough year. I was dxd with fibro a few years ago and hoshimotos 7 ish years ago.
This past year I felt I was going crazy. Falling, tripping, numb arms and hands. Weak arms no strength. Trouble swallowing and talking ..no memory..can't handle hot or cold...fatigue..daily headaches/migraines and now my cycle is gone.
I had mri's/xray which one showed some white spots on my brain but spinal cord was ok. My t5/S1 facet has hypotrphy(may have spelled that wrong).Neuro said no MS but did not know what was causing issues. I finally asked to have my thyroid checked. I been on synthroid for years at 100mcg.
And my levels are wonky. Reg doc says they are to conflicting to touch and I need the endo.
So now I am just searching for tips to help me survive better until the endo takes over. And I won't give up this time, I will stick with the apts. I didn't realize having hoshimotos can truly be so debilitating when things are wacky.
TSH 3rd Gen SerPl QN 4.627 mcU/ml Reference 0.4 -4.2 mcU/ml
T3 Free SerPl QN 4.1 pg/ml Reference 1.5-3.5 pg/ml
T4 Free Direct SerPl QN 1.0 ng/dl Reference 0.6-1.5 ng/dl
Doc did check a couple hormone levels and they were fine. I figure ill need these rechecked and maybe more blood work once I see the endo.
submitted by Burning_Sparks to thyroidhealth [link] [comments]


2020.08.20 03:24 umlautss [REVIEW] Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen vs. cheap dupe Kroger Invisible Gel

Hello all, I have been spending this summer playing sunscreen musical chairs in attempt to find my favorites. Sunscreen reviews on SCA have been incredibly helpful during this process, so I'd like to give back to the community by providing some content myself.
This is a comparison review of two American sunscreen options:
I'm also dipping my toe into European and Asian sunscreens right now to find my go-to's with better UVA protection, but I couldn't resist trying Supergoop to see what the hype is all about. I picked up the Kroger dupe as well to compare for "fun". I originally caught wind of it via this post.
Supergoop vs. Kroger photo album.
  1. Packaging
  2. Dispensed on my arm
  3. Immediately after application
  4. 10 minutes after application
TL;DR – Yes, the Kroger Invisible Gel is a pretty good Supergoop dupe. And it's much cheaper.

🌞 Product Information

An Overzealous Comparison Table
Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40 PA+++ Kroger Sunscreen Invisible Gel SPF 40
Where to purchase Supergoop website, Sephora, Dermstore, etc. Kroger (in store and online, free shipping over $35)
Country of manufacture USA USA
Price / Full size $34.00 / 1.7 oz $10.00 / 3.0 oz
Price per ounce $20.00 per oz $3.66 per oz
Applications per bottle (assuming 1/4 tsp) 40.8 applications 72 applications
Price per 1/4 tsp application ~$0.83 per application ~$0.15 per application
Filter type Chemical Chemical
Filter content Avobenzone, 3%, Homosalate 8%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 4% Avobenzone 3.0%, Homosalate 11.0%, Octisalate 5.0%, Octocrylene 10.0%
UVB protection SPF 40 SPF 40
UVA protection Broad spectrum, PA+++, PPD 9.9 (for old formula; unconfirmed for new formula) Broad spectrum, PA unknown, PPD unknown
Water-resistant claims "Up to 40 minutes" "Up to 80 minutes"
Environmental claims "Reef safe" "Reef friendly"
Packaging Squeeze tube Squeeze tube
Fragrance None; no distinct smell None, but does contain citrus peel oil; no distinct smell
Look + feel Gel texture, lightweight on face, easy to apply, no whitecast, "velvet finish". Very similar to Supergoop; dries down more slowly, slightly heavier texture to the touch.

SUPERGOOP! UNSEEN SUNSCREEN SPF 40
Active ingredients
Avobenzone, 3%, Homosalate 8%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 4%
Inactive ingredients
Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Isohexadecane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Meadowfoam Estolide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyester-7, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Jojoba Esters, Mannitol, Olibanum, Lecithin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Diatomaceous Earth, Zinc Sulfate, Silica, Tocopherol
Additional notes

KROGER SUNSCREEN INVISIBLE GEL SPF 40
Active ingredients
Avobenzone 3.0%, Homosalate 11.0%, Octisalate 5.0%, Octocrylene 10.0%
Inactive ingredients
Dimethicone, hydrated silica, isododecane, dimethicone crosspolymer, butyloctyl salicylate, disteardimonium hectorite, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polymethyl methacrylate, polyester-8, isohexadecane, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, lecithin, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, hexyl laurate, phenoxyethanol, bis-vinyldimethicone/PEG-10 dimethicone crosspolymer, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, tocopherol, mineral oil, aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Additional notes

🌞 Review

PROCESS
I have been using both of these intermittently for the past couple of weeks. I also did a direct comparison one day where I applied Supergoop on one half of my face and Kroger on the other.
I did not purchase a full size of the Supergoop, so feel free to take this as my "initial impressions", as the Supergoop sample size only provides about 8 applications using the 1/4 tsp rule. (If they're available, I prefer to try sample sizes of the products I'm considering before committing the counter space and the ca$h to full-size versions.)
Relevant about me and my skin: Female, late 20s. Relatively pale. My skin is oily but loves hydration. No known ingredient sensitivities, skin is relatively clear except for occasional hormone-induced breakouts. Other skin concerns: mild redness, managing pore appearance and sebaceous filaments, fading hyperpigmentation and previous sun damage.
Since this is a sunscreen review, my current morning routine may be helpful, too: Rinse face with water, pat dry. Timeless Vit C 20% + E + Ferulic. The Ordinary Caffeine 5% + EGCG under eyes. Hydrating serum if the mood strikes. Sunscreen.

APPLICATION

LOOK & FEEL

PROTECTION & PERFORMANCE
Please take the following with a grain of salt, as these are just my personal musings. I'm not a dermatologist or cosmetic chemist, I'm just a random person on the internet with skin.
UVA
UVB
Ingredient sensitivities

🌞 Conclusion

I'd recommend the Kroger Invisible Gel as a budget-friendly pick for Americans who currently love or want to try Supergoop! Unseen, but don't want to pay Supergoop prices.
If you are willing to compromise just slightly on texture to pay literally one fifth of the price per ounce, give the Kroger a try so you can slather yourself in velvety sunscreen without emptying your wallet. For those with sensitivities to chemical filters or silicones, or who don't like the primer-esque texture, this is probably one to skip.
You're kind of prioritizing cosmetic elegance over higher UVA protection with both options, but this may be somewhat unavoidable for those who don't want to deal with sourcing foreign sunscreens or a Zuckerberg-esque whitecast.
If you're in the US and willing to regularly spend $20 per ounce for a cosmetically elegant sunscreen like Supergoop, it may be worth your time to explore La Roche Posay or EltaMD sunscreens that offer equal elegance and better sun protection for your buck. Or even better, source Asian or European sunscreens to get better broad-spectrum protection.
If you don't live in the US, I would not recommend either of these sunscreens, as you probably have more easily accessible options at home that fit your criteria for UVA/UVB protection, cosmetic elegance, and/or budget.
Would I personally repurchase?
Not planning on it at the moment, given my focus on sunscreens that provide better UVA protection. If I were on a trip and forgot sunscreen or something, I would pick up the Kroger Invisible Gel again, since I know it is excellently priced, easy to apply, and has zero whitecast. Personally, the gel vehicle isn't my fave. I found it annoying that it takes basically eons to set on my face, and the slightly lighter consistency of the Supergoop does not justify the huge price jump for me.
submitted by umlautss to SkincareAddiction [link] [comments]


2020.06.13 18:55 Kittenmitons First FET positive thoughts to everyone

Anyone else have a transfer recently?
I had my first FET yesterday. A day 6 pgt tested embryo (that was 80% hatched? Not fully sure what that means). Everything went perfectly and my doctor said it all looked amazing. My blood test is 2 weeks after the transfer which seems kinda late to me but my clinic always does 2 week after transfer.
Yesterday and today I’m just chilling and trying out a new hobby - diamond painting! I had never heard of it but saw a video somewhere else on reddit and I’m giving it a try. Highly recommend for anyone that likes adult color books or paint by the number. I got children versions and it’s super easy and relaxing for me (also adorable).
https://i.imgur.com/sOgDnT5.jpg
Edit: thanks all! Think about it, statistically speaking at least one (if not more - and positive thoughts that we all beat the odds!) should walk away with a pregnancy. Happy energy, fingers crossed and all the good mojo at you all! (I almost started crying typing this - stupid excessive hormones!)
submitted by Kittenmitons to IVF [link] [comments]


2019.06.06 21:00 DangerDylan [Thursday, 06. June]

World News

'We Are Literally Sawing Off the Branch We All Live On': Amazon Deforestation Increasing Under Bolsonaro
Comments Link
11000 kg garbage, four dead bodies removed from Mt Everest in two-month long cleanliness drive by a team of 20 sherpa climbers.
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In First Official Visit, Irish Prime Minister Declines to Meet With Trump on a Golf Course Owned by the President
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All news, US and international.

11,000 kg garbage, four dead bodies removed from Mt Everest in two-month long cleanliness drive
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46 ice cream trucks are being seized in a New York City crackdown
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97-year-old former paratrooper makes another jump 75 years after D-Day
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Science

Metal foam stops .50 caliber rounds as well as steel - at less than half the weight - finds a new study. CMFs, in addition to being lightweight, are very effective at shielding X-rays, gamma rays and neutron radiation - and can handle fire and heat twice as well as the plain metals they are made of.
Comments Link
Experiences early in life such as poverty, residential instability, or parental divorce or substance abuse, can lead to changes in a child’s brain chemistry, muting the effects of stress hormones, and affect a child’s ability to focus or organize tasks, finds a new study.
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Thousands could perish annually in US if global heating not curbed, study finds. Every year nearly 5,800 people are expected to die in New York, 2,500 in Los Angeles and more than 2,300 in Miami
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Technology

As Google Ponders Making Ad Blockers Less Useful, Mozilla Ramps Up Tracker Blocking
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Microsoft discreetly wiped its massive facial recognition database
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'Surveillance capitalism': critic urges Toronto to abandon smart city project - Project with Google’s Sidewalk Labs comes under increasing scrutiny amid concerns over privacy and data harvesting
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Sadly, this is not the Onion.

"Sugar Daddy" Website Founder to Pay For Women in Alabama to Receive Abortions Out of State
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Three men announce plans to hold a "Straight Pride Parade" in Boston
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Americans spend roughly the same amount on legal weed and Taco Bell
Comments Link

Ask Reddit...

People who have made friends outside of work and school, how on earth did you do that?
Comments
What secret are you keeping right now?
Comments
Garbage men of reddit, what is the grossest thing you’ve seen in the garbage?
Comments

Sysadmin

Dear Vendors: If you want me to answer my phone, please turn on your outbound Caller ID. Every "unknown" call to me gets declined straight to VM.
Comments
My company and several OEM's have noticed premature failure on 600GB Drives
Comments
Accounting is so stoked with my PS script I they want to get me a present. Nice!
Comments

Microsoft SQL Server

Cron + SQL + Twilio in 3 minutes
Comments Link
KB affecting version output?
Comments
Need help/advice in making a real time report
Comments

PowerShell

Meet About - The Owner’s Manual for PowerShell
Comments Link
BlueKeep - Check Domain for Affected OS's + NMAP scan for RDP
Comments
Help - Building a DataTable using PS Jobs
Comments

Functional 3D Printing

Made a doorbell for my dog so he can let me know when he needs to come in the house!
Comments Link
Needed something to hold my markers, so I designed this in Fusion and off we go...
Comments Link
1-Pill Container Keychain!
Comments Link

Data Is Beautiful

Software developer job hunt as a new grad [OC]
Comments Link
Percentage of population incarcerated and amount of productivity lost in each state
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Cumulative cycling distance vs. events in my life [OC]
Comments Link

Today I Learned (TIL)

TIL that 80% of toilets in Hong Kong are flushed with seawater in order to conserve the city's scarce freshwater resources
Comments Link
TIL that Charlie Chaplin made the Hitler mocking film, "The Great Dictator", in 1940 using his own money because none of the Hollywood studios were comfortable irking the Germans as they had financial relations with them. The film is said to be one of the greatest works of Charlie Chaplin.
Comments Link
TIL how British Cmdr Terence Otway, wanting to be sure his men wouldn’t leak the D-Day plans, tested them by sending 30 pretty members of the Women’s Aux. Air Force in civilian clothes to the local pubs with instructions to do all they could try and get the info, but none of the men fell for it.
Comments Link

So many books, so little time

I read East of Eden... Oh boy.
Comments
Just finished The Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka and had a small question
Comments
I just finished reading Blood Meridian by Cormac McCarthy...
Comments

OldSchoolCool: History's cool kids, looking fantastic

Robert Plant signing the first Zeppelin album for a policeman in the early 80's
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Franceszka Mann, the Polish-jewish dancer. She was selected to be sent to the gas chamber of Auschwitz. She distracted the guards by undressing provocatively, grabbed the gun of one shot dead the roll call officer, injured another and inspired a rebellion amongst the female prisoners. 1940's
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My grandmother (1958). She is a national archery champion who shot her first deer with a bow when she was just 5 years old; crowned Miss Georgia in 1958; solo piloted in front of 25k to open the McCollum Field in Kennesaw, Georgia; the daughter of a Lockheed aviation engineer; and all around badass.
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aviation

Belgian Air Force painted an F16 in invasion stripes in honor of DDay
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Qatar Airways A380 creates amazing rainbow "contrail" in the sky as it flies over Germany
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V-22 over the Grand Canyon.
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Reddit Pics

Mistakes were made
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Moana Cosplay
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Photogenic Protestor
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.gifs - funny, animated gifs for your viewing pleasure

The best car riding buddy
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The Art of Kicking Fish - A dolphin feeding technique
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Every spring after long bouts of rain, a tadpole colony emerges in this ditch behind my house
Comments Link

A subreddit for cute and cuddly pictures

Boy sneaks into neighbors garage to hug doggo
Comments Link
This kiwi bird just found the surprise food box in its enclosure and is so excited about it! From the Orokonui Ecosanctuary in New Zealand
Comments Link
Real Pidgey
Comments Link
submitted by DangerDylan to DangerDylanTLDR [link] [comments]


http://activeproperty.pl/