Cushman wheel pullers
Best Cv Axle Removal Tools
2024.05.26 07:15 GuiltlessMaple Best Cv Axle Removal Tools
 | submitted by GuiltlessMaple to u/GuiltlessMaple [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/tkbe092vfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81eee0fd7c8cf0cfffeb027f1e206864c4dbd689 Welcome to our roundup of Cv Axle Removal Tools! These essential tools make the process of removing and replacing your cv axle a breeze, even for those with limited mechanical knowledge. We'll be sharing our top picks and highlights, helping you find the perfect tool for your needs. The Top 6 Best Cv Axle Removal Tools
Reviewsđź”—Handor 9-Hole CV Joint Puller Propshaft Separator Tool for Universal CV Axle Removalhttps://preview.redd.it/p0da2xkvfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcc49b78fb7d5036739e3059622967b6c0acfdb1 I've had the pleasure of using the Handor CV Joint Puller Propshaft Separator Tool 9 Holes Axle Removal in my daily life, and let me tell you, it's been a game-changer. This tool is designed to separate CV joints from axles without the need to remove the entire drive shaft - a timesaver that cannot be overstated. One aspect that stood out to me was its durability. Crafted from zinc-plated and black-oxide coated steel, the tool is built to last, resisting rust and corrosion for a long lifespan. It's compact too, with dimensions measuring at 9.4" x 5.75" (23.9cm x 14.6cm), making it a space-saving option that's perfect for any garage or workshop. Another highlight is its versatility. With nine adjustable holes, the tool can accommodate a range of joint assemblies, making it compatible with most vehicles equipped with CV joints. The collar ring opening is designed for axle passage, ensuring a secure fit while minimizing the risk of damage to the joints, transmissions, or other components. However, like any tool, it's not without its drawbacks. One downside I encountered was that it took some time to get the hang of using it, especially for those who aren't as familiar with mechanics. I also noticed that, while it's highly effective at its primary function, there were a few instances where I had to make minor adjustments to achieve the desired result. In spite of these minor drawbacks, the Handor CV Joint Puller Propshaft Separator Tool 9 Holes Axle Removal has proved to be a reliable and efficient product that's made my life as a mechanic significantly easier. It's a tool I'd highly recommend for anyone in need of a versatile and robust CV joint removal solution. đź”—Efficient Cv Axle Removal Tool Kit for Front Wheel Drive Vehicleshttps://preview.redd.it/5hrhg7xvfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1dbd3686d1f61547b61e1f93cea34ddf8c6724c I recently had the chance to try out the Bonbo 12020-2 Piece Axle Popper Kit. I was trying to work on my front wheel drive vehicle, and I found this tool to be incredibly helpful. As someone who appreciates simplicity in their tool set, I was impressed with how easy it was to use. What stood out to me the most was the fork-shaped end that allowed me to apply uniform pressure on both sides of the half shaft, ensuring a safe release. This was different from the pry bar and sliding hammer I had used in the past, and it made all the difference in my experience. The two-piece CV shaft ejection tool kit also made it suitable for most FWD vehicles, which was great to see. I appreciated the solid steel front fork that was designed with an open space, making it easy to install around my CV axle. The Popper wedges even started at a depth of 1/4 inch to fit the tight space at work. Using the tool was a breeze - simply insert the wedge-shaped wheel bearing tool between the transaxle housing and the shaft joint, with the fork-shaped end surrounding the shaft. Then, tap the end of the front fork to loosen the half shaft. Finally, use the shim popper to fill the larger gap on some vehicles. Overall, I had a positive experience using the Bonbo 12020-2 Piece Axle Popper Kit. It's a versatile and durable tool that can be used on a variety of front wheel drive vehicles, making it a great addition to any mechanic's toolbox. đź”—Sunluway - Powerful CV Axle Removal Tool for Easy Damaged Joints Fixhttps://preview.redd.it/d9c9lzbwfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c2fd318c5662ad6eb00065b943a73e151f8d463 I've been using the Sunluway 48mm Inner CV Axle Removal Tool for a couple of weeks now, and let me tell you, it's really come in handy for fixing those pesky damaged joints in various vehicles. The U-shaped design and 48mm opening size make it an easy tool to pull out hidden retaining rings with minimal effort. One of the great benefits of this tool is its ability to create added torque to apply a large amount of pressure on the CV axle, making it easier to remove axle assemblies from expensive transmission cases without any damage. It's compatible with Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable models from 1986 to the present, which is awesome for its accessibility. The tool also features an easy installation process. You simply attach it to your slide hammer, position it around the shaft behind the inner boot, and use a 5 lb hammer to create torque and pull out the axle. Don't forget to use lubricant fluid for added ease, as it can make the operation much smoother. Made from high-strength hardened steel, this tool from Sunluway is not only powerful but reliable as well, offering a longer service life. It's a simple tool, but it packs a punch, making it a must-have in any mechanic's toolbox. It fits slide hammers with 5/8-inch x 18 threads, which is a great added bonus. Overall, this removal tool has made my job as a mechanic much easier and more efficient. Highly recommended! đź”—Efficient Cv Joint Removal Tool for CV Axleshttps://preview.redd.it/0hh33qywfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62f1d9dbf209cd082f54b3c81e8c42e3e17bff25 As someone who has used the KUNTEC CV Joint Puller Propshaft Separator Tool in my own garage, I can attest to its ease of use and durability. This universal joint removal tool offers a quick and efficient way to separate the joint from the drive shaft, saving you both time and effort. The 9 holes on the tool provide full adjustment for various length joint assemblies, making it suitable for most cars. The tool's 244mm length and 100mm maximum CV joint diameter also make it a versatile addition to your mechanic's toolbox. Made of high quality galvanized metal iron material, the KUNTEC CV Joint Puller is built to withstand wear and tear for a longer lifespan. Overall, this tool makes a crucial investment for any car enthusiast who needs a reliable and efficient way to remove CV joints. đź”—Efficient CV Axle Removal Tool Set for Easy Vehicle Maintenancehttps://preview.redd.it/n4n4248xfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6630491974aaca442046bf69afde043211426a9 I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to use the Heavy Duty Slide Hammer Removal Tool Set for my CV Axle needs. This 10-pound tool is a game-changer when it comes to removing and installing stubborn CV axles. The ergonomic design and anti-rust treatment make the heavy-duty steel slide hammer and CV joint fork a durable and reliable option. The set also includes a steel wire joint puller and nuts, all neatly organized in a plastic case for easy carrying. One thing that stood out to me was the ease of use. If you've ever struggled with removing a CV axle without damaging the pricey aluminum transmission cases, this tool is a lifesaver. Simply slide the hammer onto the axle, and apply force without risk of breaking or damaging any components. đź”—Heavy Duty Cv Axle Removal Tool Kit for Front Wheel Drivehttps://preview.redd.it/3t9o61txfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cac9b517c28d59ad866cd136000f83c031ee47ab Last week, I found myself struggling with replacing my old, stubborn CV axle in my car. I was dreading the process, but a friend suggested using the Inner CV Joint Removal Tool Kit. This kit was a game-changer! I was impressed by how easy it made the process of removing and installing the new axle. One of the standout features of this tool kit was its heavy steel slide hammer. As someone who has worked with various slide hammers, I can tell you that this one was a beast. It was twice as heavy and twice as long as my old one, which made the job much easier and more efficient. The ergonomic design of the handle also made it incredibly comfortable to use, making the entire process a breeze. Another great feature of this tool kit was the versatility of the 63mm and 48mm CV joint forks. They could fit most vehicle models and were a lifesaver when I couldn't find the right size for my specific car. The kit also came with a manual puller and two 16mm nuts, which were perfect for securing the new axle in place. The compact plastic case made it easy to organize and carry the tools with me wherever I went. Overall, I highly recommend the Inner CV Joint Removal Tool Kit for anyone looking to make the process of replacing their car's CV axle a hassle-free experience. Buyer's GuideCv axle removal tools are essential for anyone needing to change or repair the drive axle of their vehicle. These tools make the process quicker and easier, reducing the likelihood of damaging the drive train components. In this buyer's guide, we will discuss the important features to consider when purchasing Cv axle removal tools. https://preview.redd.it/kteze52yfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5bdacdb13284dfd68c25ab3d862d976a7e01de9 Material and ConstructionLook for Cv axle removal tools that are made from durable, heat-resistant materials such as steel or aluminum. These materials can withstand the high temperatures generated during the removal process without warping or melting. Pay attention to the build quality and design details, such as the tightness of the hinge, locking mechanisms, and the overall weight and balance of the tool.Adjustability and FlexibilityA good Cv axle removal tool should be adjustable and flexible, allowing you to work on different vehicle models and axle types. Look for tools with multiple adjustment options and an easy-to-use locking mechanism. A tool with a flexible neck can also make the job easier, as it can accommodate different axle shapes and sizes. https://preview.redd.it/2ibs3mgyfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7513ab20e00ab5bcd1d746dafc1fee39ed61007a Ease of UseCv axle removal tools should be simple to use, even for beginners. Look for tools with clear and intuitive instructions, as well as any features that make the process easier, such as a handle or a pivot point for the tool.SafetySafety should always be a top priority when working with Cv axle removal tools. Ensure the tool has a secure locking mechanism and that it's designed in a way that minimizes the risk of accidental damage or injury. Check if the tool comes with any safety features, such as a lockout pin or a secondary locking mechanism. https://preview.redd.it/qzcm9wxyfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=365ba558a95262625cccf1fcb963b7fa7d6fc870 Durability and LongevityChoose a Cv axle removal tool that is built to last, with high-quality components and materials. Consider the warranty or return policy offered by the manufacturer, as well as any customer reviews or feedback about the tool's durability and longevity.Brand Reputation and Customer SupportPurchase your Cv axle removal tool from a reputable manufacturer with a history of providing high-quality products and excellent customer support. A good brand will also offer helpful resources and information about how to use and maintain their tools effectively.When purchasing Cv axle removal tools, consider the material, construction, adjustability, ease of use, safety, durability, longevity, and brand reputation. By taking these factors into account, you'll find the right tool for your needs and ensure a hassle-free experience when working on your vehicle's drivetrain. https://preview.redd.it/wcnmcoazfp2d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df6a398f21b8dbb1f284ff760c451fb2f0cc4229 FAQWhat are CV axle removal tools?CV axle removal tools are specialized tools designed to make the process of removing a CV (constant velocity) axle easier and more efficient. These tools typically include various sizes of sockets, spacers, and handles to provide enough leverage and grip to securely remove the axle.Why do I need CV axle removal tools?CV axle removal tools are necessary when you need to replace or repair a damaged CV axle. Standard socket wrenches may not provide enough leverage or grip to remove these axles effectively and may even damage the surrounding components. Using specialized tools ensures a smooth and successful removal process.What types of CV axle removal tools are available?There are several types of CV axle removal tools available in the market. These include socket-style tools, hydraulic tools, and power tools. Each type offers different features and benefits, making it important to select the right one based on your specific needs and the type of vehicle you are working on.Are hydraulic CV axle removal tools more effective than socket-style tools?Hydraulic CV axle removal tools may offer an advantage over socket-style tools in terms of ease of use. They utilize hydraulic pressure to apply force to the axle, which can help break the axle free without causing damage to the surrounding parts. However, socket-style tools are often more available and less expensive.What safety precautions should I take when using CV axle removal tools?
|
2024.05.25 21:12 2fromme Corvette Model C5 and C6 Metal Fuel Transfer Line removal and Pump replacement instructions.
NOTE: This can be done in your garage. It isn't easy but you can save yourself $3000 plus anything else a shop will break trying to do this job.
These instructions are for replacing the fuel pump and fuel tank for a Late model C5 and C6 Corvette that has the metal fuel transfer pipe between the two fuel tanks. I had to drop my tank twice. The 1st time was a leak from the tank that I thought I could easily fix, and the second time was to replace the tank and fuel pump. I highly recommend that you buy new transfer line gaskets. There are 2 O-rings. One green and one yellow. Also, use silicone grease to coat the fitting and O-rings before reconnecting everything. There are also O-rings in each tube connector that are inserted into the tank connector fitting. You can replace those, but if you don’t, they will only leak inside a closed system. I would buy all to be on the safe side. Also, buy new 2.5-inch exhaust gaskets. They are cheap and safer than sorry, later when you need them.
Sorry I don't have any pictures, but I am sure you have seen videos and pictures already. But what I do have for you is instructions that will save you money. Nowhere else have I seen details for this task. I learned the hard way and I now want to share my results on how to do it right the first time.
First: You will need to jack up your vet. I recommend car ramps for safety. I use 2 for the front. Then 2 floor jack stands in the rear. The back of the car frame needs to be jacked up about 15 inches from its normal position. This gives you room to work and allows you to slide the fuel tank in and out as needed. I used the jack stands under the rear main frame at each end and in the center, I used my floor jack with a 12 inch 4x4 to support the car as a secondary security measure. While doing this job, if the car falls, you're DEAD.
Next, disconnect the battery. Then remove the driver side rear tire and wheel liner. On the left side you will find the fuel inlet hose, vent and pump electrical. Remove each.
Removal of fuel.
If the tank has fuel in it, you can easily pump the fuel out if the fuel pump still works. At the back of the tank you will see a HP fuel line coming down from the fuel tank. You will need a fuel line disconnect tool. 9.5 MM or 3/8. Because this is plastic and the fuel line is attached close to the connector, you will have to break your removal tool in 2 pieces and insert each at an angle to release the fitting, otherwise the tool will not fit under the connector housing. Once that is removed you will have some fuel drain but only what's in the line. Next you will need some spare wire and a 12VDC supply. At the electrical connector you will find on either end, a black and (white or red) wire. The black is negative. On your provided wire you will need a connector crimped to the end. I used a 3/16 spade connector that fits perfectly into the fuel pump connector. You can also use a U connector and cut off one end. But it must be a small gauge connection. The color red is for small gauge wire. I connect a piece of clear tubing around the Female fuel line that led to a gas tank to contain the fuel was it pumped out. Insert the negative wire to black and positive to white. Now away from the car to ensure no fuel splashes on you are your source of power, connect power to the wires and the pump will empty the tank. Run until fuel starts spurting. That will leave you with 1/4 gallon in the tank. I don't recommend running the motor with no fuel in the tank.
If the fuel pump is no longer working, you can use a positive displacement suction pump to suck the fuel out through the fuel pump through the same line. Make sure you use a piston type pump that isolates the electrical system. I tried this first and it was slow in removing the fuel, and I had a full tank.
Removal of the tank
FYI, during this job, in most cases you can only look at the work needed to be performed then do the work, but not both unless you use a remote camera and light. Access it tight and limited.
The Fuel Transfer pipe is rigid but will compress some and will bend. It is critical to slide the connect off the tank, far enough to clear the fitting when dropping the tank. The tank is held up by 5 bolts on a steel plate. Remove the bolts. The tank will drop about an inch. Remove both the Exhaust bolts near the tank. You will be able to move the muffler pipe to the side to access the area. You will need this room to reach in to do your work.
To loosen the transfer pipe, you will need to release a small plastic clip, on the transfer line coupling, that prevents the pipe from coming loose. It is fragile, and all you need to do is find the small flat side and just pull it back from the grove that the connector is locked into. There is only one flat side to move on the ring clip. It is easy to do, just do not use force. It might break.
Next, grab the transfer tube collar and turn it CCW. Don't try to pull it loose from the tank. Just unscrew it. When loose it will spin freely.
Using a double braided 1/4 nylon braided rope, about 6 ft, pass one side around the transfer pipe near the connector. At one end of the rope, make a bowline with a long tail to grab later to remove the rope when completed. Now pass the open end of the rope through the bowline and tighten just behind the connector. Now pass the long end over the transmission and under all vent and tubing. Pass the rope behind the tubes that extend out of the transmission. You will be pulling this rope later to compress and move the transfer line. Bring the line down between the transmission and the main exhaust pipe. Now what I did was use a small 1/4 steel pulley with a small cable on the connector side and connected it to the passenger side outside tank cover plate bolt and tightened the bolt back up. Using a wrenching strap, connected the working end to the strut frame and the other to a bowline I put at the end of the rope.
Now using another small jack, jack the tank back up into place.
Here is the critical part.
The transfer pipe must come away from the tank strait back. The only way to do this is by making braces, using small strips of wood. I used 1/4 by 2 inch wide, strips of wood that I cut to about 14 inches long. Make your braces by inserting a length of this wood to where it pushes on the metal of the transfer line near the collar. While you have one in place and pushing, scratch the wood on the bolt hole brackets where the bottom steel tank cover screwed into. Now cut the wood to fit perfectly into that place. Use the rear 2 bolt hold brackets to make your braces then prop your wooden braces in on the brackets. This is to keep the connector from bending out of position for the next step.
Now start slowly tightening the strap. As you tighten the line you will begin to see the transfer pipe start to move. The rope will be very tight. In the middle of the transfer pipe is a steel clip that holds the center of the pipe in place. While tension is applied, using another piece of wood, push the bottom of this clip back and pull the center of the transfer pipe out just over the clip. The transfer pipe will compress a little and this action will allow the pipe to bend out away from the the center to give you the room you need to extract the pipe from the tank. When you have the connector pulled clear of the fuel tank enclosure, stop tightening the straps. Visually inspect the area and ensure the transfer line internal tubes are clear from the tank. If not, when you start to lower the tank, the tubes will get hooked and prevent the tank from falling.
Now you can lower the tank. As the tank drops, you will see the white vent line connection that you will have access to. This line is also connected to the tank and could break if you lower the tank too low before disconnecting it. You will have to push on the center of a compression tab to loosen the connection. This is a pain to do because you only have just a small amount room to reach the connection inside the tank compartment. I used a piece of rope rapped around the connector to hold it in place and a welding rod to push the button. If all else fails, you can used a gasket puller, this is a tool with a bent pointer used for removing gaskets, to pull the button on the connector out. It will come out if you work both sides slowly. Once out the vent connection will be released. This is the most time-consuming task at hand. The difficulty level is great.
NOTE. About the vent line. One side is connected to the top of your LH fuel tank and the other side goes to the top of the RH fuel Tank. Why have an additional vent line when you have a 2 inch pipe connecting both tanks that can vent pressure. To me, this was a poor design by a rookie engineer or a clever idea to make big buck when the fuel tanks had to be pulled. Once I disconnect this connector, I plugged both ends with vent fitting and using a screw with silicone, that I screwed into the line. The reason I did this is because you might have to pull that tank 4 or five times before you are finished the job and this connector will kick your butt each and every time. This is the second time I had to drop this tank. Once, many years ago, I had a fuel leak. It was because of a defect in the tank, documented in late 2004 models by GM. I pulled the tank and thought I could seal up the leak in the epoxy used to mate the tank transfer connector to the tank. I used silicone and it worked for a few years. The first time I pulled the tank I sealed this vent connection and was done messing with it. Then, years later, I had a bad leak coming from the driver’s side tank that caused me to pull the tank again. I discovered it was from a hairline crack in the top of the fuel pump. This time I replaced the Tank and the Fuel Pump Assembly.
Now drop the tank.
The tank should clear the transfer tube assembly prior to sliding it out. On the other side of the fuel tank, the fuel inlet line will pull through a hole with the vent and electrical connectors. Take care that they don't get hung up on anything while pulling the tank.
Now that you have the tank out
Fix whatever you have to fix or change what you need to change. Use other instructions especially for the fuel pump assembly replacement. Note, the fuel pump assembly will not come out of the tank easily. the plastic swells and you will have to break it out. Here are some notes you will need.
Things to check
Make sure you test the fuel level transmitter for proper polarity. You can do this with a simple multimeter set to test resistance. Mine was 4 ohms empty and 250 ohms full. I have read that some models are reversed. Figure this out or you will have fuel indication problem later. Not all units are the same. You can test your old pump assembly in the tank or on the ground. Instructions below for testing to make sure the fuel level sensor works properly.
Before installing your pump, make sure it works. Put it in a bucket of gas and test it using the instructions for fuel removal.
Tie a string to the internal connector inside the tank before inserting the pump. Carefully disconnect the internal lines at the transfer line attachment entry connector. DONT BREAK the CLIPS that hold them in place. Slide the hoses out a few inches. This makes it easy to pull the hoses past the pump assembly when the pump is inserted halfway in. You need to insert the pump before you have clearance to pull the tank line out and connect them to the fuel pump assembly. align the return line first then the fuel connector. This will not be an easy task. Use 1 string for each line.
Note the direction needed for the float arm. It should be pointed away from the Transfer line entry. Be gentle not to break the arm while fishing the two internal fuel lines to the fuel pump assembly. After you have inserted the new fuel assembly, check the resistance from the connector. The 2 center wires on the pump connect pigtail is for fuel indication. It should read 4 Ohms with the tank sitting flat and 250 Ohms with the tank upside down. This test makes sure the level arm swinging and working properly.
Removing the fuel pump assembly locking ring and reinstalling it. I used channel lock pliers to squeeze it off and on. Squeeze it at different points to ensure energy is applied evenly. Don't use a hammer. If you break a clip, you will need a new $350 tank.
Now you are ready to install the tank.
While the tank is out, inspect the transfer line fitting. Make sure no O-rings or fitting did not come out of the tank lines and stayed on the transfer line connectors. There are two lines just extruding from the transfer assembly. These lines are attached to the assembly by a slide bar inside the opening and can come loose if turned and then the internal lines will come out about an inch or even slide in. If this happens, you will need to slowly release the wrenched strap to fully extend the transfer line. Then you can turn the internal line assembly and reposition it. Properly inserted, the small line is on top and both lines should extend outside of the transfer line about 3/8 inch and aligned up and down. Then you will have to slowly tighten the strap and ensure the wood braces are in place when retracting the transfer line again.
Note. Sometimes when reinstalling the transfer line to the tank, especially if you don't do it slowly, the lines can come loose again. If this happens you must drop the tank again and repeat this step to align the transfer line internals.
Now you are ready to install the tank. If you decided to plug the vent lines, inserting the tank is easy. If not, get ready for a fight. Before inserting the tank, use a rope to tie the vent line and pump wiring to the end of the fuel tube. This tube must move through tight places, and you don't want some lines to get hung up. Plus, you can use the end of the line to pull until you can feel the fuel line coming above a catch point. You can't just push it. You must move the lines through a cave that will block you each time if you are not careful. Then you have to push the tank up while pulling the fuel line through the opening.
Once the fuel line has passed the opening you can then start jacking the tank up to connect the internal vent line above the tank. You will need to put the male tube inside of the opening and push until it clicks. Then check it. Make sure there is grease on the male side before starting. Once you have the vent reconnect then push the tank up slowly until the tank connection opening is past the tank enclosure opening. This is very tight access to view except from the forward inside side of the tank. There is a small spot where you can see the connector and the entry point. As best as you can make sure both are aligned before sliding the two together. Slowly release the strap wrench connector. Remember if you pull the wrench to tighten the strap just a little, you can release the backside of the wrench to loosen the strap a little at a time, smoothly. Make sure the Transfer line is moving straight into position. Once you get the line near, and you think they are aligned, continue losing the strap. You can reach up and slightly twist the transfer line by holding the tube past the connector. If the transfer line was correctly inserted, you will be able to easily turn the connector and clip the line in place. If it doesn't easily connect, it was misaligned, and you will have to pull the transfer line back out a little a twist the line slightly. If this still fails to connect, drop the tank again to ensure all O-rings are in place and the internal transfer assembly is in the correct position. This may take you 1 or 5 times to get it right.
Once you have successfully inserted the transfer line and clipped it in place, remove the jack stand holding the tank and visually inspect. If all looks good, then reinsert the small plastic locking device in place to prevent the connector from losing up. The last line to connect is the HP fuel fitting next to the tank. Make sure it is pushed in completely, until you hear it click and please use grease.
Now put everything back together.
Job time, it took me 6 hours to replace the tank and fuel pump. The first time I did this it took me 2 days to finally figure out the way.
submitted by 2fromme to Corvette [link] [comments]
These instructions are for replacing the fuel pump and fuel tank for a Late model C5 and C6 Corvette that has the metal fuel transfer pipe between the two fuel tanks. I had to drop my tank twice. The 1st time was a leak from the tank that I thought I could easily fix, and the second time was to replace the tank and fuel pump. I highly recommend that you buy new transfer line gaskets. There are 2 O-rings. One green and one yellow. Also, use silicone grease to coat the fitting and O-rings before reconnecting everything. There are also O-rings in each tube connector that are inserted into the tank connector fitting. You can replace those, but if you don’t, they will only leak inside a closed system. I would buy all to be on the safe side. Also, buy new 2.5-inch exhaust gaskets. They are cheap and safer than sorry, later when you need them.
Sorry I don't have any pictures, but I am sure you have seen videos and pictures already. But what I do have for you is instructions that will save you money. Nowhere else have I seen details for this task. I learned the hard way and I now want to share my results on how to do it right the first time.
First: You will need to jack up your vet. I recommend car ramps for safety. I use 2 for the front. Then 2 floor jack stands in the rear. The back of the car frame needs to be jacked up about 15 inches from its normal position. This gives you room to work and allows you to slide the fuel tank in and out as needed. I used the jack stands under the rear main frame at each end and in the center, I used my floor jack with a 12 inch 4x4 to support the car as a secondary security measure. While doing this job, if the car falls, you're DEAD.
Next, disconnect the battery. Then remove the driver side rear tire and wheel liner. On the left side you will find the fuel inlet hose, vent and pump electrical. Remove each.
Removal of fuel.
If the tank has fuel in it, you can easily pump the fuel out if the fuel pump still works. At the back of the tank you will see a HP fuel line coming down from the fuel tank. You will need a fuel line disconnect tool. 9.5 MM or 3/8. Because this is plastic and the fuel line is attached close to the connector, you will have to break your removal tool in 2 pieces and insert each at an angle to release the fitting, otherwise the tool will not fit under the connector housing. Once that is removed you will have some fuel drain but only what's in the line. Next you will need some spare wire and a 12VDC supply. At the electrical connector you will find on either end, a black and (white or red) wire. The black is negative. On your provided wire you will need a connector crimped to the end. I used a 3/16 spade connector that fits perfectly into the fuel pump connector. You can also use a U connector and cut off one end. But it must be a small gauge connection. The color red is for small gauge wire. I connect a piece of clear tubing around the Female fuel line that led to a gas tank to contain the fuel was it pumped out. Insert the negative wire to black and positive to white. Now away from the car to ensure no fuel splashes on you are your source of power, connect power to the wires and the pump will empty the tank. Run until fuel starts spurting. That will leave you with 1/4 gallon in the tank. I don't recommend running the motor with no fuel in the tank.
If the fuel pump is no longer working, you can use a positive displacement suction pump to suck the fuel out through the fuel pump through the same line. Make sure you use a piston type pump that isolates the electrical system. I tried this first and it was slow in removing the fuel, and I had a full tank.
Removal of the tank
FYI, during this job, in most cases you can only look at the work needed to be performed then do the work, but not both unless you use a remote camera and light. Access it tight and limited.
The Fuel Transfer pipe is rigid but will compress some and will bend. It is critical to slide the connect off the tank, far enough to clear the fitting when dropping the tank. The tank is held up by 5 bolts on a steel plate. Remove the bolts. The tank will drop about an inch. Remove both the Exhaust bolts near the tank. You will be able to move the muffler pipe to the side to access the area. You will need this room to reach in to do your work.
To loosen the transfer pipe, you will need to release a small plastic clip, on the transfer line coupling, that prevents the pipe from coming loose. It is fragile, and all you need to do is find the small flat side and just pull it back from the grove that the connector is locked into. There is only one flat side to move on the ring clip. It is easy to do, just do not use force. It might break.
Next, grab the transfer tube collar and turn it CCW. Don't try to pull it loose from the tank. Just unscrew it. When loose it will spin freely.
Using a double braided 1/4 nylon braided rope, about 6 ft, pass one side around the transfer pipe near the connector. At one end of the rope, make a bowline with a long tail to grab later to remove the rope when completed. Now pass the open end of the rope through the bowline and tighten just behind the connector. Now pass the long end over the transmission and under all vent and tubing. Pass the rope behind the tubes that extend out of the transmission. You will be pulling this rope later to compress and move the transfer line. Bring the line down between the transmission and the main exhaust pipe. Now what I did was use a small 1/4 steel pulley with a small cable on the connector side and connected it to the passenger side outside tank cover plate bolt and tightened the bolt back up. Using a wrenching strap, connected the working end to the strut frame and the other to a bowline I put at the end of the rope.
Now using another small jack, jack the tank back up into place.
Here is the critical part.
The transfer pipe must come away from the tank strait back. The only way to do this is by making braces, using small strips of wood. I used 1/4 by 2 inch wide, strips of wood that I cut to about 14 inches long. Make your braces by inserting a length of this wood to where it pushes on the metal of the transfer line near the collar. While you have one in place and pushing, scratch the wood on the bolt hole brackets where the bottom steel tank cover screwed into. Now cut the wood to fit perfectly into that place. Use the rear 2 bolt hold brackets to make your braces then prop your wooden braces in on the brackets. This is to keep the connector from bending out of position for the next step.
Now start slowly tightening the strap. As you tighten the line you will begin to see the transfer pipe start to move. The rope will be very tight. In the middle of the transfer pipe is a steel clip that holds the center of the pipe in place. While tension is applied, using another piece of wood, push the bottom of this clip back and pull the center of the transfer pipe out just over the clip. The transfer pipe will compress a little and this action will allow the pipe to bend out away from the the center to give you the room you need to extract the pipe from the tank. When you have the connector pulled clear of the fuel tank enclosure, stop tightening the straps. Visually inspect the area and ensure the transfer line internal tubes are clear from the tank. If not, when you start to lower the tank, the tubes will get hooked and prevent the tank from falling.
Now you can lower the tank. As the tank drops, you will see the white vent line connection that you will have access to. This line is also connected to the tank and could break if you lower the tank too low before disconnecting it. You will have to push on the center of a compression tab to loosen the connection. This is a pain to do because you only have just a small amount room to reach the connection inside the tank compartment. I used a piece of rope rapped around the connector to hold it in place and a welding rod to push the button. If all else fails, you can used a gasket puller, this is a tool with a bent pointer used for removing gaskets, to pull the button on the connector out. It will come out if you work both sides slowly. Once out the vent connection will be released. This is the most time-consuming task at hand. The difficulty level is great.
NOTE. About the vent line. One side is connected to the top of your LH fuel tank and the other side goes to the top of the RH fuel Tank. Why have an additional vent line when you have a 2 inch pipe connecting both tanks that can vent pressure. To me, this was a poor design by a rookie engineer or a clever idea to make big buck when the fuel tanks had to be pulled. Once I disconnect this connector, I plugged both ends with vent fitting and using a screw with silicone, that I screwed into the line. The reason I did this is because you might have to pull that tank 4 or five times before you are finished the job and this connector will kick your butt each and every time. This is the second time I had to drop this tank. Once, many years ago, I had a fuel leak. It was because of a defect in the tank, documented in late 2004 models by GM. I pulled the tank and thought I could seal up the leak in the epoxy used to mate the tank transfer connector to the tank. I used silicone and it worked for a few years. The first time I pulled the tank I sealed this vent connection and was done messing with it. Then, years later, I had a bad leak coming from the driver’s side tank that caused me to pull the tank again. I discovered it was from a hairline crack in the top of the fuel pump. This time I replaced the Tank and the Fuel Pump Assembly.
Now drop the tank.
The tank should clear the transfer tube assembly prior to sliding it out. On the other side of the fuel tank, the fuel inlet line will pull through a hole with the vent and electrical connectors. Take care that they don't get hung up on anything while pulling the tank.
Now that you have the tank out
Fix whatever you have to fix or change what you need to change. Use other instructions especially for the fuel pump assembly replacement. Note, the fuel pump assembly will not come out of the tank easily. the plastic swells and you will have to break it out. Here are some notes you will need.
Things to check
Make sure you test the fuel level transmitter for proper polarity. You can do this with a simple multimeter set to test resistance. Mine was 4 ohms empty and 250 ohms full. I have read that some models are reversed. Figure this out or you will have fuel indication problem later. Not all units are the same. You can test your old pump assembly in the tank or on the ground. Instructions below for testing to make sure the fuel level sensor works properly.
Before installing your pump, make sure it works. Put it in a bucket of gas and test it using the instructions for fuel removal.
Tie a string to the internal connector inside the tank before inserting the pump. Carefully disconnect the internal lines at the transfer line attachment entry connector. DONT BREAK the CLIPS that hold them in place. Slide the hoses out a few inches. This makes it easy to pull the hoses past the pump assembly when the pump is inserted halfway in. You need to insert the pump before you have clearance to pull the tank line out and connect them to the fuel pump assembly. align the return line first then the fuel connector. This will not be an easy task. Use 1 string for each line.
Note the direction needed for the float arm. It should be pointed away from the Transfer line entry. Be gentle not to break the arm while fishing the two internal fuel lines to the fuel pump assembly. After you have inserted the new fuel assembly, check the resistance from the connector. The 2 center wires on the pump connect pigtail is for fuel indication. It should read 4 Ohms with the tank sitting flat and 250 Ohms with the tank upside down. This test makes sure the level arm swinging and working properly.
Removing the fuel pump assembly locking ring and reinstalling it. I used channel lock pliers to squeeze it off and on. Squeeze it at different points to ensure energy is applied evenly. Don't use a hammer. If you break a clip, you will need a new $350 tank.
Now you are ready to install the tank.
While the tank is out, inspect the transfer line fitting. Make sure no O-rings or fitting did not come out of the tank lines and stayed on the transfer line connectors. There are two lines just extruding from the transfer assembly. These lines are attached to the assembly by a slide bar inside the opening and can come loose if turned and then the internal lines will come out about an inch or even slide in. If this happens, you will need to slowly release the wrenched strap to fully extend the transfer line. Then you can turn the internal line assembly and reposition it. Properly inserted, the small line is on top and both lines should extend outside of the transfer line about 3/8 inch and aligned up and down. Then you will have to slowly tighten the strap and ensure the wood braces are in place when retracting the transfer line again.
Note. Sometimes when reinstalling the transfer line to the tank, especially if you don't do it slowly, the lines can come loose again. If this happens you must drop the tank again and repeat this step to align the transfer line internals.
Now you are ready to install the tank. If you decided to plug the vent lines, inserting the tank is easy. If not, get ready for a fight. Before inserting the tank, use a rope to tie the vent line and pump wiring to the end of the fuel tube. This tube must move through tight places, and you don't want some lines to get hung up. Plus, you can use the end of the line to pull until you can feel the fuel line coming above a catch point. You can't just push it. You must move the lines through a cave that will block you each time if you are not careful. Then you have to push the tank up while pulling the fuel line through the opening.
Once the fuel line has passed the opening you can then start jacking the tank up to connect the internal vent line above the tank. You will need to put the male tube inside of the opening and push until it clicks. Then check it. Make sure there is grease on the male side before starting. Once you have the vent reconnect then push the tank up slowly until the tank connection opening is past the tank enclosure opening. This is very tight access to view except from the forward inside side of the tank. There is a small spot where you can see the connector and the entry point. As best as you can make sure both are aligned before sliding the two together. Slowly release the strap wrench connector. Remember if you pull the wrench to tighten the strap just a little, you can release the backside of the wrench to loosen the strap a little at a time, smoothly. Make sure the Transfer line is moving straight into position. Once you get the line near, and you think they are aligned, continue losing the strap. You can reach up and slightly twist the transfer line by holding the tube past the connector. If the transfer line was correctly inserted, you will be able to easily turn the connector and clip the line in place. If it doesn't easily connect, it was misaligned, and you will have to pull the transfer line back out a little a twist the line slightly. If this still fails to connect, drop the tank again to ensure all O-rings are in place and the internal transfer assembly is in the correct position. This may take you 1 or 5 times to get it right.
Once you have successfully inserted the transfer line and clipped it in place, remove the jack stand holding the tank and visually inspect. If all looks good, then reinsert the small plastic locking device in place to prevent the connector from losing up. The last line to connect is the HP fuel fitting next to the tank. Make sure it is pushed in completely, until you hear it click and please use grease.
Now put everything back together.
Job time, it took me 6 hours to replace the tank and fuel pump. The first time I did this it took me 2 days to finally figure out the way.
2024.05.23 11:17 GhoulGriin Best Control Arm Bushing Tools
 | submitted by GhoulGriin to u/GhoulGriin [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/58jkrvn7852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=28c613f837ede38f7ec99804289d8610c817fd26 Tighten up your suspension game with our Control Arm Bushing Tools roundup. These must-have tools will keep your vehicle's ride smooth and your wheels firmly in place. Discover the best options for maintaining control and ensuring safety on the road. Get ready to dive in as we help you navigate through the essential tools to keep your car running smoothly for miles. The Top 13 Best Control Arm Bushing Tools
Reviews🔗Fast & Easy Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Kit for Ford GM Carshttps://preview.redd.it/ad5nyh58852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5fccfec6a71b5cc5511d0affb5a43406bea92f4 I have been using the Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Kit for Ford and GM cars, and the change it has brought to my vehicle maintenance process has made my life so much easier. Having all the adapters needed for quick bushing removal and installation without removing the control arm from the vehicle has saved me time and energy. Not having to worry about buying additional tools or searching for the right one is just a small part of the convenience this toolkit offers. The best part? . It's incredibly easy to use and its effectiveness is evident in how smoothly my car runs now. Plus, its versatile use on Ford and GM cars makes it a must-have for car owners who don't want to skimp on quality and performance. But, one downside I encountered was the occasional need to apply extra force while removing the bushings due to some sticky residues. However, this shouldn't deter you from trying out this remarkable tool. Overall, I am highly satisfied with this Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Kit and would recommend it to anyone who wants a hassle-free car maintenance experience. 🔗STemco Control Arm Bushing Install Toolhttps://preview.redd.it/1yvir2g8852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=895d76307ed87108e298411a917a80378874966d I recently got my hands on the Stemco ST70-30 Control Arm Bushing Tools, and I have to say, it's been a game-changer for me. As an avid DIYer, I've always struggled with installing bushing sleeves on my Kaiser K80A and Kingpin K120A vehicles. The ST70-30 made a world of difference, saving me so much time and effort. The first thing that struck me was how easy it was to use. The simple yet sturdy design allowed me to install the bushing sleeves with precision and ease. The built-in depth gauge was a welcome addition, ensuring I was installing the sleeves to the correct depth. However, one downside I found was that the tool could be a bit too tight. It took a bit of elbow grease to get it started, but once it got going, it was smooth sailing. All in all, the Stemco ST70-30 Control Arm Bushing Tools are a must-have for anyone working on Kaiser K80A and Kingpin K120A vehicles. It's made my life so much easier and has given me the confidence to tackle more challenging tasks. 🔗Multi-Functional Bearing and Bushing Repair Tool Sethttps://preview.redd.it/el0cl2w8852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=870189b8c9e41a799cc67c2a5db46ba93e51e512 I recently used the OEMTOOLS 27212 Manual Bushing Installation and Removal Tool Set to replace the bushings in my vehicle, and I must say, it saved me a ton of time and effort. The kit comes with four unique end plates and four force screws, all stored in a convenient carry-case. This set is perfect for both auto experts and DIY mechanics who want to avoid damaging their bearings or suspension housings while working on various repair projects. One of the standout features of this tool set is its ability to be used in a workshop press when on-site access is limited. The plates and sleeves are designed to fit standard presses, allowing for versatile use in different environments. The 20 included cups and receivers provide an extensive range of sizes (from 44 mm to 82 mm) to cater to various repair needs. Another highlight of this OEMTOOLS bushing press kit is its innovative cup design, which enables users to easily monitor the progress of their bush or bearing removal or installation. The threaded forcing screws used in the tool set are equipped with ball bearings, reducing stress on the threads and ensuring a smooth and efficient repair process. However, one downside I experienced with this bushing installation tool set is its limited availability in local auto parts stores. I had to wait for the shipment, but it was worth the wait as it made my repair job incredibly easy. Overall, I highly recommend this set for anyone looking to remove or install suspension bushings, wheel bearings, or seals with ease and precision. 🔗Efficient Control Arm Bushing Replacement Tool Sethttps://preview.redd.it/9ho738d9852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0323ddeaa9ef6b40554fb40d7ad7cde97e0faa4 I recently got my hands on the OEMTOOLS 27206 Upper Control Arm Bushing Service Set and let me tell you, it's been a game-changer for me! Working on my dad's old car can be quite a hassle, but this little set made everything so much easier. The highlight for me was definitely not having to remove the control arm from the vehicle. It's not just about convenience, but also about ensuring that everything stays securely in place while I work on it. Another thing that I absolutely loved is how well it's packaged. The sturdy blow molded case not only keeps these parts safe and organized but also makes transporting them super easy. And let's not forget about the mechanical screw power feature. It's like having a mini assistant helping you replace those bushings without breaking a sweat or straining your muscles. However, there is one concern that I have with this set. Some of the adapters might not fit perfectly with all types of control arms. So, it's important to double-check and see if everything lines up nicely before starting your work. Overall, I would highly recommend the OEMTOOLS 27206 Upper Control Arm Bushing Service Set to anyone looking for an efficient and reliable way to work on their vehicle's control arm bushings. 🔗GM Control Arm Bushing Removal and Installation Tool Service Sethttps://preview.redd.it/abx1y2o9852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24dcf03d865c33b361fb91663eb15904fe5fb0dd I was excited to try out the Upper Lower Control Arm Bushing Removal and Installation Tool Service Set, and it didn't disappoint! . As a long-time fan of classic Chevelles, I couldn't wait to put the tool to use on my 1968 model. The first thing that stood out was the high-quality stainless steel construction paired with the sleek black lightweight powder coating, making it not only safe and efficient but also visually appealing. Removing and replacing the bushings in my control arms has never been this easy and safe, and even better, the tool set's various components made it a breeze to use without worrying about damaging my A-arm during the process. Overall, I believe this is a must-have for those working on the control arms of their classic GM vehicles, like my beloved Chevelle. 🔗Schley Products Trailing Arm Bushing Remover Installer for Honda/Acurahttps://preview.redd.it/gyl28bca852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c796d0ab231b5d02445e3d803b5fdacf4c2e69f2 As a mechanical enthusiast, I recently needed to replace the trailing arm bushings on my trusty Honda Civic. I came across the Schley Products 65100 Honda Acura Trailing Arm Bushing Remover Installer and decided to give it a shot. The first thing that caught my attention was how easy it was to use. Unlike the traditional method that involves using a hydraulic press or removing the trailing arm from the vehicle, this tool did the job in a matter of minutes. The packaging claims it requires only 15 minutes per side compared to the factory "book" time of 138 hours per side. I was skeptical at first, but my doubts were quickly put to rest as I found the tool to be incredibly efficient and user-friendly. Another feature that made a difference was its ability to remove the bushing without needing to disconnect brake parts such as calipers, rotors, brake shoes, brake fluid lines, and emergency brake cables. This not only saved me time but also ensured that I did not have to deal with the complex assembly of these components once the job was done. In terms of quality, the Schley Products 65100 felt sturdy and well-constructed. The metal components were thick, and the welds were strong, inspiring confidence in its ability to handle the task at hand. The blow-molded case provided a convenient way to store the tool when not in use, and it kept all the components organized and protected. However, there were a few minor drawbacks that I encountered during my experience. First, the tool can produce quite a bit of noise when removing the bushing, which may be startling for some users. Second, applying enough force to install the new bushing can take a bit of effort, but it is manageable with some patience and the right technique. Overall, I am very satisfied with the Schley Products 65100 Honda Acura Trailing Arm Bushing Remover Installer. It has made replacing trailing arm bushings a much more manageable task, saving me a significant amount of time and effort. I would highly recommend this tool to anyone looking to simplify their Honda or Acura bushing replacement process. 🔗Dorman Suspension Control Arm Bushing Remover Toolhttps://preview.redd.it/ifrxw7ja852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55981953af103172d234f1fb6120daf304b38f40 Well, my car needed some major tune-ups the other day, and I decided to give the Dorman Control Arm Bushing Tool a try. As someone who's not exactly skilled with car repairs, I was initially intimidated by the idea of removing suspension bushings. But this tool proved to be a game-changer! It's precision-engineered, with a design that perfectly matches original components. It made removing those pesky bushings a piece of cake, without causing any damage to other parts of my car. The tool isn't just precise in design, but also in construction. It's made from durable steel, ensuring it's safe and can withstand a lot of use. Plus, it's manufactured according to strict standards, and undergoes rigorous testing for quality assurance. Not to forget, Dorman has put in place thorough quality control measures to ensure the tool's longevity. However, one downside is that it doesn't come with a carrying case, which would have made storing and transporting it easier. But overall, the Dorman Control Arm Bushing Tool has definitely made my car repairs a simpler ordeal. If you're looking for a reliable, precision-engineered tool for your car repair needs, this one is a solid choice. 🔗Automotive Lower Control Arm Prying Toolhttps://preview.redd.it/cbjzxxua852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=820fedaa782068b6509fe2583bf84536c85d1453 You know that feeling when you're struggling with a stubborn bushing, and it seems like there's not enough elbow grease in the world to get it done? Well, the Mission Automotive Lower Control Arm Prying Tool is here to save the day. This little gadget has been my sidekick in many automotive repair adventures, and I couldn't imagine my toolbox without it. The best part about this prying tool is its versatility. It's compatible with most, if not all, front-wheel-drive vehicles out there, from domestic cars to imports and minivans. Its ability to work with any 7/8" diameter pry bar creates a seamless fit that ensures precision and efficiency in every repair job. But wait, there's more! This tool isn't just a one-trick pony. Its unique design allows it to provide instant leverage, making bushing removal easier and faster than ever before. As someone who loves to tinker with cars in my free time, I can attest to the fact that this really streamlines the repair process, saving both time and energy. However, no product is perfect. While the Mission Automotive Lower Control Arm Prying Tool has been incredibly useful for me, some users have reported that it may not fit as snugly on certain vehicles as they'd like. Additionally, the price point might be a deterrent for those on a tight budget or just starting out in the world of automotive repairs. In conclusion, if you're in need of a trusty tool to help with your repair projects, the Mission Automotive Lower Control Arm Prying Tool is definitely worth considering. Its versatility, ease of use, and ability to enhance efficiency make it a valuable addition to any mechanic's toolbox. Just be prepared to spend a little extra for this high-quality gadget. Happy wrenching! 🔗Control Arm Pry Toolhttps://preview.redd.it/g5pkt1ab852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f74692da8fe15f8474f7c1313178bdd5095482e6 I recently found myself in a bit of a predicament when I needed to replace the lower control arm on my vehicle. I was initially hesitant about tackling this task on my own, but after discovering the Performore Automotive 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool, I knew I had to give it a shot. The prying tool was incredibly easy to install. Its 13mm wire diameter and black powder-coated finish made it simple to maneuver around the various components of my car's suspension system. I appreciated the fact that it can handle up to a 0.5 ton capacity, which is more than enough for most applications. One particularly useful feature was its compatibility with most front-wheel drive vehicles, including import cars, domestic vehicles, and minivans. This made it a versatile tool that I could use on multiple vehicles in my household. However, there were a few minor drawbacks. The prying tool is made of high-quality steel, which is both sturdy and durable, but it can be slightly heavy to handle for extended periods. Additionally, due to its 13mm wire diameter, it may not fit perfectly in all control arms, although this was not an issue for me. Overall, the Performore Automotive 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool has been a game-changer for me when it comes to performing maintenance on my vehicle's suspension system. Its ease of installation, versatility, and durability make it a worthwhile investment for any car enthusiast or DIY mechanic. 🔗Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool for Classic GMhttps://preview.redd.it/x7pxmrlb852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d0d04c498843b287c68da27567ee4b2561ebee9 As an avid enthusiast of classic GM vehicles, I first came across the Ridetech Bushing Removal/Installation Tool when I faced the daunting task of replacing the worn-out bushings in my 1972 Chevy Nova. Tired of the constant headaches from traditional bushing removal techniques, I decided to give this innovative tool a try, and boy, am I glad I did. From the moment you unbox the Ridetech tool, its precision and craftsmanship are evident. It's designed specifically for installing and removing bushings in classic GM factory control arms, making it a tailor-made solution for vintage vehicle restoration projects. The tool is compatible with 1967-1981 F-Body, 1964-1972 A-Body, and 1968-1974 Nova models, ensuring it catered to a wide range of enthusiasts. One of the major challenges I've always faced when working on my Chevy Nova is the time-consuming and tedious process of removing old bushings. With the Ridetech bushing removal tool, however, I can now eliminate this tedious task and complete a job in a fraction of the time it would usually take me. The tool's precise engineering and ergonomic design make it incredibly user-friendly and comfortable to use, even for long durations. While the Ridetech bushing removal tool has undoubtedly been a game-changer in my vehicle restoration projects, there are a few minor drawbacks that I should mention. Firstly, like any specialized tool, there is a slightly steep learning curve to master its full potential. Additionally, due to the precision required during the removal and installation process, even the slightest mistake can result in damage to the control arms or bushes. However, these cons are by no means deal-breakers, and the benefits far outweigh any potential drawbacks. In conclusion, the Ridetech Bushing Removal/Installation Tool for classic GM factory control arms has been a game-changer for me, significantly reducing the time and effort required for bushing maintenance on my 1972 Chevy Nova. Its compatibility with various GM models and precision engineering make it a valuable addition to any classic automobile restoration project, and I wholeheartedly recommend it to other enthusiasts looking for a more efficient and enjoyable way to work on their vehicles. 🔗Universal Ball Joint Service Kit for Control Arm Bushing Removal and Installationhttps://preview.redd.it/w08mgqxb852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbc0fead574482556562bfdebe407e92613438bf I recently got my hands on the DAYUAN Universal Ball Joint Service Kit, and let me tell you, it's been a game-changer. As a DIYer who loves tinkering with my car, I've always found removing or replacing ball joints and universal joints a hassle. But not anymore! This kit has made my life much easier. The first thing that grabbed my attention was its solid construction - it's made from high-quality carbon steel, hence extremely durable. And the rust-proof finish? A plus! I no longer have to worry about my tools rusting away in my garage. It's not just the build; the functionality is on point too. The kit includes all types of receiver tubes and disassembly/installation adapters, making it incredibly versatile. Its C-press design is especially noteworthy. It allowed me to remove and replace seals with ease, saving me a lot of time and effort. One feature that really stood out for me was the blow-molded case. It's not only secure but also organized. All my tools are neatly stored, easy to find, and portable, making my garage cleanup a breeze. However, there were a few minor cons. The instructions could have been clearer, but after a little trial and error, I figured it out. Also, while the tools are indeed durable, they can be a bit heavy for extended use. Overall, the DAYUAN Universal Ball Joint Service Kit has been a useful addition to my toolkit. It's made my car repair tasks much more manageable and efficient, making me feel like a professional mechanic. I highly recommend it to anyone who loves working on their vehicles. 🔗Dorman Control Arm Bushing Removal Toolhttps://preview.redd.it/4l4vczec852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ff079ce0bee472845cb00ba15a78f50653c78df As a seasoned mechanic, I've encountered my share of stubborn suspension bushings. That's why the Dorman 546-900 Suspension Control Arm Bushing Tool has been a game-changer for me. Its precision-engineering ensures that I can remove those bushings without causing any damage to surrounding components - it's like having a secret weapon in my toolbox! The tool is designed to mimic the original components in terms of fit and dimensions, which means zero guesswork. Its durability is impressive too, thanks to the use of sturdy, safe materials. Every piece is manufactured under strict standards, then rigorously tested to ensure that it won't let you down when you need it most. One thing that stands out about this tool is its thorough quality control measures. Every unit is carefully scrutinized before it leaves the factory, a testament to Dorman's commitment to longevity. It's clear they value their customers and want to provide a solution that lasts. However, one minor drawback is that the range of applications covered by this tool isn't as wide as some others on the market. Still, for those specific models it supports, this tool is an absolute lifesaver and definitely worth checking out. All in all, the Dorman 546-900 Suspension Control Arm Bushing Tool has made my life a whole lot easier. It's reliable, precise, and durable - three qualities every mechanic needs in their tools. So, if you're dealing with stubborn suspension bushings, give this tool a try. You won't be disappointed! 🔗Schley SL11100 Bushing Removal and Installation Kithttps://preview.redd.it/z2s5t5oc852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bdccbfc12bce5475f76bbb246b1057094cf18fdf I recently had the opportunity to try out the Schley Products SL11100 Manual Bushing Removal and Installation Kit, and I must say, it has made bushing replacement a breeze. As a busy technician, I was always frustrated with the inconvenience of using a conventional press to replace bushings in various parts of suspension components. However, this kit has drastically reduced the time and effort required for such tasks. One of the main highlights of this manual bushing kit is its wide range of compatibility, allowing professionals to service various bushings without even removing them from the vehicle. This not only accelerates the whole process but also reduces the chance of damaging other components. Another feature I genuinely appreciate is its budget-friendly pricing as compared to costly hydraulic systems. With the kit's 22 cups and receivers, one can service hundreds of size combinations effortlessly, making it an incredibly versatile tool. The four acme thread spindles, in sizes 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 16mm, each fitted with ball bearing thrust washers ensure smooth operation and durability. However, one con I noticed during its usage was the occasional need for extra patience and precision when dealing with bushings in tight spaces. Nevertheless, the overall experience using the Schley Products SL11100 Manual Bushing Removal and Installation Kit has been nothing short of impressive. It's definitely a game-changer for anyone in the automotive sphere dealing with bushings on a regular basis. Buyer's Guidehttps://preview.redd.it/o7rlih4d852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e79c3cea7bb7942e39479ee4737a6e37928573c8 None FAQhttps://preview.redd.it/xrfjtjjd852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=651cda8c7fc6258bc672636b4bc93a5d08c47076 What are Control Arm Bushing Tools?Control Arm Bushing Tools are specifically designed to make the process of replacing or repairing control arm bushings much simpler and more efficient. These tools can be used to install or remove the bushings, which are essential components in a vehicle's suspension system that help absorb shocks and provide stable handling.What types of bushing tools are available?https://preview.redd.it/g1w124ud852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a77cf06ec5c8f63c2e51223106ffcdae6e6d9b0a There are several types of control arm bushing tools available on the market, including pullers, presses, and hydraulic tools. The choice of tool depends on the specific make and model of the vehicle as well as the type of bushing that is being replaced. Which bushing tools are best for beginners?For beginners, we recommend starting with a basic puller and press kit, as these are typically easier to use and offer a more straightforward approach to bushing replacement. As you gain experience and confidence, you may want to consider investing in more advanced tools, such as hydraulic presses, for more efficient replacements. https://preview.redd.it/hpf02u5e852d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b930b28f13da149c4b40b51e7f0dee1d6a9b91c How do I choose the right tools for my vehicle?To choose the right control arm bushing tools for your vehicle, refer to your vehicle's repair manual or consult with a professional mechanic. They will be able to provide specific guidance on the appropriate tools and techniques for your specific make and model, as well as any special considerations or challenges you may face during the repair process.What safety precautions should I take when using bushing tools?When using control arm bushing tools, prioritize safety by wearing protective gear, such as gloves and safety glasses, to reduce the risk of injury. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembly and use of the tools, and always ensure that the tools are secure before applying pressure to avoid accidents or damage to the vehicle.How can I ensure accurate alignment after replacement of control arm bushings?To ensure accurate alignment after replacing control arm bushings, use a high-quality alignment tool to check and adjust the alignment of the vehicle's wheel and suspension components. This will help ensure optimal handling, safety, and tire longevity.Can I use these tools on other suspension components besides control arm bushings?Some control arm bushing tools, such as presses and hydraulic presses, may be suitable for use on other suspension components, such as ball joints or tie rod ends. However, it is essential to consult the manufacturer's instructions or seek professional advice to ensure that the tools are suitable for your specific application.As an Amazon™ Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. |
2024.05.22 21:24 Jib01 The Need For Speed 3: The Search For More Torque
 | So I’m back with another, and hopefully final, installment of need for speed, RC Tank Edition. submitted by Jib01 to rctanks [link] [comments] So for those of you following at home, here’s the score. I felt that the stock speed for the HL Abrams is too slow for a modern tank. I ended up calculating that it should be able to achieve 3.87 feet per second at top speed going forward. I recorded the speed by having the tank get a running start (my MFU simulates shifting and acceleration, so it takes a little bit to achieve top speed) and zooming next to a tape measure pulled out to 10 ft. I start and stop a stop watch, do some calculations and record the average feet per second with the current set up. Here are my numbers from last combinations. Remember my goal is to achieve 3.87 feet per second. Stock HL Abrams Pro with 2s LiPo: 2.22 ft/sec Same, using red 390 motors: 3.50 ft/sec Same, using silver 480 motors: 3.33 ft/sec Abrams Pro with 3s LiPo and 390 motor: 4.63 ft/sec I was fine here for a while because I had achieved a speed greater than my target, so I could scale it back a little. However, I took it took a different, from normal, park to drive around and was promptly defeated by 2-4” grass. Normally I drive around the park near my house and the grass is mostly 1-2”. I decided maybe this could be solved with more torque, so I pulled a 550 motogearbox combo off of the shelf to try to fit it in the tank, hoping this would give me more torque. I bought these from DKLMRC and the were originally meant for a metal lower hull Leopard 2A6. I think these are the same motogearbox combos that ToucanHobby uses in their customized tanks that they sell. Although it was meant for the metal 2A6, I found the holes on the gearbox lined up perfectly with the holes and plastic standoffs on the plastic HL Abrams Pro. The only two issues were that the screws had to be drilled in from the bottom up, instead of the top down, and that the 550s were too large to fit with the gear boxes in the lower hull of the Abrams. I mounted each motor with 3 screws, a M3 20mm button head, a M3 20mm flat head (to fit against he angle of the hull) and a M3 25mm button head that I cut down to a 22mm length. In the picture the mounting areas are circled in red, and areas where I had to cut are circled in blue. I had some Tamiya 540 J motors I bought when trying to find a better motor for the Abrams from before. I was going to return them and never did, which was fortunate. After waiting for a better gear puller, I swapped out the pinion gears, put everything back together, calibrated the motors with the MFU, and finally took it out for a spin today. I did the same test, but outside, and using 20 feet of tape measure (you can see it off in the distance in the video). My speed result was this: Abrams Pro with 3s LiPo and 540 motors: 6.09 feet per second. That’s almost triple the stock speed. But… not enough to defeat the grass unfortunately, or at least not enough to overcome the engineering of the tank. As you can see in the pictures, the grass gummed up the driveway sprockets so much that it just stopped moving. Wasn’t detracked, the motors just eventually said no. To their credit I drop through a couple hundred feet of 3-4” grass before they finally gave up. I’m interested to get my King Tiger out in this grass. I’ve never had an issue with any of my other tanks sucking up grass like this, but all of my other tanks are front wheel drive. I remember hearing something in a documentary that most WWII tanks were front wheel drive because they thought all of the gunk from the ground would shake off before it got to the driveway sprocket. Maybe there’s something to that after all. So that’s it. I don’t know that I can go up in motor size without going up in tank size, so I’m going to stop fooling with the drive gear finally. I’m sure there’s some obstacles to climb or something that would be fun, but I’m going to have to take terrain more into consideration when choosing what tank to bring with me. |
2024.05.20 07:41 No_Juggernaut_3378 Caliper bracket hole broke off
Was trying to get rotor off and it is completely seized on even after using fire and oil and two days of sledgehammering it. Eventually got it with a gear puller but it pulled the entire wheel assembly off with the rotor still connected. After banging a couple times one of the holes that are used to hold the caliper bracket in place just fell off without me even hitting it directly and just from vibration ig. Any ideas?? 2001 Ford F150 5.4 V8
submitted by No_Juggernaut_3378 to mechanic [link] [comments]
2024.05.20 03:58 Treefiddyagram How long would this take? Asking bike mechanics
 | Hey guys hope you’re well. I have a 2011 kx250f engine that I stripped down stupidly thinking I was capable of doing it myself. submitted by Treefiddyagram to Dirtbikes [link] [comments] I don’t have the correct tools and buggered it up pretty bad. What’s happened is I was trying to get the fly wheel off and cross threaded the puller on there. Also stripped the bolt that goes through the middle, I’ll attach some pics in this thread. How would you guys go about removing the flywheel? I bought this bike new and it has about 30 hours max. I was pulling it down so I could vapour blast the cases and fully restore it. All the parts in the engine have hardly any wear. I just ordered a new fly wheel also. Once I get the flywheel that’s on it off, and once it’s off take it to a shop to get it fixed. No harsh comments I know I’m a dickhead and fucked up. How many hours would it take a bike mechanic to throw it all back together so I can get a rough idea of how much it will cost me to fix. Thanks people! |
2024.05.15 06:29 broccolirob69420 Outer hub bearing race seized inside knuckle. Fml
 | I have removed the old hub along with the inner bearing race, but the outer race is seized. My bearing puller just won’t grab. Should I dremel notches for my bearing puller to fit in? Should I use a cut off wheel and cut it out? I’m stumped. Any advice appreciated submitted by broccolirob69420 to Cartalk [link] [comments] |
2024.05.10 16:32 FlashyCamel Stay Away from Just Ride On in Amsterdam
Hello everyone,
I want to share a warning about a a certified repair shop in Amsterdam called Just Ride On, where I had a really disappointing experience.
It started with a repair after an accident where my bike's brake disk was bent. Although the main repair went okay (even tho they didn't align my wheel properly, and the brake likely needs bleeding). The bigger issue came with my kickstand adapter. Originally, I had a 3D printed one, but they destroyed it during the repair and put on a different one without asking. They promised to order a new one for me, but it took two months of constant emails and calls to get them to actually do it.
Recently, I went back with an appointment because my bike's crank was making noise. I felt ignored most of the time, as the staff kept taking phone calls instead of helping me. When they finally addressed my problem, they sprayed some WD-40 on the pedal and dismissed the issue saying that it wasn't that bad. I suggested greasing the crank, but the owner said it was unnecessary and would cost 90 euros, claiming it was a difficult repair. When I pointed out it should be a quick fix, he got frustrated, handed me a crank puller, and told me to do it myself.
To top it off, after I posted a review about my bad experience, the owner called me demanding I take it down (a standard practice i see from other reviews as well). When I refused, he said he wouldn't give me the replacement kickstand adapter they had promised.
I'm really let down by Just Ride On. They used to be great when they first opened, but this they became unprofessional and dismissive. If you need bike repairs, I recommend finding another shop to avoid the hassle I went through.
Stay safe and happy biking (just not at Just Ride On)!
submitted by FlashyCamel to cowboybikes [link] [comments]
I want to share a warning about a a certified repair shop in Amsterdam called Just Ride On, where I had a really disappointing experience.
It started with a repair after an accident where my bike's brake disk was bent. Although the main repair went okay (even tho they didn't align my wheel properly, and the brake likely needs bleeding). The bigger issue came with my kickstand adapter. Originally, I had a 3D printed one, but they destroyed it during the repair and put on a different one without asking. They promised to order a new one for me, but it took two months of constant emails and calls to get them to actually do it.
Recently, I went back with an appointment because my bike's crank was making noise. I felt ignored most of the time, as the staff kept taking phone calls instead of helping me. When they finally addressed my problem, they sprayed some WD-40 on the pedal and dismissed the issue saying that it wasn't that bad. I suggested greasing the crank, but the owner said it was unnecessary and would cost 90 euros, claiming it was a difficult repair. When I pointed out it should be a quick fix, he got frustrated, handed me a crank puller, and told me to do it myself.
To top it off, after I posted a review about my bad experience, the owner called me demanding I take it down (a standard practice i see from other reviews as well). When I refused, he said he wouldn't give me the replacement kickstand adapter they had promised.
I'm really let down by Just Ride On. They used to be great when they first opened, but this they became unprofessional and dismissive. If you need bike repairs, I recommend finding another shop to avoid the hassle I went through.
Stay safe and happy biking (just not at Just Ride On)!
2024.05.08 18:32 hallach_halil Undrafted free agents from 2024 who could make an early impact:
 | https://preview.redd.it/v7oo0rbra8zc1.png?width=900&format=png&auto=webp&s=a15cd5a260e787e085c6b54b7232fd2f3de32176 submitted by hallach_halil to NFL_Draft [link] [comments] . The 2024 NFL Draft has come and gone, as we wrap up our extensive coverage of this stage of the league calendar. Before we sort of transition over into the final stages of discussing how teams have built up their rosters, discussing how the new additions fit in across my divisional draft and roster review series starting next week, I wanted to show some love to a few players who didn’t actually hear their names called over the course of the weekend in Detroit. Just last year, I called out Bears quarterback Tyson Bagent, who ended up starting four games, Vikings linebacker Ivan Pace Jr., who was a borderline Pro Bowl performer, and Buccaneers defensive back Christian Izien, who was their quasi-starter in the slot. So there’s always still talent to be found once the draft is wrapped up and while opportunity has to be taken into account here, in the right situation there are UDFAs that could play significant roles as early as this season, even if it’s not in a starting capacity necessarily. Here are some names, who I believe are capable of contributing and are in a situation where they could get a chance to do so: . . https://preview.redd.it/fta26d2wa8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=de2b0c80cc93674081ecb43cb2126f25f9fbfa27 . RB DeShaun Fenwick, Oregon State – New England PatriotsThis was actually one of the first players I wrote about during this pre-draft process, when I outlined him as one of the biggest standouts from the 2024 college all-star events, having watched him consistency showing up in positive ways during East-West Shrine Bowl practices. Funnily enough, I talked a lot about what Fenwick did during one-on-ones as a receiver in that piece, considering he only hauled in 30 passes across 50 career games between South Carolina and Oregon State. You saw him detach from guys down the field on corner and streak routes, but really what stood out was his attention to detail in that regard, altering tempo, throwing in rocker-steps and freezing the feet of guys covering him. Along with that, he has clearly worked on his technique as a pass-protector, erasing the space to blitzer and striking them with a tight punch. As a runner, he plays up to his size at 6’1”, 220 pounds as a battering ram RB2 for the Beavers paired up with what could be a top-ten back in next year’s class in Damien Martinez. However, while the ran a lot inside and outside zone there, I also really like Fenwick’s projection into more of a gap-scheme oriented approach, thanks to how well he can press creases vertically, make subtle adjustments to get to the opposite edge after blockers after forcing guys on the second level to commit and get skinny through tight creases despite his size.So as I consider what this Patriots offense could look like under their new leadership, I think this is a back that could fit very well. Coming over from Cleveland, I expect offensive coordinator Alex Van Pelt to re-commit to a more downhill-oriented approach, considering the pieces they have on the O-line outside of maybe former first-round pick left guard Cole Strange, when they seemingly wanted to dabble more in the wide zone meta we saw across the NFL. While they did bring in Antonio Gibson as more of a receiving option and someone who can provide some big-play potential, I think he’s someone you want to take mental processing off the table as more of a one-cut-and-go zone runner. Yet, Rhamondre Stevenson for as an even slightly bigger back then Fenwick, has some pretty sweet feet to navigate around points of pressure and pace himself as he sets up pulling linemen. As a fifth-year player, I think the former Oregon State RB can operate in a similar mold, even though I don’t like him as much when he gets out to the perimeter and utilizes blockers in space, while lacking that extra gear to pull away from the pursuit. However, he can take some of the load off the starter with his willingness to drop his pads and have a cumulative effect on the defense taking those kinds of blows. Paired with that, for a rookie he can also be useful taking on pass-pro reps and only dropped two of 32 catchable targets in his career with consistent overhand technique. Neither JaMychal Hasty nor Ke’Shawn Vaugh have really established themselves as committee options and Kevin Harris, who the Pats drafted two years ago with a similar profile, has only been active in nine games and touched the ball 37 times. . . https://preview.redd.it/jeplpl10b8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ff0fd2785578734afca5a36a44ba119a9da241e . WR Isaiah Williams, Illinois – Detroit LionsSomeone I didn’t bring up as a player who emerged from the college all-star circuit but had a solid Shrine Bowl week himself, was Isaiah Williams. Formerly recruited as a four-star dual-threat quarterback, he made the transition to catching passes three years ago and while Illinois put the ball in his hands to hit his fellow receivers a few times during stretch, he put up just under 1100 yards and five touchdowns on 94 touches this past season, earning himself first-team All-Big Ten accolades. However, the reason not him but teammate Casey Washington actually got drafted is that Williams that he’s on the smaller end at 5’9”, 180 pounds and ran a 4.63 at the combine. To me, unless you look at the former as a pure special teamer, the NFL clearly took the wrong guy here. Wiliams is highly elusive off the line with subtle shifts or more violent sticks to gain positioning on the release, putting the defender in trail technique off the snap pretty much and then he plays so much faster than hos 40-time would indicate, to where you see him rapidly get on top of guys with that burst in slot fades. He can accelerate through his cuts, packs some effective swipe-moves to create separation against tighter coverage at the break-point and consistently was friendly to his quarterback. His drop rate is a little higher (7.0%) than you’d like to see and his contested-catch rate (35.3%) lower, but he shows no hesitation of extending for the ball in traffic and you love what he provides after the catch. He already has that lower center of gravity to be efficient with his transitions and make more dramatic moves in the open field, but he also shows the balance to pull through wraps, forcing 51 missed tackles across 164 combined catches over the last two seasons.So I look at this Lions depth chart, they just locked up Amon-Ra St. Brown as their “power slot extraordinaire”, they hope former first-round pick Jameson Williams can build on some of the flashes late last season as a field-stretcher and Kalif Raymond is back for a fourth season in Detroit as someone who’s averaged 560 yards per year with them and has been their designated punt returner. However, beyond that, you’re looking at Donovan Peoples-Jones, who they traded a sixth-round pick to Cleveland for, but only averaged just over six offensive snaps outside of a meaningless week 18 game. I kind of liked Antoine Green as a seventh-round pick for them last year, who was this vertical ball-winner for North Carolina, because they didn’t really have that skill-set outside of maybe Marvin Jones Jr. – who’s now off the roster – but the then-rookie only caught one pass for two yards. The only other receiver currently on the roster anybody would even recognize by name is former Saint Tre’Quan Smith, who was bouncing between practice squads and was only active for one game last year. So there’s a pretty good chance Isaiah Williams makes it through final cuts as this team’s WR5 at least. He provides the YAC skills that this team is somewhat lacking and can be an extension of this run game, just like he was for the Fighting Illini, being a fly sweep threats, running backside bubbles or just creating microwave offense on screens. . . https://preview.redd.it/7e3cre62b8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8030e3d0337a5e4e215a499eaf64f50c828bf48 . WR Marcus Rosemy-Jacksaint, Georgia – Washington CommandersSticking with the wide receiver position, we’re looking at quite a different profile to Isaiah Williams with this 6’1”, 205-pound Georgia wideout. Rosemy-Jacksaint was four-star recruit in 2020, who struggled to work his way onto the field for a deep Bulldogs receiving corp, with just 11 catches over his first two years. He became a bigger part of the rotation in 2022 (29-337-two touchdowns), but really established himself as a senior, turning 34 grabs into 535 yards and four TDs. I first became aware of this player during Senior Bowl practices, but I actually didn’t love what I saw there. In a setting that favors shifty separators, who can take advantage of the extended space provided to them during one-on-ones, his routes became somewhat predictable with no deceptive speed and footwork alternations. That’s not saying I didn’t also see him come out of his front-loaded staggered stance without any wasted movement and didn’t like how he was able to violently stick his foot in the ground for sharp transitions as a bigger body-type, along with catching the first touchdown on gameday through contact. Going to the tape, I thought he was very disciplined with his route-stems, snapped off curls well and I really appreciated his play-strength, battling for positioning, defeating leverage of defenders and nudging them off at the top of routes. You combine that with big, natural hands (zero drops on 98 targets over the past two seasons), large catch-radius with those 33-inch arms and competitiveness with the ball in air, hauling in seven of 11 contested targets last year.However, what really made me buy in with Rosemy-Jacksaint and what I think the Commander coaching staff will fall in love with is what he provides as a blocker. Works up to off-corners under good control and is able to latch his hands inside their frame at a high rate. You can deploy him in closer splits, cracking back on safeties, getting a tight grip on the point-man of bunches or even pinning edge defenders inside on plays out to the perimeter. And you see this guy’s hands stay attached until the echo of the whistle a lot of times to take defenders for a ride. Is there anybody this profile reminds you of, thinking about what new GM Adam Peters had in San Francisco? – Jauan Jennings is who came to mind for me. Just like the Niner’s dirty-work receiver and chain-mover, the question with the former Bulldog is the long speed, backed up by running an abysmal 4.81 at Georgia’s pro day. I’m not aware of any off-field concerns, which led to Jennings going undrafted, who I believe offered more after the catch. Washington’s offense will have a much more spread-out look than San Francisco of course with the combination of OC Kliff Kingsbury and second overall pick Jayden Daniels, but to complement a smaller receiving corp that will likely rely on the guy they selected 100th overall in Luke McCaffrey – who I believe is still learning the intricacies of the position – I think as a big slot and role player to help get the run game off the ground, I think Rosemy-Jacksaint has a good chance to make the roster. Assuming they’re looking at different options for the return game, this guy offers more on offense than Dax Milne. . . https://preview.redd.it/t12h1w54b8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c9ffa18b621117a1da429d8086b210247d3aa35 . TE Dallin Holker, Colorado State – New Orleans SaintsOne of the more surprising players from this list who ultimately didn’t get picked as part of a fairly underwhelming tight-end class is Dallin Holker. There were only 12 guys who got selected altogether, but I had him just inside my personal top-ten. That was more of a reflection of the quality of the group overall, as I only saw five TEs inside my top-100 while everybody else had some clear warts. For Holker, he wasn’t asked to line up next to the tackle or would create displacement in the run game, while as a receiver he would tip off defenders by drifting during his route stems, he ran a 4.78 at 241 pounds at the combine and he’s not the most natural at contorting his body for off-target grabs. With that being said, there is plenty of good with the second-team All-American, who just put up career-highs across the board in catches (64), yards (767) and touchdowns (six). I thought his actual game speed was a lot better than what he was timed up, watching him gain a step on guys up the seams or racking up yards after the catch when hauling in passes on the run. Holker can also drop his hips and create space for himself and generally navigates well around ancillary zone defenders to find openings. He tracks the deep ball well over either shoulder, not losing focus with someone on his hip, and generally does a good job taking advantage of his large frame to shield the ball and absorb contact, as well as being flexible enough to pluck passes below his knees. As a blocker, you’re best served to utilize him on the move, whether that’s sifting across the formation, inserting against linebackers or covering up bodies in space when you try to get the ball out towards the sideline.One of the keys to Holker not at least getting a call late on day three is that he didn’t leave the greatest impression during Shrine Bowl week, with a couple of semi-drops with contact and not approaching the ball optimally. However, I didn’t notice that as a general issue for him and as he acclimates to a higher level of competition, I think he has a place on an NFL roster as someone who can earn opportunities by being a reliable target who will fight for extra yardage, and he even lined up some at fullback during team sessions of those aforementioned practices. As I consider how he might fit in with the Saints specifically, I’m looking at a fantasy sleeper from a year ago in Juwan Johnson who didn’t match his prior production in a more prominent role, Foster Moreau as someone who they limited to an underneath option in terms of the pass game and whatever you want to define Taysom Hill as. Whether the latter is on the roster or not, with Klint Kubiak now taking over play-calling duties I’m expecting a fair share of multi-TE sets and could see Holker earn a role as an H-back on early downs and someone with alignment versatility in defined dropback settings. . . https://preview.redd.it/iv2o0t16b8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24e0937f8c003a1e09b5062e6f5fba2b3a6c6189 . IOL Drake Nugent, Michigan – San Francisco 49ersMoving on to the offensive line now, I saw a path where teams would pass on Drake Nugent compared to see more impressive physical profiles on day three, but I was still shocked to see him go undrafted entirely. Depending on what you count some of these tackle/guard flex options as, there were between 25 and 30 interior O-linemen selected overall. For me, Nugent was IOL18, even though I acknowledge that he may be considered a center only at 6’1”, right around 300 pounds with pretty small hands. After barely seeing the field his first two years in college, he started all 39 games between Stanford and Michigan over the past three years, earning first-team All-Big Ten accolades and helping pave the way for a national championship as the replacement for another highly-regarded transfer at the pivot in Olu Oluwatimi. Nugent definitely lacks some size and length, to where you don’t see him just overwhelming nose-tackles at the point of attack or stun interior rushers with his punch. However, he wins as a run-blocker with great technique and naturally built-in leverage, being able to execute down- and back-blocks as part of the Wolverines’ gap schemes where they pulled their guards a lot, but he’s also very capable of getting his hips around to reach-block first-level defenders or secure moving targets climbing off combos. As a pass-protector, he operates with good flexion at his hips, knees and ankles in order to protect a firm interior of the pocket despite only being around 300 pounds. He consistently fits his hands underneath the chest of rushers, showcases impressive reactionary quicks to mirror active movers and is able to guide crossing linebackers or loopers off track at a high rate.Considering what Kyle Shanahan and company value in terms of the offensive line – particularly at the center position – I think Nugent fits those qualifications very well. While the rest of the measurements aren’t as intriguing, he put up borderline elite agility numbers at the combine and you see that short-area quickness on tape as well. Michigan didn’t run a whole lot of outside zone, because the guys around the pivot were much more power-based and they’d mash people inside, creating extra gaps with their guards being used as pullers. However, I think Nugent can absolutely get to the play-side shoulder of shades and 2i-technique, wall off bodies on the second level and then has the lateral movement skills to slide in front of blitzers with how much 5-0 protections San Francisco runs, because they want to get five eligibles out in the pattern. Outside of their starter Jake Brendel, the only guy under contract who has really snapped the ball in the NFL is Jon Feliciano, who they brought in third-round pick Dominick Puni (Kansas) to compete for the starting gig at right guard for most likely. So I’m not sure if the Michigan standout makes the active roster week one, but if Brendel misses any time and Feliciano wins that position battle, he may end up starting at center or at least be your primary backup. And I can see a world where Puni starts a few contests at right tackle as well (after he played on the blindside for the Jayhawks), which would open up further opportunities. . . https://preview.redd.it/ibmsnev7b8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=db7dffece8f6418bb7ea378de6dec90a49c1e168 . IOL Kinglsey Eguakun, Florida – Detroit LionsYou’ll see a couple of other teams make the list with two potential impact UDFAs, but Detroit is the only one with multiple guys on one side of the ball, as I could see both wide receiver Isaiah Williams and Florida’s starting center over the last three years make the cut. What probably hurt him in this process is the fact that he was lost a month into the 2023 season with an ankle injury and he also didn’t work out at the combine due to tight hamstrings. However, we did see him perform at the Senior Bowl and I thought he had a really nice week. What stands out right away as we compare him to Michigan’s Drake Nugent for example is that he may not even be a full ten pounds heavier, but Eguakun presents a much denser build. Thanks to that, combined with throwing out a nice snatch-trap move a couple of times, his ability to anchor against power-rushers and put people on the ground when they get off balance, made him a very effective pass-protector. On 145 pass-blocking snaps last season, he was only charged with one sack and five additional pressures. In the run game, he has some impressive reps on tape executing different assignment on zone concepts, whether he’s latching and sustaining against D-linemen deep into the play-clock, overtaking/folding underneath on combos or shove scraping linebackers past the target. And for what that more squatty build might suggest, he’s pretty effective with getting to further extended landmarks and secure bodies in space.With that being said, I did have a few other names ahead of Eguakun in my IOL rankings and he certainly has his flaws. Whether that’s not always bending at his knees and bringing his feet along as a run-blocker, his hands generally sliding to high in both facets and needing to gear up the level of activity in his hand-usage to battle interior pass-rushers. Combining those issues, he was penalized an insane 31(!) times across 1029 total snaps these last three years combined. Nevertheless, not only do I believe those issues are fixable down the road with the right coaching, but I also look at a pretty clear path to earn the backup center job and provide value as someone who can probably jump in at guard as well. Right now, with Graham Glasgow expected to jump in at left guard for Jonah Jackson, who just left in free agency, the only other O-linemen on this roster currently are Colby Sorsdal, who they selected in the fifth round as a developmental tackle out of William & Mary last year, the guy they surprised us with in the fourth round of this draft out of the University of British Columbia, who is also looked at as a guy who isn’t NFL-ready but has intriguing athletic tools, and former Boston College guard Christian Mahogany, who went a good 100 picks later than I expected late in the sixth round due to some medical concerns. None of those have experience at the pivot and otherwise there’s no other drafted player on this roster. Depending on if Detroit signs another free agent on the tertiary market, I see a good chance for Eguakun to make it through cuts. . . https://preview.redd.it/vfnzljfab8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=150edc1723580dc4fad2686d8134741b45b8ee5e . EDGE Gabriel Murphy, UCLA – Minnesota VikingsNobody hit a bigger homerun on the undrafted free agent market last year than the Vikings. I heard the concerns around linebacker Ivan Pace Jr. coming out of Cincinnati and thought he’d go later than where I valued him, considering he was my 90th overall prospect, but when he landed with defensive coordinator Brian Flores in Minnesota, I immediately thought he’d be an impact starter, and he ended up playing at a fringe Pro Bowl level. This time around, they brought in a player I considered a fourth-round prospect but had some similar concerns based on length. His 30.5-inch arms place him in the sixth-percentile, although the rest of his measurables and athletic testing all basically were in the upper third for the position. Now, that does create some issues when he’s in those close combats against offensive tackles in both facets and you didn’t really see him be asked to stack-and-shed on the edge in the run game, as he was more so allowed to “make plays”. However, there are flashes of him even lining up at three-technique and anchoring against down-block, plus he just has a knack for swiping away the hands of offensive linemen and disrupting the backfield. What you really bring him in for however is that he can probably contribute early on already as a pass-rusher. He effectively sets up cross-chops and beats guys laterally with almost “euro-step”-like footwork. Murphy shows a great feel for the weight-distribution of blockers and has the versatility to move along the front, creating issues on the interior with his quickness. Playing along a loaded D-line at UCLA last season certainly helped, but he racked up 62 QB pressures across 355 pass-rush snaps last season.Looking at Minnesota’s EDGE situation, they basically swapped out long-time veteran Danielle Hunter for a younger version in Jonathan Greenard coming off a career-year at the end of his rookie deal in Houston. Unlike many suspected them having to trade away both their first-round picks for a quarterback in the top-five, they were able to move up to 17th overall to pair quarterback J.J. McCarthy with what many regarded as EDGE1 in Alabama’s Dallas Turner. And they did sign former Dolphin Andrew Van Ginkel to a back-loaded two-year, 20-million-dollar contract, in part due to DC Brian Flores’ familiarity with him. However, while Jihad Ward is currently listed as an outside linebacker, at 290 pounds you’re not really going to ask him to drop into coverage, which they do a lot in a system that either brings six or only three, being very extreme-oriented. Other than that, it’s down to Pat Jones, who just played a career-high in snaps but more out of necessity and he didn’t grade out particularly well, and a developmental guy in Andre Carter who they picked up as a UDFA from Army last year and primarily was used on special teams. As I consider who can give you the most production on passing downs right now, Murphy at the very least comes in fifth in that pecking order. So I think he could be used as a spinner over the center and be valued due to his sudden hands to quickly win those one-on-ones Flores generates. . . https://preview.redd.it/4r69zbzbb8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94ad7fd44f59f1176f3d40932c66b086edb67f26 . IDL Fabien Lovett, Florida State – Kansas City ChiefsWhile they’ve made more investments recently, the Chiefs have a history of finding quality contributors on the defensive line late in the draft and as part of the UDFA market. They signed an edge rusher that I think could give them some snaps as part of the rotation with his urgent, violent style of play in Charlotte’s Eyabi Okie-Anoma. Yet, I want to focus on the big bear they added in the middle from Florida State. Lovett was tied for tenth in my interior D-line rankings and I thought his skill-set was worthy of investing an early day three pick in him. In terms of owning his space and sliding off blocks in run defense, he was up there with anybody outside of Texas’ massive T’Vondre Sweat as a guy playing between the guard. What I always said about him was that he had an innate feel for where pressure was being applied from and how to counter it, as he dealt with double-teams. Yet, his ability to lock out against soloes and then how slippery he is at disengaging and eating up the ball-carrier is equally impressive. Now, he doesn’t offer a whole lot of pop out of his stance and short-area twitchiness to be a legit part of a third-down package in the NFL, but he does have some dominant snaps of putting guards or centers on skates when left one-on-one and his level of activity with his hands is commendable for a guy at 6’4”, nearly 320 pounds.As a sixth-year senior who some people may look like as a two-down player, it’s understandable that the league may value other guys above him, but there’s no way he should’ve gone undrafted entirely. Considering how Kansas City has treated their defensive front, these types of players like Derrick Nnadi, Mike Pennel and others have been valuable contributors. Especially this past season, we saw them run the second-highest rate of base defense and generally they go fairly depth into their depth chart with that position group, to keep guys healthy and give them quality snaps. So while those names I mentioned are still under contract, I think there’s definitely a path to playing time for Lovett since they value those early-phase run stoppers. This guy can occupy bodies to allow their linebackers to run freely, as they just some speed with the departure of Willie Gay Jr., but when they mug someone like Leo Chenal up and create even numbers up front, his ability to work off blockers and create quick stops allows them to get to longer downs and be aggressive in their pressure-packages. Yet, when they run more stop-drop coverages, Lovett can stay on the field and contribute as a pocket-pusher or someone who frees up lanes by pulling multiple bodies with him. I think he makes that roster or at the very least is one of the first call-ups from the practice squad, and he stands out as people watch the All-22 in DecembeJanuary. . . https://preview.redd.it/k7gpvoedb8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c827697ef2cda6117422478f4c08e3c1c441cc0 . LB Easton Gibbs, Wyoming – Seattle SeahawksMoving on to the second level of the defense, there wasn’t as obvious a choice at linebacker as last year, but there still a few guys I could see making rosters, at least if they are significant contributors on special teams. One of those names become keen of was the last in line of some quality Wyoming LBs in Easton Gibbs. I first laid my eyes on him during Shrine Bowl week, especially in terms one-on-one reps vs. the running backs in coverage. He displayed quick feet to redirect with opponents and kept them in front of him, to where even if he did surrender catches, he would’ve been right there to set the tackle for minimal yardage. He was asked to move over the slot quite a bit during team drills, where he showed the ability to read the eyes of the quarterback as a quasi-overhang, yet he’d toggle back to targets in his vicinity and his play of the week came at the goal-line, undercutting a slant route, where he would’ve been off to the races for a pick-six. On tape, his closing burst as a delayed blitzer or taking off as a spy popped a few tomes, as well as the force to plow through running backs in protection. At 6’1”, 230 pounds, Gibbs presents a pretty dense build, with a wide chest, strong arms and a powerful lower half. He excels at creating leverage and stepping past the hips of linemen in order to circle around for the tackle when the ball is going his way, yet his lateral mobility to track (wide) zone concepts from the backside is equally strong.Now, Gibbs can be overly concerned with beating blockers to the spot and loses vision on the ball at times, where he runs himself out of the picture. His transitions as a zone-defender and in open field tackling situations can be a little heavy-legged, leading to a missed-tackle rate of 11.6% across three seasons as a starter. So I thought he projected best as a SAM in a defense that utilizes his edge-setting skills and ability to cover tight-ends. That role doesn’t necessarily exist in Mike Macdonald’s system, but I think if paired with more of a rangy player on the second level, he can be a useful piece. That’s where the pairing with former Dolphin Jerome Baker makes a lot of sense, who can be the one that drops out of mugged-up looks and match up with guys out of the backfield as Gibbs is used as a pressure player. As I look at what else they have on the roster, there’s really only Tyrel Dodson in terms of guys with legit NFL experience, who logged two third of his career starts last season (10). Otherwise, they only have 23 total defensive snaps to show for at off-ball backer. Seattle did draft Tyrice Knight out of UTEP in the fourth round, who is a fun player in terms of the violence he plays with, but it also leads to him running himself out of trouble quite regularly at this point. I think there’s an outside chance Gibbs actually wins that second starting gig at inside linebacker and unless they love what one of those other guys provides on teams, he’s at least LB4 for this group. . . https://preview.redd.it/683kqqxfb8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec38beaa9e545ef8c6878d30921960c814ea5384 . CB Josh Wallace, Michigan – Los Angeles RamsThis was an insanely deep corner class and it would surprise a lot of people probably to hear there was actual one more selected (36 total) than at wide receiver, which was the topic of discussion alongside the quarterback all draft season. However, there were still a couple left who didn’t end up hearing their names called, who I expect to battle for roster spots. Josh Wallace is one of those, as someone who spent the first four years of his collegiate career at UMass before transferring to Michigan for his final season of eligibility, where he didn’t intercept any passes but did start 11 of 15 contests, with four PBUs, one fumble forced and two recovered. He’s more so average-sized at 5’11”, 185 pounds, but he plays above that weight-class, where he can bother receivers at the line. When he’s playing straight-up press-technique, Wallace does well to deny receivers to get to the edges of his frame, when he’s allowed to shade inside, he can ride guys into the sideline and then he can stop his momentum pretty well. As a zone defender, he showcases impressive recognition for route combinations, is forceful with his hands to funnel targets towards the safety to his side and generally his awareness for down-and-distance and game situations is excellent. On the negative side, he lacks great twitch at the break-point to erase that window of separation receivers are able to create on him, flipping with vertical releases a step early raises concerns around Wallace’s long speed – backed up by running in the high 4.6s at his pro day – and he’s not really a play-maker with the ball in the air, only intercepting three of 32 total passes defensed in his career.Having said that, he did have an impressive Shrine Bowl week, stacking over top of routes, forcing guys to widen their stem, without allowing guys to detach on him, at one point coming up with an awesome interception in the end-zone during red-zone one-on-ones, walling off his man, getting his eyes back on the quarterback and diving for the ball. And the big case for him is the physical presence he provides out on the perimeter. This guy steps downhill vs. the run with a purpose and is looking to be the one initiating contact with blockers, then aims low as a tackler and significantly cut down his miss rate this past season against top competition, only missing two of 42 attempts. So while we don’t fully know what the structure of the Rams D will look like under new coordinator Chris Shula, taking over the principles and largely personnel of the previous iteration under Raheem Morris, there’s a pretty clear differentiation between the bigger, more hands-on boundary corners like Tre’Davious White and Derion Kendrick, and the quicker field-side options such as Darious Williams and Cobie Durant. White and Williams coming in as free agents, with Williams having familiarity with L.A. already, are slated to start week one, but I think Wallace could battle Kendrick – who had similar speed concerns, which were even more prevalent on tape – for the backup role on the short side of the field, where he’s asked to disrupt receivers early but doesn’t necessarily stick with them all the way across the field, while having help over the top or inside. . . https://preview.redd.it/9beffxyhb8zc1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d29c9d0e2d668a412976ee4ca6f856f0e25e77e3 . CB Chigozie Anusiem, Colorado State – Washington CommandersThe other top-30 corner for me who didn’t end up getting selected is someone else I saw early on at Shrine Bowl week but didn’t get to study fully until late in the process. For reference, there were eight guys at that position who got drafted – a couple as early as the fourth round – who I had ranked below Anusiem. Unlike Josh Wallace, I really don’t understand why he ended up not getting taken, since he has even better size at 6’1”, 200 pounds and ran a 4.39 at the Colorado State pro day. A former three-star safety recruit for Cal back in 2018, it took this guy a little bit to find his footing and it took until the final two of his six seasons in college for him to become a fixture in the lineup, once he had transferred to the Rams, where he logged a pick and 12 PBUs across 23 total games. Anusiem operates with good balance and his eyes locked in on the belt of his man from soft-press alignment. He shows the football IQ for what routes to anticipate based on splits and formations, slightly adjusting his technique, and then has 32-and-¼-inch arms to impede to progress of the guy across from him as he commits to the release. He has the wheels to run with just about anybody, his closing burst once receivers try to separate on secondary routes is excellent and then his length allows him to bat down targets others would settle for the tackle on. On 228 snaps in man-coverage over the past two years combined, Anusiem allowed just 12 of 36 targets his way (33.3%) to be completed for 157 yards and one touchdown, while actively forcing nine incompletions. In reality, he might be at his best however playing top-down in quarters and closing on stuff in the flats, where he looks comfortable peaking back at the quarterback, mid-pointing routes and passing along or falling off for targets in his vicinity.He can definitely get a little too aggressive with wanting to dictate the route development and gets turned the wrong way, leading to some wasted movement – which you saw during Shrine Bowl week against more skilled route-runners – he’s quick to get into that three-quarter turn in deep zone assignments and lose vision of the wideout at times and when he’s attacking downhill against the run, he’s more so just catching ball-carrier, allowing them to drive through him for additional yardage due to his high center of gravity. However, it’s not like he’s missing tackles (just 5.2% of his attempts last season, compared to 6.3% for his entire career) and he’s generally a strong edge-setter, where he’s sliding inside of receivers to create early stops when the ball bounces his way or he punches off receivers with those long limbs, not shying away from sticking his nose in the fan against bigger bodies out on the perimeter. That’s why I thought someone would bet on his traits, teaching him how to hone in his aggressiveness in man-coverage, since he’s pretty reliable against the run from day one. And looking at what new Commanders head coach values from that position, it aligns with a lot that he brings to the table in terms of dictating terms to receivers with a high rate of man-coverage. That’s why they brought in Michael Davis from the Chargers to pair with Benjamin St. Juste, while drafting Mike Sainristil to start in the nickel for the them, but I’m a lot more concerned about last year’s first-rounder Emmanuel Forbes, who was over-drafted based on speed and having a nose for coming up with interceptions. This new front-office isn’t as invested in him to succeed and I could see Anusiem end up as their primary backup on the outside, since he’s a good 20 pounds heavier and fits more with their mantra. . . https://preview.redd.it/c7luccekb8zc1.jpg?width=742&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b1c28b4f6c61d52afdd76aed16d8b4c9907dd8f . SAF Millard “Nook” Bradford, TCU – New Orleans SaintsFinally, I want to discuss one safety here. This is a class that receive a whole lot of publicity, but taking my top-100 big board and the guys I listed as “the next 30 names”, I had 11 names up there and depending on how you want to define a couple of them who ultimately got picked, there were are 20 selected total.. . The rest of the analysis can be found here!.. One more UDFA to keep track of for each team:.Arizona Cardinals – Xavier Weaver, WR, Colorado Atlanta Falcons – Austin Stogner, TE, Oklahoma Baltimore Ravens – Beau Brade, SAF, Maryland Buffalo Bills – Frank Gore Jr., RB, Southern Miss Carolina Panthers – Jalen Coker, WR, Holy Cross Chicago Bears – Keith Randolph Jr., IDL, Illinois Cincinnati Bengals – Aaron Casey, LB, Indiana Cleveland Browns – Javion Cohen, IOL, Miami Dallas Cowboys – Brevyn Spann-Ford, TE, Minnesota Denver Broncos – Thomas Yassmin, TE, Utah Detroit Lions – Steele Chambers, LB, Ohio State Green Bay Packers – Donovan Jennings, OT/IOL, USF Houston Texans – Jadon OR Jaxon Janke, WR, South Dakota State Indianapolis Colts – Kedon Slovis, QB, USC Jacksonville Jaguars – Josh Proctor, SAF, Ohio State Kansas City Chiefs – Eyabi Okie-Anoma, EDGE, Charlotte Las Vegas Raiders – Lideatrick “Tulu” Griffin, WR, Mississippi State Los Angeles Chargers – Zach Heins, TE, South Dakota State Los Angeles Rams – Kenny Logan Jr., SAF, Kansas Miami Dolphins – Storm Duck, CB, Louisville Minnesota Vikings – Dallas Gant, LB, Toledo New England Patriots – Charles Turner III, IOL, LSU New Orleans Saints – Sincere Haynesworth, IOL, Tulane New York Giants – Alex Johnson, CB, UCLA New York Jets – Leonard Taylor III, IDL, Miami Philadelphia Eagles – Gabe Hall, IDL, Baylor Pittsburgh Steelers – Dajuan Edwards, RB, Georgia San Francisco 49ers – Evan Anderson, IDL, FAU Seattle Seahawks – Garrett Greenfield, OT, South Dakota State Tampa Bay Buccaneers – Kalen DeLoach, LB, FSU Tennessee Titans – Dillon Johnson, RB, Washington Washington Commanders – Tyler Owens, SAF, Texas Tech . . . If you enjoyed this article, please visit the original piece & feel free to check out my video content! . Twitter: @ halilsfbtalk Instagram: @ halilsrealfootballtalk . |
2024.05.06 19:08 linkfx2008 Help removing 93 F-150 steering wheel
The steering wheel is the model that doesn't have the screw in points for the puller. I don't have the claw to pull it. How else can I pull it? I don't care if I break the steering wheel I have to go buy a new steering wheel
submitted by linkfx2008 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
2024.05.04 20:01 nclakelandmusic M1 Carbine Front Sight Impossible To Re-install
So, my grandfather passed away a couple of months ago. Right before this happened, he was attempting to install a bayonet lug on his M1 Carbine. He got the front sight puller tool and got it off, and so I serviced the rifle, and am attempting to get the front sight back on, and it will not budge. I have the action out, the stock has some cracks so i do not want to hammer on it using the stock as a brace. Using a piece of hard wood, several hammers, including a small sledge, and it just will not move more than a few millimeters onto the barrel. The area is clean, lubed with CLP. I'm out of ideas. Anyone else run into this? All the videos I've watched show the sight slipping on there like a hot dog through a hallway.
Edit: I bought an installation tool and mag well vise block, going to give that a try.
Update: To update you, there were two burrs on the barrel. One on the edge of the keyway slot, and another on the barrel itself. There was also a burr on the sight ring, so they were binding up. I just did a quick touch with a 90 degree grinding wheel and smoothed it out and then with the front sight tool it was back on in no time.
submitted by nclakelandmusic to Firearms [link] [comments]
Edit: I bought an installation tool and mag well vise block, going to give that a try.
Update: To update you, there were two burrs on the barrel. One on the edge of the keyway slot, and another on the barrel itself. There was also a burr on the sight ring, so they were binding up. I just did a quick touch with a 90 degree grinding wheel and smoothed it out and then with the front sight tool it was back on in no time.
2024.05.03 16:05 OrganizationMore6720 Wheel bearing & hub assembly
Going to change out my drivers side wheel bearing and hub assembly, I'll have a bearing puller thanks to a friend, I'm just wondering if anyone could tell me the socket sizes for a gen 2 / what tools are required I can't find anything. TYIA
submitted by OrganizationMore6720 to cruze [link] [comments]
2024.05.02 19:19 Candid-Baker2868 2WD + Reverse shift kit install, now with pictures and extra snark!
Pro tip: fly radio control airplanes for 30 years or so prior to doing this install, and everything will be comically simple to understand. If you don’t have 30 years to learn push-rods and bell-cranks, read below for something kinda helpful. Also, some exceptionally irrelevant thoughts are italicized...
Right up front, this is specific fitment notes for the 2wd/Reverse shift kit from Raceway Ural, on my 2017 Gear Up (and maybe most 2014 to 2018 gen 1 EFI models?) I did this with the sidecar installed and while it’s fiddly, at no point did I curse more than usual, ymmv.
Start w/ gearbox in neutral (if you have a working neutral light... tell us what's it like being God's favorite?)
Take a picture of reverse pedal location, indexing, and position in case you ever want to put the old pedal back on when you upgrade to a newer (or older) rig (at which point the old pedal will have vanished and you'll need a replacement anyway)
Take a picture of the levers, mount, bushing, spring, and washer locations on the mount (no, actually, just take pictures of everything)
https://preview.redd.it/asr0d3njj1yc1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e314ec3e70cd95daf02c2f3f8af880c98658533f
Pull shift handles and the pivot rod out of the mount, noting washer and bushing locations. Open the cotter pin slightly to hang onto the loose bits since it's not under spring tension anymore.
Loosen front tank mount cap-head bolts (5mm on my 2017 gear up, all dimensions are for my rig) n prop tank up w/ the official $290 Ural uranium glass wedge (or the superior random $4 hex key set) between tank and frame
https://preview.redd.it/mq1j1rsnj1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08097493b2bdc4ee9f666f333a0ad61833e6c8f5
Protect bottom of you immaculately pristine tank w/ painters tape to prevent scratches (or just lol at the dirt)
The instructions imply for 2014 to 2018 models you have to remove the ignition coils. You can be a wuss and remove them now, or be a true American and fight your way around them for a couple hours and then eventually have to remove them anyway (bonus points if you break something in the process and have to order a new coil). My coils were mounted to the coil mounts (shocker) with a 5 mm hex bolt and 10 mm nut (just thread them back onto the coils for now, and if you wanna disconnect the wire harness’, just know they’re short and might be a bear to reconnect). The left side has the crankcase breather hose in the way, but it's just a hose so will yield with enough cursing. The right side has the fuel line n filter in the way so if you’re not the smoothest over there, be ready to stink for a while.
Pull top engine mount nuts (13 mm) and the top bolt and nut (13mm nut on a 5 mm hex head bolt with the remnants of two disintegrating rubber bushings). Instructions mention reinstalling the ground wire but my ground lead was actually under the alternator adapter bolts so if you find the ground lead loose at this point, I'm just a better person than you.
Pull the now loose upper engine mount and toss it over your shoulder to ensure it's immediately lost. Mine put up a hell of a fight, but then calmly and easily slipped off when I rolled the top towards the front of the bike.
https://preview.redd.it/j62s14g0k1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4988d4598a31ba90a8e07969408731e05f2822a9
Install shifter kit tube where the upper engine mount used to live (this is where you'll learn the coils really do need to move). Install the nuts on top of the engine finger tight, capturing the ground wire if you happen to be cursed in that way (these are lock-nuts so don’t require thread-lock, but this is the part where you would start dabbing some blue Loctite if you’re over 55, or red if you’re under 25). Then install the upper bolt with the tattered dry-rotted remnants of the rubber bushings, and torque everything to gud enuf.
Go ahead and put those coils back now by attaching them to the tangs hanging off the new tube. Mine were only happy with the plug wires facing down. My breather hose clamp needed to rotate a little for clearance so apparently I’m now a master mechanic for coming up with the solution on the fly. If you disconnected the coil plugs, find a small child to reconnect them (there’s no way you’re getting your hands in there).
https://preview.redd.it/q6ovlva9k1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7fc331be8a20e49ee4c21da53d3aa492563f742c
Slide the pivot rod and handles back in, noting the correct order of bushings, spring, and washers (per that picture you forgot to take), and swing it back and forth a bit to check tank clearance. Some have needed a nylon bushing to push the handles out for clearance, but I don't wear nylons so like a real man I just got a running start and blamo, no balls slapping my tank, ymmv (although some product pics out there look like the handle is right against the tank so watch out). You can fold the cotter pin now because there’s no way you’ll remember at the end of this mess, or you can wait until everything is adjusted so you can slide the handles off for clearance. Hmm, nah go ahead and pretend you will remember to fold it later.
Lower the tank and reinstall front mount bolts torquing to gud enuf to compress the rubber mounts and split them wide open.
Shift kit uses 1/2 and 7/16th wrenches for pivots and locking hardware to increase likelihood of grabbing the wrong size wrench beyond the limitations of metric hardware.
Now that the easy part is all done…
Neutral/Rev: Remove 13mm cap nut and use a 2-jaw gear puller (a small 2-3 jaw puller is like $10 at NAPA) to get the reverse pedal off the somehow incredibly rusty spline shaft, and chuck that pedal roughly in the direction you threw the upper engine mount (if you threw the nut with it, go find it because it holds on the rev/neutral lever). DO NOT pry or pull on the pedals or you will loose that fancy neutral light you were just clowning me about until the next time you split the gear box (never or 15K miles? whichever comes first I hear).
https://preview.redd.it/4w02o6ndk1yc1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a480075e23eb7b739589789cce7a41ee82351e8c
Quick note on the push-rod ends/adjusters, mine got about 14 turns from fully screwed-on to falling off, so that gives you about 10 rotations from shortest to longest (with 4-5 threads still engaged). Fully shorten them, then mark them with a sharpie or something so you can count rotations. Start everything with everything screwed all the way in.
I quickly realized no adjusting or placement is possible unless the push-rod ends (they are ball joints under a little rubber skirt) are tightened onto the levers and handles, so go ahead and tighten down the one on the spline shift lever (tighten the 1/2in lock-nut while holding the adjuster pivot with that 7/16th wrench). I put the reinforced (thicker) side of the lever away from the rod for an extra mm of clearance (but don't attach to the transmission yet).
https://preview.redd.it/5phgoh2il1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=661a4e515b2153e89fa9499679fb611f4516bbda
The ball joints allow rotation but they’re tight, so I backed the lock-nuts off about 1/16th turn to allow free movement. Thread the rev/neutral push-rod (spline lever end) from front to back, under the throttle body and fuel lines and everything but the wiring loom, towards the rev/neutral shaft (pics or it didn’t happen). Attach the front end of the push-rod to the inside of the handle (left hand side of the right lever), and then you can see where the rear shifter lever ends up.
https://preview.redd.it/mh24ks86n1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=945c044d00b463974739078913a179d78cf5cca8
Start with rev/neutral handle/knob located just ahead of the throttle cable housing w/steering at full right lock, this keeps it from being trapped or bumped, and keeps it from traveling too far forward when in Rev.
Pushing lever forward pushes the rod back which = heel on the pedal for Rev (reverse, not reverend, there's nothing holy here), and pulling the lever is toeing the pedal back to neutral (normal state).
(The ideal state for pushrods and levers is equal angles on both ends. If the control lever is vertical, the lever at the other end should also be vertical for equal travel. The angle of the push rod actually doesn’t matter (so long as they are the same and not too extreme like over 45 degrees away from 90).
Rotate push-rod (like a turnbuckle) up to 10 turns (you did mark it, right?) to lengthen it so the lever hangs vertically over the spline shaft for equal fwd/aft motion. Realize this isn't' possible and settle for it being tilted a few degrees. It's fine, I guess, I mean who cares or whatever.
Press the lever onto the spline shaft and loosely install the nut.
With everything in place pull the knob back and make sure the throttle cable doesn't hit it. Then actuate knob in both directions (while rolling the rig a bit if needed to find reverse), ensuring smooth operation, free of binding or interference or obfuscation or unnecessary suffering of cables/wires/small animals/people overly sensitive about their gender-affirming lifted pickup and it's leased tires (can you believe people lease tires? like what the heck, sell that thing and get a civic)
Tighten down that lever mount nut while holding the lever to avoid straining the gearbox internals.
Dag a little Loctite and tighten the push rod jam nuts to secure the ends.
Find out it won't start and remember you forgot to put the ground wire back on the engine mount and lift up the tank again.
AND/OR
Now that the easier of the two is installed… 2WD:
After studying the layout, I figured this one is easier to hit from behind (lol). Sidebar: you might want to install this 2wd linkage before doing the Rev/Neutral one since it’s under the Rev/Neutral lever, but you’d be wrong. It’s not your fault, just socioeconomic factors and possibly (likely) Y chromosomes clouding your judgment. Like most things you care about plowing into, you want to have a little practice before hitting this one so everything comes out right in the end.
You can try to use the included rear linkage but I found (at least for my gen 1 EFI rig) that it was too short and pulled the bell crank (the round metal direction-changer mounted where the old lever went) too far (it’s best to have it close to vertical when 2wd is engaged/lever at the rear wheel is forward, this way the bell-crank has clearance and good leverage to actuate both ways). My original rear linkage is longer and just what I needed to clear everything. I found it's best attached to the top of the bell crank for clearance.
So yea, I connected the og ball-end to top of the bell-crank. In my case I needed a washer (used a split washer for added girth) on the bolt to pull it up and clear of the mount (again, pics for attention). NOTE: this is the wrong pic, the lower ball joint will go on the bike side in a bit... dur)
https://preview.redd.it/5be4rum9q1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1fa4f952b7db414aa75ec6d61d35c65339bfdfa
I used the original spring and shoulder bolt, with the washer between the bell crank and the mount. This set the geometry for the forward link which needs to be as far aft as possible so that the bend (technically a jog) in the front push rod can clear the air pipe. If all those words didn’t translate to engrish, just know the jog in the forward rod needs to be as far back and close to the bike as possible to clear the air pipe, the way to do that is keep the bell-crank vertical when 2wd is engaged (handle pulled up and rear wheel lever pulled forward).
Now for the tricky one… what worked for me was screwing in the ball joint adjuster at the rear of the front rod (ugh, what does this even mean?) all the way, threading it under everything alongside the Rev/Neutral rod, and tightening that adjuster on to the BOTTOM/BIKE SIDE of the bell-crank (NOT LIKE THE PIC, do not tighten the jam nut just yet). Now you'll see how the jog tries to get at that air pipe.
Take a deep breath.
Get the sidecar axle positioned so you can engage and disengage the rear end and see where it put’s the 2wd knob. The front adjustment can be set to your preference but keep the handle clear of the tank so spirited travels don't cause any contact. Yes, adjustments require pulling the lock-nut (and sometimes also the bell-crank) but if you hold it against the lever, you can get an idea for where it should go. This is why you started this one from the back, adjusting the front is brutal.
Do not be tempted to fiddle with the back adjustments, you want the bell crank vertical or nearly so when in 2wd for your best chance of avoiding the air pipe. This might not even be a problem beyond the 2014 to 2018 models… but this is what worked for me.
Again, once the pivots are tightened down, cycle the whole mess back and forth and make any final tweaks needed to ensure (what passes for) democracy wins. Check to see if the levers interact much as mine needed some grease to stop draggin' on each other through their bushings (nothing very strong but also nothing I wanted to see happening).
And now with the tweaking dun... pull the bolts that should get some Loctite (like the 2wd bell-crank bolt, the rod jam nuts, and any non-lock-nut nuts) and give em a dab of blue (unless you're selling the rig soon then red is fine).
And that’s it. Putt back and forth out front, take her for a spin in the neighborhood, and don’t forget to notice you missed folding that cotter pin at the next oil change.
Operation video: https://youtu.be/FdTI-aiiZnE?si=x7Vk53qccowQEd-K
Yes, I try too hard but comments on anything else are totally welcome so I can unfuk whatever mistakes I made up there.
Cheers
EDIT: the bell crank pic is the wrong one (but it was the prettier one). The lower ball joint goes on the inside/bike side.
submitted by Candid-Baker2868 to ural [link] [comments]
Right up front, this is specific fitment notes for the 2wd/Reverse shift kit from Raceway Ural, on my 2017 Gear Up (and maybe most 2014 to 2018 gen 1 EFI models?) I did this with the sidecar installed and while it’s fiddly, at no point did I curse more than usual, ymmv.
Start w/ gearbox in neutral (if you have a working neutral light... tell us what's it like being God's favorite?)
Take a picture of reverse pedal location, indexing, and position in case you ever want to put the old pedal back on when you upgrade to a newer (or older) rig (at which point the old pedal will have vanished and you'll need a replacement anyway)
Take a picture of the levers, mount, bushing, spring, and washer locations on the mount (no, actually, just take pictures of everything)
https://preview.redd.it/asr0d3njj1yc1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e314ec3e70cd95daf02c2f3f8af880c98658533f
Pull shift handles and the pivot rod out of the mount, noting washer and bushing locations. Open the cotter pin slightly to hang onto the loose bits since it's not under spring tension anymore.
Loosen front tank mount cap-head bolts (5mm on my 2017 gear up, all dimensions are for my rig) n prop tank up w/ the official $290 Ural uranium glass wedge (or the superior random $4 hex key set) between tank and frame
https://preview.redd.it/mq1j1rsnj1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08097493b2bdc4ee9f666f333a0ad61833e6c8f5
Protect bottom of you immaculately pristine tank w/ painters tape to prevent scratches (or just lol at the dirt)
The instructions imply for 2014 to 2018 models you have to remove the ignition coils. You can be a wuss and remove them now, or be a true American and fight your way around them for a couple hours and then eventually have to remove them anyway (bonus points if you break something in the process and have to order a new coil). My coils were mounted to the coil mounts (shocker) with a 5 mm hex bolt and 10 mm nut (just thread them back onto the coils for now, and if you wanna disconnect the wire harness’, just know they’re short and might be a bear to reconnect). The left side has the crankcase breather hose in the way, but it's just a hose so will yield with enough cursing. The right side has the fuel line n filter in the way so if you’re not the smoothest over there, be ready to stink for a while.
Pull top engine mount nuts (13 mm) and the top bolt and nut (13mm nut on a 5 mm hex head bolt with the remnants of two disintegrating rubber bushings). Instructions mention reinstalling the ground wire but my ground lead was actually under the alternator adapter bolts so if you find the ground lead loose at this point, I'm just a better person than you.
Pull the now loose upper engine mount and toss it over your shoulder to ensure it's immediately lost. Mine put up a hell of a fight, but then calmly and easily slipped off when I rolled the top towards the front of the bike.
https://preview.redd.it/j62s14g0k1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4988d4598a31ba90a8e07969408731e05f2822a9
Install shifter kit tube where the upper engine mount used to live (this is where you'll learn the coils really do need to move). Install the nuts on top of the engine finger tight, capturing the ground wire if you happen to be cursed in that way (these are lock-nuts so don’t require thread-lock, but this is the part where you would start dabbing some blue Loctite if you’re over 55, or red if you’re under 25). Then install the upper bolt with the tattered dry-rotted remnants of the rubber bushings, and torque everything to gud enuf.
Go ahead and put those coils back now by attaching them to the tangs hanging off the new tube. Mine were only happy with the plug wires facing down. My breather hose clamp needed to rotate a little for clearance so apparently I’m now a master mechanic for coming up with the solution on the fly. If you disconnected the coil plugs, find a small child to reconnect them (there’s no way you’re getting your hands in there).
https://preview.redd.it/q6ovlva9k1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7fc331be8a20e49ee4c21da53d3aa492563f742c
Slide the pivot rod and handles back in, noting the correct order of bushings, spring, and washers (per that picture you forgot to take), and swing it back and forth a bit to check tank clearance. Some have needed a nylon bushing to push the handles out for clearance, but I don't wear nylons so like a real man I just got a running start and blamo, no balls slapping my tank, ymmv (although some product pics out there look like the handle is right against the tank so watch out). You can fold the cotter pin now because there’s no way you’ll remember at the end of this mess, or you can wait until everything is adjusted so you can slide the handles off for clearance. Hmm, nah go ahead and pretend you will remember to fold it later.
Lower the tank and reinstall front mount bolts torquing to gud enuf to compress the rubber mounts and split them wide open.
Shift kit uses 1/2 and 7/16th wrenches for pivots and locking hardware to increase likelihood of grabbing the wrong size wrench beyond the limitations of metric hardware.
Now that the easy part is all done…
Neutral/Rev: Remove 13mm cap nut and use a 2-jaw gear puller (a small 2-3 jaw puller is like $10 at NAPA) to get the reverse pedal off the somehow incredibly rusty spline shaft, and chuck that pedal roughly in the direction you threw the upper engine mount (if you threw the nut with it, go find it because it holds on the rev/neutral lever). DO NOT pry or pull on the pedals or you will loose that fancy neutral light you were just clowning me about until the next time you split the gear box (never or 15K miles? whichever comes first I hear).
https://preview.redd.it/4w02o6ndk1yc1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a480075e23eb7b739589789cce7a41ee82351e8c
Quick note on the push-rod ends/adjusters, mine got about 14 turns from fully screwed-on to falling off, so that gives you about 10 rotations from shortest to longest (with 4-5 threads still engaged). Fully shorten them, then mark them with a sharpie or something so you can count rotations. Start everything with everything screwed all the way in.
I quickly realized no adjusting or placement is possible unless the push-rod ends (they are ball joints under a little rubber skirt) are tightened onto the levers and handles, so go ahead and tighten down the one on the spline shift lever (tighten the 1/2in lock-nut while holding the adjuster pivot with that 7/16th wrench). I put the reinforced (thicker) side of the lever away from the rod for an extra mm of clearance (but don't attach to the transmission yet).
https://preview.redd.it/5phgoh2il1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=661a4e515b2153e89fa9499679fb611f4516bbda
The ball joints allow rotation but they’re tight, so I backed the lock-nuts off about 1/16th turn to allow free movement. Thread the rev/neutral push-rod (spline lever end) from front to back, under the throttle body and fuel lines and everything but the wiring loom, towards the rev/neutral shaft (pics or it didn’t happen). Attach the front end of the push-rod to the inside of the handle (left hand side of the right lever), and then you can see where the rear shifter lever ends up.
https://preview.redd.it/mh24ks86n1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=945c044d00b463974739078913a179d78cf5cca8
Start with rev/neutral handle/knob located just ahead of the throttle cable housing w/steering at full right lock, this keeps it from being trapped or bumped, and keeps it from traveling too far forward when in Rev.
Pushing lever forward pushes the rod back which = heel on the pedal for Rev (reverse, not reverend, there's nothing holy here), and pulling the lever is toeing the pedal back to neutral (normal state).
(The ideal state for pushrods and levers is equal angles on both ends. If the control lever is vertical, the lever at the other end should also be vertical for equal travel. The angle of the push rod actually doesn’t matter (so long as they are the same and not too extreme like over 45 degrees away from 90).
Rotate push-rod (like a turnbuckle) up to 10 turns (you did mark it, right?) to lengthen it so the lever hangs vertically over the spline shaft for equal fwd/aft motion. Realize this isn't' possible and settle for it being tilted a few degrees. It's fine, I guess, I mean who cares or whatever.
Press the lever onto the spline shaft and loosely install the nut.
With everything in place pull the knob back and make sure the throttle cable doesn't hit it. Then actuate knob in both directions (while rolling the rig a bit if needed to find reverse), ensuring smooth operation, free of binding or interference or obfuscation or unnecessary suffering of cables/wires/small animals/people overly sensitive about their gender-affirming lifted pickup and it's leased tires (can you believe people lease tires? like what the heck, sell that thing and get a civic)
Tighten down that lever mount nut while holding the lever to avoid straining the gearbox internals.
Dag a little Loctite and tighten the push rod jam nuts to secure the ends.
Find out it won't start and remember you forgot to put the ground wire back on the engine mount and lift up the tank again.
AND/OR
Now that the easier of the two is installed… 2WD:
After studying the layout, I figured this one is easier to hit from behind (lol). Sidebar: you might want to install this 2wd linkage before doing the Rev/Neutral one since it’s under the Rev/Neutral lever, but you’d be wrong. It’s not your fault, just socioeconomic factors and possibly (likely) Y chromosomes clouding your judgment. Like most things you care about plowing into, you want to have a little practice before hitting this one so everything comes out right in the end.
You can try to use the included rear linkage but I found (at least for my gen 1 EFI rig) that it was too short and pulled the bell crank (the round metal direction-changer mounted where the old lever went) too far (it’s best to have it close to vertical when 2wd is engaged/lever at the rear wheel is forward, this way the bell-crank has clearance and good leverage to actuate both ways). My original rear linkage is longer and just what I needed to clear everything. I found it's best attached to the top of the bell crank for clearance.
So yea, I connected the og ball-end to top of the bell-crank. In my case I needed a washer (used a split washer for added girth) on the bolt to pull it up and clear of the mount (again, pics for attention). NOTE: this is the wrong pic, the lower ball joint will go on the bike side in a bit... dur)
https://preview.redd.it/5be4rum9q1yc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1fa4f952b7db414aa75ec6d61d35c65339bfdfa
I used the original spring and shoulder bolt, with the washer between the bell crank and the mount. This set the geometry for the forward link which needs to be as far aft as possible so that the bend (technically a jog) in the front push rod can clear the air pipe. If all those words didn’t translate to engrish, just know the jog in the forward rod needs to be as far back and close to the bike as possible to clear the air pipe, the way to do that is keep the bell-crank vertical when 2wd is engaged (handle pulled up and rear wheel lever pulled forward).
Now for the tricky one… what worked for me was screwing in the ball joint adjuster at the rear of the front rod (ugh, what does this even mean?) all the way, threading it under everything alongside the Rev/Neutral rod, and tightening that adjuster on to the BOTTOM/BIKE SIDE of the bell-crank (NOT LIKE THE PIC, do not tighten the jam nut just yet). Now you'll see how the jog tries to get at that air pipe.
Take a deep breath.
Get the sidecar axle positioned so you can engage and disengage the rear end and see where it put’s the 2wd knob. The front adjustment can be set to your preference but keep the handle clear of the tank so spirited travels don't cause any contact. Yes, adjustments require pulling the lock-nut (and sometimes also the bell-crank) but if you hold it against the lever, you can get an idea for where it should go. This is why you started this one from the back, adjusting the front is brutal.
Do not be tempted to fiddle with the back adjustments, you want the bell crank vertical or nearly so when in 2wd for your best chance of avoiding the air pipe. This might not even be a problem beyond the 2014 to 2018 models… but this is what worked for me.
Again, once the pivots are tightened down, cycle the whole mess back and forth and make any final tweaks needed to ensure (what passes for) democracy wins. Check to see if the levers interact much as mine needed some grease to stop draggin' on each other through their bushings (nothing very strong but also nothing I wanted to see happening).
And now with the tweaking dun... pull the bolts that should get some Loctite (like the 2wd bell-crank bolt, the rod jam nuts, and any non-lock-nut nuts) and give em a dab of blue (unless you're selling the rig soon then red is fine).
And that’s it. Putt back and forth out front, take her for a spin in the neighborhood, and don’t forget to notice you missed folding that cotter pin at the next oil change.
Operation video: https://youtu.be/FdTI-aiiZnE?si=x7Vk53qccowQEd-K
Yes, I try too hard but comments on anything else are totally welcome so I can unfuk whatever mistakes I made up there.
Cheers
EDIT: the bell crank pic is the wrong one (but it was the prettier one). The lower ball joint goes on the inside/bike side.
2024.05.01 11:42 Stage-Piercing727 Best 10 22 Bolt Release
 | submitted by Stage-Piercing727 to u/Stage-Piercing727 [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/inh6xqhicsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94a5ec4aadbeda71ee73d77d336bea2774341fc5 Get ready for an exciting ride as we dive into the world of the latest 10 22 bolt release! In this article, we'll bring you up to speed with the latest innovations and top-notch products that have been making waves in the industry. Brace yourself for a comprehensive overview of the 10 22 bolt release that will keep you engaged and informed from start to finish. The Top 19 Best 10 22 Bolt Release
Reviewsđź”—Comfortable Archery Trigger Release for Small to Medium Wrist Sizeshttps://preview.redd.it/sd3qnlhjcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a09fabfdde5313de2361eceacbea7609dd9584a3 I've been using the Allen Release Caliper for quite some time now, and it has definitely made a difference in my archery game. The traditional straight shaft release design combined with the adjustable Cloth Tie strap assembly really came in handy. One of the best features for me was the head's ability to rotate 360 degrees - it made those tricky shots a breeze. The "T" style pivot also significantly reduced wrist torque, making the whole experience more comfortable. This caliper release can accommodate small to medium wrists and works great for left or right-handed archers. Just be cautious when setting it up, as I've had issues with the clip unscrewing from the wrist band, which resulted in a lost arrow. Overall, it's a great value for the price, especially if you're new to archery or simply looking for a reliable and comfortable release. đź”—Professional Bolt Nut Remover Extractor Sethttps://preview.redd.it/eahzjpsjcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=996d91518448dbca7bed6b6e4d624d1b74d2dd2a I was recently tasked with removing a stripped 10mm bolt from a piece of equipment. Using a standard socket wrench, I struggled for hours with no progress. However, I had a friend suggest trying out the Amartisan Impact Bolt Extractor Tool. Upon arrival, the set consisted of 13 pieces, all made of high-quality 40CrChromoVanadium Steel, making them considerably stronger than traditional tool steel. The Black Oxide surface provided an added layer of strength, durability, and protection against corrosion. What stood out for me was the reversed spiral flutes designed to 'bite down' for ultimate gripping power. The ease at which I was able to remove the previously stubborn bolt was remarkable. It even managed to break through some paint and rust that had formed around the bolt head. The set also included a 3/8-inch square drive suitable for use with various wrenches and ratchets. Furthermore, the vise-grip locking pliers were a pleasant addition, providing convenience when navigating through tight spaces. One thing that might have been improved is if there were some instructions or a video tutorial explaining how to use the tools correctly. Otherwise, this Amartisan Impact Bolt Extractor Tool is a must-have for any mechanic or DIY enthusiast. In summary, this tool has saved me a significant amount of time and frustration, and it's now a staple in my toolbox. đź”—10mm Quick Release Cromoly Skewer for Mountain Bicycleshttps://preview.redd.it/atq07o7kcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a829dcc287c37ca62581b0bd8af27649debc37de As a cyclist who constantly needs to swap out wheels, I've been using the Q2 Quick Release Cromoly Skewer for quite some time now. This cromoly skewer with an alloy lever is the perfect rear 10mm x 130mm solution for anyone looking for a reliable and easy-to-use replacement skewer for their mountain bike. The knurled fork contacts are a game-changer, providing a secure and hassle-free connection between the wheel and the fork. It's a simple yet effective design that gets the job done every time. The skewer itself is made from cromoly, which is known for its durability and strength, making it a great choice for regular use. The alloy lever adds an extra layer of convenience when it comes to quick release and tightening the skewer. It's sturdy, lightweight, and designed with cyclists in mind, ensuring a smooth and efficient wheel transition. đź”—High Performance Pressure Plate Bolt Kit for Racing Applicationshttps://preview.redd.it/s7oxghikcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=804aa0e34a575b09e700e12144709e2e3059e262 I've been using ARP's 134-2202 Pressure Plate Bolt Kit in my daily life, and I must say it's been a game-changer in my car's performance and safety. The bolt kit is specifically designed for racing and high-performance street applications, and it does wonders in maintaining great grip length. I particularly love how each component is made and hardened to ensure reliability and durability. What really stands out to me is the high-quality materials used in these bolts. The High Performance Series bolts are made of premium chrome moly and hardened to 180,000 psi, while the Pro Series bolts, developed for NASCAR Winston Cup competition, are rated at an impressive 200,000 psi. The large diameter low-profile design completes the package, ensuring a snug fit. However, I did face a minor issue with the wrong parts being provided at first. But, once I contacted the manufacturer and received the correct parts, everything worked like a charm. It was certainly an unforgettable experience, and I can now confidently say that my car is performing like never before. So, whether you want to hit the track or simply enjoy your high-performance street ride, the ARP 134-2202 Pressure Plate Bolt Kit would be a fantastic choice to enhance your automotive experience. Just make sure to double-check with the manufacturer before installing to avoid any complications. đź”—Tuff Guy Release Boa Strap: Single-Jaw Wrist Strap for Huntinghttps://preview.redd.it/rpo1baxkcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95d33f16e30c4f18c9d2a753ba1286fb020fc217 As a passionate hunter, I've always been on the lookout for tools that make my shooting experience more efficient and accurate. That's why when I came across the Tuff Guy Release Boa Strap by Spot Hogg, I knew it was a must-try. The single closed jaw wrist strap release caught my attention right away, offering a unique way to secure my rifle to my wrist without causing discomfort. The adjustable trigger tension was another standout feature, allowing me to customize the release just the way I liked it. One thing I particularly appreciated was the fold-back stem design. It allowed me to move around freely while still keeping my rifle secure, without any unnecessary hassle. The lack of creep or travel was a game changer, ensuring a smooth and reliable release every time. However, one feature I found challenging was the forward trigger design. While it offered convenience, it took a bit of getting used to. Despite this minor inconvenience, the Tuff Guy Release Boa Strap proved to be a reliable and efficient tool for any hunter. Overall, the Tuff Guy Release Boa Strap by Spot Hogg exceeded my expectations and proved to be a worthy addition to my hunting gear. The quality, comfort, and ease of use made it a no-brainer for any shooter looking to up their game. đź”—Universal Quick Release with Shiny Black Ringhttps://preview.redd.it/l6i5yz9lcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52eae0d41677bb46cdb4e2bd6fa9f5a52dbdf87d After trying out the NRG SRK-220BK Quick Release Gen 2.2, I must say it's a game-changer for anyone looking to make vehicle installation more efficient. The black body and shiny black oval ring on this device really make it stand out. And the studded oval body ring is an excellent addition that makes the release process even smoother. However, one thing I found a bit challenging was that I needed to get used to the slightly different design to avoid any mishaps during its use. Despite that minor hiccup, this quick release has truly sped up my installation process, making it a must-have for any toolkit. đź”—High-Performance Pressure Plate Bolt Kit in Black Oxide Finishhttps://preview.redd.it/djx6ttolcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3c3b93a17a58464c3fde6a6af72c4fbe78ead13 I recently gave ARP's 134-2202 Pressure Plate Bolt Kit a try in my racing project, and I have to admit, I wasn't disappointed. The large, low-profile design meant that installation was a breeze and the premium chrome-moly bolts provided an impressive hold on my pressure plate. The Pro Series, with its tensile strength of 200,000 psi, made me feel confident in the safety and performance of my vehicle. The only downside I encountered was the incorrect thread size, leading to a misapplication. It's important to double-check the thread size when ordering to avoid any potential issues. Overall, though, I'm incredibly satisfied with my ARP Pressure Plate Bolt Kit and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for high-quality, reliable components for their racing vehicle. đź”—Easy-to-Use Carrier Bearing Puller for Differential Applicationshttps://preview.redd.it/31srrl0mcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dfabaf0009481205d9915d7933993d55158ae999 I recently needed to remove the carrier bearings on my vehicle for differential repair work, and I was thankful for this Yukon Gear YT P22 Carrier Bearing Puller. This tool made the process quick and easy, working flawlessly with my impact gun. The design was specifically tailored for this type of work, ensuring a secure and safe removal of the bearings without causing any damage. Although it's specifically designed for certain applications, it has been a lifesaver in my daily life as an auto enthusiast. đź”—Custom Diamond Studded Quick Release Kit for Guns with Glow-in-the-Dark Pyramid Ringhttps://preview.redd.it/m6jgtnemcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b5df8cdb041d68349b5a955041af5eaa15d6edb5 Recently, I had a chance to try out the NRG SRK-210GM/GL Quick Release Kit with its Gunmetal Body and Glow in the Dark Pyramid Ring. As someone who frequently requires quick access to my gear, this product immediately caught my attention. What stood out to me first was the raised sections, which prevented the scratching and stretching of my hub. This feature added an extra layer of durability that I didn't have with my previous quick-release solution. The self-locking feature was another plus, as it increased safety and functionality. It's always reassuring to know that my gear will stay in place when I need it most. And of course, the addition of the glow-in-the-dark pyramid ring was a thoughtful touch, helping me locate and access my gear even in low-light conditions. One minor drawback was the size limitations, as it only supported 6x70 and 6x74mm bolt patterns. However, this didn't pose too much of an issue for me, as it still worked well with my setup. All in all, the NRG SRK-210GM/GL Quick Release Kit has proven to be a great addition to my gear collection, offering a convenient and sturdy solution for my quick-release needs. đź”—Tuff Guy Release Boa Strap for 10/22 Bolt Handlehttps://preview.redd.it/t2mprysmcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c34e3cc62e695cb3bc828b816e312373d3fe6ff3 As a seasoned hunter, I was ecstatic to try the Tuff Guy 10/22 bolt release. The single closed jaw wrist strap release was incredibly easy to use and offered a comfortable fit. The adjustable trigger tension was a game-changer for me, allowing me to customize it according to my preferences. The forward trigger design was a thoughtful feature that made loading my rifle smoother than ever. However, one area that could use improvement is the durability of the strap. After multiple uses, it began to fray, which left me worrying about the long-term viability of the product. Despite this setback, the Tuff Guy Release Boa Strap remains an excellent tool for any hunter looking for a reliable and easy-to-use 10/22 bolt release. đź”—Too Simple 4 Finger Bolt Release with Double Sear Trigger Systemhttps://preview.redd.it/bailw1ancsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a14c03ca8fd0718cb88fc37e45db04e48337c3c8 After spending some time with the Carter Release Too Simple 4 Finger, I must say it has turned heads in my archery community. The unique double sear trigger system is a game-changer, providing the smoothest trigger travel adjustment I've ever experienced. The set screw tension adjustment also impressed me, enabling a super micro adjustable trigger tension with just a simple turn. Despite its sleek features, I did encounter a slight snag with the self-closing jaw. It appeared to cause some trouble when loading onto a D-loop. However, with a quick push of the button, I found the loading process became much easier. The handle is comfortable to grip, and the auto locking jaw, combined with the ultra-short head, has significantly improved my speed. While the Carter Release Too Simple 4 Finger may not be perfect, it has become my go-to release for its smooth operation and adjustability. This release has transformed my bow-shooting experiences, and I can confidently say it's worth the investment. đź”—360-Degree Rotating Shaft Archery Release with Adjustable Triggershttps://preview.redd.it/tbhw85oncsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ac2c850d0273e888029e287c5079d4663001bfd I recently tried out the Trophy Ridge Drawpoint Release, and I must say, it has been a game-changer for my archery experience. The 360-degree rotating shaft that locks in any position has been incredibly helpful in keeping my shots consistent and accurate. The rotating head also ensured that my string never got caught or tangled, making my shooting process much smoother. One major highlight of this release is its adjustability, with the ability to change the length of the release and trigger travel. These features allowed me to find the perfect fit for my archery style and improve my accuracy immensely. The high-quality leather wrist strap was also a great addition, as it provided a comfortable and secure fit while shooting. However, there were a couple of downsides to this release. The stitching on the leather strap did not hold up well after a few usages, as it ripped near the buckle. Additionally, the lack of a fully closed set of jaws on the release initially made me a bit skeptical, but it quickly became a non-issue as I grew more confident in its accuracy and performance. Overall, the Trophy Ridge Drawpoint Release has been an impressive addition to my archery gear, offering a smooth and customizable shooting experience. With a few minor adjustments, it could become an even better product for avid archers. đź”—Heavy Metal Hinge Release Back Tensionhttps://preview.redd.it/vut8163ocsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d96d62ccd8efd35f496bbdb7beee4245bd921ca6 The Stan OnneX Heavy Metal Hinge Release has been a game changer for me when it comes to my archery practice. The open hook design allows for consistent and accurate lateral nock travel, which is crucial for my form. I also appreciate the crisp breaking activation, with independent trigger travel and trigger tension adjustments for customization. One minor drawback is the absence of the click hook in the package. However, the ability to practice trigger activation without actually firing due to the STAN Trainer Lock feature makes up for it. The availability of multiple sizes and barrel posts ensures a comfortable fit for any archer's hands. đź”—Premium Strip Lug Bolt Removal Set with Multi-Size Drivers and Easy Storagehttps://preview.redd.it/72m0x7eocsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61c2b5a13ea9644e61ccd496fc955039b72ff3f4 When I was given the THINKWORK Impact Bolt Extractor Set, I was excited to put it to the test in my daily maintenance work. With 13 pieces, this set proved to be versatile and handy in dealing with a variety of stripped or rusty bolts and nuts. One notable feature of the set was the internal thread with a reverse spiral flute design that allowed for a secure grip and maximum gripping power. As I continued to turn and apply pressure, I found that the socket grips became increasingly tight, making the extraction process smoother. Additionally, the compatibility with both common and heavy-duty power tools, along with screwdrivers, made this set even more appealing. The 3/8-inch drive and hex adapter allowed for seamless integration with my existing tool collection. While the set offered a variety of sizes (3/4", 11/16", 17mm, 5/8"(16mm), 9/16"(14mm), 13mm, 1/2", 12mm, 7/16"(11mm), 10mm, 3/8", 5/16"(8mm), 1/4", and hex adapter) for diverse tasks, there were a couple of instances where the socket grips occasionally slipped when dealing with particularly stubborn bolts. Overall, the THINKWORK Impact Bolt Extractor Set was a valuable addition to my tool collection, and its heavy-duty blow-molded case ensured that each piece could be conveniently organized and taken on the go for various projects. Buyer's GuideWelcome to the buyer's guide for 10 22 bolt release systems. This section will cover important considerations and features to help you make an informed decision when purchasing a 10 22 bolt release tool. We will provide general advice to ensure a smooth and successful operation of your AR-15 bolt release system.Compatibilityhttps://preview.redd.it/pssa0erqcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2bd4e6d5fcef2f6b89416c391adf55646b4ad9c Ensure that the 10 22 bolt release tool you choose is compatible with your firearm model. Measure the size and shape of the bolt catch on your rifle to confirm compatibility. Most 10 22 bolt release tools are designed to work with similar bolt catches, but double-checking the specifications will make your purchase easier and more successful. MaterialChoose a reliable and durable material for your 10 22 bolt release tool. Stainless steel is a popular choice for its durability and resistance to rust and corrosion. Some bolt release tools may also be made from aluminum or other lightweight materials, which can be beneficial for portability and ease of use.DesignConsider the design of the 10 22 bolt release tool, such as its handle shape, size, and orientation. A comfortable and ergonomic handle makes it easier to operate the tool effectively. A larger handle may also provide better grip, especially in wet or slippery conditions. Many 10 22 bolt release tools come in various designs to cater to different preferences and hand sizes. https://preview.redd.it/utlrec7rcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0dbd3157ad65b7ba90581e5d2544db53c2b7879 AdjustabilitySome 10 22 bolt release tools offer adjustability to accommodate different bolt catches or various firearm models. Look for tools with adjustable features like locking pins, levers, or tension knobs, which can help customize the fit and ensure the bolt release tool functions properly with your firearm.DurabilityA durable 10 22 bolt release tool is essential for long-term reliability and wear resistance. Check the construction quality, including the materials, welding, and finish, to ensure a robust and resilient tool that will withstand the demands of your firearm and operating conditions.Pricehttps://preview.redd.it/dv4qq0qrcsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b94c834a56f138f399c760cd748d5572a6db279c Price should not be the only factor in your decision-making process; however, it is essential to consider your budget. There are various 10 22 bolt release tools available at different price points. Research the features, materials, and durability of each tool to find a balance between quality and affordability. Reviews and RatingsBefore making a purchase, consult customer reviews and ratings to gauge the performance and satisfaction of other users. Look for well-known and reputable online retailers that offer product reviews and feedback from verified buyers. These reviews can provide valuable insights into the usability, functionality, and overall experience with a 10 22 bolt release tool.Maintenance and CareProper maintenance and care are crucial for the longevity and functionality of your 10 22 bolt release tool. Clean and lubricate the tool regularly, ensuring its components are free from dust, debris, and corrosion. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for optimal maintenance and care, which may include disassembling and reassembling the tool as needed.Choosing the right 10 22 bolt release system is essential for smooth and efficient operation of your AR-15. Consider compatibility, material, design, adjustability, durability, price, and customer reviews when making your decision. Investing in a high-quality bolt release tool will ensure reliable and long-lasting performance for your firearm. https://preview.redd.it/uy97iv6scsxc1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e10a643bb6860d0d485c6bf97a326086edbace9 FAQWhat is a 10/22 Bolt Release?A 10/22 bolt release is a tool or device designed to assist in removing the bolt from a Ruger 10/22 rifle, making it easier for the user to disassemble and reassemble the firearm.Why do I need a 10/22 Bolt Release?Using a 10/22 bolt release can save time and effort when disassembling and reassembling your Ruger 10/22 rifle. It can also prevent damage to the bolt or the rifle's internals by reducing the force required to remove or insert the bolt.What are the different types of 10/22 Bolt Releases?There are various types of 10/22 bolt releases available in the market, including:
How do I install a 10/22 Bolt Release?Installing a 10/22 bolt release typically involves the following steps:
Are 10/22 Bolt Releases compatible with all 10/22 rifles?Not all 10/22 bolt releases are compatible with all Ruger 10/22 models. Some bolt releases are designed specifically for certain versions of the firearm, so it’s essential to ensure compatibility before purchasing.As an Amazon™ Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. |
2024.04.28 21:01 Much-Banana-949 Wahoo Core - Bearing Replacement Guide - Part 2
 | This is part 2 of the guide to replacing flywheel bearings on Wahoo Kickr Core. submitted by Much-Banana-949 to wahoofitness [link] [comments] To read part 1 go to this post: Guide - Part One To read part 3 go to this post: Guide - Part Three Continuing from part 1: 4) Remove the tensioner (plate attached to the bearings) and remove the belt. Now it's a good time to clean the belt with a belt tensioner spray. This will help to remove any traces of oil from the belt that can cause slippage and/or squeaking noise, and also will alow to extend the life of the belt. I use Manol Belt Tensioner 9897 spray. The belt should be now removed. Inspect the belt for any damage and clean it. 5) Remove the plastic back cover. The cover is attached with two short Allen screws to the trainer. Two Screws attaching the back cover to the trainer. 6) Allign the Allen screw on the pulley wheel with the cutout in the frame. Loosen the allen screw. Getting ready to remove the pulley wheel. 7) Remove the screw that attaches the pulley wheel to the flywheel axle. You need 14mm socket key. If you need to prevent the flywheel from rotating while doing it, you can use the belt to hold the flywheel in place. Please note: If this bolt unscrewed very easily, with little resistance or if it was loose, it is possible that this was the cause of noise (typically clicking noise) and not the bearings. In this case, I would advise to tighten it well (14-15 Nm) with some low or medium strength threadlocker (please remember to degresae the bolt and the axle's threads first), fully assemble the trainer and check for the noise while riding. Now you should be able to remove the pulley wheel. If it is stuck, you can use a standard crank puller. On Kickr Core, the pulley has thread inside that allows to insert/attach the crank puller. I should note that the pulley is made out of rather quite soft aluminium, and thus it should be handled as gently as possible in order to avoid any damage. Removing the pulley screw. Note that the small Allen screw is already loosened. You can hold the flywheel in place by using the belt, when removing the pulley screw. Aluminium pulley wheel and its screw. 8) Remove the metal key holding the flywheel axle and they pulley in place. Depending on how much the key is stuck here, you may need to use a mallet or even a screwdriver + mallet combination to get it unstuck. Please note: If the key was loose, or easy to move, it is possible that this was the reason behind a clicking noise or other strange noise coming from the trainer. Either purchase a new key, or use medium strength threadlocker to bind it with the axle groove (please remember to degresae the key and the axle's goorve firsl), fully assemble the trainer and check for the noise while riding. The key's purpose is to transfer torque from the pulley wheel to the axle/freewheel, and it cannot be loose. Not sufficiently tight key can be a cause of all sort of noises. Remove the metal key The tip of the axle withou the key. Metal key. 9) Remove the flywheel. If it does not move, use your rubber mallet by sensibly hitting the end of the axle. Make sure not to damage the white and black sticker on the inside of the flywheel. This sticker allows the machine to read how fast the flywheel spins. The flywheel removed from the frame. make sure not to damage the white&black sticker. The first bearing is now exposed. The inside of the Wahoo trainer, that is normally enclosed by the flywheel. The second bearing is now exposed. 10) Chances are that the bearings are either stuck inside of the cast iron frame, or one of the bearings is still stuck on the axle of the flywheel. To remove the bearings from the frame/axle you will need to use the appropriate bearing extractor. In this case I needed to use the bearing extractor that allows to remove the bearings from the frame. The removal needs to be done very carefully on the inside of the machine (the side where the flywheel normally sits), to make sure that the electronics are not damaged. Please also note that there is an aluminium rod/pipe sitting between the two bearings inside of the iron frame. Removing the frst bearing from the frame. Removing the second bearing from the frame. Be careful here not to damge the PCB. Old bearings and the aluminium rod that sat between the bearings. 11) Clean all the metal elements. Chances are that there will be a fair amount of rust on the axle and some oxidation on the aluminium elements. Try to clean these as much as possible. When clean, grease the axle, the frame where the bearings sits and also the inside of the aluminium rod/pipe. The grease will not only protect the elements from rusting too much, but also will allow for easier disassembly in case you need to replace the bearings again in the future. 12) Time to place new bearings iside of the frame. To make this easier, the new bearings should be freezing cold (it is best to store them overnight in a freezer before this repair). The bearings need to be pushed into the frame on both sides. Chances are that you do not have the dedicated tool to do this, so a simple but very effective alternative is to use a threaded bolt (at least 10 or 12 cm) with nuts and some washers of the same size as the diameter of the bearings. I use washers with the inside diameter of 12mm and the outside diameter of 37mm, which allow me to push the bearings into the frame without any risk of damaging them. Place the aluminium rod inside of the frame and the two bearings on each side of the frame. Put the threaded bolt throught the rod and the bearings with two washers on the outside of the bearings. Use a nut and a wrench to carefully tighten the bearings into the frame. make sure that the bearings are pushed into the frame at the right angle. The \"device\" I use to push the new bearings in to the frame. The washer is used to distribute the pressure evenly. This is a photo tken after most of the bearing has aalready been instered into the frame. The new bearing sits already ion the frame behind the washer which you can see in the photo. The nut and the wrench are used to tighten the bearings/washers into the frame. 13) We are pretty much done! All is left is to assmble the device with the steps followed exactly in the reversed order to the described disassembly process. 14) Carefully put the flywheel back into the machine. The gap between the flywheel and the case should be ca. 2mm. If there is more space than that you can use a mallet to drive the flywheel closer to the frame, or you can simply tighten the bearings a bit more as shown in step 12. The gap between the flywheel and the case should be ca. 2mm. [End of part 2. Please read part 3 to continue...] |
2024.04.28 20:01 Much-Banana-949 Wahoo Core - Bearing Replacement Guide - Part 1
 | I needed to replace my bearings again on my Wahoo Kickr Core trainer, and I thought that I would take photos, and describe the replacement process, so that you can do it yourself as well, and not having to pay ÂŁ450 or more to Wahoo for a replacement trainer, especially as those bearings need to be replaced every few thousand kilometers. Even though the replacement is pretty straightforward if you have all the listed tools, and it is quite difficult to brake anything, I do not take a personal reponsibility in case you damage your device, so you are following this guide on your own risk. submitted by Much-Banana-949 to wahoofitness [link] [comments] If you do it for the first time, I would estimate that the replacement process will take ca. 2 hours from start to finish. Please read the whole guide first, before attempting the repair. As there is a photo limit per post this is a part 1 out of 3. Part 2 is here: Guide - Part Two Part 3 is here: Guide - Part Three I hope that you will find it helpful, and I hope that this guide will allow you to save a lot of money. If your Wahoo is under warranty, do not try to disassemble the machine as you will void the warranty; please contact Wahoo support instead. Replacement bearings needed:
Tools Needed:
Mallet Allen Keys Srewdriver Socket wrench 10 and 14 mm Crank puller Bearing Extractor #1 Bearing Extractor #2 Belt Tensioner Spray Threadlocker Dissassembling Kickr Core Kickr Core Steps:
Remove the plastic front cover. 2 Front Allen Screws - Long 1 Front Allen Screw with a Rubber Washer - Short Philips Screw #1 in the Back Philips Screw #2 in the Back 5 Screws need to be unscrewed to remove the front cover. The belt pulley/tensioning system after removing the front cover. 2) Use a sharpie to mark the position of the silver metal plate in relation to the screw attaching the belt bearings to the trainer. We need to know how tight the belt is, so that we can tighten it back to the original setting during the assembly. Mark the position of the plate in relation to the screw. 3) Carefully loosen the main screw holding the plate with the belt bearings (NBK 6001Z). Please do not unscrew the bolt all the way out yet as this whole assembly is under tension, just make sure that the bolt is just loose enough to allow the up/down movement of the plate. The belt bearings typically never need to be reaplaced, and almost never cause any issues, so do not worry about replacing them. The bolt needs a 10 mm socket on a wrench. Now loosen the small but long Allen screw. Removing the Belt Tensioner [I have now reached the photo limit per post; please read part 2 to continue...] |
2024.04.24 12:55 aycko Bearing replacement on Kickr V5 and fixing 0 power afterwards
 | I recently replaced the bearings on my Kickr V5 and want to share my findings as the process was a bit complicated. submitted by aycko to wahoofitness [link] [comments] I followed the tutorial on https://www.unsponsored.co.uk/press/wahoo-kickr-and-kickr-core-repai and https://www.unsponsored.co.uk/press/wahoo-kickr-removing-the-pulley-wheel/, but I struggled to remove the pulley wheel. After a bit of research I found that some models use Locktite Yellow to keep the pulley wheel in place. I got myself a prying tool. The most useful was the metal one with the blue handle. After removing all the plastic covers, I wedged the tool in and applied a bit of pressure. I was careful not to overdo it, so it was a bit more than resting my hand on the handle. Then I heated up the whole pulley wheel with a hair dryer for about 2-3 minutes and felt that the pulley started to give. With the pulley wheel removed I thought the rest was smooth sailing, but the flywheel proved me wrong. It seems the axle of the the flywheel was stuck. I tried to use a rubber hammer with no luck. I added a piece of hard wood and hammered the axle out. It was a lot of force and many hits and it finally came lose. Changing the old bearings required also specialty tools. Two types of bearing removal tools and a bearing press. While one of them might have gone out with a hammer and punch, the other one was stuck on the flywheel axle and wouldn't budge. I was also afraid to damage the black & white pattern for the speed sensor. I used two different bearing removal tools for them. Details are further down in this post. I also used two PostIt notes to protect the black & white pattern from the tools. I ripped out a bit on the top of each PostIt and stuck them on top of the pattern. The sticky part kept them in pace quite well. With the new bearings in place, I closed the Kickr again and tried it with Zwift, but there was no resistance or power. In the Wahoo mobile app, I saw that the speed readings were correct, but no power was registered. It seems that's a whole other can of worms where people have problems with the optical sensor. I was sure that this is not the problem I faced, as I cleaned the pattern surface with rubbing alcohol and the Wahoo app showed speed readings. I wanted to do a spindown, but the current app version didn't give me the option to do it. I was always redirected to information that a spindown is not necessary with the V5. Luckily, I had an old iPhone 5C where I installed an old version of the Wahoo app where I had the option to do a spindown and afterwards I had power readings again. Is there a way to force the current Wahoo app to do a spindown on my Kickr V5? Now, after a few hoops, I have a working Kickr V5 with new bearings. Is it worth it? It depends on the tools you have / plan to buy and the time you are willing to invest. It took me around 2 hours with all the back and forth, but it's a 30 minute job once you have everything and you know what you are doing. With $20 for new bearings you can fix your Kickr to work for another 2-3 years. The tools I used are:
https://preview.redd.it/0zi5l3curewc1.jpg?width=679&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0559705d0827183eb1880e2c74094b48ac2b784 https://preview.redd.it/785734curewc1.jpg?width=679&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8219cee752ff3c4475c025deea7db427f0deff |
2024.04.20 21:47 Massive-Release-1931 Yamaha Qt50
 | I’m rebuilding this Yamaha qt50 and I’ve made it quite far into the engine. But unfortunately I have come across abit of a snag. I can’t seem to figure out how to get this charge coil off. I’ve tried a fly wheel puller wrenching it from both sides but still no luck. Am I doing it wrong is there something I should be doing differently? Any suggestions? submitted by Massive-Release-1931 to Yamaha [link] [comments] |
2024.04.19 14:38 SkinnyG80 Going OTR First Time, What To Bring?
Hi guys and girls, I have a little over 3 years driving experience local, I went mostly the same places and home every night of course, had my own tractor 'kind of', anyways what to bring. It's just always something dumb like I never thought of that.
Tools- have a 5th wheel puller, tire thumper, 2lb mini sledge, dykes, probably bring just basic stuff till I figure out the space I have and all that, zip ties, electrical tape, gloves, nitrile gloves, flashlight, led headlamp, hmm. I'll build as I go unless something I should have right away.
Food- truck has apu, fridge, and microwave, not sure about power inverter or how big yet. First week I'm probably going to do lunch meat, those hormel meals, snacks like cheese, nuts, beef jerky, water. Once I figure stuff out I'll get a hot plate, air fryer maybe, pot, pan, griddle
Cleaners and toiletries- toothbrush, toothpaste, hydrogen peroxide, soap, glass cleaner, all purpose, wipes, flushable butt wipes, body wipes, paper towels, napkins, blue scott towels, air freshener, shower shoes, clothes obviously saline solution, maybe some seat thing that goes on a 5 gallon bucket for poop emergencies and then leave the bag in the fuel isle?
The shop there has fluids and such obviously
Electronics - my shitty Chinese truck GPS, power outlet usb chargers, charging cords, my shitty tablet, what price friendly dash camera do you guys use? I want my own. What about a good GPS, was thinking Garmin but then some people said it sucked, I heard rand McNally? Anyone use a backup camera with Bluetooth they put on the trailer? I should have the same trailer all week.
Just thinking I'm gonna forget something dumb
submitted by SkinnyG80 to Truckers [link] [comments]
Tools- have a 5th wheel puller, tire thumper, 2lb mini sledge, dykes, probably bring just basic stuff till I figure out the space I have and all that, zip ties, electrical tape, gloves, nitrile gloves, flashlight, led headlamp, hmm. I'll build as I go unless something I should have right away.
Food- truck has apu, fridge, and microwave, not sure about power inverter or how big yet. First week I'm probably going to do lunch meat, those hormel meals, snacks like cheese, nuts, beef jerky, water. Once I figure stuff out I'll get a hot plate, air fryer maybe, pot, pan, griddle
Cleaners and toiletries- toothbrush, toothpaste, hydrogen peroxide, soap, glass cleaner, all purpose, wipes, flushable butt wipes, body wipes, paper towels, napkins, blue scott towels, air freshener, shower shoes, clothes obviously saline solution, maybe some seat thing that goes on a 5 gallon bucket for poop emergencies and then leave the bag in the fuel isle?
The shop there has fluids and such obviously
Electronics - my shitty Chinese truck GPS, power outlet usb chargers, charging cords, my shitty tablet, what price friendly dash camera do you guys use? I want my own. What about a good GPS, was thinking Garmin but then some people said it sucked, I heard rand McNally? Anyone use a backup camera with Bluetooth they put on the trailer? I should have the same trailer all week.
Just thinking I'm gonna forget something dumb
2024.04.18 12:39 sinisterbiscuits Briggs 31R577-0027-B1 oil leak
Hey all,
I was recreationally mowing my lawn when my mower seemed to max out rev wise all of a sudden, as if it was running away. I decreased throttle and it came good, but there is oil absolutely pissing out from underneath the fly wheel now.
My question is, would the crank seal on the magneto side leak that hard when running? Would a crank seal letting go cause a rev runaway?
I am waiting for the local hardware store to open so I can get the materials to make a puller and take the F wheel off and have a gander.
Cheers you legends!
submitted by sinisterbiscuits to smallenginerepair [link] [comments]
I was recreationally mowing my lawn when my mower seemed to max out rev wise all of a sudden, as if it was running away. I decreased throttle and it came good, but there is oil absolutely pissing out from underneath the fly wheel now.
My question is, would the crank seal on the magneto side leak that hard when running? Would a crank seal letting go cause a rev runaway?
I am waiting for the local hardware store to open so I can get the materials to make a puller and take the F wheel off and have a gander.
Cheers you legends!
2024.04.18 00:08 SubwaySpiderman Wheel bearing
Well guys I broke down at work luckily, one of my rear wheel bearings is shot. Easy job once I get it trailered back home. Question is what bearing puller you guys use? Do you just rent one from auto zone or just buy one from Amazon or your favorite tool store.
submitted by SubwaySpiderman to sportster [link] [comments]
2024.04.15 04:24 Billybran Axle came off Husqvarna is it worth fixing?
I have a Husqvarna YTH2024 from 2008, the rear wheel was seized and in the process of getting it off the axel popped off with the wheel.
I had tried everything to get it off, every penetrating oil, blow torch, flywheel puller and a home made pull system. Well along the way I finally got it a little loose and when I went to pull the tire off it came along with the axel.
The transaxle cade started dripping fluid which I caught and then it came out quickly. I got the wheel off the axel by hitting it the other direction.
I cleaned out the rim, and the rust off the axel. It took a bit but I finally got the axel back in by rotating the other tire. The rim and new tire slid on and I filled the transaxle case back up.
I was afraid the axel might come lose and it did after about 45 min of use. It just stopped, I jacked the rear up and got it back in.
Has anyone ever run into this scenario? Is the transaxle case done or is there a proper way to lock the axle back in? I plan to take it to a local shop soon, but it's expensive between getting it picked up and if I need a new transaxle I'm probably better off with a new mower based on its age. Any suggestions or input? I feel so defeated having spent so long on a single tire.
It runs fine otherwise but it's older and has issues from time to time.
submitted by Billybran to lawnmowers [link] [comments]
I had tried everything to get it off, every penetrating oil, blow torch, flywheel puller and a home made pull system. Well along the way I finally got it a little loose and when I went to pull the tire off it came along with the axel.
The transaxle cade started dripping fluid which I caught and then it came out quickly. I got the wheel off the axel by hitting it the other direction.
I cleaned out the rim, and the rust off the axel. It took a bit but I finally got the axel back in by rotating the other tire. The rim and new tire slid on and I filled the transaxle case back up.
I was afraid the axel might come lose and it did after about 45 min of use. It just stopped, I jacked the rear up and got it back in.
Has anyone ever run into this scenario? Is the transaxle case done or is there a proper way to lock the axle back in? I plan to take it to a local shop soon, but it's expensive between getting it picked up and if I need a new transaxle I'm probably better off with a new mower based on its age. Any suggestions or input? I feel so defeated having spent so long on a single tire.
It runs fine otherwise but it's older and has issues from time to time.