So, I know this is very superfiscial, but I thought it might be worth an ask. I am currently in the process of finishing my PhD, which in my case consists of a 500 page dissertation (not US, nor STEM, so different requirements to most, I assume...). I am done with the body of text and my supervisor has seen and approved everything/left his comments on all texts with suggestions.
What's left is the last big hurdle of looking over everything, integrating new literature that has since come out, working on flow of arguments, grammar and spelling, editing in a few thoughts etc.
However, before I can get to this, I will give birth in about 3 weeks. I anticipate starting with this last step a couple months afterwards. I have struggled with procrastination throughout my PhD and I know that starting with a new task is especially daunting. I dread what having a newborn will add to this equation. One gift I wanna give myself is getting a rough To-Do list done before birth that I can look at with my sleepdeprived brain in a couple of months and know where to start.
I know that I am motivated by aesthetic and functional things, so I was wondering if there is something out there that helps me make really nice looking to-do-lists? I would prefer a digital solution, because I want the ease of adding lots of steps if necessary. I am aiming for one to-do-list per chapter and I would love if I could maybe add stuff like a progress tracker. Once I am done, I would love to print these out, so I can refer to a physical stack of lists.
Basically I am looking for a printable, beautified version of ToDoIst. I can make it work with ToDoIst, and I will, but wanted to know if anyone knows of a good alternative? :-) :-)
(Oh and if anyone has tips for finishing up the dissertation with a newborn, I am also all ears!!)

Right now I have two that I’ve created, I haven’t really messed around with printing any test pages. Just wondering is one of better than the other to use or if I should go with a different setting option.
2400px width, 3000px height and 600dpi with the color profile as rgb.
Or 2500px width, 3300px height, 300dpi and color profile set as srgb
Or I have 2480px width, 3000 height and 300 dpi, with the color profile set as cymk.
I am looking into getting this kind of paper PPD Inkjet Canvas 100% Real Printable Cotton LTR 8.5 x 11". Unless someone has a better suggestion for type of paper.
This is just going to be a cartoony drawling, something I’m doing for my 94 year old grandmother.

I purchased my SV07 roughly 9 months ago and it has gotten continuous usage since. These are my thoughts on the printer after having it and using it for long enough, that I've gotten extremely comfortable with it. I will post the caveat that this is my first 3D printer, but I did do enough research that I knew going into this, how to properly setup, operate and adjust a printer of this type.
Initially, I had a lot of trouble with my printer. It had a bent hot-end out of the box, and while Sovol support was relatively quick to offer suggestions and help me fix it, they never actually offered to send a replacement hot-end. Ultimately it made very little difference in how the printer operated, it just required slight tweaking to actually account for the slightly different nozzle orifice position. That said, the printer needed lots (and I mean lots) of adjustment and calibration out of the box. Its initial prints were horrible and one by one, I had to dial in nearly every component of the printer, down to adjusting wheel tension and remounting parts. For example, the gantry-mounted parts-fan clipped the edge of the extruder every time it went past it. I wouldn't call it a crash, but it definitely was impacting, so I had to install spacers to make it fit.
The SV07 is the first 3D printer I've purchased, so I can't make any direct comparisons to the work required to setup other printers, but based on what I've seen from Youtube videos, it looks like it required quite a bit more effort than would be considered acceptable for most printers out of the box. However, once adjusted, the printer is fully capable of making some high-quality prints, as long as you're willing to work around its flaws.
The first major hurdle to quality prints that I encountered, was the bed-plate. It warps, badly. Like a taco. This isn't fixable without entirely replacing it with a custom bed-plate option, but I have been able to greatly work around it through a few different means which I'll cover. However, my other issue was consistency. Out of the box, the bed couldn't maintain a consistent level mid-print. As the minutes ticked by, different parts of the bed would begin to drift, causing prints to be horribly inconsistent. This fix was fortunately no more difficult than disassembling and reassembling the bed with care, and then finely tuning the bed with the adjustable spring mounts. I cannot say for sure, but I believe the issue was actually caused by the mounting hardware being able to shift and rotate relative to the bed as it heated and cooled, despite everything appearing tight and properly assembled, causing the bed to drift. Reassembling likely fixed this issue just by the nature of taking it apart and putting it back together with the proper tensions. I still operate my printer with the adjustable bed even though I never need to adjust it now, as I've never been able to get the fixed mounts to stay consistent. They just don't work, or at least I have never been able to make them work.
As for the taco problem, I've managed to work around it by using dynamic bed-meshing to get more precise measurements and per-object printing wherever I can, to really narrow in the bed-mesh to just the exact points on the bed I actually need to use. The bed on the SV07 will never be perfect, but with a lot of work, I did make it usable and consistent. However, large prints--especially large, flat prints that take up much of the bed, will never be great. There's just too much warping on the bed to print this way. So for anyone expecting to use an SV07 to print wall-art from Printables--sorry, probably not going to get good results.
The next major hurdle I faced was the software. The version of Klipper and Fluidd the printer shipped with was ancient and I encountered a lot of issues reliability wise. My KlipperScreen would crash or detach from Fluidd with regularity, so I could print from my computer, but the screen would be in an error mode or blank entirely. Eventually Sovol released a firmware update which changed over to Mainsail and most of these issues went away, but I found a whole slew of new issues, directly related to how old the software/firmware was. Issues like no print stats or preview images because slicers no longer output compatible gcode for these features with the version the printer was running. Unable to use some Klipper extensions because my Klipper was too far out of date, things such as these. It was a lot of work, but ultimately I fixed it by manually updating the software and firmware myself, taking great care to make backups and buying spare EMMC modules so I could easily play around with the updates and only need to roll-back a single step or two when something went wrong. The final step I need to take but have been unable to make work, is expanding the flashed image to make use of the entire EMMC module (I have a 32GB card installed). I've been unable to expand the partition without reformatting, but have been unable to actually get the printer to work with a fully fresh install. Technically I'm still running the original image, just all manually updated. As an aside, I wish there was an easy way to make use of additional storage on the machine. I can't seem to find any detailed instructions on how to add a second virtual SDCard I can use to store gcode files, that works properly on this printer. Any attempt to address the onboard SDCard slot or a USB drive as a virtual card doesn't work. I know this is nothing more than me not configuring it correctly, but I can't believe out of the entire community, no one has shared how (that I've been able to find, anyhow).
Then comes reliability. According to my Mainsail stats page (which obviously doesn't cover the entire time I've had the printer, because of the software/firmware updates and all), I have 425 hrs of print-time on this machine over 407 different prints. In this time, I've had to rebuild or replace most parts at least once. The v-wheels even when properly adjusted, don't last long without heavily wearing. I'm actually quite happy with how well they work, but they are certainly a high-wear, high-replacement item. Using air and a vacuum to cleanup all the plastic fuzz they leave everywhere is certainly a required regular maintenance procedure. My entire extruder assembly has certainly seen some maintenance as well. All the original plastic parts are damaged or destroyed. The holder for the probe is cracked entirely through, the extruder fans have warped over time, the extruder ribbon-cable has worn through and now has a drag-chain to prevent destroying it, etc.. The reality is that I bought this printer knowing it was inexpensive and that meant parts were likely to fail on it, and that has been entirely my experience with it. The factory parts simply aren't up to heavy usage--they will fail.
My final thoughts boiled down, are that the printer is good value for what it costs, but it shouldn't be your workhorse if you actually need a reliable printer you don't need to constantly tinker with and work on. I believe there are considerably better offerings if you're willing to go even slightly higher in price-point, but the sweet-spot for this printer seems to be that it's the cheapest good printer you can buy. What I mean by that, is that you cannot buy another printer for this price or less, that will be capable of printing parts to the same quality as this one. Make no mistake, for its faults, the SV07, when adjusted, calibrated, properly modified and its flaws taken into account, can make some stellar prints. But you will work for these prints. So knowing everything I know now, would I still buy it? No. Absolutely not. Not even a consideration. I could have spent another $100 and gotten much more printer, elsewhere. SOVOL is also very bad about properly honoring their open-source commitments and given how they setup the software and firmware in a way that makes it hard to update away from their own updates, I would like to be outside of their ecosystem. But the SV07 does have its place and I am happy I have it available as a printer.

This is third version of an FAQ first posted several years ago by u/watts52 . The second version, posted by u/brassage is here. The primary changes have been to update links that have changed or are no longer active, and to add a few more resources and recent threads on the existing topics. Primary credit goes to u/watts52, the original poster.
This FAQ covers many common topics discussed on foreignservice . All answers have been pulled from public sources and without any information covered by NDA. Error reports, additions, and clarifications welcome in the comments. (Last update 11 May 2024)

Foreign Service Super FAQ

1. How do I become a diplomat? How do I work in the foreign service? The best place to learn about this is in the Careers Section of the State Department website. Start here.
2. What are the differences among FSO, FSS, LNA, CF, CS, and EFM?

• Here is an excellent general overview. {HT: zzonkmiles}
• FSO - Foreign service officers are generalists who serve, usually abroad, in one of five different "cones" (career tracks). Learn more.
• FSS - Foreign service specialists "provide important technical, management, healthcare, or administrative services" at overseas posts Learn more.
• LNA - Limited Non-Career Appointments are opportunities ranging from 15 to 60 months in a handful of specialized areas. Learn more.
• CF - Consular fellows (a subset of LNAs) work alongside FSOs and primarily "adjudicate visas for foreign nationals." Learn more.
• CS - The civil service is a part of the State Department, but is not considered part of the foreign service. Most civil service jobs are based in DC, and this sub typically does not deal with issues related to the civil service. Learn more.
• EFM - Eligible Family members - these are family members (typically spouses) of FSOs or FSSs who work for the State Department at the same post as the FSO or FSS. EFM jobs are not always available and sometimes subject to hiring freezes.

1. Is the Foreign Service the same thing as the State Department? No, the State Department consists of the foreign service (employees who are typically overseas) and the civil service (all other employees who are typically serving in DC). In addition, the term "foreign service" may also include:

• the US Foreign Commercial Service in the Commerce department.
• the US Foreign Agricultural Service
• the US Agency for Global Media (formerly the Broadcasting Board of Governors)
• the US Agency for International Development (USAID)

1. Where can I find answers to nearly any question I might have about getting in to the foreign service?

• This foreignservice sub (search archives)
• The FSOT Yahoo Group (search archives)
• The FSOA Yahoo Group (search archives) No longer in service. If anyone has an updated option, please comment, and I'll edit the post.
• Read the selection process brochure.
• The official State Department FAQ
• For FSS Applicants, the Foreign Service Specialist Careers Yahoo Group {HT: kaiserjoeicem}

1. Why should I consider the foreign service? Why not?

• Various reasons for joining.
• Here is a thread mostly involving reasons against joining.
• An FSO's reasons for leaving the foreign service. A more recent thread on why some former FS personnel resigned.
• Pros and Cons of the Foreign Service lifestyle.
• Pleasant surprises and biggest disappointments about life in the Foreign Service.
• Misconceptions about life in the Foreign Service.

FSO Career Tracks / Cones

1. Which cone is the best fit for me? Take the Career Track Quiz to find out. It's really important for you to pick a track that you have a passion for.
2. What are the differences among the cones? How do I choose a cone?

• Read summaries & detailed job descriptions of all the cones.
• Watch employee video interviews covering all different parts of the State Department, including all different FSO cones.
• Read these threads about job duties in each of the cones: Consular, Economic, Management, Political, Public Diplomacy
• A Day in the Life Series - Some of these are pretty tongue-in-cheek, but still insightful in their own ways.
  • Political Officer
  • Consular Officer
  • CONS - American Citizen Services
  • Economic Officer
  • ECON - Environment, Science, Technology, and Health Officer
  • Management Officer
  • Management - General Services Officer
  • Public Diplomacy - Press Officer
  • Diplomatic Security Special Agent
  • Diplomatic Security - Security Engineering Officer
  • Office Management Specialist

1. Which cone gives me the best chance of getting in? Which cones are hiring the most people right now? It depends on your background and your own desires and motivations, and it depends on the needs of the service. Even if we could tell you which cones are hiring the most people now, the hiring process can take one to three years and things may be different by the time you are eligible to receive a job offer. Do not make the mistake of choosing a cone based on what you think your "chances" are. Too many people make this mistake. If you choose a cone this way, you will probably find yourself in a job you dislike, and you'll have wasted a lot of time and energy "getting in" and you'll be looking for a way to be "getting out." Further discussion here...
2. Can I change cones? Would it be a good idea to come in as a Consular Officer and later switch to a Political Officer? In theory it's possible to change cones. In practice, it's difficult to do so, and you shouldn't plan on it. Some discussion here.
3. Can I choose one cone and then simply do out-of-cone work? Maybe, but that's a silly game to play and it's likely counterproductive to your other career and non-career goals. If you are really interested in one cone, choose that one when you apply. Too many applicants attempt to game the system by choosing an "easy" cone with some scheme to actually end up switching to or working in a different cone, but experienced FSOs on this sub have stated repeatedly that such schemes never really work out. That said, there is a lot of variety in foreign service work. Pick a cone that is of interest to you, and you will have plenty of opportunities to serve in different roles. More thoughts here and here.
4. I have a terrific idea for how to game the cone system that is not listed here. No, you don't. Somebody has already tried it and ended up being sad. Please don't try to game the system - it won't work the way you're hoping it will. Instead, just choose a cone based on your interests, talents, abilities, and passions, and work from there. You'll be happier and more successful in the long run.

Posts, Assignments, and Worldwide Availability

1. How do post assignments work?

• A great overview of 1st and 2nd tour bidding, post assignments, and language training
• First tour assignment thoughts
• First & Second tour bidding and More information, and more here.
• Second tour bidding
• Entry Level Office Management Specialist Bidding
• Bidding for third tour and beyond
• More mid-level bidding

1. I have an interest in working in country X or at least in a certain region of the world. How can I do that in the foreign service? During your first two tours, you're "directed" meaning you have a restricted list of places you might end up. Beyond that, you'll be responsible for finding your own assignments. It would not be uncommon for someone to develop regional expertise over time, but regional expertise doesn't mean you'd be bouncing between Paris and Geneva for the rest of your career. It's also easier to specialize in bigger countries or regions like the PRC or former Soviet Union than it is to specialize in smaller countries or niche sub-regions like Austria or the Gulf. Further discussion
2. I have a terrific idea for how to game the assignment system that is not listed here. No, you don't. Somebody has already tried it and ended up being sad. Please don't try to game the system - it won't work the way you're hoping it will. Instead, just be prepared to be "worldwide available" and understand that might mean Paris or Bangui, Caracas or Tashkent, Wellington or Bamako, Tijuana or Toronto. If you are not comfortable with that type of availability, this is not the career for you.
3. What are the popular or unpopular posts? It depends on the person, on the people you work with at a given post, and on environmental factors, among other things. A lot of people come in imagining they'd love working in a western European capital city only to find the cost of living, culture of the post, personality of their direct supervisor, commute to the office, or some other factor makes life less fun than it would've been if they'd simply visited that same city on vacation. Posts in other parts of the world such as sub-Saharan Africa or central Asia may have tighter-knit expat communities or post culture or better housing options or other benefits that make them more desirable for some people. One person's best post might be another person's worst. Many people on this sub have indicated that they've hated posts they expected to love and loved posts they expected to hate. One frequently mentioned bit of advice on this sub is not to think of Foreign Service posts as you would think of vacation destinations. Here is a good discussion of this topic. And here is a longer discussion of various posts that current or aspiring FSOs either like or don't like for various reasons.
4. Where can I learn about what life is like at different posts? Try reading these real post reports.

Hiring process

1. Why does the hiring process seem so opaque/confusing/mysterious/complicated? It's not really opaque, as State tells you exactly what they're looking for in candidates and provides study materials and resources for preparing for each stage. That said, a lot of candidates seem to feel frustrated or confused by the process for a variety of reasons. These may include:

• The process is long and does not offer immediate gratification. You should plan to move forward with life as usual and work through the foreign service hiring process in the background. There is simply a lot of waiting involved.
• Many candidates, surprisingly, seem not to follow directions and are then confused when they don't pass a certain stage of the process. By way of example, the instructions from the QEP about how to write personal narratives include the instruction, "Simple lists of accomplishments, recaps of candidates' resumes...are not effective." But one person did exactly this in the Leadership Skills essay and did not pass. This is not to say there are no other problems with this candidate's PNs, but if you make sure to follow each stage's instructions exactly, the process (and your results) won't seem so confusing.
• Many candidates, young and old, mistakenly assume that their work/life/school experience makes them more than qualified for an entry-level FSO role. In actuality, successful candidates translate that experience into the six precepts and thirteen dimensions during the QEP and FSOA stages, respectively.

1. How can I improve my chances of passing?

• FSOT - Be well-read on a diverse set of subjects, take the State Department reading list seriously, practice good test taking skills, know your English grammar perfectly, and be able to write in a clear and concise manner.
• QEP - Follow the directions exactly. Answer the questions exactly as written. Do not list your resume in bullet points. Do tell relevant (and verifiably true) stories. Have diverse life and work experiences that map easily to the job description of the cone you've selected and to the precept described in the essay prompt.
• FSOA - Practice, practice, practice ahead of time. Use the former Yahoo Group Files. Be relaxed and composed. Make every action and every word you use roll up into one or more of the 11 dimensions. Come across as someone that other people would want to work with. Smile. Oh, and practice.
• Security clearance - Before you get to the security clearance stage, make sure you've buttoned up everything you can think of, from past stupid behavior to credit reports to tax filings. Consider running a cheap background check on yourself. When filling out your SF-86, disclose everything. Don't make anything a surprise. When you meet with your investigator, disclose everything relevant to the questions and the time frames included. Make sure you understand what they're looking for and be proactive about bringing troublesome/questionable points to the investigator's attention.
• For all stages - read the instructions and do exactly what they are asking you to do, no more and no less. Do not try to guess what the examiners want to hear. They are telling you exactly what they want each time - whether it's demonstration of general knowledge and English expertise, clear and concise writing, demonstration of the six precepts, or demonstration of the thirteen dimensions. Whichever stage you're working through, assume that you're being graded according to a rubric that matches exactly to the instructions you're given.

1. Approximately what percentage of people pass each of the stages? No one outside State really knows exactly, and numbers can vary from year to year, depending on hiring projections, but based on various reports (example) and conjecture here are some approximate guesses. Feel free to disagree.

• Total number of people who take the FSOT in a given year: 17000, give or take. (Although in 2017, State reportedthe number had dropped to just 9519. This lower number, though, does not mean one's "chances" are any better or any worse this year.) Note that while these numbers are expressed as numerical percentages, they should not be interpreted as probabilities.
• FSOT - No longer pass/fail
• QEP - This can vary greatly based on the needs of the service by cone, the total number of applicants, and various other factors.
• FSOA - Approximately 40-50% pass
• Clearances, suitability & receiving an offer before timing off the register: 60-80%. Very few people are denied a security clearance (though getting the clearance may take a long time). More commonly, the people that pass the FSOA but do not become FSOs are those with low FSOA scores who time off the register after 18 months or those who choose to cancel their candidacy for one reason or another. Historically, about 2-3% of FSOT takers ended up as FSOs eventually.

1. How long will it take me to get through the process? Assuming everything goes perfectly, at least a year but possibly much longer. For example: if you take the FSOT today, it will be a couple of months before you get your results. You'll have three weeks to submit your essays to the QEP and then another couple months of waiting. You'll then have to schedule your oral assessment (another 2-4 month wait) and if you pass that, you'll enter the medical and security clearance stage which will take at least 6 months in most cases, but possibly much longer. (Yes, there are anectodal exceptions to all of the above.) You'll then go through final suitability review, which will take anywhere from a week to several months and only at that point will you be on the register. You will then have to wait for hiring to be authorized and to receive an offer. You'll be on the register for 18 months, and if you don't get an offer during that window of time, your candidacy will end. If an offer doesn't come through (or if you fail any of the steps of the process), you'll have to start over by taking the FSOT again the next time you're eligible. So if you take the FSOT today, the best case scenario would be for you to be joining the foreign service a little over a year from now, but a more likely scenario is that you'll be working through this process and doing a lot of waiting for a couple of years or more. Use the time productively - there's no benefit to sitting around and stressing over the what-ifs of State Department hiring.
2. How can I use my time productively?

• Learn a language to improve your register position
• Engage in meaningful work to improve your demonstration of the 11 dimensions.
• Start another candidacy in parallel. In most cases, you are allowed to take the FSOT once per year, so take it every time you have the opportunity.
• Take this advice.

1. What if I fail one of the stages? Then you are human and you've had an experience not unlike ~98% of applicants each year. If you're interested in the foreign service, try again. Some people have taken the test more than ten times and many of today's FSO's were hired on subsequent tries because they persisted and improved themselves each time.
2. Is there a hiring freeze? Should I wait to apply until after things return to normal? Whether there is a hiring freeze in effect or not doesn't matter. As one person said, "It'll take a long time from test to diplomat, so I don't think the temporal minutia will really matter by the time we're on the register." If you're interested in the Foreign Service, go take the test and get the process started. It's free. Worst case, you fail and you'll take the test another time (which is what you would've done if you had tried to wait out the hiring freeze). But it might be that you succeed and find yourself well-positioned on the register in time for the next big round of hiring.
3. Is there going to be an A-100 soon? Will [cone] spots be available? How should I interpret the remarks of [important person]? Are they really only going to hire [number] of people this year? I can't deal with the stress! Why are they making me put my life on hold? Why won't they extend my time on the register? How many people will retire/resign/take an early buyout this year? How many Rangel/Pickering fellows are there and what percentage of the jobs will they take? What is the status of [funding legislation in congress]? Does [random thing I read in the news] mean we should expect to see a new A-100 now? Why does FSI have training classes on their schedule if no invites have gone out yet? etc. As an exasperated someone humorously posted on another forum, "Seriously chill. Even if you were provided this information, which isn’t likely, it has no effect on whether there are spots left for you. Enough with trying to predict what happens this year. Wait it out like any job interview."

FSOT - The Foreign Service officer Test

1. What is the difference between the FSWE and the FSOT? The FSOT is the Foreign Service Officer Test. Its predecessor was the FSWE, the Foreign Service Written Exam, and is no longer administered. You can sign up to take the FSOT here.
2. What are my chances of passing? There is no way to know without trying. If you're interested, take the test and see how you do. People on this sub won't be able to tell you how you're likely to do, and if you try and fail and then try again, you may find that you perform better and pass the second (or third or fourth) time around. Remember: taking the test is free. (You only have to pay if you sign up and then fail to take the test.) So you have nothing to lose - get out there and give it a go.
3. How can I prepare?

• Take the practice test.
• Read the Suggested Reading List.
• Set your expectations that this process will take a long time. If you are just now getting ready to take the FSOT, chances are you will not be a new FSO next year at this time. Most people will not successfully become FSO's on their first try. But that doesn't mean you should give up! You will try, you will try again. You will need to maintain a positive attitude. You will need to be patient. Don't make Foreign Service your Plan A. Move on with life while you are working your way through the foreign service hiring process.

1. Where can I find more information about the FSOT? Try the FSOT Frequently Asked Questions on the Pearson site. (Pearson is currently the company that administers the FSOT and some of the subsequent steps of the hiring process.)

QEP - The Qualifications Evaluation Panel

1. What is the difference between the QEP and the PN's or the PNQ's? People use these acronyms to talk about the same part of the process, even though they mean different things. The QEP is the Qualifications Evaluation Panel, and its job is to evaluate, based on a set of short essays, the likelihood that someone who passed the FSOT will also pass the FSOA. FSOT passers write one essay (a "personal narrative" or "PN") for each of six prompts (each a "personal narrative question" or "PNQ").
2. When will I know if I made it to the QEP? You will get an email from Pearson a few weeks after the close of the FSOT testing window. Your results will also appear in your online account with Pearson. When you are notified that you made it to the QEP, you will have approximately three weeks to write your essays and submit them through the Pearson interface.

FSOA - The Foreign Service Oral Assessment

1. Where is the FSOA held? As of May 2024, it is now held virtually, over the course of two days.
2. When will I know if I made it to the FSOA? You will get an email from Pearson a few weeks after you submit your personal narratives to the QEP. Your results will also appear in your online account with Pearson. When you are notified that you made it to the FSOA, you will have the opportunity to schedule your FSOA date through the Pearson interface.
3. How can I prepare?

• The FSOA evaluates your demonstration of the 11 dimensions. Know them inside and out.
• Take advantage of the old Yahoo Group FSOA files.
• Contact your Diplomat in Residence, as many of them hold FSOA info sessions.

Clearances

1. What is the process for getting my security clearance?
   1. After you pass the FSOA, you will receive a packet of information describing how this process works. Basically, within 30 days you will fill out a lengthy questionnaire electronically on the e-QIP system. (Read e-QIP FAQs here.)
   2. The e-QIP is the electronic version of the "SF-86," a standard PDF/printable form with essentially the same questions. Although not necessary, some have recommended using a printed SF-86 form to collect all of your responses to the e-QIP and then transcribe them into the electronic system when you are ready. (The e-QIP system does allow you to save and return to work again later.) Start early: many have reported that tracking down all their foreign contacts or previous addresses has taken a long time.
   3. You will wait for a period of time (say between a few days and a few months) and then you will be contacted by an investigator from Diplomatic Security. You will set up an interview with him or her. The investigator will let you know if additional information is required; you can speed up the process by disclosing everything up front. Don't try to hide the negatives; be up front and transparent.
2. Will X affect my ability to get a clearance? It depends. Here are the guidelines.
3. What percentage of applicants are denied a security clearance? Only about 0.1% of initial cases, per the 2015 ODNI report. However the report notes State may discontinue security processing due to automatic disqualifiers found during a suitability review before the case reaches the security clearance adjudication phase. These cases are cancelled by Human Resources before security clearance determinations are rendered and are not, therefore, categorized as security clearance denials. {HT: Christabel34}

Register

1. Where can I find the shadow registers? How can I be added? What is my position on the register? Contact the volunteer maintaining the shadow register for your career track or specialty

Languages

1. Do I have to know a foreign language to be in the foreign service? No, but if you do know a language well, you will receive bonus points and may be hired before a similarly-qualified candidate without language ability. Also, every new FSO must learn a language within the first few years of service. You are on so-called "language probation" until you have passed the appropriate language exam. FSI will provide the language training for any language-designated position in which you are to serve.
2. How do language bonus points work? When you pass the FSOA, you will have a score, usually between about 5.3 and 6, though scores can be as high as 7. You will be ranked by score against other people in your cone, and the higher scores will be hired first. So if you have the highest score for your cone. The only way to improve your score (unless you are a veteran) is to pass a language test. Most languages will get you an additional .17 points if you can demonstrate a "general professional proficiency" on the Interagency Language Roundtable Scale. For examples of the level of proficiency you would need, watch these videos. Harder languages that are in higher demand by the State Department can get you either .25 or .38 points. A list of languages for which State offers bonus points is here. And this thread has some excellent advice on languages.
3. If I speak language X, will I get sent to a post where that language is needed? Not necessarily, unless you received language bonus points for a super critical needs language. In that latter case, you can expect to serve in a position designated for that language at least twice in your career. The super critical needs languages are listed in the bottom table on this page. But if you come in with a fluency in, say, Spanish (which is not a super critical needs language), there is no guarantee that you'll be sent to a Spanish-speaking post.

Life & Work in the Foreign Service

1. What is it like to find out what your next post will be? Read many flag day stories here.
2. How does pay work? How is my salary calculated? What allowances do I get? Read this excellent Foreign Service Officer Salary Guide. You can also look up information about various posts, but be advised that the data on this site is not necessarily official and may be out of date.
3. Will I be required to serve in an unaccompanied post? You are "worldwide available," so in theory it can happen. In practice, there are a lot of people who volunteer to serve in unaccompanied posts for various reasons, and it would be unlikely that you would be forced to serve in one if you didn't want to.
4. What is it like to be LGBT in the foreign service? Review GLIFAA's website and resources, read read real post reports, which have a specific section for LGBT info, by post and these threads - LGBT, Foreign Commercial Service LGBT, same sex marriage, Robyn McCutcheon's book about her career Foreign Service, including as the first trans FSO.

Will it help/hurt my chances if...

1. ...I have a graduate degree from a really good school with a high GPA or I have no degree at all? No, it really doesn't matter.
2. ...I did drugs or committed a crime or did something stupid a long time ago? It could hurt you, but it really depends on what you did, how you dealt with the problem, and what you've been doing since then. Go ahead and apply.
3. ...I did drugs or committed a crime or did something stupid recently? It could hurt you, and if you're continuing to show poor judgment in life, it's going to be next to impossible for you to join the foreign service. However, no one on this sub will be able to tell you definitively what your outcome is likely to be. Fix whatever it is and try again. You won't know if or how this will affect your candidacy unless you try.
4. ...I have dual citizenship? Your clearances will take longer, but it's not a deal breaker. Read details here.
5. **...I have a foreign-born spouse or I have many contacts overseas or I have lived overseas for a long time?**Same answer: your clearances will take longer, but it's not a deal breaker. Read details here and here.

Miscellaneous

1. What happens after I receive my Orientation offer? Orientation 101 is the initial training class you take when you officially start work in the foreign service. Congratulations! It is a time of a lot of changes. Here is a description of what happens.
2. How can I become an Ambassador? You probably won't become an ambassador, and it's not worth the brain cycles to try to plan for it. But even if you have the right set of skills, knowledge, and luck through a career spanning many decades and you end up as an ambassador, you will still have spent far more time as a rank-and-file career employee than as an ambassador. So make sure you are interested, first and foremost, in the job and lifestyle of a foreign service officer, which is where you will spend the entirety of your career.
3. I am outraged over what the President / Secretary / someone else in power just said / did! Nothing wrong with feeling outrage, but what you do with that feeling may matter. And while you may dissent through the appropriate (private) channel, no matter who is in power and no matter who you voted for, your duty as a foreign service officer is to publicly advance the interests of the U.S. As a simplistic example, take a look at who came in first or second in the presidential elections going back ~20 years. Any of them could've been your boss (with small differences in electoral returns for the runners-up, of course): B. Clinton, Dole, Bush, Gore, Kerry, McCain, Obama, Romney, H. Clinton, Trump. Those individuals hold a pretty diverse set of policy views, and the next twenty years of presidential elections will probably result in a similarly diverse list. So if you want to be in the foreign service, think of your job as representing the U.S. regardless of who is in power. If you can see yourself representing the U.S. when person A is in power but not when person B is in power, this may not be the best career for you in the long run.

Additional Resources

• Department of State Careers
• Global Community Liaison Office
• American Foreign Service Association (AFSA)
  • Foreign Service Journal
  • AFSA's Foreign Service Statistics page
  • Foreign Service by the Numbers
• Tales from a Small Planet
• Path to Foreign Service
• American Diplomat podcast
• Modern American Diplomacy podcast

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Alright, so you received your N4Plus/N4+. You've followed the instructions to a tee. You've even managed to print the presliced models using the GCode files that came with machine. Congratulations! However, you've started to realize that your own sliced files aren't printing so well. Or, you're looking to take the next steps toward better printing.
There are too many people for shoutouts, but let's just say that this is standing on the shoulders of everyone who posted similar topics before. Please note that these are recommendations, and you'll get different answers from different people regarding different topics, but here is what I found worked best for me as of May 2024.
This is not all-inclusive, but I'll update as I find more things need to be added. For the most part, I won't get into 3D printing terminology. There are exhaustive sources out there.
I should also note that there are many posts here and there referring to de-Elegooizing the printer, switching to stock Klipper firmware, etc. This guide does not go into that but you should check those out to decide if that's right for you.

• At a minimum, subscribe to these reddits:
  1. ElegooNeptune4
  2. ElegooNeptune4Plus
  3. FixMyPrint
• Join the Discord at https://discord.com/invite/shv7ZWyzdP . I can't stress this enough. Along with the occasional official Elegoo help, there are a large number of people there to help you, like more than you'll find here. You'll also get notified of the fairly regular Elegoo contests.
• Bookmark the Elegoo Official Youtube Channel. There you'll find videos showing how to do various things, such as change the nozzle properly.
• Check out this Neptune 4 Plus collection over at Printables. You'll find many models that you may wish to print at a later date to improve your printer. Just don't print more for your printer than you do for yourself, unless that's what makes you happy. Thingiverse has some as well, but most have been carried over to Printables.
• I very strongly recommend switching to using OrcaSlicer. The version of Cura put out by Elegoo is quite outdated. OrcaSlicer includes various features not yet implemented by Cura, and some of the infills are better. You'll likely find that the calibration presets are worth it alone. (Plus, you can always still use Cura or another slicer after calibrating.) A few months ago, OrcaSlicer released very good default profiles for the Neptune 4 Plus, along with generic Elegoo branded filament profiles. Every filament you use will need its own calibration profile to print well. OrcaSlicer combines the calibration models of various people into one great setup and calibration guide. You can also try using the latest version of Cura and creating or finding a printer profile for it. Cura's not my cup of tea, but it's been around for awhile and has loads of fans.
• What filament should you use first? It's generally recommended you start with PLA, PLA Plus, Rapid PLA Plus (or even PLA Pro). Different manufacturers use different terminology and even with the same terminology they are all different. I don't recommend starting with silk PLA or rainbow PLA as those are more difficult to print. Different filaments have different flow rates. Don't expect to reprint the benchy shipped with the printer using regular PLA at the same speed and quality as Rapid PLA Plus.
• Connect your printer to wifi or directly to your router via RJ45 if you haven't already. Make note of the IP address. You may prefer to designate this IP address through your router's interface so that it doesn't change every time the printer reconnects (say, after shutting down and turning it back on). Chances are you'll never want to load a file on a USB flash drive when you have a networked connection. Note: when you send files to the printer, they get stored on the printer's internal memory first. The computer doesn't need to remain connected, but it's recommended for quick access to the Fluidd interface.
• Note early on: Do NOT ever start a print, home the print head, start calibration, etc., without the magnetic PEI plate on the bed. The inductive probe uses this sheet to know when it's getting close to the bed, so if it's not there, you'll hear the sweet sounds of the stepper motors grinding the hotend into the bed, leaving a nice little dent. Many have fared well after such an event, but don't let it happen and you won't have to worry about it.
• You'll likely want to swap out the bed springs for silicone spacers. The spacers seem to hold the manual bed leveling better as they have less play. You'll find many people writing about no longer having to do a manual level, create a bed mesh, or even change the z-offset frequently after switching to silicone spacers. I run the process to check the mesh about once a month since switching. These are the ones I purchased, and I did not have to modify them to fit. They will squeeze the bed insulation. You can wait to do this after printing for awhile, if you decide to get them. The below steps for leveling the bed don't take very long so it's not going to set you back more than an hour. You'll note that some people have chosen to keep the springs because they still work, or because of the theoretical safety reason of the nozzle slamming into a slightly springier bed. However, I'm not truly sure that's a justifiable reason.
• Update your printer's firmware if it's not already up-to-date. Then update the screen's firmware. Note that I wrote these in two separate sentences. That's because there are numerous posts on Reddit and Discord asking why the printer doesn't work after updating the firmware, and it's because it's easy to overlook the second part of the firmware updating process, despite the instructions saying it. It's really easy to stop reading after the printer firmware is updated, thinking you finished. You can get the firmware updates through the Discord or via the Elegoo website. Read through the instructions completely before starting the process. You'll need a microSD card (the printer comes with one, and the USB adapter to use with the computer) and a USB flash drive (which it also comes with).
• If you haven't checked screws all over the machine to make sure they're tight, do this now. However, don't tighten down the screws around the brass bushings that attach the x gantry with the print head to the lead screws. These are meant to have a little slack. There are many videos and posts about this.
• Check the pom wheels. These are the wheels that run along the aluminum extrusions and act as a guide. The bed should not jiggle when you go to move it. You may need to adjust the pom wheels. Not all pom wheels need adjusting and therefore not all have eccentric nuts. (The small nuts right under the bed are NOT the ones to adjust.) You may need to adjust the ones on gantry as well so that they can move slightly but don't really slip on there own. There is a video on the Elegoo YouTube channel about this.
• Check your belts. I haven't found a definitive source on how tight they should be, or even how to measure it, but there are many videos out there and you should watch a few. Too tight, and you'll wear them down prematurely. Too lose, and you may get some skipping leading to artifacts in the prints. I've been told that the belts can become loose over time, more than just from stretching, but also from the vibrations loosening the knobs. There are small printable "locks" on Printables.com and Thingiverse for the X and Y belt adjustment knobs.
• Download Bed Leveler 5000. The creator has many YouTube videos walking you through the setup and use of this fantastic manual leveler. This software is to assist you in the manual leveling portion of your calibration, without using paper. Take note that you aren't actually "leveling" the bed, but "tramming" it. You'll see both terms used interchangeably. Manually leveling the bed, which you likely did in the initial setup, is key to getting a great bed mesh, and a great bed mesh is key to minimizing minute hotend movements, thereby increasing the chances of a quality print. It also reduces the work of the stepper motors, though the jury is out on how much that matters in the long run.
  • Follow the instructions on the page and watch the videos to learn how to do the manual portion of the tramming process.
  • Note: You'll find people reference using SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE, but more and more people are switching to BL5000 as it's faster.
  • Note 2: Probes are not perfect and the inductive probe on your Neptune 4 Plus is definitely not an exception. You can probe the same location multiple times and get different values each time for distance to the bed. However, the one supplied with the printer is in range for what's considered acceptable variation. Therefore, do not strive for "perfection" when running a bed mesh or a manual tramming. It's just not possible, nor is it required. Just aim for very good. The precision of the filament being squished through the extruder likely has a higher tolerance for what's considered acceptable, so being perfect at the bed level won't fix this anyway.
• Connect to your printer through your browser or slicer by using the IP address assigned to it by your router. It will generally be something such as 192.168.1.XX. This is the Fluidd interface, which uses the Moonraker API to connect to your printer. Many people choose to use this over the screen on the printer, as it's faster and has more features. You can edit the configuration files, set the z offset, change virtually every setting on the printer you need to, upload and print files, create a bed mesh, etc. However, for the automatic bed mesh creation process, I still recommend using the printer's screen. Your printer uses an Elegoo version of the Klipper firmware.
• Go into the settings on the printer's screen and change the automatic bed leveling (ABL) to advanced mode. This takes longer, but 121 points for a bed mesh will definitely give you a better mesh.
• Run the automatic bed leveling as described in the initial setup for the printer. This creates a bed mesh that Klipper will use by default. (If you opt to use the Fluidd interface for the bed mesh, you'll likely want to edit the configuration file for the printer as it doesn't use that many points by default. More information is available via the Klipper documentation. You could also choose to use the same number of points, but then use interpolation.) You can view the bed mesh created by the screen or by Fluidd, using, well, Fluidd. You'll see the variance there as well. Most people consider a variance of less than 0.2 acceptable, but it's an arbitrary number.
  • Remember, the bed mesh is created so that the printer can account for abnormalities in the bed and printing surface shape by moving the print head vertically. Small variations are going to exist, and the bed mesh will let the printer keep plugging away without stumbling on them. There is a version of this where instead of moving the print head up and down, it can extrude more or less filament to make a perfectly flat first layer, but I'm not aware of any printers currently using this method.
• Great, so now your bed is trammed. What next? Now we should calibrate for your filament. In reality, you can likely print okay now, but we're striving for better, so we can print larger more complex models.
  • OrcaSlicer has the built-in calibration models that automatically change the GCode. Just remember to click "New project" if you decide to print something, or use a new calibration model, or the old settings may be applied to your new model. There is a calibration guide there as well.
  • There are three main 3D printer calibration guides (in addition to the OrcaSlicer guide, which explains how but not necessarily why). I highly recommend you read through them before getting your hands dirty calibrating for your filament. I will not try to create my own guide here.
    • Ellis' Print Tuning Guide
    • All3DP
    • Teaching Tech
  • Remember that once you find a setting, you need to update that setting in your filament profile. This is different for each slicer. You don't want to find that your PLA prints best at 205C, but then mistakenly run the next calibration scheme at 215C. Or, you find that a certain filament runs best with a pressure advance of 0.048 but then forget to enter it, or enter it and then forget to check the override box to actually use the value you entered.
  • In short, you're looking to calibrate the printing temperature, the flow rate, the pressure advance, the max flow rate (which will determine the max speed of printing for each filament), and sometimes the retraction settings.
• In those calibration guides, you'll find PID tuning. Do this! There is Klipper documentation but All3DP has a good guide as well. It's for the bed and the nozzle. You can actually run the nozzle PID right from the printer screen if you choose to go this route.
  • You will need to do this whenever you change the nozzle to a different material or size. You can "comment out" the previous ones and label them so you don't have to keep running this calibration, as it takes time. Just remember to change them back later.
• Through the printer's screen, there is an option in the Settings > Advanced Settings menu to calibrate the input shaping. Do this (while there aren't cars or trains going by your house, or kids running by your printer)! This will help the printer compensate for vibrations that it causes.
• Before printing a model, you will need to set the z-offset. There are two main ways to do this. One is to do the paper or feeler gauge method (which includes just looking at it to see how much light comes through. The other is to adjust on the fly. For those of you new to 3D printing, the easiest way to understand z-offset is that it's the difference between what the computeprinter "thinks" is zero distance between the nozzle tip and the printing surface, and what the actual distance is. If the printer thinks it's touching the bed, but the nozzle is actually 1.850mm above the bed, then theoretically you'd set the z-offset to -1.850mm. Now, while the definition is as simple as this, the reality is a little bit different. One reason the z offset may change is because you change the thickness of the printing surface. Perhaps you bought a new magnetic sheet to try out and it's a different brand. The thickness will be different. With the textured sheet, squishing the filament into the nooks and crannies requires that the first layer print slightly closer to the bed than if it was as smooth as glass. Some filament types work better with less squish, and therefore a nozzle that's farther from the bed.
  • Temperature causes materials to expand and contract. If you set your z-offset while the nozzle and bed are cold (because it's safer), know that the nozzle will likely be closer to the bed when it heats up. This is why feeler gauges and paper is used. It assumes a certain expansion.
  • After using both methods extensively, I highly recommend changing z-offset on the fly, with a model dedicated to this purpose. Here is a fantastic one, as it prints a few lines, then prints only on the left or right so you can see what's going on. You will need to change the infill direction to be 0 or 90 degrees (going left to right) in your slicer before slicing to use it properly. Each slicer has a slightly different way of doing this.
  • Get used to the image at this post. You will need to know whether you're too far from or too close to the bed to know which way to go. This takes practice and experience so don't fret if you don't get it perfect the first 107 times.
  • You can use Fluidd or the printer screen to adjust z-offset while it's printing. Fluidd has finer adjustments.
  • The bed falling out of level/tram will also screw up the z-offset. If you find that your z-offset keeps changing, it's more likely that the bed is changing and you should rectify that first.
• Let the bed heat soak before printing. The Neptune 4 Plus has a medium size bed, but you might find that the first layer adhesion is better if you bring the bed up to temperature and let it sit for 3-5 minutes before printing. This lets the entire bed even out temperature wise. If you really want to get lost in the weeds, you can use a thermal imager to see what I mean. It's not a 4 Max, so 20-30 minutes is likely unnecessary, but as someone who used to always jump straight into printing in a house that's usually 60-65F, I found that it made a difference. What's a few more minutes of prep so save a much larger headache?
• If you touch the PEI sheet with your hands, clean it with dish soap, and thoroughly rinse and dry it before placing it back on the bed. The oil on your hands is enough to keep the filament from sticking. You'll find that after calibrating and setting z-offset, parts of your print may lift of the bed, or you end up with spaghetti simply because of this. Dish soap is meant to release these oils from the surface to allow rinsing with water.
• Be sure to check that you are using the correct printer profile, the correct nozzle size profile, and the correct filament profile before slicing.
• You may need to level your gantry, though chances are it's already level enough. Here's a method.
• Have fun printing!

Other things to know/remember

• Maybe this should be at the beginning of the article, but don't download GCode that isn't created for your printer and filament. Instead, download the model and slice it yourself.
• Don't leave your printer unattended before seeing that the first few layers are adhering and printing as expected.
• This printer has a pause feature. The default firmware config extrudes 100mm of plastic and "shakes" to knock off the filament poop when you resume. This allows you to change filaments. You can change the way this happens in the Klipper config file and there are posts about this.
• In Fluidd, there is a preview of the Gcode. You can click the file and choose to preview it. It will show you where you are in the print. If enabled in your slicer, you can exclude objects from the print by clicking the cancel sign, even in the middle of printing. This may sound useless but it's very powerful. If you're printing multiple objects at once and one starts to fail mid print, you can pause it (though you don't have to, but it's easier to clean the gunk of plastic on the extruder and clear any spaghetti) and exclude that object before continuing. It will continue printing the rest of the objects so you don't lose the entire print.
• The files listed in Fluidd > Jobs are actually stored in the printer memory. It does fill up. You can click the frame button there to expand the list and delete many at once. You can also change names and create folders.
• This printer is a bed slinger. With tall and top-heavy models, it also becomes a plastic slinger. Use supports and don't be afraid to use height modifiers or manual changes to decrease the speeds as you get higher. An extra few hours of print time is worth not having to restart a print that's too far gone.
• Nozzles can loosen with the vibration of the printer. If you start to notice excessive stringing, this could be a sign of a loose nozzle. It's also helpful to check it while it's hot every now and then (once a month?). It can help you avoid one of the many various causes of a blob of death.
• A 3D printer melts plastic at a very high temperature, for an extended period of time. Some people like to mount fire suppression balls over the printer so as to avoid burning down their home in the middle of the night.
• When a large print fails, it's not necessarily a complete loss. You can use the slicer to cut out the model part that already printed. Then clean up the failed print and glue the two parts together. If you're planning to sand and paint anyway, this is especially important to remember.
• Remember that screws, pom wheels, and belts become loose with time, especially in the beginning, so if you notice that it's starting to print poorly, don't forget to check these.
• You can use a heat gun to fix the stringing or your prints after the fact. The same gun can melt and deform the plastic, ruining your print. More importantly, it can also melt and deform you, ruining your modeling career. Be careful.
• The N4+ uses a longer nozzle than most, allowing it to print at higher speeds. You can purchase these (they are the same size used for the N4Max) at AliExpress. Elegoo also sells brass nozzles as of the time this is written, available on their store and through their Amazon store. At least in the U.S., they come to about USD $1 per nozzle, and it's a variety pack.
  • If you change the nozzle size, you'll need to recalibrate.
• The extruder rotation is likely already set correctly so you shouldn't have to adjust this, if you find anything that says otherwise.
• Popular opinion: You shouldn't need a gluestick with a textured PEI sheet and PLA. While glue is used to create a slightly porous (and therefore easier to adhere to) surface on smooth sheets, your textured PEI is already doing this. If your PLA isn't sticking, one of your settings is likely incorrect, usually the temperature of the extruder or the bed, the z-offset, the initial layer height, etc.. The gluestick can actually screw with your adhesion, so it's not worth the trouble most of the time.
  • In addition, PETG sticks extremely well. I find that when calibrated, the PETG releases quite well from the textured PEI sheet, provided the first layer isn't too close to the bed. However, some people use the gluestick to create a barrier between PETG and the textured PEI so that it releases more easily.
  • If you're going to use it, make sure it's a very thin layer (you may need to thin it out after putting it on), and let it dry before printing.
  • I should note that some people swear by it, but you should really try to get your printer working well without it so you don't need to worry about it.
• Unpopular, but justified opinion: Don't bother using isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on your PEI sheet. If what you have is over 90% (and it likely isn't if you bought it in the store), you can feel free to give it a shot, after wiping it and letting it dry completely. However, I have found that the lower percentages are variable in how many contaminants are in the bottle, even if they list pure water as the only other ingredient. So, some will work while others won't. IPA separates the fatty acid chains to make them easier to clean off, but many will still remain on the plate. Another argument people use is that it cleans the plastic off the plate. Most people print at home with PLA or PETG, and alcohol does not dissolve these, so therefore can't be used for this either. I have wasted countless hours trying to figure out why filament isn't adhering to a PEI sheet freshly cleaned with soap and water and then wiped with IPA. Then I just go clean off the residue from the IPA and it adheres quite nicely. If it works for you (and some bottles absolutely have for me), then go for it. However, you don't need to clean between every print anyway, so why not just clean every now and then with soap and water and leave it at that. A single failed print due to IPA is more than the time and energy put into cleaning it.

Again, this is not an all-inclusive list, and I'll likely add to it over time.

I know that I can use &[Tab] at the header settings for a specific tab's name to appear as the header when printing, and it has worked perfectly for one specific tab, but how can I make this automatically happen for every tab in my workbook, without having to go and fix the header each time?
In essence, how can I make the header for each tab automatically pull data from each tab's name?
I'm using Excel in desktop Windows, Microsoft 365 office professional plus 2019.
Thank you in advance!

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Hi, I'm still learning to play (Texas Hold'em, mainly) and decided to sit down and try to learn hand ranges.
After looking around about what a hand range is, I came across a hand range chart from Automatic Poker. I don't know if they are bad, good or great, but I was trying my first time with a "Range editor" and I can't really make sense of the "short hand" used by that website. First let me reproduce a table with the "pre-flop range chart" and then complain/make my question.

Pre-flop range chart

	Early position	Middle Position	Cut Off	Button	Small Blind	Big Blind
Open Raise	3x: 66,AJT,XQT	2.5x: 55,AT9,XJ9	2.5x: 22,A72,XT8	2x: 22,Ax,X76	2.5x: 22,Ax,X76	Isolate Limpers: 66,AJT,XQT
4-Bet	2.5x: KK+	2.5x: KK+	2.5x: QQ+,AK	2.5x: JJ+,AK	2.5x: JJ+,AK
Call 3-bet	JJ-QQ,AK	TT-QQ,AQ+	88-JJ,AQ	66-TT,AJT,XQJ	66-TT,AJT,XQJ
3-Bet		3x: KK+,T9s-87s	3x: KK+,T9s-87s	3x: KK+,T9s-87s	4x: KK+,T9s-87s	4x: KK+,T9s-87s
Resteal				3x: QQ,AK,A5s-A2s,T9s-87s	4x: QQ,AK,A5s-A2s,T9s-87s	4x: JJ,AKQ,A5s-A2s,T9s-87s
Call Raise		88-QQ,AQ+	77-QQ,AQ+	55-QQ,AQT,XQJ	88-QQ,AQ+	88-QQ,AQ
Call Steal				44-JJ,AJT,XQT	66-JJ,AT9,XQT	22-TT,AT,XJ9

And then, the author tries to clarify the shorthand coding for the hand ranges, clarification that I fail to understand for the most part:

To save space on the charts, I use a common hand range shorthand. It may take a bit to master, but once you do you will appreciate the simplicity.
Here are the guidelines:
- If applicable, pairs come first. You will either see a single pair, like 66 for example. This means 66+ and includes all pairs from 66 up to AA. If you see a range, like 88-JJ, that means 88, 99, TT, and JJ.
- If you see a single hand listed, it includes both suited and unsuited and all hands greater. For example, X9 is all non-pair hands where the kicker is at least a 9. This would include K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s+, T9s, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o+, and T9o+.
- XJT means all hands with an unsuited kicker Jack or better and all suited hands with a Ten kicker or better. So 55+, ATs+, ATo+, KTs+, KJo+, QTs+, QJo, JTs

I don't understand:

• the Xxx notation, why would 55+ enter the notation of XJT, 5 kicker isn't better than J nor T, what gives?
• The NMO notation, is any card N with kicker either M+ or O+? suited or off suited? why not just NO then? That means any card N with kicker O or better, but what do I know, right? I seriously don't understand that shorthand.
• What's up with ranges in bold? What I'm supposed to do different if my cards are in the range stylized in bold? Act bold?

Further clarification of each row usage is given, you can check the landing page for the charts to know more.
Please help me understand, I want to put the ranges in the editor and begin practicing but this short handing thing is a stumble block. Thank you!