Apft score card

Been in PUJ since early summer of 2023. I was hoping to get the Resy Platinum offer for higher end "foodie" excursions to Las Vegas and Napa Valley but alas, the dreaded PUJ prevented me from accepting the card. At the time, I was holding both the Gold and Aspire since '22. All grocery and dining out expenses were being put on the Gold. I had gotten the Aspire for a Hawaii trip during the winter, using it at luxury Hilton properties and virtually placing all spend from the trip on it. Afterwards, I assume my extremely low spending (<$100) on the Aspire in the beginning months of '23 didn't do me any favors in the eyes of Amex. But since the PUJ, I have placed a good amount of spend of around $1k to ~2k each month on both cards.
With the new current high of 175,000 points for the vanilla Platinum, I decided to recently try again and was approved for the SUB this month after using my spouse's link. I did not need to use incognito mode. I did experiment a bit regardless refreshing in and out of incognito mode and also got the 125k and 150k offers but the 175k offer still came up quite a few times in the few minutes of experimenting.
Credit score of ~780. Household income of $300,000.
Hope this datapoint helps some of you.

My grandfather has a rewards credit card that he helped me quote a $24k UTV down to $20k with his rewards points. He mentioned for me to receive the points (the UTV is in my name) I need to be added as an authorized user to his credit card.
We are paying lump sum cash, and so I do not believe this is a co-signer issue or anything risky. However, will being added as an authorized user to his credit impact my credit? I have no idea if his credit is in good standing. Even if it is - what if in five years he makes a mistake, will I be dragged down with him? If the limit on his card is $30k, will my credit check limit for my name also increase by $30k? (Say I have a $10k credit card + his $30k card as authorized user, do I now show banks I'm trusted with $40k in credit).
Are there any huge issues or flags to know about here? Or is this a circuitous way to steal his rewards points? The $4k markdown is obviously worth the hastle, so long as there are no long term impacts. I'm buying a house soon and do not want my credit score to tank bc of him.

Full disclosure, I don't know where to start and I don't know what information I should be sharing to be able to get some solid advice, so please forgive me any of this is irrelevant or if I leave out something important.
My Husband and I just found out we're expecting our first child in December. We had been trying and were super excited...but then last week I found out that the charter school network I work for has decided to reallocate grant funding. The program that I direct (which was supposed to be secure for the next 3 years) is ending. I'm being laid off in 6 weeks. No severance pay.
I have worked in my industry for 12 years and due to a recent merger I was grandfathered into a very high salary comparative to other organizations. For reference, I currently make $90k, but if I was to switch to the local public school district and do the exact same job, the posted salary range is $55k-$64k. So we're facing a huge cut no matter what. My husband makes $75k.
We got married in November of 2023 and both came with our own debt baggage- My husband's from a shitty divorce and mine from the death of a previous partner. We have $51k in credit card debt and $38k in loans (cars/student/personal). We are on very strict payment plans with our credit cards because we wanted to be out of debt as quickly as possible (non negotiable payment amounts until the middle of 2025). All of our loans end between October of 2024 and March of 2026. I thought since I had secure employment through 2027, we would be ok making those payments and getting pregnant, even if money was a little tight (I know this was a foolish assumption on my part). My credit score is 680, his is 630.
While we do have a lot of debt, we also have a lot of equity in our home. The mortgage is in my name, I currently owe $224k, it last appraised for $402k in 2020, though the current market trends put it around $388k according to my monthly homebot newsletter. My rate is just 2.65%. We live in Denver, the housing market is bonkers here. The only investment we have is my $58k retirement fund.
Before learning of the impended job loss, we wanted to sell the house, pay off the debt, and use the remaining $56kish on a down payment towards a larger home that would accommodate our growing family (goal was $500k). That seems impossible now with just my husband's income, even if he would be a first time home buyer.
I can't afford a financial advisor, so reddit, here I am. Where do I start? Refinance and add my husband to the mortgage? Heloc? Should my husband ask for a paycut so I can get on Colorado's version of medicaid for preggos? Sell and try to rent with my brother in law until we are back on our feet? Any ideas?
TL/DR:
Baby coming in December, losing my job in June, husband makes $75k, I will most likely end up making somewhere around $65k when I find a job, $89k in debt, about $164k in home equity (pre-fees) but the house is solely in my name. Now what?

Despite going in feeling good about my content knowledge on the 4/12 exam, I came out feeling kind of blindsided by how different it was from the FLs, with tons of specific Ochem and Biochem memorization-based questions and more convoluted CARS. P/S was more CARS-like too though I did alright on it.
I ended up getting just a few points shy of my best FL (515), but I wanted to retest because I felt like if I had known if would be that way, I would’ve studied differently.
My retest date is coming up and I just scored 520+ on FL3. I should be elated but instead Im WAY MORE ANXIOUS because Im afraid this is giving me false hope/expectations and the actual exam will be totally different.
Was 4/12 an anomaly or are all the recent exams wild cards? What should I last-minute cram? Is my anxiety justified? aAAAAAAH

I was thinking today, what would happen if a player who has been carded commits another bookable offence but advantage is given to the opposing team. This advantage fizzles out but before the ball goes out of play the original carded player goes on to score at the other end? Let’s say a minute or two has passed can the ref go back to the original fouls send off the offending player and continue the game from the free kick.

I recently made a large purchase and put some of it on a credit card. It took my credit usage from 20% to 50% and it dropped my score 70 pts.. I have the funds to pay off the card rn, but can I pay it off and dispute the score change? I just feel a bit frustrated. I’m ignorant when it comes to show credit works, so if someone can offer advice or educate me, I would appreciate it.

Hey everyone I just moved to the US and I'm trying to figure out the great game of "credit score". My wife is a US citizen and has a pretty decent credit score. She owes a Chase Credit Card. I'm on the card as well i.e. I have a card in my name (I've been on it, for at least the last 3 years). Now, currently I'm in the Greencard process but I already received authorization to work and a SSN. If I use Credit Karma to check my current credit score I get an error though.
I thought me being on my wife's credit card would already build up my score?
Long story short, I now applied for my own credit card at Capital One. I got "approved" but they're still processing my documents. Thanks for the help

I would like to share some tips that helped me do well on all my ATI exams! For reference, I got a level 3 on all but one ATI exam! Fundamentals was my first ATI exam ever which I got a 2, and it helped shaped the way I continued to study for ATI. I hope this helps anyone who is either struggling with ATI or wanting to increase their scores.

• This one is obvious, but ATI is your best resource. Start early. Utilize the book. It’s not a typical textbook so it is easier to get through compared to your average 2,000+ page textbook. If you start early and it’s not huge like the med-surg one, you can get through the majority of the chapters before test time. You do not have to read every word.

How I utilized ATI textbooks:

• For courses that required an ATI exam, I read the chapters that corresponded with the lectures - except med-surg… have you seen that thing? I relied on the Lewis Med Surg book that was required for our class because our Med-Surg 1 & 2 class HEAVILY tested on that book.
• I get highlighter happy at times, but I tried to limit myself to highlighting important things that would jump at me if I had to later refer back to a chapter. I highlighted drug names in green. I also highlighted measures/numbers/lab values and random facts that ATI likes to throw at you in. Like if you have a latex allergy, you can be allergic to strawberries kinda thing.
• Do the practice questions at the end of the chapters. If you don’t want to read the chapters, at least do the questions (usually only 5) to see if there are any gaps of knowledge. If you get something wrong, refer back to the book to read over that section.

Practice Exams/Dynamic Quizzes

• Plan to complete all dynamic quizzes for that subject. If you can only do ONE thing, complete all the quizzes. I can’t emphasize that enough. You hear it over and over again, but read to understand rationales, writing out the ones for unfamiliar topics or easily forgotten details. They will help in future ATI exams! The goal isn't to memorize practice questions, but to learn and understand. Refer to the book for content review when needed. If you know you have 400-1,000 questions to get through, start early. Mark the ones you get wrong or guessed correctly so you can review later and when your exam gets closer.
• Take Practice A & B exam and take it seriously. As tempting as it may be, do not google the answers. These exams give you an idea of areas you are struggling with. I recommend doing focused reviews because it takes you to the exact area where you missed the question. I would hand write the areas I missed.
• If you see the same thing over and over again during your quizzes and practice exams, pay attention. ATI is giving you hints on what you may see on the exam.

Extra Tips for ATI

• Be familiar with National Notifiable Conditions for those dreaded “which one do you report?” questions. You don’t have to memorize them — just know the main ones. There is a page in the Community ATI book with some of the main ones, but the CDC website is a quick reference. Bookmark it!
• Know antidotes, especially to common drugs.
• Know what you can delegate to UAPs and LPNs. In short, do not delegate what you can EAT (Evaluate, Assess, Teach). Remember, LPNs can only reassess after the RN has done the first assessment. This includes if a patient came back from surgery. The RN will assess and do vital signs if the patient has come back from surgery or is unstable, not the LPN and definitely not the UAP. Also, LPNs cannot do the initial teaching, but they can reinforce the teachings (example: self-administering insulin).
• Review frequently missed content because a lot of that stuff may be on your exam.

Outside resources

• The only resource outside of ATI I used are the LevelUpRN videos, which I am sure many of you already know about. Her playlists follow ATI closely enough without her getting sued again lol. If you can get your hands on her cards, that’s great but do not neglect the quizzes.

Test taking prioritization strategies you have to understand:

• Least invasive vs most invasive, acute vs chronic, unstable vs stable, expected findings vs unexpected findings (aka complications), & ABCs go without saying.
• Go through the NurseLogic 2.0 modules (under the learn tab) if you need help with prioritization. This is often what gets us the most but you’re always going to RUN to the patient who will die without intervention first. If you see a patient with stridor vs chest pain, who do you think is the priority? What about the patient with laryngeal edema or the stroke patient with hemiparesis? The patient with a sudden, severe headache or the patient with heart failure and 2+ edema? The asthmatic patient who stopped wheezing or the patient with chronic angina clutching their chest after walking?
• In a disaster situation (moreso for the community & leadership ATI exam), the patient who will die without intervention, but can survive with intervention is the priority (red tag). The patient who is dying (SCALP, not facial lacerations, fixed and dilated pupils) is the least of the priority (black tag) due to limited resources.

Other test taking strategies

• Go with what you know, but if you see 2 answer choices that are basically the same but worded differently, eliminate those. If you see 2 answer choices that are opposites, one of them may be the answer.
• When in doubt, avoid absolutes like “always, never, only, everyone” (unless it’s something accurate like ALWAYS practice hand hygiene lol but ATI usually doesn’t use absolutes like that)
• Look for keywords. Is the question asking what the nurse should do FIRST or what is the best nursing action?

It’s true that ATI will test you on things from other courses (some you haven’t taken yet), but the majority of it will be over the course you are studying for. The goal isn’t to get every question correctly. The goal is to use prior knowledge and test taking strategies to help you at least narrow down to 2 answer choices, and hopefully choose the right one. After doing a bunch of questions, you start to see patterns and understand how ATI wants you to choose the answer.
I know this is a lot, but I just wanted to be as thorough as possible. Please let me know if you have any questions! I am happy to help! 😊

I am currently about to enter in as a new grad software engineer in the NYC area and I am relatively new to the credit card journey. Following the credit card template for asking for recommendations:

• Current card: Citi Double Cash Back Card - $7,500 credit limit
• FICO Score: 760
• Oldest account age: 3 years (current one)
• Income: ~$9,000/month after taxes
• Average monthly spending:
  • Food: ~$100 (I barely go out and will probably eat out a lot less over the summer since I'll be back home from university)
    • I could also be underestimating the cost of food especially if I pay for all friends and they Venmo me back
  • Groceries: ~$400
  • Gas: ~$100
  • Transit: ~$250 (MTA + PATH 5 days a week)
  • Online Shopping: ~$100
  • Streaming Services: $0 (no streaming services used at all)
  • Phone Bill: ~$130 (for entire family)
  • Wholesale Clubs (Target and Walmart): ~$100
• I don't keep track of how much I exactly spend, but I know that I spend on restaurants, online shopping (technology, clothes, etc), shopping for clothes in person, groceries, transportation (mainly MTA, PATH, and sometimes Uber), travel (1-2 trips every year), and gas
• Open to Business Cards: No (might be a consideration later down)
• Purpose of my next card: Cash back and getting to the point where I can optimize for travel
• Cards I have been looking at: Amex Blue Card Preferred, Amex Blue Card Everyday, Chase Freedom Unlimited, Chase Freedom Flex, CapitalOne SavorOne
  • I do not want to go into the Citi ecosystem to be honest because I feel like other ecosystems are better
• Friends/Family have: CapitalOne SavorOne (maybe my friend could get referral money and split with me), Chase Freedom Unlimited (maybe my sister can get referral money and split with me)
• Category spending vs general spending: I do not mind category spending, but I do prefer general spending. However, based on my spending at the moment, it seems that

My main dilemma is that I would like to apply for two right now and I do not want to have too many credit cards in hand (unless having too many credit cards is a fine thing). Thank you for any help :)

I applied for a mission lane card which was a Credit Karma guarantee and it was approved. They gave me $1000 credit limit. I know this took some points off my credit score I just don’t know how many also I check my email from Equifax and I have a offer in there for an Apple card. It says that I can applyand it won’t hit my credit score I believe unless I actually go through with the application. My question is if I apply for a couple cards within a certain time window does it takeoff points for each application? Or does it only takeoff points for one inquiry or does it takeoff points for every inquiry no matter what the time of party is from applying for the last carD

I just have a question about the slumberland advantage credit card, I am looking to buy a couch and I’m interested in the 0% interest within 18 months. I’ve never signed up for a card like this and I can’t figure out where I can even use the card elsewhere, I’ve seen it vaguely described as a card you can use at furniture stores, etc. I am okay just using this card for the couch but I have been told that once they close the card I’ll get a ding on my credit anyway?
If it’s true how bad of a ding would it be if I had good standing in this line and it was paid off before it was closed?
Just looking for advice and see if anyone else has used this card. Thanks! I’m a 24 year old with not a lot of credit history but a decent score above 730, so I have great odds to get approved for the card anyway but I’m just naive when it comes to starting new lines of credit, etc.

I applied for a credit card, but I have a credit freeze in place. Does this still hurt my credit score?

• Current cards: (list cards, limits, opening date)
  • Discover IT, $9800, August 2020 (mine)
  • Capital One Savor One, $10,000, November 2022
  • Discover IT, not sure, not sure (paid off in full) (husband's)
• FICO Score: Mine is 641, husband is 688.
• Oldest account age: 4 years, 8 months
• Chase 5/24 status: 1/24
• Income: $70,000
• Average monthly spend and categories:
  • dining $800
  • groceries: $500
  • gas: $200
  • travel: $0
  • rent: $1375
  • bills: $250
  • pet costs: $100
  • misc: $400
  • TOTAL: About $3500 give or take in expenses
• Open to Business Cards: No
• What's the purpose of your next card? Balance Transfer
• Do you have any cards you've been looking at? e.g. Chase Freedom Unlimited
• Are you OK with category spending or do you want a general spending card? No, it's just for a balance transfer.

We (me and my husband) are looking to do a balance transfer for my capital one card. Our total credit card debt is almost exactly $20,000. We have already paid off about $3000 this year so far to get to $20,000. I am in law school, he is a nurse. Our tentative goal is to have our debt paid off by December 2025.
Our monthly budget is not very helpful as I will be working and earning $10,000 (pre-tax) over 8 weeks this summer, almost doubling our income for those 8 weeks. However, I need to set aside $2000 for summer tuition (externship course gets me 2 credits). I really wanted to set aside $600-800 for a new riding helmet and $500 for my club dues for the fall. I also am considering setting aside $1,000-2000 for the patent bar preparation course. So anywhere from $3-5k (after taxes) will go to credit cards.
My husband gets a $3000 bonus (pre tax) in December 2024.
$10,000 of our debt is actually on my father's credit card, he generously did a balance transfer for us with an open card he had. We are tentatively planning on paying him about $300-400 a month, but not sure. The other card is the Savor One. It began accruing interest in March or April so we need to do a balance transfer on that ASAP to avoid more interest. That has a balance of $9000.
I do not know how much I will make with my job next summer, but it will be at least as much as this summer, if not more.
All of that to say, we are trying to budget better with YNAB, but our budget is not consistent for the next couple months, so we are planning on getting that better set up in August.
So considering all this generally.... (1) what card should we get that will allow us to a balance transfer as close to 10k as possible, (2) how much should we pay towards credit cards a month to reach our goal of December 2025, (3) should we close our empty Discover accounts or leave them open and not use them, and (4) should I or my husband apply for the new card?
Thank you! Once I am out of law school, money is going to be a lot smaller of an issue, but my husband's car is getting close to 20 years old and we really want to have our credit card debt paid off before his car dies and we need to take on more debt for a car.

Hello all, I’ve been an observer on this community for a while and I feel better knowing I’m not alone but wow being in debt sucks. I’m 28 and I used to be so good at managing my money but I went through a rough breakup about 3 years ago and I spiraled down ever since. I started going out and partying more and going on vacations using my credit card.
I have 2 credit cards with Bank of America (cash rewards and travel rewards) and a target credit card which all adds up to about 20k or a little more. I make decent money now because I just got a new job a few months ago but most of my paycheck goes towards paying my credit card debt plus other bills too.
I’m contemplating between joining the hardship program through Bank of America or speaking with a financial advisor about taking out a loan to combine everything and only make 1 payment. I’ve seen mixed reviews about everything so far. I have a good credit score still. But at this point I’m willing to do anything to decrease the debt because I’m so miserable not being able to enjoy my paychecks anymore.
What’s the best step to take?

Are you eyeing that dream car or aiming for your own slice of real estate? Or perhaps you're just tired of being rejected for credit cards or loans due to a less-than-stellar credit score. Whatever your motivation, improving your credit score quickly is within reach with the right strategies. Here's how to give your credit score a rapid boost:

1. Check Your Credit Report: Start by obtaining a copy of your credit report from all three major credit bureaus - Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. Look for any errors or inaccuracies that could be dragging your score down. Dispute any discrepancies you find to ensure your report is accurate.
2. Pay Your Bills on Time: Your payment history makes up a significant portion of your credit score. Set up reminders or automatic payments to ensure you never miss a due date. Even one late payment can cause a dip in your score, so staying on top of your bills is crucial.
3. Reduce Your Credit Card Balances: Aim to keep your credit card balances below 30% of your available credit limit. High credit utilization can negatively impact your score. If possible, pay down your balances aggressively to improve your credit utilization ratio.
4. Become an Authorized User: If you have a family member or friend with a long and positive credit history, ask them to add you as an authorized user on their credit card account. Their responsible credit behavior can help boost your score, but make sure they have a good payment history and low credit utilization.
5. Apply for a Secured Credit Card: If you're struggling to qualify for a traditional credit card, consider applying for a secured credit card. These cards require a cash deposit as collateral, making them easier to obtain. Use the card responsibly by making small purchases and paying the balance in full each month to build positive credit history.
6. Diversify Your Credit Mix: Lenders like to see a mix of different types of credit accounts on your credit report, such as credit cards, installment loans, and a mortgage. If you only have one type of credit account, consider diversifying to potentially boost your score.
7. Keep Old Accounts Open: Closing old credit card accounts can shorten your credit history and negatively impact your score. Instead, keep those accounts open, even if you're not using them regularly. Just be sure to monitor them for any fraudulent activity.
8. Limit New Credit Inquiries: Each time you apply for credit, a hard inquiry is added to your credit report, which can temporarily lower your score. Limit the number of new credit applications you submit, especially if you're planning a major purchase in the near future.

For more>> How to boost your credit score fast
By following these steps diligently, you can see significant improvements in your credit score in a relatively short amount of time. Remember, building good credit takes patience and discipline, but the rewards are well worth the effort. Start today and pave the way to a brighter financial future.

We are struggling bad in this economy. Our credit card bill was extremely high, but we finally paid it off. And our credit score went DOWN. What the actual fuck. We are planning on renting at a new place and now we don’t meet the minimum credit score needed. I hate it here.

I decided to make a different thread to this statement apart from the previous post. I have a hard time explaining this and I wonder if anyone else shares my opinion or what I saw in that fight. First off, I am no boxing or tactic expert. My opinion is not based on statistical analysis or any standard card scoring analysis. I understand why most people would say he lost, based on the standard scoring system and statistics of the fight. However, I believe this is one of Canelo’s best fights if not the best fight based on one thing: observable swag. I cannot explain it, but I encourage anyone to see the fight again but this time only focus on Canelo’s movements, defense, and overall confidence. Did anyone see that? He was so loose, so confident, it seemed like the punches he received he chose them, and the ones he didn’t want he somehow blocked them. On the contrary GGG looked serious, like he was trying to figure out how to bring down Canelo’s morale. While Canelo was having fun. His footwork, his dancing, his defense, I know this does not count at the end in scoring, but I wonder if that’s why the result was a tie. Yes, GGG connected more, but Canelo in my opinion controlled the fight how he wanted it. The next fights Canelo got more serious, and didn’t fight the same again. I get chills seeing his movements in that fight.

I’m semi new to having a credit card and am in the process of purchasing a new vehicle. I read something the other day and it said we have 16 different types of scores? I did some further digging and my auto credit is lower than my general credit. I’ve never had a car loan or anything to that effect. Can someone explain as if you’re talking to a 2 year old? Thank you in advance!

Ok so to clarify, My hourly is 25 a hour at my job for 40 hours a week (no overtime allowed, Ive tried lol) and my APR for each card is around 24-27%. Which is about 48,000 a year.
This all started because I used my cards to support me, my ex girlfriend, her mom and her sister. when I was 18 and only getting payed 12 a hour, so i used my cards to cover all of our expenses (especially food).
Not in reference to the VS card, ik that was a stupid card choice now, i just wanted to get her a nice gift). IK blaming the past wont do anything now but still just to give context.
My credit score is at 554 and I need to be able to rent a apartment in august since my rents going up and Ive tried everything (i put around 1,000 to my cards every month) but ill get more then half of my payments taken back in interest esp if i only can pay the minimum.
Here are my expenses monthly
Rent: 500 Food: 150 Car note: 564 (2017 volkswagon tiguan) Gas: 120 Car insurance: 216 Phone bill: 164 Misc (soap, paper towels, etc.): 50
I dont go out if i cant (havent since august last year unles try not to spend anything on non essentials, but i feel like im making myself miserable at no benefit. My boyfriend has been trying to help me by lowering my half of rent and taking me out sometimes so i don’t feel like im stuck, but nothing helps. I’ve tried applying to personal loans but its just messed up my hard inquiries.
If anyone could make some more well informed suggestions then what Ive been doing id appreciate it 🙂‍↕️.
Capital one quick silver: 102% utilization $2,813
Sam's Club Plus Member Mastercard 110% credit card utilization $2,765
Amazon Prime Store Card 99% credit card utilization $1,496
Victoria's Secret Angel Card 76% credit card utilization $228
Capital One Platinum Secured Credit Card $152 76% credit card utilization
Target RedCard™ 47% credit card utilization $142
REGIONAL ACCEPTANCE (car) -5% paid off $22,152
Payment history • Excellent High impact 100%
Credit card usage • Needs work High impact 101%
Derogatory marks • Excellent High impact 0
Credit age • Needs work Medium impact 1 yr, 2 mos
Total accounts • Needs work Low impact 7
Hard inquiries Needs work Low impact 12

Game Name: Obey Me! Nightbringer Game Version: 2.0.4 Playstore: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nttsolmare.game.android.obeyme2 Author: Myself
MOD Features:

• VIP Mode enabled: Battle with Ruri-Chan, skip Akuber, have 24h job.
• Invincible: You won't lose HP when getting hit in the levels.
• Run game with developer mode enabled: Latest version requires developer to be disabled. It automatically bypasses it.
• Always can play ads to gain more AP (still limited to 5 per day).
• Change Cards Strength: Meaning we can score higher in level or skip the level. I recommend 500'000 which is a good middle ground.
• Soda Drink: "Battle Left" is always at 3, meaning we can farm one particular hard level, or event level, indefinitely (aka we can farm UR+ from extreme levels way more easily).
• Perfect Combo: You will always have the combo perfect finish in the end of the level.
• High Score In Levels: Sets a random score between 50 000 000 and 65 000 000 to easily have S and not getting flagged.
• Always Have Gifts in Surprise Guest: The Brothers will always give gifts whether or not you have good interactions. it still has a limit of 6 gifts per day

Infinite AP, grims, or other resources not mentioned cannot be "hacked", everything is checked on their servers.
If you have trouble login in with an error like: "Cannot use this version of the app", try to clean cache and force stop the app, it may take a few attempts, also try to just close the pop up, it is sometime enough. Also try to clear cache if it does crash for no reason.
Credits to: My horse named Cosette, which is the best Horse in the world.
Download: https://apkadmin.com/1mkfd3ahd9rg/Obey_Me_NB_2.0.4_NMM_signed.apk.html
VirusTotal Link: https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/ff30e73ddc93b32ab7f81ad0ee9878fce0ca9ed5ea37f21c317c0862b256f9c5/detection

Game Name: Obey Me! Nightbringer Game Version: 2.0.4 Playstore: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nttsolmare.game.android.obeyme2 Author: Myself
MOD Features:

• VIP Mode enabled: Battle with Ruri-Chan, skip Akuber, have 24h job.
• Invincible: You won't lose HP when getting hit in the levels.
• Run game with developer mode enabled: Latest version requires developer to be disabled. It automatically bypasses it.
• Always can play ads to gain more AP (still limited to 5 per day).
• Change Cards Strength: Meaning we can score higher in level or skip the level. I recommend 500'000 which is a good middle ground.
• Soda Drink: "Battle Left" is always at 3, meaning we can farm one particular hard level, or event level, indefinitely (aka we can farm UR+ from extreme levels way more easily).
• Perfect Combo: You will always have the combo perfect finish in the end of the level.
• High Score In Levels: Sets a random score between 50 000 000 and 65 000 000 to easily have S and not getting flagged.
• Always Have Gifts in Surprise Guest: The Brothers will always give gifts whether or not you have good interactions. it still has a limit of 6 gifts per day

Infinite AP, grims, or other resources not mentioned cannot be "hacked", everything is checked on their servers.
If you have trouble login in with an error like: "Cannot use this version of the app", try to clean cache and force stop the app, it may take a few attempts, also try to just close the pop up, it is sometime enough. Also try to clear cache if it does crash for no reason.
Credits to: My horse named Cosette, which is the best Horse in the world.
Download: https://apkadmin.com/1mkfd3ahd9rg/Obey_Me_NB_2.0.4_NMM_signed.apk.html
VirusTotal Link: https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/ff30e73ddc93b32ab7f81ad0ee9878fce0ca9ed5ea37f21c317c0862b256f9c5/detection