Ikea slipcover tutorial tullsta

My teen dripped an oily lip gloss from a tube on to the couch. The picture is 12 hours later after attempting to spot treat.
The slipcover is machine washable (IKEA).
Should I just throw it in the machine?

I was going to put up just the images of completed minis, but a tutorial was requested. First thought I'd like to point out that I have not completely followed the regular scheme, as I chose to give my Skitarii neither white markings nor trench robe lining - I prefer the simpler look. It could easily be adapted anyway, but consider I do a lot of this fairly quickly with no patience for box art schemes, which I have managed in the past, but found slow and boring. I also put the Enginseer in for fun (ignore the Alpha's arm changes - I magnetised for some better Kill Team options).
Swipe past the completed minis to find the WIP pictures. Bear in mine this can be done with fewedifferent colours anyway. When I mention cheap paint, it's Crawford and Black from The Works (UK). Black and white are particularly useful, as even when dry you can remove them pretty easily by rubbing with a wet brush, so it's OK if you make a mistake. I didn't glue the minis down until I was done painting the underside of their robes. Don't make the mistake I made of cutting and assembling your minis without using a file or sufficient lighting - though it did lead to the idea of the cloak damage...
Airbrush black - I use a mix of cheap black paint and Vellejo thinner - if you have a good black primer, use that.
Drybrush white - GW Praxeti White is a decent drybrush paint. Use downward stokes mostly using a large brush, then get a smaller brush to lightly do the more shady features like under the robes. You can leave some of this just black if it won't be seen anyway.
Gloss varnish - It toughens up the paint layer and leta the washes/contrast paints flow better. You dont need to donthis if you're careful.
Red robe start - Blood Angels Red contrast on cloak. It shiws the difference of the drybrushing - uou can thin it a litte and do it twice for a more even look.
Metal start - I use Basilicanum grey on darker metal, nuln oil on lighter metal. Keep in mind no metallic paint was used. It'll dull down the white, but edge highliting and shine spot come later.
Trousers - Black templar over the dryly rushed trousers, taking care to leave the ports.
Wood/Leather - Guilliman flesh in multiple layers, here, and I didn't do much in the way of highlights, since the drybrushing did most of that for me.
Seals - I used a mix of Drukhi Violet and BA red for the waxy bits. The papery bits were lightened up with a thin layer of white and then I used a tiny brush to do the black lines of text. Aggrax earthshade over the top.
Gold/Brass bits - I start with yellow wash, then Guilliman Flesh so it ends up a brown/yellow combination. White edges and points come late, bur on the bits that would catch the light you can gonover with white and put another layer of yellow (around the shouldechest trim.
More shading - Aggrax earthsade in most crevices and over most of the metal including yellow metal, as it gives it some depth but is still a little warmer than nuln oil - the base is red/orange, so brown makes a little more sense anyway.
Cloak edges - I used Fiery orange (25 year old paint, so I guess something equivalent nowadays) on cloak edges, mostlu using the brush edge. You can do the folds too, and if it looks too much, it can be fixed by muting it with thinned Blood Angels Red.
Cables - I like the yellow/black cables, so i used Casandora Yellow wash over the drybrushed cables, but where I wanted them lighter I painted on a little white first, keeping the shadow look. When it dried, I got out my cheap black paint ans started on mimicking the spiral black pattern. No idea if the black sections would meet correctly at the back, but it doesn't matter because it's not seen. With the cheap paint, it comes off running it with a wet brush.
Optics - I used nialakh oxide on eyes and optics and then a blue wash. The white shine comes later.
Glowing Blue Guns - Nialakh Oxide again, alsosome white in the bottom of the gaps on the plasma. In places I had to go back over the non-shiny bits with black/grey paint to make it clearer.
Small random details - I like Tesseract Glow on some details, BA red on some buttons etc.
Symbol - I used Black Templar on the black bits and the cheap white paint to go very the remaining bits to make them brighter. In some cases I used that white later on to do corner highlights on the black cog wheels.
Red thing highlights - You can get on with adding orange to some edges of some red things like buttons and such.
Cloak damage - i saw where there were inconsistencies in the surface, leading to pits and raiseses, so i strategically augmented them with lttle orange slashes and small black slashes through the middle. Where I went too think (and I couldn't easily remove the dry paint) I went over some of it with BA Red again, so it looks like double highlights in places (a small brush helps) to soften the transition.
Crevices - In some places, I added more black, just to add depth where there was grey or something else filling the crevice.
Start of white highlights - I started edge highlighing armour plates and then doing riny spots of white in any corner. I added a small dot to each of the buttons and optics, usually in the top left, and anything shiny, like rivets and masks, metallic bits and even pouches, ports etc.
NMM - I am no NMM expert, and thus far I have found it tedious to try, but I did add horizontal lines to the shoulder guards and pipes, and semi-random bits to some of the "metallic" sections. A bit of blending and blurring, next to more patches of black and dark grey (or brown for the gold/brass bits) seemed to help in some instances. I might go back and practice...
Yellow Metal - I gave some bits more effort using the yellow wash, guilliman flesh and aggrax to give it variation in the hope it didn't just look like yellow over white.
Ribbed pipes - The most frustrating part was gettinf litle white dots on the ribs of those pipes, occasionally having to wipe it all off and start again.
Decal - I used gloss varnish just in those spots at the hem of the robe, and in a few cases had to use decal softener (Vallejo). When it was dry I gave it a thinned layer of Aggrax Earthshade to bench it with the dirty look. In some cases I had to redo the orange and black slashes (using BA red again to soften the transition).
Base - I painted it an old brown, bur Mournfang Briwn works fine. When dry i layered it with matte varnish and put in a box I use to slosh a mixture - industrial sand mixed with Ochre pigment (Vallejo). I then cleared all the extra pigment and paint from the base's edges (using my thumbnail :) ), revealing unpainted black plastic. Use a large, clean brush to sweep away sand that is clinging to the minis legs - it doesn't make much difference with the pigment as the varnish stage sticks it to the paint, but the sand can look strange if varnished on.
Matte Layer - I use AK Interacrive Ultra Matte varnish. If you haven't tried this but you like the sort of dry, realistic look go for it. I guess some people would use normal matte, but I love the results I get. To me it seems more artistic somehow. You can varnish the unpainted black plastic of the base edge at this point.
More ochre/Sand - Since the varnish will have taken away much of the dry Martian Sand look, you can wait until its dry then hold the mini sideways and drop the sand/ochre mix over the legs and the bottom of the cloak. It won't be fixed there unless you varnish it again, but if you want to you can build up a few layers. I don't bother, because I figure if the loose, statically fixed ochre comes off I can just add more. Depending on how you store your minis, it might make a mess of it with ochre falling off. It's fine for pictures, but if you're going to handle them a lot thn make sure varnishing is the last thing you do.
Photos - Put a dark t-shirt on desk hanging over tall bottles for backdrop. Position posable light close (I have to temporarily remove a spring from the top section of my IKEA lamp to stop it flipping back up when I let go. I hold my phone against the edge of the desk with rhe lamp head above it, resting on the phone. Use pro mode with low ISO (50) and a fast shutter - I use an old Samsung Galaxy S10.
If any of you do use any of my suggestions, please ping me when you post them. I'm curious if anything of what I have said makes sense - let me know if clarification is needed.

These IKEA baskets are a classic, and I thought they'd make pretty wall shelves for plants! So easy to hang with picture hanger brackets. Here's the full tutorial on how I made these: https://thediymommy.com/make-a-gorgeous-diy-wall-plant-shelf-from-ikea-baskets/

Having a mare trying to paint some ikea drawers. I followed all the tutorials etc and even sanded between coats, this is the finish upon second coat. It’s awful. Any tips?? 🥲