Rc 260 motor specs
Looking to build an inventory spreadsheet with multiple sub categories.
2024.05.15 16:27 OxycontinEyedJoe Looking to build an inventory spreadsheet with multiple sub categories.
I have pretty minimal experience with spreadsheet programs to please tell me if this is the wrong tool for the job or overly ambitious.
My end goal is to have a simple spreadsheet that I can use to keep up with my inventory of electronics parts. I've seen some tutorials doing things that are very close to what I need, but nothing with multiple tiers or sub categories. I want to have a main database where I can enter my stock, apply the specific tags and categories, then be able to search or filter that database to see what I have available. For example I have a lot of FPV drone parts, as well as RC plane parts. If I'm looking for a motor for an RC plane, I don't want to also see the motors I have drones. I'd like to be able to filter first by rc planes, then filter those results by motors.
I've searched for examples using terms like tiered categories and sub categories, but haven't quite found an example that meets my requirements. Can anyone point me in the direction of what I'm looking for?
submitted by OxycontinEyedJoe to googlesheets [link] [comments]
My end goal is to have a simple spreadsheet that I can use to keep up with my inventory of electronics parts. I've seen some tutorials doing things that are very close to what I need, but nothing with multiple tiers or sub categories. I want to have a main database where I can enter my stock, apply the specific tags and categories, then be able to search or filter that database to see what I have available. For example I have a lot of FPV drone parts, as well as RC plane parts. If I'm looking for a motor for an RC plane, I don't want to also see the motors I have drones. I'd like to be able to filter first by rc planes, then filter those results by motors.
I've searched for examples using terms like tiered categories and sub categories, but haven't quite found an example that meets my requirements. Can anyone point me in the direction of what I'm looking for?
2024.05.15 16:11 Ok-Possible-7528 Bob Echo advice
Good day everyone, I’m heading up to Bon Echo for a weekend camping trip with the family at the end of this month and was wondering if anyone has any advice for fishing that lake this early in the season. I’ve camped there before in mid summer and caught a few bass drifting a red devil in 70ft deep+ water. I will most likely have access to a canoe with trolling motor and was hoping anyone can give me an idea on where to start. I’m going to be targeting walleyes mainly but I wouldn’t mind jigging for lakers if the opportunity is there. I’ve had plenty of success jigging them this early in the year in less than 100 feet of water just never at Mazinaw.
I’m also thinking of taking the little ones to try the creek for some specs because the water level should still be high enough. Thanks in advance for any help
submitted by Ok-Possible-7528 to FishingOntario [link] [comments]
I’m also thinking of taking the little ones to try the creek for some specs because the water level should still be high enough. Thanks in advance for any help
2024.05.15 15:19 MattGarcia9480 Speed? Torque? Amps? Watts? Magnet size? What determines what some of these hub drive motors power handling capability are?
 | As titled. I'm confused on what determines these motors amperage and wattage capabilities. I have a yume y11+ motor labeled 60v 3000w. I have a vsett 10+ motor labeled 60v50h1400w. I used a "48v 1000 watt" motor. And I also used a ninebot max g30 gen 2 motor. The 48v labeled motor was nothing more than what I swear a 350 motor is as it's speed and acceleration was trash and it started overhearing fast. Ninebot max motor was a beast for what it was and way way more capable than the 1000watts labeled motor was. The vsett 10+ motor I have really doesn't get warm running 1400 watts continuous and I've been making some 6000 watt rips and it doesn't gaf, I just don't stay on it for a long time, also because it's going over 60mph fairly quick and I get scared, it's a ninebot max g30 lol. And for the yume motors it's dual motor scooter labeled 60v 3000watt. I can cruise top speed full throttle for miles on end and all you can tell is the motor has ran, but barely above ambient temps. I'm trying to spec in my head a motor for 125mm dropout that has really good torque and maybe 45mph top speed.... but I wanna be able to do a wheelie without trying like the yume 11" motor does to that big ass scooter. submitted by MattGarcia9480 to ElectricScooters [link] [comments] |
2024.05.15 09:37 Teefy91 Replacement cable
Hey, I'm looking at repairing my Hero S8 scooter and hoping to get some help with the part that needs to be replaced. Their website is no longer around so looks like I'll need to source the replacement from somewhere else.
As far as can tell it's the cable that the motor connects to which runs to the controller. I'm wanting to resell it so want to make sure I don't get the wrong part.
The battery is a 48v 21ah. Does anyone with a bit of experience opening these up know exactly what the cable is called and what specs I need to be on the look out for?
submitted by Teefy91 to ElectricScooters [link] [comments]
As far as can tell it's the cable that the motor connects to which runs to the controller. I'm wanting to resell it so want to make sure I don't get the wrong part.
The battery is a 48v 21ah. Does anyone with a bit of experience opening these up know exactly what the cable is called and what specs I need to be on the look out for?
2024.05.15 09:09 ShoeGod420 Go0dbye GT Aggressor Pro, Hello Poseidon Norton!!!
 | The GT Aggressor Pro was good to me for 4yrs but it was time for an upgrade with updated geometry thru-axles and a tapered headtube. Technically the Poseidon Norton is still a budget bike considering it's the least expensive new frame you can buy (originally $399 but on sale for $299) also even though I had to buy same new parts I also got them on sale (Rockshox Domain RC 160mm originally $587 on sale for $260 and actually less expensive then what i paid for my straight steerer QR 120mm Rockshox Recon RL. Wheels are originally around $140 each but I got them both off ebay brand new for $90 each) Overall I love the new bike, except I'm kind of hating the look of that 200mm Hope orange rotor but it's the only 200mm floating rotor I could get delivered fast. submitted by ShoeGod420 to Budgetbikeriders [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/wmab2xlrhj0d1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87cc1f1d0a126dbaf04eac83099ff5419b1baba0 https://preview.redd.it/570gjxlrhj0d1.jpg?width=4896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=86b16cfe4ef383d64aadb38abf739d04e1504834 https://preview.redd.it/mu5kmxlrhj0d1.jpg?width=4896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a57d18ada20ad278aa9303acd86719a46284f39 https://preview.redd.it/vobtzylrhj0d1.jpg?width=2754&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00ab2ff92962f1f66b1f223ae068946ad8d03ac2 |
2024.05.15 07:20 whiplash-willie Autel and 3.6 Pentastar Cam Data
TLDR: Trying to figure out which scan tool from Autel or others can show cam desired versus actual on 3.6 Pentastar.
Following up on some major seevice work at 171k miles on 2014 Wrangler 3.6 / auto and need some advice please:
Changed plugs, coils, injectors, oil cooler (dorman aluminum version) timing set (Melling) and cam phasers with new control valves (Standard Motor Products).
I don’t do this for a living but am definitely on the serious side of amateur / hobbiest. I’ve probably rebuilt to spec several dozen engines ranging from 1970’s Jaguars through FJ40’s lots of GM products in 4,6,8 cylinders, light truck and commercial diesels and powerstroke Diesels. I’ve never had a failure to start, run, or last. I have and followed factory service manual for the JK Jeep. I should have been able to do this!
Startup was rough but after a few attempts at cranking she bled the injectors and fired right up. Idles smoothly. Oil pressure 91-95 PSI cold and 25-30 hot at idle. Battery and alternator voltage good (don’t recall exact value). Within a 1/4 mile I was in limp mode with traction control and check wngine lights on. All of the codes are P000a-d. “Camshaft Slow Response”. Engine runs smooth through 5000+ rpm, but shifts are limited to 4th gear. So I drive to work 18 miles each way. Next day the lights go off and everything is golden. After 3-4 restarts, limp mode is back and wont go away!
Factory service manual says oil change, then replace pcm. Nope, not at those $$. I want to know what is wrong! So I do a bit of parts cannon…. New cam position sensors, although the fault seems to be on all 4 randomly. JSCAN only says “at least one fault has been counted in this position recently”. New crank position sensor. New cam VVT Solenoids. No Changes.
Then I start tracing grounds from the solenoids and get some intermittent high resistance. Ive had weird groundingg problems before, and I realized that my battery cable terminal negative side isnt clamping well. I can lift it off the post. The harness is generally crunchy and shitty from 10 years in desert heat, so I decided to re-do them.
Pulled the entire wiring harness off the engine and yanked the battery cables out. Replaced them with 2awg and bolt-down terminals. Continuity checked every ground terminal pin to pin. No fails. Same on the power side.
Fun side note, the 2014 Factory Wiring diagram has a major typo in showing incorrect ground terminal locations!
So, put that all back, pulled valve covers again, checked timing marks against youtube. It all seems right. I did not pull the timing cover again. I did clean the bits of metal powder off the camshaft tone rings with paper towel and brake clean. Restart engine. Starts instantly. Cam rattle for about 1 second, perfectly smooth idle. Same codes within 45 seconds.
So, i need a scan tool. Factory service manual says to check desired versus actual cam and crank positions. My old scan tool was PC based AutoEnginuity, but I hate the PC aspect and the subscription lapsed about 8 years ago. So im looking at Autel, but overwhelmed by all the options with very little info.
Can anyone tell me what level of Autel can show that live position versus desired position? Should I look elsewhere?
Mechanically, can you tell me if it is possible to overtorque an oil control valve? I keep wondering if the cam phasers could be dragging because they might be too tight? But if you grab the cam with a wrench, it moves easily and moves the phaser, so the lock pins are seated.
Cost isn’t a huge concern, especially if I can find a tool with longevity, but I cant use it for work, so it wont pay back / trying to avoid the Snap-off-in-you van. I can go a long way into trying to squeeze another 150k miles out of this rig before I lay down for a new Jeep at $75k plus!
Thank you for any and all advice and ideas. Brainstorming will help and I’m grateful for it.
submitted by whiplash-willie to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Following up on some major seevice work at 171k miles on 2014 Wrangler 3.6 / auto and need some advice please:
Changed plugs, coils, injectors, oil cooler (dorman aluminum version) timing set (Melling) and cam phasers with new control valves (Standard Motor Products).
I don’t do this for a living but am definitely on the serious side of amateur / hobbiest. I’ve probably rebuilt to spec several dozen engines ranging from 1970’s Jaguars through FJ40’s lots of GM products in 4,6,8 cylinders, light truck and commercial diesels and powerstroke Diesels. I’ve never had a failure to start, run, or last. I have and followed factory service manual for the JK Jeep. I should have been able to do this!
Startup was rough but after a few attempts at cranking she bled the injectors and fired right up. Idles smoothly. Oil pressure 91-95 PSI cold and 25-30 hot at idle. Battery and alternator voltage good (don’t recall exact value). Within a 1/4 mile I was in limp mode with traction control and check wngine lights on. All of the codes are P000a-d. “Camshaft Slow Response”. Engine runs smooth through 5000+ rpm, but shifts are limited to 4th gear. So I drive to work 18 miles each way. Next day the lights go off and everything is golden. After 3-4 restarts, limp mode is back and wont go away!
Factory service manual says oil change, then replace pcm. Nope, not at those $$. I want to know what is wrong! So I do a bit of parts cannon…. New cam position sensors, although the fault seems to be on all 4 randomly. JSCAN only says “at least one fault has been counted in this position recently”. New crank position sensor. New cam VVT Solenoids. No Changes.
Then I start tracing grounds from the solenoids and get some intermittent high resistance. Ive had weird groundingg problems before, and I realized that my battery cable terminal negative side isnt clamping well. I can lift it off the post. The harness is generally crunchy and shitty from 10 years in desert heat, so I decided to re-do them.
Pulled the entire wiring harness off the engine and yanked the battery cables out. Replaced them with 2awg and bolt-down terminals. Continuity checked every ground terminal pin to pin. No fails. Same on the power side.
Fun side note, the 2014 Factory Wiring diagram has a major typo in showing incorrect ground terminal locations!
So, put that all back, pulled valve covers again, checked timing marks against youtube. It all seems right. I did not pull the timing cover again. I did clean the bits of metal powder off the camshaft tone rings with paper towel and brake clean. Restart engine. Starts instantly. Cam rattle for about 1 second, perfectly smooth idle. Same codes within 45 seconds.
So, i need a scan tool. Factory service manual says to check desired versus actual cam and crank positions. My old scan tool was PC based AutoEnginuity, but I hate the PC aspect and the subscription lapsed about 8 years ago. So im looking at Autel, but overwhelmed by all the options with very little info.
Can anyone tell me what level of Autel can show that live position versus desired position? Should I look elsewhere?
Mechanically, can you tell me if it is possible to overtorque an oil control valve? I keep wondering if the cam phasers could be dragging because they might be too tight? But if you grab the cam with a wrench, it moves easily and moves the phaser, so the lock pins are seated.
Cost isn’t a huge concern, especially if I can find a tool with longevity, but I cant use it for work, so it wont pay back / trying to avoid the Snap-off-in-you van. I can go a long way into trying to squeeze another 150k miles out of this rig before I lay down for a new Jeep at $75k plus!
Thank you for any and all advice and ideas. Brainstorming will help and I’m grateful for it.
2024.05.15 06:05 Spartan-463 Help Fixing the Jeep (but mini)
Hello, I'm hoping this is the right place to go. I was given a rc /drivable mini jeep from family to give to my best friend's child but need to get it cleaned up and working. Unfortunately when I select on either the remote or pedal inside to "go" it whines then clicks. If a start to push it I can feel it pull away for half a second before cutting out. I've never worked with electric motors before just the electronics on my Jeep. Would this be all the motors dead (it has a few) or something else cutting power. Thanks for any assistance you can provide. Oh and it does have a brand new battery. Thank you power wheel experts
submitted by Spartan-463 to PowerWheelsMods [link] [comments]
2024.05.15 03:41 LucidNight [WTS] Rattlers, mint errors, franklins, proof cameo trickle (mintage 1150), accented hair Kennedy's, bunch of other slabs, older proof sets, Morgan toners
Bit of different things, open to reasonable offers if looking at buying multiple items. Imgur is hating me right now, if you want any more pics or videos chat me.
Proof
Newer stuff
1938 PR64 Proof Dime, some red/rainbow toning on rim - 220
1958 D MS66 PCGS Franklin Half Rainbow Obv - 80
1881 S MS64 NGC Morgan nice blue album Toner - 150
1954 D MS64FBL Franklin - 50
1953 S MS65 PCGS Franklin in a rattler - 85
1887 MS64 PCGS Morgan rainbow crescent toner in an OGH - 150
1943 D MS66FB PCGS Mercury dime in a rattler -130
1890 MS64 NGC Morgan better date - 165
1938 d MS65 PCGS Buffalo nickel in a rattler - 90
2000 MS66RD NGC Lincoln Broadstruck with obverse indent - 130 (crack on right of slab, lowered price)
1916 MS64 CACG Type 1 Buffalo - 155
Slabbed stuffs
1876 PCGS PR63Cam Three Cent Nickel only 1150 minted - 450
1948 MS66FBL PCGS CAC Franklin - 400
1879 S PCGS MS62 Morgan - 75
1887 MS65 Gem NGC Morgan Neon blue album with some rainbow toner - 275
1881 S MS65 Gem NGC Old Fatty Morgan Rainbow toner - 325
1882 S MS63 NGC Morgan toner - 145
1884 o MS64 PCGS Morgan dual sided toner - 275
1913 Type 1 NGC MS63 Buffalo - 85
1938 D PCGS MS65 Buffalo - 60
1958 D MS65 PCGS Franklin- 35
1963 D MS65 PCGS Franklin- 40
1878 7TF Rev 78 MS63 NGC Morgan - 230
1878 7/8TF Weak MS63 PCGS Morgan - 260
1954 S MS66 PCGS Washington - 30
Rattlers
1885 O MS64 Morgan - 140
1884 O MS64 Morgan - 140
1900 MS64 PCGS Morgan - 140
1881 S MS64 Morgan PL obv fields - 150
1881 S MS64 Morgan semipl obv fields- 145
Proof sets
1956 in white capital holder cameo obv quarter - 65
1964 Accented Hair Kennedy in aftermarket display - 75
1964 Accented Hair Kennedy in original mint packaging missing blank cardboard - 60
1956 Type 1 Franklin Proof set in black captial holder rainbow rim toning on a few coins - 205
1956 in red captial holder cam/dcam dime - 65
More proof sets
1956 in Whitman Holder - 60
1956 in unique holder - 70
1959 in blue Capital Holder (59 coins but case says 63) - 45
1959 in blue capital with minor rainbow tone on franklin - 45
1964 Sealed in original mint envelop x3 - 35
PPFF, Zelle, Venmo
Ship lower 48 at 6 + 1 for each additional, additional insurance at cost
submitted by LucidNight to CoinSales [link] [comments]
Proof
Newer stuff
1938 PR64 Proof Dime, some red/rainbow toning on rim - 220
1958 D MS66 PCGS Franklin Half Rainbow Obv - 80
1881 S MS64 NGC Morgan nice blue album Toner - 150
1954 D MS64FBL Franklin - 50
1953 S MS65 PCGS Franklin in a rattler - 85
1887 MS64 PCGS Morgan rainbow crescent toner in an OGH - 150
1943 D MS66FB PCGS Mercury dime in a rattler -130
1890 MS64 NGC Morgan better date - 165
1938 d MS65 PCGS Buffalo nickel in a rattler - 90
2000 MS66RD NGC Lincoln Broadstruck with obverse indent - 130 (crack on right of slab, lowered price)
1916 MS64 CACG Type 1 Buffalo - 155
Slabbed stuffs
1876 PCGS PR63Cam Three Cent Nickel only 1150 minted - 450
1948 MS66FBL PCGS CAC Franklin - 400
1879 S PCGS MS62 Morgan - 75
1887 MS65 Gem NGC Morgan Neon blue album with some rainbow toner - 275
1881 S MS65 Gem NGC Old Fatty Morgan Rainbow toner - 325
1882 S MS63 NGC Morgan toner - 145
1884 o MS64 PCGS Morgan dual sided toner - 275
1913 Type 1 NGC MS63 Buffalo - 85
1938 D PCGS MS65 Buffalo - 60
1958 D MS65 PCGS Franklin- 35
1963 D MS65 PCGS Franklin- 40
1878 7TF Rev 78 MS63 NGC Morgan - 230
1878 7/8TF Weak MS63 PCGS Morgan - 260
1954 S MS66 PCGS Washington - 30
Rattlers
1885 O MS64 Morgan - 140
1884 O MS64 Morgan - 140
1900 MS64 PCGS Morgan - 140
1881 S MS64 Morgan PL obv fields - 150
1881 S MS64 Morgan semipl obv fields- 145
Proof sets
1956 in white capital holder cameo obv quarter - 65
1964 Accented Hair Kennedy in aftermarket display - 75
1964 Accented Hair Kennedy in original mint packaging missing blank cardboard - 60
1956 Type 1 Franklin Proof set in black captial holder rainbow rim toning on a few coins - 205
1956 in red captial holder cam/dcam dime - 65
More proof sets
1956 in Whitman Holder - 60
1956 in unique holder - 70
1959 in blue Capital Holder (59 coins but case says 63) - 45
1959 in blue capital with minor rainbow tone on franklin - 45
1964 Sealed in original mint envelop x3 - 35
PPFF, Zelle, Venmo
Ship lower 48 at 6 + 1 for each additional, additional insurance at cost
2024.05.15 00:01 Freeman_Alex [WTS] ⚜️⚜️⚜️Freeman Shipyard Store vol.4⚜️⚜️⚜️ OC LTI Pulse/LX +Dominion Paint $25 ⚜️Prowler to Hull D CCU $45 ⚜️Hull D to Orion CCU $50 ⚜️CHEAP WARBOND CCU ⚜️QuickSALE ⚜️Open24/7 ⚜️Good Prices&Trade History ⚜️Original LTI Concepts ⚜️Subscribers Exclusive Items ⚜️Rare Paints ⚜️JUST WRITE ME
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| SHIP | TARGET SHIP | < | Upgrade from | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 400I | ||||
| 400I | < | CONSTELLATION ANDROMEDA | $15 | |
| 600I EXPLORER | ||||
| 600I EXPLORER | < | PROWLER | $70 | |
| ARGO MOLE | ||||
| ARGO MOLE | < | CONSTELLATION AQUILA | $7 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | MERCURY STAR RUNNER | $59 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | VANGUARD WARDEN | $59 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | RETALIATOR BOMBER | $43 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | VANGUARD SENTINEL | $43 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | APOLLO MEDIVAC | $43 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | ESPERIA VANDUUL BLADE | $43 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | VANGUARD HARBINGER | $27 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | REDEEMER | $70 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | HULL C | $70 | |
| ARGO MOLE | < | APOLLO TRIAGE | $70 | |
| ARROW | ||||
| ARROW | < | AURORA MR | $50 | |
| ARROW | < | MUSTANG ALPHA | $50 | |
| ARROW | < | C8X PISCES EXPEDITION | $35 | |
| ARROW | < | 100i | $30 | |
| ARROW | < | AVENGER TITAN | $25 | |
| ARROW | < | RELIANT KORE | $15 | |
| CATERPILLAR BEST IN SHOW EDITION | ||||
| CATERPILLAR BISE | < | VANGUARD HARBINGER | $100 | |
| CORSAIR | ||||
| CORSAIR | < | TAURUS | $60 | |
| CRUCIBLE | ||||
| CRUCIBLE | < | STARFARER GEMINI | $21 | |
| CUTLASS BLACK BEST IN SHOW EDITION | ||||
| CUTLASS BLACK BISE | < | GLADIUS | $70 | |
| CUTLASS RED Subscriber | ||||
| CUTLASS RED Subscriber | < | F7C-S HORNET GHOST | $25 | |
| CUTLASS BLUE | ||||
| CUTLASS BLUE | < | PROSPECTOR | $30 | |
| DEFENDER | ||||
| DEFENDER | < | CORSAIR | $15 | |
| DEFENDER | < | HORNET F7C-M HEARTSEEKER | $37 | |
| GLADIUS | ||||
| GLADIUS | < | AURORA MR | $65 | |
| GLADIUS | < | MUSTANG ALPHA | $65 | |
| GLADIUS | < | C8X PISCES EXPEDITION | $50 | |
| GLADIUS | < | 100i | $45 | |
| GLADIUS | < | AVENGER TITAN | $40 | |
| GLADIUS | < | RELIANT KORE | $30 | |
| GLADIUS | < | ARROW | $20 | |
| HAMMERHEAD | ||||
| HAMMERHEAD | < | CARRACK | $150 | |
| HAMMERHEAD | < | CARRACK EXPEDITION W/C8X | $100 | |
| HULL C | ||||
| HULL C | < | CATERPILLAR | $175 | |
| MERCHANTMAN | ||||
| MERCHANTMAN | < | STARFARER GEMINI | $300 | |
| MERCHANTMAN | < | ARGO MOLE | $345 | |
| NAUTILUS | ||||
| NAUTILUS | < | CARRACK | $175 | |
| PERSEUS | ||||
| PERSEUS | < | CARRACK Expedition W/C8X | $40 | |
| PERSEUS | < | CARRACK | $90 | |
| PERSEUS | < | ORION | $115 | |
| PERSEUS | < | 600I EXPLORER | $220 | |
| PERSEUS | < | MERCHANTMAN | $248 | |
| PERSEUS | < | ARGO MOLE | $380 | |
| PERSEUS | < | ANDROMEDA | $485 | |
| POLARIS | ||||
| POLARIS | < | PERSEUS | $70 | |
| POLARIS | < | HAMMERHEAD | $70 | |
| POLARIS | < | NAUTILUS | $60 | |
| POLARIS | < | CARRACK | $250 | |
| RECLAIMER BIS 2949 | ||||
| RECLAIMER BIS 2949 | < | VALKYRIE | $300 | |
| SAN'TOK.YĀI | ||||
| SAN'TOK.YĀI | < | HORNET F7C-M HEARTSEEKER | $37 |
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⛵CLICK HERE TO PLACE AN ORDER ⛵
2024.05.14 22:29 dadbald Parts to have on-hand for TRX-4
Hi all - I'm excited to say I'm picking up my first crawler and first ever RC later this week! I decided on a TRX-4 2021 Bronco. My local shop has it on order, should be in around Thursday.
My question is: when I'm at the shop to pick it up, are there any other parts you'd recommend I get while I'm there to have on-hand? I'll probably wait on the servo and motor until they die. I'm thinking a pinion gear to slow it down a bit (have a 3s battery), maybe a front and rear portal input gear (heard they can strip easy). Anything else? Planning a camping trip in a couple/few weeks and would be nice to have some basic replacements ready to go if any are anticipated to be needed.
I already have a 3s battery, charger, bluetooth link chip for the transmitter, and some basic tools from MIP (1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm hex drivers). Thanks for any thoughts!
submitted by dadbald to crawling [link] [comments]
My question is: when I'm at the shop to pick it up, are there any other parts you'd recommend I get while I'm there to have on-hand? I'll probably wait on the servo and motor until they die. I'm thinking a pinion gear to slow it down a bit (have a 3s battery), maybe a front and rear portal input gear (heard they can strip easy). Anything else? Planning a camping trip in a couple/few weeks and would be nice to have some basic replacements ready to go if any are anticipated to be needed.
I already have a 3s battery, charger, bluetooth link chip for the transmitter, and some basic tools from MIP (1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm hex drivers). Thanks for any thoughts!
2024.05.14 22:07 tears0fpiss Lease deals
Rivian has some great lease deals going on right now for the R1S w/ quad motor and large battery. We aren't in a huge hurry to get one, so I wanted to find out what you guys think... Are these deals on their way out? Anticipating better deals in the next few months? Not super picky about the rest of the specs, but there seems to be a relatively limited selection of vehicles currently available (per my search of many zip codes in the Western US)
I know none of us can predict the future, but I figured I might as well check with the community before pulling the trigger. Cheers!
submitted by tears0fpiss to Rivian [link] [comments]
I know none of us can predict the future, but I figured I might as well check with the community before pulling the trigger. Cheers!
2024.05.14 21:50 Mulicus753 Motor
 | Is there a way for me to fit this big motor on my sleeper build RC car? (Other motor shown as example) and or is there a smaller motor just as powerful as this 540?? Let me know submitted by Mulicus753 to rccars [link] [comments] |
2024.05.14 21:28 Downtown-Let5871 Are Xing 2's suitable for a small/medium sized single motor rc airplane?
Or are the just for drones?
submitted by Downtown-Let5871 to RCPlanes [link] [comments]
2024.05.14 21:19 SirDoAlot [WTS]»»The Fleet Facto®y«« Hurricane LTI $179, Mercury Star Runner LTI $195, Retaliator Bomber LTI $219, Reclaimer LTI $279, 600i Explorer LTI BIS 2953 $315, Carrack LTI $355, Odyssey LTI $379 and more + upgrades and paints. Have a look!
Welcome to The Fleet Facto®y!
Est. 2946Standalone Ships:
| Type | Name | Melt value | Upgrade value | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CCU'd | Vulture LTI | $120 | $175 | $149 |
| CCU'd | Vulture LTI BIS 2953 | $125 | $175 | $165 |
| CCU'd | Zeus MKII MR LTI | $135 | $190 | $174 |
| CCU'd | Constellation Taurus LTI | $135 | $200 | $179 |
| CCU'd | Vulcan LTI | $145 | $200 | $179 |
| CCU'd | Hurricane LTI | $130 | $210 | $179 |
| CCU'd | Terrapin LTI | $155 | $220 | $194 |
| CCU'd | Railen LTI | $160 | $225 | $199 |
| CCU'd | Constellation Andromeda LTI | $155 | $240 | $189 |
| CCU'd | Scorpius LTI | $140 | $240 | $189 |
| CCU'd | Corsair LTI | $165 | $250 | $199 |
| CCU'd | Corsair LTI BIS 2953 | $165 | $250 | $215 |
| CCU'd | 400i LTI | $165 | $250 | $199 |
| CCU'd | Ares Inferno LTI | $140 | $250 | $199 |
| CCU'd | Ares Ion LTI | $140 | $250 | $199 |
| CCU'd | Mercury Star Runner LTI | $155 | $260 | $195 |
| CCU'd | Vanguard Warden LTI | $155 | $260 | $209 |
| CCU'd | Vanguard Sentinel LTI | $160 | $275 | $219 |
| CCU'd | Retaliator Bomber LTI | $160 | $275 | $219 |
| CCU'd | Apollo Medivac LTI | $160 | $275 | $219 |
| CCU'd | Vanguard Harbinger LTI | $175 | $290 | $225 |
| CCU'd | Eclipse LTI | $170 | $300 | $225 |
| CCU'd | Constellation Aquila LTI | $210 | $315 | $239 |
| CCU'd | Mole LTI | $210 | $315 | $239 |
| CCU'd | Redeemer LTI BIS 2953 | $205 | $325 | $245 |
| CCU'd | Caterpillar LTI | $195 | $330 | $239 |
| CCU'd | Starfarer Gemini LTI | $210 | $340 | $244 |
| CCU'd | Crucible LTI | $220 | $350 | $255 |
| CCU'd | Endeavor LTI | $220 | $350 | $255 |
| CCU'd | Glaive LTI | $220 | $350 | $295 |
| CCU'd | Valkyrie LTI | $220 | $375 | $259 |
| CCU'd | Galaxy LTI | $225 | $380 | $264 |
| CCU'd | Reclaimer LTI | $245 | $400 | $279 |
| CCU'd | C2 Hercules LTI | $245 | $400 | $289 |
| CCU'd | Prowler LTI | $255 | $440 | $299 |
| CCU'd | 600i Explorer LTI BIS 2953 | $260 | $475 | $315 |
| CCU'd | Hull C LTI | $265 | $500 | $325 |
| CCU'd | M2 Hercules LTI | $285 | $520 | $335 |
| CCU'd | Hull D LTI | $270 | $550 | $339 |
| CCU'd | Liberator LTI | $300 | $575 | $359 |
| CCU'd | Arrastra LTI | $290 | $575 | $349 |
| CCU'd | Carrack LTI | $280 | $600 | $355 |
| CCU'd | Orion LTI | $290 | $600 | $359 |
| CCU'd | Merchantman LTI | $280 | $650 | $359 |
| CCU'd | Perseus LTI | $300 | $675 | $369 |
| CCU'd | Odyssey LTI | $325 | $675 | $379 |
| CCU'd | Hammerhead | $300 | $725 | $369 |
| CCU'd | A2 Hercules LTI | $300 | $750 | $374 |
| CCU'd | Polaris LTI | $330 | $750 | $389 |
| Type | Name | Upgrade value | Price | Quantity |
|---|
Ship and Vehicle Upgrades:
| Type | Name | Price |
|---|---|---|
| AEGIS | ||
| CCU | 325A to Avenger Titan Renegade | $10 |
| CCU | Reliant Kore to Avenger Titan Renegade | $18 |
| CCU | Reliant Tana to Avenger Warlock | $18 |
| CCU | 325A to Avenger Warlock | $25 |
| CCU | 315P to Avenger Warlock | $30 |
| CCU | Vanguard Harbinger to Eclipse | $18 |
| CCU | M50 to Gladius Valiant | $18 |
| CCU | Odyssey to Hammerhead | $45 |
| CCU | Odyssey to Nautilus | $45 |
| CCU | Valkyrie to Reclaimer | $35 |
| CCU | Gladiator to Sabre | $11 |
| CCU | Sabre to Sabre Comet | $25 |
| CCU | Terrapin to Vanguard Hoplite | $32 |
| CCU | Apollo Triage to Vanguard Warden | $18 |
| CCU | Vanguard Hoplite to Vanguard Warden | $32 |
| CCU | Sabre Comet to Vulcan | $25 |
| CCU | Super Hornet to Vulcan | $25 |
| ANVIL | ||
| CCU | Freelancer DUR to Ballista | $11 |
| CCU | Liberator to Carrack | $44 |
| CCU | Starfarer Gemini to Crucible | $18 |
| CCU | Prospector to Gladiator | $17 |
| CCU | Reliant Mako to Hawk | $11 |
| CCU | Gladius to Hawk | $17 |
| CCU | Sabre Comet to Hornet Heartseeker | $19 |
| CCU | Super Hornet to Hornet Heartseeker | $25 |
| CCU | Prospector to Hornet Wildfire | $32 |
| CCU | Vulcan to Hurricane | $18 |
| CCU | Taurus to Hurricane | $18 |
| CCU | F7C Hornet to Legionnaire | $18 |
| CCU | Mustang Beta to Pisces C8X | $10 |
| CCU | Dragonfly Black to Pisces C8X | $10 |
| CCU | Arrow to Spartan | $11 |
| CCU | Hornet Wildfire to Super Hornet | $17 |
| CCU | Sabre to Super Hornet | $24 |
| CCU | Khartu-Al to Super Hornet | $24 |
| CCU | Gladiator to Super Hornet | $31 |
| CCU | Prospector to Super Hornet | $45 |
| CCU | Vulcan to Terrapin | $33 |
| CCU | Crucible to Valkyrie | $44 |
| CCU | Endeavor to Valkyrie | $44 |
| AOPOA / XI'AN | ||
| CCU | Gladiator to Khartu-Al | $11 |
| CCU | Prospector to Khartu-Al | $25 |
| CCU | Dragonfly Black to Nox | $11 |
| CCU | X1 Base to Nox Kue | $12 |
| CCU | Vulcan to San'tok.Yai | $33 |
| ARGO | ||
| CCU | Mustang Alpha to MPUV Cargo | $11 |
| CCU | Razor to SRV | $11 |
| CCU | Tracker to SRV | $18 |
| BANU | ||
| CONSOLIDATED OUTLAND | ||
| CCU | Avenger Stalker to Mustang Delta | $10 |
| CCU | 300i to Mustang Delta | $17 |
| CRUSADER | ||
| CCU | Andromeda to Ares Inferno | $18 |
| CCU | Andromeda to Ares Ion | $18 |
| CCU | Valkyrie to Genisis Starliner | $44 |
| CCU | Nautilus to Hercules A2 | $45 |
| CCU | Hammerhead to Hercules A2 | $45 |
| CCU | Valkyrie to Hercules C2 | $44 |
| CCU | 400i to Mercury Star Runner | $18 |
| CCU | Andromeda to Mercury Star Runner | $33 |
| DRAKE | ||
| CCU | Hawk to Buccaneer | $17 |
| CCU | M50 to Buccaneer | $17 |
| CCU | Mole to Caterpillar | $25 |
| CCU | Sabre to Cutlass Blue | $11 |
| CCU | Prospector to Cutlass Blue | $32 |
| CCU | Reliant Tana to Herald | $17 |
| CCU | 325A to Herald | $24 |
| CCU | Dragonfly Black to Mule | $11 |
| CCU | Andromeda to Corsair | $18 |
| KRUGER | ||
| MISC | ||
| CCU | Starfarer Gemini to Endeavor | $18 |
| CCU | Hornet Tracker to Expanse | $17 |
| CCU | Sabre to Freelancer MIS | $10 |
| CCU | Gladiator to Freelancer MIS | $17 |
| CCU | Prospector to Freelancer MIS | $33 |
| CCU | Spartan to Hull A | $17 |
| CCU | Arrow to Hull A | $23 |
| CCU | Cutlass Red to Hull B | $12 |
| CCU | Perseus to Odyssey | $44 |
| CCU | Tracker to Razor | $11 |
| CCU | Freelancer DUR to Razor | $17 |
| CCU | Hornet Ghost to Razor | $32 |
| CCU | Razor to Razor LX | $11 |
| CCU | Tracker to Razor LX | $17 |
| CCU | Freelancer MAX to Razor EX | $11 |
| CCU | Razor LX to Razor EX | $11 |
| CCU | Retaliator Base to Razor EX | $11 |
| CCU | 325A to Reliant Tana | $10 |
| CCU | Arrow to Reliant Sen | $17 |
| CCU | Reliant Tana to Reliant Sen | $17 |
| CCU | 325A to Reliant Sen | $24 |
| CCU | Gladius to Reliant Mako | $10 |
| CCU | 325A to Reliant Mako | $36 |
| CCU | Mole to Starfarer Gemini | $41 |
| CCU | Starfarer to Starfarer Gemini | $58 |
| ORIGIN | ||
| CCU | Dragonfly Black to 100i | $17 |
| CCU | Ursa Rover to 125A | $17 |
| CCU | Avenger Titan to 125A | $12 |
| CCU | 100i to 125A | $17 |
| CCU | 125A to 135C | $11 |
| CCU | 300i to 135C | $17 |
| CCU | Mustang Gamma to 135C | $17 |
| CCU | Andromeda to 400i | $18 |
| CCU | Aurora CL to 85X | $11 |
| CCU | Mustang Gamma to G12 | $11 |
| CCU | Mustang Gamma to G12R Racing | $11 |
| CCU | Avenger Stalker to G12A Military | $11 |
| CCU | G12 to G12A Military | $11 |
| CCU | G12R Racing to G12A Military | $11 |
| CCU | Reliant Mako to M50 Interceptor | $11 |
| CCU | Gladius to M50 Interceptor | $17 |
| CCU | Dragonfly Black to X1 Velocity | $17 |
| CCU | X1 Baseline to X1 Velocity | $11 |
| CCU | X1 Velocity to X1 Force | $11 |
| CCU | X1 Baseline to X1 Force | $17 |
| RSI | ||
| CCU | Apollo Triage to Apollo Medivac | $38 |
| CCU | Vanguard Warden to Apollo Medivac | $27 |
| CCU | Vanguard Hoplite to Apollo Triage | $18 |
| CCU | Aurora MR to Aurora LX | $11 |
| CCU | Razor to Mantis | $10 |
| CCU | Hornet Tracker to Mantis | $18 |
| CCU | Hammerhead to Polaris | $45 |
| CCU | 85X to Ursa Rover Fortuna | $12 |
| TUMBRIL | ||
| CCU | Cyclone to Cyclone RC | $18 |
| CCU | Cyclone to Cyclone TR | $18 |
| CCU | Cyclone to Cyclone RN | $18 |
| CCU | Cyclone to Cyclone AA | $37 |
| CCU | Cyclone RC to Cyclone AA | $25 |
| CCU | Cyclone TR to Cyclone AA | $25 |
| CCU | Cyclone RN to Cyclone AA | $25 |
| CCU | Ursa Rover to Cyclone | $11 |
| CCU | Ursa Rover to Cyclone RC | $25 |
| CCU | Ursa Rover to Cyclone TR | $25 |
| CCU | Ursa Rover to Cyclone RN | $25 |
| CCU | Ursa Rover to Cyclone AA | $45 |
| CCU | 300i to Cyclone RC | $11 |
| CCU | 300i to Cyclone TR | $11 |
| CCU | 300i to Cyclone RN | $11 |
| CCU | 325a to Cyclone MT | $18 |
| CCU | Arrow to Cyclone AA | $11 |
| CCU | F7C Hornet to Nova Tank | $17 |
| CCU | Mustang Alpha to Ranger CV | $11 |
| CCU | Mustang Alpha to Ranger RC | $11 |
| CCU | Ranger CV to Ranger TR | $11 |
| CCU | Ranger RC to Ranger TR | $11 |
Paints:
| Ship | Name | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Aegis Avenger | Blue and gold ILW 2950 | $15 |
| Aegis Avenger | Solar Winds Paint | $15 |
| Aegis Gladius | Solar Winds Paint | $18 |
| Aegis Gladius | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $18 |
| Aegis Vanguard | Solar Winds Paint | $22 |
| Aegis Vanguard | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $22 |
| Aegis Retaliator | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $22 |
| Anvil Arrow | Twilight ILW 2950 | $15 |
| Anvil Centurion | Beachhead | $18 |
| Anvil Hawk | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $18 |
| Anvil Legionnaire | Shadow Strike Paint | $18 |
| Anvil Hornet | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $18 |
| Anvil Valkyrie | Splinter ILW 2950 | $24 |
| Anvil Liberator | Condor | $35 |
| Crusader Mercury | Fortuna | $23 |
| Cursader Spirit | Crimson | $20 |
| Cursader Spirit | Intrepid | $20 |
| Cursader Spirit | Olympia | $20 |
| Cursader Hercules | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $29 |
| Drake Dragonfly | Ghoulish Green | $15 |
| Drake Cutlass | Ghoulish Green | $15 |
| Drake Cutlass | Scull and Crossbones | $19 |
| Drake Buccaneer | Ghoulish Green | $18 |
| Drake Caterpillar | Ghoulish Green | $22 |
| Drake Herald | Ghoulish Green | $18 |
| Drake Mule | Ghoulish Green | $14 |
| Drake Mule | Smokestack | $9 |
| Drake Vulture | Ghoulish Green | $20 |
| Gatac Railen | Hyaotan | $23 |
| Greycat STV | Blue Steel | $9 |
| Mirai Fury | Leatherback | $15 |
| Misc Reliant | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $15 |
| Misc Freelancer | Paint pack ILW 2950 | $23 |
| Misc Starfarer | Paint pack ILW 2950 | $43 |
| Misc Expanse | Stardust | $20 |
| Origin 100i | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $23 |
| Origin 400i | Fortuna | $23 |
| Origin 400i | Penumbra | $29 |
| Origin 400i | Meridian | $29 |
| Origin 600i | Fortuna | $29 |
| RSI Lynx | Moonrise | $15 |
| RSI Aurora | Blue and gold ILW2950 | $15 |
| RSI Constellation | Blue and gold ILW2950 | $22 |
| RSI Scorpius | Stinger | $35 |
| RSI Scorpius | Tiburon | $27 |
| RSI Galaxy | Protector | $25 |
| Tumbril Cyclone | Blue and gold ILW 2953 | $15 |
| Tumbril Storm | Summit | $18 |
BUKs, modules and more:
| Type | Name | Insurance | Melt value | Price |
|---|
• CCU = Cross-Chassis Upgrade. • Melt value = what you get if you decide to exchange your ship for store credits. • Upgrade value = this is the value you upgrade from if you decide to do that. • LTI = Lifetime insurance. • MI = Month insurance. • OC = Original Concept. • Prices include PayPal fees. PayPal invoice will be sent. • Buyer must be PayPal verified, I am since 2008. • I do not have a Discord account and I do not middleman! • HOW TO BUY: PM me what you would like to buy together with your PayPal email. I will then send you an invoice. Once the invoice has been paid the bought item will be gifted to your PayPal email. You will then receive a mail from RSI which contains a gift link. The link transfers the gift to your Hangar (RSI website, if you are logged in, or it will ask you to do so). • If you are interested - send me a PM. My down time is usually between 11 pm - 7 am UTC (CET)Have a good day!
2024.05.14 20:05 KodiesCove Explain picking specs to me like i'm 5
TL;DR I just bought a laptop someone who claimed to be good with computers said would meet my needs, and I'm highly disappointed. Can't return it. Want to learn how to choose specs so I don't waste another $600+ again.
Basically I just bought a $600 laptop I was told would do everything I need it to do. Thought it was fine because it has like 40GBRAM and 2TB SSD. Not sure about the graphics card, but nothing I play is graphics intensive.
Well.
This thing overheats like crazy. Simply having a web browser open to do research for my writing causes it to over heat intensely, even on a flat hard surface.
The only game I've played on it so far is Runescape 3, which I figured wouldn't be any type of an issue because I've ran that game on the worst of the worst computers without any type of issues at all. I was wrong. It frequently crashes even though I have the graphics settings on low, and am on the least populated server I can be on(how I prefer to play). It very frequently maxes out my CPU and just crashes. THANKFULLY, it only crashes the program, not my actual computer.
None of the games I would play on this laptop would be more intensive than Runescape 3, but the fact that it can't handle the one intensive game I WOULD play and play frequently makes me want to get a new laptop all together.
And of course I'm passed the return date.
All and all, for $600, I feel like I actually bought a $300 or less refurbished laptop instead of a $600 brand new one.
And before any one suggests I get a desktop, I already have a desktop. I need a laptop to be able to do my writing while not at home, and to also have another computer to be able to play games with my partner who has cerebral palsy and fine motor skill issues, and therefore cannot play console games that require a controller. My soon to be assisted living apart doesn't even have the space for me to set up my PC like a PC (so it will essentially be like how it is now, a console because I also don't have the space for it to be set up like a PC) and will be hooked up to my TV to be used for gaming.
If I would have known this particular laptop couldn't handle web browseing without overheating so bad it felt like it was going to literally burn me, or that it couldn't run RS3 with out capping my CPU, I would have just asked them to find a different one or posted here sooner about how to pick a computer. Expensive lesson to learn I guess....
submitted by KodiesCove to buildmeapc [link] [comments]
Basically I just bought a $600 laptop I was told would do everything I need it to do. Thought it was fine because it has like 40GBRAM and 2TB SSD. Not sure about the graphics card, but nothing I play is graphics intensive.
Well.
This thing overheats like crazy. Simply having a web browser open to do research for my writing causes it to over heat intensely, even on a flat hard surface.
The only game I've played on it so far is Runescape 3, which I figured wouldn't be any type of an issue because I've ran that game on the worst of the worst computers without any type of issues at all. I was wrong. It frequently crashes even though I have the graphics settings on low, and am on the least populated server I can be on(how I prefer to play). It very frequently maxes out my CPU and just crashes. THANKFULLY, it only crashes the program, not my actual computer.
None of the games I would play on this laptop would be more intensive than Runescape 3, but the fact that it can't handle the one intensive game I WOULD play and play frequently makes me want to get a new laptop all together.
And of course I'm passed the return date.
All and all, for $600, I feel like I actually bought a $300 or less refurbished laptop instead of a $600 brand new one.
And before any one suggests I get a desktop, I already have a desktop. I need a laptop to be able to do my writing while not at home, and to also have another computer to be able to play games with my partner who has cerebral palsy and fine motor skill issues, and therefore cannot play console games that require a controller. My soon to be assisted living apart doesn't even have the space for me to set up my PC like a PC (so it will essentially be like how it is now, a console because I also don't have the space for it to be set up like a PC) and will be hooked up to my TV to be used for gaming.
If I would have known this particular laptop couldn't handle web browseing without overheating so bad it felt like it was going to literally burn me, or that it couldn't run RS3 with out capping my CPU, I would have just asked them to find a different one or posted here sooner about how to pick a computer. Expensive lesson to learn I guess....
2024.05.14 19:10 camhabib Difficulty diagnosing steering issue
I have a 2021 Subaru Outback that was in a front end accident some months ago. Immediately after the accident, prior to dropping it off, car drove fine. Within 2 days of picking up the car however, I noticed the steering wheel was difficult to turn right, but easy / normal to turn left. Additionally, if you were traveling <5 mph and turned the steering wheel right, it would snap back to center when let go, while if turned left and let go, it would remain left.
I verified with the body shop that the frame was checked and a steering alignment was done. I then followed up with the dealership who said that the issue was the tires. Replaced those and issue was unchanged. Returned to the dealership and they replaced the steering rack assembly (motor included) and performed an alignment. Picked it up with the issue again unchanged. I returned and after investigating, they found the "new steering rack was off by 15 degrees," but couldn't offer any explanation of exactly what that meant. Regardless, they said they calibrated it, performed another alignment (caster and all other measurements were within spec), and said that the issue was fixed but that some difference in turning right and left was "to be expected."
Picked up the car and the steering is unchanged at best, possibly even a little worse. They said they disconnected a number of steering / suspension components and didn't notice any binding or damage. Curious what else it could be before I drop it off again and let them have it for another week? I'm running out of ideas myself, and it sounds like they've touched on most of the components involved in steering.
submitted by camhabib to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
I verified with the body shop that the frame was checked and a steering alignment was done. I then followed up with the dealership who said that the issue was the tires. Replaced those and issue was unchanged. Returned to the dealership and they replaced the steering rack assembly (motor included) and performed an alignment. Picked it up with the issue again unchanged. I returned and after investigating, they found the "new steering rack was off by 15 degrees," but couldn't offer any explanation of exactly what that meant. Regardless, they said they calibrated it, performed another alignment (caster and all other measurements were within spec), and said that the issue was fixed but that some difference in turning right and left was "to be expected."
Picked up the car and the steering is unchanged at best, possibly even a little worse. They said they disconnected a number of steering / suspension components and didn't notice any binding or damage. Curious what else it could be before I drop it off again and let them have it for another week? I'm running out of ideas myself, and it sounds like they've touched on most of the components involved in steering.
2024.05.14 19:08 QuantumOfOptics How good is Agiltron?
Hi all,
I have been looking for a few optics and optomechanics parts and came across Agiltron. I'm not very familiar with them are they any good? Specifically, I'm looking at their motorized translation stage (if theyre good then I might consider shopping around at them a bit more for optics). From the specs it looks like a good buy, but I would much rather spend the extra money to get a good product with support from Thorlabs for example. There does seem to be some specs missing like straightness and angular deflection, which I'd have to call about.
Thanks for any reviews/help in advance!
Best, QoO
submitted by QuantumOfOptics to Optics [link] [comments]
I have been looking for a few optics and optomechanics parts and came across Agiltron. I'm not very familiar with them are they any good? Specifically, I'm looking at their motorized translation stage (if theyre good then I might consider shopping around at them a bit more for optics). From the specs it looks like a good buy, but I would much rather spend the extra money to get a good product with support from Thorlabs for example. There does seem to be some specs missing like straightness and angular deflection, which I'd have to call about.
Thanks for any reviews/help in advance!
Best, QoO
2024.05.14 18:50 WestbourneX862AA What was your first boat and how long you had it for?
Also, any outboard motor swaps or customizations added to your first one, or you kept it standard spec?
submitted by WestbourneX862AA to boating [link] [comments]
2024.05.14 18:14 bowhunter3303 Electric motor help
What kind of brushless DC motor would I need to lift 400lbs 30 feet in 20 seconds What would the specs need to be?
submitted by bowhunter3303 to inventors [link] [comments]
2024.05.14 17:29 Vos-yo E92 - 328i Prices
Hi everyone!! Future beemer guy here!
Im looking for my first BMW Im in love with the e92 328 3litter engine (us version) The thing that i dont understand are the prices!! Same motor and specs but with 4doors (e90) are super cheap compared to the coupe! Is there a reason for that? 11-13k for a nice e92 is a good price or is expensive?
Besides the water pump and gaskets, any advice when looking for one?
Thanks!!!
submitted by Vos-yo to BMW [link] [comments]
Im looking for my first BMW Im in love with the e92 328 3litter engine (us version) The thing that i dont understand are the prices!! Same motor and specs but with 4doors (e90) are super cheap compared to the coupe! Is there a reason for that? 11-13k for a nice e92 is a good price or is expensive?
Besides the water pump and gaskets, any advice when looking for one?
Thanks!!!
2024.05.14 15:41 MightBeneficial3302 NurExone Presenting on Revolutionary Spinal Cord Injury Therapy at European Conference on Exosomes and Regenerative Medicine (TSXV: NRX, OTCQB: NRXBF, FSE: J90, NRX.V)
 | submitted by MightBeneficial3302 to Wealthsimple_Penny [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/3j2x6d6bbe0d1.png?width=300&format=png&auto=webp&s=ab9b8537a609e57f81e15ea7bea8c4817172aa9b NurExone Biologic Inc. (TSXV: NRX) (Germany: J90) (the “Company” or “NurExone”), a pioneering biopharmaceutical company, is pleased to announce that Dr. Lior Shaltiel, CEO and Director at NurExone, was invited to present on "Revolutionizing Spinal Cord Injury Treatment: Harnessing the Potential of Exosomes for Advanced Therapy in Comprehensive Approach" at the Exosomes of Europe conference in London in June, 2024. Dr. Shaltiel joins a prestigious lineup of speakers presenting applications of exosomes, including representatives from leading exosome companies such as Abbvie, Evox Therapeutics and Capricor Therapeutics, as well as senior-level executives in the field. As a pioneer and leader in this field, Dr. Shaltiel is well-positioned to provide perspective on exploiting advances in exosomes for drug delivery. NurExone is developing a first exosome-loaded nanodrug, ExoPTEN, for patients who suffer acute Spinal Cord Injuries. Exosomes Europe is a premier event that brings together experts from academia and industry to discuss new data and case studies on advancing exosome products from the clinical stage to commercialization. The conference will take place on June 5-6, 2024, in London, England. To learn more about the summit and to register, please visit the Conference Website. About NurExone Biologic Inc. NurExone Biologic Inc. is a TSXV listed pharmaceutical Company that is developing a platform for biologically-guided exosome-based therapies to be delivered, non-invasively, to patients who have suffered Central Nervous System injuries. The Company’s first product, ExoPTEN for acute spinal cord injury, was proven to recover motor function in 75% of laboratory rats when administered intranasally. ExoPTEN has been granted Orphan Drug Designation by the FDA. The NurExone platform technology is expected to offer novel solutions to drug companies interested in noninvasive targeted drug delivery for other indications. For additional information, please visit www.nurexone.com or follow NurExone on LinkedIn, Twitter, Facebook, or YouTube. For more information, please contact: Dr. Lior Shaltiel Chief Executive Officer and Director Phone: +972-52-4803034 Email: info@nurexone.com Thesis Capital Inc. Investment Relation - Canada Phone: +1 905-347-5569 Email: IR@nurexone.com Dr. Eva Reuter Investment Relation - Germany Phone: +49-69-1532-5857 Email: e.reuter@dr-reuter.eu |
2024.05.14 15:40 MightBeneficial3302 NurExone Presenting on Revolutionary Spinal Cord Injury Therapy at European Conference on Exosomes and Regenerative Medicine (TSXV: NRX, OTCQB: NRXBF, FSE: J90, NRX.V)
| | submitted by MightBeneficial3302 to CanadianStockExchange [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/kw4lbgl8be0d1.png?width=300&format=png&auto=webp&s=682c2587fdbda8b4608804c0d3b1e877a4624b4f NurExone Biologic Inc. (TSXV: NRX) (Germany: J90) (the “Company” or “NurExone”), a pioneering biopharmaceutical company, is pleased to announce that Dr. Lior Shaltiel, CEO and Director at NurExone, was invited to present on "Revolutionizing Spinal Cord Injury Treatment: Harnessing the Potential of Exosomes for Advanced Therapy in Comprehensive Approach" at the Exosomes of Europe conference in London in June, 2024. Dr. Shaltiel joins a prestigious lineup of speakers presenting applications of exosomes, including representatives from leading exosome companies such as Abbvie, Evox Therapeutics and Capricor Therapeutics, as well as senior-level executives in the field. As a pioneer and leader in this field, Dr. Shaltiel is well-positioned to provide perspective on exploiting advances in exosomes for drug delivery. NurExone is developing a first exosome-loaded nanodrug, ExoPTEN, for patients who suffer acute Spinal Cord Injuries. Exosomes Europe is a premier event that brings together experts from academia and industry to discuss new data and case studies on advancing exosome products from the clinical stage to commercialization. The conference will take place on June 5-6, 2024, in London, England. To learn more about the summit and to register, please visit the Conference Website. About NurExone Biologic Inc. NurExone Biologic Inc. is a TSXV listed pharmaceutical Company that is developing a platform for biologically-guided exosome-based therapies to be delivered, non-invasively, to patients who have suffered Central Nervous System injuries. The Company’s first product, ExoPTEN for acute spinal cord injury, was proven to recover motor function in 75% of laboratory rats when administered intranasally. ExoPTEN has been granted Orphan Drug Designation by the FDA. The NurExone platform technology is expected to offer novel solutions to drug companies interested in noninvasive targeted drug delivery for other indications. For additional information, please visit www.nurexone.com or follow NurExone on LinkedIn, Twitter, Facebook, or YouTube. For more information, please contact: Dr. Lior Shaltiel Chief Executive Officer and Director Phone: +972-52-4803034 Email: info@nurexone.com Thesis Capital Inc. Investment Relation - Canada Phone: +1 905-347-5569 Email: IR@nurexone.com Dr. Eva Reuter Investment Relation - Germany Phone: +49-69-1532-5857 Email: e.reuter@dr-reuter.eu |